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msgSender linesSubject
1 jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.c24LROA meeting
2 "S. Vels" [svels@mail-se14 RE: Avon tires/tires
3 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (26Re: CB M.Cylinder Tear Down
4 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (19Re: Hello? & LR question..
5 chrisste@clark.net (Chri24Series Question-Brakes
6 Allan Smith [smitha@mail17US multimeter
7 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (26Delco Alt. Diagnosis Questions
8 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (45Trying to ignite - any help on diagnostics?
9 WHP [jdputnam@pacifier.c28[not specified]
10 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (15Re: LROA meeting
11 Greg Moore [gmoore@mail.34Re:
12 rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca21[not specified]


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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 09:56:45 -0800
From: jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us (john hess)
Subject: LROA meeting

This will be the next LROA meeting:

 Announcement for LROA Board meeting with membership invited.
        May 5, 1996 at 11 AM at Cole European, Walnut Creek
 Agenda:
        Adoption of the Business Plan.
        Adoption of the Organization Outline (particularly "Outline" 1-5).
        Open PO Box in Walnut Creek for (all) LROA correspondence, close others.
        Set terms and nominate Honorary Memberships for *PAST* LROA/NA officers.
        As always, seek volunteers for various positions, chairs and offices.
        Plus anything else to be brought up by motion at the meeting.

Please feel free to email ideas and comments to me for discussion at the
meeting.

jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
from home via modem
Land-
  -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and Mazda owner!

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From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date:          Fri, 19 Apr 1996 19:40:37 +0001
Subject:       RE: Avon tires/tires

> don't believe they make four wheel drive tires any more.  Maybe they are 38 
> years old!!!!

They still make the Rangemaster 7.50-16. I'm getting a pair on the 
rear within the next few weeks.

rgds
sv/aurens

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Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 21:42:43 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: CB M.Cylinder Tear Down

You wrote: 
>Began the tear down & rebuild process of my brake master cylinder   
>tonight. Ran into a snag - I couldn't get the large end cap off.

snip
>Tim
>tonight. Ran into a snag - I couldn't get the large end cap off.

I suppose this isn't exactly the precise helpful advice you were 
looking for, but from what I've heard I'd be very tempted (well, OK 
I did :) ) to switch to a new CV master.  Not the least of my 
reasons was the CB basically requires pressure bleeding and/or a lot 
of cursing.  Of course, this is a lot of money (about $150 to $200 
when you add altering the reservoir to mc lines) but would be easy 
to do in your vehicle's current state.  Then again how much is time 
and swearing worth while rebuilding the CB, if it can be redone to 
effective form?

cheers,

Jeremy

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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 09:42:14 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: Hello? & LR question..

You wrote: 

>Probably not, because its the only bit of the manual which is in
>bureaucratic wibble - with lots of cross-referenced paragraphs which
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>dowse with fuel, then light with an incendary grenade or artillery piece.
>If doing the latter at short range , you are recommended to take cover!  :-)
I was wondering where the PO got his instructions :)

Just as well he didn't finish the job.

Cheers,

Jeremy

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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 20:21:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Series Question-Brakes

Hi All,

Spent the day putting new ball joints on the longitudenal arm, which went
surprisingly well by the way thanks to the pickle fork supplied by Nate
Dunsmore.

Now, does anyone know the minimum thickness for brake linings on 10-inch
drums? The workshop manual says that 3/16ths of an inch is spec., but what
is minimum? My front shoes measure 1/8th.

Thanks

_____________________________
BCG Corporate Communications
Towson, MD USA
Voice: 410-583-1722
Fax: 410-583-1935
E-Mail: chrisste@clark.net
1969 SRIIa 88" SW

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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 21:46:45 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@mail.CandW.lc>
Subject: US multimeter

Greetings from the Indies. 
In the course of the day I have continued my 12,000 mile service, found that my 
spots have stopped working, that my multimeter has grown legs and vanished, and 
that my neighbour will be going to the US in a week and has offered to bring 
back any smallish/essential items.
I would be very grateful for a recommendation for a good auto-electrics 
multi-meter. The person who would buy it has absolutely no idea what I am 
talking about, but will be in Des Moines, where, apparently, all things are 
available, given the right instructions.
Allan Smith
90 Tdi
St. Lucia

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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 19:49:45 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Delco Alt. Diagnosis Questions

Hello again, more pestering question on electrics.

I've installed a Delco alternator (internally regulated; new rebuild) as 
per Alan's instructions and I can't get any current to the ignition.  
I've checked the alternator, the 10ga wire to the ammeter is hot, and 
both the 16ga wires (red and white) from the regulator terminals are 
cold (the terminals are also cold).  Should this be the case?  It 
doesn't seem right to me.  Am I missing something or does this indicate 
a problem with the alternator?
The only change I made to the procedure provided was to wire the 
alternator ground to the block.

Also, I understand that the 16ga red wire that runs from the alternator 
to the fuses is connected at the same level as the fuse for the interior 
light.  Am I right or wrong?

Thanks much for any help.

Cheers,

Jeremy

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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 20:05:28 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Trying to ignite - any help on diagnostics?

Well I've had quite a day diagnosing electrics in the process of trying 
to get Mathilda's ignition working to no avail.  At least I know just 
about all the circuits are working or accounted for with a few critical 
exceptions. 
The gasoline entered the pump nicely - I was half expecting to have to 
prime it.
I think I've got the static timing set properly (from Haynes) although 
the distributer is angled about 45 degrees away from the block (measured 
based on the direction of the vacuum outlet); this seems a bit high to 
me.

One of the problems I came across was an intact apparently perfect main 
fuse that would not pass current; unfortunately this was not the cause 
of the ignition failure.  Makes one wonder though.

The fuel guage doesn't read any fuel level - unless I reverse the leads 
at which point it pegs at full (I've only got 15 gallons in).  I've not 
pulled the fuel sender from the tank and tested it yet.  I guess when I 
do, if it's OK I'll hot aligator clip it to the guage and see what 
response I get.

The alternator circuit (Alan's Delco conversion) is hot through the 
ammeter but delivers nothing to the ignition.  I need to look carefully 
at the details here.  I've posted separately on this.  I think the 
alternator's not up to snuff.

If I by pass the alternator and wire direct from the battery to ignition 
the system still doesn't work.  This suggests to me that the ignition 
switch is shot.  None of the light switches off the ignition swtich work 
either although each light assembly hot tests perfectly from the 
battery.  Is there a way of diagnosing the switch beyond what I've 
already done?  With new units now running $140 a pop at RN and more from 
BP I'm hoping it's not dead, but it does seem so.

Well, time to rest and take a fresh look at the diagrams tomorrow.  
Thanks for any input.

Cheers,

Jeremy

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From: WHP <jdputnam@pacifier.com>
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 19:31:31 -0700

Greeting All,

I've been watching the threads on revitalizing road springs and have =
just one question.  How does cleaning up and oiling the road springs add =
lift?  I understand how oiling could reduce friction, resulting in a =
quieter and smoother ride but the lift baffles me.

On another note, I'm about to rebuild my Weber carb and want to change =
the air filtration system.  I currently employ a gauze type filter which =
is constantly  full of dirt and oil causing it to act more like a choke =
than a filter.  I would not recommend this to my worst enemy and want to =
be rid of it once and for all.  At some point I would like to get a =
snorkel, do I need to have the original filter system?  I still have =
most of the original oil bath filter assembly and have thought about =
casting an adapter to fit the Weber to the hose from the bath.  I have =
heard that the bath type restricts to much air volume, has anyone =
experienced this?

Thank in advance

John Putnam
'70 SIIa SWB
Beaverton, OR

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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 22:08:15 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Re: LROA meeting

You wrote: 
> Announcement for LROA Board meeting with membership invited.
>        May 5, 1996 at 11 AM at Cole European, Walnut Creek

Ummm... is this actually at the dealership or do you circle to block a 
few times just to get them sweating and then go off somewhere else?

Cheers,

Jeremy

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Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 21:34:13 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@mail.comox.island.net>
Subject: Re: 

> I've been watching the threads on revitalizing road springs and have =
> just one question.  How does cleaning up and oiling the road springs add =
> lift?

Ok. after one month I'm still at 3/8" higher (with one less leaf) than I 
was with the rusted clumps of weight I was riding on before the 
grinding/painting/greasing. Someone described the typical clapped out 
spring pack as looking like a bowtie. Great description. Not a shape 
condusive to longitudinal movement! What I believe happens is as follows: 
 when the spring is compressed (speed bump, big rock etc.) the leaves 
creep along one another and the rust prevents them from returning as they 
should. Further rusting means less movement of any kind, a bonejarring 
ride, and fuses that appear fine but have the element mysteriously 
separated from one or the other end :-) Shouldn't axle droop counteract 
this? Yes it should but compression is a far more common situation for 
most springs while droop is more the exception. The compression part of 
the cycle is also more violent than the following droop in most cases. 
Sometimes a slight (and very temporary) change in vehicle height will be 
noticed after jacking up a corner and allowing the  axle to droop, and 
the leaves to separate (assuming they are not as rusted as my last set!) 
and realign themselves. This lengthwise movement is the main argument 
against over tight spring clamps that encourage a harsh ride and tend to 
lock leaves in position relative to one another giving a headstart to 
'bowtie' causing rust.

Hope this makes some sense.

Cheers, Greg
usual disclaimer, opinions expressed are mine only ..... etc., etc.

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Subject: New Disco spotted in UK
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 96 19:19:15 -0500

The new Discovery, which is moving upscale as the CB 40 goes into 
production this month. The new Discovery is slightly longer , infact long 
enough to fit a third row of saets.  The vehcile that was spotted was 
powered by was is beleived to be a five cylinder Tdi engine. Contrary to 
popular myth the five cylinder has been around for a while now and has 
been plopped into a 90. 

The CB 40 will fill the lower lever sales niche of the Discovery and as a 
such the Discovery has to move upward to fill the vacuum caused by the 
Range Rovers demise.

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

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