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Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 08:56:53 -0400
From: michelbe@login.net (Michel)
Subject: Re: Land Rover Scren Saver

>Rover home page. After several unsuccessful attempts I called Microsoft =

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>that the file appears to be corrupt. I reported this to LRNA> Anyone =
>else experience this problem with the PC screen saver for Windows 95?
Had the ScreenSaver for two weeks now. It's running fine. Lucas must be in
there somewhere...

Salut!

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada
             ______________________ 
 >>>>>>>>>>>|__________|| ()|______| 1963 IIA 109 PU (top is off) (Rudolph)
            |          ||---|  /\ |  and friends (109 SW + 88 sw) (not shown) 
            |__________||---|_ \/_| 
 >>>>>>>>>>>|__________||___|______|
                                             

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 09:12:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Land Rover Scren Saver

cpaulp@ix.netcom.com,Internet writes:
>Recently tried to download the Land Rover Screen Saver from the Land =
>Rover home page. After several unsuccessful attempts I called
Microsoft =
>tech support. They tried at their end and then subsequently one of the
=
>tech reps was nice enough to try on his own PC at home. Bottom line is
=
>that the file appears to be corrupt. I reported this to LRNA> Anyone =
>else experience this problem with the PC screen saver for Windows 95?

I had the same problem on the Windows version when they first put it
up.  No luck on Windows 95 or 3.11, several machines.  It's dead.

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Subject: D90 door tops, soft top, etc...
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 09:06:00 CDT

Stupid question #1:

I have a D90 and would like to be able to take my top off and leave it off 
for some period of time.  However, I find myself watching the weather 
channel to decide when to take it off.  I know that when I got my 90, it 
came with a waterproof cover for the center console, but I was wondering if 
the rest of the interior is equally waterproof?
(I don't mind getting wet, I just don't want to have to spend alot of time 
drying out my interior.)

Sorry, I don't have a second stooopid question, but if I think long enough, 
I'm sure I'll come up with one...

Thanks,
Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

BTW, did anyone else go on the LR off-road event at Doe mountain this past 
weekend?  If so, what were your thoughts on the event.

BTW #2, I saw a post for a door top case for sale and would be interested in 
buying one.  BUT, I deleted the note (I guess that makes up for Stupid 
question #2) and would like to get the person's phone number...  Thanks 
again!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 15:16:24 -0600 (CST)
From: "Jakob Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: RE: Rad. Overflow Tank

In message Sun, 21 Apr 1996 13:58:30 -0400, JDolan2109@aol.com  writes:

> I always wanted one, so this morning I added a radiator overflow
> reservoir/tank. I'm left with two questions. Upon attaining normal
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> be set? If so, is this determined by "operating temperature" coolant
> level in the reservoir or radiator, or perhaps actual cap height of the
> reservoir? Just thought I'd ask...

You need a radiatorcap with a pressurespring that allows overflow, and the
little valve that makes it possible for the cooling system so suck coolant
back in.

Just fill the overflow tank. Exceeding fluid will flow out into the open.
(like all other fluids on a LR:))

I dont know when the cap opens. But normally the cap spring is made to keep
the pressure in the cooling system, so that the boiling point is about 110
deg. Celcius (normally 100 deg.) If the radiator is'nt full, the air inside
will be compressed, and you will not see the expansion as coolant flowing
to the overflow tank.

Cheers.
-----------------------------------
Stine Henriksen / Jakob Christensen
Borrowed account    -   73 sIII 88"
-----------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 13:48:49 UT
From: "Stephen Miller" <BOMILCAR@msn.com>
Subject: RE: Land Rover Scren Saver

Sean;
I put the screen saver for PC on may be a week ago.  What there is of it works 
fine on my windows 95.  It came up rather easily, which was surpassing.  
Steve

----------
From: 	Sean P. Murphy
Sent: 	Monday, April 22, 1996 8:12 AM
Subject: 	Re: Land Rover Scren Saver

cpaulp@ix.netcom.com,Internet writes:
>Recently tried to download the Land Rover Screen Saver from the Land =
>Rover home page. After several unsuccessful attempts I called
Microsoft =
>tech support. They tried at their end and then subsequently one of the
=
>tech reps was nice enough to try on his own PC at home. Bottom line is
=
>that the file appears to be corrupt. I reported this to LRNA> Anyone =
>else experience this problem with the PC screen saver for Windows 95?
I had the same problem on the Windows version when they first put it
up.  No luck on Windows 95 or 3.11, several machines.  It's dead.

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 22 Apr 96 07:13:38 MST
Subject: Securing winches.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist ~ S.R.P. ~ AM/FM - Graphic Records
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486

David asks about securing winches from theft. Here are some ideas that
I've collected:

  1. Using left handed threads. Most thieves wouldn't try turning the
opposite way.

  2. Using "allen head" screws. Most thieves won't have a LARGE set of
allen wrenches. Additionally, you could fill in the allen opening with
silicone. "can" be removed if ever needed, but very time consuming for a
thief.

  3. Using a "wheel lock" like what you would use to protect your wheel.
Key would be needed to remove it.

  4. Rounding off the bolt head. This would require the bolt to be cut
or ground off, even by yourself.

  5. Drill the nut & bolt and thread safety wire through. Time consuming
for a thief.

  6. If you have a welder, you could weld a cover over the bolt heads.
Would need to be cut off to remove the winch.

  7. Cover the bolt heads and nuts with "gobs" of silicone. This would
have to be cut away in order to gain access to the bolts. Time
consuming.

Hope this helps... Maybe good to add to a FAQ file?

Dave (winchless in Phoenix) Brown
 #=====#         #========#            _________
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___       //__/__|__\___
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}     \__/-\_|__/-\_|}
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"         (_)    (_)

 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa        '87 Range Rover
 LIC: LION B8    Historic plates        rear Lock-Right  Bilstein shocks
                                        Crane cam        Optima battery
                                        OME HD springs   SSB CB radio
 Phoenix Arizona USA (602) 820-8052     Hella lights (6)
 Have: tools, knowledge, lodging, etc...  Pager: (602) 275-2508 #6486

#=======#         _________         "What lies behind us and what lies
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___    before us are tiny matters compared
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}  to what lies within us."
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                     Ralph Waldo Emerson

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <dboehme@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 10:21:00 CDT

I've heard talk about a Land Rover Screensaver for Windows.  I only have 
mail access and can't get to the sites.  If someone has a free momemt, could 
you mail a copy of the screensaver to me?  I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:00:28 -0400
From: jim@kidd.com (jnk)
Subject: Florida Ralley

Hello everyone,

Well I am happy to say that the Florida Suwannee River Valley Land Rover
Rally was a success. A good time was had by all. We had a good cross
section of Rovers from Series 88's and 109's to a D90.

Some of the highlights were a deep water crossing by several of the Rovers
and a Polaris Four-Wheeler (everyone looked on as the miniature doberman on
the back poked his head out of the hole cut in the top of his carrier in a
snorkel like fashion) and an impressive winching demonstration by Patrick
Parsons and his Mile Marker 9000 on his Chevy Z-71.

>From the feedback of all who attended, there will be a second annual ralley.

Jim Karantinos
Tallahassee, FL

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Hello? & LR question..
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 16:05:24 BST

> >dowse with fuel, then light with an incendary grenade or artillery piece.
> >If doing the latter at short range , you are recommended to take cover!  :-)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> I was wondering where the PO got his instructions :)
> Just as well he didn't finish the job.

I don't think he (or she?) started - or I hope not!
It seems like its led a double life. Its FFR - Fitted for Radio - still has the
electrics, and the huge "alternator" (generator) [direct replacement costs
more than an engine], but other FFR extras - side aerial mounts, internal
bracketing & shelf, etc are missing. The hardtop is yellow inside (RAF?),
and yellow is showing through the green on the outside. After last week's
scrape, I now know that the main body's colour was bronze green. Ie. I think
the roof and the body have been united at some point through its life.
Most/all FFRs seem to be soft-tops, so I guess mine was a radio wagon of
some kind which was then converted to a people carrier.
I'm pretty certain its been abroad, but doubt its been in battle.
(after saying that, I'll probably find it was on the Galahad, or has been
air-dropped into Yugoslavia).

Eventually, I'll have some definite history.

Richard Marsden

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 11:17:33 -0400
From: michelbe@login.net (Michel)
Subject: Re: LR Screensaver for Douglas

>I've heard talk about a Land Rover Screensaver for Windows.  I only have 
>mail access and can't get to the sites.  If someone has a free momemt, could 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>Douglas Boehme
>'95 Red D90 #2767

It's done. Check your mailbox.

Salut!

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada
             ______________________ 
 >>>>>>>>>>>|__________|| ()|______| 1963 IIA 109 PU (top is off) (Rudolph)
            |          ||---|  /\ |  and friends (109 SW + 88 sw) (not shown) 
            |__________||---|_ \/_| 
 >>>>>>>>>>>|__________||___|______|
                                             

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 11:50:39 -0400
From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Subject: Re: Multimeters

>Alan Smith writes asking for comments about multimeters.  His was carried
>off...perhaps by those ants?

I've owned more Radio Shack meters than I can count.  Whenever I end up on
a job site without a meter, I hit the Shack for a quick fix.  None of them
has ever really failed me, though I've found them to be less durable than
I'd like.  They also lack pinpont accuracy, which isn't really critical for
automotive work anyhow.

My first choice in meters would be a Fluke.  They range in price from US$67
to US$325, depending on features.  For "shop use" I'd opt for one of the
70 Series units.  If it doesn't come with the rubberized yellow holster
stand, (Included on Model 77 and 79) then spend the extra US$10.  You'll
thank yourself the first time the meter falls off of the fender and bounces
off the concrete.  FYI, my Fluke was (had to give it back to my previous
employer) a Model 77 which sells for US$175.  If you're strictly using the
meter for auto/household electric, you might opt for the Model 70 at US$90.
Test leads are included, and they aren't "hard wired" as they sometimes are
on the less expensive Radio Shack models.  (Don't forget another 10 bucks
for the yellow case though.)  Fluke meters use the square 9V batterys,
which I believe are available worldwide.  I can get 9V batteries at any
hour here in the U.S. which is important to me.

Having sung the virtues of Fluke, I have to confess that my current meter
is a Circuitmate DM73 "pocket model."  The [+] probe is built into the case
itself while the [-] probe is on a 3' lead.  Replacement tips and leads are
available, so the meter isn't trash if you catch the tip while closing your
tool kit.

This is an easy meter to carry because it's small.  I've dropped it without
problems so far, but wouldn't describe it as shockproof like the Fluke.
The display is smaller, and can be hard to read at times.  Carry some
alligator clip test leads for times when the probe wire is too short, or
when you need to see the meter reading constantly.  (There is a display
hold feature for snagging a quick measurement and bringing the meter to a
position in which it can be seen.)

The biggest downside of this meter is the fact that it uses two type 76
button cells, which are sometimes hard to come by "after hours."  (And even
if Radio Shack is open, they seem to be out of them, forcing the purchase
of yet another Radio Shack meter.)  This has been a problem, because I seem
to leave this meter on quite a bit.  (The Fluke would shut itself off after
10 minutes of no signal.)  Cost of this meter: About US$50 as best as I can
recall.

By the way, all of the meters I've mentioned are autoranging.  These meters
should be available at any professional electronics supply shop.  I'm sure
Des Moines has a few.  Fluke is a well known brand, that will be easy to
fine.  Circuitmate is less well known, but I see these meters often, so I'd
suspect that it's not too hard to find them.

If price is a factor, I notice that Goldstar is now making a Fluke
lookalike (including the yellow safety holster) model DM313 DMM for  US$60.
I have no experience with this meter (just saw it in a catalog) but it's
probably okay for automotive/household use.  I have no idea how easy it
would be to find one, as I said, I saw it in a catalog.

Hope this helps.  RoverOn!

JAB

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          ==================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

------------------------------

From: 73363.427@CompuServe.COM
Date: 22 Apr 96 11:53:08 EDT
Subject: Performance Parts List

I was trying to find the performance parts list on the net this morning. I
thought it was at Michael Carradine's site, but I couldn't find it. Can someone
please point me in the correct direction?
  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 22-Apr-1996

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Securing winches.
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 16:53:27 BST

>   3. Using a "wheel lock" like what you would use to protect your wheel.
> Key would be needed to remove it.

<winch stuff deleted>

Dave,  I haven't seen these wheel locks. Sound like a good idea. Most of
the time my wheel is in the boot (sorry, trunk/cabin/bus), but its on
the bonnet ATM. I don't know if the straps are standard (ex-mil vehicle),
but its very easy to undo or cut the straps. Haven't seen them
advertised in the UK mags. I guess they connect to the "handle" and "pin"
on my bonnet?

Richard
<without a landy siggy>

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Multimeters
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 17:03:16 BST

Having been known to dabble in electronics, I've been meaning to buy a
multimeter for a while - and finally did, about a week after the Landy
(coincidence? nahhh, course not!)

I wouldn't touch Tandy (Radio Shack/UK) with a barge pole - they are very
expensive for the sort of stuff I'd get. There more consumer-y type of stuff
can seem to be good value, but lacking in spec. For the UK, try
Maplin, or someone like that.
I plumped for a model sold by Maplin (?Academy?) for about L40 (UKGBP).
Autoranging,etc. They had a similar model, not quite as good in the basic spec,
but had more bells and whistles (frequency,etc) - though the basic spec more 
important.

They also had Fluke - but fitting the spec I wanted, would have cost L200+
They are very good - I used to use a F77 a lot. It will last, so you can give 
it to your kids, it really will, but some people (ie. me) are not made of
money.

And the "square" 9V batteries, mentioned, are known as PP3s in the UK.
Every supermarket or newsagent has them over here, although Britain hasn't
quite discovered 24 hour shopping like the US has (yet?)

Richard Marsden
PS: After making those comments about shopping - I did find someone
who made up new brake pipes, and another place selling bleed nipples at
about 5pm on Easter Saturday...    [Long Bank Holiday Weekend, *normal*
closing at 5:30 over here]

------------------------------

From: 73363.427@CompuServe.COM
Date: 22 Apr 96 13:03:13 EDT
Subject: Securing Winches

I missed the first part of this thread but saw David Brown's response. I think
the simplest method to prevent someone removing your winch would be to use
Locktite 262. To remove the nut requires heating the bolt with a torch. Most
thieves wouldn't be carrying a torch with them. If you try to remove the nut
without heating, it will break before this stuff releases. I plan on using it
when I install my winch.
  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 22-Apr-1996

------------------------------

From: Kefi@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:55:24 -0400
Subject: Axle Conversions

I am about to embark on a frame-off restoration on my '69 Bugeye 88.
I will be using the vehicle as a daily runner but also for some semi-serious
trail riding and rock crawling.  I am thinking of doing a leaf spring over
axle conversion (a la 101FC).

Has anyone on the list ever done such a thing or know anyone who has?  If so,
what kind of problems am I looking at?  

Art Patsouris
Kefi@aol.com

------------------------------

From: 73363.427@CompuServe.COM
Date: 22 Apr 96 14:05:30 EDT
Subject: Series Transmissions Q's

I have started looking at rebuilt transmissions and have several questions.

1. Does anyone know what changes occurred between the different suffixes on the
series transmissions? I know that from "B" onwards that the reverse gear was on
roller bearings, but I don't know of any other improvements that have been made.

2. Is "D" the most recent suffix number?

3. I have heard of a modified high-range transfer gear. This basically would be
similar to having the OD engaged in all high range gears, without effecting low
range. Is this an aftermarket part, or something that came off a different rover
transfer? Does anyone know where to get one? Is this a good idea??

4. I have heard that there is a rebuilder in the US. (Mid America Rovers?) Does
anyone have more info, or have any experience with them?

5. Any other things to look for/avoid/include in a rebuilt transmission?

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 22-Apr-1996

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 11:15:24 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Performance Parts List

At 11:53 AM 4/22/96 EDT, Rob Dennis <73363.427@Compuserve.com> wrote:
:I was trying to find the performance parts list on the net this morning.
:I thought it was at Michael Carradine's site, but I couldn't find it....

 It's there, under Aftermarket Parts at http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
 There is also a link to the OVLR/RoverWeb FAQ 3.0 which has a similar
 list.

 Cheers,

                         ______
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                    Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900            [________]               Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88")
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 14:49:41 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: No wonder I married her!

Hi all

Well, I'm in the final stages of the frameover restoration.  Just attaching the tub to 
the seatbox and chassis today.  As some may remember, I had the seatbox repaired by a 
local guy who did a good job.  However, the sides were about 1/4 inch shy of the the 
sill when everything was attached.(He assumed the the sides went straight down to the 
sills instead of a slight angle).  So, I have been puzzling what to fill the space with. 
 My wife recently brought home old conveyor belts from the local Genstar rock quarry.  
They are of 1/4 and 3/4 thickness and are going to be put in the bottom of the horse 
stalls (As those of you in the Pacific Northwest may say "Free is a very good price" 
--obscure reference).  

While standing there thinking "caulk? no  plastic dip? no wood? no washers? maybe..."  
My wife casually walks in, asks what the problem is and then suggests the rubber belt.

Needless to say, it is a perfect fit and is constructed of heavy cotton dipped in 
rubber.  So much for galvanic corrosion.

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 17:57:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Happiness is...

Door tops??? Geee -Wizzzzz guys it's almost May!! just leave the stupid 
things home.  One less rattle as far as I'm concerned.  I took the hard 
top off of the Pig ( my 67 swb)
the second weekend in April and I have yet to freeze. I don't even have a 
"proper" hoop set or canvas.

Russ W.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 14:12:34 -0700
From: vandecar@nwlink.com (Van Decar)
Subject: LR Sighting in Wathne

There are couple of good photos of a white D90 in the safari section of the 
Wathne Spring 1996 Catalog.  Wathne's is an upscale fashion outfit.   ;-) 
Warm regards,

Ted         

vandecar@nwlink.com
Bellevue, Washington

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 22:39:32 +0100
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Multimeters

Richard Marsden wrote:
> .......... Britain hasn't quite discovered 24 hour shopping like the US has (yet?)
> You should investigate Shell (and other) fuel stations, most of which have shops 
attached, and many of which are open 24 hours.
One mile from where I live, there is one such, and a new Tesco Supermarket just opened 
up right opposite them - complete with 24 hour fuel and a well stocked (24 hour) shop.

Of course, none of them has been thoughtful enough to include Land Rover spares in 
their counter stocks!

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 15:41:04 EDT
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: antique insurance

Dear all,

My InsCo (State Farm) will write me an antique policy, but they
won't do it on "agreed value" - they want my cars appraised.
(Condom and Skelly refused to write my '63 Land-Rover, as it supposedly
is still depreciating, and isn't worth $5,000.  Right!)

What is the cheapest way to get an appraisal?  
Thanks
Jan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 15:15:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate)
Subject: RE:Six Days on the Road  

Ray Harder Writes:

"got to come up with the words to the old johnny cash tune "..6 days
on the road (and i'm going to make it home tonight).." cause i know
i will be singing/living it..."

"Six Days on the Road" is not a Cash tune, but is of course by the immortal
Red Sovine, "King of the Trucker Songs".  I don't know all the words either,
but some you WONT need go:

"Just passed a Jimmy and a White, 
Been passing everything in sight..."

...at least if your IIa is as (un)fast as mine.  Good luck and have fun!
(Watch out for "Phantom 409")

Scott Fugate
1970 IIa  (Giddy up 'n go, Daddy, Giddy up 'n go!)
1989 RR

------------------------------

From: 73363.427@CompuServe.COM
Date: 22 Apr 96 21:58:58 EDT
Subject: Sighting

My bride to be is learning quickly. She just spotted two Land Rovers in her
June/July issue of "Bride's" magazine! The first was used in a wedding on Block
Island where the bride married a Scotsman. They used the Land Rovers (Ser IIa 88
pictured) to transport guests to the wedding, where there were also bagpipers
and guests in kilts to make the groom feel more at home. The second was in an
add for honeymooning in Kenya. I thought the Scottish wedding sounded perfect,
but my fiancee seemed set with her plans and would not let me change them.
Honeymooning in Kenya might not be to bad though.....

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 22-Apr-1996

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 19:00:36 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Thanks 2

You wrote: 

>Also, get a timing light on the HT lead off the coil and crank the car. If it 
>doesn't flash, do the same with a test lamp on the distributor side of the 
coil.
>If the HT lead doesn't flash and the test lamp does, coil or wire is bad. if 
>neither does, check your points gap and the wiring in that neihborhood.
>     AJR

Now why didn't I think of that? :)
I've got the timing light handy.

Cheers and thanks 2,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 00:00:43 -0500
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Re: antique insurance

At 03:41 PM 4/22/96 EDT, you wrote:
>Dear all,

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
>Thanks
>Jan
Jan

An agreed value is just that.  For a total loss you will get the $5000, no
more and no less, but the can try and repair the LR for you if it will cost
less than $5000.

An actual cash value (ACV) policy is just that and at the time of the loss
it could be more or it could be less than the $5K.  You are not locked in to
a fixed figure.  If they offer you a "stated amount" policy, read the fine
print, this policy will pay the LEAST of either the stated value or ACV.  So
stated amount only puts a max limit on what may be paid.

Appraisal?  This will always be subjective.  What would someone need to
spend to get a LR similar to yours.  Check the adds listed with RN or AB or
in Hemmings (of course how many of those same ads do you see month after
month?).  Or if you were selling yours, what would someone be willing to
pay?  Can you support your price, pictures, maintenance records, etc.  You
also need to keep things in focus, you could buy an overdrive for $700 for
your LR, but if you were to choose between two similar LRs would you pay an
extra $700 for one just because it has an overdrive?

When I get to work tomorrow I will call a local insurance appraisor and ask
about valuing the older autos (if I remember) and let you know.  We have
another market we are starting to use more than C&S, it is Hagerty (sp).
They are also a big insurer of old wooden boats (you think LRs are a hole to
pour money into, these make LR ownership look like costing pocket change).
I will also get Hagerty's phone number for you.

Sorry to run on so long.

Jeff Kessler (insurance agent (day job))
1988 Range Rover
Newport NH  USA   603-863-7883

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 21:36:43 -0700
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: LR pick and shovel questions

I am thinking about getting a pick and 
shovel set from US Cav and was wondering about
a couple of things;

1) is the shovel made of pressed steel or
   is it a more stout, welded up model?

2) does the pick have two pick points or
   does it have a mattock blade?

enquiring archaeologists want to know

CDC

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 00:52:58 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Future sighting...

Saw a preview on the telly the other night for a TV movie remake of "Born
Free". Sure looked like a Land Rover in the one scene. Haven't a clue when
this is supposed to be shown (Stateside) but I think it is sometime within
the next week.

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 00:52:55 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Rad. Overflow Tank

Jim Dolan asks...

>I always wanted one, so this morning I added a radiator overflow
>reservoir/tank. I'm left with two questions. Upon attaining normal operating
>temperature, nothing happened. Maybe that's what's to be expected?
-

You mentioned that the tank has a cap rated at 14lbs?

Seems to me that the overflow tank on my SerIII just had a loose fitting
plastic cap - and it had an overflow tube of it's own. The overflow tank was
mounted so that its cap was lower than the top of the radiator. My Triumph
Spitfire has an overflow tank which is just basically a plastic bottle with
a hole in the metal lid through which the overflow tube goes.

When the engine gets warm enough to build up pressure, the radiator cap
should let off any pressure in excess of its rating. Off it goes into the
overflow tank. Then, it's supposed to siphon the coolant back into the
radiator when things cool off. Exactly how that radiator cap works both ways
is a mystery to me. 

Cheers
Mike
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 00:53:06 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Thanks on Delco Alt. Diagnosis 

Jeremy Barlett is still chasing sparks...

>These actions resulted in an operative ignition switch.  Lights turn on as 
>the black handle switch is turned and idiot lights come on as the ignition
>is turned and the coil (ign. side) goes hot.
-

Sounds as if you got the worst of it behind you...

>Remaining problems are :
>Still no ignition
>is turned and the coil (ign. side) goes hot.

OK... You have power to the coil. The other side of the coil is connected to
ground through the points in the distributer. Do you have any spark? Easy to
check the coil. Unplug the wire from the coil that goes to the points.
Unplug the HT coil wire from the top of the distributer cap and position it
so that a spark from the wire could jump to something grounded. Get a piece
of wire about 2 ft long and strip both ends. Attach one end to the coil in
place of the wire that went to the points. (I use a short jumper wire with
alligator clips on both ends for things like this.) Touch the other end of
the wire to something grounded. When you *break* the connection, the coil
should produce a spark. Assuming that works, next check the distributer.
Four things to check. (1) Are the points installed correctly? There may be
little insulating washers that if are not in place will cause the points to
short out - in effect, the points never open. At least mine is that way. (2)
Are the points gapped correctly? (3) is the wire from the points to the coil
OK. Check it with a meter - it could be broken inside the insulation. (4) if
everything else checks out, disconnect the condenser and see what happens. A
shorted condensor is the same as the points never opening.
 
> - possible timing (need to check for the 6th time-unlikely),
-

If the timing is off a small amount you should still get a spark and it may
start. Are all the plug wires installed in the right order?? 1-3-4-2 and the
distributer rotates counter-clockwise. If you are not sure, pull the cap
off, rotate the engine around by hand-crank until the timing marks line up.
The distributer rotor should point to the #1 plug and the #1 piston should
be TDC. (Pull the #1 plug out and take a look - or feel around inside
carefully with a piece of stiff wire.) Did you have the distributer off? It
should be possible to only put it back on one way but some people have
managed to get it 180 deg out. 

>possible faulty coil (new unit - but it's Lucas and has been 
>leaking fluid (silicon ??? or ??)
-

Oil probably. Laden with PCB's maybe. (It is a transformer, after all) Have
a taste to be sure. Sounds suspicious at any rate. Any 12V coil will work.
(My SerIII has a Marelli coil from a Fiat!)

>possibly carb.?  (I need to check this).
-

Prime the carb using priming lever on the bottom of the fuel pump (assuming
you have one). You'll know when you are done because you will feel a
diferance in pressure on the lever. Pull the air cleaner hose off the carb
and pump the accelerator once or twice. You should see or at least smell the
gas as it squirts in. Nothing? You do have gas in the tank? How old is it? 

>Fuel gauge - need to check ground and sender unit - the guage only responds 
>weakly when ignition is turned on (at least it goes in the right direction)
-

There is only one wire at the tank. Try grounding it and see what the guage
does. If the guage seems to be working, you may have a bad sender. You may
also have bad connections between the tank and the guage. Or even bad ground
connections throughout.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 00:53:04 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Guide for a Frame Over

Kieth Goffin prepares to start a frame over and asks...

> Does anybody have/know of a book, guide, manual, hand notes on the 
>step-by-step of a frame over?
>I have asked a few folks and they say "You'll have to figure it out like the 
>rest of us."  Any info would be helpful.  Thanks in advance.

-

You'll have to figure it out like the rest of us....  :-)

Seriously, it isn't all that hard to do, just time consuming - especially if
nuts and bolts are all rusted up and all you have are hand tools.

There are a couple of schools of thought on how to disassemble the truck.
You can either take it completely apart or try to leave it in big pieces.
Personally, I prefer the former. Take everything apart, clean it all up,
repair what is needed and then put it back together on the new frame. Lots
more work *and* you get to know the joy of getting all the panels to line
back up. 

What you will need is a place to put all the bits when you take it apart.
Lable things, take notes on wiring connections, get a bunch of plastic
baggies to put small assemblies in so you don't loose the associated
hardware. Don't try to salvage rusty bolts and nuts unless you can't easily
get replacements. Unless you are planning on doing a 100 point show
restoration, nuts and bolts from the local hardware store work out very
nicely for most of what you will need. (The only "Rover" bolts I bought were
the two that bolt the bulkhead to the chassis outriggers - but then I didn't
need to replace my frame either.)

Good luck!

Cheers

Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 00:53:10 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: US multimeter

Allan Smith needs a meter..

>I would be very grateful for a recommendation for a good auto-electrics 
>multi-meter. The person who would buy it has absolutely no idea what I am 
>talking about, but will be in Des Moines, where, apparently, all things are 
>available, given the right instructions.
-

Definately Radio Shack for a cheap one. Sandy Grice said about $12 US for a
pocket sized one. I stopped at the local Radio Shack tonight to have a look.
They have a good auto-ranging one for $49 US and a better non-auto ranging
meter for $59 US. The $59 meter has a higher DC Amp range then the $49 meter
- 10A vs 1A. 

Anyway, It should be very easy to find a Radio Shack in Des Moines - there
probably is one in every shopping mall in town.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Subject: Directions to solihull please
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 23:18:40 -0500

A mate of mine is visiting the factory this week. He will be in a car 
leaving London. Lets assume he can get onto the M1 northbound, can anyone 
give him bozo proof directions from that point to the factory at Lode 
Land please, includiong turn off numbers / exist please?

yours

Robin

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Subject: winch security
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 23:14:19 -0500

If you really need to get the winch of you will be doing this at your 
place, so do the right thing and weld over the nuts. You can always get 
the mini grinder out and replace the bolts, which BTW i hope are graded 
ones.

Robin, if theres a question weld it, guy.

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

From: marsden@digicon-egr.co.uk (Richard Marsden)
Subject: Re: Multimeters
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 8:38:13 BST

> > .......... Britain hasn't quite discovered 24 hour shopping like the US has (yet?)
> > You should investigate Shell (and other) fuel stations, most of which have shops 

Yeah, okay - I know of the Texaco in Cambridge, which was used at all times of
the night by students. I was meaning supermarket/wholesale sort of shops,
really.   Late-night opening now seems standard at the larger stores, so
its probably only a matter of time before 24 hr/7 day is standard.

Richard

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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