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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 07:48:59 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: Questions?

Arthur,

> problems locating a decent one here in the San Francisco bay area.  His interest
> has been piqued by adverts in LRO from Turner engineering in England.  We were
> wondering if anyone could give us some information on them.  Has anyone bought
> an engine from them? if so, what was the quality like and was it difficult to
> import?

    A little under a year ago, I swapped out my original II engine in my
    1960 88 for a Turner Engineering unit.  I have been absolutely
    ecstatic with my purchase.  It's a whale of a lot of money, but the
    increased power, decreased fumes/leaks, and the knowledge that it's
    not going to give me problems like the old one kept doing have been
    worth it to me.

    I bought mine from Rovers North, and drove up there to help with the
    swap.  Apparently you can import them cheaper yourself than RN is
    selling them for, but consider:

    -- Their Restoration Discount Plan: without too many more purchases
    than the engine itself, you will be in the 20%-credit level.  You
    have to take it in parts, not cash, but you will probably need more
    parts for the beast someday, eh?  (I took mine as a new Overdrive,
    while I was up there!)  So this is an effective 20% drop in the
    stated cost of the Turner unit from RN.

    -- shipping/customs/etc: remember to add those on to the price
    listed in LRO.  RN's price is complete for it sitting in VT, and
    shipping to another US location will be cheaper than total shipping
    from England.

    -- Warranty claims:  If something *did* go wrong with the engine
    under the 12 month unlimited mileage warranty, you'd only have to
    deal with someone as far away as VT, instead of going all the way
    back to England.

    I don't want to sound like an ad for RN, but I have been extremely
    happy with my engine, and extremely happy with RN at every step of
    the process.  I do *all* of my own work on my vehicle, so it was
    difficult for me to decide to have them install it, but I am very
    happy I did.  They let me help (which may not be true for everyone,
    what with insurance regulations these days, but don't tell anyone
    OK?) which cut the time it took and thus the money I paid for labor. 
    (They were joking beforehand that me helping would increase the
    time, heh heh heh...)  Any little overlooked piece, any item that
    was discovered to need replacing only after the job was underway,
    etc: they were all sitting 30 seconds away on a shelf instead of 2
    days away by UPS with more shipping charges.  And of course getting
    to kibbitz with all those folks and see all the other neat vehicles
    there is a priceless experience (ahhh for the days of the RN
    rallies...)

    All of this may not help you if you're in California, but many of
    the same concepts could hold true if there's a more local LR parts
    dealer and service place near you.

    Duncan

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 07:12:02 -500
Subject: IIA Instrument Panel Layout

LRO,
I am interested in determinimg the layout of IIA gages/lamps.  I have 
a panel which looks all original.  There is a green "oil" lamp in the 
center.  If this a warning lamp, why is it not red?  There are two 
other lamps, one red and the other amber.  What are their functions?  
Also, the headlamp switch (integral with ignition key) letters are 
hard to make out.  What should the letters be and what do they mean?
There are two single pole pull switches with no markings.  What is 
the function of these switches?  What are the red and black buss 
contacts used for?  Thanks!  Mark

------------------------------

From: daviscar@cris.com
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 22:23:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Gauze Filter in Fuel Tank Extension Pipe

At 05:08 PM 4/10/96 -0400, you wrote:

On Tue, 9 Apr 1996, Larry Smith said:
When we have problems with torn screens on some of our Army vehicles and
spares are not available, we go to the local hardware store and buy bulk
aluminum screen used to repair storm doors/windows.  Be sure its aluminum,

  I have a funnel that has a water screen
in it, and it works great.  I don't know where to get the really fine mesh,
however.  Does anybody know a source??

Well My 88 had no screen on the down tube at all. So I when and got some of
the aluminum screen rolled it up fit it inside the tube  with some left
hanging out the end and folded over. this stops the big stuff the stuff that
passes through id stopped by the in line filter and the fuel bowl. this
system work well.

I don't know of any filter that will stop water completely but for the fine
mesh how about a medical supply or if you have some place like the
Scientific supply and surplus Here in Chicago area.

Bruce
67 SIIA Patches

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 09:23:59 -0400
From: GMA <calvin-gm@granite.mv.net>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 07:47:38 -0700
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: IIA Instrument Panel Layout

At  7:12 AM 4/13/96 -0500, Mark Gehlhausen wrote:
>LRO,
>I am interested in determinimg the layout of IIA gages/lamps.  I have
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>the function of these switches?  What are the red and black buss
>contacts used for?  Thanks!  Mark

Letsee.

The green lamp is oil pressure (comes on if oil pressure blow 7ish pounds)
The red lamp is generator (Comes on if battery discharging)
Amber light is choke (comes on when engine is warm enough to turn choke off)
Pull switch to the right ofspedomotor is instrument panel lamps.  I have
more switches and have reallocated some but I think the second switch was
for a dome lamp.

Headlamp switch
right = off
centre = parking lamps
left = headlamps

The red and black connectors on the instrument panel is a receptical for 12
V whatevers.  They are a non-US-standard bannan jacks.  You favorate ROVEr
after market parts house should have plugs.  You cut the lighter connector
off your 12V whatever and attach it to the specal plug & use it.

Take care

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com   <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS

Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 08:12:59 -0700
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: Semi-rover content 

About 3 months ago, I saw an 80" 1952 LR on the way to
the x-c skiing place.   Stopped and looked, but no one
was there.  I stopped by last Wednesday and talked to 
the owner.  It was all there and in surprisingly good,
if rather tatty condition :)   But someone from 
vancouver saw it a week before me and bought it
:(   Anyway, the owner also has a really nice
ex german military unimog from the 70s that he might
be willing to sell.  It has *everything* right down
to the original chains, jacks, load straps etc.
Anyone interested? It is in Kamloops, British
Columbia, Canada, North America.

Clinton now not looking forward to restoring a
S I

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

------------------------------

From: JDSalerno@aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 12:04:53 -0400
Subject: Gas tank leak

I was filling my son's gas tank at a filling station (USA) and not paying
attention.  It's a series III SW.  I over filled the tank and noticed gas
leaking from what appeared to be the top of the tank onto the ground.  Can
anyone help me identify the source of the leak. Is there a valve or vent
which would allow such a leak when a clutz over-fills the tank?  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 16:46:48 -0400
From: jeff@purpleshark.com (Jeffrey A. Berg)
Subject: Re: IIA Instrument Panel Layout

>The red and black connectors on the instrument panel is a receptical for 12
>V whatevers.  They are a non-US-standard bannan jacks.  You favorate ROVEr
>after market parts house should have plugs.  You cut the lighter connector
>off your 12V whatever and attach it to the specal plug & use it.

The cost for those "inspection light" connectors is obscene here in the
U.S.  so I just bought one of them and made a "cigarette lighter" adaptor
cable.  One of these days I'm probably going to wire up a couple of BNC
connectors from my auxillary fuse panel.  This will allow me to power a
LittleLite to use as a map light, as well as allow less expensive and
secure 12V connections.  If you're not authenticity minded, you might
consider replacing the stock inspection light connectors with the U.S.
standard style that can either accomodate bare wire on a threaded post or a
bannana plug.  Bananna plugs can be "stacked" to power multiple devices,
but I'd fuse the thing first!

RoverOn!

JAB

==                                                                 ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg         Purple Shark Media             Rowayton, CT
                        jeff@purpleshark.com
                                *****
Look what happens when you love someone, and they don't love you.
                                       --Warren Zevon, The Heartache
==                                                                 ==

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 13:57:38 -0400
From: michelbe@login.net (Michel)
Subject: Ser II to Ser III wiper conversion

Arthur asked: 

> I'm
>thinking about changing the wind shield wiper motors and have heard that the
>series 111 system works a little better and is easier to find replacement for.
>Has anyone done the conversion from 11a to 111 wiper motors?  if so what did it
>involve? and is there possibly a better alternative to all this?

Well, I have done it for Rudolph. It is fairly staightforward and requires
mostly all the bits and pieces related to the wiper of a Ser III, that is:

1) Wiper motor (Part no 606013)
2) Metal line to hold the driving cable from the motor to the wheelboxs for
wiper (Part nos 560966, 560886, and 575047)
3) Wheelboxes for wiper (the thing that protrudes the bulkhead and that has
a crown wheel attached to it that the driving cable turns) (Part no 560887)
4) Wiper motor switch (in dash-has two speed + washing fluid) -not necessary
but very convenient) (Don't have the Part no)
5) Dash cover. Piece of aluminum that hides the ugly motor in the dash.(Part
no 345079)
6) Some kind of bracket to hold the motor in place (Part no 560967)
7) Ser III Windshield (optional-see below)

First, you have to find a Ser III dash to measure proprely where you have to
drill the holes in the bulkhead. Then, drill the holes. Third, you have to
find a way to cut a 3in by 2 inch hole in the bulkhead (inside, on the top
part) in order for the cable to get from the motor to the wheelboxes via a
metal line that looks like a 1/4 inch brake-line . If you have the rubber
cover for the motor, it's the size you have to cut. Next, you have to drill
two holes on the back panel in the dash to be able to install the bracket
that secures the wiper motor. A few more holes to fasten the cover plate,
install the wires from the motor to the dash. Put some light grease or some
kind of oil-not to consistant- on the cable and install the wheelboxes on
the dash (fairly easy once the holes are done). If you put the RH wheelbox
upside down, you will have wipers like this: / \ while if you put both on
the same side, you will have wipers like this: / /. Depending on what you
prefer, do as you wish. 

Now, the only problem is that you have two holes in your windscreen. If you
keep the same windscreen, you have to put two plugs. If not, the Ser III
windscreen doesn't have any holes. I had a Ser III winndscreen kicking about
so I installed it. 

Everything should work, if I have forgotten something, I hope that somebody
on the list will be able to correct me. 

Basically, you want to find a Late Ser IIA (1968-1971) wiper motor kit which
you will have all the correct parts available. 

I think that it's worth it if you don't have to buy any parts in order to do
the conversion. E-mail me if you have any questions. I'll try to help you as
good as I can.

Salut!

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada
             ______________________ 
 >>>>>>>>>>>|__________|| ()|______|    1963 IIA 109 PU (top is off) (Rudolph)
            |          ||---|  /\ |     and friends (109 SW + 88 sw) (not shown)
            |__________||---|_ \/_| 
 >>>>>>>>>>>|__________||___|______|
                                             

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 22:52:19 +0000
From: rnewell@dircon.co.uk (Russell Newell)
Subject: SIII 2.25 fuel consumption?

can anyone tell me what kind of fuel consumption i can expect from my SIII,
2.25 109 petrol? at the moment it's about 12-14mpg.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 15:56:24 -0700
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@mail.comox.island.net>
Subject: Re: Gas tank leak

> I was filling my son's gas tank... I over filled the tank and noticed 
>gas leaking from what appeared to be the top of the tank onto the 
>ground.  Can anyone help me identify the source of the leak.

You might check the flexible filler hose itself (old cracked etc.) or the 
clamp holding it to the tank.

Cheers, Greg
'70 SWB project
'71 SWB daily driver - w/ fresh gearbox :-)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 10:17:25 -0900
From: scholes@modemss.brisnet.org.au (David  R Scholes)
Subject: Cheap Rustproofing

Seeing as how everyone on this list is soooo helpful!!! Can anyone tell me
whether a mix mix of kerosene and old oil (from the sump, diff,
transmission, etc) sprayed on the chassis of my 1978 SIII is the best way
of protecting it? I do a fair bit of beach driving so I need to do
something. Any suggestions anyone?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 10:15:32 +0900
From: Alan Logue <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: Cheap Rustproofing

The best thing I've found that is available locally are spray cans of
"Fishoil" made by Wattyl and available from hardware stores all over Aussie
- its the same mob that make Killrust paint. Drill some extra drain holes in
the bottom and side of the chassis (about 1/2" to 3/4") and stick the hose
in and wash it out completely. Let it dry, and then spray heaps of the
stinking stuff into the inside of the chassis. It smells like its name for a
few days, but it actually gets into any rust that may already be there and
puts a very good protective film on the inside of the chassis. You can also
buy it in normal cans to paint onto the outside of anything, but you need to
paint it over later with normal paint.

Its the closest thing I've been able to find in Aus to the pommie Waxoil
stuff they keep talking about.

Alan Logue
EXARMYLWBFFRMP

At 10:17 14/4/96 -0900, you wrote:
>Seeing as how everyone on this list is soooo helpful!!! Can anyone tell me
>whether a mix mix of kerosene and old oil (from the sump, diff,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>of protecting it? I do a fair bit of beach driving so I need to do
>something. Any suggestions anyone?

------------------------------

Date: 13 Apr 96 22:12:58 EDT
From: Arthur Hurley <75750.1014@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Sorry

A thousand pardons...

The aformentioned Series 11 engine is located in Napa California.
I'll be sure to mention location from now on.

Arthur

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 12:01:29 +0900
From: Alan Logue <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Steering Relay units and other things

Saw some notes lately on filling the steering relay unit. Thought these
ideas may be of some use.

I had an early Series IIA with the filler plug in the top of the steering
relay shaft. It was still a pain to fill, so I put a grease nipple in the
hole in the place of the filler plug - it just screwed straight in.

It was then real easy to keep the unit filled with grease, and it made
everything feel "tighter".

I've now got a Series III and filling the unit is (was) a pain in the a***
until today.

I went to the local chemist (drugstore, medical center, apothecary) and was
given, yes given, a 50ml plastic syringe which is used to inject whatever
into whoever.

Anyway, took it home and fitted a piece of small tubing to the end and
inserted the tube into the hole from one of the filler bolts. It fitted
perfectly.

Removed another bolt from the top to let the air out (this is a real pain
and time user) and then simply injected fresh EP90 into the Relay Unit. It
worked great, and I ended up doing a full "oil change" on the unit by
forcing out the old oil and grot and filling with the new.

You can't get a grease nipple into the newer ones unless someone makes a
nipple with a longer thread section to screw into the top of the unit. I'm
also not sure if the thing would foul on the steering relay unit anyway.

Having done that I adjusted the brakes and tried spraying some Lithium
Grease with Teflon - made by CRC in Australia between the spring leaves
while it was jacked up. I also loosed off the u Bolt nuts and let the spring
packs open up a little. Sprayed this stuff between all the leaves and
tightened it all up again. Have just been for a ride and boy does it make a
difference.

Dont know if you can get an equivalent overseas but you should be able to
get something.

The whole exercise above took just over 2 hours

Alan
Adelaide
EXARMY109FFRMP

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 22:57:23 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Cheap Rustproofing

>Seeing as how everyone on this list is soooo helpful!!! Can anyone tell me
>whether a mix mix of kerosene and old oil (from the sump, diff,
>transmission, etc) sprayed on the chassis of my 1978 SIII is the best way
>of protecting it? I do a fair bit of beach driving so I need to do
>something. Any suggestions anyone?
-

Old 90Wt cut with a bit of kerosene or diesel works fine (you need the
kerosene to thin the mixture out enough to spray it). Use a pressure washer
and hose out the inside of the frame. Then spray it down with the 90Wt mix.
(Don't do this anywhere where the resulting oil stains will be a problem.)

DO NOT use old engine oil. There are by-products of combustion in it which
can cause corrosion.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 22:57:21 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Gas tank leak

>I was filling my son's gas tank at a filling station (USA) and not paying
>attention.  It's a series III SW.  I over filled the tank and noticed gas
>leaking from what appeared to be the top of the tank onto the ground.  Can
-

There are three cork gaskets on the top of the US Spec SerIII fuel tank.
1. Fuel guage sender.
2. Fuel line pick up.
3. Fuel tank vent (part of the emmissions controls).
        #2 and #3 use the same gasket.
The gaskets dry out with age and leak when you overfill. Replacements are
very cheap so replace them all. 

Another possibility is that the gaskets didn't leak at all and the fuel was
leaking where the filler hose or filler vent hose attaches. 

I would bet that it was the gaskets.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

From: ROSS & KAY FAIRCLOUGH <fax.rescue@hunterlink.net.au>
Subject: S11a odometers
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 17:02:42 +-1000

Help.."Castrol" is a genuine 88" 1964 Aussie Army canvas top and has =
been one of my dependants since 1990. Her major mod was a one of those =
remove-the-firewall-and-replace-with-a-hens-tooth-galvanised-firewall-reb=
uilds.As you go along you "need" new master cyls, rubbers, pedals, loom, =
slave etc because it is easy to do them..  Well at that time the =
odometer bezel and it's twin, the "guages" bezel were paint stripped =
since they were showing age scars... These 2 big dials seem to be on =
every S11 & S11a I've ever seen, working or not, painted black. Well one =
bezel was steel or tin, BUT the other one was brass or sim metal. I =
fitted them as they were thinking I would find another brass bezel from =
somewhere to match up. Well it been a while and I've had no luck: can =
anyone help. - a natural choice because the brass sets off the bare al =
switch/dash panel and surrounding "dash" or "activity centre" is all =
gal. Help please - has anyone got one. Will airfreight from anywhere. =
747 on standby.
...........................................
"Castrol" '64 Ex-Army 11a 88 Regular.     
All claims for driveway stains to
Mssrs Smudge, Leek and Scrubbit
Po Box 814 Charlestown NSW 2290
...........................................

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 17:24:53 +1000 (EST)
From: Thomas Cooper <q9620149@helios.usq.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Cheap Rustproofing

 On Sun, 14 Apr 1996, Alan Logue wrote:

> The best thing I've found that is available locally are spray cans of
> "Fishoil" made by Wattyl and available from hardware stores all over Aussie
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 27 lines)]
> 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 12 lines)]
> >of protecting it? I do a fair bit of beach driving so I need to do
> >something. Any suggestions anyone?
I've used the fish oil traeatment on various chassis bits ( I beleive the 
brand name is "fisoilene"). It certainly seems to stop surface ruts in 
its tracks. The only side effect is that all the cats in the 
neighbourhood can be seen sniffing around your car ! ( Seriously this 
does happen )

Tom Cooper SIIa 109 "Safari" Brisbane, Australia

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 05:54:53 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@mail.CandW.lc>
Subject: Re: Cheap Rustproofing

On Sun, 14 Apr 1996, scholes@modemss.brisnet.org.au (David  R Scholes) wrote:

I do a fair bit of beach driving so I need to do
>something. Any suggestions anyone?
>Living by the sea and trying to cut costs on rust prevention by using dirty old 

oil? You must be kidding! 
1. Don't use old sump oil as it is corrosive;
2. If you spray any oil underneath you will destroy your bushes;
3. Go for the real stuff.

------------------------------

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