Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 08:27:42 -0400
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: Starting with Lucas ( 4cyl and 6 cyl. helpful hints?)

Jeremy Bartlett wrote:
> As odds would have it (or maybe not considering the manufacturer) I've
> been having a bit of problem with the starting circuit on my '65 109
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> wiring so I don't how useful this info. is).
> Is it possible to short out a motor during installation???

My limited understanding of these things is that if the electric is working (ie horns 
and lights) and if the starter tests out fine outside the vehicle AND  if the starter 
switch is functional (completes a circuit when contacted) then the problem is either in 
the electric to the starter (bad wire to it) or the grounding is insufficient. (Usuallly 
the problem.) The ground has to be very good, often times requiring sanding the contact 
point to shiny metal (and frequently putting in a new non-rusty bolt for attaching).

Good Luck
Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 08:26:50 -0400
From: jim@kidd.com (jnk)
Subject: Florida Rover Rally/Engine

Hello everyone,

Just a reminder that the Florida Suwannee River Valley Land Rover Rally is
still on for April 19-21. If anyone that wanted directions and I failed to
mail them, and others who are interested, please call me at 904-222-9364.

Yesterday saw the completion of my 1960 SII engine rebuild. After much
waiting for parts and and aggrivation we finally bolted everything up and
were ready for the startup. "OK son, turn her over!", pops says. Haraump,
Harump (with small puffs of electrical smoke coming from the engine
compartment) says my engine. My dad starts waving his arms telling me to
turn it off. We look at the engine and wonder what's up. "Try it again",
Dad says. This goes on until we realize that the oil pressure guage line is
smoking. We couldn't figure out why. Then we realized that the engine
wasn't grounded to the battery and it was trying to ground through the oil
pressure line. Whoops...

With the funny smoke fixed we now attempt to start again. This time the
starter spins like crazy, but there is no fire. We have had problems with
timing in the past, and thought the curse was continuing. After a couple of
sputters and a huge backfire (that scared the piss out of my dad's retired
friend who was observing our tinkering) we stopped to take a look. "It's
timing, it's got to be", says dad. He starts looking at the distributor and
fooloing around. He's checking the wires on the spark plugs, and as he
reads them in order 3,1,4,2, he stops and looks at me and says, "what does
the firing order on the manifold say." "Ummm, 1,3,4,2.", I reply. "Ah
Shitttt", says Dad. Varoommm on the next try.

Happy Again (except now the clutch is out of adjustment and I couldn't
drive it yesterday)

Jim Karantinos
Tallahassee, Fl

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Brown Goop
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 09:29:00 DST

Due to an unplanned detour from the chosen path yesterday, Miss Golightly 
ingested not a minor quantity of water into the sump. (she fell into a four 
foot deep hole left by either agricultural equipment or mud pluggin wallies) 
On returning home I immediately drained the sump and now wonder what is the 
best approach to flush the remaining goop from the engine. Thought maybe 
running for a few minutes with soluble oil to absorb the remaining water 
then change to regular light oil 5W/20 for a short time then back to regular 
20W50. Any suggestions?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 10:12 EDT
From: rsj@ny.ox.com (Rick Jaffe)
Subject: junk e-mail

Last week I received junk e-mail which addressed me as a Land Rover
owner.  The source of this garbage e-mail, which is polluting my
Internet, can only have come from distribution of the LRO-Digest
mailing list.

I'll unsubscribe after I see what other readers think about LRO-Digest
aiding net pollution.

Richard Jaffe

USMail:   OTA Limited Partnership, 1 Manhattanville Rd., Purchase, NY 10577
Phone:	  +1 914 694-5800 x230	FAX:	+1 914 694-5831
Internet: rsj@ox.com

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 09:25:51 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: junk e-mail

 Richard Jaffe writes:

> Last week I received junk e-mail which addressed me as a Land Rover
> owner.  The source of this garbage e-mail, which is polluting my
> Internet, can only have come from distribution of the LRO-Digest
> mailing list.
-
Actually, if you're a subscriber (maybe even if you're not) you can 
send a "who" command to the major and get the e-mail addresses of the 
subscribers. I suspect that's what they did. I emailed them back 
their message (twice, because I got one from lro & one from rro) and told them 
that it was not appropriate.
There's a command you can use to keep yourself from being listed in 
the "who". I forget what it is, but send "help" to the major and it 
should tell you.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Ketil Kirkerud <ketilk@a.sn.no>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 16:26:21 +0200
Subject: Re: junk e-mail

(Working, among other things, as postmaster for one of Norway's 
largest ISPs, I feel I have to delurk on this one)

[Richard Jaffe]

> Last week I received junk e-mail which addressed me as a Land Rover
> owner. 

Can't say I remember I did. But then, I receive > 100 messages a day,
so a lot of them are read _very_ quickly.

> The source of this garbage e-mail, which is polluting my
> Internet, can only have come from distribution of the LRO-Digest
> mailing list.

Are you _really_ sure about this ? To me, this is an accusation you should
be a bit careful to broadcast like this, especially without any substantiation.
> I'll unsubscribe after I see what other readers think about LRO-Digest
> aiding net pollution.
> mailing list.

If this is the case, it's deplorable. However, I'd be _very_ surprised to 
find that it is. 

---Ketil Kirkerud, 1979 109"SW("Lillebil"), NLRK Member, my opinions are mine.

------------------------------

From: ROSS & KAY FAIRCLOUGH <fax.rescue@hunterlink.net.au>
Subject: Bezel hunt
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 00:34:24 +-1000

>A brass bezel complete with all locking lugs and black and blue paint can be
>winging its way to you tomorrow 

Thanks Alan - yes please...I need your address or phone number.

>PS What is the chassis number of your little beast.

Plates say Chassis 24305514b, Contract C111350   3/64
The 1st edition workshop manual lists commencing numbers
for RHD CKD 88" as 24300001 A. Why does Castrol have "b"
Sounds like you would have more info on 11a Aussie army
designations like 'command reconnaisance' and telltale fittings?
Castrol has a bolt on cross member under the 'box, twin tanks,
centre toolbox, taller spring hangers. The front parkers + blinkers
are horizontal not vertical. Were the 7.50 16s used in service or
are they non original. 

There is one other swb Ex Army locally looking pretty sorry. It 
has it's name painted on the rear.."Little Black Duck" as in
"Not this L.B.D..". I last saw it near Ted Hayes' Workshop.
He still has his 11a regular Soft top. Who is Ted Hayes? 
(Clue: "1966".)
...........................................
"Castrol" '64 Ex-Army 11a 88 Regular.      
All claims for driveway stains to
Mssrs Smudge, Leeks and Scrubbit
Po Box 814 Charlestown NSW 2290 
...........................................

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@biddeford.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 10:43:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Cheap Rustproofing/Galvanic corrosion

On 14 Apr 96 at 9:19, John Cassidy wrote:

> Subject:       Cheap Rustproofing

> Regarding the use of oil and diesel;  My mechanic told me to cut the oil
> with only enough diesel to make it spray a little easier and no more.  I'm
> going to use chain saw oil for my job and a hand sprayer.

I use an undercoating sprayer kit which I got from JC Whitney ($36.99) to spray oil 
on my frame.  It comes with a variety of wands and tips to get to all the 
nooks and runs on compressed air.  I don't use the chemicals the kit is 
intended for but a combination of whatever I drain from the various oily 
boxes of the Rover and other cars  during normal maintenance.  It doesn't 
take much. I will follow the advice not to use engine oil in the future, 
but truthfully I haven't seen much problem with its use up to now.  Other 
than the mess it makes when doing it and the inconvenience of working with 
oil and dirt covered parts of the undercarriage, it seems to have done a 
great job preserving the frame of my thirty year old 88, which still looks 
pretty good when you scrape away the buildup, and spent it's life on 
heavily salted roads.
  I have talked to people who knew the (now deceased) owner of my vehicle and they say it
 was a twice a year ritual for 25 years for him to to run the car up a bank and spray it.

For Jakob Christensen, thanks for the information on Galvanic corrosion, 
especially about Stainless steel and aluminum not being a good combination 
which isn't what I would have expected but makes sense now.  I wonder how 
many people use SS fasteners thinking it will end the rusty bolt problems 
only to find it aggravates the body panel deterioration.  
I didn't understand your reference to forced voltage though.  A difference 
in terminology I guess.  Do you mean the electronic anti-rust device which 
was discussed earlier?

Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 09:52:02 -0500
Subject: Frame Replacement Log, week 14

Its beginning to look like my Rover again!

The weather isn't helping, of course. I've looked back through the
logs, and it seems like the weather has been pretty much the same back   
all the way into february- highs in the 30s and 40s, mostly. A few day   
warmer, some colder. I don't think we're ever going to break out of   
winter...

The main part of the week was dominated by fitting all new brake
lines, I spent three evenings doing that, including the time spent at
sears browsing and buying brake tools...

Other evenings were spent prepping the tub to be moved. I hit the
local wal-mart and bought a nine dollar pair of rubber mud flaps,
which gave their lives to become new tub pads. I also stopped by a
surplus store and bought a bunch of rubber disks, sheets and pad,
enough to do a fleet of Rovers for $5. These became insulators for as
many steel to aluminum joints as I could find. All the rear tabs got a
rubber insulator, the two mid tabs, and the seat-box mounts.

These I added before the tub by rubber cementing the rubber sheets in
place, then cutting holes as necessary.

Then it was time to lift the tub. Three of us were able to get it off
the old frame easily enough. We laid it down, and began to do some
minor repairs. Rivets had popped on two of the ribs, so those were
replaced. Eventually, all the ribs and the floor of the tub will need
to be replaced, as the ribs were pretty rusty and the floor corroding
at all the attachment points.

Next, it was the rear where the tabs mount. A PO had replaced the
standard rear cross member with a piece of steel with essentially a
full length tab along the back, and drilled a few new holes to bolt it
in place. While the outside was painted, the inside of this tab (that
faced the aluminum) was untreated, and corrosion was running rampant.
I had a new white stripe on the back of the tub!

To repair the damage, give it new strength, and make it look better, a
helper and I pop-riveted a new piece of anodized aluminum bar, 1 inch
wide and 1/8 inch thick, along the whole length of the back of the
tub. I bought 8 feet of bar, and with the remaining length, I cut four
small "sandwiches" of aluminum as backing plates for the areas around
the worst tab mounting holes.

6 of us moved the tub back into place on the new frame - four to hold
it and two spotting the position. It dropped right into place with
minimal effort.

I spent $17 on new stainless steel hardware to remount the tub.
Between the heads of every bolt or nut that met aluminum was insulated
with a fiber washer (not cheap at 10 cents each, but stronger than
rubber). Mostly I wanted the stainless for the rear tabs so they
wouldn't show rust (ok, I *am* vain, but I don't care). I drilled out
the holes in the new aluminum strip after the tub was in place to
insure alignment. On the inside I put the smaller aluminum sandwiches,
a fiber washer, and then the nut.

Actually, now that its all in place, the new strip of aluminum looks
pretty sharp.

After that, I had the few helpers that were still around get in the
back of the tub to compress the springs enough to get the rear shocks
on (the new check straps still won't reach, which kind of surprised
me...)

Then I mounted the gas tank again - I decided it was easier to work
the tub with the tank off and so dropped it again before putting the
tub on.

Hopefully, the bulkhead will be ready on Wednesday, and the wiring
will commence. In the meantime, I plan to get the master brake
cylinder rebuilt.

The body outrigger on the driver side of the old frame broke off
after we got the tub off - a friend leaned on it and it popped
right off...  :-/

Hopefully getting into the home stretch now.

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 17:04:28 +0100
From: helmuth.guss@balu.kfunigraz.ac.at (Helmuth Guss)
Subject: Land Rover Trial

On 1. and 2. of June there is a Land Rover Trial in Austria
 Voitsberg-Zangtal, near Graz.
it will be organised by an Austrian Land Rover fanatic.
for contac see his address below

Wagner Horst
Pichling 214
8510 Stainz
Austria
fax: 03463 4758
Helmuth Guss
Hauptstr.18
8435 Wagna
03452 82437
Austria

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Re: Moving to UK Questions
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 16:41:47 UNDEFINED

>>>    50 hertz 220 volts?
>>Yup.
>Nope!!!!
>50 Hertz 240 volts.Motors wound for 220 wont last long.

I thought they had recently lowered the mains to 220 to comply with another 
bloody silly Eurostandard?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 13:35:49 -0400
From: ac443@osfn.rhilinet.gov (John Karlsson)
Subject: Gauze filter....

One source of wire cloth is:
 
	Gilson Company, Inc.
	P.O. Box 677
	Worthington, Ohio 43085-0677
	USA
	(800) 444-1508
	(614) 548-7298
	FAX (614) 548-5314
 
They offer "Testing Grade Wire Cloth" in stainless steel or brass.  Mesh in
microns (1 micron = 1/1000mm) ranges from 20 - 150 or larger in the "fine
series."  I called and priced a middle-of-the-road mesh size (63 micron),
which sells for US$37.50 in brass, $41.20 in stainless, priced per square
foot.  Minimum order is $20.00.  
 
To add to my very slow Progress Report series on the restoration of my 88"
IIA, yesterday I finished reassembling my gearbox/transfer case with its new
seals and bearings.  This is the one from my parts car, and all components
showed very little wear, although the seals were rock hard.  I don't know
anything about the history of this car, but I'm curious to compare it with my
other one (250,000 miles) when I tear that one down.
 
John Karlsson
Hope Valley, RI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 16:45:04 -0500
From: Fred Ellsworth <fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com>
Subject: Popping out of gear

Thanks to everyone who forwarded me info on adjusting the swivel pins- I
did it this weekend and it was even easier than described.  Removing a
single, admittedly thick, shim out of 8 or so solved my steering shimmy
completely.  Only took a few minutes & now I feel stoopid for putting up
with it so long...

Now on to another problem.  I had my transmission rebuilt at DAP about 10
months ago.  (I wasn't happy with the work but that's a whole different
story.)  It never popped out of any gear before I had this done, but now it
is  popping out of 2nd, 3rd, and 4th with increasing frequency.  It happens
particularly when compression braking down hills in 2nd & 3rd and when
letting off the gas on the freeway, as when cresting a hill, in 4th.

I know this was discussed awhile back (maybe even by me) but I can't find
my files on it anywhere.  Does anyone know what the problem could be and is
it an easy fix as well (asked with fingers crossed and breath held).  I
have a spare transmission of dubious functionality if that helps.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions,

Fred Ellsworth
fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com
(617) 441-2113

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 19:29:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall Thomas)
Subject: Parts Web Site

I seem to remenber a web site that had part #s for aftermarket series 
stuff like shocks, etc.  Just searched all my bookmarks and have come up 
dry.  Was I dreaming?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 09:27:22 +0900
From: Alan Logue <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: junk e-mail

I have never had any junk E Mail from the list. I may have been "off line"
for a day or two over easter, but I've never got any.

It may be worth remembering that with technology moving the way it is, its
quite possible for other companies to find that you purchased parts for a
Land Rover and then send you related mail. I'd want to be very sure that the
details came from the Major before jumping in.
Alan Logue
EXARMY109FFRMP

At 10:12 15/4/96 EDT, you wrote:
>Last week I received junk e-mail which addressed me as a Land Rover
>owner.  The source of this garbage e-mail, which is polluting my
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
>USMail:   OTA Limited Partnership, 1 Manhattanville Rd., Purchase, NY 10577
>Phone:	  +1 914 694-5800 x230	FAX:	+1 914 694-5831
>Internet: rsj@ox.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 20:09:22 -0400
From: michelbe@login.net (Michel)
Subject: windows LR screensaver

Hello, everyone, just a note to let you know that the Windows LR Screensaver
is available at the Land Rover web-site (http://www.LandRover.com).

It's identical to the description we had a few days ago of the screensaver
for the Mac. Not very original, but not as boring as the flying windows...

Salut!
Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada
             ______________________ 
 >>>>>>>>>>>|__________|| ()|______| 1963 IIA 109 PU (top is off) (Rudolph)
            |          ||---|  /\ |  and friends (109 SW + 88 sw) (not shown) 
            |__________||---|_ \/_| 
 >>>>>>>>>>>|__________||___|______|
                                             

------------------------------

From: "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net>
Subject: RE: Unimog
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 17:16:19 -0700

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB2AEF.701204C0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

YOU SHOULD GET ON THE UNIMOG MAILING LIST, THERE ADDRESS IS ON THERE =
HOME PAGE OR YOU CAN E-MAIL THEM AT cs@crl.com AND ASK TO BE PUT ON THE =
LIST.

----------
From: 	John Cassidy[SMTP:rovahArovah.sdi.agate.net@agate.net]
Sent: 	Sunday, April 14, 1996 2:20 AM
Subject: 	Unimog

Clinton,
      If you find out the price on the Unimog and any more particulars,
please pass them along to me(or the list in general).  I've always =
wanted
to own one of those beasts(or a 101 FC).

Best Regards!  John Cassidy   Bangor, Maine

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB2AEF.701204C0
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
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=

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB2AEF.701204C0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 17:44:56 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Parts Web Site

At 07:29 PM 4/15/96 -0400, Randall Thomas <rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net> wrote:
>I seem to remenber a web site that had part #s for aftermarket series 
>stuff like shocks, etc.  Just searched all my bookmarks and have come up 
>dry.  Was I dreaming?

 Yup!  ...dreaming of Mike Hoskins' list on Rumpole's Web page (see below),
 which also has links to the OVLR and RoverWeb sites for additional lists.

 Cheers,

                         ______
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                    Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900            [________]               Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88")
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Junk Mail
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 10:29:57 +0930 (CST)

Rick has complained about the list aiding junk mail:

As Alan has mentioned any subscriber can obtain a a list of all other 
subscribers (good thing too IMHO)

So "junk mail" posters can get your address that way.

Or you may have been unfortunate enough to post an article to the list 
which has ended up on one of the web site archives, which can be found by 
search engines looking for landrover.

As no one else seems to have recieved any junk mail recently i suspect 
that the mail was addressed to you personally and not forwarded through 
the major.   

Why not ask the company concerned how they got your address ???

I'm listed on a few web sites, and have articles in some of the archives, 
i guess i have recieved 5 or so personal "junk mail" messages so far this 
year, offering things as diverse as custom tyre covers, through to direct 
imports of TDi landrovers.  None of these have anything to do with the 
major.

Unfortunately Junk E-mail is just like junk snail-mail, If you have a 
post box you will get some.  Un-subscribing from LRO may help cut down 
the amount of Land-rover related junk mail, but I believe that a 
little junk mail is small price to pay for the benefits of the list....

cheers
 -- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 21:31:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: John Antram <rewt@sover.net>
Subject: SIII spedos

	Hi all - recently there was talk of shimming-to-fix series spedo 
troubles - I was wondering how much and of what people are using to shim 
the cables? I've spent a good while trying to get it tight enough, and it 
just doesn't seem to be enough. Thanks!

John Antram	rewt@sover.net     RR 3 Box 888 Middlebury, VT  05753
Membership coordinator, "Green Mountain Rover Association"
1972 Land Rover Series III 88", sunrooves (badly improvised by PO), Red
1995 Land Rover Discovery, 5-speed, sunrooves, Roman Bronze
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300SDL, Anthracite Gray

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 22:00:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Gauze Filter in Fuel Tank Extension Pipe

When I was casting about for a replacement for the filter on the end of my
s3'spickup tube, I found a chain saw air filter at a hardware store. It was
so tightly woven that light wouldn't pass through except at certain angles. I
cut a piece and wrapped/soldered it to the end of the tube. Works fine. I
don't know if it would flow fast enough for the filler neck, tho.
John Dillingham Woodstock, GA

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 22:00:12 -0400
Subject: Re: A Bunch of Stuff

Steven Meier wrote on the seventh: "The excess that appears is easy to remove
the next day with a razor blade."
 What about the part of the stuff that *doesn't* appear? A lot of paper
gaskets are treated to seal (I don't know with what) and will seal if
installed between two clean surfaces, and properly torqued. I do use the
squeeze tube sealants, but sparingly. This seems to work for me. A holdover
from my VW days is that I still glue valve cover gaskets to valve covers. On
bugs, this keeps them from slipping (major leak) and a wipe with oil on the
head side keeps them from sticking. I have had oil 'track' through paper
gaskets, too, but never valve coversxyet. ;-)
 Another thing, RTV sealant has very few uses on my vehicles. I've pulled too
many strings of RTV out of oil pickup screens to trust it much, as a gasket,
and latex caulk is better for waterproofing wiring connectors, cause it
doesn't have acetic acid in it to attack copper wire.
My three standbys for treating paper gaskets, when I do, are Copper-Kote
(sp?) and permatex hardening and non hardening gasket sealer. Cheers!!
John Dillingham, Woodstock, GA 
73 s3 SWB
72 s3 SWB rusted parts truck, mostly picked over
66 s2a SWB soft top "Red Rover" being minded for friend/customer 
Vintage Rover Service
"Since 1994, over half a dozen satisfied customers!"

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 22:00:50 -0400

detuned. (8:1 comp if I remember right) the 3500S had the scoops, not for
looks but because it needed them. 11:1 CR. I miss mine. Canadian car, tho,
and it eventually rusted through at the firewall and was unsafe. Too bad I
didn't save the scoops. :-) Cheers! John Dillingham Woodstock, GA

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 21:51:59 -0500
Subject: CB M.Cylinder Tear Down

Hi all,

Began the tear down & rebuild process of my brake master cylinder   
tonight. Ran into a snag - I couldn't get the large end cap off. I   
pleaded and cursed, but it wouldn't budge. I'd put a breaker bar on it,   
but I don't think that even my craftsman 1/2" drive ratchet could take   
it. Unfortunatly, I don't have a solid spanner large enough to fit...

Is this a reverse thread or something wierd like that? Seems silly to   
spend $20 on a 1 1/4" spanner for one damn bolt (but I suppose I've   
wasted more than $20 on other things with *nothing* to show for it...).

Ok, there is one seal in there that I wanted to replace. Whats the best   
way to test that seal? What I did was put the piston & spring back in,   
and put two fingers over the holes. With the other hand, I pushed down on   
the piston. I got a good seal like this and could feel pressure on both   
fingers. Then, I released the finger covering the resivoir inlet, and   
heard a slight gurgling. That seemed like bad news. I would think that   
would mean blow by the seal and back pressuring into the resivoir, even   
though I still had some pressure under my finger. (The other seals seemed   
to be in decent shape, not leaking out the push rod or anything that I   
could tell, although I *did* find a puddle of brake fluid on the floor of   
the truck one time, but that might have been from my super corroded   
clutch cylinder...)

My problem is that I'm not sure what is normal. Given english engineering   
of seals, I guess I might expect some blow-by. Or, am I looking at the   
cause of my three pump, super mushy brake problem that really started all   
this? At this point, I'm tempted to put the cylinder back together and   
hope (pray) for the best.

Thanks,

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 23:33:14 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Starting with Lucas ( 4cyl and 6 cyl. helpful hints?)

Jeremy asks about starters...

>The '67 6cyl problem:
>The starter (2 actually) tests fine outside the vehicle.  When installed 
>they do not work at all - no noise - nothing.

-

I don't have a wiring diagram for the 6cyl, so my first question would have
to be - does it use a manually operated starter switch (like your '65) or
does it use a starter solonoid? Nate Dunsmore mentioned about making sure
the starter has good electrical connections, I would second that motion.
Also, have your friend check out the heavy cables to the starter switch (or
solonoid) and to the starter for continuity. Now, you have already
discovered  that you could have a bad starter manual switch. 

It is also possible to have a bad solonoid (if so equipped). The solonoid is
easy to check out - it should *click* when the key is turned to "start". If
it doesn't, check for voltage at the small wire which is connected to the
solonoid. (This wire should be on a push-on connector with no other wires
connected at the same point.) When the key is turned to start, you should
have voltage there. If you do have voltage, then the solonoid is probably
bad. If you do not have any voltage, then the problem lies elsewhere - maybe
a bad ignigtion switch or a wire off. That will be a bit harder to trace
down. If you find that the solonoid is bad, you can always use a generic
Ford type to get it all running and replace that with a Lucas solonoid later on.

>Is it possible to short out a motor during installation???
-

Well... if you were to short out the heavy cable that attaches to the
starter, you would find that the cable would get *very* hot when you tried
to start the truck. Probably with the usual assortment of smoke and bad smells.

>The '65 4cyl. "problem" (or comments):
-

Lucas the Price of Darkness, strikes yet again!

>Do SIII starters drop right into SIIA's? :(
-

You can drop then right into the back of the truck, on the front floor and
the tool locker (if it isn't filled with other stuff)...

Oh, you want to use the SerIII starter in place of the IIa..
Yup. Should fit.
I think.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 00:22:22 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: SIII spedos

John Antram suffers delusions from the Vermont winters...

>	Hi all - recently there was talk of shimming-to-fix series spedo 
>troubles - I was wondering how much and of what people are using to shim 
>the cables? I've spent a good while trying to get it tight enough, and it 
>just doesn't seem to be enough. Thanks!
-

No John... The shims aren't for the cable. There are shims between the
transfer box case and the speedometer drive housing. The "housing" is the
part between the transfer box and the backing plate for the transmission brake. 

The shims are used to set the bearing pre-load in the transfer case. If you
are having problems with a shaky speedometer, this adjustment might be part
of the problem. However, the popular fix for this is tightening the
castelated nut that holds the rear drive flange. You will have to drop the
front of the rear drive shaft (prop shaft) to get to this nut. 

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 27 lines 1655 [forwarded 77 whitespace 281]
 Output: lines 992 [content 597  forwarded 50 (cut  27) whitespace 266]


    Back
	
    Forward
	


	
    
          
	



Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.