Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 2[not specified]
2 Lodelane@aol.com 21Re: Series vehicles over 40MPH
3 Eric Bartels [bartels@ma24MPG for a V8 ?
4 ericz@cloud9.net 22Re: Road Sign Panel Repair Problem?
5 Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite.74Re: MPG for a V8 ?
6 73363.427@CompuServe.COM44David Bobeck / Leak Down Testing
7 "Ron Franklin" [oldhaven26Gear swaps/OD/LT230
8 kurzman@ix.netcom.com (D12Re: Heater intake dryer vent
9 Anthony Verriello [verri18I give up
10 "Mark Talbot" [Land_Rove31For Sale - 1964 109 Station Wagon
11 "Steven L. Meier" [102131I Stand Corrected + Steering Box + Scotty
12 velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk 53Some words on galvanic corrosion
13 slade@sisna.com 29Late IIA lighting q's
14 vandecar@nwlink.com (Van28Bonnet mounted wheel and shaking wheels
15 Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti26re: galvanic corrosion
16 Chris_Browne@US014-BOSTO16Re: I Stand Corrected + Steering Box + Scotty
17 PZavaletta@aol.com 18RoverWeb FAQ URL Needed
18 ROB MODICA [rmodica@east63AZLRO Inaugural Road Trip
19 Benjamin Allan Smith [be23[not specified]
20 "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa23Re: sIII cylinder heads - final report
21 Michael Carradine [cs@cr21Re: RoverWeb FAQ URL Needed
22 Arthur Hurley [75750.10114Series II engine for sale
23 "William L. Leacock" [7516US Rover in UK
24 SPYDERS@aol.com 24[not specified]
25 Michael Carradine [cs@cr19Re: Series II engine for sale
26 AKBLACKLEY@aol.com 13Re: MOD Tools Size
27 Wdcockey@aol.com 14"For Sale" INCLUDE LOCATION
28 Lodelane@aol.com 46Re: US Rover in UK
29 landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mi39Re: Late IIA lighting q's
30 landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mi35Re: Spare Tire
31 SACME@aol.com 37 Spare Tire
32 Thomas Cooper [q9620149@31Re: Tropical Roof Vents
33 Arthur Hurley [75750.10125Questions?


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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 07:26:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Series vehicles over 40MPH

After I got thru replacing U-Joints, etc and overhauling the carb on my 2.25
petrol SWB, I locked out the front hubs and took it out for a "Test Drive" on
I-295.  On the down hill side of the James River bridge with the OD engaged,
I got an indicated 87 mph before I got "concerned" about the slop in the
steering and the swivel pins.

On the flat going, I usually cruise at an indicated 60, but 70 is rather
easy, but quite noisy.  Sixty gets me where I want to go, without stressing
the truck too much, and gives me ample time to think about life in general.

'til later,

Larry Smith
'72 SWB Petrol - Grover
Chester, VA  

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 12:42:05 +0100 (BST)
From: Eric Bartels <bartels@maths.ox.ac.uk>
Subject: MPG for a V8 ?

Hello everybody,

recently I was infected with the Land-Rover fever and I am currently 
thinking of buying one.
I am now wondering about the fuel economy of the different engine types 
and models. I have an offer for a 109/Stage 1/V8 Safari at hand where the 
owner told me that I'd be happy to get 18 MPG out of it.
Is this equally bad for the other engines or is the V8 especially thirsty ?
What could I expect from an early 110 with a V8 ? Are the Defenders more
economical than the Stage 1s ?

And a side question: this Stage 1 has some freeplay in its steering 
(about 10-15 degrees) and the chap said the steering box would need to be 
replaced. Is that a major repair job? Any other point to look out for at 
a Stage 1?

thanks a lot,

Eric, Oxford

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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 06:27:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Road Sign Panel Repair Problem?

On Thu, 11 Apr 1996, "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil> wrote:

>LRO,
>I have seen notes about not using road signs for panel repair.  Years 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>I find them very handy for all sorts of applications.  What is the 
>problem with using such a sign?  Mark 
Assuming you get these signs in the proper manner ;), I find nothing wrong with 
them.  I built a custom center console out of a bunch of old street signs and 
some angle aluminum from the hardware store.  Works great, lightweight and 
strong.  The only problem is that the thickness/alloy of such a material does 
not lend well to bending.  It has a tendency to crack.  The price, however, is 
right.

Regards,
Eric

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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: MPG for a V8 ?
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 23:04:22 +0930 (CST)

Eric Bartels writes:

> and models. I have an offer for a 109/Stage 1/V8 Safari at hand where the 
> owner told me that I'd be happy to get 18 MPG out of it.

Assuming this is Miles/imperial gallon, I'd be *very* happy if my stage 1 
got 18mpg.  Maybe I should fix that motor....
18 mpg seems to be about right for stage 1's a bit better on long runs 
say 20-22 (thats what the guy with the new motor tells me anyway :-(

> Is this equally bad for the other engines or is the V8 especially thirsty ?

Well the V8 is thirsty given its total power output, but not much worse, 
and often a lot better than other big petrol engined 4x4's (a good 
friend had a Toycar Landbruiser ute with the 4.2 petrol, he was happy to 
get 12mpg......)

> What could I expect from an early 110 with a V8 ? 

 Seem to be a little better by most reports, the CR jumped from 8.13 to 
9.35, have heard reports around 18 - 22 mpg
 
> Are the Defenders more economical than the Stage 1s ?
Umm if we're talking V8's then not likely to be much better if we're 
talking tdi's...  Just about twice as good as the V8....  (Hello John 
Hong come in please...)
 
> And a side question: this Stage 1 has some freeplay in its steering 
> (about 10-15 degrees) and the chap said the steering box would need to be 
> replaced. 

You might get lucky and its only adjustment, but...

> Is that a major repair job?

Depends if the old one is rebuildable or if a new one must be found.  
Getting the box out is a frustrating but not overly difficult job.  allow 
yourself plenty of time though, getting the drop arm off can sometimes seem 
an impossibility.

Be careful buying parts for a stage 1 steering box before stripping it, 
mine had one of the optional low ratio boxes, It was totally shot (well 
i shouldnt have driven it for two years after I smashed the balls in the 
worm nut...) and I couldnt mix and match parts from the other box I had 
in pieces...

> Any other point to look out for at a Stage 1?

front Cv joint noises

Gearbox, Transfer case and centre diff function.  Due to the lack of 
front axle droop the stage 1 seems to be harder on the centre diff than 
the other full time 4x4 landrovers.  Centre diff function is probably the 
big killer, make sure it locks, then unlocks and runs nice and freely.

watch out for drive shaft vibrations, the front shaft on the stage 1 is 
unique, and expensive to repair :-(.

Uumm typical series landrover stuff, like spring bushes, fuel tanks, 
excessive oil leaks...

Hey be adventurous, go for the last of the real landrovers, get a stage 1.
Those new coil-sprung, power-steer, disc-braked jobbies take all the fun 
out of it.....

-- 

  Daryl

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From: 73363.427@CompuServe.COM
Date: 12 Apr 96 09:34:16 EDT
Subject: David Bobeck / Leak Down Testing

I tried to send the below messages to David Bobeck but they both bounced, so I
will post them to the list. I guess this time I will need to save AND backup. I
guess this is information that I am just not supposed to have<g>

--------------------------- Message One ------------------------------
Thanks David for the reply, I will be sure to save it this time.

>> 2. Get the #1 Cylinder at TDC. Insert adapter, hook up air hose. The
compression
chamber will fill with air. <<

Is this correct, I seem to recall that the air pressure would force the cylinder
down, so it was a good idea to have the cylinder all the way down. I don't
really know how to check for that though...

--------------------------- Message Two -------------------------------
David,
    No sooner had I sent you a message thanking you for the Test information,
than I had a MASSIVE disk crash. My Seagate Barracuda is *toast*, a friend had a
spare SCSI drive and I will probably be up all night rebuilding my system. I
basically have everything up until yesterday, but I lost your message. If you
could resend it I would appreciate it.

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 12-Apr-1996

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From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@biddeford.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 09:48:36 -0500
Subject: Gear swaps/OD/LT230

I am not all that familiar with the LT230 transfer case, though I do know 
they come in ratios which vary from 1.22 to 1 in the high HP vehicles to 
1.66 to one in 4-cylinder 110's.  My question is:  Is there any way to get 
a 1 to 1 ratio gearset for the LT230, or failing that, is there an 
overdrive which will fit similar to the earlier Series t-case? ( Durability 
a consideration here)
My reason for asking is that the low rpm diesel conversion I am doing has 
been complicated because I will be using a RR LT230 and axles instead of 
the Ford pieces I had decided on. (I couldn't resist!)  The Ford 13-56 transfer case had a 1 to 
1 high ratio and put the engine into a perfect range at 70 mph.  The LT230 
brings it up farther than I would like, though not uncomfortably so.  (2400 
rpm versus 2000 with 7.50-16 tires and a .75 overdrive transmission)
For reasons of low range use and cost I would rather not use diff ratios numerically 
lower than the 3.54 stock numbers.  Somebody out there must have wrestled 
with this one before, especially those of you across the pond who have been 
doing diesel conversions since Defenders and RR's first appeared.
Thanks,
Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 07:23:06 -0700
From: kurzman@ix.netcom.com (David S. Kurzman )
Subject: Re: Heater intake dryer vent

Instead of using a dryer vent you could keep your L-R all Rover and
use one of the hood scoops off of a North American P6B (I don't think 
the UK P6B's had scoops). I've seen a picture of this done and it 
looked nice. Also it only sticks out about an inch and a half so
it shouldn't be too much off a problem out in the woods. Best,
Dave in Va.         
109 RHD military rag top

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From: Anthony Verriello <verriello_t@jpmorgan.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 10:32:21 -0400
Subject: I give up

I apologize in advance for any trouble that will be caused by my email address changing.

I have tried sveral times to unsubscrive to the digest and have even sent mail to 

majordomo-owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net.  Today is my last day at my present company and I

hope to resubscribe at my new place of business.  Hope the rejections dont cause anyone

too much grief, but I give up.

Tony
verriello_anthony@jpmorgan.com  (at least for today)

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 15:30:02 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: For Sale - 1964 109 Station Wagon 

For Sale 

1964 109 Station Wagon, Marine blue with Limestone top. 

What's been done. 

Rebuilt brakes, new cylinders, brakes lines, shoes, new master cylinder.  
Rebuilt rear hubs, seals and bearings. Rebuilt front hubs, new swivels, seals 
and bearings.  

New exhaust system and H/D rear springs. New shocks all round. Clutch rebuilt 
with new plate, master and slave cylinders replaced. 

New rear cross-member. Frame is in great shape, painted in black rust proofing 
paint. 

Replaced all window channels and doors seals, new interior panels and 
headliner. New 7.50 x 16 tyres on freshly blasted and painted limestone 
wheels. 

Re-sprayed in marine blue. Original paperwork and owners manual. Lots more 
done. This vehicle is in great shape. 

Offers around $12,000

Mark (603) 357-3401

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Date: 12 Apr 96 11:32:59 EDT
From: "Steven  L. Meier" <102141.3253@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: I Stand Corrected + Steering Box + Scotty

I stand corrected . . . having failed English 101, I have again failed to 
express myself correctly.  I should have stated "yuppies who own 
plushmobiles", thus excluding those on this list and all others who are not 
"yuppies" owning RR's, Defenders and Disco's.  Believe it or not I even know a
few.  I also stand corrected re. LRNA (BMW) after reading of the heritage 
information contained on their new web page.  A very large apology to any and 
all I've offended . . . forgiven?

Re. the question on steering box lube . . . if leaking a lot requiring 
frequent filling to keep up.  If you don't care to rebuild the box (no small 
task) it is helpful to mix a brew of gear oil and grease to a rather thick 
consistency (paste) and use that in the steering box as lubrication.  It will 
slow the leak considerably . . . just paste leaks out . . . and provide 
adequate lubrication since there are no high speed parts involved.  A bit 
testy to get in . . . a pastry bag works well.  Fill it up.

Re. Chevy adaptors . . . contact Scotty in Concord . CA
1.510.676.4872 or 1.510.686.2255 . . . e-Mail is INTERNET:JHOWAT@aol.com

Keep the "Romance" Alive . . . Steven L. Meier
ROVERS YOU CAN RIDE . Santa Fe . New Mexico
Specializing in Complete Frame Up Restorations
Engine/Gearbox Conversions and other Options Available
e-Mail 102141.3253@Compuserve.com  1.505.438.2475  FAX 1.505.989.7622

   

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From: velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 18:07:54 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Some words on galvanic corrosion

Hi all.

I have followed the thread on galvanic corrosion, and would like to say
something about metallurgy. Galvanic corrosion is found where a less noble
metal gives elektrons to a more noble metal beacuse of acidity or lack of
oxygen in a moist slit between the two metals. The difference in nobility
of the two metals (Potential Voltage) determines the grade of corrosion.

If you force a voltage onto two metals you can either make the problem
bigger or smaller. Better or worse wandering of electrons is determined
by the polarity of the forced voltage.

For an example the question whether galvanizing the frame is better or
worse. Zinc protects steel, and between zinc and aluminium the potential
voltage is smaller than between steel and aluminium. This results in less
corrosion on frame and aluminium parts next to it.

Another example is if you replace an ordinary steel part with one made from
passive stainless steel, the aluminium parts next to will be corroded very
fast because of a very high potential voltage. Problems like this can be
solved with a layer of paint covering both parts where they possibly could
get in contact with each other (physically or with a moisture bridge).

The physical size (area) of two parts in a construction is also important,
the anode/cathode relationship must be right.
Examples: A copper rivet in an aluminium part is ok because the relationship
is optimal. An aluminium rivet in a copper part is bad because the
relationship will make the rivet corrode away in a short time.

Summary:
The amount of galvanic corrosion is determined by difference in nobility,
Physical size, environment (moisture, salt etc.), forced voltage and surface
treatment.

Beware!!
Never use forced voltage on a car, it's too difficult to control the
polarity through the car. This will cause more corrosion some places and
less other.

Feel free to mail questions or for further information.

Regards.
Jakob Christensen
-----------------------------------
Stine Henriksen / Jakob Christensen
Borrowed account    -   73 sIII 88"
-----------------------------------

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From: slade@sisna.com
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 08:23:05 -0700
Subject: Late IIA lighting q's

Hello all,

I've got a 1970 Canadian spec late IIA 109 station wagon and I'm trying to
sort out the lighting and make it accurate.

As of now the parking lights are on with the headlights.  With the switch
in the middle position the parking lights are off as well as the
headlights.

Shouldn't the parking lights be on when the switch is in the middle
position and off when the headlights are on?

At least that's how it was with my '66 IIA.

Also, does anyone have any good ideas of what 'other' parts can be used to
put a rear wiper on the full door of my Station Wagon?  Short of buying a
110 door I'm not sure how to go about this.

Thanks,

Michael Slade
IIa 109 SW 1970
slade@sisna.com

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 09:37:43 -0700
From: vandecar@nwlink.com (Van Decar)
Subject: Bonnet mounted wheel and shaking wheels

My 94 D90 has a dealer installed bonnet mounted spare.  After the thread a
week or so ago, I looked the at the 
installation and found that the steel reinforcing pieces on the bottom side
of the bonnet were not galvanized and 
starting to rust. The dealer correct the situation at their expenses, but
only after a bit banner.  They didn't want 
to at first because the parts were from Rovers North.

After the thread about shaking wheels, I checked mine.  (By the way, I
believe the correct way to check the front
is with the wheels on the ground, not hanging free.  Never seen a vehicle
that wasn't loose with the wheel
hanging down).  Anyway, when I shook the left rear, it moved in and out
about a quarter inch or so.  On the way to 
the dealer, the bearing went out.  The dealer replaced not only bearing but
the half shaft.  They also tried to say
that a quarter inch end play was normal.  

While driving across the U of T campus, I waved and beeped at a RR full
girls, they looked but didn't wave, guess they thought...

Chris Van Decar      94 D90  Slo-Mo VII    
<vandecar@nwlink.com>

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From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 12:03:44 -0500
Subject: re: galvanic corrosion

On the subject of pos vs. neg ground I'm not to sure.

I'm finding *lots* of corrosion around all my aluminum to steel joints   
with positive ground. At some point, a new rear crossmember was   
fabricated with a lip extending the full length to replace the tabs to   
hold the body. I have corrosion all along this lip, and that hasn't been   
there the full 30 years (but a long time, nonetheless).

Lots of corrosion around the seat box and tunnel cover, and on the wings.   
I guess I don't know if its better than 'typical', but I'd hate to think   
that if negative ground made it *worse* what the condition would be.

To be safe, I'm trying to insulate all my steel to aluminum joints with   
thin rubber pad. I'll find out tomorrow how well things reassemble...

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW   

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From: Chris_Browne@US014-BOSTON-MINET.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM
Date: 12 Apr 96 13:20:08 EDT
Subject: Re: I Stand Corrected + Steering Box + Scotty

     
     Steve Meier says
     "Forgiven?"
     
     Yes, as penance you must wash the mud off the undercarriage of every 
     Disco/rr you see for 30 days
     
     Your a Big guy mister!
     regards
     chris browne

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From: PZavaletta@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 15:39:32 -0400
Subject: RoverWeb FAQ URL Needed

On April 6, Ferenc-Jan van Zijp wrote: 

>>BTW the Roverweb-FAQ is GREAT. I've printed the how-to-buy-a-used-LR 
section and intend to go over it line by line when buying a used LR. 
Just what will the used-LR-seller think?<<

Does anyone know the URL to this site? 

Thanks in advance, 

Peter M. Zavaletta, Esq.
'95 RR County Classic, Alpine White (aka 'Winston')

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 12:44:02 MST
From: ROB MODICA <rmodica@east.pima.edu>
Subject: AZLRO Inaugural Road Trip

To all AZLROs and any other interested LROs;

Coming up in June: the Inaugural Arizona Land Rover Owners Not-a-Rally
(aka Road Trip).

James Howard of the Flagstaff "Puddle" has agreed to organize a road trip
in Northern Arizona along the Perkinsville Road over the weekend of June
8th and 9th.  From the "ghost" town of Jerome into the Prescott National 
Forest
skirting the Woodchute Wilderness area to the hamlet of Perkinsville on 
the
Verde River and then north through the Kaibab National Forest towards the
city of Williams.

This is approximately a 45 mile trip so it could include an overnight
stay for those who wish.  James and I both plan on camping overnight to do
a little exploring.  Dead Horse Ranch State Park is located across the
river from Cottonwood AZ about five miles from Jerome and very close to
Tuzigoot National Monument.  This would be a good place to camp on Friday
night before the trip.  There are 45 campsites at 3300 feet elevation.
Water and restrooms with showers are available.  Fees in 1994 were $8 for 
sites
with no hookup.  If sufficient numbers of people are interested group
reservations can be made to assure campsites and have a place to be in
case of a spontaneous attack of Roveritis.

DIRECTIONS to Dead Horse Ranch State Park.

Fifty three miles south of Flagstaff on I-17 or ninety three miles north
of Phoenix on I-17 to Arizona Highway 279.  Head west towards Cotonwood.
>From the junction of US 89A (Alternate) and Arizona Highways 260 and 279,
drive six tenths of a mile northwest on UA 89A to milepost 353 in
Cottonwood.  Travel northwest on Main Street (toward Old Cottonwood and
Clarkdale) for 1.8 miles.  Main Street begins as South Main, then becomes
North Main and finally turns into East Main as you near the park turnoff.
Turn north onto North 10th Street and continue for four tenths of a  mile
to a concrete ford over the Verde River.  The park is at the end of North
10th Street.  There are signs directing you to the campground.

We will meet at Dead Horse State Park at 8am on Saturday June 8th and
take a little ride.

DISCLAIMER

Due to considerations of liability, etc., this just NOT an official rally
of any sort, it just so happens that James and I and a few other Land 
Rover
owners will probably all be driving around in northern Arizona in June.
If anyone happens to see us and join along we'd be glad to have the
company.

For further information.contact :

James Howard at <jhoward@argus.lowell.edu > or at (520)-526-8936  or
Rob Modica at < rmodica@east.pima.edu > or at (520)-747-9299

Rob Modica      '51 SI 80"              '60 SII 109" Safari
Tucson AZ       "94 Disco 5spd  "Casper"

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Subject: Re: RoverWeb FAQ URL Needed 
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 12:48:42 -0700
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <bulk.20043.19960412123820@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you wrote:

> >>BTW the Roverweb-FAQ is GREAT. I've printed the how-to-buy-a-used-LR 
> section and intend to go over it line by line when buying a used LR. 
> Just what will the used-LR-seller think?<<
> Does anyone know the URL to this site? 

http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/RoverWeb/           for the RoverWeb
http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/FAQ.top.html   for the Land Rover FAQ

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 12:47:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: sIII cylinder heads - final report

> From: Jens Vesterdahl <jve@phaseone.dk>
> Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 08:43:02 
> Subject: sIII cylinder heads - final report

> Hi all.

> Well, it's done. My reworked cylinder head is back in place and MAN -
> what a difference. Now I can actually accelerate uphill in 4th gear!
> Strange feeling, but I like it :-)

A hill?  In Denmark?  Is this something that has just been constructed?
Must be another one of those Scaninavian engineering marvels.

              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
              * Walter C. Swain         | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us       *
              * Davis Community Network | 1988 Range Rover              * 
              * Davis, California       | 1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW *
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 14:00:20 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: RoverWeb FAQ URL Needed

At 03:39 PM 4/12/96 -0400, Peter M. Zavaletta <PZavaletta@aol.com> wrote:
>On April 6, Ferenc-Jan van Zijp wrote: 
>>>BTW the Roverweb-FAQ is GREAT. I've printed the how-to-buy-a-used-LR 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Just what will the used-LR-seller think?<<
>Does anyone know the URL to this site? 

 You can there through a link on Rumpole's Rover page (see sig below)

 Cheers,
                         ______
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                    Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900            [________]               Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88")
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

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Date: 12 Apr 96 17:06:43 EDT
From: Arthur Hurley <75750.1014@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Series II engine for sale

Dear all

I'm doing this on behalf of my friend who doesn't have internet access.  He is
interested in selling his old 1961 series 11 2.25 petrol engine.  One of the
connecting rods is busted, but there are still some good components.  Anyone
interested or wanting more information can email me at
75750.1014@compuserve.com.

Thanks  

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Date: 12 Apr 96 17:25:25 EDT
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: US Rover in UK

Chris Van DeCar asks about taking a US spec 90 to the UK
 As a visitor you are allowed to use a vehicle from any country for up to one
year providing you have an International Plate ( ie USA)  displayed.
 Be prepared for the high price of gas 
 As a US serviceman I think you can get subsidised gas amongst other things on
the base. It is also possible that as a serviceman you can use your US
registered vehicle anyway, in teh vicinity of US bases in Europe I have seen a
lot of US registered vehicles in use, even the old boats !! I suggest you check
within the service for advise on overseas postings.

 Regards  Bil Leacock  Limey in exile

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 17:59:56 -0400

g. (US miles & US Gallons)

Based on the last 15 tanks of gas on freeways: a "full as full can get" tank
until the light comes on, 245-250 miles later uses16 x1 Gallons. So it looks
like I'm getting 15-16 MPG. The tank *should* hold 20-21 (But I'm not Exactly
sure how much) so theoretically I've got another 60 miles after the light. I
think LR is either being very conservative by making the last 1/4 of the
guage red and having the light come on then or maybe the accuracy just isn't
there. 

The fuel usage is for a NAS D110 with the roof rack on top, 3.9L V8 and light
cargo (100-150 lbs, excluding myself)

I do try to get in other vehicles' wakes to increase the MPG. On longish
freeway drives, while draughting a car/van/pick-up at 70mph, the MPG went up
close to 23.  : )

pat.
93  110

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 15:00:09 -0700
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Series II engine for sale

At 05:06 PM 4/12/96 EDT, Arthur Hurley <75750.1014@CompuServe.COM> wrote:
>I'm doing this on behalf of my friend who doesn't have internet access.  He is
>interested in selling his old 1961 series 11 2.25 petrol engine.  One of the
>connecting rods is busted, but there are still some good components.  Anyone
>interested or wanting more information can email me at
>75750.1014@compuserve.com.

 Geeeez, Art!  Maybe you can tell us what part of the world you're in as a
 start, or shall we just assume you are in the center?

-Michael Carradine
 cs@crl.com
 Walnut Creek, CA, USA  <---location (30 min east of San Francisco)
 510-988-0900           <---phone/fax

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From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 18:24:21 -0400
Subject: Re: MOD Tools Size

 Scott Bronson asks: They sound miniature. Are they even useful? Yes! They
were meant to be mounted on the tailgate of the Series LR, the Lightweight,
and also on the front of the FC101 so they are "compact". Are they as handy
as full sized tools? No, but they are compact enough to stow easily. The pick
is a hefty little job, and while I wouldnt want ot dig a ditch with it I can
remenber a time ot two on the trail when I wish I had something better than
the German entrenching tool I used to carry in the back of my Rangie.

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 19:22:10 -0400
Subject: "For Sale" INCLUDE LOCATION

To anyone posting a "For Sale" note:
Please include location, at least city (nearby if not in) and state/province.

Otherwise messages are generated inquiring of the location. Phone numbers
alone are not sufficient. Searching to find where an area code is located is
frustrating, and new area codes keep popping up.

Thanks.

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 22:10:54 -0400
Subject: Re: US Rover in UK

Bill & Chris,

My experience is more than 10 years old, but here goes.  As a service member,
you are allowed to ship one US spec vehicle to your duty station.  If you
ship one, you will be allowed to return ship one vehicle to CONUS
(Continental United States(yeah some d***n military acronymn)) on tour
completion.  You can buy subsidized fuel coupons thru the PX system in
country of station.  Ten plus years ago, it was about 1/4 the rate the
average German was paying at the pump.  Know exchange rates change and Status
of Forces Agreements change, so you might want to check ahead with one of
your mates currently assigned.  These coupons are rationed by vehicle
size/weight and "book" consumption (not sure who does the book).  If you use
your ration, you have to queue up like everyone else and pay full pump price.
 Should you want to travel to the continent, you can arrange to buy a limited
amount of coupons for the countries you will travel in.  As no lead is now
available in the UK and Europe, you will not have to remove the catalytic
converter and save for reinstallation on your return to the States.  (Big
pain and a DEFINITE EPA/Customs rejection).  You will have to buy masking
kits for your headlights or convert to UK standard cutouts for the low beams
(both available at the PX gas stations - don't go anywhere else!!).  Not sure
on required safety equipment.  In Germany, you were required by law to have a
DIN standard first aid kit and warning triangle.  You will probably have to
pass an in country driver's license test to include International Road Signs.
 Triple A International Drivers' License does not count.  This is a SOFA
requirement for specific countries.  Other than learning how to drive on the
"wrong" side (watch out for round abouts - nearly nailed a police cruiser
with its lights and siren going - I was trying to yield the roundabout by
going to the wrong side) and clearing the lane to overtake (pass), you
shouldn't have any problems.  Not sure on the status now, but all bases used
to have Auto Craft Shops that most people would kill to have access to -
pits, lifts, welding machines, tools, etc.

Again, my facts are dated, but may give you a point to start from.  May want
to call AAFES in Dallas or USAFE in Germany for an update.

'til later,

Larry Smith
'72 SWB Petrol - Grover
Chester, VA

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 23:06:41 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Late IIA lighting q's

Michael Slade asks about lights....

>I've got a 1970 Canadian spec late IIA 109 station wagon and I'm trying to
 sort out the lighting and make it accurate.

 As of now the parking lights are on with the headlights.  With the switch
 in the middle position the parking lights are off as well as the
 headlights.
 
 Shouldn't the parking lights be on when the switch is in the middle
>position and off when the headlights are on?

Early to mid 1960's US specs (and maybe Canadian as well) required that the
parking lights turn off when the headlights were on. That was not required
everywhere else however. I believe the wiring change involved only changing
the position of a connection on the light switch. I think that by 1970 the
regulations required having the parking lights on with the headlights.

Your 1970 IIa probably has the toggle-type of switch, right? It sounds as if
maybe a PO had the dash apart at some point and got the wires mixed up. The
center position should turn on the parking lights. You may want to check out
the switch with a meter and determine what contacts work in what positions.

>Also, does anyone have any good ideas of what 'other' parts can be used to
>put a rear wiper on the full door of my Station Wagon?  Short of buying a
>110 door I'm not sure how to go about this.
-

Try a boating supply place. Windshield wiper kits are available to add
wipers to a boat windshield. Some are designed to move through a 90 deg arc.

Cheers
Mike
 

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Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 23:06:38 -0400
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Spare Tire

Someone wrote.....

>I recently bought a '73 SIII that has an internal spare mount.  The bonnet
>has a mounting plate, locking pin, and two securing cams with bolt.  I have
>tried every configuration I thought possible but connot see how the tire
>secures on.Any information would be helpful.   
-

Are you asking about mounting on the bonnet or inside?

For the bonnet, the tire & wheel fits over the mount with the inside (the
part of the wheel that would be in contact with the brake drum) facing up.
The pin on the mount fits through one of the lug-bolt holes. The bolts and
locking cams fit up through the big hole in the center of the wheel - how
the cams actually fit to hold the tire in place is one of the Great
Mysteries of the Universe - wheel offset and tire size varies and I think
there actually is more than one type of locking cam so you'll have to fiddle
around. Basically, the long end of the cam fits against the mounting plate
and the other end rests on top of the wheel surface, then you tighten the
bolts down.

The inside mount is much simpler. You stand the wheel up with the outside
edge of the wheel towards the bulkhead. The swivel bolt on the mount goes
through the large hole in the center of the wheel. A securing plate fits
across the wheel hole, the swivel bolt goes through the plate and the whole
thing is held in place with a big wing-nut.

Cheers
Mike
 

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From: SACME@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 23:27:06 -0400
Subject:  Spare Tire

From:On 11 April Xavier541@aol.com wrote:

>I recently bought a '73 SIII that has an internal spare mount.  The bonnet
>has a mounting plate, locking pin, and two securing cams with bolt.  I have
>tried every configuration I thought possible but connot see how the tire
>secures on.Any information would be helpful.

I assume the problem is the bonnet mount.  The internal mount, as long as the
bolt, washer and wingnut are still present, should be obvious.

On the bonnet, the spare goes on with the inside (cruddy side?) of the wheel
up.  Before lowering the wheel onto the mounting assembly, locate the cams
with the curved side out, that is so that the curved sides will just clear
the wheel (lug ring) as you lower the wheel into place.  Then lift the cams
so they are above the lug ring and rotate them one-half turn (or as far as
possible).  When you tighten the cam bolts, the cams should draw down on the
lug ring and hold the wheel firmly in place.  One problem I have always had
on mine is that the cams tend to catch/jam on the threads of the bolts,
making it difficult to lift them up prior to rotating.  A little
"Never-Sieze" or similar lube helps, but removal and rounding of the cam hole
edges is what I have been planning to do for the last 24 years!  Caution -
the securing bolts have (or used to have) cotter pins on the under-bonnet
end, to prevent the bolts from being lost when not under wheel tension. I
found this out the hard way when trying to unscrew them completely for
lubrication...Ouch!

Are you thoroughly confused yet?!  Hope the above helps.

Doug (Looking for a Round-to-It and spare tire cam file that will fit in my
ARB locker) Scott      

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Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 15:09:27 +1000 (EST)
From: Thomas Cooper <q9620149@helios.usq.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Tropical Roof Vents

On Wed, 10 Apr 1996 ASFCO@aol.com wrote:

>      I have noticed that the roof vents on my lla are a little rusty and I
> have also noticed other L-R's with rust-colored stains  on the headliner
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
> Steve Bradke  72 S lll 88
>                      68 S lla 88
Having had the dubious pleasure of driving my 109 "Safari" with tropical 
roof in a North Queensland "monsoon" I can say that there is no leakage 
from the open roof vents - there are plenty of other leaks though.

The main problems with the roof vents seems to be when the vehicle is 
parked. Heavy driving rain from behind the vehicle seems to collect under 
the tropical roof and then when you drive off is sloshes around and pours 
through the open vents onto the unsuspecting passengers.

When driving in rain this is not a problem, presumably because most of 
the time you are driving faster than any rain being driven from the rear 
and the water would have to force its way up the slope on top of the cab 
to get to the vents.

I don't think turning around the vents would help the "drive away" 
problem, as with reversing out of the drive, stopping etc. the water 
seems to slosh in all directions. 

Tom Cooper SIIa LWB "Safari" , Brisbane Australia.

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Date: 13 Apr 96 03:57:33 EDT
From: Arthur Hurley <75750.1014@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Questions?

Hi All,

I have a couple of questions and am wondering if anyone can help me out.  The
first pertains to my friend who is having problems with his series 11 88.  He's
dumping his old engine and wants to upgrade to a 11a 2.25 petrol but is having
problems locating a decent one here in the San Francisco bay area.  His interest
has been piqued by adverts in LRO from Turner engineering in England.  We were
wondering if anyone could give us some information on them.  Has anyone bought
an engine from them? if so, what was the quality like and was it difficult to
import?

The second question pertains to my Series 11a SW that I recently bought.  I'm
thinking about changing the wind shield wiper motors and have heard that the
series 111 system works a little better and is easier to find replacement for.
Has anyone done the conversion from 11a to 111 wiper motors?  if so what did it
involve? and is there possibly a better alternative to all this?

thanks ahead of time,

Arthur

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