Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 28 Mar 96  6:51:49 EST
Subject: Spare tire Mounting Problem

Well, it's like this.

I put the spare on the bonnet, but I can't get the cover under the bottom edge, 
to pull it tight enough so that it doesn't flap.

The tire is down right on the bonnet, and there just isn't enough room under 
the edge to clear the cover.

I was thinking about setting the tire on a hoop of heater hose or some such, to 
get it up high enough to clear the cover. Opinions?

   aj"The devil is in the details"r

------------------------------

From: 73363.427@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Mar 96 07:57:10 EST
Subject: Spare tire Mounting Problem

>> Well, it's like this.

I put the spare on the bonnet, but I can't get the cover under the bottom edge, 
to pull it tight enough so that it doesn't flap.

The tire is down right on the bonnet, and there just isn't enough room under 
the edge to clear the cover.

I was thinking about setting the tire on a hoop of heater hose or some such, to 
get it up high enough to clear the cover. Opinions? <<

It sounds like you are missing the four rubber pads (MRC5627) that go under the
tire. They will raise the tire up about 3/8", more than enough to solve your
problem. If you do have the pads already, it may be that they are in the wrong
position for you tire.

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     EEEI           EEEI
 

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 28-Mar-1996

------------------------------

Subject: LR 88" HT petrol for sale
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 96 14:53:40 +0100
From: <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>

Hello world!

I've got a 1977 LR for sale

It's a 88" HT (with the small side-windows) petrol 2.25 l
Marine Blue.
4x Michelin X+MS 235 and one GoodYear spare tyre mounted on the bonnet.
2 seats from a early 90, and that small little seat in the middle.

Mail me directly for more information.

The LR is located in Groningen

Marc Rengers
Groningen, Holland
mr@grant.media-gn.nl

   #=====#          #=========#         
   |___|__\___      |____|__|__\___    
   | _ |   |_ |}    |  _ \  |   |_ |}
   "(_)""""(_)"     "-(_)"""""""(_)" 
                                  
 1977  88" III HT    1987 110" StaWag 
    Petrol               Diesel  
   23-67-XB             RH-12-PF

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 09:33:25 -0500
From: Keith Elliott <kelliott@intranet.on.ca>
Subject: 88 brake question

Hi all...

     I have a question about my breaks on my Series II 88... I have power
bled the brakes and had great peddle... After a few days
of sitting the peddle goes right to the floor when pushed... I checked the
fluid level and I have not lost a drop!!!
Obviously there must be air in the system somewhere but how can air get in
without displacing the fluid somehow????
This really has me puzzled. Has anyone else had this experience???

Thanks for the Bandwidth :)

Keith

'61 Series II 88" in pieces.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 08:32:02 -0600 (CST)
From: ccray@showme.missouri.edu
Subject: rear bed repairs -- how to do it...

across (side to side) on the bottom side of the rear bed 
component -- the body tub -- of siia 88s are two
metal galvanized structual pieces.  they are about 1inch by 3inches
by 4ft long.  later siii have a different style.  they are riveted to 
the bed with countersunk rivets.  they corrode over the years.

i have seen replacements for sale at rovers north, but i don't
remember the prices -- i will call them today.  

my question is:  has anyone replaced these metal pieces, how hard
was it, what techniques did you use, would you do it again???
seems like a terrible 2-man job using special riveting tools...
thanks for any guidance,
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Ray Harder                 Columbia, Missouri   314-882-2000
         "...you are what you drive..."
- 61 SIIa 88 (LULU, aka Experimental)  - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project)
- 69 SIIa 88 (parts)                   - 87 RR      (wife's)
---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 08:33:30 -0600 (CST)
From: ccray@showme.missouri.edu
Subject: canadian to us exchange rate...

in my quest for parts, i have some located with canadian prices.
simple question:  what is current canada to us exchange rate.
and give an example cause i feel dense today...

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Ray Harder                 Columbia, Missouri   314-882-2000
         "...you are what you drive..."
- 61 SIIa 88 (LULU, aka Experimental)  - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project)
- 69 SIIa 88 (parts)                   - 87 RR      (wife's)
---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@biddeford.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 09:55:34 -0500
Subject: Wheel offset

I'm sure I saw something on this here some time ago, but am unable to 
recall the information.  My question is: when using RR axles with a series 
body, which are the best wheels  to use so that the offset reduces the 
track width enough to keep the tires inside the body line?  It would be 
nice not to use the rubber eyebrows from a defender.  I know that the 
offset of LR 16 inch wheels varies a lot by model and wheelbase, sothere 
must be some combination which will reduce the 58.5 inch track width a bit.
Thanks,
 Ron Franklin 

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.its.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: RE-VOLTING....
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 01:58:37 +1100 (EDT)

Sandy,
Guess who? 
mmmm first time to read the list for too long but no matter.
My RR is fine and thankyou for asking ;) 
Salisbury (disc-ed too) and all...

Now to the oil pressure gauges.
I think this came up LONG ago, but here goes:
The RR (early) oil pressure sender/ guage is not operating in either of 
the ways you describe. It is somewhat more crude than that, being instead 
a Bi-metal (thermal) principle of operation in both guage and sender.
It has been a while since mine played up and caused me to delve inside, 
but to the best of my recollections, the gauge is a simple resistive 
heating element wrapped around a bi-metal strip (two dissimilar metals 
bonded together such that when heated the different metals expand at 
different rates causing the strip to bend). The strip is coupled to the 
gauge pointer. The passing of a current through the heating coil causes 
the pointer to deflect. The longer the current is left on, the further the 
deflection......

Now the sender OTOH has a sealed diaphragm which is exposed to engine oil 
pressure on one side. The diaphragm distorts outward as pressure is 
increased. The trick here is that there are switch contacts bonded to the 
diaphragm (grounded through engine block) and another Bi-metal strip 
insulated from the ground. The strip is held such that when it is cold and 
at low oil pressure, the contacts do not meet, but when oil pressure due 
to engine starting is applied, the contacts close. Another resistive 
heating element is wrapped around the strip, and connected to the strip's 
switch contactat one end. The other end goes to the sender terminal, which 
in turn connects to the gauge coil. The famous *Lucas* voltage stabiliser 
for your instruments feeds the current supply for the whole shebang.

The simplest way I can describe the operation is to think of the sender as 
a switch which switches itself off again due to the bi metal strip 
deflecting as it is heated, then it cools because there is no current in 
the heater circuit with the switch open, so the bi metal "undeflects" and 
the contacts close again.....REPEAT.

The result is a string of pulses of current alternating with no current. 
If the diaphragm distorts further out, closing the contacts harder, then 
the bi metal must deflect further to break the contacts, which takes 
more heat than before, so the current flows through the heater for longer 
before the contacts can open.

WHY?
Because at the other end of the circuit is the gauge, which has the same 
current pulses heating its little strip. The strip cannot deflect and 
undeflect all that fast, so the pulses are smoothed out at the gauge, and 
an average value is represented by the needle pointer.
Higher oil pressure=tighter closed switch=longer pulse duration=more gauge 
deflection.

Note that the sender has a calibration screw inside it which allows the 
tension on the strip to be set up at a given pressure to read correctly on 
the gauge. The cover can be drilled to access the screw after assembly if 
you wish to play. This can be plugged following calibration against an 
ACCURATE gauge.

Note also that there is very little to go wrong (gulp) with these !Lucas! 
products save for years of gummy scummy stuff affecting one or all of the 
contacts inside the sender housing. Mine simply needed pulling apart 
(easier said than done- one of those "non user servicable items") and 
cleaning, then reassembly and calibration and sealing against further 
scummy stuff.

The sender housing is a rolled together assembly- I can suggest ways to 
get in and out without wrecking it if you like....

The most troublesome contact is not actually involved in the switching 
part of the sender at all. there is a springy contact which pokes up from 
the main sender, and an insulated terminal in the sender cover casing 
which should press upon it when assembled- look for chocolate mousse 
looking stuff here, and also check that the springy thing is springy 
enough to reliably make contact....

Hope you're still awake after all that, AND I hope (and believe) that the 
RR system is nearly identical to your Smiths/Series setup (oops, I called 
it Lucas above, both ARE Smiths- Joe frowns).

Cheers for now,
Brian
77 RR
+saddening 4 speed gearbox (I smell a project coming on). 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 10:10:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: canadian to us exchange rate...

On Thu, 28 Mar 1996 ccray@showme.missouri.edu wrote:

> in my quest for parts, i have some located with canadian prices.
> simple question:  what is current canada to us exchange rate.
> and give an example cause i feel dense today...

	1.37 or something about there...  Basically about 40%

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 10:29:48 -0500
From: Hank_Lapa_at_PO-PLAZA1@SIGNALCORP.COM (Hank Lapa)
Subject: Bounced Digests

All, 

My apologies for the Digests bounced off my email address 
last week or so.  Very annoying, I know.  The local 
"engineers" "fixed" my address on the local system and 
neglected to tell anyone because they thought the 
"improvement" was transparent.

Now you know why the term "software engineer" is actually 
illegal (yes, really) in many states.

Anyhow, it seems I'm still subscribed, though if I were the 
Major, I'd have thrown me off after the 3rd bounce.

Goin' offroad this weekend with 
R.O.V.E.R.S. (club) in NJ this weekend,
Hank

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 10:31:18 -0500
From: michelbe@login.net (Michel)
Subject: Re: rear bed repairs -- how to do it...

Ray was asking: 

>across (side to side) on the bottom side of the rear bed 
>component -- the body tub -- of siia 88s are two
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>was it, what techniques did you use, would you do it again???
>seems like a terrible 2-man job using special riveting tools...
>thanks for any guidance,

I have replaced those on my 109 SW last summer. I have a tendency to have
the rover as practical as possible, so I am not the kind who installs
genuine Rover rivets in places nobody will see. It is fairly straightforward
to replace but, if you replace them with the tub still on the frame, you
need to lift the tub about 12 inches in order to install the bed rails. You
also need the rubber pads to go between the bedrail and the frame. You can
buy thes at Rovers North if you like, at about 2-3 bucks each, but you can
do like I did, find an old mudflap about a 1/4 inch thick and cut it to the
right side. Bingo!. 

I used aluminum-sealed pop-rivets all around, with stainless-steel washers
and rubber washers to prevent corrosion. I will put a mat in the back, so I
don't really care if it is not as "flush" as the original.

Hope it helps.If you have any other questions just ask me, I'll be glad to
help you out as best as I can.

BTW, I hope that it is for a SWB, the ones for a LWB are discontinuated.

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke Quebec

1963 109 PU (Rudolph)
1968 109 SW (in the works)
1973 88 SW (21st century project)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 10:40:27 -0500
From: michelbe@login.net (Michel)
Subject: Re: 88 brake question

>Hi all...
>     I have a question about my breaks on my Series II 88... I have power
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>This really has me puzzled. Has anyone else had this experience???
>Thanks for the Bandwidth :)
>Keith
It'the Girling Ghost again! Makes fluid disappear and appear at irregular
intervals, every Land Rover owner had a supernatural experience with him.
You Land Rover is haunted just like mine and a few others around the world...

Solution: Go out to the Video store and rent "Casper the friendly ghost".
View the movie a few times and especially the part where a Range Rover goes
head-on with a tree. Have a few instant replays of this scene. Go out, get
in the Rover, and the brakes will be fine.

Cheers!

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke, Quebec

1963 109 PU (Rudolph)-haunted also-
1968 109 SW (in the works)
1973 88 SW (21st century project)

------------------------------

From: jve@phaseone.dk
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 96 14:16:41 
Subject: Torque settings ???

Hi all.

For those of us that haven't got a torque wrench (or spanner), here's an advise 
I once got from my friend who's a mechanic:

 - Force it until it breaks, then backwards half a turn :-)

So I do, and my car hasn't fallen apart yet. Oh, wait a minute - the flywheel 
housing ... hmmm.

Jens Vesterdahl
Copenhagen, Denmark
1972 109 STW

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 11:05:18 -0500
Subject: Fwd: CLUNK

---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    Fwd: CLUNK
Date:    96-03-28 10:59:31 EST
From:    RoverNut

---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    CLUNK
Date:    96-03-28 10:56:34 EST
From:    RoverNut
CC:      RoverNut

My 89 RR winds down to a *CLUNK* sometimes. I know, I know, nature of the
beast and all that, but it is LOUD sometimes. After an accident I had the
transfer case and the front diff replaced, but the problem remains. Should i
worry about this?
Also EFI light won't go off. Oxy. sensors changed, Idle speed controller
replaced, all connections checked and logic unit has been rebuilt.

I don't know why I love these things, cruel lovers that they are, but I do.

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 11:07:27 -0500
Subject: Fwd: hauling

---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    hauling
Date:    96-03-28 10:42:54 EST
From:    RoverNut
CC:      RoverNut

I'm getting ready to haul a '69 S IIa from CT to NC on a flatbed trailer
pulled by my '89 RR swb. The (dual axle)  trailer weighs a whopping 2100 lbs,
the S iia weighs about 3100lbs. Any tips? I'm a bit nervous about this,
motorway driving and all.

------------------------------

From: RoverNut@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 11:08:18 -0500
Subject: Fwd: Misc

---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    Misc
Date:    96-03-28 10:38:51 EST
From:    RoverNut
CC:      RoverNut

Stearing box report: used a product called Trans-X yesterday at the advice of
my mechanic, who also owns an '89 RR swb. Works like a champ! The groan is
gone, the leak is gone (drove 250 mi on it). He says it needs to be used a
couple of times a year because the leak will probably come back. What the
hell, at $1100 a box we the damned have nothing to lose.

------------------------------

From: tmindt@mho.net (Ted Mindt)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 09:50:02 +0000

Subscribe Land Rovers Owner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 11:34:38 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Spring Cleaning

Dear All,
        Now that the snow is gone, I find myself with some stuff I'd rather
not move around the yard in Maine's 5th season *Mud Season*. So here
goes...
        3.54 high ratio diffs, pair, complete           400.
        Marsland 88 galv. chassis, NEW                 1600.
        Used leaf 88 frame *coil conversion take out*
                really excellent condition chassis      800.
        Thanks. Above items and other stuff is also avail. as trade itmes
for Corgi and Dinky, Mint in Box, Land Rover Toys!
        See ya!

From: Mike Smith
East Coast Rover Co.                    207.594.8086
21 Tolman Road  *Rt. 90*                207.594.8120 fax
Warren, Maine 04864                     ecrover@midcoast.com
    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 11:58:26 -0500
Subject: OD W/synth

I didn't mean to cause anyone fears when I wrote about my experiences! When
the OD did fail, it was after having given good service for 150K+ miles. The
tranny was very shot as well, with worn thrust washers and so much play that
everything just banged around (it was replaced as well). This probably
stressed the OD input splines to the point of failure. Most likely, it was
coincidence. Probably the majority of OD's out there have synthetic in them.
I did not, however refill with it. To my mind, it's 'lightness' could allow
penetration to, and erosion of the 'anti-scuffing' compound on the splines. I
decided to stay 'stock', and also save a few pennies...
Question- are the splines lubricated by the OD lubricating oil, or is the
'anti-scuffing' compound intended to remain un-disturbed? There was some of
it left in there at dis-assembly, but inspection didn't reveal easy access
(only 1 hole) for oil to get to that area. I wondered why it (the special
compound) was so critical, since the splines only move minimally, due to
 input thrust and rotational torque as wear develops. I did replace it with
the appropriate stuff upon rebuild.
see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!   

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 11:18:57 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Spare tire Mounting Problem

Alan writes:
I put the spare on the bonnet, but I can't get the cover under the bottom edge, 
to pull it tight enough so that it doesn't flap.
 Opinions?

Put the cover on then mount the spare :-)
Seriously (but only for a minute), it must vary with the tire size 
and particular cover. With my 7.50x16 I didn't have any problem with 
my cover, it fit snug. Something to lift it a bit is about the only 
option I suppose, that or going to a store and trying different 
covers.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 11:24:10 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: canadian to us exchange rate...

>simple question:  what is current canada to us exchange rate.

Check http://bin.gnn.com/cgi-bin/gnn/currency/
You can go either direction.

March 21 it was $1.00 CDN = $0.735 US

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 13:23:23 -0500
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Damn that's shiny!

Hi all

Just picked up my windscreen, trim, tailgate panel and hardware from Baltimore 
Galvanizing.  What a difference!   I didn't do anything to them beforehand, just drilled 
out the pop rivets and brought them in with their rust and swaths of messily applied 
paint.  Six days later, voila!  All at a cost of $100.  Not bad for essentially new trim 
and windscreen.

For those in the area who are interested I can give the particulars on how to contact 
them.

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring MD  21020
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: 28 Mar 96 12:52:28 EST
From: <RALPH@smuggits.mhs.compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Gear ratio upgrade question.

>>  Would a Haynes be a good source of help for something like this?

     Just an idea

     Good luck in Africa, 101 parts are not interchangeable with other 

     LR-suggest that you have a complete parts manual to hand and be 

     prepared to call somewhere like craddocks for help. Watch for spare 

     part theives if your truck is shipped over. things tend to go 
missing 

     at the docks<<

You'd be suprised at the number of standard LR parts in a 101. The 
drivetrain for example is straight RR apart from props and Axles. 
Bodywork is totally non-standard, but can be refabricated (it's all 
straight lines!). The only things that are really unique are steering and 
axles, but many of these parts can be adapted from other LR parts. 

Ralph.

101 FC

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 96 15:37:14 EST
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: Re: Torque settings ???

When no Torque wrench is available, we use the "White Knuckle"
torque measurement system. Basicaly how many of your knuckles
turn white as you're tightening a nut or bolt. It's a very
coarse scale, 1 to 4 white knuckles, unless you use both hands.
In those cases, the measurement scale is increased to where you
can get readings as high as 8 white knuckles. After that, other
readings can be taken from points on your face using the "Red
Cheek" scale. Any sounds comming from your throat should also
be taken into account.

Rob

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 21:37:31 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Dunsfold

Chris -
>I will be making a trip to the UK from May 1 to June 3. Are there any
>LR events, etc. that might be interesting? Also, can anyone tell me 
>where the Dunsford LR Museum is in relation to London? I will
>be all over the UK from the South up into Scotland. 73, Chris

I'm not aware of any special events except the National Rallye, and that 
would be towards the end of May. Dunsfold is a small place south of 
Guildford, about 30 miles southwest of London. However, there are no cars on 
show there under normal circumstances, as far as I know, since DLR is a 
large dealer and repair shop who also collect Land Rovers in a big way. They 
have one or two Open Days a year (last year I missed one by one day). They 
are usually very friendly, though, and let you wander around the grounds as 
long as you don't carry a crowbar. As for a "real" museum with Land Rover 
content I would recommend Gaydon, about 100 miles northwest of London, south 
of Royal Leamington Spa off the M40.

We will be in the area at the beginning of May, and may meet another list 
subscriber from the USA. Any itinerary yet?
Hope this helps a little

Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 13:01:24 -0800
From: fhyap@ix.netcom.com (Franklin H. Yap )
Subject: Military trailers

Arte there any sources of military trailers in the San Francisco Bay 
Area (or California)?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 17:29:09 -0500
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Baltimore Galvanizing Co.

The place I used for my trim, etc is called Baltimore Galvanizing Co.
They are open M-F 7:30 am to 4:00 pm  
Telephone No. (410)288-1188 
The guy to talk to is John Sala.
It is very easy to get to from the freeway system. (It makes sense since most of their 
work appears to be several hundred pounds to several tons of galvanizing per job.)  For 
those familiar to the area, it is off I-895 just North of the Harbor Tunnel, easy to get 
to from I-95, I-695 and Maryland Route 40.

If anyone wants a map, e-mail me your fax number.

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 20:06:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Kier M. Ouderkirk" <km_ouderkirk@sunyit.edu>
Subject: Tie rod ends & shocks

Hi all
 First I like to thank everyone who assisted me with the "bugeye" 
fenders. Everyday you learn something new. Next I want to know if there 
is any aftermarket tie rod ends with or with out purchasing new tie rods 
that I can purchase to replace mine.(with grease fittings) Also I am 
looking for comfortable shocks for my 88 IIA. I was wondering if anyone
has found a good road shock. I want to be able to drive down the road 
with out wearing a helmet to protect myself.

					Kier Ouderkirk
					1970 IIA 88
					Lic # LRS RULE
	

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 19:35:44 -0500
Subject: Speedo cable heat shield

>As I said before, it seems that heat from the exhaust is >causing the
>flex-shaft to seize in it's casing, this causes the needle to >jump around
>(in a sieze-windup-breakfree kind of cycle) then it finally >siezes for good
Could you try wrapping something around the cable to carry the heat away?
Maybe a tube of Al or Cu held above the cable housing by short pieces of
scrap rubber tubing, slit and place around the cable housing and held with
hose clamps? Such a shield would reflect exhaust heat as well as circulate
air between the shield and the cable housing. Cheers! John Dillingham, 73 s3
SWB, 72 s3 parts truck, Woodstock, GA
Vintage Rover Service--over a half dozen satisfied customers!

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 19:36:14 -0500
Subject: Re: speedo & synth. w/OD

Jim Dolan writes, "Fairey OD's- I've been told that several of their
internal parts (gears, synchros) are actually older P6 2000 series manual
transmission parts? It seems they wanted to use them up... Anyone else ever
here this, and if so has anyone ever crossed them over?" Yes, I read that
Rover or BL had an engineering contest to pick a design for an OD in the
early days of the fuel "crisis". One of the reasons Fairey won was because
their design used of the shelf Rover transmission parts. We all remember how
stingy those BL bean'counters were! Other than the syncro assy in the OD I
don't know which other parts are off the shelf. It would be good to have
those numbers. Cheers! John Dillingham WoodstockGA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 18:54:47 -0600 (CST)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: canadian to us exchange rate...

One dollar U.S. needs $1.40 Canadian to buy it.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 12:50:03 +0900
From: Alan Logue <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: Spare tire Mounting Problem

At 06:51 28/3/96 EST, you wrote:
>Well, it's like this.

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]

>Well, it's like this.
>I put the spare on the bonnet, but I can't get the cover under the bottom
edge, 
>to pull it tight enough so that it doesn't flap.
>The tire is down right on the bonnet, and there just isn't enough room under 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>the edge to clear the cover.
>I was thinking about setting the tire on a hoop of heater hose or some
such, to 
>get it up high enough to clear the cover. Opinions?
>   aj"The devil is in the details"r
>The tyre should be sitting on 4 rubber "buffers" which lift it high enough

so that you can get the edges of a cover under the tyre - mine has the
buffers and a tyre cover fits over (and under) the tyre just fine
Alan L

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 21:36:36 -0600
Subject: Point of entry

I just got back my note from Solihull on the trace of my serial number.   
Seems my IIa 88 was delivered in late july 1965 to Rover Boston (or   
Boston Rover, I don't have it in front of me) for "distribution to the US   
dealer network". Does this place still exist (yeah right...)? Or, more   
likely, what became of it? I'd like to see where my Rover went after it   
got to the states. If that was a distribution point, there must have been   
a record of which vehicles were sent to which dealers. Where do new US   
spec rovers enter on the east coast? The PO said he got it from the   
original owner in Vermont, anyone else get original series LRs in vermont   
or know of a dealer there? Where do these records go when a dealership   
folds?

Lots of questions...

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW (Birthdate July 15, 1965)  

------------------------------

From: Land_Rovers@learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 22:47:11 -0500
Subject: New Web Site!

The Southern Land Rover Society is proud to announce their new web
pages.

http://www.learnlink.emory.edu/solaros/

We have put about 100 images online so far and will be adding some
short video and many more pictures as our members contribute.  We will
also be announcing our monthly rides for anyone out there interested in
coming along.  Events, membership information and some newsletter
information will also be available online.

Please feel free to contact me with any comments or problems with the
site.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 19:56:28 -0800
From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Subject: Re: Spring Cleaning

At 11:34 AM 3/28/96 -0500, Mike Smith wrote:
>Dear All,
>        Now that the snow is gone, I find myself with some stuff I'd rather
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
>    Land Rover Service, Sales, Restoration, and More
>        Series Coil Chassis Specialists

Any sign of a stove grill for a '67 Dormobile in the pile??

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com   <- NOTE NEW ADDRESS

Celebrating my tenth year on Usenet/Internet

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 20:34:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Mike Catlin <mjcatlin@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: speedo & synth. w/OD

On Wed, 27 Mar 1996, David Olley at New Concept wrote:

> As far as I know, the shims behind the speedo housing do not affect the speedo. 
> The torque on the nut does, however. Whack it up tight. BTW, the manual gives a 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> or tightened just to align the castellations with the hole in the shaft.
> What do professionals(?) do?

Professional mechanics are pressed for time, so they probably just over 
torque the nut.  However, I have seen an amateur FIAT mechanic hold a 
castellated axle nut seating face up in a vice and file it in a cross hatch 
pattern until, by trial and error, the cotter pin just fits at the proper 
torque!  I have no idea what the Land Rover procedure is, but most 
makes would specify the torque and allow additional tightening until the 
cotter goes in a hole.

Mike Catlin <mjcatlin@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
'72 88"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 17:55:45 +0900
From: Alan Logue <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Bamford Winches fitted to Aussie Army Land Rovers

Have just had an interesting experience with the winch on my Series 3 Army LWB.

The winch in the standard Bamford winch used on Series 2,2A and 3 models and
the problem I was having was that the two big bolts which hold the wich
shaft (and drum) to the winch frame were turning when ever the winch was
used. This meant that the winch drum had "seized" onto the winch shaft.

Took the whole thing off the Rover and took it apart (no big dramas there)
only to find that nothing would move the shaft out of the drum and the
original diagnosis was certainly true.:>(

40 tons of pressure on a hydraulic press got the shaft out, along with one
of the bearings.:>)

The part of the shaft that is actually in the drum, between the bearings was
about 1/4" bigger than the rest due to rusting and expanding!!!!

No wonder the bloody thing would not come out.

If any one has one of these, I would suggest having the shaft drilled (a
very small diameter hole, with some cross holes throo the shaft, and have a
grease nipple fitted to one of the end bolts on the shaft. This would ensure
that the shaft gets lubed, and does not rust up in the future. The one
grease nipple on the winch does not let any grease get into the area inside
the actual rope drum.

Im prpbably the only person who has ever experienced this problem!! but it
may help others in the future.

Alan Logue
ExArmyFFR109MP

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 06:15:03 -0500 (EST)
From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall Thomas)
Subject: Re: speedo & synth. w/OD

>> As far as I know, the shims behind the speedo housing do not affect the
speedo. 

The shims do affect the speedometer steadiness.  These set the actual
bearing preload.
When I rebuilt my transmission, I ended up removing one shim on reassembly.
My speedo steadiness improved dramatically.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 06:24:37 -0500 (EST)
From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall Thomas)
Subject: Re: speedo & synth. w/OD, etc.

>Jim Dolan writes, "Fairey OD's- I've been told that several of their
>internal parts (gears, synchros) are actually older P6 2000 series manual
>transmission parts? It seems they wanted to use them up... Anyone else ever
>here this, 

Yes.

> Other than the syncro assy in the OD I
>don't know which other parts are off the shelf. It would be good to have
>those numbers.

Since my next project in the queue is to rebuild my 2000TC transmission,
while I'm in there I'll try and spot anything that matches any parts on my 
Fairey OD exploded view.  I won't be taking my OD apart for this exercise, 
as I need it to get to work.
Cheers, Randall

------------------------------

From: Jacques Strydom <ah65@solo.pipex.co.za>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 96 13:51:21 -0200 (SAT)

Unsubscribe lro-digest

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 40 lines 1480 [forwarded 94 whitespace 362]
 Output: lines 1161 [content 669  forwarded 52 (cut  42) whitespace 344]


    Back
	
    Forward
	


	
    
          
	



Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.