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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 22:29:55 +0900
From: Alan Logue <logue@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Re: S lla dash panel parts

At 15:17 26/3/96 -0500, you wrote:
> The one at the extreme left side, and the one next to the instrument cluster

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Steve
>Why not try Craddocks in the UK - they always seem to have these sort of
things.

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 04:29:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Brake problems

On Wed, 27 Mar 1996, Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM> wrote:

>    Fairly quick check: unbolt the two bolts that hold the master
>    cylinder to the booster unit, and pull it away an inch.  If fluid
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>    this is what you discover.  It's a failure mode I've seen a few
>    times myself!
I'm off to the garage with a wrench (or is that spanner?) right now....thanks.

Eric

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 07:58:26 -0500
Subject: PCV Addenda

More on PCV. I forgot to mention the other important component of PCV - a
fresh, filtered air source. It is not enough to provide a connection from the
engine crankcase vent to the intake manifold, there must also be a source of
air into the crackcase. If this is not present,or is blocked, the PCV valve
will draw oil vapor into the engine as it tries to vent the crackcase. Some
ventilation will occur through leaks in gaskets, rocker cover seals, etc, in
this process. On the Series 2 1/4L this air source is provided by a open
breather cap on the front of the rocker cover with a wire gauze filter on the
oldies, but on the newer engines with a PCV valve this was replaced by a
non-breather cap that is connected to the elbow of air cleaner hose. The
problem with non-stock carb & manifold setups is that these original
arrangements are often overlooked and lost. In conclusion if you have frothy
mocha oil scum where there should be none - mind yer breathers, mate.
 Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: jve@phaseone.dk
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 96 13:43:19 
Subject: Brown gook - thanks!

Thanks for your comments everyone.

I'll find out if the head is cracked when it is cleaned before reworking. I am 
also going to check the thermostat and other things. You've all given me 
something to work with.

Not as puzzled as before in Copenhagen

Jens Vesterdahl
1972 109 STW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 07:24:46 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: World's worst insult

|With all due repesct to TeriAnn:
|I AM NOT TERIANN!!!!!!!!!!!!!
|>I've had some insults in my time, but this one is the worst :-)

  
So I've managed it then!  I feel so proud :-)
  
It would be one hell of a type for me to type TeriAnn rather than
Steve, especially as my name tends to get added automatically at the
end of a note.
  
Have fun, STEVE
  
Steve Reddock, Xyratex       | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450     | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)           | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 09:10:39 -0500
Subject: Re: 94' NAS D90 Backlash

In a message dated 96-03-26 12:59:00 EST, you write:

>My D90's v-v-i-i-i-b-b-b-r-r-a-a-a-t-t-t-i-i-o-o-o-n-n-n-n happens closer
>to 47-53 MPH.

Yup, that is exactly where I have the only non-normal vibration I feel.  I
claim it is tyre balance, the dealer claims it is normal... and only Barnett
has truly given us the pathway to the answer...  get 'em balanced at the
local goodrich dealer!

Also Doug, my Defender has that natural clunky clunk too, all Series have it,
all Lightweights have it, all Rover cars have it, and now that BMW bought
Rover Group, all BMWs have it too.  

John
Defenderstylebratwurstandcheeseintheheartland...goodthingforthemicrobeerhereor
i'dbeanutcase...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 14:17:34 GMT
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: speedo & synth. w/OD

>The torque on the nut does, however. Whack it up tight. BTW, the manual
gives a 
>torque figure for this nut, but since it is a castellated nut, captured by a 
>split pin (cotter), I fail to see how an accurate torque setting can be 
>achieved. If the correct torque is used, then the nut will have to be
backed off 
>or tightened just to align the castellations with the hole in the shaft.
>What do professionals(?) do?
>achieved. If the correct torque is used, then the nut will have to be
The correct procedure is to tighten the nut until the split pin can be
inserted, or so it says in my manual.

Cheers!
             Tom
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Thomas D.I. Stevenson                          gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station,      Tel 01475 530581
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland.       Fax 01475 530601
-----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer <Alan_Richer.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 27 Mar 96  9:32:43 EST
Subject: Re: speedo & synth. w/OD

Re: Torquing nuts properly:

>>What do professionals(?) do?

Thomas quotes:
>The correct procedure is to tighten the nut until the split pin can be
>inserted, or so it says in my manual.

Agreed - this is the proper way. However, your average mechanical type leans on 
it till it's lined up, then pins it.

Torque setting? What's that?

  aj"This is why I fix my own cars"r

 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 14:33:25 GMT
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: CHASSIS # IDENTIFICATION 

>B = ??  a "C" is the 2.5L Diesel (naturally aspirated)  I dunno what the Tdi's
>    are (anyone with a 200TDi or 300 Tdi want to tell me their VINs so I can
>    update the FAQ?)

>From my 90 parts catalogue:
D = 2.5 4 cyl Petrol
C = 2.5 4 cyl Diesel
B = 2.5 4 cyl Diesel Turbo
V = 3.5 V8 Petrol
F = 200 TDI

>> been repainted.  The chasis # is SALLDHMB8EA346908.  The engine # is
>> 16J1697-46A.  Any information about this vehicle would be appreciated.

I don't know which engine the 16J type is, but:
12J00001C is the 2.5 Diesel
19J00001C is the 2.5 Diesel Turbo
11L00001 is the 200 TDI

Cheers!
             Tom
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Thomas D.I. Stevenson                          gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station,      Tel 01475 530581
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland.       Fax 01475 530601
-----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 09:38:57 -0500
From: Fred Ellsworth <fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com>
Subject: Re: Brake problems

Eric,
I had the exact same problem and solved it with a MC rebuild.

I had a leak in the brake system I couldn't find, and the brakes would
slowly loose pressure, say when sitting at a light.  Eventually I got
frustrated & pulled the whole pedal assebly to see what I could see.  I
popped the mc off the booster and found the booster *full* of rusty, flaky
brake fluid.

I rebuilt the mc (you'll need a 1/2" allen wrench) without too much trouble
and put on a new reservoir because the old one was extremely brittle-
cracked as soon as I tried to remove it.

I was also worried about the booster having had all that crud in it for who
knows how long. I called every rover place I knew of and the rebuild kits
weren't/aren't available, however, they all said the boosters are fairly
bullet proof and not to worry.  I did as instructed and cleaned it out as
best I could without disassembling it, then I painted the outside to keep
it from rusting, and threw it back in.

Before attaching the mc to the booster I put a small bead of silicon
between the two faces to keep water from creeping in to the leaked brake
fluid should the same problem occur again.

This refurbishing solved the problem 100%.

Before you do this I would check the prices for a new mc at LR Supermarket
in England.  Between the rebuild kit ($35?), the reservoir ($35?), and the
rebuilding time ($??), you might come out ahead.  I was very surprised at
how low their prices were, even with 7 day shipping costs.

Good Luck & feel free to get in touch with me if you have questions,

Fred
'71 SIIA 88"
Boston, MA  USA
(617) 523-6983  (h)
(617) 441-2113  (w)

PS  1) If the booster is bad you should here a whistling or sucking sound
as air is sucked past the diaphram  2) You'll probably need a wooden mallet
to get the mc off the booster, mine was pretty well corroded on- soak it in
WD-40 for a few hours then whack it good.  3)  you don't have to take off
the wing to get the pedal assembly out- just remove the wheel and mud
shield and the whole assmbly can be manouvered out from underneath.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 10:03:04 -0500
From: Fred Ellsworth <fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com>
Subject: re: synth. w/OD

Jim says his OD was toast w/in 6000 miles of changing over to synth.  Now
I'm worried- I bought this OD new not too long ago & it set me back nearly
$700. I can't afford dumping in more $$$.  Does anyone else run synthetic
gear oil in their ODs & if so have you experienced any troubles?  Also what
weight do you use.

Thanks,
Fred
'71 SIIA 88"
Boston, MA USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 10:24:03 -0500
From: Fred Ellsworth <fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com>
Subject: re: Speedo Fixes

Thnks for the suggestions on fixing my speedo problems.  I should have
noted that the nut on the rear output shaft has been torqued to the limit-
it was my first thought as well.

As I said before, it seems that heat from the exhaust is causing the
flex-shaft to seize in it's casing, this causes the needle to jump around
(in a sieze-windup-breakfree kind of cycle) then it finally siezes for good
and the flex shaft breaks right where it enteres the tranny.

Old cables have had melted sections where they passed near the exhaust.
Its not the speedo head and its not the tranny.  I've tried 3 different
manufacturers now, including original LR.  I've tried the factory routing
and routing as far from the exhaust as possible.  And my engine is not
running too hot.

I give up.  I refuse to buy another cable when this one goes.

Fred

------------------------------

Date: 	Tue, 26 Mar 1996 19:50:25 -0800
From: cyoungso@direct.ca (Chris Youngson)
Subject: Trip to UK-Finally!

I will be making a trip to the UK from May 1 to June 3. Are there any
LR events, etc. that might be interesting? Also, can anyone tell me 
where the Dunsford LR Museum is in relation to London? I will
be all over the UK from the South up into Scotland. 73, Chris

Chris Youngson, VE7CST
West Vancouver, BC, Canada
1965 109

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date:          Wed, 27 Mar 1996 17:59:00 +0001
Subject:       Re: Alignment

> a 1/4" toe-in sticks in my mind.  
> This should be fine.  There is no caster or camber to set.  This is done 

1.5mm at the rims should be fine acc. to the bible.

There is too mouch trouble making and using the wood-and-nails tool.
The tool won't compensate for a sloppy relay and worn rod-ends.
Pro laser/computer equimpent won't either but if you just reassembled 
the steering column, it might be a good idea to pay the shop to do 
the initial tracking..

You just have to fiddle a bit and then decide if improvements were 
made by driving the car.

Jack up the front. Line up one front wheel with the rear wheel aiming 
over the tyre edges. Check the other side aiming over the the edges. 
You should be aiming about half way out on the rear hubcap. Align the 
first wheel and check again.  Take a test drive. Tweek the adjustment
one half turn either way. Testdrive. If better, one half turn again 
etc. If worse one whole turn the other way, then one half etc. 

I've done this with great succes myself. 

YMMV

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 09:22:07 -0800
From: scooper@scooper.seanet.com (Sandy Cooper)
Subject: Speedo-Cables

Fred, I may just be lucky but my speedo-cable`s been resting within a
quarter of an inch of the exhaust pipe for many years now...and no trouble
yet....                                                                John
Cooper

------------------------------

Subject: Re: CHASSIS # IDENTIFICATION 
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 11:38:44 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <bulk.6348.19960327063236@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you wrote:
> >From my 90 parts catalogue:
> D = 2.5 4 cyl Petrol
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> V = 3.5 V8 Petrol
> F = 200 TDI

	Thanks.  FAQ updated.  (Still looking for the 300 Tdi info)

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

------------------------------

Subject: RE: used 85 County
From: graham.wilson@digitec.co.za (GRAHAM WILSON)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 96 09:45:00 +0200

ALLAN SMITH said to GRAHAM WILSON about RE: used 85 County on 03/26/96

AS>_@TO     :graham.wilson
AS>_@N FROM2  :sun.com)
AS>_@N FROM   :smitha@zeus.candw.lc (Reply-To:
AS>_@Land-Rover-Owner@playground.N UMSGID
AS>_@:<bulk.1081.19960326171924@Land-Rover.Team.Net>              N

AS>From playground.sun.com!LRO-Owner  Wed Mar 27 03:24:33 1996

AS>Received: from playground.sun.com (playground.Sun.COM [192.9.5.5])
AS>by f15.pix.za (8.7.1/8.6.11) with

AS>Received: from localhost by playground.sun.com (SMI-8.6/SMI-SVR4)

AS>        id RAA01083; Tue, 26 Mar 1996 17:19:24 -0800

AS>Received: by Land-Rover.Team.Net (bulk_mailer v1.3); Tue, 26 Mar
AS>1996 17:19:24 -0800 Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 21:21:27 -0500
AS>From: Allan Smith <smitha@zeus.candw.lc>
AS>Subject: RE: used 85 County
AS>Reply-To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com

AS>To: Land-Rover-Owner@playground.sun.com

AS>X-To: Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

AS>X-edited-by: LRO-Lite

AS>Message-ID: <bulk.1081.19960326171924@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

AS>1. Find someone who knows Land Rovers to look at the traditionally
AS>rust-prone  areas, because you don't want to learn about them
AS>later; 2. If those areas are sound, a treatment with something like
AS>Waxoyl would be  advisable. If you take a vehicle that is short on
AS>protective coating to a  coastal environment you will be amazed at
AS>how rapidly eveything will  disintegrate. 
AS>3. If in doubt, get some advice. Corrosion takes place over the
AS>entire vehicle.  
AS>Poorly applied protection leaves unprotected areas that will

Where does one buy Waxoyl in RSA? I do know that SASOL have a by-
product called Waxol which is popular for preserving the exterior of 
timber houses, it is quite thick at normal temperatures and would 
require a solvent to thin it before it could be sprayed.

Graham
Kriel      South Africa
Voice     +27 13638 2689
Voice&Fax +27 13638 4900
Mobile     083 226 8593 

Cheers Graham  :-)
E Mail graham.wilson@digitec.co.za 
---
* CMPQwk #1.42* UNREGISTERED EVALUATION COPY

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 16:23:04 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@mail.CandW.lc>
Subject: Re: CHASSIS # IDENTIFICATION 

>	Thanks.  FAQ updated.  (Still looking for the 300 Tdi info)
>Ben

I tried to send you something directly - must have failed.
95 year model D90 (ROW spec) 300Tdi pickup with R380 gearbox (the manual states 
that the VIN has a code for transmission type) has the following:
SALLDVAF7MA956499.
Cheers
Allan
St. Lucia

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 12:56:55 PST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Remote Brake Servo & Adjust 109 Brakes

Victoria British (1-800-255-0088) (is that how this thread started?) also 
carries the Girling repair kits for 5 and 7 inch servo's in two types and 
for the Lockheed units,....

Is this the same kit that's available from RN that does not include a diapraghm?

Dave B.

------------------------------

Date: 27 Mar 96 16:44:08 EST
From: <RALPH@smuggits.mhs.compuserve.com>
Subject: Gear ratio upgrade question.

I have been intending for some time to increase the gear ratios on my 101 
FC, as it was originally designed to tow huge loads in arduous off-road 
conditions. This however makes the gearing slightly too low for road use 
(1st is basically superfluous). I am close to departing on an African 
expedition and thus this seems to be a good time to do it. I have 
considered the options (overdrive, diffs and transfer gears) and have 
decided (due predominantly to cost) to upgrade the ratio in the transfer 
box. I have been offered the gears relatively cheaply, but I would like 
to know how difficult this job actually is. I am a fairly inexperienced 
(though enthusiastic) mechanic and doing it myself would make this cost 
effective. The 101 (if you didn't know) uses the 3.5litre v8 with the 
early Range Rover gearbox (4 speed).

Thanks in advance.

Ralph 

101 FC. 

------------------------------

From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 16:56:12 -0500
Subject: Military Trailer Source

>From the Southern Four Wheel Drive Association Newsletter, "Trailmix" Dennis
Noes, a J**P owner, writes that "Sam Werner in Tracy City, Tennessee has
about fifty M100 and M416 trailers for sale for $200 to $400 depending on
shape. Most were in GC with minor rust. Pintle hook required. You can contact
Sam at (615) 592-3601xHe's sometimes hard to get hold of." Regards to all!
Now on the real time list! Wheee! Please note the additional 'l' on the
screen name.
John Dillingham Woodstock, GA 

------------------------------

Date: 27 Mar 96 17:13:28 EST
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: RR brochures

Did not get a response to my request for an 89 US RR brochure, got a couple of
responses of persons wanting my 90 brochure, so anyone got surplus 90 US rr
brochures let me know and I will for ward the info.
 Any other RR brochures are of interst to me.

 regards  Bill Leacock   Limey in exile.

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@biddeford.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 17:51:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Remote Brake Servo & Adjust 109 Brakes

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> for the Lockheed units,....
> Is this the same kit that's available from RN that does not include a diapraghm?

I can't say what's avail. from R.N., or a Doctor either for that matter,
 but it does not include a diapraghm, only the rubbers for the cylinder 
part.  
(Of course abstinence is the best bet anyway).

Ron

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 96 17:52:11 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: that damn lucky guy...

Some people have all the luck...
Not only did my friend find a nice working gray-market '84 RR for $1800 (!!!),
he's got an OD unit on his LT95.  One of maybe 10 out there.  DAMN!!
He calls me: "duhhh, what's this lever do??"

Try to find one of these... 

Well, my coil conversion quickly ground to a hault, due to the lack of
coil brackets.  Will talk to steel fabricators tomorrow about these..
Regards
Jan
'63 109HT

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 18:45:30 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Revolting situation...

Several weeks ago, I asked this question and didn't get and answer, so I'll 
try again.  On the OEM "Smith's" electric oil pressure guage/sending unit 
(and no jibes about going hydraulic...I've got a couple of used mechanical 
ones in the spares bin), does the unit function as an ohmeter - like the gas 
guage by measuring resistance - or like a volt meter?  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 18:36:32 -0600 (CST)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Brake problems

For those of you who want to rebuild the two stage master cyl. on you 
Rover and don't have a 1/2 inch wrench for the big nut use a 1/2 inch nut 
placed in the slot.  This acts like a 1/2 inch allan key and it costs 
nothing. Drop the nut into the whole on top of the unit and it sticks out 
enough to grab with a wrench or locking plier set.  It works great. Dave 
VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 20:47:25 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@mail.CandW.lc>
Subject: RE:  Waxoyl  availability

>Where does one buy Waxoyl in RSA? I do know that SASOL have a by-
>product called Waxol which is popular for preserving the exterior of 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>Cheers Graham  :-)
>E Mail graham.wilson@digitec.co.za 
The Waxol from SASOL will be a creosote-type coal by-product, and not what you 
want. As someone posted recently, thick gunk not designed for the job often just 
hides ongoing corrosion. 
BTW the St. Lucia in my address is the West Indies, not the National Park in 
Kwazulu, but I am originally from Zim, which is close. Also, the lighthouse at 
the south of this island, a mile from my house, which was delivered from England 
and installed in 1911, was supposed to go the St. Lucia in South Africa, and 
vice versa.
I have to order Waxoyl directly from the makers, as there is no distributor in 
this region. To find out if there is a source in RSA (or elswhere for others on 
the list), or to ask for specs on the product, contact:
Christine Liversedge
Exports
Hammerite Products Ltd
Prudhoe
Northumberland NE42 6LP
UK
Tel 44 1661 830000

Cheers
Allan

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 19:47:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Trip to UK-Finally!

> Also, can anyone tell me 
>where the Dunsford LR Museum is in relation to London?

The Dunsfold LR Trust is headquarted at Dunsfold Land Rover, Dunsfold, Surrey
which is south of Guilford (south of London). However, most of the Trust's
Land Rovers, particularly the driveable ones are not there. They don't have a
building so they keep the collection spread about where space is available.
Dunsfold Land Rover is still an interesting place to stop by. They have an
excellant selection of parts for Series LRs, and some interesting Land Rovers
parked outside. Just ask permission to look around first. It assembles at
Dunsfold once or twice a year. They have a wash and polish weekend scheduled
May 11 &12 to prepare the vehicles for the summer shows. The annual open day
is October 6th.

Get a good UK road atlas, and look up Dunsfold, Surrey. From the A281 at
Alford Crossways take the side road west to Dunsfold. Dunsfold LR is on the
right behind some trees just before Dunsfold (warning, directions from
memory).

Other worthwhile places to visit include the Museum of Army Transport,
Beverly and British Motor Heritage, Gaydon. The ARC National Rally, Uckfield,
East Sussex on May 23 -28 (most events will be May 25-27).

David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 18:48:49 -0600 (CST)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Military Trailers

Tom Rowe
Tom I think you asked me about the trailers yesterday.  I checked in 
Winnipeg and there are at least 35 units available.  I called the Antique 
Military Vehicle Club and they have some sandblasted and resprayed for 
$400 U.S.  They are M110 units.  You can have your pick of square or 
round fender models.  Some have the manuals available.  They must be 
quite good because the ones I know of close to home were seen by the club 
members and they say they are very poor in comparison to they ones they 
have for offer.  Ph 1-204-254-0017 and ask for Dave Dunlop or Henry or 
Lorne Ertl at 1-204-757-2563 for starters.  Dave can give you the numbers 
for other club members who have them for sale so you can get quite a 
pick.  I was told that the units were built to float as boats carrying 
700 lbs. and that is why there was no tail gate opening on them.  They 
have a drain plug in the bottom.  The ones I have seen have a hand brake 
and drop down stand so they sit straight when not hooked up.  They have a 
pintal type trailer hook up if you are planning to come and get one.  
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: Gear ratio upgrade question.
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 11:29:29 +1030 (CDT)

RALPH@smuggits.mhs.compuserve.com asks:

> I have been offered the gears relatively cheaply, but I would like 
> to know how difficult this job actually is. I am a fairly inexperienced 
> (though enthusiastic) mechanic and doing it myself would make this cost 
> effective. The 101 (if you didn't know) uses the 3.5litre v8 with the 
> early Range Rover gearbox (4 speed).

Ralph changing the transfer ratio on an Lt95 is no big deal, allow 
yourself a full week end though...  I'm assuming that you will swap to 
the 0.996:1 gears found in OZ spec 3.9d stage 1' and 110's and some of 
the later 9.35:1 Cr rangies.

you will have to completely strip the T/case.  follow the manual, its 
time consuming but not too hard. Some of the bolts are buggers to get at 
(at least on a stage 1), its a typically frustrating landrover type job...
The worst bit will be setting the pre-load on the centre dif bearings. 
one of the bearings uses the high gear wheel you will be changing as a
spacer.  I guess just measure the differences in gear thickness and shim
the speedo housing acordingly.  (shimming the bearing in this housing is a
s**t of a job if you dont get it right first time...) Hopefully the gears
will be close enough not to worry about this but if you need shims be
warned, the shims are more expensive than the damn bearings here in OZ :-)

The other stuff you will need to check will be the Intermediate shaft 
clearances, not too difficult, but getting the shims in with the box 
in-situ can be a challenge.  You will need a long thin screwdrive and 
lots of patience...

Consider getting a complete new set of I/M shaft shims and be prepared 
for extra cost replacing seriously worn parts in a perfectly functional 
t/case.  While your in there it might even be a good time to re-shim the 
centre diff....    

Guess who has shipwrights syndrome.....

In theory the centre diff should be re-balanced when you fit the new high
gear but finding someone to do this job is not so easy.  I guess mine is
way out of kilter but..... 

cheers

Daryl (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 20:13:05 -0500
Subject: Booster Leak

Re: loss of vital fluids. The mysterious loss of brake fluid, werein brake
fluid is missing from the reservoir, but no visible leaks are found can be
explained as either paranormal activity, or more likely, disappearence into
the booster can. I was once plagued by this phenom. on a 69 2000TC, which has
two remote boosters. The PO had replaced the master cyl. yet the leak
persisted. The old dim bulb lit one day, when I noticed upon starting the car
a cloud of white smoke billowing from the tail pipe, and which would continue
to do so whenever I stepped on the brakes (and only then) for the first mile
or less. After the fluid was drawn into the engine it didnt leak fast enough
for the smoking to continue, but only after it had sat and cooled down for a
time and more fluid leaked. The leaks and smoking stopped after rebuilding
BOTH of the buggers. I appreciate Rover engineering right well but I could
have done without two servos just then. Cheers. Andy   

------------------------------

From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: Re: that damn lucky guy...
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 11:51:07 +1030 (CDT)

Jan Ben tells us  about his "friend":
> he's got an OD unit on his LT95.  One of maybe 10 out there.  DAMN!!
> He calls me: "duhhh, what's this lever do??"

Jan I think you need to forward him a copy of all the recent O/drive 
horror stories.  (Ok so its a different O/drive, he wont know will he :-)
Then offer to remove it for him before all these terrible things start 
happening.  Hey you might get the O/d for the cost of a coverplate, and 
output gear, not cheap but a lot cheaper than the OD.....

who me a crook,  Nah......

cheers

Daryl

------------------------------

Date: 27 Mar 96 21:27:48 EST
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: RR parts

Last year I picked up a copy of a list of aftermarket parts available in the
States for the series LR's.  Is there a similar list available for the RR ? if
so where do I obtain a copy ?
 I should have my RR delivered on Thursday and I know it needs some rear shocks
at the very least.

Regards   Bill  Leacock   Limey in exile.

------------------------------

From: rruffer@interserv.com
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 18:46:13 -0800
Subject: CHASIS # IDENTIFICATION

Ben:
For chasis # SALLDHMB8EA346908, my Defender workshop manual for 90s and 110s 
shows the "B" as meaning 2.5 turbo diesel (V=v8, C=2.5 diesel, D=2.5 petrol) and 
the "E" meaning "ninety, one ten 1988 model year". I believe these are the Euro 
numbers, because the VIN on my NAS 90 doesn't fit the pattern in the manual.  
Curious to know the US VIN pattern, have you posted it?

First time posting to this list.  I usually hang out on the "other" list.

Rich Ruffer
Morristown, NJ
rruffer@interserv.com
rufferr@moodys.com
94 D90

------------------------------

From: LAW142@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 21:55:05 -0500
Subject: 109 FOR SALE

AUSTIN, TEXAS, USA

LAND ROVER
1969 SERIES IIA 109 STATION WAGON, RIGHT HAND DRIVE, 12 SEATER.  SERIES III
DOOR HINGES.  3.5L V8 REBUILT RECENTLY.
SPARE ON HOOD.  JACKALL INCLUDED.
E-MAIL IF INTERESTED.
             LAW142@AOL.COM

------------------------------

Subject: Re: CHASIS # IDENTIFICATION 
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 21:25:16 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <bulk.14394.19960327184522@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you wrote:

> For chasis # SALLDHMB8EA346908, my Defender workshop manual for 90s and 110s 
> the "E" meaning "ninety, one ten 1988 model year". I believe these are the 
> Euro numbers, because the VIN on my NAS 90 doesn't fit the pattern in the 
> manual. 

	Thanks for the info.  It seems that the 10th digit has had multiple
definitions.  The more data that I get, the more that I can pin it down.

> Curious to know the US VIN pattern, have you posted it?

	Yup.  It's in the the Land Rover FAQ section on Chassis Numbers.
I have almost all the US VIN data including how to calculate the checksum
digit.

http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/FAQ.4.Chassis_Numbers.html

http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/FAQ.top.html  (for the FAQ table of contents)

> Rich Ruffer
> Morristown, NJ
	
	Small world.  When I first got my Rover I was living in Chatham, NJ
and working summers at Allied-Signal on Park Ave and Columbia Turnpike.

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

From: fv67@dial.pipex.com (andy)
Subject: Engine Modification
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 06:12:42 GMT

HELP HELP HELP

Has anybody got details of engine modifications for a 2.5 Naturally
aspirated diesel engine.. 

Need to drastically increase its power to do three stage rallies.

1. Bolting a turbo on is not a option nor is changing it for a TDI
engine ( if i could I would )

all the best

Andy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 02:09:26 -0600
From: ahyoon@students.wisc.edu (Arnold Yoon)
Subject: Re: Consumer Reports

As Dave implied.......

Consumer Reports doesn't know jack about cars........well, that's not
true....I can just see this one happening..

"Despite all of the fantastic abilities of this vehicle, the Land Rover
Series IIa will be receiving a black circle (worst) rating due to it's
non-leather interior, more-than-Lexus road noise, and lack of twelve
cupholders.  Not to mention manual spelled "tyres" wrong! "  *laugh*

Hell.....as I say......I don't ask Mario Andretti or Tom Collins for their
analysis on toaster ovens....My ears have nothing to hear from Consumer
Reports regarding Rovers (or anything else with wheels)......*smile*

Arnold Yoon
University of Wisconsin - Madison
E-Mail: ahyoon@students.wisc.edu
Voice: (608) 259-9936

Land Rover 4 Ever!
1995 Land Rover Discovery
"Four Wheel Drive Exemplified"

 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 08:19:23 PST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: consumer reports

snip

 It seems to me that CU has become quite biased in 
their reporting. ...snip.

  Off-road performance 
doesn't matter a wit.  From now on, I'm not going to use CR for anything 
more complex than rating dishwasher detergent or house paint.
    

Of course, the only things we rugged LRO's would use those two products for are 
degreasing engine parts and doing a "roller job" on the tatty ol' 88, and I 
doubt Consumer Retards would know much about either of those, so... 

Dave "You are what you read" B.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 18:31:28 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Trip to UK-Finally!

Chris Youngson wrote:
> I will be making a trip to the UK from May 1 to June 3. Are there any
> LR events, etc. that might be interesting?

Well Chris, you are coming at the right time. The ARC Nationals will be 
held in the South of England this year (normally they are in the frozen 
North or Wales!) from 23rd to 26th May. You will see (very) powerful 
versions of your favourite marque indulging in Comp Safari racing, and 
many other pursuits.

It is within easy reach of London, and if you are in need of advice as 
to bed & breakfast accom., I can post some info to the list.

The Dunsfold Museum, BTW, is not too far South of London, but I believe 
it is only open to "Friends of Dunsfold". I may be wrong on this, so can 
someone else respond please.

If you come to the ARC, look me up, as I shall have a trade stand there.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

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