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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | "Steve Reddock" [steve_r | 65 | Expansion tank |
2 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 33 | Re: Expansion tank |
3 | Nathan Dunsmore [dunsmo1 | 21 | Re: Guide for a Frame Over |
4 | crash@merl.com | 16 | Multimeters |
5 | crash@merl.com | 16 | LR Pick and Shovel |
6 | crash@merl.com | 16 | LR Pick and Shovel |
7 | "Steve Reddock" [steve_r | 19 | Re: Expansion tank |
8 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 11 | test again...don't read. I know you're going to though. |
9 | "Christopher Thomas" [ch | 27 | CB40 Prototype |
10 | Allan Smith [smitha@mail | 15 | Re: Multimeters and sightings |
11 | 73363.427@CompuServe.COM | 39 | LR pick and shovel questions |
12 | Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti | 17 | LRNA screen savers |
13 | David_R._Bobeck_at_USHMM | 12 | Phone number needed...help please. |
14 | Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti | 89 | Frame Replacement Log, 15 |
15 | slade@sisna.com | 30 | FOR SALE: Defender Bulkhead |
16 | "Jeffrey A. Berg" [jeff@ | 30 | Re: antique insurance |
17 | M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (M | 9 | Re: test again...don't read. I know you're going to though. |
18 | gpool@pacific.net (Granv | 58 | Spring-over conversion |
19 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 37 | Camel Trophy Results |
20 | ASFCO@aol.com | 11 | Re: LRNA screen savers |
21 | rthomas@postoffice.ptd.n | 22 | Re: Phone, Eastwood,help please. |
22 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 33 | [not specified] |
23 | ASFCO@aol.com | 11 | Re: Phone number needed...help please. |
24 | Daniel Grambihler [danie | 36 | Re: D90 door tops, soft top, etc... |
25 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 36 | Cute editorial from the May Land Rover Owner magazine... |
26 | "Ron Franklin" [oldhaven | 25 | Re: Frame Replacement Log, 15 |
27 | Russell U Wilson [ruwst+ | 27 | Re: antique insurance |
28 | Michael Roberts [psu0071 | 35 | Re: Thank-you |
29 | michelbe@login.net (Mich | 30 | Ford 302 engine conversion question |
30 | aj536@lafn.org (Mike McC | 19 | D110 for sale |
31 | rovah@agate.net (John Ca | 15 | Seat Box Side Replacements |
32 | Andrew Howton [ahowton@a | 23 | ford engine in a Land Rover |
33 | AKBLACKLEY@aol.com | 14 | Security by .308 |
34 | "Douglas C. Marbourg" [m | 16 | D90 For Sale |
35 | AKBLACKLEY@aol.com | 15 | MOD Tool Time |
36 | Simon Barclay [sbar@jna. | 14 | RE: D110 for sale |
37 | cyoungso@direct.ca (Chri | 10 | Removal of bolts? |
38 | Jeff & Laura Kessler [lm | 24 | Re: Security by .308 |
39 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 18 | LR screen savers |
40 | michelbe@login.net (Mich | 42 | Re: Removal of bolts? |
41 | twakeman@scruznet.com (T | 31 | Re: lift door for tailgate |
42 | kelvinc@terrestrial.com | 15 | Re: D90 Recall |
43 | "Mr Ian Stuart" [Ian.Stu | 47 | Re: Removal of bolts? |
44 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 16 | Re: Who's going to the ARC Nationals? |
45 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 30 | Heat-related problem - vapor lock? |
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 07:29:15 EDT From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com> Subject: Expansion tank Nice to see the digest back after a looong absence (>1 week). Enough of that. Expansion tanks on radiators: My views on this are different from many people's, including a majority of car manufacturers. THEY ARE ALL WRONG!!! You should fit a pressure cap on the expansion tank - 15 psi springs to mind. You should fit a blank cap (ie no pressure release springy bit) to the rad. You should also ensure that the feed pipe betwixt rad and tank goes to near the bottom of the expansion tank. The normal solution, which I have seen on many production cars (and motorbikes) is to fit a pressure cap to both. This is next to useless. When the water expands in the cooling system, or even starts to boil and tried to overflow it lifts the spring in the cap and pushes the water past into the overflow bottle, or more often just through an overflow pipe onto the ground. The the engine cools. The water is now at below atmospheric pressure and "sucking" like mad on the pressure cap on top of the rad, which has by this stage clamped securely onto the top of the rad and will not let anything past. So your hot engine has pumped a bit of water into the overflow and there is no way it will come back. You check the water level and find that the overflow bottle is full & leave it alone. Meanwhile your rad is half empty :-( With a blank cap on the rad water can travel both ways between the bottle & rad, only overflowing if the pressure in the whole system is A good solution for LRs is to fit a IIa rad which has an extra large tank on top of the rad. The III is half the size, and does not allow as much expansion. At the risk of getting thrown off the list for mentioning inferior cars, Rover Metros have a very good system (which may be on many others for all I know), which has an expansion tank which is actually part of the flow path of the cooling system. A small percentage of the water flows through the expansion tank all the time, so all the water is at pretty much the same temperature and if someone tops up with neat anti-freeze or water it does get mixed with the rest after a few miles. I have seen on countless vehicles with full overflow bottles and empty rads caused by pressure caps on rads. As far as level goes, the water should be above the feed pipe and below the top! I would aim about half way between and keep an eye on things for a while, especially after a long stint of hard work, or idling on a hot day. May your rad not runneth over. Steve Reddock, Xyratex | Just as he thought he had Ext.(01705) 486363 x5209 | clinched the interview he was IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P) | visited by the ghost of Usenet Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past. ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 23 Apr 96 8:35:56 EDT Subject: Re: Expansion tank Re: Pressure caps on expansion tanks and/or radiators: Gotta argue with you on this one, Steve. Most of the systems I've run across (like the refit on my 109, my wife's Mazda and others) has a pressure cap on the radiator, and a simple overflow setup on the bottle. The one bit where I think you're a bit misled is on the radiator pressure cap. You're right - expansion does push the cap open and allow the coolant to run to the bottle. HOWEVER, all of these caps also have a vacuum opening in the other direction that opens @ ~1PSI diff. pressure or so, to allow the coolant to be drawn back. The Stant 10-pounder I have on my 109 has one, and it keeps itself nice and topped up with little effort. My old Volvo has the setup you describe with the release cap on the pressure bottle. This, too, works well. The main reason that people have full catch bottles and empty radiators is that, when renewing hoses, they never think to replace the stub to the bottle. This then perishes with age, oil, ozone and so forth, cracking. It will pass fluid to the bottle nicely, but allows air in on the pull-back. With the hose sucking air, your coolant never comes back up (ever try to drink with a cracked straw?). My tuppence worth, ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 08:34:43 -0400 From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net> Subject: Re: Guide for a Frame Over Mike Loiodice wrote: > (The only "Rover" bolts I bought were > the two that bolt the bulkhead to the chassis outriggers - but then I didn't > need to replace my frame either.) > Mike Loiodice Even these bolts are replaceable. Local tractor supply shops will carry these large, long bolts in various degrees of hardness (up to grade 8) I opted for grade 5 in case I ever have to try to cut them again. The only bolts/screws I couldn't find local replacement for were the screws that hold the wings to the bulkhead. Nate Dunsmore Rocking Horse Farm Boring, MD 21020 dunsmo19@us.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: crash@merl.com Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 08:59:21 -0400 Subject: Multimeters I have the Radio Shack mini-digital, but my favorite meter for diagnosing LR electrics is a Triplett 4044. Nice LOUD continuity beeper, analog bargraph along the bottom, capture-min-value, capture-max-value, and the meter is IP-66 rated for spooge (drip) resistance, impact resistance, and is double-insulated. The triplett (in a rubber holster, with clip-leads and a set of probes) lives in my toolbag in the back of Sally. -Bill Y. ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: crash@merl.com Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 08:51:23 -0400 Subject: LR Pick and Shovel The U.S. Cavalry (MoD surplus) pick and shovel set have a substantial but pressed-steel shovel blade (at least as thick as my Sears Craftsman shovel blade), and the pick head is pick on one side and mattock on the other. The pick handle is also reinforced with a steel wrapper on the upper end where the mattock heat mounts (nice!). They're ugly, but they seem substantial enough. -Bill Y. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: crash@merl.com Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 08:53:20 -0400 Subject: LR Pick and Shovel The U.S. Cavalry (MoD surplus) pick and shovel set have a substantial but pressed-steel shovel blade (at least as thick as my Sears Craftsman shovel blade), and the pick head is pick on one side and mattock on the other. The pick handle is also reinforced with a steel wrapper on the upper end where the mattock heat mounts (nice!). They're ugly, but they seem substantial enough. -Bill Y. ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 08:48:42 EDT From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com> Subject: Re: Expansion tank *** Resending note of 23/04/96 13:39 AJR Said: |HOWEVER, all of these caps also have a vacuum opening in the other |direction that opens @ ?1PSI diff. pressure or so, to allow the coolant |to be drawn back. The Stant 10-pounder I have on my 109 has one, and it |keeps itself nice and topped up with little effort. Bum. I didn't know that. I shall have to investigate when I next have a working engine. Perhaps the car manufacturers of the world are not mad after all. Oops, Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 10:20:41 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: test again...don't read. I know you're going to though. test- I told you not to read it... ___ |__\___ |__|__| (o) (o) ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Christopher Thomas" <chris@compman.co.uk> Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 14:28:45 +0000 Subject: CB40 Prototype Message from my brother who decides to telephone me at work, to tell you this -devasting- news. It's a bit garbled, but that's his problem: CB40 prototype spotted on the Hagley Road in Edgbaston. Heading towards town. Prototype was under a Maestro van body but three or four inches of lift were apparent over the normal Maestro van height. Skirts covered chopped bodywork necessary to fit van body onto ladder chassis Regno J110 XFS. >From Steve Thomas thomse-u@m4-arts.bham.ac.uk (from his Big Brother's account) -- Christopher Thomas (Online Sales) Computer Manuals Ltd. E-mail:chris@compman.co.uk Voice: +44 (0)121 706 6000 Free catalogue, advice, and PGP public key always available! >>>** Web Bookstore at http://www.compman.co.uk **<<< ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 10:21:57 -0500 From: Allan Smith <smitha@mail.CandW.lc> Subject: Re: Multimeters and sightings Many thanks for all the information on multimeters - very helpful and greatly appreciated. A couple of days ago I saw a (1995?) movie called Born Wild, filmed in South Africa and Zambia, with some great wildlife footage, and LRs as the only vehicles in the whole film. Cheers Allan St. Lucia ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: 73363.427@CompuServe.COM Date: 23 Apr 96 10:27:47 EDT Subject: LR pick and shovel questions >> I am thinking about getting a pick and shovel set from US Cav and was wondering about a couple of things; 1) is the shovel made of pressed steel or is it a more stout, welded up model? 2) does the pick have two pick points or does it have a mattock blade? enquiring archaeologists want to know << 1) It is not welded up, put it appears to be fairly strong. I wouldn't worry about breaking it, your back would wear out before the shovel would. The shovel is 28" long which is short for hard work. 2) It has two pick points and the handle is 26" long, again a little to short ------------------- | | | | _ _ ____|____ _ _ | Rob Dennis O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O 73363.427@Compuserve.com \____===_=====_===____/ Atlanta, GA USA |oo |(_)###(_)| oo| (404) 875-4537 | | ### | | | | ####### | | 1972 SerIII 88 |_____|_#######_|_____| 1990 RangeRover [_______________________] EEEI EEEI Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com On 23-Apr-1996 ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 09:44:34 -0500 Subject: LRNA screen savers The mac version of the screen saver seems a little buggy. If I let it run over night, I'm almost guaranteed to have my machine hung in the morning (I like to leave my machine on all the time). Don't know about the windows version yet - haven't pulled it. anyone else have problems? Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: David_R._Bobeck_at_USHMM@inetgate.ushmm.org Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 11:02:11 EST Subject: Phone number needed...help please. Anybody have the phone number for Eastwood's in the US? I need to order some more paint today but I left the catalog at home. Thanks Dave "I like painting frames" B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 09:57:18 -0500 Subject: Frame Replacement Log, 15 Log 15 The major seems to be kind of flakey, so I hope this goes to everyone. I would have made more progress this week if I wouldn't have spent three days on the master brake cylinder. What should have been a two hour tear down was an exercise in frustration. The bleeping end cap wouldn't come off. Finally, I found the right combination of tools to get it off - a six point socket, a 20" breaker bar, and another 30" of pipe, and a good vise. I must have had to get 200-300 ft. lbs. of torque going to break it free. Sheesh. Once inside the cylinder, everything looked dandy, so I have no idea why it stuck like that - no rust or anything... Once that was done it took me another 30 minutes to get it back together. I also cleaned up the tower, painted it and the peddle, and added a new peddle pad. I'm a little P.O.'d at Rovers North. I bought the resivoir kit in the spring flyer (the nice plastic one), but one of the pipes (res. to brake cyl.) is on back order from the UK. I guess I would have thought they'd make sure of stock before putting things on special. So that might hang me - can't finish the brakes (and thus the whole truck) without that pipe. They have no ETA on when its supposed to come in. I may see if I can have one made up or if someone else has one. Just another little pain. I picked up the bulkhead from the painter, and its RED! Woa. It appears to be the correct color, but its very vibrant - the truck was a nice color when it was new. A friend and I got that mounted with no major problems - getting the zinc out of the main bolt holes was a task. Its so soft that the drill bit will sort of cut a thread in it and then bind. My first bit, after it bound a couple times, exploded into about 20 fragments. I bought a better bit and managed to break through. I put the steering column back in, the bulkhead bracket, and the assorted inside components that go along with. I also moved the main wiring harness. While it didn't seem to difficult, I was tedious about it. My harness has only minor modifications, so all the colors were there and everything. When I moved the dash, I drew diagrams and put tape flags on every wire before disconnecting it, and didn't remove the tape until everything was back in place. I also put new connectors between the front and rear harnesses, and between the rear harness and all the tail lights. Obviously, I haven't been able to test everything yet, so that will be the real proof. And the front lights aren't connected yet since the breakfast and wings are still in the basement. There are a number of differences between my old bulkhead and the new one. The biggest is that my old one had a 'window' cut into it just below the dash, and a box is welded to the inside. Attached to this box is the PTO throttle and the choke. From the motor side, it looks like a 1 inch recess into the bulkhead. I haven't yet decided how to deal with this - I think I could put the choke lever anywhere I wanted, but the PTO throttle might have to be left out. :-( (Not that I use it, but its still kind of cool...) I had to drill a hole for the starter button. I wonder if the new bulkhead had a newer type of key switch. Also, it appears that there was no heater, and maybe no oil pressure guage (or not the same type of guage). There are no holes for the oil line or heater controls, and the footwell plate on the passenger side is signifigantly different from the original. Mounting the kodiak is going to be a trick. The new bulkhead is from a '69. This week its mount the bulkhead plate for the cylinder towers, mount the cylinders and the last hard lines, and, if I get the pipe, bleed the hydraulics. A friend also loaned me a vacuum bleed pump, and I'm interested to see how well that works. I'm also going to try to get the throttle linkage all hooked back up. Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: slade@sisna.com Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 08:03:39 -0700 Subject: FOR SALE: Defender Bulkhead Hello, I have recently aquired a Defender bulkhead as a partial settlement against a company in the US that provides custom built Land Rovers. The company never delivered my vehicle, and I am attempting to recover my losses through parts. This company is no longer in business, so no one has to worry about being taken by them in the future. To cut to the chase... FOR SALE: Defender bulkhead, new, primer black. Located in Maine, USA. Price: Negotiable. Trades encouraged. In particular, I am looking for a 6 cyl bulkhead for a 109, heated glass, or any other tidbits of value. email or call: 503 760 4798 Thanks, and sorry for the cross post to those who are on both lists. Michael Slade IIa 109 SW 1970 slade@sisna.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 11:42:47 -0400 From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com> Subject: Re: antique insurance I got an agreed value policy on my Rover with nothing more than a copy of the restoration agreement. No appraisal, and I don't even recall sending a photograph. Of course, I pay a premium associated with the vehicle's value. Antique insurance was tempting except for the fact that the Rover is my only vehicle (though at the time all of my driving was "hobby related as I took a train to work) and the mileage limitation. I'm happy with the agreed value policy, though fortunately I haven't had to put it to the test yet. RoverOn! JAB == Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT jeff@purpleshark.com ================== My garden is full of papayas and mangos. My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos. Taste for the good life, I can see it no other way. --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version) ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 15:25:10 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: test again...don't read. I know you're going to though. Hey Dave, I didnt read it...what did it say? Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 08:58:25 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.net (Granville Pool) Subject: Spring-over conversion Art, There have been a few spring-over conversions done to Land-Rovers but the only ones I've seen are on 109s. It should work on an 88 too but your driveline angles are going to be pretty extreme. If there are some Jeeps and other SWB 4x4s in your area, you might want to talk to those owners about what modifications they had to make. In general, it may be necessary to rotate your axle housing somewhat to make the pinion end of each diff angle up slightly. It may also be necessary to have a double-cardan (constant velocity) joint, rather than a simple single cardan (universal) joint, in each propeller shaft. Also, I urge you to consider the effect that a spring-over conversion will have on your center of gravity and therefore your sidehill ability. An excellent sidehill ability is one of the hallmarks of the Land-Rover and not to be sacrificed lightly. This capability can be important in rock crawling. And is certainly to be considered in a vehicle--especially a short-wheelbase one--that is to be used as a daily driver on the road. Not much use to drive something that looks cool if it will end up upside-down in a ditch with you pinned under it. That won't look so cool, eh? An alternative to doing a spring-over is to use good fresh stock springs (I recommend against heavier-duty ones unless the vehicle weight is going to be increase greatly and therefore require it--this because you lose axle articulation with stiffer springs, something of paramount importance in rock crawling) with Land-Rover One-Ton shackles. These give you something like a 1-1/2" lift. Then you can go to rather tall tires, such as 33x9.50R15 BFG Mud-Terrains on the stock 15" Land-Rover wheels (6"x15"), 265/80R16 Interco Super Swamper TSLs (awesome for rock-crawling as I can attest) on steel Discovery wheels (7"x16"). Either of these should give no clearance problems without bodywork modifications (although the SSers might require flares to be legal in some states). If you want to go to bigger tires, such as, say, SS TSLs in something like 36x12.50R15 or 36x12.50R16, of course special wheels would be needed and fenderwell modifications would likely be necessary. The final suggestion that I'd like to make is that you consider a coiler conversion. If you are doing a frame-over anyway, especially if you are planning to buy a new frame, and obviously aren't too concerned about being perfectly "stock" then you could spend a little more and get a coil-sprung chassis. There are longer coils and shocks available to go as high as you want, more or less. Not only will you get the height you want but will gain vastly in axle articulation, which is the biggest factor in successful rock crawling. Hope this helps some, Granville Pool Redwood Valley, CA PS Where do you live? Where do you go rock crawling? Let's go! If you are anywhere near North California, you can come to the Mendocino Forest notaRallye this weekend... ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 12:34:12 -0400 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Camel Trophy Results In what was widely regarded as the toughest event ever, the 17th Camel Trophy ended Monday night (April 22) in Pontinak in the state of Kalimantan, Indonesia. As few as three days ago, the convoy of 38 vehicles was still *1,000 km* from the finish. Only by selecting an alternate route and drastically shortening the final set of special tasks was the event able to conclude - one day late. Participants arrived at the finish late Sunday evening and began the last of four special tasks at dawn on Monday. Two involved driving/navigating amongst the coastal coconut palms; another was a race in traditional Dyak log canoes to an off shore island. The other task was to retrieve a gearbox dropped into the sea. (I wonder what the resale price on *that* one will be?) And the winners are: Greece. In a very surprising move, the US team of Ken Cameron and Fred Hoess finished second; they were 18th after the first set of special tasks, and 14th after the pond-crossing event mid way through. They came on very strong in the last special tasks and were voted third in team spirit. France finished third overall. The Russian team was first in the special task scoring, while the affable pair from South Africa once again were voted the Team Spirit award. In a new category, Greece took home the Land Rover Award for the team with the best standing in tasks involving driving. For R.O.A.V. members wondering where "The Gearbox" is, it went to the press this AM and should be posted out Thursday evening or Friday morning. Cheers *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@aol.com Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 13:51:31 -0400 Subject: Re: LRNA screen savers Tim; No problems with screen saver here...Using windows 3.1 .... Rgds Steve Bradke ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 13:27:03 -0400 (EDT) From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall Thomas) Subject: Re: Phone, Eastwood,help please. Dave, The # is 610-640-1579 or Toll Free 800-345-1178 or FAX 610-644-0560 They are about 25 minutes down the road from me so I'm there every few weeks. Welding stuff is on sale right now. I just got their stitch welder which hooks up to your arc welder. Cuts the current in half and vibrates so it won't burn through thin steel so easily. Perfect for Series door frames. Cheers, Randall >Anybody have the phone number for Eastwood's in the US? I need to order some >more paint today but I left the catalog at home. [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] >Thanks >Dave "I like painting frames" B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Spring-over conversion Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 10:29:22 -0700 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> Granville Pool wrote: >>>begin text There have been a few spring-over conversions done to Land-Rovers but the only ones I've seen are on 109s. It should work on an 88 too but your driveline angles are going to be pretty extreme. In general, it may be necessary to rotate your axle housing somewhat to make the pinion end of each diff angle up slightly. It may also be necessary to have a double-cardan (constant velocity) joint, rather than a simple single cardan (universal) joint, in each propeller shaft. >>>end text Also note that in the front, if you do more than about 1" or 2" of lift, the front propshaft will begin to rub the frame. If you do the spring above the axle conversion, you will have to cut/modify the tranny frame crossmember to prevent damaging the prop shaft. (I bent my crossmember and on extreme axle articulation my propshaft rubs the frame on a stock setup) Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. He'd drive it up the Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..." --Kevin Archie ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@aol.com Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 13:48:54 -0400 Subject: Re: Phone number needed...help please. Eastwood...... 1-800- 534-1178 1-800-544-5118 Rgds Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Daniel Grambihler <danielg@eskimo.com> Subject: Re: D90 door tops, soft top, etc... Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 10:38:30 -0800 (PST) > I have a D90 and would like to be able to take my top off and leave it off > for some period of time. However, I find myself watching the weather [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > (I don't mind getting wet, I just don't want to have to spend alot of time > drying out my interior.) Doug - When my 90 gets exceptionally dusty inside, I park it in the driveway (at an angle), open the tail, and hose out the inside (this has been with the full soft top on). I cover the center console with the provided cover, and afterward, I pull up the rubber floor mats and dry under them (mostly to prevent mold/ mildew), and I empty out the ashtray. Everything else is either sealed (gauges, switches, levers), water-resistant (poly-speakers, seats, interior), or fitted with drainage holes (console cup holders, side pockets, dash shelf). I have noticed no ill-effects, although some of the exposed steel bolts (e.g. on the roll-cage) show signs of surface rust. I have the soft-top in the garage (as well as the safari-cage and rear seat) and had the bimini top installed. Much better than worrying about rain (as I had been for the first 2 months of going "topless", as it were...) Cheers - Daniel -- Daniel Grambihler danielg@eskimo.com '95 D90 #3064 '47 CJ2A ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 14:07:38 -0400 (EDT) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> Subject: Cute editorial from the May Land Rover Owner magazine... Transcript: Almost no other vehicle manufacturer relies on its image as much as Land Rover to move the metal. Unfortunately Lode Lane has fallen foul of the advertising watchdog the Advertising Standards Authority, for claims that three out of four of the vehicles it has built are still on the road. (I think he meant three out of four *ever* built, UM). It appears that Land Rover was being economical with the truth by counting reconditioned, exported, and untaxed vehicles, and not just those working. In fact all those vehicles kept in circulation by Land Rover Owner readers. Apart from exposing this massaging of the figures, this judgement also reveals how Land Rover uses the army of Solihull enthusiasts to maintain its legendary image. Put bluntly, Land Rover is selling Discoverys and Range Rovers thanks to the owners who restore and run older vehicles and the suppliers who make that possible. Ask the buyers of new Land Rovers the reasons they bought one and many will reply that among them was the fact that Land Rover makes the world's toughest vehicles. Just look at the thousands that are still on the road, they'll say. Again, it is the enthusiasts that are behind this perception. There's nothing wrong with Land Rover exploiting its past, but there's a big danger in the way the company is developing. It's moving away from being primarily the builder of utility machines, towards creating expensive vehicles that are never used off-road, and could lose touch with its roots and destroy that vital image. If fashions change, Land Rover could be exposed as the off road king that has no clothes. No ad agency would be able to put that right. Transcript ends... ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@biddeford.com> Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 14:36:04 -0500 Subject: Re: Frame Replacement Log, 15 On 23 Apr 96 at 9:57, Tim Harincar wrote: > I picked up the bulkhead from the painter, and its RED! Woa. It > appears to be the correct color, but its very vibrant - the truck was [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > it bound a couple times, exploded into about 20 fragments. I bought a > better bit and managed to break through. I find that you can avoid this grabbing in soft metal when using a twist drill by taking the edge off the cutting surfaces just slightly with a grinding wheel. The bit scrapes its way through instead of trying to screw itself into the metal. This works especially well on brass, and I have some bits modified like this for some specific jobs I do. Tim, how many revolutions did you make before the bit exploded? Cheers, Ron Bowdoin, Maine, USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 14:12:25 -0400 (EDT) From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu> Subject: Re: antique insurance I deal with those pricks at State Farm myself.....URGH! I had to jump through hoops backwards just to get them to insure the Pig (67 swb). What I did was go to a "speciality" car dealer and have him appraise the Rover. There is a "value guide" for collector cars kind of like a blue book. The guy at the dealer just opened it up and xeroxed the page with the rover on it and signed his name at the bottom with the rover's value circled. All this great service for the price of a beer. State Farm STILL tried to give me grief but I wore them down with my threats of being a total prick right back to them....call the main office, they just love to hear from angry policy holders. Russ W. 67 swb "The Pig" "Coil springs are for pogosticks" On Mon, 22 Apr 1996, Jan Ben wrote: > Dear all, [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] > Thanks > Jan ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 11:47:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael Roberts <psu00712@odin.cc.pdx.edu> Subject: Re: Thank-you Dear LRO's, I would like to thank you for the help in deciding what Land Rover to covet. It looks like, in my situation, the 109" SW is the vehicle to have. I will soon be on the prowl for such. When I go out with the whole tribe of five and spouse, it is for day trips only. The longer trips will be just Tera and I but not until the tribe is a few years older (and I'm out of school) and the extra room will handle the rather largish canvas wall tent well, I suppose... From the sounds of it, most of you people cherish the stock motif. That's good and dandy, I don't really want to sink a bunch-a-bucks into an untried combination of gear. Upgrades that seem prudent and warrantable for me will be...an OD, 1-ton shackles, a PTO winch, a roof rack, ARB air-lockers, Salisbury rear axle, Atlantic British weber convesion and manifolds on a Turner engine (if affordable), and 4.7 diff gears (maybe lower? Don't want to affect highway driveability too much!) turning BFG mud terrains on 7.50 x 16" wheels. Sounds almost ideal to me! And the fact that I have awhile to make the dream come true before I can really flex its muscle. I am not looking for a moster truck wanna-be, but a capable off-roader that isn't a J##p or land crusher. I think this is a match made in heaven! Thanks again for the help. Michael Roberts Portland,Oregon psu00712@odin.cc.pdx.edu P.S. How much is that kitchen suite conversion, and how much gear can I actually stow in the new air lockers? :-) PPS Sorry if this is a repost, my system crashed and burned on my modem and was unable to verify transmission! ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 15:28:51 -0400 From: michelbe@login.net (Michel) Subject: Ford 302 engine conversion question Hello all, I have heard of a 109 SW that is sitting about 300 miles from here. It is known to have a Ford 302 engine installed. Does anybody know what was butchered when this swap took place? I am thinking of putting a 2.25 engine back in (if I decide to purchase the beast) but would like to know if it needs a lot of work to do so. I guess that the bulkhead was modified. How bad? Were the engine mounts on the frame replaced, or does it still have the original ones? Just wondering how hard it is to bring it back to (almost) stock. Thanks in advance, Michel Bertrand Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada ______________________ >>>>>>>>>>>|__________|| ()|______| 1963 IIA 109 PU (top is off) (Rudolph) | ||---| /\ | and friends (109 SW + 88 sw) (not shown) |__________||---|_ \/_| >>>>>>>>>>>|__________||___|______| ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 15:29:51 -0700 From: aj536@lafn.org (Mike McCarthy) Subject: D110 for sale I am posting this for a neighbor: 1993 D110, Fully Loaded, Alpine White (aren't they all?), full light cages, seat covers, floor and cargo mats, Rover removeable sun roof, hood-mounted and rear-mounted spare tires, California car, never off-road, 58,000 miles, #400 of 500, $43,500 obo. Call (310) 478-0277 (Los Angeles). You can call him directly or if you respond to me by email, I will forward the notes to him. Thanks. -- Mike McCarthy aj536@lafn.org ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 20:07:49 -0400 (EDT) From: rovah@agate.net (John Cassidy) Subject: Seat Box Side Replacements After becoming fed up with trying to duplicate the entire side of the seat base myself(too many angles and bends for me!), I took the thing to the local sheet metal shop and they called today and said both left and right complete pieces will cost $43.00. This seems reasonable to me! It sure beats patching the rear edge where the seatbelt mount is located. If anyone is in need of these pieces and would like the name and number of this shop, I can supply it. They used slightly heavier gauge aluminum than standard. If they can't ship to you, I can! Cheers! John Cassidy Bangor, Maine ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 17:36:32 -0600 (MDT) From: Andrew Howton <ahowton@agt.net> Subject: ford engine in a Land Rover Michel Bertrand asks about: >I have heard of a 109 SW that is sitting about 300 miles from here. It is >known to have a Ford 302 engine installed. Does anybody know what was [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] >original ones? >Just wondering how hard it is to bring it back to (almost) stock. I've got a 109 NADA with a ford 289 in it. In my case the conversion has made the vehical far too difficult to put back to original. As a result I have parted it out. The bulkhead was cut up a bit but it was the rust that finished this part, the engine mounts were cut off and the frame has failed, the radiator and the front pannel were cut up quite bad. Almost all the under hood parts for the rover are missing and the conversion is not a reliable looking affair as a whole. I have seen the same type of conversion done on a 2.25L Ser IIa 88in and it was an even worse job. GOOD LUCK! I hope you have an extra parts rover if you try this one. Andrew Howton ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 20:06:04 -0400 Subject: Security by .308 If you must protect your Land Rover by firearms said weaponry should be appropriate to the year and model. Three that come to mind are: Series I : Lee-Enfield No.4 MKI .303 or No.1 MkIII for Ozzies. SeriesII, III, D90: FAL L1A1 .308 Range Rover: Purdy shotgun Perhaps someone else can suggest something for other models. ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 16:53:42 -0600 (MDT) From: "Douglas C. Marbourg" <marbourg@lanl.gov> Subject: D90 For Sale Well, I regret to inform that a friend of mine is forced to sell his '94 D90 #1748. He is my/our local area LR mechanic, and has kept the vehicle very well. The vehicle is red and has the rear seat, soft top, and the '95 trans/clutch. It has 25.5K miles and is a very "tight" vecichle. The asking price is $28.5. If anyone is interested you can contact me via email or Bill Rhoades directly @ (505)474-3610. Doug Marbourg, '94 NAS D90 #1123 Santa Fe, New Mexico marbourg@lanl.gov ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 20:04:19 -0400 Subject: MOD Tool Time Clinton D. Coates inquired about MOD tools, so I answer, to wit: 1) Shovel blade is one piece pressed steel blade and socket riveted to wood handle. Similar in beefitude to the "big'un" hanging on the garage wall by Union Hoe and Fork. Question is : is it also heat treated? I dont know. The pick has pointed and mattock (flat) ends. The pick head is a sep. part that press fits onto the handle, which means if you dont jam it on good n tite it could fly off. It is meant to be portable mainly. A weak point of the shovel is the cute tee handle on the end - v. retro and old world. It might break if a big lug (like me) really leaned into it. Cheers. Andy Blackley ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Simon Barclay <sbar@jna.com.au> Subject: RE: D110 for sale Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 10:57:00 EDT >I am posting this for a neighbor: >1993 D110, Fully Loaded, Alpine White (aren't they all?), full light What's that, your neighbor is loaded?? Rgds Simon ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 18:21:47 -0700 From: cyoungso@direct.ca (Chris Youngson) Subject: Removal of bolts? I am trying to remove the spring bolts at the very front of the truck. They seem to be held in by the rubber bush. I have tried everything I can think of, greasing, pulling pushing. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanx, Chris ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 22:38:50 -0500 From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com> Subject: Re: Security by .308 At 08:06 PM 4/23/96 -0400, you wrote: >If you must protect your Land Rover by firearms said weaponry should be >appropriate to the year and model. Three that come to mind are: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] >Range Rover: Purdy shotgun >Perhaps someone else can suggest something for other models. You did not mention the Disco. Perhaps.... Discovery: Enfield Weapon System L85A1 5.56mm Your Range Rover selection is nice but in my town the only choice for the Range Rover is the Ruger Red Label or Woodside over-and-under. Jeff Kessler 1988 Range Rover Newport NH (Ruger's main plant) USA 603-863-7883 (But really, Newport is nice and safe enough to leave the ordnance at home.) ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 22:53:43 -0400 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: LR screen savers Eric wrote: >Been running the saver for a few days now....no problems so far. So have I. Unfortunately, this morning, I found a puddle of stuff that looked suspiciously like 90 weight underneath my PC.... *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 23:08:59 -0400 From: michelbe@login.net (Michel) Subject: Re: Removal of bolts? Chris was asking: >I am trying to remove the spring bolts at the very front of the truck. They >seem to be held in by the rubber bush. I have tried everything I can think >of, greasing, pulling pushing. Does anyone have any suggestions? Personally, I like the air-tool approach. First, Impact driver: If the bolt can't turn, it will with an impact driver. It will come out sort of easy. If it still can't get out, use an air-impact-hammer (is that the name for it?). With the vibrations, it will come out. Another solution, more drastic, is to use a rat-tail electric saw and to cut off both ends of the bolt between the spring ans the horn. The spring will fall off, with the help of a pry-bar, and all you have to do is burn the rubber piece of the bushing and you will have the bolt free (still welded to the inner bushing but who cares?) Of course, this job is painful, very frustrating and could seem to take forever. Well, look at it this way: It's only a preview for the next task: putting new bushings in..:-) P.S. Putting bushings in a Series frame should be a special task of the Camel Trophy, in my opinion. Good luck, and keep the faith! Your Rover will surely be blessed when you're done with the bushing job. Salut! Michel Bertrand Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada ______________________ >>>>>>>>>>>|__________|| ()|______| 1963 IIA 109 PU (top is off) (Rudolph) | ||---| /\ | and friends (109 SW + 88 sw) (not shown) |__________||---|_ \/_| >>>>>>>>>>>|__________||___|______| ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 20:32:06 -0700 From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Subject: Re: lift door for tailgate At 9:58 PM 4/21/96 -0700, johnliu@earthlink.net wrote: >On Sun, 21 Apr 1996 Land-Rover-Owner said to johnliu@earthlink.net > >I need to find al alternative method for attaching the lift door ; >that sits above the tailgate. I no longer have room to swing the > >lid up. ; >Why no more room to swing up the upper door? ; Because since you saw my 109 a week and a half ago at the Monterey field meet The tropical top got replaced by a Dormobile pop up top. The pop up & rear gutter removes the clearence you need to lift the top door. >Anyway, why not get a one piece SW door? Then you could rig up a neat >little fold-down table on the inside door. I gave it a lot of thought and decided that i just like to sit on the tail gate too often. I will have a stove on one side of the rear entrance and a jump seat on the other. There would be no space for a table & using the stove & seat. TeriAnn twakeman@scruznet.com <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 23:49:16 -0700 From: kelvinc@terrestrial.com (Kelvin Crezee) Subject: Re: D90 Recall Recall for D90 is to replace the pressure plate for the clutch assembly and the other is, well, I'm alzheimering on that other item but I will post it within the next 24-48 hrs. Kelvin Crezee AZ LRO D90 Kelvin Crezee kelvinc@terrestrial.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 08:57:35 +0000 Subject: Re: Removal of bolts? > I am trying to remove the spring bolts at the very front of the truck. They > seem to be held in by the rubber bush. I have tried everything I can think > of, greasing, pulling pushing. Does anyone have any suggestions? Having just removed both front springs (last night -- in the rain)... The front springs have 3 bolts: Front of spring to chassis Rear of spring to hanger Spring hanger to chassis The first one is a simple bolt. I had to use a lenght of steel rod to hammer it out. The two rear bolts thread onto the inner spring hanger, which is then locked in place with a self-locking nut. What I did, which proved painless, was to support the vehicle on two axel stands (resting on it's front bumper) and then use a trolly-jack to lift up the axel to take the weight off the spring. I then undid the 4 self-locking bolts holding the U-bolts and lowered the axel down onto supports, which allowed the springs to decompress properly. The bottom plate, with the shock-absorber attached, I just swiveled out the way and have left it all still joined together. Next I removed the three self-locking bolts from the spring-bolts (they should all be on the inside of the chassis). Then I undid the bolt holding the spring hanger to the chassis and pulled it out (a ring spanner with your fingers behind the bolt head and you can "unbolt" it from the bush) Lastly, I tapped the front bolt out. It does help, however, that I've painted EP-90 onto the sides of my springs, the spring bolts and spring hangers every Sunday for the past few months. ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> Quote of 1996: "A.L.S. is a good example of scottishissityness" ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 24 Apr 96 05:22:03 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@CompuServe.COM> Subject: Re: Who's going to the ARC Nationals? Actually the 'proper' place to discuss things ARC-Rallywise would be the list uk-arc-nr, but it seems people are ignoring that list (or I haven't subscribed properly). Anyway, it seems we already have two meeting-points, one being the Newconcept stand with this air jackoff thing that can lift a Land Rover (sounds interesting), and Jim Pappas' - er, I meant to say BSROA'S club stand which, I presume, will again be strategically placed more or less in front of the main marquee as usual... Stefan <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 24 Apr 96 6:38:19 EDT Subject: Heat-related problem - vapor lock? Vapor lock, of all things. 80-degree day, 2.25 with an 82C thermostat. Bopping down the highway, thermostat reads about 85C. All well and good. Get into a slow crawl for a minute or two, then try to accelerate and the engine power drops out like a Hefty bag of soup off a cliff. Sputter and fart for 45 seconds to a minute, then it takes off. Corrollary problem: Drive for a while, heat up the Rover, then park for 10 minutes. Engine restarts a bit reluctantly, then drive off after a minute or two of idle. Put the power to it accelerating, get into second gear and it's hefty bag off the cliff time again. Fuel filter is fresh. Tonight, I replaced the fuel pump, figuring insufficient pressure might have been causing my problem. Bruce at DAP also suggested gas with too damn much alcohol in it, specifically mentioning the brand I usually purchase. Also, on replacing the pump the bottom half of the bowl was full of crap from the tank. Any ideas I missed? I also tried retarding the timing a few degrees to get the engine to run cooler, and I have a 74C thermostat on order. This engine is beginning to get on my nerves..... -ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960424 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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