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Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 06:59:59 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: Jack For A Series III SWB

> comes along. I've recieved all sorts of different advice on what sort of
> jack to be and I'm confused as to which is the best option. Any kind souls
> out there prepared to share their experiences and give me the benefit of
> their advice?

    With all due respect to the Jack-All-as-recovery-device crowd, I
    carry a small hydraulic floor jack with me.  I can't (easily) bolt
    it on the outside of the vehicle, and it won't help me if I'm
    hip-deep in mud, but it makes quick and easy work of lifting a wheel
    or axle off the ground.

    Duncan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 07:44:08 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Shackles Vs hooks

Hi all,

Sorry for the cross posting, but I believe that there has been
discussion on the coiler list about this, then a mention on LRO today.

DO NOT EVER USE A HOOK ON A TOW STRAP OR ROPE FOR OFF ROAD RECOVERY.

A hook can become unhooked during the recovery, or worse partly
unhooked. Then on the next hard pull it comes off, releasing all the
kinetic energy stored in the rope, even in a dead rope.

The only time I have seen the result of this it lead to a broken rear
window. The passenger in the back saw the hook aiming for the drivers
head and instinctively or bravely tried to catch it. He broke 2 fingers
which were left flapping in the breeze and there was still enough power
left to cut the drivers head and leave him a bit wobbly, and presumably
concussed.

Only use shackles and preferably on tow loops, as opposed to tow hooks.
It is quite hard for a shackle to come off a hoop, but very easy for a
hook to come off another hook.

I know you can tie up the opening of a hook or even get gated hooks,
but they are a bodge.  You are only treating the symptom, not the
cause of the danger.

Play safe, Steve

Steve Reddock, Xyratex       | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450     | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)           | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.

------------------------------

From: jve@phaseone.dk
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 96 12:58:50 
Subject: Cylinder head gaskets

Hi all.

The first mail bounced, sorry if you've read this before.

The cylinder head for my 4cyl sII petrol engine is now being reworked. It didn't 
look too bad to me, but I guess I can't see the difference anyway. The outlet 
valve in cylinder 1 was worn to almost half size, but the head itself was more 
or less intact.
A few months ago I gave it a new head gasket, and now it had burnt a one inch 
gap between cylinders 2 and 3. So in effect only number 4 was pulling the car. 
This makes perfect sense to me judging from the power and sound effects.

Anyway, when I first took off the head, I had to scrape the old gasket off. Then 
I got a copper gasket which stayed in one piece but was eaten. Now I have a new 
gasket that looks like it is made of some (asbestos?) fibres with metal 
reinforcements around the cylinder holes.
My sIII service manual says that if I use a non-retorque (????? - not in my 
dictionary) fabric type gasket I should mount it dry and if I use a copper-
asbestos gasket I should smear it with GP grease. Or was it the other way 
around? I don't know which is which, so I was hoping for advise from the all-
knowing herd of fellow LRO's.
What should I do - smear this fibre gasket with grease or leave it dry?

Happy Rovering

Jens Vesterdahl
Copenhagen, Denmark
1972 109 STW (pre-1971 engine) 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 08:40:26 -0500 (EST)
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Re: 109 cylinder head gaskets

>What should I do - smear this fibre gasket with grease or leave it dry?

The last head gasket I installed (last summer) was the fibre type. These
are to be installed with no gasket sealer, just dry, according to the folks
at Rovers North. I also had a blow-by between nos. 2 and 3.

Chris Stevens
Towson, MD, USA
'69 SRIIa 88" SW

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 09:23:57 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Jack For A Series III SWB

On Tue, 2 Apr 1996, David R Scholes wrote:

> My 1978 SIII SWB has come to me without a jack. Great until my first flat
> comes along. I've recieved all sorts of different advice on what sort of
> jack to be and I'm confused as to which is the best option. Any kind souls
> out there prepared to share their experiences and give me the benefit of
> their advice?

	For my LWB I usually have a floor jack and a jack-all in the back.
	Sissor and bottle jacks are for the birds.

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@biddeford.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 09:25:44 -0500
Subject: (Fwd) RFG

-
Here is some further discussion of Reformulated gasoline which was on the 
Tiger list and I thought would be of interest to Series owners with old 
hardened rubber parts:

------ Forwarded Message Follows -------
Date:          Sun, 31 Mar 1996 18:27:23 -0800 (PST)

Subject:       RFG

I took Rolands advice and checked out Chevrons  WEB site.  They say that
reformulated gasoline (RFG) can damage "elastomers" (they mean the rubber
sealing dookies in our fuel system).  Our elastomers can be damaged  by
swelling or shrinkage.  They took some stuff out of the gas.  The lack of
that stuff can cause previously swelled elastomers to shrink and cause
leaks.  They put some stuff into the gas.  This new stuff can cause
previously un-swelled elastomers to swell and cause leaks.  The age of the
elastomers and the material in the elastomers can be contributing factors.
Old seals, hoses, etc., that have hardened can be a problem.  New materials
are more resistant to the chemicals.

The RFG (Reformulated Gasoline) has 2-3% less energy in it than the old stuff.  

RFG has lower vapor pressures than old gas. This can contribute to hard
starting in cold weather.  Reduced vapor pressure has some interesting
consequences for fuel storage. Normally, the air-fuel ratio in the space
above fuel in a container is too rich for combustion.   In cold weather the
vapor pressure of RFG can drop low enough to change this situation.  Chevron
stressed that an ignition source is required for there to be a problem.

-----------------------------------

I imagine what this should indicate to us is that it's not a bad idea to 
replace aging rubber and elastomers in the fuel system whenever the 
opportunity arises rather than use the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" 
philosophy, ( or at least carry spare parts for such things as fuel pump 
diaphgrams, fuel line,  and carb seals and gaskets).  As for the last 
paragraph, just think about the location of an 88 gas tank, but don't tell 
your passenger.

Ron Franklin

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 10:36:00 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Used chassis

Dear All,
        More Spring cleaning... We have a great used 88 frame, Galv. rear
cross member, in excellent shape. It is a take out from a coil conversion,
ready to bolt in. Realistic offers??
        Thanks, see ya!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 09:33:42 -0600
Subject: re: 2WD-4WD

Thanks everyone for the help/info on my transfer case & drivetrain
questions. Especially Dave B. who called me to give me some more
detailed advice. (Does everyone else also carry their RN catalog
around with them all the time for handy reference :-)  )

[BTW, my wife says to me: "You guys must all drive lemons if you
can't go anywhere without taking a parts catalog..." :-) She was
joking. I think...]

So here was some results of last night's expedition into the output
shaft assembly.

True to form, I didn't know exactly what I was doing. The yellow
lever pin locks the output shaft in *2WD*, not 4WD. Sheesh. So I
was in 4WD thinking I was in 2WD and thats why my shaft wouldn't
turn. Its difficult to visualize the mechanics of the system
when you're not sitting in the driver seat.

Ok, so no problems there. I am correctly transferring between
2 and 4 wheel drive. Whew.

But I still have the tap in the housing. So I pulled the housing
by removing the seven nuts that hold it to the transfer case, and
sliding the case off of the selector shafts. I had to take off
the clutch slave cylinder and bracket to do that. Everything inside
was in great shape, lots o' 90wt, no scoring, no rust, no dirt, no
metal shavings.

My new frame has now been baptized in 90wt... :-)

Of course, getting it apart was the easy part :-) There is a good
sized spring on one of the selector shafts that will need to be
compressed to get this all back together. Weeee.

But now I *know*.

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 10:38:01 -500
Subject: ManySlabThanks!

Thanks for all the slabs responses.  I've learned a lot!  Bring lots 
of cold beer!  Mark

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 02 Apr 96 08:41:17 MST
Subject: West coast LR parts supplier...

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486

Xavier541@aol.com asks about west coast suppliers of LR parts. My all
time favorite is British Pacific (here we go again, another shameless
plug...) They have been VERY helpful, reasonable prices, usually can
offer both original equipment or sometimes an after market (less
expensive) alternative. Call them at 1-800-554-4133 or e-mail at:
britpac@aol.com    (They are LR enthusiasts as well!)

No I don't work for them, but any more of these unsolicited
recommendations and I'm going to want a "good guy discount!" ;)

What do you say Steve and Lawrence??

#=======#         _________           We make a living by what we get,
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___        we make a life by what we give.
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                       Winston Churchill

------------------------------

From: "Mark Gehlhausen" <Gehl@sphinx.nwscc.sea06.navy.mil>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 10:49:04 -500
Subject: Thanks/MoreInfoRequest

Mike,
Thanks for the LR information packet!  I will definately stop by this 
summer.  In the meantime, I suggest you send some information to a 
friend of mine.  He has a IIA 109 with a rotten rear frame.  He is not 
sure of what to do and your solutions might get him motivated.  Plus, 
I might be able to deliver his LR to you this summer.  Imagine that!

His address is:
Eric Thompson
6510 South Becks Grove Road
Columbus IN 47201

Thanks, Mark

------------------------------

Date: 02 Apr 96 11:07:03 EST
From: "Steven  L. Meier" <102141.3253@compuserve.com>
Subject: Mechanical to Electric Oil Pressure Gague

Concerning all the discussion re. mechanical oil pressure gauges . . . 
copper/"plastic" pipes . . . oil leaking from same making a big mess, 
especially in the dash, not to mention losing your oil on top of the mountain.

It is possible to fit an electric oil pressure gauge . . . thus eliminating 
the above or to add one if not currently fitted . . . using a Champ or other 
after market kit from your auto parts store or check with the Land Rover 
suppliers for a kit.  Some innovative plumbing at the site of the oil pressure
warning light attachment at the top of the oil filter will allow for both.  
Use a Brass pipe thread T-fitting and any necessary adaptors + nipples, again 
from your auto parts store, (don't forget the Teflon tape) to accommodate both
senders.  The new gauge usually fits the old bracket or use the one that comes
with the kit.

While doing all of this plumbing, consider fitting a spin-on oil filter 
adaptor as well . . . British Pacific has them.

In my experience, some variation in pressure readings between the "old" 
mechanical unit and the new electric unit may occur . . . not a big worry, as 
long as you are aware of it.  It probably has to do with the sending unit not 
being perfectly matched to the Land Rover Engine and the innovative plumbing. 

If you insist on keeping the mechanical unit, contact below for new pipes and 
connectors . . . I think he still has same in stock.

NISONGER INSTRUMENT SALES & SERVICE
570 Mamaroneck Avenue
Mamaroneck . NY . 10543
1.914.381.1953
FAX 1.914.381.1953

Keep the "Romance" Alive . . . Steven L. Meier
ROVERS YOU CAN RIDE . Santa Fe . New Mexico
Specializing in Complete Frame Up Restorations
Engine/Gearbox Conversions and other Options Available
e-Mail 102141.3253@Compuserve.com  1.505.438.2475  FAX 1.505.989.7622

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 08:17:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael Roberts <psu00712@odin.cc.pdx.edu>
Subject: Re: Heated windscreens

> You have to fit a new piece of glass, which is laminated with the
> heating element between the panes.  The element is similar to a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
> local tripplex agent should be able to get one.
> May you vision soon be clear, Steve
 
Contact Rovers North, They were advertising them for the series rovers 
for (approx) $470 or so...

Michael Roberts
future owner (still...:-(   )

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 96 11:46:47 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: book sale, LR+Jensens

Got a sale catalog from Class. Motorbooks - lots of items on sale.
I think a Brooklands RR book is 70%off.  Also, a 4x4 driving book,can't
remember the title, was 80% off.

Was reading up on Jensen Interceptors and looking for LR connections:
Besides Lucas gremlins (I still have to hot-wire mine every time), it
has a Salisbury rear axle.  The FF's are 4=wheel drive with center diff (!!),
with front diff frame-mounted.  Wheelbase? 109"

Jan
'63 109HT
'69 Alfa Spider
'71 Interceptor
'73 Alfa GTV

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 11:54:10 -0500
From: jeff@purpleshark.com (Jeffrey A. Berg)
Subject: Re: Jack For A Series III SWB

[On Jacks]

> Any kind souls out there prepared to share their experiences and give me
>the benefit of
>their advice?

For roadside tire changes I like the stability of a small, high quality,
bottle jack, and will be purchasing one soon.  I currently carry a 48"
Jackall (Hi-Lift), which will remain in the kit for for offroad
extractions, winching, etc. Remember, it's real usefulness is based on it's
instability.  In the garage, I have a 2.5 ton floor jack purchased from Pep
Boys.

I'd say that would be the order I'd purchase them in but YMMV.

RoverOn!

JAB

==                                                                      ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          ==================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)
==                                                                      ==

------------------------------

From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: D90 "locked"
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 96 9:55:28 MST

From: marbourg@lanl.gov (Douglas C. Marbourg)
: Yea, I distroyed my rear diff.  trying to go up something I should'nt
: have attempted without lockers, got in a jam, and the rest is a lesson
: well learned.

Just in case anybody else is planning on blowing a diff, I've got two
genuine LR D90 diffs I'd be willing to part with!  I put in front & rear
ARB lockers, so I don't have much use for the original diffs.  About 12K
miles on them (mostly on-road, less than 50 light off road miles).

Don't know what genuine LR diffs sell for new, but I suspect they are
expensive (you can probably vouch for that, Douglas).  I'll let these go
for $200+shipping each or best offer.

Don't wait for yours to break, buy a spare today! :-)
...or just save a copy of this message for future reference.

: I'm now saving my pennies for ARBs front and rear.  Has
: anyone had bad experiences?  (ie.  solenoid "blowouts",
: non-engagement, leaks etc.?)

Regarding problems with the ARB lockers, I did have a faulty U-seal
that had to be fixed (at my expense @#^$!!), but they've otherwise been
reliable.

--
Jeff Gauvin
"I don't wanna make money, I just love to sell parts!"

------------------------------

Subject: Re: 2WD-4WD 
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 09:08:12 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

Tim Harincar said:

> [BTW, my wife says to me: "You guys must all drive lemons if you
> can't go anywhere without taking a parts catalog..." :-) She was
> joking. I think...]

	I've always carried parts catalogs.  I've never needed to use them
though.  I have had to dive into my spares kit a number of times.  (Like
the time I had to use my spare head gasket in Oregon, on a cold, dark, rainy
night...).   I can just see it now, a bunch of Rovers are in the middle of
nowhere.  Someone breaks down.  Out pops a cellular phone and a call is made
to {British Pacific|Rovers North|Atlantic British|(your favorite parts shop}.
"Send a new block to....Hey guys, where's the nearest post office?...Ummm, can
you deliver that?  Take the dirt road to the east out off Balarat..."  :)

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 12:11:44 -0500
From: Mail Delivery Subsystem <MAILER-DAEMON@mailport.delta-air.com> (by way of
Subject: Returned mail: User unknown

   ----- Transcript of session follows -----
550 mark.kraieski... User unknown

   ----- Unsent message follows -----
        (1.38.193.5/16.2) id AA08955; Tue, 2 Apr 1996 10:33:19 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com
        id WT06326.723; Tue, 02 Apr 1996 10:33:17 EST
Date: 2 Apr 96 10:36:00 -0500
Subject: Used chassis
Ua-Content-Id: Used chassis
P1-Recipient: mark.kraieski
P1-Message-Id: US*ATTMAIL*DELTA-AIR;<bulk.9737.19960402073054@Land-R
Original-Encoded-Information-Types: IA5-Text
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P1-Content-Type: P2

X-To: lro@playground.sun.com
X-Edited-By: LRO-Lite

Dear All,
        More Spring cleaning... We have a great used 88 frame, Galv. rear
cross member, in excellent shape. It is a take out from a coil conversion,
ready to bolt in. Realistic offers??
        Thanks, see ya!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 18:31:47 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: 109 cylinder head gaskets

jve@phaseone.dk wrote:
> My sIII service manual says that if I use a non-retorque (????? - not in my
> dictionary) fabric type gasket.......

The gasket you now have is the "non-retorque" type, which appeared later than the old 
copper type. With the copper type, the gasket bedded in after the engine heated up, 
and the cylinder head bolts had to be re-torqued to the correct force.

The new type, being "non-retorque" does not require retorquing, (believe it or not), 
thus saving time and the necessity of re-adjusting tappets after a second torquing.

It should be used without any grease or sealant. It will also come away cleanly the 
next time you remove the head.:-)

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 12:35:44 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Rover rims

Dear All,
        I'm not pissed Daryl. I just don't have time to research all the
numbers. The Disco rims we use are the steel spare wheel that comes on the
rear door of a US Spec. Disco. You'd know better than I if that is the one
they commonly use on Disco's in OZ. I don't have the part number from them,
the only set I have is at the tire store getting new rubber for our current
SIII project.
        The 231601 we usually import from the UK. We don't find many good
examples here in the US. I believe they only came on early IIA's and II's
here in the US. The majority of 16 inch rims in the US all seem to be the
272309. The US spec. D110 rims and such have a huge offset, they would
stick out a lot. They look great with flares, but of all the rims I have
had my hands on, only the 231601 will just barely squeek by with 7.50x16's
under a Series Rover with D90 or RR axles.
        See ya!
        Oh yeah... More Spring cleaning *although it is snowing today!GRRR*
                1962 109 5 door, Dormobile, RHD
                2.25 petrol
    Missing some of its Dormobile gear, but would make great expedition
vehicle. Solid, straight and ready to go. Nice soild avergae condition
    Offers??? around 8000. US

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 18:45:54 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Shackles Vs hooks

Steve Reddock wrote:
> DO NOT EVER USE A HOOK ON A TOW STRAP OR ROPE FOR OFF ROAD RECOVERY.
> ....... it comes off, releasing all the
> kinetic energy stored in the rope, even in a dead rope.

Good point Steve.

This is also a very good reason why you should not use a Kinetic Energy 
Rope for recovery. These ropes are designed for "Hard Skin" vehicles, 
such as are used by the Military - tanks etc.

The risks are so great with road-going vehicles that their use is 
dangerous. Even with a soft eye passed through a towing pin, there is a 
risk of the towing pin assembly parting company with the vehicle and 
projecting itself through the back or front of one of the vehicles at 
high speed.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 13:50:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Hi-LiftJackInfoRequest

In a message dated 96-04-01 22:50:59 EST, you write:
>Here in New York State, you can find the Hi-Lift at farming supply places
>(like Central Tractor) for about $50

Yeah, here in Wisconsin, thanks to ol' "quick eye Rowe" I bought a HiLift for
34.99, normally priced at 39.99.  THis was at a "Farm and Fleet" type place.

John, D90 WiscoRover

"where IS that mud?  I left it around here somewhere..."

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 14:00:22 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Off Road Day and DownEast Rally

Dear All,
        I've had a lot of calls and emails about the dates for the Off Road
Day and DownEast Rally for 1996.
        Atlantic British published the WRONG dates. The event is happening
on JULY 6 and 7th, 1996. Off Road Day on Sat. the 6th, at ECR's old South
Hope Facility, and The DownEast Land Rover Rally, on Sun. the 7th, at the
Owl's Head Transportaion Museum.
        Any questions email me directly.
        Hope to see you all there on the 6th and 7th, not in June!
        See ya!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Subject: LAND ROVER FOR SALE
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 11:32:09 -0800

We received a call yesterday from an LRO in the Dallas, Tx area who has a
1958 Series II for sale.  The owner, Mike Hutchinson, said the vehicle is in
excellent condition, has been restored to original, RHD, dark green & white.
Asking price $5500 OBO.  Phone # 214-653-8859.  

Standard disclaimers apply :).

------------------------------

From: 73363.427@compuserve.com
Date: 02 Apr 96 14:55:05 EST
Subject: RE: D90 "locked"

>> Just in case anybody else is planning on blowing a diff, I've got two
genuine LR D90 diffs I'd be willing to part with!  I put in front & rear
ARB lockers, so I don't have much use for the original diffs.  About 12K
miles on them (mostly on-road, less than 50 light off road miles). <<

I don't mean to rain on your garage sale, but unless you shelled out the $$$ to
buy new diffs to install the ARB's into, what you were left with is just the
carrier housing with the spider gears. The ring gear from the original unit is
placed on the ARB carrier, and put into the original housing with the pinion. If
someone blows out a diff, they are more than likely going to need a few more
parts.

While I am here, are the D90 half shafts not supposed to break first, in order
to prevent damage like this? On the series vehicles, they are designed to go
first, preventing damage to the diff. Not that it always works, because
sometimes shrapnel gets into the diff and reaks havoc, but It has worked for me
so far (knock on wood)

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 02-Apr-1996

------------------------------

Date: 02 Apr 96 15:11:41 EST
From: Jos Prinsen <100735.2330@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Update: Dixon "two cylinder" Kenner's SIIA 109"

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	"Tom Rowe", INTERNET:trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU
TO:	(unknown), INTERNET:LAND-ROVER-OWNER@PLAYGROUND.SUN.COM
DATE:	1-04-96 9:18

RE:	Re: Update: Dixon "two cylinder" Kenner's SIIA 109"

	id JAA03497; Mon, 1 Apr 1996 09:06:15 -0500
	id GAA26245; Mon, 1 Apr 1996 06:04:24 -0800
From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 08:07:44 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Update: Dixon "two cylinder" Kenner's SIIA 109"
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.26237.19960401060421@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

Dixon brags:
snip
> 	the rear diff doesn't hold oil anymore (last change got me a fist
> 	full of bolts, locking tabs etc (I have a spare in the back for
> 	when it blows, but I'm going to use it to destruction))
snip
Careful on this one Dixon. This happened to my '73 88. The mechanic 
at the LR dealer said it was not uncommon for that year, he'd seen 
several where the lock tabs failed and the crownwheel bolts backed 
out. The problem you get is that as they are only partially backed 
out, they rub on the housing and can cause it to flare out a bit on 
the inside. I had only two bolts back out far enough to do that and I 
had a dickens of a time getting the diff out of the axle housing. 
Once out it was a simple matter to, one at a time, remove the 
crownwheel bolts, clean the holes with BrakeKleene and install new 
bolts with LocTite. Never had another problem.
Have fun doing beside the road. Especially if it trashes the ends of 
your axles so you can't withdraw them from the diff. 

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

=============================================================

Hi, Tom

About the same thing happened to me '71 SIIA 88" last year. 
After a few days of strange rattling the rear differential 
housing was puctured by a bolt from the crown-wheel. after opening
the diff. housing all !! the bolts on the crown wheel were broken 
off. After replacing them i visually inspected the damage on the
crown wheel and measured any inbalance by bolting a thin strip 
of scrap metal-strip onto the pinion-housing and bending that toward
the crownwheel just not touching it. if turned there was 'zero' 
variation in distance between the strip and the crownwheel. (lucky me)
The backlash on the pignon wheel seemed normal. 
After reassembly it worked like before and has been fine for over a year now.

Probable cause was yanking out a small tree in the garden with the
landrover a few weeks earlier.

Greetings, Jos

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 96 15:55:07 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: 110 FS in NJ

I was driving by the local Audi/Porsche/Range-Rover dealr.
They have a red D90 and a 110 on consignment.  20k miles, 
nice and clean.  White, if I remember right.

ask Jeff Carrington (wow! what a name for an exclusive car dealer!)
908-389-1000,  and bring $45,000 with you, 'cause the seller is "firm"!
Whoa, I'd be firm, too, if I had a 110.  never mind..

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 16:02:23 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: What Is A Slab?

On Mon, 1 Apr 1996 Lodelane@aol.com wrote:

> Beg your pardon, but the Resident Aussie here calls a U.S. "case" a "carton".

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]

> Beg your pardon, but the Resident Aussie here calls a U.S. "case" a "carton".
> For what its worth,
a long time ago in the land of Land Rovers someone once had this same 
problem,sort of. I guess he was thinking of flowers for some reason.

---a Rose by any other name......something, something, something...

case, flat, two-four, slab, whatever you want to call it.....
as Hommer Simpson once said so well  "AH.....BEER"

Russ W.
67SWB  "The Pig"

------------------------------

From: howtaw@hg.uleth.ca
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 14:42:45 MST
Subject: failing diffs

Dixon's comment about bolts falling out of a diff houseing sounds like what
happened to a freinds Rover a few years ago.  He had a 59 88" and the rear diff
played this game.  He to decided to keep driving untill it failed.
This is a problem because when the diff does let go it can jam and
lock up your wheels on that axle (all wheels if in four wheel drive).  When
this happens at speed it can range from expensive to dangerous.  

Andrew Howton
109 2door
109 NADA (parting)
110 2door (I'm tring)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 13:23:44 -0800
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Parts catalogue

At 11:58 PM 4/1/96 -0500, you wrote:
>I recently bought a series III and need to find access to parts suppliers,
>preferably close to the west coast, USA, ie Oregon.  There are no local
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>sources.  If anyone could suggest a reasonable source for parts with a phone
>contact number, I would appreciate it.  
British Pacific in Burbank CA is not only reasonable but excellent.  Good
prices, good stock, terrific people.  800 554 4133 or 818 841 8945.

------------------------------

From: Rod Steele <rsteele@sparky.transdata.ca>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 18:43:14 -0500

unsubscribe land-rover-owner Rod Steele rsteele@sparky.transdata.ca

------------------------------

From: Rod Steele <rsteele@sparky.transdata.ca>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 18:43:43 -0500

unsubscribe land-rover-owner rsteele@sparky.transdata.ca

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 20:26:08 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@mail.CandW.lc>
Subject: Re: Jacks

All - I'm not going to ask where to put it ( David Olley might reply) but what 
is a floor jack?
I agree that the jack supplied with the (UK or all?) Defender is a pain to use - 
before there is enough load you have to hold the greasy centre shaft to get the 
ratchet to work in the release direction, and it takes forever to do a wheel 
rotation.
Allan 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 10:07:18 +0900
From: Alan Logue <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: What Is A Slab?

At 16:37 1/4/96 -0500, you wrote:

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
>	a 24.  A case has 12)
>OK guys, lets get it right!!!!
A SLAB is a carton of 24 cans of fizzy brown ale!
The cans are 375ml (dunno what that is in US figures), and they can be had
in Lite and Heavy brews.
Yes they do pass as currency in parts of the country, and are great for
paying "mates rates" deals
Have one on me!
Alan Logue
EXARMY109FFRMP

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 10:07:26 +0900
From: Alan Logue <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: What is this thing called, love?

At 15:12 1/4/96, you wrote:
>With the wiper motor being one of those oft-stared-at items at traffic lights 
>I began wondering what the purpose of that capacitor-looking object attached 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>301-949-9475
>'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there
>I had an Australian Army Series IIA LWB "Fitted For Radio" Land Rover with
the 2 wiper motors on it. The big capacitors are there to prevent radio
interference from the wiper motor. I took mine off and it made no difference
- there was still no interference!!!!

Check the connections are good and tight, and that it has a very good earth,
and see how you go. 
Incidentally, pulling the wiper motors apart is a good idea because I found
that the grease in mine had almost dried out and there was very little
lubrication. New grease made the whole thing run quieter and smoother.
Alan Logue
EXARMY109FFRMP

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 10:07:33 +0900
From: Alan Logue <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: Dash & More Parts Search

At 11:34 1/4/96 -500, you wrote:
>LR Users Group,
>I am seeking a dash for a IIA.  It is the large rectangular type, 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Thanks!  Mark   
>I'd suggest you try some of the UK based parts suppliers who advertise in
LRO such as Craddocks, Keith Gott, Paddock etc. Either that or try a
wrecking yard.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 20:43:51 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@mail.CandW.lc>
Subject: Re: Jacks resolved

All - sorry, no need to reply to the last jack query, I've since deduced from 
another posting about where to use them that floor jack=trolley jack. It's 
evidently not that small a world yet.
Allan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 20:00:27
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: Flik flok flik flok flik flok....

...Sound of a wiper motor on "manual".
If those things really are something from the Golden Age of Wireless then 
they're really out of place. It would take an extra 10kw generator on the 
roof to crank out the necessary voltage to drive a radio loud enough to drown 
out the noise coming from the diesel and the sympathetic vibrations of all 
the other rattling parts when everything is running at idle speed.
With replacement wiper motors going for a cool $195.00 per side, you can bet 
your sweet bippy I'll be babying mine.

Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 20:08:37
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: Do not steal road signs for panel repair

Even though they're made from heavy guage aluminum and are designed to be out 
in weather for years and years, do not be tempted by these tasty gems.
Even if they'd be perfect for a new floor, don't do it.
No matter how much you'd like to fabricate some custom interior doo-dad, do 
not.
Even if it is far far cheaper than wholesale and easier to get, tempt not 
cruel fate.
It's just not worth it. Is it?

Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 20:07:55 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: failing diffs

On Tue, 2 Apr 1996 howtaw@hg.uleth.ca wrote:

> This is a problem because when the diff does let go it can jam and
> lock up your wheels on that axle (all wheels if in four wheel drive).  When
> this happens at speed it can range from expensive to dangerous.  

	The casing is rotten though.  If I toss ing the replacement diff,
	it will be running without oil.  Why blow it away before its time too.
	When the new (to me) rear axle assembly arrives, springs, bushings,
	etc. are all getting changed at once.

------------------------------

From: daviscar@cris.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 20:08:36 -0500 (EST)

HI john

Some time ago you wrote and asked me about trails around here.

You would have sent it to BDaviscar@aol.com

Please email me I have some info you may like.

My nnew address is daviscar@cris.com

Thank you

Sorry to the list for this post but I lost his address.

Bruce
67 88 SIIA Patches

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 11:30:21 -0900
From: scholes@modemss.brisnet.org.au (David  R Scholes)
Subject: Large Bore Exhausts

As my last query elicited a helpful response I thought I'd try you guys
again! My SIII SWB has a Holden 2.25 petrol engine (a common Australian
situation). In an effort to improve performance and fuel consumption I've
been told that a large bore exhaust will help. Can anyone advise on the
suitability of this for LR?

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Large Bore Exhausts
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 11:22:00 +0930 (CST)

David  R Scholes  asks:
> As my last query elicited a helpful response I thought I'd try you guys
> again! My SIII SWB has a Holden 2.25 petrol engine (a common Australian

I dont know about the 138 red being common, crikey they were only used in 
a handful of torana's, but I figure it would be a nice size for a swb rover.

> situation). In an effort to improve performance and fuel consumption I've
> been told that a large bore exhaust will help. Can anyone advise on the
> suitability of this for LR?

Sounds reasonable.  A custom built interference extractor set and 2" 
system worked wonders on my 208 (bored 202)  Improved economy by around 
10%.  (got 18-20mpg after)

Genie make a set of extractors for Holden into L-rover but they didnt fit 
my 6cyl chassis :-(  Still the custom set was much nicer.

You may want to check that the carb is jetted correctly for a 138, it may 
well not be.

Another option would be to get hold of a holden 2bbl manifold and adapt a 
small weber 2bbl carb.  I left such a manifold behind when i moved from 
darwin. I dont know what has happend to it but could try to find out...  
The weber was a bit small for the 208, (a WW2 stromberg as per 186S but 
with re-mapped powervalves was better) but it should be sweet on a 138 
once the jetting is worked out.

cheers 

daryl

------------------------------

From: daviscar@cris.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 21:50:09 -0500 (EST)

HI john

Some time ago you wrote and asked me about trails around here.

You would have sent it to BDaviscar@aol.com

Please email me I have some info you may like.

My nnew address is daviscar@cris.com

Thank you

Sorry to the list for this post but I lost his address.

Bruce
67 88 SIIA Patches

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 18:58:17 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Parts catalogue

At 11:58 PM 4/1/96 -0500, JDSalerno@aol.com wrote:

>I recently bought a series III and need to find access to parts suppliers,
>preferably close to the west coast, USA, ie Oregon.  There are no local
>sources.  If anyone could suggest a reasonable source for parts with a phone
>contact number, I would appreciate it.

It suddenly seems like there are a lot of West coasters with new cars
looking for parts houses.

Try British Pacific.  They are in Southern California and seem to generally
have the best prices overall in the US.  Being a group of car enthusiasts,
they are very quality concious.  The owner, Steve, is in the process of
rebuilding a very tired and poor condition Land Rover for his own use.  His
goal is to have it done in time to drive it up to the Portland All British
Field meet in early Sept.  British Pacific is my #1 choice.  Rovers North
is my #2.  They have knowledgable people but are expensive.  I use Atlantic
British as a last resource because I have had quality problems with a lot
of the stuff I purchased from them.  But that was a few years ago and they
have been talking quality quite a bit lately.  I've just been happy with
British Pacific and have had no need to go back & experiment with Atlantic
British

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com   <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS

Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 18:58:28 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Jack For A Series III SWB

At  6:24 PM 4/2/96 -0900, David  R Scholes wrote:

>My 1978 SIII SWB has come to me without a jack. Great until my first flat
>comes along. I've recieved all sorts of different advice on what sort of
>jack to be and I'm confused as to which is the best option. Any kind souls
>out there prepared to share their experiences and give me the benefit of
>their advice?

A Hi Lift jack, while it looks like a REAL off roader's jack is nearly
useless and DANGEROUS on the rear of a series Land Rover with a unmodified
civilian frame rear crossmember.

The rear frame member is slanted and there is no place on the outer edge to
set the jack.  If you go inboard, the trailer hitch will keep you from
centering it.  You need to use the jack inboard off center.  This means its
got to be cocked or you need someone leaning on the side that the car will
want to fall to as you lift up the entire rear end.  If you are not
carefull you can get yourself seriously damaged.

The Hi Lift jack works on the front  if your front bumper is in very good shape.

All that said, I carry a Hi Lift jack because it is easy to use.  Its
capable of lifting the car higher that I could imagine needing AND I have
modified my car's rear crossmember.  I have added a wedge shaped channel to
square off the rear cross member like the military rear crossmember.  And I
have added a small downward facing  peice of 'U' chanel as a pocket for the
jack.  I can now place the jack along the side at the rear and jack up the
109 one rear wheel at a time.  It a LOT more stable.  i would put a jack
point on the outside edge of the front bumper too but it would ruin the
galvanizing.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com   <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS

Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 19:07:07 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Jack For A Series III SWB

>On Tue, 2 Apr 1996, David R Scholes wrote:
>> My 1978 SIII SWB has come to me without a jack. Great until my first flat
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>        For my LWB I usually have a floor jack and a jack-all in the back.
>        Sissor and bottle jacks are for the birds.
When I lost both right rear 'U' bolts 2/3s of the way up a canyon, I used
my Highlift for the body and a bottle jack got the axle.  This was a two
jack job and 2 hi lifts wouldn't work.  A floor jack is super for home (I
have one too).

But if you need to control both the body and an axle housing minus wheel,
its best to have two jacks & one should be able to get into low places

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com   <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS

Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet

------------------------------

From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh.Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 15:15:41 +1200
Subject: Re: Jack For A Series III SWB

T-A writes...
> The rear frame member is slanted and there is no place on the outer edge to
> set the jack.  If you go inboard, the trailer hitch will keep you from
> centering it.  You need to use the jack inboard off center.  This means its
> got to be cocked or you need someone leaning on the side that the car will
> want to fall to as you lift up the entire rear end.

True but the cross member has a flat spot next to the spring hanger.
I find that jacking from that spot nicely lifts a single rear wheel
of my 88".  Could be different for a 109" I guess.

-- 
Hugh Grierson   hugh_grierson@trimble.co.nz  

------------------------------

From: "David J. Mercer" <merkin@sierra.net>
Subject: RE: Do not steal road signs for panel repair
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 17:21:19 -0800

------ =_NextPart_000_01BB20C9.9BDD2F60
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

IS THIS FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE?

----------
From: 	WILLIAM ADAMS[SMTP:IIIDmentia@gnn.com]
Sent: 	Tuesday, April 02, 1996 12:08 PM
Subject: 	Do not steal road signs for panel repair

Even though they're made from heavy guage aluminum and are designed to be out 
in weather for years and years, do not be tempted by these tasty gems.
Even if they'd be perfect for a new floor, don't do it.
No matter how much you'd like to fabricate some custom interior doo-dad, do 
not.
Even if it is far far cheaper than wholesale and easier to get, tempt not 
cruel fate.
It's just not worth it. Is it?

Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 22:24:27 -0500
From: michelbe@login.net (Michel)
Subject: Re: Do not steal road signs for panel repair

Bill sayz:

>Even though they're made from heavy guage aluminum and are designed to be out 
>in weather for years and years, do not be tempted by these tasty gems.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>cruel fate.
>It's just not worth it. Is it?

Actually, my 109 SW Nada had a custom made sunvisor made out of a "Maximum
50" speed limit sign. It was painted green, of course. Simply cut in half
and it was perfect for the windscreen width. Very sturdy. Indestructible,
except for a metal scissor tool, and it did hide the sun. Barely legal.

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke, Quebec

1963 109 PU (Rudolph)
1968 109 SW (in the works)
1973 88 SW (21st century project) 

------------------------------

From: SACME@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 23:26:15 -0500
Subject: Prep for joint washers/gaskets

Refitted the water pump on my 2.25 the other day.  It's always been a pain to
really get the "faying" (old boatbuilder's term for surfaces that are to be
joined) surfaces free of the old gasket/joint washer, crud, rust, etc..  I
think I have found the way.  The 3-M Clean-N-Strip wheel (kind of a stiff,
large-pored, sponge wheel impregnated with fine carbide) on an electric drill
does a great job!  I was even able to maneuver the drill and wheel to get
every bit of the critical surfaces on the front of the engine block,
thermostat block, bypass, etc.  Try it, you'll like it!

What's the lro conventional wisdom out there on the use of Form-a-Gasket (#2
specifically) on paper joint washers - it seems to work for me so far?  I've
even used it when I didn't have a paper washer or any gasket material to cut
one from.      

Doug (there's got to be a better way) Scott
2 ea. Series III and whatever happened to the BB?  Trevor, are you out
there...hello?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 01:02:09 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@mail.CandW.lc>
Subject: Re: beyond  suitable oil

Pat - it helps to know that you are also a LRO,

First: Land Rover Owner International mag is the one of choice. To find out 
about subscriptions, fax (int)  44 1379 898244. Although it is expensive to have 
international subscriptions, it is obvious from the number of references to it 
that most people on the LR net subscribe.

2nd: the transfer case problem is as follows. LR found that there was not enough 
lubrication of the mainshaft in the LT230 transfer case that is attached to the 
R380 gearbox on the 300Tdi (which is also fitted to the NAS Defender). The 
solution is the warranty addition of a splash disk that is inserted into the 
rear of the transfer box, via the PTO (power takeoff) plate. If an LR agency has 
done the warranty work, then the factory instruction sheet requires that they 
paint a yellow cross on the PTO plate. (BTW, that is the roughly 6" diameter 
disk attached by 6 bolts to the rear of the transfer case right next to the hand 
brake housing). I assume that, like me, your mater in the Philippines has no LR 
dealer available to do warranty work. You should request from your UK 
intermediary an LR instruction sheet identified as *comp. code 415*, subject 
*Transmission Clonk/Backlash Due To Mainshaft Spline Wear*, plus the free 
modification kit that consists of an aluminium disk, a rubber O-ring, and a tube 
of silicone seal.
The 6 bolts that hold the PTO plate come from the factory well adhered with 
Loctite, and the mechanic *must* use a 1/2 inch *hex* socket only to remove them 
or he will round off the bolts. Otherwise the instruction sheet is 
straightforward. Sort of.
Allan Smith
300 Tdi 90
St. Lucia

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 02:57:10 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Jack For A Series III SWB

David asks...

>My 1978 SIII SWB has come to me without a jack. Great until my first flat
>comes along. I've recieved all sorts of different advice on what sort of
>jack to be and I'm confused as to which is the best option.
-

A couple of people have mentioned a bottle jack. Great for changing a tire
but not much use otherwise. However, it does stow in a small space - always
a consideration in an '88.

I use a jack that looks like a bottle jack but it is totally mechanical
inside and is operated with a crank. It's about five inches in diameter and
pretty stable and says (gasp) Nissan on the base.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 02:57:13 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: re: 2WD-4WD

Tim sez....

>[BTW, my wife says to me: "You guys must all drive lemons if you
>can't go anywhere without taking a parts catalog..." :-) She was
>joking. I think...]
-

Actually, we carry the catalogs around so we Oooh and Ahhh over all the
goodies we want to buy. Or maybe it's just to look at all the pretty pictures...

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 02:57:17 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re:Slabs exchange rate...

Ah.. the slab syndrome... 

>> So, how many slabs is that??
>Hey I've got a history of stuffing these calculations up :-)
>What sort of slabs, Real ones with 24 cans/bottles or some of those new 
>ones with only 18 ?

-

Well, real ones, of course. So, I have a proposition for one and all. In the
interest of good will and exchange rates I would like to compile a list of
local currency prices for a slab from around the world. So, if you have a
mind to, send me a note with the cost in your local currency for a slab of
whatever passes for the favorite beer in your area. We'll assume here a slab
is 24 cans/bottles of about 12 oz or 375ml each.

Now, I realize that there are some who prefer homebrew - personally, I
prefer a pint of Guinness at the local but for the purposes of this list I
think the prices at the local supermarket/beer barn are what is called for.

Send your messages to me at   landrvr@blacdisc.com   so we keep the LRO
traffic down, and the list police happy...

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 10:30:42 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Jack For A Series III SWB

With all this advice on jacking a Series vehicle, is anybody going to 
mention the *absolute* necessity of putting the vehicle into 4WD and 
1st gear when jacking a rear wheel (in my experience very few bother to 
carry wheel chocks, though these have to be the best solution whenever 
jacking a big vehicle).
Understanding how the parking brake and diffs work will show why this is 
necessary.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

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