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From: Sekerere@aol.com
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 11:39:35 -0500
Subject: Anyone in or around London

This is a NON LAND ROVER CONTENT MESSAGE. If there is anyone on the net who
lives in or close to London, and wouldn't mind a stop in Herne Hill in their
travels, please contact me at SEKERERE@AOL.COM

Thanks

Chris Whitehead
1966 Series IIA 88" "Antichrist"-in for major restoration and repairs

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Mar 96 14:56:20 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: NH Spring Mud run... Date Change 

All,

Those interested in the Spring off-road run up here in New Hampshire. I have 
changed the date to help a large number of LRO attend, seems that the last 
Saturday of April is a busy day. 

The date has been changed to Saturday May 4th 1996. 

Please pass along to anyone you may have told not on the lists. 

Leaving Keene NH at 10 AM SHARP !!!!!! More info e-mail me. 

Mark

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 15:16:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Mike Bonaducci

Thanks Chris...

Rgds
Steve

------------------------------

From: Rod Steele <rsteele@sparky.transdata.ca>
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 15:19:52 -0500

unsubscribe land-rover-owner Rod Steele <rsteele@sparky.transdata.ca>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 08:59:41 +1000 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: Land Rover skunk works project

http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/page/1.html

Lloyd

------------------------------

From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Rover-top tents
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 00:58:02 GMT

Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS) wrote:

> want to get a tent for the roof of the LR. 

Roof tents aren't that difficult. You just need any dome tent (even a
cheap one) that is constructed from long fibreglass or carbon poles,
bent over into arches and tensioned by the groundsheet.  I can
assemble our tent on the ground, then lift it onto a roof one-handed.
The strutcture is entirley self-supporting, it doesn't need to be
pegged into the ground to tension it. The webbing straps that the
poles fit into even have D rings on the end, allowing easy tie-down.

------------------------------

From: Deezilbob@aol.com
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 20:00:21 -0500
Subject: Jim Pappas

I need to get Jim's home phone #,  if any one knows it, please post to the
digest or send direct to me. Thanks, D.B.

------------------------------

Subject: Update: Dixon "two cylinder" Kenner's SIIA 109"
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 17:08:53 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

	Some of you who were on the list years ago may recall the race between
TeriAnn Wakeman and Dixon Kenner to see who would get their Rover running
first.  For weeks those of us on the list got to read daily reports of the 
evening's activities for each.  I forget who actually won (and it really
doens't matter).  Since then we've heard bits and pieces of TeriAnn and her
109".  Dixon has been strangely quiet.  So I thought I'd pass on the masses
the current state of Dixon's SIIA 109".  (This one even tops when he won the
"Lugnut" Award by getting around to changing his oil filter after 20 years.)

	And now I think I'll duck because Dixon is going to be coming 
after me with a base ball bat.  Luckily, he lives 2000 miles away  :)

Ben (who knows full well that he is throwing stones in a glass house) Smith

------- Forwarded Message

Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 22:55:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Dixon's trouble

Dale Desprey reveiled:
> > A compression test on Dixon's Big Green Beastiality revealed a compression
> > of 120, 0, 5, 120.  This explains alot.  

	Gets better...  We pulled the head since when we retested the 
	0 and 5 with some 20w50 poured in there, the compression results
	stayed the same.  Ted had a spare head that could be used, so
	let's slam that one on...  Pulled the old head and started to
	clean up the face of the block.  A nice crack between the
	two centre cylinders.  (Later, cleaning the original head
	I found that it was cracked in the same place)  The gasket
	is a sight to behold.  Ted had never seen one burnt so badly.
	We may frame it and make it a runner-up award for the lugnut
	or into some mechanical award.  The burnt area of the gasket
	(the bits missing) you can put your fist through.  Considering
	on the way out to almonte, the 109 looked like some WWII destroyer
	laying down a smoke screen, something had to be done.  (We had
	changed the valve cover breather with another and then the
	smoke poured out.  Previous one must have been cloggd up.)

	So block is scrap, but the 109 made it back to Ottawa this evening.
	The repair is in the catagory of your classic short term bodge
	that allows you to go from A to B slowly.  We will see how long this
	lasts with a cracked block.

	An upside to this mess is that the thermostat housing isn't
	leaking anymore,  The downside is that the water pump is now
	leaking... <sigh>

> Maybe there will be a good engine in the lot.

	A good engine?  That would ruin my reputation!  At least I wouldn't
	get gassed driving the 109 around, it would have some acceleration,
	better gas milage, go faster, could climb a hill without down 
	shifting all the time, better that a quart of oil every 100 miles
	or less...  Might even be able to tune the engine and it would
	stay in tune!

------- End of Forwarded Message

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re:Slabs exchange rate...
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 11:04:56 +0930 (CST)

Mike Loiodice questions:

> So, how many slabs is that??

Hey I've got a history of stuffing these calculations up :-)

What sort of slabs, Real ones with 24 cans/bottles or some of those new 
ones with only 18 ?

Of course there is always the Iced coffee conversion factory too.....

cheers

-- 

Daryl (Pauls Iced coffee rules) Webb

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 17:59:04 -0800
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (Sandy Cooper)
Subject: Hard top retro-fit

Hi,  I have the vents to fit into my regular 88 hard top...  What I would
need to do though is to find someone that could give me exacting landmarks
or precise measurments to cut the holes(gulp).  Our little rover has been in
the family for 20 years now and I don`t want to make a blunder  as she`s a
fine, clean example the land rover legend.      P.S. I don`t have the roof
skin yet so there`s no way to compare for line-up.  Perhaps I should wait
untill I buy the safari skin.
Thanks,   John Cooper

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 19:58:22 -0600
Subject: The log, week 12

Tim's Frame Over Log and Personal Journey Through Hell(tm), part XII

Just when I though things were going good...

First, the accomplishments:

I got the gas tank mounted on the new frame.

Now, the rest of it:

First, it was the damn weather. I'm not looking for too much sympathy
because I know everyone has had a lousy winter, but it really sucks
to have a rotton winter when your trying to rebuild a rover in an
uninsulated garage.

Monday and tuesday it was 12 inches of snow and below zero by the
time I got home from work, and I'm about out of things I can do in
the house. "Normal" high & low for this time is 50 and 30 - we set
record lows *again*...

Wednesday and thursday I was here in my office working on a hot project
so those nights went pfffffttt! (as I will be when I'm done typing this.)

Friday we we committed to social plans that couldn't be avoided (and
people, I tried).

So Saturday I move the gas tank, which takes maybe an hour or so
(because I had to de-dirt it...).

Then I decided it was high time to work on the transfer case. You
may recall from these posts that one of the first things I managed
to do when I started this was get the truck jammed in 4 wheel
drive. I now know the causes, there were two. The first was, of
course, my arch-enemy: Rust. What had happened was that in the year
since I bought it the lever arm on the end of the 4 wheel
drive selector (yellow knob) had fused to the pivot pin thats bolted
into the output shaft housing. This is likely because in the year I've
owned it, I never used 4 wheel dive. When my friend and I remove the
roof, I needed to turn it around in the driveway so I could back it
into position. I promptly got it stuck on some ice, and tried to
get it into 4WD to get me free. When I tried that, I couldn't get
the pin to drop down to use 4WD high. I got out using low range,
but the arm was jammed.

A week or so later, while trying to free the arm that was crusted and
jammed against the housing, I managed to shear off the pivot pin.
I knew it was going to be a drag to fix it, but I had no idea how much.

So I took off the high-low lever, and the dust cover for the selector
shafts, and found them full of crud (the other likely cause of my
problems).

I don't know whether or not this was a good idea, but I first tried
to get the old bolt part out while the output shaft housing was still
attached to the rest of the gearbox. For this I bought a 90 degree
chuck for my drill and tried to drill a hole in the center to use an
easy out to get the bolt out. No dice. Either my hole was off center
(likely) or the bolt was fused (also likely). So I opted to drill the
whole thing out and re-tap it and use something else for a pin. That
was a keen idea until I broke the tap off in the hole. I think a)
the hole was a tish too small, and b) I was pulling on the tap
because I was working it from the side. I also had never really used
a tap before, so I'm sure operator error is mostly to blame.

I'm ready to take it to a machine shop now. Yes, I know, I should
have done that in the first place.

Ok, some questions.

1. The haynes manual says I have to get the transfer case off before
removing the output shaft assembly. Well, I don't really want to
get the *assembly* off, just the cover. Can I pull the front flange
off and just slide the cover off over the shafts? Is there enough
clearence to get the cover off, or is that why I have to remove the
transfer case first?

God, please don't make me take the transmission apart for a f**cking
$1 bolt. If this is so, this is the *worst* bit of LR engineering
I've yet encountered. That pin was too small to be on an exposed
part of the truck. I really have no experience with these kind of
delicate mechanics that will be required if I have to go into the
transmission.  Well, I did take apart the lawn mower engine in shop
once about a million years ago, but thats the closest I've ever come.
And I know I don't have the proper tools... That was the reason I
tried to do this with the cover on in the first place. Anyone want
to talk me through this via email?

2. I still don't really know if I'm out of 4 wheel drive or not. I
believe I am, all the selector shafts move in the correct fashon. But,
with the truck in high 2WD, and the front end jacked up, if I spin
one wheel, shouldn't the front drive shaft turn? My shaft doesn't
spin, but I get the one wheel going forward, one going backward
business. Forgive my ignorance of drive-train mechanics - the very
reason I was avoiding diassembling this stuff in the first place.

Lastly...

I noticed that my front driver wheel is canted bottom inwards, like
this:

|  /

Those two lines represet my wheels when looking at them from the
front. Not as severe as that, of course, but noticable. Is this the
'toe in' that was being discussed a while ago in the alignment thread?
How is that corrected? I'm sure its difficult and expensive, right?

Can I be done now? I saw a guy driving a SIII 88 SW while I was
going to get my drill chuck; I wished I was driving my LR instead
of the saturn... First series LR I've seen in 6 months other than
mine...

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Subject: Re: The log, week 12 
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 18:21:45 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

Tim Haricar asked:

(I don't recall the answers to your other questions off the top op
my head)

(I don't recall the answers to your other questions off the top op
 I noticed that my front driver wheel is canted bottom inwards, like
 this:
 |  /
 Those two lines represet my wheels when looking at them from the
 front. Not as severe as that, of course, but noticable. Is this the
 'toe in' that was being discussed a while ago in the alignment thread?
 How is that corrected? I'm sure its difficult and expensive, right?
(I don't recall the answers to your other questions off the top op

	Actually on the Series Rover both wheels should be slighly canted 
inward at the bottom.  If looking at it from the front, it should look like 
this:   \   /   (of course less severely than the ASCII art shows) 

	The angle is set by he swivel pin housing.  There is now adjustment
for this (Assuming the that pin and bearings there are ok).  If you
ever notice that your front wheels look like this /  \, then you probably
bent your axle case (as I did a few years back on a large bump).

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 21:23:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: The log, week 12

Tim,

> with the truck in high 2WD, and the front end jacked up, if I spin
> one wheel, shouldn't the front drive shaft turn? My shaft doesn't
> spin, but I get the one wheel going forward, one going backward
> business. Forgive my ignorance of drive-train mechanics - the very

     
    If you have both wheels off the ground and you are really in 2WD,
    then it's just a matter of where the least resistance is.  You turn
    one road wheel; if it's easier for the other wheel to turn backwards
    via the diff than for the (even disengaged) output gearing of the
    transfer case to turn, then it's the wheel that will turn.

    With the gearbox in any gear, have someone else hold the other wheel
    while you spin one.  If the front driveshaft turns, you're in 2WD. 
    Even simpler- YOU spin the front driveshaft by hand.  If you can,
    it's in 2WD, if you can't, the transfer case has it in lockstep with
    the rear driveshaft and gearbox, i.e. you're in 4WD.

    Duncan

------------------------------

From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh.Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 14:46:40 +1200
Subject: Re: The log, week 12

Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS) writes...
> with the truck in high 2WD, and the front end jacked up, if I spin
> one wheel, shouldn't the front drive shaft turn? My shaft doesn't
> spin, but I get the one wheel going forward, one going backward

That's fine.  The prop shaft turns at the average of the speed of
the two wheels (modulo the gearing in the diff).  Get your
beautiful assistant to hold one wheel still as you spin the other
and the prop shaft should turn.

> 'toe in' that was being discussed a while ago in the alignment thread?
> How is that corrected? I'm sure its difficult and expensive, right?

The tie rod that connects the two front wheel steering arms is 
adjustable.  One tie rod end has a RH thread and the other a LH
thread, so if you loosen the clamps and turn the rod with a pipe
wrench or similar then it will lengthen or shorten.  No disassembly
required.  Unless yours is frozen, a strong likelyhood!

Good luck.
-- 
Hugh Grierson   hugh_grierson@trimble.co.nz  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 18:49:57 -0800
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Hi/Low Light Switch Connections?

I'm hoping someone can save me the effort of some trial and error 
testing.  I'm trying to figure out how to connect the wiring for the 
main beam and dip beam to the floor switch on a SIIA. I've substituted a 
FORD (gasp!) switch for the LUCAS (hissss).  The problem I have is 
figuring out which wire/spade connector goes to which terminal on the 
switch (no instructions anywhere - parts packet or books).  As a 
starting guess I'd say white on blue on one side; red on blue on the 
other and blue on the upper center terminal.  Wrong??

Thanks for any input.

Jeremy

------------------------------

Subject: Re: The log, week 12
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 19:03:29 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

	The Major seems to be mangling text more so than usual, so I'm
reposting this so that people can sort out who said what.

------- Forwarded Message
(I don't recall the answers to your other questions off the top op
my head)

Tim Haricar asked:
-----begin Tim's text------
 I noticed that my front driver wheel is canted bottom inwards, like
 this:
 |  /
 Those two lines represet my wheels when looking at them from the
 front. Not as severe as that, of course, but noticable. Is this the
 'toe in' that was being discussed a while ago in the alignment thread?
 How is that corrected? I'm sure its difficult and expensive, right?
-----end Tim's text------

	Actually on the Series Rover both wheels should be slighly canted 
inward at the bottom.  If looking at it from the front, it should look like 
this:   \   /   (of course less severely than the ASCII art shows) 

	The angle is set by he swivel pin housing.  There is now adjustment
for this (Assuming the that pin and bearings there are ok).  If you
ever notice that your front wheels look like this /  \, then you probably
bent your axle case (as I did a few years back on a large bump).

------- End of Forwarded Message

Ben

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 23:14:40 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Subject: Re: Update: Dixon "two cylinder" Kenner's SIIA 109"

On Sun, 31 Mar 1996, Benjamin Allan (soon RIP) Smith wrote:

> 109".  Dixon has been strangely quiet.  So I thought I'd pass on the masses
> the current state of Dixon's SIIA 109".  (This one even tops when he won the
> "Lugnut" Award by getting around to changing his oil filter after 20 years.)

	It was time to wash it in varsol & replace...

> 	And now I think I'll duck because Dixon is going to be coming 
> after me with a base ball bat.  Luckily, he lives 2000 miles away  :)

	Coming to the Birthday Party this year (he innocently asks)?

> Ben (who knows full well that he is throwing stones in a glass house) Smith

	And will no doubt blame the PO on the lengthy list I could post...

> ------- Forwarded Message

| Dale Desprey reveiled:
| > > A compression test on Dixon's Big Green Beastiality revealed a 
| > > compression of 120, 0, 5, 120.  This explains alot.  

	Actually 110, 0, 5, 120.  45, 10, 25, 45 before we slamed some 
	new rings in it two years ago. (yeah, never checked the head
	or block...)

> 	is a sight to behold.  Ted had never seen one burnt so badly.
> 	We may frame it and make it a runner-up award for the lugnut
> 	or into some mechanical award.  The burnt area of the gasket

	Got a good laugh at the Maple Syrup Rally today.  Probably is going
	to be framed to be some sort of nmechanical genius award (don't
	worry, there are other candidates besides my self...)  This was 
	the $100 engine out of a derelict 109sw that we slammed into the 
	109 as a temporary measure, er, four or five years ago. 

> 	on the way out to almonte, the 109 looked like some WWII destroyer
> 	laying down a smoke screen, something had to be done.  (We had
> 	changed the valve cover breather with another and then the
> 	smoke poured out.  Previous one must have been cloggd up.)

	Well, option one was actually just put it back together and put
	the other breather cap back on.  So there was a bit of oil in the
	blow-by coming out of the crank vent (I'll never have a rusty
	front frame or bulkhead).  Lacking a block either the thing goes
	back together and gets driven, or it sits until I can find a new
	(to me) block to toss in.  This way it is still mobile.

> 	So block is scrap, but the 109 made it back to Ottawa this evening.
> 	The repair is in the catagory of your classic short term bodge
> 	that allows you to go from A to B slowly.  We will see how long this
> 	lasts with a cracked block.

	Actually, an angle grider and some liberal application of JB Weld
	may just do... :-)

	Lasted the 60 some miles up to the rally, went on (a theoretically) 
	light off-road and made it back.  Water consumption was only 	
	a gallon up, one gallon for the off-road and about a half gallon
	back to ottawa (yeah, strange).  Temp up and back was about 50c,
	on one portion of the light off-road (about a 3/4 mile up hill
	climb in deep corn snow) where progress at times was ten feet 
	forward, five back and then forward again it got up to about
	70c (and probably toasted the gasket again...) [some vehicles
	made it up this section with greater ease (two didn't), but I had
	at least 1,500 pounds on them.  Under the couple feet of corn snow
	was some ice which I dug down to find.  Conditions where for once
	wide, balloon-type tires would make a great difference. The off-road, 
	down old logging roads, abandoned rail line, was probably only about
	20 miles in the wilderness/forest.  Did have 11 LR's there and about
	sixty people.  Had one D90, a Suzuki, and 60's Land Cruiser to round
	off the 4x4 brigade.  Best off-road was probably Gordon Bernius'
	early IIA military 109.  Worst?  Not me... :-)]

	For the OVLR folk on the list who weren't there today, Harry only
	broke the fairleads and snapped his winch cable.  Oh yeah, he 
	managed to drive straight into a tree too.

	Hey, look at how well I've done thus far with two cylinders, cracked
	head and block, and can	still get 65mph out of it on the flats...  
	As per the quiet, in five years we are on our third rad, second
	petrol tank, nth set of brake shoes, second hydraulic system, Weber,
	the rear diff doesn't hold oil anymore (last change got me a fist
	full of bolts, locking tabs etc (I have a spare in the back for
	when it blows, but I'm going to use it to destruction)) and some
	other stuff rebuilt (starter, generator etc), replaced with other 
	pre-owned stuff...  But it runs... (kinda...)  Still have the 1/2"
	spanner in the exhaust system, but that's another story...  
	Conclusion... Try this on an aluminium block and se how long you 
	last.

	Now, where's the Ben file...  Let's sort my directory on file
	size, this should be near the top (decending order of course)...

> ------- End of Forwarded Message

	Rgds from the Tundra,

	Dixon

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Rover Rims
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 14:07:11 +0930 (CST)

Mike Smith tells us:

> Ron the part numbers are 231601, max offset old style rims.
Snip
> If you use the more commonly found 272309 rim, they will stick out,
Snip
>         You can also use the Discovery steel spare rim. This has a bit of a
> custom look, but still has the max. offset. It gives the same results as
> the 231601. The part numbers have been updated, the 272309's are now
> numbered NRC7578PM, and the 231601's have a PM added to the end.

Uumm something doesnt add up here Mike, or at least not to me.  I'm not
immediately familiar with the 231601 rims but 272309's are not equivalent
to nrc7578's at least not in OZ.  I thought that in 16 X 5.5 the 1 13/16"
(46mm) offset of the 272309's was the furthest in you could go. (i have no
idea if these will clear rangie discs) The later series III rims have the
same offset as 16 x 6 rangie, 16 x5.5 110, and 16 x 7 disco rims,
specifically 1 5/16" (33mm). So fitting the disco rim will not help over a
stock rangie rim, except that it *looks* like there is less offset due to
the rims design. (same as a D110 *looks* like more offset that an sIII. 

The following is scrounged from an article I posted last year, its in the 
may-95 LRO-digest

Subject: Disco wheels (reprise)
 
 The following are measurements from the floor to the nave plate and are
 approximate.  (they are also in mm but I'm sure you can convert)
 
 What	  Disco             D110 ('85)         pre'68 109  ('58)
 size	  16x7x33           16x5.5x33            16x5.5 
nom. off.  33mm               33mm                46mm 
part #      ?               NRC 7578             272309
 
Inside    140                120                  135
 
outside    70                 50                  40
 
Cheers

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: Defendr90@aol.com
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 23:58:30 -0500
Subject: Military Recovery Hoops

Anyone have an inexpensive source for military recovery hoops?

Brian Cramer
Mt. Laurel, NJ
"94 NAS D90 (LRNA #1251)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 21:06:19 -0800
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Temp. Guage vs. Thermo. Switch?

Yup, I've yet another question on 2.25 l setups.

The new engine I've installed in Mathilda (SIIA 109SW) is a newer block 
than the original '65 block.  One consequence of this is that the 
triangular (3 screw) mount for the thermostat mixture switch on the left 
(looking forward from the driver's seat) of the block near the front is 
no longer present.  The new thermostat mixture switch which is a 
simple screw in variety goes in the right front.  All very well and 
good.  However, the problem is the old block had a capillary temperature 
guage installed at the location now required for the new thermo. mix 
switch.  The current result is I've nowhere to install the temperature 
guage probe (about 1" long).

Has anyone else come upon this problem?  How did you solve it?

At the moment the only solution I can see is finding, or more likely 
machining, an adaptor to allow insertion of both the temperature probe 
and the thermo. switch.  I'm not too keen on this as I don't think it 
would allow terribly good circulation of coolant to the thermo. switch, 
implying it would not perform accurately.

Am I missing something basic (who me?) ??

Is there an alternate location for either sensor? 

Is there a means of installing a replacement electrical temperature 
guage?

Once again, thanks to all for any responses.

Cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 21:17:54 -0800
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: SOFT - Factory Smoke Signals (SIIA)

In the process of checking/rewiring the front lighting system on 
Mathilda (SIIA 109) I noticed that the factory set up is prone to 
shorting the system out.  I guess this classifies as a Stupid Original 
Factory Trick (SOFT).

The factory wiring to the indicator and side lights is crimped to the 
top of the front wing panels.  The crimping takes the form of triangular 
punches from the seam metal that are folded down on top of the wires.  
In both cases (left and right) the crimping had breached the coating of 
the wiring.  ("Fortunately" in both cases it was the ground wires).

I thought anyone whose experienced problems in this area might be 
interested in this.

Cheers,

Jeremy

P.S.  The PO had pulled a major SPOT on the wing wiring - I'll have to 
described this at some point.  [I knew the fuel guage wire (black on 
green) attached to a bare portion of the main beam wire and disappearing 
into the wing didn't look quite right :)]  There seems to have been a 
bit of an electrical fire in there at one point - not apparently related 
to the LR factory SOFT.

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Update: Dixon "two cylinder" Kenner's SIIA 109" 
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 21:41:54 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

  
On Sun, 31 Mar 1996, Benjamin Allan (soon RIP) Smith wrote:
>       And now I think I'll duck because Dixon is going to be coming 
>       after me with a base ball bat.  Luckily, he lives 2000 miles away  :)

Dixon responded:
>       Coming to the Birthday Party this year (he innocently asks)?

	I dunno.  That's a lot of gas and I have to decide if new 16"
rims and tyres are more important than a road trip.  (Ok, I have to figure
out if my tyres can last until after the road trip).  I don't want to show
up with steel belt showing like I did last year. :)   And I'm definitely
not going if my overdrive isn't fixed by then.   

	The LRO article says to push the mainshaft out towards the front 
and through the output gearshaft.  Well it won't budge (it will spin though).
So I need to find me a press to force that $185 piece out of a $275 piece...

On Sun, 31 Mar 1996, Benjamin Allan (soon RIP) Smith wrote:
>    Ben (who knows full well that he is throwing stones in a glass house) 
>    Smith

Dixon responded:
>    And will no doubt blame the PO on the lengthy list I could post...

	But of course.  Marty was a dreaded PO.  Maybe I should post some
"before" photos on the web so show everyone the condition that Dora was in
when I got her.

Dixon:
> 	For the OVLR folk on the list who weren't there today, Harry only
> 	broke the fairleads and snapped his winch cable.  Oh yeah, he 
> 	managed to drive straight into a tree too.

	You can always trust "Headwound" Harry to provide some entertainment.

Dixon:
> 	Now, where's the Ben file...  Let's sort my directory on file
> 	size, this should be near the top (decending order of course)...

	You mean all of the articles I wrote for the newsletter?  Want to 
post the one of me loosing the clutch on the I-405 freeway in Los Angeles 
during a typical rush hour traffic jam?   

	BTW Dixon: if you ever get a copy of the latest AW, look on the
bottom of page 7.  The 88" in the "deep rut" is my Dora.  And for the rest of
you: if you look at the group of 3 people just to the right of my 88",
Dixon is the one in the middle.

	And now I await Dixon's postings.   <big grin>  	

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 10:03:09 +0100
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Differential abuse

>.  If you get the vehicle 
>stuck and are in low range, use high rpm, the torque to all four wheels
>is not the same unless all four are turning at the same rpm.  What happens
>is one front wheel and one rear wheel start spinning, then suddenly grab.

Exactly. I believe that the LR driver's manual specifically warns you not to
use wide throttle openings in low range.

>The answer- install locking front and rear differentials.  Then the torque is
>equal at all times, no wheel spin and sudden start and stop loads.
>is not the same unless all four are turning at the same rpm.  What happens
The real answer is not to mash the gas pedal when you are stuck. Spinning
wheels just damage your tyres and drivetrain, digs the vehicle in, and make
the subsequent recovery much more difficult.

Cheers!
             Tom
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Thomas D.I. Stevenson                          gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station,      Tel 01475 530581
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland.       Fax 01475 530601
-----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 10:55:46 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Hi/Low Light Switch Connections?

Jeremy Bartlett wrote:
> The problem I have is figuring out which wire/spade connector goes to 
> which terminal on the switch

For God's sake, don't cut the Red!!!!!!

Sounds like you need to get yourself a multimeter. Very handy for 
sorting out Mr Lucas and others.

In the absence of this little luxury, try making yourself a simple 
circuit tester with some wires, crocodile clips and a 12v lightbulb. A 
bulbholder is great, but wires soldered onto the bulb and taped up does 
the job just as well. Not only can you then sort out switch terminals, 
but you can test fuses and also use it to set the distributor 
statically. It's also useful as an underbonnet light for when things go 
wrong at night!

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 10:13:20 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Hi/Low Light Switch Connections?

>In the absence of this little luxury, try making yourself a simple
>circuit tester with some wires, crocodile clips and a 12v lightbulb.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>statically. It's also useful as an underbonnet light for when things go
>wrong at night!
Couldnt agree more.....The problem with a multimeter(bitter experience
speaks:-( ),is that it will indicate a voltage present at a certain point,
but the confounded whatever-it-is *still* wont work,because the joint just
isnt man enough to carry the current.On the other hand,a 21W light bulb
will sort it,no problem.This not to say that a multimeter doesnt have its
place,just that when dealing with old wiring/electrical components I've
found the bulb setup more useful.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward)
Subject: Where should I stick my bottlejack? (!!)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 10:52:30 UNDEFINED

I am pissed off with having to wind the handle for hours on the pillar jack 
supplied with my 90 just to overcome the monster spring travel in order to get 
the wheell off teh ground. So I am figuring to get a bottle jack. 

Are there any problems with sticking these under 90 axles? Where's the best 
place?

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Where should I stick my bottlejack? (!!)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 96 13:30:34 -0000
From: <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

Hello Andy,

put the jack under the axle where ever you like it!
Don't forget to engage low gear and handbrake and be sure the car won't 
slide of the jack.

Otherwise when you're in deep mud and you've got to change a wheel: get 
yourself a hi-lift jack. Use that oh-so-handy-thing for winching, 
jacking, push your roof up after a roll-over and so on.......

Marc Rengers
Groningen, Holland
mr@grant.media-gn.nl

   #=====#          #=========#         
   |___|__\___      |____|__|__\___    
   | _ |   |_ |}    |  _ \  |   |_ |}
   "(_)""""(_)"     "-(_)"""""""(_)" 
                                  
 1977  88" III HT    1987 110" StaWag 
    Petrol               Diesel  
   23-67-XB             RH-12-PF

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Where should I stick my bottlejack? (!!)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 96 13:43:32 -0000
From: <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

Hello Andy,

put the jack under the axle where ever you like it!
Don't forget to engage low gear and handbrake and be sure the car won't 
slide of the jack.

Otherwise when you're in deep mud and you've got to change a wheel: get 
yourself a hi-lift jack. Use that oh-so-handy-thing for winching, 
jacking, push your roof up after a roll-over and so on.......

Marc Rengers
Groningen, Holland
mr@grant.media-gn.nl

   #=====#          #=========#         
   |___|__\___      |____|__|__\___    
   | _ |   |_ |}    |  _ \  |   |_ |}
   "(_)""""(_)"     "-(_)"""""""(_)" 
                                  
 1977  88" III HT    1987 110" StaWag 
    Petrol               Diesel  
   23-67-XB             RH-12-PF

------------------------------

Subject: DON'T READ  TEST TEST TEST
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 96 13:51:39 -0000
From: <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

Well you are curious!

This is only a test, because when I'm sending a mail to 
lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net I receive a very strange mail back.

So I'm testing if I'm getting that damned mail again from somewhere in 
the world!

Sorry for the extra mail

Marc Rengers
Groningen, Holland
mr@grant.media-gn.nl

   #=====#          #=========#         
   |___|__\___      |____|__|__\___    
   | _ |   |_ |}    |  _ \  |   |_ |}
   "(_)""""(_)"     "-(_)"""""""(_)" 
                                  
 1977  88" III HT    1987 110" StaWag 
    Petrol               Diesel  
   23-67-XB             RH-12-PF

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 29 lines 1282 [forwarded 79 whitespace 333]
 Output: lines 1117 [content 607  forwarded 76 (cut  3) whitespace 329]


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