[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | 2 | [not specified] | |
2 | Lodelane@aol.com | 21 | Re: Series vehicles over 40MPH |
3 | Eric Bartels [bartels@ma | 24 | MPG for a V8 ? |
4 | ericz@cloud9.net | 22 | Re: Road Sign Panel Repair Problem? |
5 | Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite. | 74 | Re: MPG for a V8 ? |
6 | 73363.427@CompuServe.COM | 44 | David Bobeck / Leak Down Testing |
7 | "Ron Franklin" [oldhaven | 26 | Gear swaps/OD/LT230 |
8 | kurzman@ix.netcom.com (D | 12 | Re: Heater intake dryer vent |
9 | Anthony Verriello [verri | 18 | I give up |
10 | "Mark Talbot" [Land_Rove | 31 | For Sale - 1964 109 Station Wagon |
11 | "Steven L. Meier" [1021 | 31 | I Stand Corrected + Steering Box + Scotty |
12 | velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk | 53 | Some words on galvanic corrosion |
13 | slade@sisna.com | 29 | Late IIA lighting q's |
14 | vandecar@nwlink.com (Van | 28 | Bonnet mounted wheel and shaking wheels |
15 | Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti | 26 | re: galvanic corrosion |
16 | Chris_Browne@US014-BOSTO | 16 | Re: I Stand Corrected + Steering Box + Scotty |
17 | PZavaletta@aol.com | 18 | RoverWeb FAQ URL Needed |
18 | ROB MODICA [rmodica@east | 63 | AZLRO Inaugural Road Trip |
19 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 23 | [not specified] |
20 | "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa | 23 | Re: sIII cylinder heads - final report |
21 | Michael Carradine [cs@cr | 21 | Re: RoverWeb FAQ URL Needed |
22 | Arthur Hurley [75750.101 | 14 | Series II engine for sale |
23 | "William L. Leacock" [75 | 16 | US Rover in UK |
24 | SPYDERS@aol.com | 24 | [not specified] |
25 | Michael Carradine [cs@cr | 19 | Re: Series II engine for sale |
26 | AKBLACKLEY@aol.com | 13 | Re: MOD Tools Size |
27 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 14 | "For Sale" INCLUDE LOCATION |
28 | Lodelane@aol.com | 46 | Re: US Rover in UK |
29 | landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mi | 39 | Re: Late IIA lighting q's |
30 | landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mi | 35 | Re: Spare Tire |
31 | SACME@aol.com | 37 | Spare Tire |
32 | Thomas Cooper [q9620149@ | 31 | Re: Tropical Roof Vents |
33 | Arthur Hurley [75750.101 | 25 | Questions? |
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From: Lodelane@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 07:26:44 -0400 Subject: Re: Series vehicles over 40MPH After I got thru replacing U-Joints, etc and overhauling the carb on my 2.25 petrol SWB, I locked out the front hubs and took it out for a "Test Drive" on I-295. On the down hill side of the James River bridge with the OD engaged, I got an indicated 87 mph before I got "concerned" about the slop in the steering and the swivel pins. On the flat going, I usually cruise at an indicated 60, but 70 is rather easy, but quite noisy. Sixty gets me where I want to go, without stressing the truck too much, and gives me ample time to think about life in general. 'til later, Larry Smith '72 SWB Petrol - Grover Chester, VA ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 12:42:05 +0100 (BST) From: Eric Bartels <bartels@maths.ox.ac.uk> Subject: MPG for a V8 ? Hello everybody, recently I was infected with the Land-Rover fever and I am currently thinking of buying one. I am now wondering about the fuel economy of the different engine types and models. I have an offer for a 109/Stage 1/V8 Safari at hand where the owner told me that I'd be happy to get 18 MPG out of it. Is this equally bad for the other engines or is the V8 especially thirsty ? What could I expect from an early 110 with a V8 ? Are the Defenders more economical than the Stage 1s ? And a side question: this Stage 1 has some freeplay in its steering (about 10-15 degrees) and the chap said the steering box would need to be replaced. Is that a major repair job? Any other point to look out for at a Stage 1? thanks a lot, Eric, Oxford ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ericz@cloud9.net Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 06:27:05 -0700 Subject: Re: Road Sign Panel Repair Problem? On Thu, 11 Apr 1996, "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil> wrote: >LRO, >I have seen notes about not using road signs for panel repair. Years [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >I find them very handy for all sorts of applications. What is the >problem with using such a sign? Mark Assuming you get these signs in the proper manner ;), I find nothing wrong with them. I built a custom center console out of a bunch of old street signs and some angle aluminum from the hardware store. Works great, lightweight and strong. The only problem is that the thickness/alloy of such a material does not lend well to bending. It has a tendency to crack. The price, however, is right. Regards, Eric ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au> Subject: Re: MPG for a V8 ? Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 23:04:22 +0930 (CST) Eric Bartels writes: > and models. I have an offer for a 109/Stage 1/V8 Safari at hand where the > owner told me that I'd be happy to get 18 MPG out of it. Assuming this is Miles/imperial gallon, I'd be *very* happy if my stage 1 got 18mpg. Maybe I should fix that motor.... 18 mpg seems to be about right for stage 1's a bit better on long runs say 20-22 (thats what the guy with the new motor tells me anyway :-( > Is this equally bad for the other engines or is the V8 especially thirsty ? Well the V8 is thirsty given its total power output, but not much worse, and often a lot better than other big petrol engined 4x4's (a good friend had a Toycar Landbruiser ute with the 4.2 petrol, he was happy to get 12mpg......) > What could I expect from an early 110 with a V8 ? Seem to be a little better by most reports, the CR jumped from 8.13 to 9.35, have heard reports around 18 - 22 mpg > Are the Defenders more economical than the Stage 1s ? Umm if we're talking V8's then not likely to be much better if we're talking tdi's... Just about twice as good as the V8.... (Hello John Hong come in please...) > And a side question: this Stage 1 has some freeplay in its steering > (about 10-15 degrees) and the chap said the steering box would need to be > replaced. You might get lucky and its only adjustment, but... > Is that a major repair job? Depends if the old one is rebuildable or if a new one must be found. Getting the box out is a frustrating but not overly difficult job. allow yourself plenty of time though, getting the drop arm off can sometimes seem an impossibility. Be careful buying parts for a stage 1 steering box before stripping it, mine had one of the optional low ratio boxes, It was totally shot (well i shouldnt have driven it for two years after I smashed the balls in the worm nut...) and I couldnt mix and match parts from the other box I had in pieces... > Any other point to look out for at a Stage 1? front Cv joint noises Gearbox, Transfer case and centre diff function. Due to the lack of front axle droop the stage 1 seems to be harder on the centre diff than the other full time 4x4 landrovers. Centre diff function is probably the big killer, make sure it locks, then unlocks and runs nice and freely. watch out for drive shaft vibrations, the front shaft on the stage 1 is unique, and expensive to repair :-(. Uumm typical series landrover stuff, like spring bushes, fuel tanks, excessive oil leaks... Hey be adventurous, go for the last of the real landrovers, get a stage 1. Those new coil-sprung, power-steer, disc-braked jobbies take all the fun out of it..... -- Daryl ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: 73363.427@CompuServe.COM Date: 12 Apr 96 09:34:16 EDT Subject: David Bobeck / Leak Down Testing I tried to send the below messages to David Bobeck but they both bounced, so I will post them to the list. I guess this time I will need to save AND backup. I guess this is information that I am just not supposed to have<g> --------------------------- Message One ------------------------------ Thanks David for the reply, I will be sure to save it this time. >> 2. Get the #1 Cylinder at TDC. Insert adapter, hook up air hose. The compression chamber will fill with air. << Is this correct, I seem to recall that the air pressure would force the cylinder down, so it was a good idea to have the cylinder all the way down. I don't really know how to check for that though... --------------------------- Message Two ------------------------------- David, No sooner had I sent you a message thanking you for the Test information, than I had a MASSIVE disk crash. My Seagate Barracuda is *toast*, a friend had a spare SCSI drive and I will probably be up all night rebuilding my system. I basically have everything up until yesterday, but I lost your message. If you could resend it I would appreciate it. ------------------- | | | | _ _ ____|____ _ _ | Rob Dennis O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O 73363.427@Compuserve.com \____===_=====_===____/ Atlanta, GA USA |oo |(_)###(_)| oo| (404) 875-4537 | | ### | | | | ####### | | 1972 SerIII 88 |_____|_#######_|_____| 1990 RangeRover [_______________________] EEEI EEEI Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com On 12-Apr-1996 ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@biddeford.com> Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 09:48:36 -0500 Subject: Gear swaps/OD/LT230 I am not all that familiar with the LT230 transfer case, though I do know they come in ratios which vary from 1.22 to 1 in the high HP vehicles to 1.66 to one in 4-cylinder 110's. My question is: Is there any way to get a 1 to 1 ratio gearset for the LT230, or failing that, is there an overdrive which will fit similar to the earlier Series t-case? ( Durability a consideration here) My reason for asking is that the low rpm diesel conversion I am doing has been complicated because I will be using a RR LT230 and axles instead of the Ford pieces I had decided on. (I couldn't resist!) The Ford 13-56 transfer case had a 1 to 1 high ratio and put the engine into a perfect range at 70 mph. The LT230 brings it up farther than I would like, though not uncomfortably so. (2400 rpm versus 2000 with 7.50-16 tires and a .75 overdrive transmission) For reasons of low range use and cost I would rather not use diff ratios numerically lower than the 3.54 stock numbers. Somebody out there must have wrestled with this one before, especially those of you across the pond who have been doing diesel conversions since Defenders and RR's first appeared. Thanks, Ron Franklin Bowdoin, Maine, USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 07:23:06 -0700 From: kurzman@ix.netcom.com (David S. Kurzman ) Subject: Re: Heater intake dryer vent Instead of using a dryer vent you could keep your L-R all Rover and use one of the hood scoops off of a North American P6B (I don't think the UK P6B's had scoops). I've seen a picture of this done and it looked nice. Also it only sticks out about an inch and a half so it shouldn't be too much off a problem out in the woods. Best, Dave in Va. 109 RHD military rag top ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Anthony Verriello <verriello_t@jpmorgan.com> Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 10:32:21 -0400 Subject: I give up I apologize in advance for any trouble that will be caused by my email address changing. I have tried sveral times to unsubscrive to the digest and have even sent mail to majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net. Today is my last day at my present company and I hope to resubscribe at my new place of business. Hope the rejections dont cause anyone too much grief, but I give up. Tony verriello_anthony@jpmorgan.com (at least for today) ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 15:30:02 UT From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com> Subject: For Sale - 1964 109 Station Wagon For Sale 1964 109 Station Wagon, Marine blue with Limestone top. What's been done. Rebuilt brakes, new cylinders, brakes lines, shoes, new master cylinder. Rebuilt rear hubs, seals and bearings. Rebuilt front hubs, new swivels, seals and bearings. New exhaust system and H/D rear springs. New shocks all round. Clutch rebuilt with new plate, master and slave cylinders replaced. New rear cross-member. Frame is in great shape, painted in black rust proofing paint. Replaced all window channels and doors seals, new interior panels and headliner. New 7.50 x 16 tyres on freshly blasted and painted limestone wheels. Re-sprayed in marine blue. Original paperwork and owners manual. Lots more done. This vehicle is in great shape. Offers around $12,000 Mark (603) 357-3401 ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 12 Apr 96 11:32:59 EDT From: "Steven L. Meier" <102141.3253@CompuServe.COM> Subject: I Stand Corrected + Steering Box + Scotty I stand corrected . . . having failed English 101, I have again failed to express myself correctly. I should have stated "yuppies who own plushmobiles", thus excluding those on this list and all others who are not "yuppies" owning RR's, Defenders and Disco's. Believe it or not I even know a few. I also stand corrected re. LRNA (BMW) after reading of the heritage information contained on their new web page. A very large apology to any and all I've offended . . . forgiven? Re. the question on steering box lube . . . if leaking a lot requiring frequent filling to keep up. If you don't care to rebuild the box (no small task) it is helpful to mix a brew of gear oil and grease to a rather thick consistency (paste) and use that in the steering box as lubrication. It will slow the leak considerably . . . just paste leaks out . . . and provide adequate lubrication since there are no high speed parts involved. A bit testy to get in . . . a pastry bag works well. Fill it up. Re. Chevy adaptors . . . contact Scotty in Concord . CA 1.510.676.4872 or 1.510.686.2255 . . . e-Mail is INTERNET:JHOWAT@aol.com Keep the "Romance" Alive . . . Steven L. Meier ROVERS YOU CAN RIDE . Santa Fe . New Mexico Specializing in Complete Frame Up Restorations Engine/Gearbox Conversions and other Options Available e-Mail 102141.3253@Compuserve.com 1.505.438.2475 FAX 1.505.989.7622 ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 18:07:54 -0600 (CST) Subject: Some words on galvanic corrosion Hi all. I have followed the thread on galvanic corrosion, and would like to say something about metallurgy. Galvanic corrosion is found where a less noble metal gives elektrons to a more noble metal beacuse of acidity or lack of oxygen in a moist slit between the two metals. The difference in nobility of the two metals (Potential Voltage) determines the grade of corrosion. If you force a voltage onto two metals you can either make the problem bigger or smaller. Better or worse wandering of electrons is determined by the polarity of the forced voltage. For an example the question whether galvanizing the frame is better or worse. Zinc protects steel, and between zinc and aluminium the potential voltage is smaller than between steel and aluminium. This results in less corrosion on frame and aluminium parts next to it. Another example is if you replace an ordinary steel part with one made from passive stainless steel, the aluminium parts next to will be corroded very fast because of a very high potential voltage. Problems like this can be solved with a layer of paint covering both parts where they possibly could get in contact with each other (physically or with a moisture bridge). The physical size (area) of two parts in a construction is also important, the anode/cathode relationship must be right. Examples: A copper rivet in an aluminium part is ok because the relationship is optimal. An aluminium rivet in a copper part is bad because the relationship will make the rivet corrode away in a short time. Summary: The amount of galvanic corrosion is determined by difference in nobility, Physical size, environment (moisture, salt etc.), forced voltage and surface treatment. Beware!! Never use forced voltage on a car, it's too difficult to control the polarity through the car. This will cause more corrosion some places and less other. Feel free to mail questions or for further information. Regards. Jakob Christensen ----------------------------------- Stine Henriksen / Jakob Christensen Borrowed account - 73 sIII 88" ----------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: slade@sisna.com Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 08:23:05 -0700 Subject: Late IIA lighting q's Hello all, I've got a 1970 Canadian spec late IIA 109 station wagon and I'm trying to sort out the lighting and make it accurate. As of now the parking lights are on with the headlights. With the switch in the middle position the parking lights are off as well as the headlights. Shouldn't the parking lights be on when the switch is in the middle position and off when the headlights are on? At least that's how it was with my '66 IIA. Also, does anyone have any good ideas of what 'other' parts can be used to put a rear wiper on the full door of my Station Wagon? Short of buying a 110 door I'm not sure how to go about this. Thanks, Michael Slade IIa 109 SW 1970 slade@sisna.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 09:37:43 -0700 From: vandecar@nwlink.com (Van Decar) Subject: Bonnet mounted wheel and shaking wheels My 94 D90 has a dealer installed bonnet mounted spare. After the thread a week or so ago, I looked the at the installation and found that the steel reinforcing pieces on the bottom side of the bonnet were not galvanized and starting to rust. The dealer correct the situation at their expenses, but only after a bit banner. They didn't want to at first because the parts were from Rovers North. After the thread about shaking wheels, I checked mine. (By the way, I believe the correct way to check the front is with the wheels on the ground, not hanging free. Never seen a vehicle that wasn't loose with the wheel hanging down). Anyway, when I shook the left rear, it moved in and out about a quarter inch or so. On the way to the dealer, the bearing went out. The dealer replaced not only bearing but the half shaft. They also tried to say that a quarter inch end play was normal. While driving across the U of T campus, I waved and beeped at a RR full girls, they looked but didn't wave, guess they thought... Chris Van Decar 94 D90 Slo-Mo VII <vandecar@nwlink.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 12:03:44 -0500 Subject: re: galvanic corrosion On the subject of pos vs. neg ground I'm not to sure. I'm finding *lots* of corrosion around all my aluminum to steel joints with positive ground. At some point, a new rear crossmember was fabricated with a lip extending the full length to replace the tabs to hold the body. I have corrosion all along this lip, and that hasn't been there the full 30 years (but a long time, nonetheless). Lots of corrosion around the seat box and tunnel cover, and on the wings. I guess I don't know if its better than 'typical', but I'd hate to think that if negative ground made it *worse* what the condition would be. To be safe, I'm trying to insulate all my steel to aluminum joints with thin rubber pad. I'll find out tomorrow how well things reassemble... Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Chris_Browne@US014-BOSTON-MINET.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM Date: 12 Apr 96 13:20:08 EDT Subject: Re: I Stand Corrected + Steering Box + Scotty Steve Meier says "Forgiven?" Yes, as penance you must wash the mud off the undercarriage of every Disco/rr you see for 30 days Your a Big guy mister! regards chris browne ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: PZavaletta@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 15:39:32 -0400 Subject: RoverWeb FAQ URL Needed On April 6, Ferenc-Jan van Zijp wrote: >>BTW the Roverweb-FAQ is GREAT. I've printed the how-to-buy-a-used-LR section and intend to go over it line by line when buying a used LR. Just what will the used-LR-seller think?<< Does anyone know the URL to this site? Thanks in advance, Peter M. Zavaletta, Esq. '95 RR County Classic, Alpine White (aka 'Winston') ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 12:44:02 MST From: ROB MODICA <rmodica@east.pima.edu> Subject: AZLRO Inaugural Road Trip To all AZLROs and any other interested LROs; Coming up in June: the Inaugural Arizona Land Rover Owners Not-a-Rally (aka Road Trip). James Howard of the Flagstaff "Puddle" has agreed to organize a road trip in Northern Arizona along the Perkinsville Road over the weekend of June 8th and 9th. From the "ghost" town of Jerome into the Prescott National Forest skirting the Woodchute Wilderness area to the hamlet of Perkinsville on the Verde River and then north through the Kaibab National Forest towards the city of Williams. This is approximately a 45 mile trip so it could include an overnight stay for those who wish. James and I both plan on camping overnight to do a little exploring. Dead Horse Ranch State Park is located across the river from Cottonwood AZ about five miles from Jerome and very close to Tuzigoot National Monument. This would be a good place to camp on Friday night before the trip. There are 45 campsites at 3300 feet elevation. Water and restrooms with showers are available. Fees in 1994 were $8 for sites with no hookup. If sufficient numbers of people are interested group reservations can be made to assure campsites and have a place to be in case of a spontaneous attack of Roveritis. DIRECTIONS to Dead Horse Ranch State Park. Fifty three miles south of Flagstaff on I-17 or ninety three miles north of Phoenix on I-17 to Arizona Highway 279. Head west towards Cotonwood. >From the junction of US 89A (Alternate) and Arizona Highways 260 and 279, drive six tenths of a mile northwest on UA 89A to milepost 353 in Cottonwood. Travel northwest on Main Street (toward Old Cottonwood and Clarkdale) for 1.8 miles. Main Street begins as South Main, then becomes North Main and finally turns into East Main as you near the park turnoff. Turn north onto North 10th Street and continue for four tenths of a mile to a concrete ford over the Verde River. The park is at the end of North 10th Street. There are signs directing you to the campground. We will meet at Dead Horse State Park at 8am on Saturday June 8th and take a little ride. DISCLAIMER Due to considerations of liability, etc., this just NOT an official rally of any sort, it just so happens that James and I and a few other Land Rover owners will probably all be driving around in northern Arizona in June. If anyone happens to see us and join along we'd be glad to have the company. For further information.contact : James Howard at <jhoward@argus.lowell.edu > or at (520)-526-8936 or Rob Modica at < rmodica@east.pima.edu > or at (520)-747-9299 Rob Modica '51 SI 80" '60 SII 109" Safari Tucson AZ "94 Disco 5spd "Casper" ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: RoverWeb FAQ URL Needed Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 12:48:42 -0700 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> In message <bulk.20043.19960412123820@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you wrote: > >>BTW the Roverweb-FAQ is GREAT. I've printed the how-to-buy-a-used-LR > section and intend to go over it line by line when buying a used LR. > Just what will the used-LR-seller think?<< > Does anyone know the URL to this site? http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/RoverWeb/ for the RoverWeb http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/FAQ.top.html for the Land Rover FAQ Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. He'd drive it up the Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..." --Kevin Archie ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 12:47:25 -0700 (PDT) From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us> Subject: Re: sIII cylinder heads - final report > From: Jens Vesterdahl <jve@phaseone.dk> > Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 08:43:02 > Subject: sIII cylinder heads - final report > Hi all. > Well, it's done. My reworked cylinder head is back in place and MAN - > what a difference. Now I can actually accelerate uphill in 4th gear! > Strange feeling, but I like it :-) A hill? In Denmark? Is this something that has just been constructed? Must be another one of those Scaninavian engineering marvels. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Walter C. Swain | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us * * Davis Community Network | 1988 Range Rover * * Davis, California | 1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 14:00:20 -0700 From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com> Subject: Re: RoverWeb FAQ URL Needed At 03:39 PM 4/12/96 -0400, Peter M. Zavaletta <PZavaletta@aol.com> wrote: >On April 6, Ferenc-Jan van Zijp wrote: >>>BTW the Roverweb-FAQ is GREAT. I've printed the how-to-buy-a-used-LR [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >Just what will the used-LR-seller think?<< >Does anyone know the URL to this site? You can there through a link on Rumpole's Rover page (see sig below) Cheers, ______ Michael Carradine [__[__\== Rumpole of the Bay 510-988-0900 [________] Land-Rover Roughmobile cs@crl.com __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^ '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88") _______________________________________________________________________ Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page: http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 12 Apr 96 17:06:43 EDT From: Arthur Hurley <75750.1014@CompuServe.COM> Subject: Series II engine for sale Dear all I'm doing this on behalf of my friend who doesn't have internet access. He is interested in selling his old 1961 series 11 2.25 petrol engine. One of the connecting rods is busted, but there are still some good components. Anyone interested or wanting more information can email me at 75750.1014@compuserve.com. Thanks ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 12 Apr 96 17:25:25 EDT From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@CompuServe.COM> Subject: US Rover in UK Chris Van DeCar asks about taking a US spec 90 to the UK As a visitor you are allowed to use a vehicle from any country for up to one year providing you have an International Plate ( ie USA) displayed. Be prepared for the high price of gas As a US serviceman I think you can get subsidised gas amongst other things on the base. It is also possible that as a serviceman you can use your US registered vehicle anyway, in teh vicinity of US bases in Europe I have seen a lot of US registered vehicles in use, even the old boats !! I suggest you check within the service for advise on overseas postings. Regards Bil Leacock Limey in exile ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SPYDERS@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 17:59:56 -0400 g. (US miles & US Gallons) Based on the last 15 tanks of gas on freeways: a "full as full can get" tank until the light comes on, 245-250 miles later uses16 x1 Gallons. So it looks like I'm getting 15-16 MPG. The tank *should* hold 20-21 (But I'm not Exactly sure how much) so theoretically I've got another 60 miles after the light. I think LR is either being very conservative by making the last 1/4 of the guage red and having the light come on then or maybe the accuracy just isn't there. The fuel usage is for a NAS D110 with the roof rack on top, 3.9L V8 and light cargo (100-150 lbs, excluding myself) I do try to get in other vehicles' wakes to increase the MPG. On longish freeway drives, while draughting a car/van/pick-up at 70mph, the MPG went up close to 23. : ) pat. 93 110 ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 15:00:09 -0700 From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com> Subject: Re: Series II engine for sale At 05:06 PM 4/12/96 EDT, Arthur Hurley <75750.1014@CompuServe.COM> wrote: >I'm doing this on behalf of my friend who doesn't have internet access. He is >interested in selling his old 1961 series 11 2.25 petrol engine. One of the >connecting rods is busted, but there are still some good components. Anyone >interested or wanting more information can email me at >75750.1014@compuserve.com. Geeeez, Art! Maybe you can tell us what part of the world you're in as a start, or shall we just assume you are in the center? -Michael Carradine cs@crl.com Walnut Creek, CA, USA <---location (30 min east of San Francisco) 510-988-0900 <---phone/fax ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 18:24:21 -0400 Subject: Re: MOD Tools Size Scott Bronson asks: They sound miniature. Are they even useful? Yes! They were meant to be mounted on the tailgate of the Series LR, the Lightweight, and also on the front of the FC101 so they are "compact". Are they as handy as full sized tools? No, but they are compact enough to stow easily. The pick is a hefty little job, and while I wouldnt want ot dig a ditch with it I can remenber a time ot two on the trail when I wish I had something better than the German entrenching tool I used to carry in the back of my Rangie. ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 19:22:10 -0400 Subject: "For Sale" INCLUDE LOCATION To anyone posting a "For Sale" note: Please include location, at least city (nearby if not in) and state/province. Otherwise messages are generated inquiring of the location. Phone numbers alone are not sufficient. Searching to find where an area code is located is frustrating, and new area codes keep popping up. Thanks. ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Lodelane@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 22:10:54 -0400 Subject: Re: US Rover in UK Bill & Chris, My experience is more than 10 years old, but here goes. As a service member, you are allowed to ship one US spec vehicle to your duty station. If you ship one, you will be allowed to return ship one vehicle to CONUS (Continental United States(yeah some d***n military acronymn)) on tour completion. You can buy subsidized fuel coupons thru the PX system in country of station. Ten plus years ago, it was about 1/4 the rate the average German was paying at the pump. Know exchange rates change and Status of Forces Agreements change, so you might want to check ahead with one of your mates currently assigned. These coupons are rationed by vehicle size/weight and "book" consumption (not sure who does the book). If you use your ration, you have to queue up like everyone else and pay full pump price. Should you want to travel to the continent, you can arrange to buy a limited amount of coupons for the countries you will travel in. As no lead is now available in the UK and Europe, you will not have to remove the catalytic converter and save for reinstallation on your return to the States. (Big pain and a DEFINITE EPA/Customs rejection). You will have to buy masking kits for your headlights or convert to UK standard cutouts for the low beams (both available at the PX gas stations - don't go anywhere else!!). Not sure on required safety equipment. In Germany, you were required by law to have a DIN standard first aid kit and warning triangle. You will probably have to pass an in country driver's license test to include International Road Signs. Triple A International Drivers' License does not count. This is a SOFA requirement for specific countries. Other than learning how to drive on the "wrong" side (watch out for round abouts - nearly nailed a police cruiser with its lights and siren going - I was trying to yield the roundabout by going to the wrong side) and clearing the lane to overtake (pass), you shouldn't have any problems. Not sure on the status now, but all bases used to have Auto Craft Shops that most people would kill to have access to - pits, lifts, welding machines, tools, etc. Again, my facts are dated, but may give you a point to start from. May want to call AAFES in Dallas or USAFE in Germany for an update. 'til later, Larry Smith '72 SWB Petrol - Grover Chester, VA ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 23:06:41 -0400 From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice) Subject: Re: Late IIA lighting q's Michael Slade asks about lights.... >I've got a 1970 Canadian spec late IIA 109 station wagon and I'm trying to sort out the lighting and make it accurate. As of now the parking lights are on with the headlights. With the switch in the middle position the parking lights are off as well as the headlights. Shouldn't the parking lights be on when the switch is in the middle >position and off when the headlights are on? Early to mid 1960's US specs (and maybe Canadian as well) required that the parking lights turn off when the headlights were on. That was not required everywhere else however. I believe the wiring change involved only changing the position of a connection on the light switch. I think that by 1970 the regulations required having the parking lights on with the headlights. Your 1970 IIa probably has the toggle-type of switch, right? It sounds as if maybe a PO had the dash apart at some point and got the wires mixed up. The center position should turn on the parking lights. You may want to check out the switch with a meter and determine what contacts work in what positions. >Also, does anyone have any good ideas of what 'other' parts can be used to >put a rear wiper on the full door of my Station Wagon? Short of buying a >110 door I'm not sure how to go about this. - Try a boating supply place. Windshield wiper kits are available to add wipers to a boat windshield. Some are designed to move through a 90 deg arc. Cheers Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 23:06:38 -0400 From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice) Subject: Re: Spare Tire Someone wrote..... >I recently bought a '73 SIII that has an internal spare mount. The bonnet >has a mounting plate, locking pin, and two securing cams with bolt. I have >tried every configuration I thought possible but connot see how the tire >secures on.Any information would be helpful. - Are you asking about mounting on the bonnet or inside? For the bonnet, the tire & wheel fits over the mount with the inside (the part of the wheel that would be in contact with the brake drum) facing up. The pin on the mount fits through one of the lug-bolt holes. The bolts and locking cams fit up through the big hole in the center of the wheel - how the cams actually fit to hold the tire in place is one of the Great Mysteries of the Universe - wheel offset and tire size varies and I think there actually is more than one type of locking cam so you'll have to fiddle around. Basically, the long end of the cam fits against the mounting plate and the other end rests on top of the wheel surface, then you tighten the bolts down. The inside mount is much simpler. You stand the wheel up with the outside edge of the wheel towards the bulkhead. The swivel bolt on the mount goes through the large hole in the center of the wheel. A securing plate fits across the wheel hole, the swivel bolt goes through the plate and the whole thing is held in place with a big wing-nut. Cheers Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SACME@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 23:27:06 -0400 Subject: Spare Tire From:On 11 April Xavier541@aol.com wrote: >I recently bought a '73 SIII that has an internal spare mount. The bonnet >has a mounting plate, locking pin, and two securing cams with bolt. I have >tried every configuration I thought possible but connot see how the tire >secures on.Any information would be helpful. I assume the problem is the bonnet mount. The internal mount, as long as the bolt, washer and wingnut are still present, should be obvious. On the bonnet, the spare goes on with the inside (cruddy side?) of the wheel up. Before lowering the wheel onto the mounting assembly, locate the cams with the curved side out, that is so that the curved sides will just clear the wheel (lug ring) as you lower the wheel into place. Then lift the cams so they are above the lug ring and rotate them one-half turn (or as far as possible). When you tighten the cam bolts, the cams should draw down on the lug ring and hold the wheel firmly in place. One problem I have always had on mine is that the cams tend to catch/jam on the threads of the bolts, making it difficult to lift them up prior to rotating. A little "Never-Sieze" or similar lube helps, but removal and rounding of the cam hole edges is what I have been planning to do for the last 24 years! Caution - the securing bolts have (or used to have) cotter pins on the under-bonnet end, to prevent the bolts from being lost when not under wheel tension. I found this out the hard way when trying to unscrew them completely for lubrication...Ouch! Are you thoroughly confused yet?! Hope the above helps. Doug (Looking for a Round-to-It and spare tire cam file that will fit in my ARB locker) Scott ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 15:09:27 +1000 (EST) From: Thomas Cooper <q9620149@helios.usq.edu.au> Subject: Re: Tropical Roof Vents On Wed, 10 Apr 1996 ASFCO@aol.com wrote: > I have noticed that the roof vents on my lla are a little rusty and I > have also noticed other L-R's with rust-colored stains on the headliner [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)] > Steve Bradke 72 S lll 88 > 68 S lla 88 Having had the dubious pleasure of driving my 109 "Safari" with tropical roof in a North Queensland "monsoon" I can say that there is no leakage from the open roof vents - there are plenty of other leaks though. The main problems with the roof vents seems to be when the vehicle is parked. Heavy driving rain from behind the vehicle seems to collect under the tropical roof and then when you drive off is sloshes around and pours through the open vents onto the unsuspecting passengers. When driving in rain this is not a problem, presumably because most of the time you are driving faster than any rain being driven from the rear and the water would have to force its way up the slope on top of the cab to get to the vents. I don't think turning around the vents would help the "drive away" problem, as with reversing out of the drive, stopping etc. the water seems to slosh in all directions. Tom Cooper SIIa LWB "Safari" , Brisbane Australia. ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 13 Apr 96 03:57:33 EDT From: Arthur Hurley <75750.1014@CompuServe.COM> Subject: Questions? Hi All, I have a couple of questions and am wondering if anyone can help me out. The first pertains to my friend who is having problems with his series 11 88. He's dumping his old engine and wants to upgrade to a 11a 2.25 petrol but is having problems locating a decent one here in the San Francisco bay area. His interest has been piqued by adverts in LRO from Turner engineering in England. We were wondering if anyone could give us some information on them. Has anyone bought an engine from them? if so, what was the quality like and was it difficult to import? The second question pertains to my Series 11a SW that I recently bought. I'm thinking about changing the wind shield wiper motors and have heard that the series 111 system works a little better and is easier to find replacement for. Has anyone done the conversion from 11a to 111 wiper motors? if so what did it involve? and is there possibly a better alternative to all this? thanks ahead of time, Arthur ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960413 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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