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From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 21 Apr 96  8:59:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Delco Alt. Diagnosis Questions

Jeremy.......

There are three wires coming from the alternator - one from the post on the 
back (straight to battery and should carry +12), and the red and white wires 
from the plug.

The red wire from the plug should run to the fusebox for sense, and should also 
be carrying +12. The white wire should run to the bulb on the panel for the 
alternator fail light, and should be cold (ground), until the alternator starts 
to charge, then should go to 12 volts.

If you're not getting these levels, check the fuses and the wiring for these 
levels, and correct the problem.

     Alan

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 96 10:03:51 -0400
From: Sandeep Sardana <sardans@ll.mit.edu>
Subject: Re: New Disco spotted in UK

All the items.

At 07:19 PM 4/20/96 -0500, you wrote:
>The new Discovery, which is moving upscale as the CB 40 goes into 

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
>Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
>FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 07:07:05 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Delco Alt. Diagnosis Questions

You wrote: 

>Jeremy.......
>There are three wires coming from the alternator - one from the post on the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>from the plug.
>The red wire from the plug should run to the fusebox for sense, and should 
also 
>be carrying +12. The white wire should run to the bulb on the panel for the 
>alternator fail light, and should be cold (ground), until the alternator 
starts 
>to charge, then should go to 12 volts.
>If you're not getting these levels, check the fuses and the wiring for these 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>levels, and correct the problem.
>     Alan
Thanks for the rapid response! 
That's rather what I thought should be the case which confirms that the 
alternator appears to be faulty.  The red sense wire is cold.  Unfortunately I 
can't get ignition so can't test the white.  (The standard electrical diagnosis 
problem -- it has to be working to diagnose, but it doesn't work :) )  I'll 
test the circuits again today in case I was getting tired and sloppy yesterday 
(who me screw up?).

Thanks again,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 07:50:06 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Trying to ignite - any help on diagnostics?

You wrote: 

>Jeremy,
>When you did the alternator conversion, did you tie the brown wires together at 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>the site of the old regulator? Sounds sure-as-hell to me like soething in the 
>current path didn't get made when you yanked the box.

This is possible as I'm converting a + earth IIA rather than the - earth.  On 
the + earth the blue on brown wires at A1 are the same and I followed 
instructions.  At the A terminal though there is only 1 white on brown wire from 
the ammeter.  On my circuit diagram (yes I do have one :)) I marked that I 
removed the white on brown wire that connected the ammeter to old volt. reg. 
from both the ammeter and reg.box and isolated it.  [your instructions for the A 
terminal on the - earth version produce a result identical to that already 
existing for the inspection sockets on the + earth, so this seems OK to me]

I've checked all circuits for continuity and voltage and the connections are 
good (although perhaps not right :) ). I'll double check how I changed things.  

>Other than that, 
>the only suggestion I can make is to follow the current path from the battery 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>This connection problem could well be the source of all your problems.
>      Alan
Sounds like one possible issue but altered for the + earth model.  The battery 
flow is to the starter switch and the ammeter and inspection sockets (all tied 
to the battery at the switch) flow is then to the alternator and from there to 
the fuse panel (via the 16 ga red wire -- the one that appears to be cold).

Thinking on my feet here.. or more accurately me arse :) ... the + earth wiring 
generates a cold fuse block....so there's nothing for the sense (16 ga red) wire 
from the alternator to sense ... hmmm... 

FOR THE + EARTH WIRING SHOULD I CONNECT THE ALTERNATOR SENSE WIRE (16ga red) TO 
THE BATTERY SIDE OF THE STARTER SWITCH?  (not meant to be yelling - only an 
important question)

I'm still convinced it's a combination of me and the ignition switch (possible 
also the alternator - but that's probably just something I've not figure out).  

This issue is of course complicated by trying to fire the engine up for the 
first time and having to adjust the mechanicals while figuring out the 
electrics. This is going to be fun; ..... isn't it? :)

Cheers and thanks,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 08:01:51 -0700
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: LR pick and shovel questions

I am thinking about getting a pick and 
shovel set from US Cav and was wondering about
a couple of things;

1) is the shovel made of pressed steel or
   is it a more stout, welded up model?

2) does the pick have two pick points or
   does it have a mattock blade?

enquiring archaeologists want to know

CDC

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 11:07:38 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Traceability

Chris Whitehead sez....

>Just received my report back from Solihul about my Series IIa 88", and there
 really isn't much to see, except the date it was built and the date it was
 shipped to the U.S. In the shipping area it states "H.D.O. Murphy. Rover NY"
 I take it that Rover NY was the old LRNA???, but what is H.D.O. Murphy?? Any
>suggestions would be great.
-

Chris..
I have some of the original shipping documents that came with my 1965 IIa.
One is some sort of shipping card that looks as if it may have been hung of
the inside mirror or something similar. On it is stamped "ROVER NEWARK", the
vessel name - "Bristol City" and then "to order of B.C.T. Avonmouth".

Newark is the port in New Jersey, so maybe the "Rover NY" on yours states
what port it was shipped into. "H.D.O. Murphy" may have been the name of the
boat, maybe not. I have the "Rover Distributers and Dealers" booklet from
November, 1964 which lists dealers worldwide. For the United States only two
are listed - East Coast and West Coast - and you were supposed to contact
them for the name of the dealer in your area. Anyway, the company name (for
both) was:
The Rover Motor Company of North America Limited
East Coast address was:
405 Lexington Avenue
New York 17
New York
   Telephone - Yukon 6-0220
West Coast address was:
373 Shaw Road
South San Francisco
California
   Telephone - Plaza 6-7484

I do have another booklet - from September 1968 - "Rover Enfranchised
Dealers" emblazoned with the dreaded Leyland emblem - but it also has the
Rover Viking ship and the Land-Rover oval on the cover. This booklet lists
all the Land Rover and Rover car dealers in the USA and Canada. I didn't
find anything in New York that looked like H.D.O. Murphy. Some of the pages
in this booklet have become stuck together so I couldn't look through it all.

BTW, the company name at that time was Leyland Motor Corporation of North
America,  111 Galway Place,  Teaneck, New Jersey  07666  (201) 833-8000.

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 11:07:41 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Delco Alt. Diagnosis Questions

Jeremy asks about Delco....

>I've installed a Delco alternator (internally regulated; new rebuild) as 
>per Alan's instructions and I can't get any current to the ignition.  
>I've checked the alternator, the 10ga wire to the ammeter is hot, and 
>both the 16ga wires (red and white) from the regulator terminals are 
>cold (the terminals are also cold).  Should this be the case?
-

OK... this is it in a nutshell.

The white wire on the Delco is for the warning light. You don't really need
it unless you want the warning light to work. The other side of the warning
light should be switched 12V+ through the key switch. To put it another way,
you should only see 12V+ at the warning light when the ignigtion switch is
ON. Your Rover should have been wired that way to begin with.

The red wire is a sense input to the internal regulator. It tells the
regulator how much output is needed. If it is all wired correctly, it is
picking up voltage from the junction point where the old voltage regulator
used to be. 

I don't remember Alan's specific instructions, but the 10ga wire from the
alternator output post should basically be feeding the same junction - where
the old regulator used to be.

My '65 IIa is wired that way and works fine. I had to make no modifications
to the original wiring harness other than adding the 10ga wire for the
alternator output and changing the connections at the alternator end to
accomodate the Delco plug. 

Now, as a variation, my 1972 SerIII was originally equipped with a Lucas
alternator. This had two connections, one for the output and one for the
warning light. I connected the output wire to the Delco output post and the
warning light wire to the white Delco wire. The red wire was then connected
directly to the output post. Worked fine and couldn't be easier to install.

Good luck. If you have further questions, E-mail me directly and I'll see if
I can get into more detail about what to look for.

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>         1964 Triumph Spitfire - BRG

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 11:07:46 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Imaginative jack use

Andrew Howton sez...

>wheels,  the passanger was also very impressed he offered to buy it on the
>spot which was Funny because I was taking him for a test drive at the time
>as it was for sale.
-

Maybe he was afraid that if he didn't buy it you would try flipping it
upside down!!  Hellofa sales tactic there, Andrew!

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

From: "David Dodell" <david@stat.com>
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 96 08:48:42 -0700
Subject: sheep skins for 96 Discovery

I am trying to find sheep skins for a 96 Discovery with electric seats.

The dealerships keep telling me that they have not heard anything from
LR about this being available.

Any one know of another source?

David Dodell
---
Internet: david@stat.com
Web      : http://www.stat.com
Fax        : +1 602 614 1129

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 18:55:36 +0200
From: D Jordan <djordan@neptune.infolink.co.za>
Subject: Workshop Manual

Can anybody recommend more detailed workshop manuals than the Land Rover
publication "Part No LDAWMEN93" to cover both mechanical and bodywork in
detail for 1989 and 1992 County V8 Station Wagons?

Please email direct if possible

Dennis Jordan (husband of Denese!!)

------------------------------

From: Keith Goffin <keith@emsi.com>
Subject: Guide for a Frame Over
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 96 12:22:00 PDT

Fellow Rover Fiends,

As a newbie to the rover restoration world, I am looking to the elders of 
frame overness for advice.  I will be starting a frame over on my 1970 SIIa 
88" (Sheila) this summer.  I have a copy of Lindsey's DIY Restoration Guide 
(a great book but I'm looking for a few more specifics).  The question? 
 Does anybody have/know of a book, guide, manual, hand notes on the 
step-by-step of a frame over?

I have asked a few folks and they say "You'll have to figure it out like the 
rest of us."  Any info would be helpful.  Thanks in advance.

Keith Goffin
1970 SIIa 88" (Sheila)
keith@emsi.com
Columbus, Ohio

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 14:04:29 -0700
Subject: Re: capabilities 'twix 88" and 109"

On Fri, 19 Apr 1996, "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> wrote:

>So obviously we need to be careful when when we throw figures  
>to make sure we are talking about the same vehicle.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>If the person was in the UK the varity of likey vehicle 
>configurations would, of course, be much greater.
Absolutely true...somewhere way back when I got the idea that the SW was longer 
than the Regular....when I saw the different numbers I just assumed (very 
dangerous thing, I know).  Reality just didn't enter into the picture.  I think 
I've been spending too much time in my ARB locker.....
Stupid thing is, I could have just walked outside with a tape measure, checked 
my LR and my father's and settled the whole damn thing once and for all....but 
then again, that would mean I would probably find yet another thing to do on my 
Rover, and I would have never made it back in to actually start the conversation 
in the first place....;)

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 14:04:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Happiness is...

On Fri, 19 Apr 1996, Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca> wrote:

>> 'em off. I don't know why I didn't do this last summer. My question is has 
>> anybody figured out a good method of stowing the doortops in the back of 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>	seems to be a very useful way to carry them about, yet keep them out
>	of the way.  Eric can probably provide better details.
Ask and ye shall recieve....

I'll do my best to describe the setup on my father's rover but if there is 
enough interest, I'll post some close-up pictures of it on my web page.

The brackets are bolted to the body just above the "bump" on the side of the 
entire vehicle...the same bump that distinguishes SII and all subsequent LRs.  
The bracket then extends off the body enough so that the door top bolts clear 
the side of the vehicle.  At the end of each of these brackets is a tube, into 
which the door top bolts fit.  The top of the door is then secured against a 
rubber bump stop, mounted just aft of the rear window with a loop of leather and 
a buckle.  The whole arrangement can be adapted to work almost anywhere;  I 
think the best place is towards the back of the vehicle as that space is usually 
ot used for much else and it isn't too prone to damage as say mounting it in a 
cargo area.

Now, if anyone understands my description.....my hat is off to them.
If you need more info let me know...this is something I know about....unlike the 
various lengths of 109s :)

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 13:58:30 -0400
Subject: Rad. Overflow Tank

I always wanted one, so this morning I added a radiator overflow
reservoir/tank. I'm left with two questions. Upon attaining normal operating
temperature, nothing happened. Maybe that's what's to be expected? I thought
there might have been passage of fluids when the thermostat opened or
something. Maybe it only happens at an 'overheat' stage? I'm left with a few
questions:
1). The new overflow tank has a 14 lb cap. The radiator still has it's
original cap on it. Should the cap at the radiator or reservoir  be changed?
2). Is there an optimum level at which the overflow tank should be set? If
so, is this determined by "operating temperature" coolant level in the
reservoir or radiator, or perhaps actual cap height of the reservoir?
Just thought I'd ask...
see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!  

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 17:51:56 -0400
Subject: Door Top Cases!

One of our club members in SOLAROS is manufacturing heavy-duty padded
cases for the doortops on series vehicles and D90's.  The case is heavy
nylon with strap-down point across the back, big zippers, a pocket for
tools & fittings, and thick foam padding (unlike the Land Rover
version).  These things are very nice and allow you to take the tops
off and carry them with you greenlaning without worry of breaking your
doortops.  He is looking for between $120 and $140 for them, depending
on how many people are interested in them.  If anyone would be
interested, drop me mail and I'll put you in touch (he doesn't have net
access).

------------------------------

From: EAscensao@madinfo.tst.pt
Subject: Re: Workshop Manual
Date: 21 Apr 1996 18:32:51 GMT

Try contacting Booksped 	Internet on	http://www.bookspeed.co.uk/cars/  
				by e-mail to 	bookspeed@bookspeed.win-uk.net
				phone		+44   181   994 70 54
				fax		+44   181   995 26 24

Eascensao@madinfo.tst.pt

------------------------------

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 14:21:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Traceability

Mike,

I just got my trace back also.  My '72 was shipped to Newark, NJ in March
'72.  Would be interesting to try and find out what happened to the old LRNA
records so we could do our own research.

'til later,

Larry Smith

------------------------------

Wasted...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 12:00:38 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Guide for a Frame Over

You wrote: 
>As a newbie to the rover restoration world, I am looking to the elders of 
>frame overness for advice.  I will be starting a frame over on my 1970 SIIa 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>step-by-step of a frame over?
>Keith Goffin

Nothing I'm aware of covers the specifics of a frame over (it rather varies by 
individual).  Basically to do a thorough job you're going to be disassembling 
every component at at least checking if not rebuilding it.  In doing mine 
(almost complete, barring getting the engine to fire up and doing the body 
cosmetics) I relied on the shop manuals and parts catalog, the Haynes guide, 
Lindsey's DIY guide (rarely referred to), and many, many pestering questions to 
fellow LR nuts on the 'net when I get stuck (or sometimes lazy).  I think you'll 
find that regardless of which reference you use (get them all they all have 
strengths and weaknesses) the advice, experience, etc. from this group will be 
invaluable.  
cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 14:04:25 -0700
Subject: Re: crash tests...

On Fri, 19 Apr 1996, "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> wrote:

>> >   Wonder how a geo metro driver would fair at 40mph crash into a 
>> >   concrete wall
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>-
>Ummm. Don't drive in your fire district? :-)
Not if a red and white Rover with a blue light barelling down a narrow dort road 
scares you.........public safety??????   :)

Eric

------------------------------

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Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 13:22:01 -0500 (CDT)
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------------------------------

From: "C. Paul Patsis" <cpaulp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Land Rover Scren Saver
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 18:52:51 -0700

Recently tried to download the Land Rover Screen Saver from the Land =
Rover home page. After several unsuccessful attempts I called Microsoft =
tech support. They tried at their end and then subsequently one of the =
tech reps was nice enough to try on his own PC at home. Bottom line is =
that the file appears to be corrupt. I reported this to LRNA> Anyone =
else experience this problem with the PC screen saver for Windows 95?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 19:33:14 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Thanks on Delco Alt. Diagnosis 

Thanks to all (Bob, Alan, Mike) for the help diagnosing the alternator set 
up.  It now seems to be up and running; now I can move on to the next 
problems :)

The solution comprises: 

Run the alternator output (red 10ga) to the battery side of the starter 
switch ('65 IIA previously + earth).

Run the white alternator (16ga) wire from the plug to the idiot light as 
indicated.

Run the red alternator (16ga) wire to the white wire side of the fuses 
switched fuses (lower set on mine - but that might have changed).

Connect together all three wires (blue on brown and white on brown) from the 
A and A1 posts of the now abandoned voltage regulator.

These actions resulted in an operative ignition switch.  Lights turn on as 
the black handle switch is turned and idiot lights come on as the ignition is 
turned and the coil (ign. side) goes hot.

At this point I can relate a somewhat amusing PO story.  The fellow I bought 
Mathilda from had the ignition out claiming it was broken and needed 
replacing which was part of the reason he was selling it "as is - not 
running".  This was part of the reason I suspected it.  In the end I think it 
turns out that the dead but intact fuse I came across was the cause of his 
problems.  Given my own mediocre working knowledge of electrics I don't dare 
derive too much amusement from this though.

Remaining problems are :

Still no ignition - possible timing (need to check for the 6th time 
-unlikely), possible faulty coil (new unit - but it's Lucas and has been 
leaking fluid (silicon ??? or ??) and given the failure rate of new 
components I'm not exactly relying on it; I've got a duplicate replacement to 
swap in), possibly carb.?  (I need to check this).

Fuel gauge - need to check ground and sender unit - the guage only responds 
weakly when ignition is turned on (at least it goes in the right direction)

So its almost "all systems go" :)

cheers and thanks again,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 20:22:04 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re:lift door for tailgate

I need to find al alternative method for attaching the lift door that sits
above the tailgate.  I no longer have room to swing the lid up.

I would like to hinge it from the side using rear door hinges.  However, if
you look at the way the top lid is constructed it doesnt lend itself well
to hinging.  Big sheet metal screws obvoiusly won't do it.  I mot sure if I
need to cut away part of the inner door or what.

Anyone whith a tail gate 7 lid care to look at it & give me your best guess??

Puzzled

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com   <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS

Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 23:27:05 -0400
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Multimeters

Alan Smith writes asking for comments about multimeters.  His was carried 
off...perhaps by those ants?

Radio Shack makes a fine auto-ranging pocket sized unit, less than half the 
size of a pack of smokes.  Paid about $12 for it but spent at least that 
much money on batteries when I've left it on.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 20:56:45 -0700
Subject: Re: Land Rover Scren Saver

On Sun, 21 Apr 1996, "C. Paul Patsis" <cpaulp@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>Recently tried to download the Land Rover Screen Saver from the Land =
>Rover home page. After several unsuccessful attempts I called Microsoft =
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>that the file appears to be corrupt. I reported this to LRNA> Anyone =
>else experience this problem with the PC screen saver for Windows 95?
Been running the saver for a few days now.....no problems so far.

Eric

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 21:36:38 -0700
From: kelvinc@terrestrial.com (Kelvin Crezee)
Subject: Re: AZ -LRO

I am not sure that this is the 28th event sponsored by Land Rover of
Scottsdale/Camelback or if this is planned for early May but it is coming up
real soon.
There will be a tour of the Sycamore river area( near Saguaro Lake turn off ).
I had the great pleasure of taking the tour early because I met the 4
wheeler who set up the route.  This is a spectacular 4 wheel drive tour
which may take all day with a group, but alone could be done in about 4
hours.  There is some very technical stuff that could be done along the way
while those less prone could watch from a safe vantage point.  I would
highly recommend this tour it is a true 4 wheel event that will test your
skill without any danger and show you what these Rovers can really do.  By
the way you should be able to come through scratchless, but yes very dusty.
At the end of the tour if the Salt River is low enough it will be crossed at
Dynamite trail road and back then to Pima Rd and on into Scottsdale.
However, if it is still high another loop has been planned and I think
better than crossing the river anyway ---except of course that river running
is alot of fun.

Kelvin Crezee
AZ LRO, Balooga black D90

Kelvin Crezee

kelvinc@terrestrial.com

------------------------------

From: jve@phaseone.dk
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 06:30:16 
Subject: Hills in Denmark

Hi all.

On April 12th, Walter C. Swain wrote:

>A hill?  In Denmark?  Is this something that has just been constructed?
>Must be another one of those Scaninavian engineering marvels.

You're right to a certain extent, Walter. In Denmark we don't have hills, we 
have bumps on the road. We just like to call them hills, OK?
To illustrate the way we think, the highest place in Denmark is 173 meters above 
the sea. A lower but better known place is 147 above the sea and we call it "Sky 
Mountain". Cute isn't it?
Also, we construct hills. We call them bridges. Denmark is basically a peninsula 
and a lot of islands, so we need quite a few bridges. To enable ships sailing 
under these bridges, they become hills :-)
As a matter of fact, the largest suspension bridge in the world is currently 
being built over the Great Belt.

Happy Rovering.

Jens Vesterdahl
1972 109 STW

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 21:58:03 -0700
From: johnliu@earthlink.net
Subject: lift door for tailgate

On Sun, 21 Apr 1996 Land-Rover-Owner said to johnliu@earthlink.net
   >I need to find al alternative method for attaching the lift door
   >that sits above the tailgate.  I no longer have room to swing the
   >lid up.
   >I would like to hinge it from the side using rear door hinges.
   >However, if you look at the way the top lid is constructed it
   >doesnt lend itself well to hinging.  Big sheet metal screws
   >obvoiusly won't do it.  I mot sure if I need to cut away part of
   >the inner door or what.
   >Anyone whith a tail gate 7 lid care to look at it & give me your
   >best guess??
   >Puzzled
   >TeriAnn
   >twakeman@scruznet.com   <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS
   >Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet
Why no more room to swing up the upper door?

Anyway, why not get a one piece SW door?  Then you could rig up a neat
little fold-down table on the inside door.

My truck has both and I found it easier to get into the back with the
swinging door rather than climbing over the tailgate.

John Y. Liu johnliu@earthlink.net
Via HP200LX and NetTamer

`[1;36;46mNet-Tamer V 1.02.2 - Test Drive

------------------------------

Subject: Re: nh-coup
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 96 21:21:16 -0500

                 GENERAL SERVICE By Robin Craig

Note this is a mulitple address transmission, General Service is a 
monthly column appaering in OVLR's newsletter, its is not in any way an 
expression of OVLR policy or opinions or views. The views expressed are 
solely those of the author. 

The big news this month for those of you who are not internet connected 
has to be the announcement that Land Rover will be selling an automatic 
Defender 90 in the US. It will be the only transmission available for the 
vehicle.

If you are lucky enough to go to the UK and call the factory for one of 
their famous tours of the Lode Land establishment be aware that the line 
stops running on Fridays at aproximatly noon. If you plan on going in the 
near future you should be aware that areas of the factory will be closed 
to you as the production of the CB40 will be taking place. This is the 
small Land Rover product that is set to take the place of the lower end 
Discovery. Bearing that last statement in mind it should come as no 
surprise to know that there are moves afoot to increase the overall size 
of the Discovery as it moves upmarket to fill some of the niche that was 
taken by the Range Rover. The revised Discovery that has been seen is 
about 2 1/2 to 3 inches longer after the wheel arch. Under the hood is a 
5 cylinder Tdi engine. This engine has been around for a while and has 
been hotly denied by the factory. A colleague of mine once chased a 
Defender 90 that was out on road trials and even in his sporty car could 
not keep up to the 90 that was full of extra get up and go. Discreet 
questioning revealed that a modified power plant was indeed installed but 
no pictures today thank you!

Awelcome addition to the Ottawa traffic will be a five speed Discovery 
recently purchased by the new British High Commisioner. The sale was made 
by our local dealship who are doing a roaring trade at the moment, the 
current sales are nearly at a vehicle a week. The showroom has recently 
been redecorated and a booth has been added to house a line of Land Rover 
Gear, a clothing line with the Land Rover logo on it. This is expected to 
arrive shortly. It will be interesting to compare the prices in the shop 
for the Land Rover Gear with that advertised in the UK Land Rover 
magazines.

New on our shores and long overdue is the arrival of Land Rover Owner 
magazines shop here in North America. Based in Oshawa Ontario the British 
based magazine has set up a toll free order number at 1-800 LRO SHOP or 
1-800 576 7467 for those of you who have trouble working this out! They, 
like all of us who are hip with technology also have an email address 
which is lroshop@direct.com  kind of appropriate. There will not be any 
direct shipping of items from a North American base. The items you order 
will still come from the UK.  I think it is a real shame they they have 
not capitalised on the fact that there ares ome really good companies 
already established in North America who are already in tune with the 
Land Rover community who could have done a great job in being the North 
American agents for the LRO shop. The one that come to my mind, and has 
had the most proffessional service and the best name in my book is Rovers 
North.

If you own a Warn winch or want to get information on the Warn prodcut 
line then by calling 1 800 543 WARN you will be connected to a very 
efficient and courteous customer service system. Bill Kessels has 
recently bought a Warn winch second hand and wanted and ownewrs manual 
for the winch, and a couple os safety decals that had been removed. The 
folks at Warn are sending him an owners manula and the decals in the mail 
at no charge. Thats what I call service, especially as those of us who 
know Bill would understand that he would have paid for such items!!

If you happen to be in the North Carolina area in the beggining of May 
you might get to see alot more of Land Rovers than you usually do. The 
reason for all the activity is Exercise Purple Star, and Anglo American 
military training exercise with the involvement of the British 3 Commando 
Brigade who will carry out amphibious landings at camp Lejeune with the 
US Marines and 5 Airborne Brigade who's Paras will be dropping in, so to 
speak, on Fort Bragg. I understand that light vehicles such as Land 
Rovers, and some of the new Wolf variants will be included in the line 
up.

I have a number of nice black and white line drawings of the 101Forwad 
Control military Land Rovers kicking around here at home. They are free 
for the asking if you want a set, just send me 5 USD if you live in the 
states or 5 CDN bucks for Canada. This just covers my postage costs.
I can be reached at 1 613 738 7880 or at 2821H Baycrest Drive, Ottawa, 
Ontario K1V 7P6 or by email at rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca.

See ya all next month   Robin ......

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 22:37:10 -0700
From: kelvinc@terrestrial.com (Kelvin Crezee)
Subject: Re: throttle cable

I was out D90 4 wheeling yesterday and after some rather difficult hill
climbs and heavy throttling in 2nd and 3rd locked low my throttle was stuck
in about 1/2 full out.  I cut the engine and looked under my hood and the
throttle cable just before it gets to the pully metal arm thing (sorry I am
not a mechanical name buff) it attatches to a metal arm by a very cheap
plastic press lock.  Well, this plastic press lock doesn't lock in any more.
OK I was really going pedal to the metal but I still think it ought to hold
longer than 5000 miles. Anybody else have this problem with D90?  

On another note, my lock box lock broke and I took it apart to see if I
could fix it myself.  To my amazement this lock is held in place by two
screws about 6mm long and 2mm thick core.  All you have to do to break these
guys loose is push your key in more than 20 times. Well, anyway the dealer
is happy to replace it, but they also told me there is a RECALL on my D90
for something near the clutch plate and under the hood (engine).  Sorry I
don't have the specifics when I learn them I will post it to you all.

Kelvin Crezee
AZ LRO Balooga Black D90
Kelvin Crezee

kelvinc@terrestrial.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 02:41:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Roberts <psu00712@odin.cc.pdx.edu>
Subject: Thank-you

Dear LRO's,

	I would like to thank you for the help in deciding what Land 
Rover to covet.  It looks like, in my situation, the 109" SW is the 
vehicle to have.  I will soon be on the prowl for such.  When I go out 
with the whole tribe of five and spouse, it is for day trips only.  The 
longer trips will be just Tera and I but not until the tribe is a few 
years older (and I'm out of school) and the extra room will handle the 
rather largish canvas wall tent well, I suppose...  From the sounds of 
it, most of you people cherish the stock motif.  That's good and dandy, I 
don't really want to sink a bunch-a-bucks into an untried combination of 
gear.  Upgrades that seem prudent and warrantable for me will be...an OD, 
1-ton shackles, a PTO winch, a roof rack, ARB air-lockers, Salisbury rear 
axle, Atlantic British weber convesion and manifolds on a Turner engine 
(if affordable), and 4.7 diff gears (maybe lower? Don't want to affect 
highway driveability too much!) turning BFG mud terrains on 7.50 x 16" 
wheels.  Sounds almost ideal to me!  And the fact that I have awhile to 
make the dream come true before I can really flex its muscle.  I am not 
looking for a moster truck wanna-be, but a capable off-roader that isn't 
a J##p or land crusher.  I think this is a match made in heaven!  Thanks 
again for the help.

Michael Roberts
Portland,Oregon
psu00712@odin.cc.pdx.edu

P.S.  How much is that kitchen suite conversion, and how much gear can I 
actually stow in the new air lockers? :-)

------------------------------

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