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From: "Ptarick Fear" <pfear@iafrica.com>
Date:          Tue, 26 Mar 1996 14:10:03 +0200
Subject:       RE: 85 County

Hi All from Sunny South Africa,
I have been reading this digest with great interest for the last few 
months, and I am about to become a LRO. As I am new to LRs I am not 
sure what to look out for when buying a used 110. I am looking at one 
and here are the details, Land Rover County 110 1985, V8 and a 4 
speed box. Milage = 147 000Km. Engine has been re-worked due to the 
previous owner messing with the crank? (so the sales person says). 
Any and all comments would be appreciated. I plan to do regular trips 
to Namibia, Zimbabwe and Zambia, as well as weekend diving trips 
along the beach. 

Patrick Fear- Almost a LRO.
pfear@iafrica.com
Port Elizabeth, South Africa.
 

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Brown Goop
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 08:30:00 EST

The brown goop is an emulsified oil/water mixture. Whilst it can be the 
result of some major engine problems such as cracked head etc most times it 
is just the result of environmental conditions and engine temperatures. If 
the weather is cold and damp and your engine is not getting very warm then 
the internally produced moisture plus the greater atmospheric moisture adds 
up to condensation on the cooler parts of the internals (rocker cover, 
filler cap etc) and the formation of brown goop. If the oil in the sump is 
dry (try heating a few drops in a spoon, if it doesn't sputter and spit, 
it's dry) then don't worry about the mess it will go away when the weather 
warms up. Do check the engine temp. though. Is it warming up properly? Is 
the thermostat working? BTW my new VW Golf running with synthetic oil and 
showing 80 degrees C on the gauge has brown goop too.

Trevor Easton

------------------------------

From: Sekerere@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 08:35:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Gov't Repos

Well the Arizona Republic this morning says about the subject:

"The Federal authorities believe that Dr. Emmitt J. Warren since has been
cutting his teeth in a new field: forging bank notes.

The ring unravelled late last year , authorities say, when several members
used more than $200,000 in fake bank notes to buy HALF a DOZEN sports utility
vehicles at Scottsdale and Phoenix dealerships."

So I guess there maybe more than the two vehicles that I saw on TV going to
government evidence yards. The mathematics seems right +/- 30,000 for each of
six vehicles, seems like there might be a Discovery or two in the deal!!!!!!

Keep watching your auction listings, or maybe Land Rover in AZ will have them
back on their shelves!!

Cheers

Chris Whitehead
1966 Series IIA 88" out of action for reconstruction!!!!!!!

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: $40,000 Defenders
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 08:47:00 EST

Fred Ellsworth writes "I saw a great Defender 110 in the parking lot of a 
Home Depot in Boston
yesterday, walked over to check the number & see if it was someone I knew
and it said #15 of 25.  I thought they made 500?  Then the owner walks out
while I'm still salivating, he looks at my 88" & says "Oh yeah, I used to
have one just like it..."  and we were talking Rovers.  He said his was a
Canadian edition & they only made 25- the main differences were a factory
equipped rear heater, winch and driving lights."

Now you may ask, why is a Canadian Spec Defender , 1 of 25 in Boston? It 
seems that with only 25 to sell there wasn't the market for then in Canada 
and the last few went to the US. Does this mean that a) Canadians are to 
cheap to buy $40,000 Defenders b) Canadians are too smart to buy $40,000 
Defenders c) Canadians have the longest un Defendered border d) I ramble too 
bloody much.

Trevor "inpromptu surveys" Easton

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 05:54:45 -0800
Subject:  $40,000 Defenders-cheap

I think the price of a US spec Defender that I would jump at is way over my
head.

Start off with one of the 500 US spec defenders currently going for best
offers over $40K

Remove the body behind the front doors.

Weld on some new mounting tabs

Add a new D110 two door body

Repaint entire car Bristal green (An early 70's Morgan colour -slightly
lighter than BRG) inside and out.

Price tag for dark green US spec D110 three door  about US$60K

I guess I'll just settle for a 109 two door untill the price of US spec D110
two/three doors come down a little.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 05:56:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Speedo re-builds ...

On Mon, 25 Mar 1996, BwanaE@aol.com wrote:

>Anybody out there remember the name and phone number of the east coast (N.J.
>?)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>instruments. I believe the owner's name is Bob Castagnetta, but have no other
>details.
The only good speedo shop I know of in the East is Jones located in CT (sorry, I 
don't have the number handy).  I don't know what they do with old British 
instruments but they did some great work on a custom speedo we had built for the 
Great American Race.....

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 05:57:20 -0800
Subject: Brake problems

Hello all!

It seems my brakes are beginning to act up lately.  Fluid seems to be draining 
out of the resivoir but I can't find out where.  I suspected into the brake 
booster but there's nothing coming out into the manifold (yet?)

When I had the booster line disconected, the brakes seemed extremely heavy.  Not 
just more pressure required to stop (normal without boost) but resistance 
requred along the whole throw of the unit...

My question is: is it worthwhile to rebuild the master or are my symptoms not 
specific enough at this point.  Also, should I bother to rebuild the booster at 
the same time or is it too much of a headache.

Thanks,
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 08:47:32 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: World's worst flame & PIAA lamps

Duncan flamed:
|TeriAnn,
|> How can anybody justify L465 for a 2' by 18" pane with some wires in it?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
|    Duncan, who'd settle for windscreen glass without 36 years of
|    sandblasting, at this point...
  
With all due repesct to TeriAnn:
  
I AM NOT TERIANN!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  
I've had some insults in my time, but this one is the worst :-)
  
I wrote the bit about windscreens, and yes on closer inspection the
US deal does seem alright.
  
The PIAA relay sounded like it was only going to be connected between
the headlamp, spot lamp and ground.  It also needs to be connected to
a powerful 12V supply.
  
The idea is that the relay uses the power on the headlamp wire as a
signal to tell the relay to switch the high power onto the spot lamp.
  
As I read it the relay would serve no purpose.
  
A true fog lamp will not light up as far as a dipped headlamp, but
it will light up the sides better.  They should not be used as an
addition to dipped headlamps as they can be very dazzling.
  
I don't even look like TeriAnn (I'm guessing about this bit).
Do we both use the same typeface or something??
  
Only joking, Steve
  
Steve Reddock, Xyratex       | Just as he thought he had
Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450     | clinched the interview he was
IBMMAIL (GBXYR96P)           | visited by the ghost of Usenet
Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com | Postings Past.

------------------------------

From: "Vel Natarajan" <nataraja@ecid.cig.mot.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 14:23:06 +0000
Subject: Re: basic charging/electrical questions

Thanks to Alan Richer, Hugh Grierson, and Mike Loiodice for their
replies...

I'm pretty sure it's wired correctly, because the electrical system was
behaving as expected before this happened.  (low rpms w/ lights, heater, etc
would cause the charge-light to go on and the amps would dip below zero,
revving the engine would stop it and the amps would go above 0).

This is the 2nd time this has happened.  It's sort of intermittent.  I'll
assume the dynamo brushes haven't worn out if it's intermittent.  Maybe the
regulator is flaky?  How would I check that?

I'll check for a loose wire/belt.  I sat and memorized the wiring diagram
last night. :-)  It's amazingly simple.  I'm really starting to appreciate the
beautiful simplicity of this vehicle.

Hopefully, when I pick her up in Newark next week, I should be able to find
and fix it without too much trouble (cross my fingers.)  Thanks again folks.

Regards,
Vel

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 09:04:37 -0600
Subject: re: basic charging/electrical questions

Vel wrote...

> Thinking something was wrong, and being on the motorway and didn't
> want to stop there, so about 20 miles later, pulled into a service
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> off of the battery because the generator wasn't putting out enough
> current to run the vehicle.  Is that right?

I know! I know! The charging system is one thing I know well :-)

The *exact* same thing happened to me about an hour into my second
ever rover drive. I was in rush-hour traffic in Buffalo NY on my
way to Minneapolis in a vehicle I'd only owned for about 3 hours.

My vote was to keep driving until something failed. If it did,
it'd be easier to fix, but as long as we were moving...

Anyhow, I got *at least* 5 starts out of the battery and two more
days of daylight driving before I ran out of juice, and I think that
was only because we hit rain and I was running the wipers for about
6 hours on the last day. And it still ran fine after we got push
started.

I traced me problem to a bad wire between the dyanamo and
voltage regualtor. The Haynes manual has a good description of
testing the dynamo in place. If you do get a new dynamo, don't
forget to polorize it when you install it.

Does the light stay on when you shut the motor down and pull the key?
I had that problem last fall when the VR failed. If this happens,
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! What this means is that the circut is open
the other direction and the battery is trying to spin the dynamo
like a little electric motor. Since the dynamo can't spin because
of the pully, all that energy goes to heating the insides of the
dynamo, causing solder to melt and other nasty things. I burned
out mine like this when I left it for 24 hours.

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 08:19:45 -0700
From: marbourg@lanl.gov (Douglas C. Marbourg)
Subject: 94' NAS D90 Backlash

Greetings!,

I'm new to the list, and am happy to be part of such a comprehensive group
of LR enthusiast!  I have a few questions about my 94' NAS D90 I'd like to
toss out. First, after I bought the vehicle used, (8,900 miles), I noticed a
significant backlash in the T-case.  I brought the vehicle to the dealer and
they responded with the typical "thats normal for these vechicles".  After
riding with another 94' D90 owner, I noticed that his T-case "backlash" was
almost non-existant.  I would'nt care so much, but when I loose traction
(ie. axle cross over) on steep grades, it sounds as though something is
going to give (u-joints, pinon shaft, etc.).  I've removed the sway-bars and
the increased axle articulation is amazing. I don't break traction as much,
but when I do, BAM BAM BAM!. Is any one else experiencing this type of
problem, and if so, is there a "fix"?

Also, I notice a vibration at aprox. 2100 rpm/60-65 mph.  What are the
possible culprits?  It appears that my u-joints are fine.

Thanks!

Doug Marbourg, Santa Fe NM.
marbourg@lanl.gov

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 10:40:15 EST
From: rdl@NomuraNY.COM (Rob Legerio)
Subject: Re: 94' NAS D90 Backlash

Doug,
	My D90 does it too. I've had it happen mostly in very deep
snow. Also bangs around sometimes when I shift sloppy. It's been
like that since new. Checking into it is on my list of things to
do when the weather warms up.

How's your D90 on the road with the sway bars removed?  I've seen
some others post here that they have disconnected thier sway bars.
Have you removed them completely or are you using quick disconnects?

Rob

=============================================================================
  _________  |        Robert D. Leggiero                    rdl@NomuraNY.Com
 |     | \ \ |        Nomura Securities International       (212) 667-1958
#|_____|__\]\|____    Two World Financial Center, 20th Fl.
#|"___ |-   | ___ |   New York, N.Y.  10281-1198
[|/ - \|____|/ - \|]
  ( o ) ---- ( o )    1994 Defender 90 (AA Yellow, #1894)
=============================================================================

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 11:18:08 -0500
Subject: Re: World's worst flame & PIAA lamps...heated windscreens...D90

In a message dated 96-03-26 09:15:11 EST, you write:

>I wrote the bit about windscreens, and yes on closer inspection the
>US deal does seem alright.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>the headlamp, spot lamp and ground.  It also needs to be connected to
>a powerful 12V supply.

I solved this whole mess of lights, heated windscreens, and cost by mounting
my Hella 3000s ON THE DASH just outside each defroster vent.  Boy do those
things light up the interior, and clear the snow!  My heater works great.
 I'm set.

John, D90 "Brightie"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 09:28:14 -0700 (MST)
From: "James D. Howard II" <jhoward@argus.lowell.edu>
Subject: Re: Speedo re-builds ...

On Mon, 25 Mar 1996 BwanaE@aol.com wrote:

> Anybody out there remember the name and phone number of the east coast (N.J.
> ?)
> company which specializes in rebuilding British (Smiths and Jaeger)
> instruments. I believe the owner's name is Bob Castagnetta, but have no other
> details.

Nisonger Gauge Repair 
Bob Castagnetta, Proprietor
570 Mamaroneck Ave.
Mamaroneck, NY 10543
(914) 381-1952

Instrument rebuilding: Smith, British Jaeger, VDO speedos, tachs, ammeters, 
fuel, oil, water, temp., clocks, speedo drives, etc. older British gauges 
supplied outright when available; cables supplied, gearbox drives rebuilt; 
also, SU fuel pumps, new or rebuilt. 
[not sure how much of this Bob still supplies.  Bob is not associated with  
Nisonger Corp. anymore, but he uses the name.  See "Nisonger Corp."   - Phil 
Ethier]

James Howard	jhoward@argus.lowell.edu
NPOI		Flagstaff, AZ

------------------------------

Date: 26 Mar 96 11:27:32 EST
From: "BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN" <71773.3457@compuserve.com>
Subject: M100 MILITARY TRAILERS

I am interested in buying a trailer for my 1966 88' pick up.Anyone in Florida
have one for sale?
Benjamin G. Newman
Orlando Fl

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 09:06:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Brake problems

----------------------------- Begin Original Text --------------------------

It seems my brakes are beginning to act up lately.  Fluid seems to be
draining 
out of the resivoir but I can't find out where.  I suspected into the brake 
booster but there's nothing coming out into the manifold (yet?)
----------------------------- End Original Text -----------------------------

have you checked the wheel cylinders yet?  Pulling the drums would also allow
you to inspect your oil seals and know how much life is left on your shoes.

There is no brake fluid in your booster.  Its in your master cylinder, the
lines and the wheel cylinders.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 09:14:20 -0800
Subject: Re: World's worst flame & PIAA lamps

----------------------------- Begin Original Text --------------------------

With all due repesct to TeriAnn:
  
I AM NOT TERIANN!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  
I've had some insults in my time, but this one is the worst :-)
----------------------------- End Original Text -----------------------------

I think this is probably the worst insult I've ever received from someone on
this list.

I don't find being me to be all that bad.  I mean I've had some trials &
tribulations in this life but I didn't think it is bad enough or that I'm bad
enough that someone would think that being mistaken for me over the net is
the worst possible insult.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 09:41:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Brake problems

On Tue, 26 Mar 1996, TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com wrote:

>have you checked the wheel cylinders yet?  Pulling the drums would also allow
>you to inspect your oil seals and know how much life is left on your shoes.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>There is no brake fluid in your booster.  Its in your master cylinder, the
>lines and the wheel cylinders.
Yes, I know there's no brake fluid in the booster....I was thinking that the 
fluid was leaking into same.  God only knows how many times I've had the wheels 
and drums off....actually the guy who supplies my brake parts does too :)  No 
fluid around any wheel cylinder or connection.

The sluggishness I refer to is before the shoes make contact with the 
drums...once the shoes hit the drums, the force required is about right for a 
non-assisted 109, its during the travel that I'm concerned.  I'm thinking that 
fluid that has leaked into the servo is creating a greater resistance when 
there's no vacuum to overcome it....or it could just be the air in the booster 
that is being moved back and forth through the input?

I just don't want to pull the damn thing to realize that there was an easy 
solution somewhere else.....but it is a Land Rover so it'll probably happen 
anyway.

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

From: krm@mtnms.att.com (K.MOHLENHOFF)
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 12:20:18 EST
Subject: Brake adjuster kit

Hello;
I have a brake adjuster kit from the PO, no directions.
Does anyone know which cams are for the rear of a 109", Silver or black?
Will I ruin anything if I use the wrong ones. The black cams are a tad larger.

Keith 1963 IIA 109 SW

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 09:49:25 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: 94' NAS D90 Backlash

On Tue, 26 Mar 1996, Douglas C. Marbourg wrote: (snips by me)
> significant backlash in the T-case.  Dealer said "thats normal"
> But riding with another '94 D90 owner: his much less.
> Also, I notice a vibration at aprox. 2100 rpm/60-65 mph.

Dear Doug,
Your friend's '94 D90 seems to be the atypical one if it *doesn't* have
the clunk-chortle-clunk "backlash" that seems to typify NAS D90's. As far
as I know, the clunking is the only way to *positively* identify another
D90 on the trail when it is out of sight.
My D90's v-v-i-i-i-b-b-b-r-r-a-a-a-t-t-t-i-i-o-o-o-n-n-n-n happens closer
to 47-53 MPH. As long as it is consistent, you can judge your speed by
looking at the road surface rather than the speedometer when you feel it.

In essence, I believe that your D-90 is normal.

Best wishes,
David Rosenbaum
'94 D90, close to 30,000 on the odo. Still clunking, vibrating and GREAT!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 13:01:59 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: World's worst flame & PIAA lamps

TeriAnn Reddock,

> With all due repesct to TeriAnn:
> I AM NOT TERIANN!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  
> I don't even look like TeriAnn (I'm guessing about this bit).
> Do we both use the same typeface or something??

    Yeah, she already dinged me on that yesterday.  There are two
    possibilities:

    -- I am losing my mind and only *thought* I saw "TeriAnn" signed at
    the bottom of that post

    -- For some reason you signed TeriAnn at the bottom of that post
    (and I didn't read the mail headers closely enough to notice what
    you'd done.)

    I haven't hit 40 yet, ergo my mind is still sharp, ergo it couldn't
    be the first scenario, ergo you were forging her signature.  QED.  I
    can't believe you'd pull something so sneaky.  Next thing I know
    you'll be rifling through other peoples' ARB Lockers looking for any
    spare space-time continuum that isn't bolted down and stealing it. 
    Some people.

    Duncan.  Or is this TeriAnn?  I know we all use the same typeface on
    this computer!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 10:49:45 -0800
From: Russ Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Any one out there ????? Hello out there.

Seems the list is down ?

Russ
Lucas again?
Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 15:17:18 -0500
Subject: S lla dash panel parts

     I am still looking for any of the dash panel (Covers) for my 68 S lla
 The one at the extreme left side, and the one next to the instrument cluster
on the right.
  also looking for the boot which fits over the wiper motor cable located at
the left top of the dash panel just below the windscreen...
anybody have these pieces???
Thanks
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 16:44:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: Speedo re-builds ...

This is a bit off of the subject but by your screen name I was thinking 
that you may be a fan of "They call me Bwana"  any chance that you have 
this on tape????

Russ W.
67 swb  "The Pig"

On Mon, 25 Mar 1996 BwanaE@AOL.COM wrote:

> Anybody out there remember the name and phone number of the east coast (N.J.
> ?)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> details.
> Thanks,     Eric.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 17:12:36 -0500 (EST)
From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall Thomas)
Subject: Re: S lla dash panel parts

>     I am still looking for any of the dash panel (Covers) for my 68 S lla
> The one at the extreme left side, and the one next to the instrument cluster
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>anybody have these pieces???
>Thanks

Steve, I don't think my IIA *ever* had any of these pieces.

Cheers, Randall

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 22:31:13 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: World's worst flame & PIAA lamps

TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com wrote:

> I think this is probably the worst insult I've ever received from someone on
> this list.

Just think of it as a gentle training. You will possibly meet some of us in 
the UK this year. Then you may discover that we're even worse.
What a terrible prospect.;-{
We do appreciate a good pint though.:-)

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

From: iharper@afm.org
Subject: Alignment
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 17:24:09 EST

Is there an easy way to check (and adjust) the alignment on a series 
vehicle without spending the big bucks to have it done professionally?  My 
truck pulls to the right (even on uncrowned roads) and is starting to show 
wear on the outer side of the right tire....

Thanks, Ian
iharper@afm.org

---
 This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 17:24:52 -0600 (CST)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Alignment

Doing an alignment job on a Series vehicle is very easy.  Take a piece of 
wood or similar material and put a nail sticking out at right angles to 
the piece at one end.  It has to be long enough to go from the centre 
line of your wheels to the oposite side tire.  Measure the back of the 
tires and put another nail in the wood so it too touches the centre of the 
other wheel.  Now go to the front of the tires and adjust the toe-in for 
just a bit smaller than the rear.  This is close enough for the speeds we 
travel and it costs nothing.  If you want the exact spacing, I will look 
it up in the shop manual in my shop.  I often check it this way.  I think 
in the garage the correct name for a commercial rod like this is a 
trammel rod.  The only difference is the "nails" are movable with a thumb 
screw etc. but it does the same thing. a 1/4" toe-in sticks in my mind.  
This should be fine.  There is no caster or camber to set.  This is done 
by the swivil pins and is not adjustable.  The only other adjustment is 
the stop bolt so your tires don't rub on the frame.    Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 12:08:33 PST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: consumer reports

snip

 It seems to me that CU has become quite biased in 
their reporting. ...snip.

  Off-road performance 
doesn't matter a wit.  From now on, I'm not going to use CR for anything 
more complex than rating dishwasher detergent or house paint.
    

Of course, the only things we rugged LRO's would use those two products for are 
degreasing engine parts and doing a "roller job" on the tatty ol' 88, and I 
doubt Consumer Retards would know much about either of those, so... 

Dave "You are what you read" B.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 15:20:59 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@mail.comox.island.net>
Subject: Re: Alignment

iharper@afm.org wrote:

> Is there an easy way to check (and adjust) the alignment on a series
> vehicle without spending the big bucks to have it done professionally?  
If you are bouncing off the left and right curbs with equal regualrity 
there is likely no problem ;-)

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 16:20:09 -0700
From: "Lee Zeltzer" <lzeltzer@isdnet.com>
Subject: Re: World's worst flame & PIAA lamps

David Olley at New Concept wrote:
> TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com wrote:
> > I think this is probably the worst insult I've ever received from someone on
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
>     Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
> .....................................................................................

I think I agree with the pint of bitters. 

I have found Terri Ann to have both a thick skin and wealth of knowledge. 

In fact I agree with the pint so much that I wonder if you or anyone else on 
the UK side of the pond would find time to quaff a few in the May 1st thru 
May 3rd time frame when I will in the London area. 
-- 
Lee Zeltzer, Senior Consultant
Innovative System Design
100 N. Stone Ave. Suite 605
Tucson AZ 85701
(520)791-3323 X 21
http://www.isdnet.com

------------------------------

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com>
Subject: AWG winch
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 18:38:08 EST

Folks-

I'm in the market for a winch.....looking for something PTO
driven as I've got some dredging work for Nigel to do (and
figure I'll burn out an electric winch pronto).  This past weekend
I checked one out I've never seen nor heard of before.  It was
a PTO driven drum (horizontally mounted) winch (wasn't a Koenig)
that had A W G written on one side of the casing.
The drum itself was roughly 8-10" in width and 4-5" in inner
diameter and about 4-5" deep (ie outside diameter of the
drum was approaching 8-10" or so).  On the left side
(when mounted, while *facing* the front of the vehicle) is a lever that
controls whether it pulls in or "pushes" out (ie the thing runs in
the forward and reverse direction).  This lever eminates from near
the center portion of the drum itself and operates in side to
side fashion (as opposed to front to back). On the right side lies the 
enguage/disengage lever and the guts of gears and whatnot (enclosed in
casing) that transfer the crank spin to the spin of the winch's spool.
The enguage/disenguage lever operates front to back.  The casing for
the entire winch appeared to be cast (inc. the mount points). It
also had two roller guides in front and a spot for your crank 
handle (so's I can still break an arm).

Anyone ever heard of A W G (might have been A W C)?  Any idea if
bits are available for it?  Does it have a good/bad reputation?

Please reply direct as I was booted from the real time list and the
digests ain't comin' neither.........though I can go fetch 'em if
need be.  (OH, and the address is dushinrg@primail.pr.cyanamid.com)

Thanks in advance,
rd/nige

------------------------------

From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 19:47:37 -0500
Subject: speedo & synth. w/OD

Re: erratic speedo-
  Mike wrote-The problem might be with the output shaft on the transfer box.
There is an adjustment for the bearing pre-load which involves changing shims
between the speedometer housing and the transfer box. Basically what's going
on is there might be too much play front to back on the output shaft. The
worm gear which drives the speedometer pinion is on this shaft. I know it
sounds goofy, but it will cause the speedometer to jump.

The solution could also be as simple as an improperly torqued nut on the rear
output shaft. The erratic speedo symptom can be an indicator of this...

 **warning** the following has references that relate to human anatomy.
That's the way I learned it (besides, it's more easily understandable and
requires less verbosity); I hope I don't have to pay a 'sin tax' for my
syntax!

Re: synthetic in an OD unit-
  Fred questioned the consistency of the synthetic. I used it in my OD
because it was the only thing on the vehicle that didn't leak. Shortly after
filling with the expensive stuff, it started to leak. It was quieter though.
About 6K miles later the OD broke. To repair, I had to replace the 'male'
splined part of the OD input only. RN wanted to sell OD main shaft ('female'
splines) as well but I checked out the new 'male' splines for fit with bluing
and it seemed OK (also avoided serious "buckage"!). This econo-repair has
been adequate so far (15K miles, I carry spares for OD removal). My theory is
that the thinner synthetic oil got up into the area of the splines and washed
away the heavier 'anti-scuffing' grease/compound. On the other hand, it could
have been coincidence... I don't use it (synth) anymore...

While on the subject of Fairey OD's- I've been told that several of their
internal parts (gears, synchros) are actually older P6 2000 series manual
transmission parts? It seems they wanted to use them up... Anyone else ever
here this, and if so has anyone ever crossed them over?
see 'ya on the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"
 LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!  

P.S. excellent mud here in Vt. today...  

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 20:06:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake problems

Eric asks about a brake problem:

>It seems my brakes are beginning to act up lately.  Fluid seems to be
>draining 
>out of the resivoir but I can't find out where.  I suspected into the brake 
>booster but there's nothing coming out into the manifold (yet?)

Which kind of brake booster do you have? One mounted between the pedal and
master cylinder, or the remote variety which has a brake line from the master
cylinder to the booster, and a line to the wheel cylinders? I don't have any
personal experience with the remote variety but understand a leaking diaphram
can result in brake fluid pulled into the vacumn system and then the
manifold.

David Cockey

------------------------------

From: LAW142@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 20:07:55 -0500
Subject: Re: CHASIS # IDENTIFICATION

HELLO FROM AUSTIN,TEXAS!

     Can anyone help me identify a possible Camel Trophy Defender 110?  The
D110 has a 2.5 Diesle engine and has the look of a former CT D110 but has
been repainted.  The chasis # is SALLDHMB8EA346908.  The engine # is
16J1697-46A.  Any information about this vehicle would be appreciated.

Karl Young II
1969 SIIA 109 SW, RHD, 12 Seater

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 20:16:56 -0500
Subject: Brown stuff, mocha creme, crankcase ventilation

The thread concerning "brown gook" doesnt seem to have mentioned the likely
culprit - poor or non-existent Postive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV). The later
Series had the same PCV valve found on many Brit. sports cars of that era. It
uses a diaphram that reacts to manifold vacuum, closing the valve under
acceleration, but allowing it to open under spring pressure on the overrun
(as I recall). If this was blanked off, or is blocked by sludge, the moisture
that forms and is evaporated during the combustion process (especially on
damp days) will collect in the crankcase and unless vented will manifest
itself as a mocha brown scum under the rocker cover and the oil filler cap.
In the old days this wasnt a problem as engines were vented directly to the
atmosphere or through the air cleaner. Replacement  diaphrams are cheap
($6.95 @ Victoria British)), but new valves may be harder to find. The base
of the valve is connected to the intake manifold by a short, thick hose,
while the top of the valve is typically connected to the valve (rocker)
cover. Cheers. Andy Blackley  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 21:21:27 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@mail.CandW.lc>
Subject: RE: used 85 County

On Tue, 26 Mar 1996, "Ptarick Fear" <pfear@iafrica.com> wrote:
I plan to do regular trips to Namibia, Zimbabwe and Zambia, as well as weekend 
diving trips along the beach. 

Patrick - you gelukkige kerel! I don't know anything about the V8 but there are 
many on the list who do, and who will no doubt give you some pointers. However, 
I do know about diving trips along the beach and the hazards they represent to 
even a new Land Rover. Having just celebrated the first anniversary of my 90, I 
can say that its factory rust protection is actually almost as good as the two 
Lada Nivas that I have owned over the past 12 years, and I was under the 
impression that Ladas were as bad as they come in that regard. 
It will be important to know the provenance of the vehicle. Something from the 
dry Free State will be very different underneath, and in those delightful steel 
door posts and panels, from something that has spent those same years on the 
coast. 
If the vehicle meets your mechanical and corrosion standards and you move it to 
the coast, you should realise that just being on the beach is passively 
accepting trouble.
In conclusion?
1. Find someone who knows Land Rovers to look at the traditionally rust-prone 
areas, because you don't want to learn about them later;
2. If those areas are sound, a treatment with something like Waxoyl would be 
advisable. If you take a vehicle that is short on protective coating to a 
coastal environment you will be amazed at how rapidly eveything will 
disintegrate. 
3. If in doubt, get some advice. Corrosion takes place over the entire vehicle. 
Poorly applied protection leaves unprotected areas that will corrode even faster 
than if no protection was applied to the entire vehicle, i.e. if you don't do it 
properly you will make it worse. 
3. Despite some pictures in recent LROI magazines, I assume you know that 
driving along a beach that is wet with salt water is the quickest way to ensure 
that your vehicle assumes posterity in the magazine's Derelicts page.
4. If it is sound, and you rust-proof it, wash it down with fresh water as often 
as you can.
5. I hope to be in Zim this year but unfortunately not with my 90.
Allan Smith
St. Lucia
300 Tdi 90

------------------------------

Subject: Re: CHASIS # IDENTIFICATION 
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 17:31:21 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <bulk.934.19960326170651@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you wrote:
>      Can anyone help me identify a possible Camel Trophy Defender 110?  The
> D110 has a 2.5 Diesle engine and has the look of a former CT D110 but has
> been repainted.  The chasis # is SALLDHMB8EA346908.  The engine # is
> 16J1697-46A.  Any information about this vehicle would be appreciated.

S = European Manufacturer
A = UK Manufacturer
L = British Leyland/ Land Rover
LD = 90, 110, 130 & Defender
H = 110" wheelbase
M = 4dr Station Wagon
B = ??  a "C" is the 2.5L Diesel (naturally aspirated)  I dunno what the Tdi's
    are (anyone with a 200TDi or 300 Tdi want to tell me their VINs so I can
    update the FAQ?)
8 = LHD and 5 speed transmission
E = 1984 model
A = Built in Solihull
346908 is the chassis number.

	So the VIN checks out.

	As a general note, I have the US VIN numbers for LR's figured out.
My European VIN data is bases on James Taylors book and is a number of
years out of date.  So if you look at the FAQ and you find that your VIN
is different from the data that I have, please tell me so I can update the
FAQ

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 18:17:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Brake problems

On Tue, 26 Mar 1996, Wdcockey@aol.com wrote:

>Which kind of brake booster do you have? One mounted between the pedal and
>master cylinder, or the remote variety which has a brake line from the master
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>can result in brake fluid pulled into the vacumn system and then the
>manifold.

Its the booster mounted on the pedal assembly....the assiste seemed to work 
properly do I am loathe to think there's a leaking diaphragm.  

Puzzled...
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 22:10:54
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: Before I kill him...

After an expensive rebuild the transmission seems to hate 4w low. Yellow knob 
pops up defiantly when hi/lo selector is moved to lo position. won't stay for 
love or money. Never having actually worked on the tranny, I can't trouble 
shoot this myself(insert feelings of inadequacy here). This begs the 
question...what is making the yellow knob pop and what is supposed to happen  
when it is working properly. Did Jimmy put something back in backwards?
 
Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

------------------------------

From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh.Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 15:30:37 +1200
Subject: Re: Before I kill him...

> After an expensive rebuild the transmission seems to hate 4w low. Yellow knob 
> pops up defiantly when hi/lo selector is moved to lo position.

Before you kill him, it's supposed to do that.  The yellow knob only
applies in high, low is always 4wd.

In fact the only way to get out of 4-hi is to pull the red lever 
back to low, causing the yellow knob to pop up, then change back
to high.
-- 
Hugh Grierson   hugh_grierson@trimble.co.nz  

------------------------------

From: "Dean Cording" <CORDINGD@mail.navmat.navy.gov.au>
Date:          Wed, 27 Mar 1996 14:56:13 +1000
Subject:       Re: Before I kill him...

> After an expensive rebuild the transmission seems to hate 4w low. Yellow knob 
> pops up defiantly when hi/lo selector is moved to lo position. won't stay for 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> question...what is making the yellow knob pop and what is supposed to happen  
> when it is working properly. Did Jimmy put something back in backwards?

I gather the rebuilt took some time to complete.  Well err, um, err 
(approaching the subject hesitently due to the embarassment about to 
be caused) its actually supposed to do that.  The correct operation 
when shifting from high 4 to low 4 is for the yellow knob to pop up.  
Remember now, this is how you shift out of high 4, by  shifting to 
low then bach into high.  4wd is automatically engaged when you shift 
into low.

Dean

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 23:34:51 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: consumer reports

>   Off-road performance 
> doesn't matter a wit.  From now on, I'm not going to use CR for anything 
> more complex than rating dishwasher detergent or house paint.
    
> Of course, the only things we rugged LRO's would use those two products for are 
> degreasing engine parts and doing a "roller job" on the tatty ol' 88, and I 
> doubt Consumer Retards would know much about either of those, so... 

    Interesting sidebar article up front, where they blame the
    popularity of SUV's for global warming.  No doubt my Series II is
    somehow responsible for deforestation, too.

    Duncan, trying not to call everyone TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 00:05:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: Brake problems

Eric,

> Its the booster mounted on the pedal assembly....the assiste seemed to work 
> properly do I am loathe to think there's a leaking diaphragm.  

    Going from long-ago experience with TR6's which used a nearly (if
    not actually) identical setup:

    It's not the diaphragm that's leaking; the assist stops assisting,
    and you get hissing and poor running when applying the brakes, if
    that's the case.

    When the master cylinder seal goes, the fluid leaks out towards the
    pushrod.  On a non-assisted brake setup this often means it is
    running down your pedal and splashing on your shoes.  In a booster
    setup, this means it's leaking all into the booster housing.

    Fairly quick check: unbolt the two bolts that hold the master
    cylinder to the booster unit, and pull it away an inch.  If fluid
    pours down the booster face and the back of the piston is wet with
    fluid, you need to rebuild your master cylinder.  I'll bet a beer
    this is what you discover.  It's a failure mode I've seen a few
    times myself!

    Duncan.  Or am I TeriAnn?

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 00:22:23 -0500
Subject: Re: consumer reports

Sandy correctly pointed out biased reporting from CR.

The biggest contention concerning the current crappola is that the sample size 
was so small that CR (going against their own published guidelines as to what 
constitutes a sample) lumped responses from both 1994 and 1995 models!! This 
should, by their own criteria, have made the Discovery ineligible for 
inclusion in the report at all!!

A growing concensus is that there is some politics involved between CR or at 
least one of its staff. High school stuff...

cheers
Jim

`67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A lightweight
`68 2B 110 F/C diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (#457/500)
`95 D90 #1958

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 00:38:53 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: consumer reports

Sandy sez...

>doesn't matter a wit.  From now on, I'm not going to use CR for anything 
>more complex than rating dishwasher detergent or house paint.

Shoot! It don't even make for good toilet paper....

Cheers
Mike
 

------------------------------

From: "Mr Ian Stuart" <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 08:19:15 +0000
Subject: Re: Before I kill him...

Quoting WILLIAM ADAMS, from 26 Mar 96

> After an expensive rebuild the transmission seems to hate 4w low.
After a cheap(ish) rebuild of gearbox & transfer box)...

> Yellow knob pops up defiantly when hi/lo selector is moved to lo
> position. won't stay for love or money.
This is the correct action.
The vehicle has 3 possible driving configurations:
	1) Rear wheel drive, normal gear-box ratios
	2) 4 wheel drive, normal gear-box ratios
	3) 4 wheel drive, lowered gearbox ratios

Note: In 4 wheel drive - the front and rear prop-shafts turn at the same
speed. This causes a problem when the vehicle is turned round corners as
the rear axle tends to cut to the inside of the circle and thus travels
less distance - this is refered to as WIND-UP. You can easily show this:
drive through a puddle in a carpark and then, with the wheels wet &
leaving a track, turn as sharp a corner as possible (to accentuate the
difference)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

Quote of 1996: "A.L.S. is a good example of scotissityness"

------------------------------

Subject: I-Dent-A-Rover
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 00:47:49 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

	A friend of mine needed a project for one of his computer classes.
Somehow we came up with I-Dent-A-Rover.  This program asks you a series of
questions (by showing you some photos).  Based on your answers, the program
decidess which kind of Land Rover you are looking at (or thinking of). 
This program doesn't have preset paths. It is generating all of the in between
web pages on the fly.  A handy "Don't know" button allows you to skip questions.

	Right now the program will differentiate between: 
Early 80"
Mid 80"
Late 80"
86"
SI 88"
SII
Early SIIA
Early SIIA Military Air Portable (Lightweight)
Transitional SIIA (aka the Bugeye)
Late SIIA Military Air Portable (Lightweight)
Late SIIA
SIII 
SIII Military Lightweight
Stage I (SIII 109" V8)
Coil Spung Land Rover 90/110/130 & Defender 90/110/130

	(Of course LWB being a stretched SWB)

	No Rangies, Discos or Forward Controls at this time.  When we
figure out how to get the program not to ask unnecessary questions, then we
will add more questions and make I-Dent-A-Range-Rover, etc.  So consider the 
program to be version 1.0.

	Most of the credit goes to Jan Barglowski (jan@vislab.navy.mil)  he
did all of the programming.  I was only an idea man, a photo scanner and
writer of the final web pages.

	So for your Web browsing enjoyment, the RoverWeb presents:

http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/RoverWeb/IDAR/

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entries
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 09:07:59 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: speedo & synth. w/OD

JDolan2109@aol.com wrote:
> The solution could also be as simple as an improperly torqued nut on the rear
> output shaft. The erratic speedo symptom can be an indicator of this...

I believe this is the correct answer.
As far as I know, the shims behind the speedo housing do not affect the speedo. 
The torque on the nut does, however. Whack it up tight. BTW, the manual gives a 
torque figure for this nut, but since it is a castellated nut, captured by a 
split pin (cotter), I fail to see how an accurate torque setting can be 
achieved. If the correct torque is used, then the nut will have to be backed off 
or tightened just to align the castellations with the hole in the shaft.
What do professionals(?) do?

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 20:11:03 +1100 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: Babe - go pig, go!

The (film) database
   http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Contents/index.html
returns the following entry for:  Babe

%T Babe
%D 1995
%K Babe, movie, film, pig, RR
%X OK this is only for folks with kids as the rest of you wouldn't most likely
   be interested even though it is rather light hearted and fun. The movie is
   `Babe' about half way in there is a 5 second spot of a RR partially blocked
   by one of the actors. It is viewed from the right rear. If you are really
   hard up to spot LR products and don't have kids you may still enjoy the
   movie, for those of you with kids, it is good clean and enjoyable
   - Clayton R. Kirkwood, kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com [8/'95]

Incidentally I was having a quick look at the book   `The Sheep Pig'
that the film was based on, and it is clearly set in England
with many references to rattly old Land-Rovers and even a drawing
of one.

I think the film was made in Queensland not NSW ?

Lloyd

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 50 lines 1938 [forwarded 138 whitespace 454]
 Output: lines 1522 [content 884  forwarded 92 (cut  46) whitespace 433]


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