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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 06:59:44 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: Heated Windscreens

TeriAnn,
  
> How can anybody justify L465 for a 2' by 18" pane with some wires in it?

    Not to justify the RN prices, but to at least square away the facts:

    Their $465 kit included *everything*- both sides of glass, the
    switch, the wires, connectors, etc.  SO for your 60 british pounds
    per side in England for just the glass, the price disparity isn't
    quite as great as you were thinking.

    Duncan, who'd settle for windscreen glass without 36 years of
    sandblasting, at this point...

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@biddeford.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 08:02:27 -0500
Subject: Re: New 110's in US?

> >> >I agree. You'd be better off coiling a 109...
> >> >          Cheers
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> >I'm looking for a space to rent outside the space time continum that I can
> >move to to avoid the time that  the continuim collapses.
Sounds like you need to get a table at the Restaurant at the end of the 
Universe.  Don't forget your towel.

Ron Franklin, already there

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

From: krm@mtnms.att.com (K.MOHLENHOFF)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 08:08:02 EST

subscribe lro-digest

------------------------------

From: Vel Natarajan <nataraja@cig.mot.com>
Subject: basic charging/electrical questions
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 07:43:03 -0600 (CST)

Either somethings wrong with my charging system, or I have absolutely
no clue how it works (well, most likely the latter).

Anyway here's the story...
...as I was driving my SIIa 70 miles to Southampton to ship her off to
America, about 15 miles into the trip, the charge light came on and I
noticed that the Amp gauge was reading below zero.  It was raining, so
I turned off my lights (it was daytime - just overcast), and went to
manual mode with my wipers (used my hand).

Usually when this came on in the past, it was when I was barely
idling, so raising the engine RPMs would cure it.  But no matter how
much I revved the engine, the light stayed on, and the amps always
read below zero (just barely below zero).  But when I used my
turn-signal, or wipers, or lights, the amps would dip even lower.

Thinking something was wrong, and being on the motorway and didn't
want to stop there, so about 20 miles later, pulled into a service
area and shut her off.  I started her, and it sounded like the battery
was really strong and she started right up.

I always thought that when the light came on, it meant I was running
off of the battery because the generator wasn't putting out enough
current to run the vehicle.  Is that right?

According to the workshop manual, the voltage/current regulator should
stop charging the battery when it's fully charged.  (and I should then
be running off the dynamo, right?)  It appeared that the battery was
very strong and that I wasn't running off of it.  If so, why was the
charge light on, and why was I reading below 0 amps?

Or do I just need a basic lesson in Lucas electrics 101.  Sorry, I'm a
just a simple byte-head, I only know software.  (But I'm eager to
learn this stuff.)

Vel

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: TARC April Fools Errand
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 08:54:00 EST

Toronto Area Rover Club's April Fools errand will be taking place April 
20th. Meet  2pm at the Family Fair Restaurant, Main Street West, Grimsby 
Ontario for an short afternoon on of some of the unimproved roads of the 
Niagara Escarpment. The event will be an any order tour of these roads with 
a pictorial quiz to be conmpleted as you go. Roads ranging from mild to 
deeply rutted. (OVLR rating=all mild). Nominal entry fee and prizes for the 
quiz.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 07:50:16 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Power Brake Booster & a warning

 A. Blackley writes:

> As a legacy of my MGB days I still get catalogs in the mail. A recent
> Victoria British catalog MG.30, lists a  Lockheed Remote Replacement Servo
> Kit for $359. It looks v. similar to the remote servos my old Rover 2000TC
-
This may be good news for the '67 6cyl NADA 109 owners also. It 
sounds like it might work in place of the remote servo tha was stock 
on them. Which, last I heard, were no longer available.
Which reminds me, why do I see people that have a '66 or '68 NADA 6cyl when 
'67 was the first year the 6cyl was an option in the 109 and the last 
year 109's were imported into the US?

>brakes from a later vehicles I dont know. I do know that the dual
>system on my old '71 SIIA saved my butt once, when one of the orig.
>front brake fllex
-
Saved me too. I had used a brake line coupler that was aluminum (yeah 
I should have known better) and after a number of years I came to a 
scary stop approaching a heavily trafficed road. On inspection I 
discovered that the coupler had disentigrated. I replaced it with a 
steel one. DON'T use aluminum ones, even though they are available.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 08:00:47 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Renting space

Peter Hirsch writes:

> >TeriAnn writes:
> >> we need to be extreamly careful here as you are suggesting fooling around
 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 10 lines)]
> >That's my plan exactly. Then we can import any year or model Land 
> >Rover we want. Yeeha!
 
 Well, you could have known that space there is extremely desirable and has 
 already been bought up by some richer members of the society, who also use 
 it as a tax shelter.
 Good idea, but sorry, no space left
> >That's my plan exactly. Then we can import any year or model Land 
Well, there is a way around that Peter. We take one of their RR 
limos, re-coil it, stow it in the ARB locker and,voila, more space.
YOu should know by now we LR owners will always find a way around, 
over or through an obstacle.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 08:15:15 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Remote Brake Servo & Adjust 109 Brakes

Steven L. Meier writes:
snip
> behind the engine compartment battery box.  The original Girling units are not
> rebuildable and used ones, due to age and a leather diaphragm, are not really 
snip
Not exactly. They *are* rebuildable *if* you can find the kits. I bought 
the last two kits from DAP about 12 years ago. The kits had rubber 
diaphrams as did the boosters on both my 109's. (Of course they may 
have been rebuilt before and leather diaphrams replaced)

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 08:22:51 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: 1968 LR fenders

Kier Ouderkirk asks:

> I had a customer come to me with a question that I am not sure of its 
 answer. He is looking for a replacement fender for his 68 109 LR, he says 
 that it needs a fender that has no square indent around the light 
 assemblies on the front. He has one on his vehicle that is this 
 way(without the indent). The other has the indent around the lights. I 
 was wondering is there such a thing out there or did someone take a older 
 fender and cut out the holes to place the newer style headlights and 
 signals in it? Thank You
> I had a customer come to me with a question that I am not sure of its 
The first year the headlamps were moved to the wings, they were 
bugeyed. If they are original fenders the bugeye is the correct one. 
That assumes it's really a '68 109 (which weren't imported) and not a 
wronly titled '67. "67's of course had the inboard mounted headlamps.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 14:25:34 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Axles?

Richard Justin Chala wrote:
>  Were the early defenders leaf sprung?

No. Before the name Defender was adopted, the vehicle had no name. Just 
90 or 110. The name came along after the launch of the Discovery. These 
were all coil sprung and had wider axles than the series vehicles.
The first permanent 4WD version, however, was leaf sprung, and known as 
the Stage 1. It was a hybrid, and was only in production for a short 
time. This had standard size axle casings. The front drive shafts, 
however, were fitted with CV joints.

This is the only axle which could be used on a Series vehicle.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 08:29:41 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Pos. vs Neg. ground?

Jim Cirbus asks:

> I have recently acquired a 67' 109 wagon with a 2.6 liter engine.  The
> Lucas generator was replaced with a Delco alternator.  Other than that,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> be intact.  I Would like to attempt to start this engine.  How can I tell
> if it has a positive or negative ground.
They all had positive ground.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 06:30:50 -0800
Subject: Re: 1968 LR fenders

Kier,

This is a semieducated guess.  I think Dixon has spent some time
understanding this issue.

1968 should have the indented wing headlights.  There was a transition period
earlier when Rover first  put the lights on the wing (I believe to meet new
US safety regs).  They had old wing fronts and old headlamp buckets.  They
just punched holes in the wing fronts and used the original headlamp buckets
and chrome rims untill the stock ran out.  I believe the transition occured
in part of the '67 model year.

Etherway the headlamp location should be the same on both sides of the wing.

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com <- Note new address

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 06:35:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel Tanks - Shipping & Sealers

David,

British Pacific in Southern California is carrying a well made aftermarket
fuel tank (as well as originals) for a very attactive price.

I have three of them on my 109.  I like them better than the factory tank and
they are WAY cheaper.

Check it out

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com  <- New address

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 06:44:01 -0800
Subject: Re: New owner adventures!

----------------------------- Begin Original Text --------------------------

> Congrats on the new Dormobile.  Best guess is that there were only 
> about 500 Land Rovers converted to Dormobiles  
I thought there were only 160 LR Dormobiles?  

----------------------------- End Original Text -----------------------------
Hi Roger

Tony Starbird keeps saying that, but there are just too many Dormobiles &
ex-Dormobiles around for 160 to be the total.  Other people I've talked to
think the actual number is closer to 500ish.  Unfortunatly there doesn't seem
to be complete records anyplace.

Mike on the East coast has some build records but I don't believe all of
them.

Etherway.  500 doesn't go very far in this world.  Especially considering
 the number of cars that have been wrecked and stripped.

Jim mentioned that your 5 door 109 was an ex-UK spec Dormobile.

Take care & good luck getting the transmission out

TeriAnn

twakeman@scruznet.com  <- Note new address

------------------------------

From: jve@phaseone.dk
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 15:27:20 
Subject: SIII - brownish gook in the rocker cover

Hi all.

Shortly after I bought my 4cyl petrol 109, I noticed that the inside of the 
rocker cover was covered with some brownish-grey gook. When I changed the 
cylinder head gasket this winter, I removed the gook since it had hardened in 
the cold and was easy to scrape off. Now, two months later, it's there again. 
What is it? I tried to clean the breather filter but this didn't seem to have 
any effect. I know that the cylinder head is worn and I'm going to have it 
reworked now. New valves and guides and grinding of the bottom surface and all. 
Will this have any effect on the gook in the cover?

Though the car is a 1972 sIII, I recently found out that the engine is a sII, 
4cyl 7:1 compression ratio (368... engine number).

Puzzled in Copenhagen

Jens Vesterdahl

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 06:48:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Pos. vs Neg. ground?

Jim.

Look at the battery.  The terminal are marker Pos. (+), and NEG (-)

One of the terminals will have a wire going to the frame (body).  That is the
ground.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 10:03:26 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: 1968 LR fenders

On Sun, 24 Mar 1996, Greg Moore wrote:

| > answer. He is looking for a replacement fender for his 68 109 LR, he says
| > that it needs a fender that has no square indent around the light
| > assemblies on the front.
| If I'm not mistaken that would be a US spec 11A fender.

	NADA spec IIA wing...  Used on the "transitional" IIA's.  Over a
	thousand produced I think, of which the majority went to North
	America.

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 07:04:21 -0800
Subject: Re: SIII - brownish gook in the rocker cover

Jens
The brown gunk is most likely  a mixture of water and oil.  This can mean
that you have some level of water  leak into your oil system.  Or it can mean
that you have some moist air being taken into your breather system.  If your
oil looks OK, I wouldn't worry about it.  But when you have your head off
have it magnifluxed for cracks. check trueness of the head & block & after
you cleaned up the block mating surface, look closely there for cracks.  I
don't think you will find anything but it never hurts to look.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 09:54:03 -0600 (CST)
From: ccray@showme.missouri.edu
Subject: getting prepped for the academy awards...

ok, so i watched "babe" last night -- qute little
movie.  i saw the vet drove a rangie, but what was
the make of vehicle the farmer drove and some details.
i want to be quite the authority should the movie make it big --
i can brag "...yeah, the farmer drives a xxxxx..."

and NSW,AU is simply stunning...

---------------------------------------------------------------------
Ray Harder                 Columbia, Missouri   314-882-2000
         "...you are what you drive..."
- 61 SIIa 88 (LULU, aka Experimental)  - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project)
- 69 SIIa 88 (parts)                   - 87 RR      (wife's)
---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 10:08:16 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: SIII - brownish gook in the rocker cover

Using motor oil high in parrafin, PN crude for example, can lead 
to a build up of gook in the engine, although it's usaully about the 
same color as the oil.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 11:05:28 -0500
From: michelbe@login.net (Michel)
Subject: Re: Pos. vs Neg. ground?

>Jim Cirbus asks:
>> I have recently acquired a 67' 109 wagon with a 2.6 liter engine.  The
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>> be intact.  I Would like to attempt to start this engine.  How can I tell
>> if it has a positive or negative ground.
Tom Rowe replies

>They all had positive ground.
>> I have recently acquired a 67' 109 wagon with a 2.6 liter engine.  The
That is not exactly true.
In fact, my ex-NADA 109 is negative grounded from the factory. It has the
label: "Caution: Negative ground" on the radiator panel. It is possible that
the last 109 6-cyl NADAS were negative grounded. Mine is number 808 out of
811 and has always been registered as a 1969, although I believe it is a
1968. I'll have to check that...any ideas, anybody...

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke, QAuebec
1963 109 PU (Rudolph)
1968 109 SW (in the works)
1973 88 SW (21st century project)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 10:14:43 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Pos. vs Neg. ground? (Important correction! )

> > They all had positive ground.
> 	Yeah, but it has a Delco alternator in there...  Never seen a positive
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> 	to - earth already, or is halfway there.  Only ever seen + earth
> 	Lucas alternators...
_
YIKES!! What a bad typo. They all had *NEGATIVE* ground.
While I was typing I was thinking that, if I'm not mistaken, the 
positive post is larger than the negative post. So if you don't have 
an installed battery you can look at the terminals, assuming someone 
didn't replace them with those cheapo "one size fits all" pieces of 
crap. And type postive. I've got to stop thinking and typing at the 
same time. ;-)

My profound appologies to anyone who fried their electrics before 
this correction.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 10:18:57 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Pos. vs Neg. ground?

 Michel Bertrand writes:

> Tom Rowe replies
> >They all had positive ground.
> That is not exactly true.
-
No where near true.

> 811 and has always been registered as a 1969, although I believe it is a
> 1968. I'll have to check that...any ideas, anybody...

> Sherbrooke, QAuebec
-
Quebec, that would explain post '67 109's in the US, I guess. In 
addtion to privately imported ones.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 10:31:24 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Pos. vs Neg. ground? (Important correction! )

> crap. And type postive. I've got to stop thinking and typing at the 
> same time. ;-)

Sheesh, what a day. That didn't make any sense either. I was trying 
to say I was thinking about two different things and typed "positive" 
instead of "negative". Maybe I should go home and start today over. 

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 11:26:37 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: NYC car owners...

Roger wrote:
  Before going to Europe on business, a man drove his Rolls-Royce to a
  downtown NY City bank and went in to ask for an immediate loan of
  $5,000. The loan officer, taken aback, requested collateral. "Well,
 ".................

this is a Nth incarnation of the same joke I heard N-1 times.  Last time
the bank was in London, not NYC...

Jan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 11:33:00 -0500
From: michelbe@login.net (Michel)
Subject: Re: Pos. vs Neg. ground? (Important correction! )

>> crap. And type postive. I've got to stop thinking and typing at the 
>> same time. ;-)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>instead of "negative". Maybe I should go home and start today over. 
>Tom Rowe

No, think positive and it will be much better....

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke, Quebec

1963 109 PU (Rudolph)
1968 109 SW (in the works)
1973 88 SW (21st century project)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 11:37:35 -0500 (EST)
From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall Thomas)
Subject: Re: Remote Brake Servo & Adjust 109 Brakes

>>The original Girling units are not
>> rebuildable and used ones, due to age and a leather diaphragm, are not
really 
>snip
>Not exactly. They *are* rebuildable *if* you can find the kits.

Tom,
You wouldn't happen to remember the kit #s would you?
Randall

------------------------------

Date: 25 Mar 96 11:52:27 EST
From: "Steven  L. Meier" <102141.3253@compuserve.com>
Subject: + or - ground . . . 67 109

From: JAMES_CIRBUS@HPATC2.desk.hp.com
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 96 23:35:00 -0500
Subject: Pos. vs Neg. ground?

Greetings,

I have a question for the wizards of the digest.

I have recently acquired a 67' 109 wagon with a 2.6 liter engine.  The
Lucas generator was replaced with a Delco alternator.  Other than that,
(and a missing air cleaner and battery) the engine compartment seems to
be intact.  I Would like to attempt to start this engine.  How can I tell
if it has a positive or negative ground.

...In response to your question . . . In my experience with these vehicles and
according to factory circuit diagrams, all of the 67' NADA 6 cylinder 109's 
shipped to the US were - ground. Some were mistakenly switched to + ground by 
DIY or unknowing mechanics.  In any case the alternator fitted would require -
ground.  Put in a battery, hook up with - ground and give it a spin.  A lot of
"knocking and banging" may well be expected . . . ready to "blow" . . . the 
reason most of these Land Rovers now sport Chevy engine conversions.  If, 
however, all seems well I have an air cleaner assembly left over from a Chevy 
conversion I could sell.  e-Mail for details.

Keep the "Romance" Alive . . . Steven L. Meier
ROVERS YOU CAN RIDE . Santa Fe . New Mexico
Specializing in Complete Frame Up Restorations
Engine/Gearbox Conversions and other Options Available
e-Mail 102141.3253@Compuserve.com  1.505.438.2475  FAX 1.505.989.7622

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 11:55:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: SIII - brownish gook in the rocker cover

> The brown gunk is most likely  a mixture of water and oil.  This can mean
> that you have some level of water  leak into your oil system.  Or it can mean
> that you have some moist air being taken into your breather system.  If your
> oil looks OK, I wouldn't worry about it.  But when you have your head off

    What she said.  Another common source of water in your oil is if
    your engine never comes up to temperature enough to evaporate off
    the water vapor that just naturally ends up in the crankcase.  If
    you are running without a thermostat, this is pretty much guaranteed
    to happen.  If you are in extremely cold climates, a radiator muff
    (or piece of cardboard!) can help.

    Duncan

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 11:01:56 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Thinking positve

> No, think positive and it will be much better....

Thinking positve is what got me in this mess. ;-)

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 17:00:52 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: NYC car owners...

Jan Ben wrote:
> this is a Nth incarnation of the same joke I heard N-1 times.  Last time
> the bank was in London, not NYC...

OK folks. Just make sure, before posting any more jokes, that Jan hasn't heard 
them before. :-)

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 11:58:56 -0500
From: Fred Ellsworth <fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com>
Subject: Cool LR Sighting, etc...

Hi All,
I saw a great Defender 110 in the parking lot of a Home Depot in Boston
yesterday, walked over to check the number & see if it was someone I knew
and it said #15 of 25.  I thought they made 500?  Then the owner walks out
while I'm still salivating, he looks at my 88" & says "Oh yeah, I used to
have one just like it..."  and we were talking Rovers.  He said his was a
Canadian edition & they only made 25- the main differences were a factory
equipped rear heater, winch and driving lights.  I felt a little better
when he said he only got 10-12 MPG, but not much.  It was a fantastic
vehicle & I have to say if I had a spare $40 grand I can think of many
worse things to waste it on.

Till then...

I finally replaced the original but never functioning electric oil pressure
gauge with Smith's mechanical one- works great, about 35-40lbs at idle & up
to 45-50lbs at speed.  Does this sound right to everyone?

I also got around to putting in a new speedo cable.  I've gone through
three in the past year.  It seems that heat from the exhaust pipe breaks
down the lubricant, the speedo needle gets jumpy & finally the cable
breaks.  I've routed it as far from the pipe as I can- and this time I
installed a 1" ID rubber hose over the section that runs near the exhaust
(what's that smell, dear?).  Anyway, I put it in yesterday afternoon and
the needle action was smooth and sure, put 60 non-stop RT miles on it last
night and by the time I got home it was getting jumpy again.  My SO insists
on a speedo, what can I do.  Has anyone else had this problem or have any
solutions?

Thanks in advance,
Fred
'71 SIIA 88"
Boston, MA  USA

Fred Ellsworth
fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com
(617) 441-2113

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 11:09:14 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Remote Brake Servo & Adjust 109 Brakes

 Randall asks;

> Tom,
> You wouldn't happen to remember the kit #s would you?
-
After my posts today you *really* expect me to remember a kit # from 
twelve years ago? :-)
Seriously, I don't remember, but I may still have one at 
home. I'll check. If I can remember.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 12:07:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: Pos. vs Neg. ground? (Important correction! )

    While everyone has been adding useful info (er, sometimes even more
    useful after being corrected, heh heh...), there were two key points
    that nobody seems to have caught in the original posting:

    -- It sounded like there was no battery in the car when he hauled it
    out of its resting place, so he needs to know how to install a
    battery!  (Saying "look at which post goes to the frame" doesn't
    help in this situation.)

    -- It had an alternator installed (Delco I believe).

    Doesn't that second one just about guarantee that it needs to be
    hooked up negative ground?  No matter how it was shipped from the
    factory originally?

    Duncan, being down to "earth"

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@biddeford.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 12:09:26 -0500
Subject: Re: Remote Brake Servo & Adjust 109 Brakes

> Steven L. Meier writes:
> snip
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> diaphrams as did the boosters on both my 109's. (Of course they may 
> have been rebuilt before and leather diaphrams replaced)
Victoria British (1-800-255-0088) (is that how this thread started?) also 
carries the Girling repair kits for 5 and 7 inch servo's in two types and 
for the Lockheed units, since they were used in Sunbeam Tigers and Alpines.

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 11:24:51 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Pos. vs Neg. ground?

Duncan writes:
>     While everyone has been adding useful info (er, sometimes even more
>     useful after being corrected, heh heh...), there were two key points
>     that nobody seems to have caught in the original posting:
-
Sure, twist the knife :-)

>     -- It sounded like there was no battery in the car when he hauled it
     out of its resting place, so he needs to know how to install a
     battery!  (Saying "look at which post goes to the frame" doesn't
     help in this situation.)
-
I did say (lost amoungst my ramblings) that you could tell from the 
terminal sizes, maybe.

>     -- It had an alternator installed (Delco I believe).
 
     Doesn't that second one just about guarantee that it needs to be
     hooked up negative ground?  No matter how it was shipped from the
     factory originally?
- Exactly right. 
>     Duncan, being down to "earth"
Glad someone is.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: tmindt@mho.net (Ted Mindt)
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 10:47:55 +0000
Subject: '59 Series II for Sale

I have a 1959 Series II swb for sale. It appears to be completely original 
except for the front left fender and the rear tailgate.  It has a 
safari top and 16" wheels. The body has quite a few dents and scrapes but is 
servicable and it has the original light green paint. The frame is in 
excellent condition with no rust.  I purshased it from the original owner
 in Wyoming with the idea that it only needed a little work, however 
after getting it home it looks like it will need a thorough going 
over as it had sat in a barn for about 10 years. I will be looking 
into getting some pictures scanned in the next few days to email out 
to interested parties. The Rover is located in Nederland, Colorado 
(near Boulder, CO) and I am asking $1100. 

Ted Mindt
tmindt@mho.net
303-443-3777 work
303-258-0586 home - no collect calls please.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 13:12:49 -0500
From: Fred Ellsworth <fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com>
Subject: Overdrive Lube

I changed the 90wt in my Fairey Overdrive this weekend to Castrol synthetic
75-90wt.  It's expensive stuff but I figured it would only take one quart &
it would be a good cheap chance to see for myself if synthetic makes a
noticable difference in noise level/shifting/etc. (i.e. is it worth
shelling out the $$ to change over the rest of the drivetrain?).

Anyhow, now I'm thinking 75-90wt may not be thick enough for hot Boston
summers.  I've never used synthetic oil before but this stuff seemed more
like water than the honey-like consistancy of regular 90wt.

Any thoughts?

Also, can you mix synthetic oil and regular oil or is that a no no.  Does
doing so decrease the lubrication properties of both oils below that of the
regular dino stuff or just reduce the benefits of straight synth?

Fred Ellsworth
'71 SIIA 88"
Boston, MA  USA

Fred Ellsworth
fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com
(617) 441-2113

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 12:58:38 -0600
Subject: Frame Replacement Log, Week 11

Log 11

Its a rolling chassis!

A pretty good week, all in all.

First step was to get the last four rear spring bushings in place. As I   
said before, I had no tools that would have done it, so I brought the lot   
to a spring company here in town to have them press them in. I kind of   
felt like I was cheating, until they called to inform me that *they*   
couldn't get them in either. :-(

So, I had them make me new top leaves, which I rationalized would give me   
a little extra life to the springs.

With that done, getting the rear axle replaced was no big deal - I was   
able to handle it alone, unlike the front.

Then, it was put the wheels back on and prepare for the motor.

Saturday came and I mananged to round up three helpers (father-in-law,   
brother, and a friend), rented a hoist and sling for $30, bought an extra   
7 feet (or 2 meters) of chain and a hook, and generally removed   
everything that could have gotton in the way and swept the floor well.

We assembled the hoist, and positioned the chains. The front we attached   
to the lift hook on the head. In the back, we looped the chain around the   
gearbox behind the main selector lever and blocked it with a 2x4 to keep   
it in place, and lifted it right out.

I didn't forget to mention loosening up all the mounts. We didn't have to   
 - they were *all* sheared. The motor was just sitting there by it own   
weight and the drive shafts. Plus, on side of the gearbox crossmember had   
compleatly broken free of the frame. Real safe, eh? I'm really, really   
glad I'm doing this now...

Armed with 4 cans of degreaser and a power washer, we rolled the   
motor/gearbox out to the driveway, lowered it onto some blocks, and hosed   
it down. Hey! The gearbox is silver! Wow... I think about 10 pounds of   
grime came off of it, and that was only about 75% of the crud.

We got ready with new motor mounts, and lowered the motor back into the   
new frame. And now was the moment of truth. I was silently concerned   
about alignment with the new gearbox crossmember. Not that I don't trust   
Ray and his welding ability when we put it on. But that was then and this   
is now and for keeps.

We lowered it down and CLICK! Everything fell exactly into place!   
Excellent job on the weld, Ray! Tighten everything down, and we're set.   
If a motor could look happy, this is the one. Now straight, clean,   
secure, I can feel it begging for rough terrain.

So, on to some little things: put the new shocks on (RS5000s), bump   
stops, axle straps (completing the suspension), drive shafts, exhaust   
pipes (except the muffler - I forgot half the clamp), middle coolent   
hose.

Its starting to look like a truck again. :-) This week its get the   
bulkhead out for paint. One small problem with that, though. The hinge   
for the vent door is full of zinc (from being galvanized), and my drill   
won't get into the hole. Any suggestions? Where does zinc melt (can I   
work it with a propane torch)?

And, its begin working the hydraulics. Good fun! And the 8" of snow we   
picked up should be a great help, along with the single digit temps, I'm   
set.

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW "The Rover That Ate My Life"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 19:15:21 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: SIII - brownish gook in the rocker cover

Brownish gook is likely to be a result of condensation contamination. 
Danish winters must produce high humidity levels under the bonnet 
(hood). It is unlikely to be anything more than this, but TeriAnn's 
advice is always to be respected, and every other potential leakage 
source should be investigated.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 15:28:49 -0500
From: Fred Ellsworth <fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com>
Subject: LR Painting 

I must be inspired by the warm weather but this is the last question of the
day.

Has anyone used that self-etching primer that comes in spray cans from the
Eastwood Company?  The coming of spring has turned my thoughts to a new
(low budget) coat of paint.

My current body/paintwork is pretty rough, many dents & dings, paint gone
in some places, there in others.  What do people think of me doing the
project in stages, say pulling off a wing when I have time, knocking out
the dents, not stripping it but just spraying over the old semi-painted
surface with self etching primer, bondoing where needed, then a final coat
of spray-can primer to seal it up till the whole vehicle is done & ready
for the final topcoat all at once?

Is this an unrealistic plan?  Can you spray a decent topcoat over a spray
can applied base.  Will the self-etching primer really work well enough on
the alternately painted & bare surfaces?

Suggestions are welcome...

Fred Ellsworth
'71 SIIA 88"
Boston, MA  USA

Fred Ellsworth
fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com
(617) 441-2113

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 20:50:15 +0000 (GMT)
From: Tantrum <hec2@coventry.ac.uk>
Subject: Discovery Project

I am a third year student at Coventry University and my project is on the 
success of the Discovery. I am very grateful for the help already 
received. However, I still need more info, particularly on your opinions 
of the Discovery compared to its main competitors. Also, I need to get 
hold of copies of printed advertising campaigns run by Land Rover in the 
US. If you can help in any way please contact me at  hec2@coventry.ac.uk
I would be very grateful!!

------------------------------

Date: 25 Mar 96 16:29:22 EST
From: Jos Prinsen <100735.2330@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: LPG (propane gas) powered LRs

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	David L Dean, INTERNET:DEAND@kea.lincoln.ac.nz
TO:	(unknown), INTERNET:LAND-ROVER-OWNER@PLAYGROUND.SUN.COM
DATE:	24-03-96 18:14

RE:	Re: LPG (propane gas) powered LRs

	id SAA19301; Sun, 24 Mar 1996 18:04:44 -0500
	id PAA04946; Sun, 24 Mar 1996 15:02:32 -0800
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 10:56:09 +1200
From: David L Dean <DEAND@kea.lincoln.ac.nz>
Subject: Re: LPG (propane gas) powered LRs
X-To: lro@playground.sun.com
X-Cc: Jonathan Badger <badger@tipcote.demon.co.uk>
X-edited-by: LRO-Lite
Message-ID: <bulk.4937.19960324150159@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

Jonathan & LRO,

> Thanks for your info about LPG things in NZ. If only our own governemnt
> were enlightened enough to make LPG so cheap!
It's probably because we have more gas than oil resources.

> I think all this is due to my lack of compression on 2 cylinders,
> below average on 2 more, & average on the remaining 2. Anyone got
> any ideas? - I'm doing a head rebuild already.
>From my experience, the LPG units have a idle mixture adjustment 
which allows a small amount of gas to flow independent of the normal 
delivery system.  If this isn't working the revs would have to be 
very high to keep the motor going.  I'm sure the lack of compression 
doesn't help.
 
> One other question; Should LPG go in before or after the carb?
If the LPG unit goes in before the carb AND you have an automatic 
choke, it makes it almost impossible to run LPG on a cold engine.  
When the choke is engaged, there isn't enough vacuum to drive the LPG 
delivery system.  

=========================

My '71SIIA 88"  is running on a LPG system where the 
gas goes in before the carb.On the intake manifold 
(behind the carb) is a sensor-tube connected that 
goes to a vaporizor. The amount of gas that comes out 
of the vaporizor is related to the under-pressure in 
the intake manifold. If the gaspedal is pressed down 
the vacuum in the intake manifold decreases and the 
vaporizor reacts by sending more gas. The idle output 
is adjustable with a knob on the vaporizor. In the 
hose between the vaporizor and gas injection-point is a 
knob that adjusts the max gas output from the vaporizor.

   [airfilter]==========>[carburetor]==============>[cylinders]
                 ^                            |
           [knob in tube]               [sensor tube]
                 ^                            | 
                 =======[vaporizor]------------
                             ^
                        [liquid-gas]
  

Hope the drawing makes any sense...    :-))

For lubrication of the exhaustvalves it is sensible to run 
on leaded fuel for a while every 200km or so.

greetings,  Jos.
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 16:43:12 -0500
From: Steve MARGOLIS <sim1@cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: Registering an Import w/ your state...

>I've got a question on what I do once my vehicle gets thru
>customs/EPA/DOT/DOAgr.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
>true...)?
>Anyone have experience with this?

I guess I missed this when it came in.  In 1966, I picked up a Rover 2000TC=
 at Solihull, scared European drivers for a few weeks, then dropped it off=
 at LeHavre for shipment to NY.  (It came over on the liner France.)  I=
 retrived it at the docks in NYC at the beginning of July, and although the=
 regulations in the state where I lived required its registration within=
 something like 21 days, I figured I had paid a lot of money for the British=
 registration which expired on August 31.  So, I just drove it on the=
 British plates until the first of September.  The real savings came in=
 being able to park anywhere that wasn't a tow-away zone.  I had a fine=
 collection of parking tickets, each of which duly recorded the license=
 number and had USA filled in for the state.  I imagine the rule that=
 applies for registering it is the one in effect for the state where you=
 have your drivers license. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 16:58:59 -0600 (CST)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: 1968 LR fenders

My 1969 had fenders with flat fronts but the previous owner put Ser III 
fenders on.  The original ones became known as "bug eye" fenders because 
the headlights stuck out "proud" from the metal.  I think they only 
lasted a few years at best.  Hope this helps.  By the way, you can see 
this style on the front of the Rebuilding Your Land Rover Book.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 18:06:12 -0500
Subject: Trailers, US vs MOD

On 3/24 tbonanno asked about manuals for ex-MOD trialers and similarity to
M-100, 416 US 1/4 ton trailers. 
Reply: My Potrayal Press cat. doesnt show manuals for Brit. trailers, but you
could call & ask them @(201)579-5781.I also noted in LROI that some of the
Ex-MOD dealers in the UK advertise manuals for AFV they sell. They might have
them. I am posting this reply to the LRO in hopes that someone out there has
such a thing and can help.
I dont think there is enough in common with the US trailers to make getting a
manual for them worthwhile if you have a MOD trailer. In any case there
should be a data plate somewhere on the trailer that gives spec.s, contract
data etc. I REALLY wanted a Sankey built MOD trailer but figured the cost to
get it here would be too much, so I settled for the cheap domestic brand.
Another way to tell the trailers apart is that the US ones have sep. fenders
and look like the back of an old step side pick-up, wereas the MOD trailers
have flat sides forming wheel wells and hence more space. Plus they would
also have those mil. screw on lenses like Lightweights. The M-100 wa built in
the 50s to go with the M-38a1(=CJ5) and has round fenders. The M-416 has
angular fenders and was meant to go with the M-151 Mutt. Cheers. Andy

------------------------------

From: BDaviscar@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 18:16:11 -0500
Subject: Re: The Land Rover zone (wasOwner Daily Digest)

In a message dated 96-03-24 04:28:54 EST, you write:

I'm looking for a space to rent outside the space time continum that I can
move to to avoid the time that  the continuim collapses.

I think all you really need to do for this is turn on lots of virtual 
memory, and then create a large RAM disk.

Or a tardis. maybe the good doctor will help!

Bruce

------------------------------

Date: 	Mon, 25 Mar 1996 15:26:44 -0800
From: cyoungso@direct.ca (Chris Youngson)
Subject: Land-Rover Off-Road Event, Hemlock Valley, BC

All are invited to the event being held by the Rover-Landers of BC.

Where: Hemlock Valley Recreation Area

When: April 27-28, 1996. Overnighters arrive Saturday afternoon, daytrippers
please arrive before 10 Sunday morning. There will be a nominal $5 fee.

There will be overnight accommodations graciously provided by Ron
Gornischeff for those wanting to stay over. For those not staying over
Saturday night, the group will be leaving "The Treehouse" at 10 am Sunday
morning. We won't wait after 10 so arrive early.

When you arrive at Edelweiss Drive look for a 12 unit log condo 
with the sign "Rocky Bluff". We will be at Unit #1, "The Treehouse"
The telephone number there is #797-4429.

For more information contact:

Chris Youngson
Phone: 926-5094/8855
Fax: 926-6282
Email: cyoungso@direct.ca
 Don Youngson                               E-Mail address: kinley@direct.ca

  West Vancouver, B.C.                   Fax: +8.604.926.6282
  Canada V7V 1V4            

  House 28-A, Posyetskaya Str.       Fax: +7.4232.22.39.12
  Vladivostok, Russia 690000
  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 23 Mar 96 15:27:26 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: RE: Lights

I bought a pair of "Black Magic" Hella 1000's for my 88 RR. These lamps look 
black when not on, but are extremely bright, offering a great, wider area of 
coverage when on.  I removed the spoiler and so didn't have the lower driving 
lights anymore. The wattage was slightly higher from the lower driving lamps 
to the Black Magic lamps. I wired the Hellas to the original factory wiring 
for the driving lamps. They work fine. 

I mounted mine to the bumper, there is enough room to mount Hella 2000's to a 
standard RR / Disco bumper. 

Mark

----------
From:  Paul Orland
Sent:  Friday, March 22, 1996 12:27 PM
Subject:  Re: Lights

At 10:48 AM 3/22/96 -0500, Robert A. Virzi wrote:
>The >other< list is having a discussion relating to lighting.  I'm
>wondering if any recent coil sprung owners have modified their lights.
>  Anybody tried lamp upgrades or the like?

I am making the following modifications:

1. Replace stock 60/55W H4 bulbs with 100/80W H4 bulbs (Hella's, although I
dont think the bulbs themselves make that much difference)

2. Move PIAA Pro-80 130W Fogs from Montero onto Disco, using PIAA's GREAT
wiring harness, replaceing toggle switch with factory Disco fog light switch
(just recieved it, about $11) and wired into high beams.

Yes, that's right, I'm wiring the "fog" lights to high beams. If anyone is
considering buying a high wattage aux. light, I would stongly recommend
fog's vs. driving or pencils. Pencils are nearly useless except in loooonggg
straights, Fogs are geat for illuminating curves, but when aimed up a
little, are completely blinding to oncoming traffic.

Concerns:
--------------
A. Can factory headlamp wiring harness handle the 100/80W bulbs in the
factory headlamps? If not, PIAA makes a relay/wiring kit that uses the
factory wiring to control the lights, but wires up power directly from the
battery using a relay, as do their aux. lights with PIAA wiring harnesses.
(About $80).

B. Will heat from 100/80W bulbs damage the lexan headlight covers? I don't
really think so, but would bum heavily if I melted 'em.

C. Should I mount the PIAA's directly to the bumper or postpone the project
until I get a grill guard or ($$$) a Safari Guard front bumper setup.

D. Figuiring out the pinouts of the factory switch. It is a lighted switch
and has five contacts, labeled 1-5. Pin 1,4,5 seem to be connected with
switch off, 1,2,4,5 connected with switch on. My GUESS as to the wiring from
this is:

 1: Power in: (from High Beam feed if I want circuit switched with High's)
 2: Power out: to aux. light relay
 3: Ground??
 4: Not used. Connected to 1.
 5: Not used. Connected to 1.

Switch then would only be used when I don't want my PIAA's go go on when
headlights and highbeams are on.

Anyone have a wiring diagram for a '96 Disco with factory fog's? Does the
wiring diagram have pin numbers on the fog light switch? 
Comments/Confirmation?

Anyone know alternator output of a '94 Disco? 460W/13V = 35 Amps of
headlights alone!

- Paul.

94 NAS Disco V8i Red, with Soon to be VERY bright headlights!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 19:03:41 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Fuel Tanks - Shipping & Sealers

Jeff sez...

>If the leaks on your fuel tank are easy to get at, there is a old VW trick
>(at least from an old VW repair manual) to make a temporary fix.
>Take a bar of soap and rub it into the hole(s).  Continue rubbing until the
>fuel leak stops.
-

The soap trick does work - but you have to be able to get to the leak and
hope that the soap doesn't get washed off by water later on. The trouble is
that most of the leaks are caused by corrosion between the tank and the
skid-plate. Using a tank sealer is only a temporary fix (I've tried it more
than once) unless you can get it professionally done.

Cheers
Mike
 

------------------------------

From: houniet@xs4all.nl
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 17:16:28 +0000
Subject: Re: SIII - brownish gook in the rocker cover

Jens,
It is indeed as TeriAnn says, water in the system. To be exact it 
about the same as mayonase (not as tasty though), a churned up 
mixture of water and oil.
There are a number of things to check when you notice this stuff.
1. Small, water ==> oil leakage. I don't now of a good way to find 
out if this is the case.
2. Many short trips in cold weather. As the engine cools after use, a 
small amount of condensed water builds up and mixes with the oil when 
it is next used. The only resoloution is to drive long enough for the 
engine to warm up completely and evaporate the water.
2a. Is the engine warming up enough, check whether the thermostat 
isn't stuk open.
3. Oil pressure. If the oil pressure is way to high or low, it can 
cause the levels of oil to be to high or low and that will cause the 
oil to be move in ways it wasn't designed to.

It isn't something to be to worried about, as it is only really 
damaging for engines with OHC. (It doesn't lubricate vey well!)
The reworking of the cylinder head will certainly have an positive 
effect on the gook, but it won't harm to keep have a look if there 
are no other causes.
One more thing, high quality oils are designed to prevent this 
happening. Just remember that resonable / good oil 
(e.g. Casterol GTX 3) really does help preserve the engine, and that 
sticking to one brand is a good idea, as the different parts of the 
engine get 'used' to that oil.

(I don't work for an oil comany! but I've seen many examples of 
people underestimating the importance of oil quality.)

Hope this'll help,
Floris 'Shut yer trap' Houniet. (Haarlem, NL)
1968 109 IIa.

------------------------------

From: BwanaE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 20:03:26 -0500
Subject: Speedo re-builds ...

Anybody out there remember the name and phone number of the east coast (N.J.
?)
company which specializes in rebuilding British (Smiths and Jaeger)
instruments. I believe the owner's name is Bob Castagnetta, but have no other
details.

Thanks,     Eric.

------------------------------

Date: 25 Mar 96 21:40:19 EST
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: RR  brochures

Amongst the souvenirs that I save are RR sales brochures.  Does any one have a
surplus sales brochure for the 88 and 89 model years in the US ?  I have an 89
UK brochure that I would exchange, or I  would purchase for a nominal sum. 
 I have the US 90 and 92 model years, any others may also be of interest.

 Regards   Bill Leacock    Limey in exile  LR Owner - and aspiring RR re-owner

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 22:00:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Speedo re-builds ...

Eric asks:

>Anybody out there remember the name and phone number of the east coast (N.J.
>?)
>company which specializes in rebuilding British (Smiths and Jaeger)
>instruments. I believe the owner's name is Bob Castagnetta, but have no
other
>details.

Don't know if this is the same one. From Hemmings: Insturment rebuilding:
Smiths and Jaeger.......Nisonger Instrument, 570 Mamaroneck Amve, Mamaroneck,
NY 10543 914-381-1952, Fax 914-381-1953

David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 18:43:11 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Scotty's adaptors

Scotty can be reached via <jhowat@aol.com> or 1-415-686-2255.  Hope this 
helps!  (Watch out for the aliens near the ceiling, though, if you ever 
play poker with him!)  8^)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 18:43:34 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Supply and Dementia

> motorcycle. The prices have been blown WAY out of proportion to the 
> actual value of the vehicle simply by virtue of rarity. Look at what 
> these trucks sell for in the UK where there is a greater abundance. 

You're right, but you're also missing the point.  The value of something 
is what it can be sold for.  Yes, a D110 is far more valuable in the 
states than in the UK.  For exactly the reason you stated: rarity.  That 
is, if you live in the states, and really want a D110, your *only* choice 
(without lots of hassles) is a '93.  So the question becomes, how much do 
you want it?  I would happily pay $5K, maybe even $10K.  But I don't want 
them that bad.  

Imagine if you had a D110 for sale.  You get home and find two messages 
-- one offering you the $10K you're asking, and one offering $40K.  Who 
are you gonna call back?  What if you knew you could get $45K if you held 
out another week?  As long as there are folks who have the $40K+ to 
spare, that price will hold.  Plain and simple.  Nothing wrong with it 
either.

Of course, I think that the $250-$1000+ asked for fugio cents is 
ridiculous -- After all, the face value is only one cent.  Of course 200 
years ago, they were worth only one cent.  But that was then and this is 
now.

> I think anyone who would pay much more for something than it is worth 
> is a  fool. 

No, they just have more $ or more desire than you.  

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 22:32:20 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Cool LR Sighting, etc...

Fred Ellsworth asks about speedo cables...

>(what's that smell, dear?).  Anyway, I put it in yesterday afternoon and
>the needle action was smooth and sure, put 60 non-stop RT miles on it last
>night and by the time I got home it was getting jumpy again.  My SO insists
>on a speedo, what can I do.
-

The problem might be with the output shaft on the transfer box. There is an
adjustment for the bearing pre-load which involves changing shims between
the speedometer housing and the transfer box. Basically what's going on is
there might be too much play front to back on the output shaft. The worm
gear which drives the speedometer pinion is on this shaft.

I know it sounds goofy, but it will cause the speedometer to jump.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 22:32:22 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: basic charging/electrical questions

Vel asks...

>According to the workshop manual, the voltage/current regulator should
-stop charging the battery when it's fully charged.  (and I should then
-be running off the dynamo, right?)  It appeared that the battery was
-very strong and that I wasn't running off of it.  If so, why was the
>charge light on, and why was I reading below 0 amps?

Just for the sake of arguement, lets assume that your Rover is wired
correctly. The charging circuit from the voltage regulator to the battery
goes through the ammeter. So, if your ammeter is showing a discharge, the
voltage regulator (and dynamo) is not providing enough power to the battery. 

Now, if that is the case, then you probably weren't drawing enough power to
drain the battery. You did say you had turned off the lights and wipers, so
the only power the battery was providing to was the ignigtion - not enough
to kill the battery. I would say you have a charging problem. Look for the
simple stuff first, like a loose fan belt or even a wire off the dynamo.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 22:32:27 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Pos. vs Neg. ground? (Important correction! )

Duncan adds...

>    -- It sounded like there was no battery in the car when he hauled it
.....snip,,,,,
>    -- It had an alternator installed (Delco I believe).
....
>    Doesn't that second one just about guarantee that it needs to be
>    hooked up negative ground?  No matter how it was shipped from the
>    factory originally?
-

I would tend to agree on both points. It's not too likely someone took the
trouble to convert a Delco for positive ground. The only way to check would
be to use a meter to read the polarity of the diodes inside the alternator.
Not worth the trouble IMHO.

Drop a bettery in, hook it up as negative ground and look out for sparks!!
If you do smoke the Delco, you can always get another one (cheap) at a local
wrecking yard.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 22:32:29 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Land Rover for sale

I found this in the most recent copy of the local "Want Ad Digest"

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------
Land Rover '59 Series IIa : rare 4x4, RHD wgn, EC, 4cyl w/OD, locking hubs,
16" wheels, many new parts, driven daily, $9995 - Clifton Park, NY - (518)
371-7809
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------

So, I called the number and spoke to the owner. It's a Ser II, with a IIa
engine. He brought it over from England. It had been fitted with a Range
Rover V-8 engine and some custom interior work. The V-8 threw a rod and he
replaced it with the 4 cyl engine. 

Any questions, call the owner at the above number.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 22:51:58 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Speedo re-builds ...

>>Anybody out there remember the name and phone number of the east coast (N.J.
........
>Don't know if this is the same one. From Hemmings: Insturment rebuilding:
>Smiths and Jaeger.......Nisonger Instrument, 570 Mamaroneck Amve, Mamaroneck,
>NY 10543 914-381-1952, Fax 914-381-1953

That's the one... Shouldn't be too far from where you are, Eric.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 23:29:49 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Ticked off

Jim wrote:

>Also in the skunkworks is a complete line of *Tickford* luggage!!

So *thats* what he's doing with all of the OEM Tickford tops being sent to 
him for repairs....Nifty "recycling."  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 23:29:53 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: consumer reports

While I haven't seen the new CU tests/article, the scuttlebutt is that CU 
used some rather questionable methodology.  For instance, in the wet and dry 
braking tests, they used the Disco's *worst* of six for their final results. 
In each group of tests, one of the the Disco's stops was actually the 
*shortest* distance.  It seems to me that CU has become quite biased in 
their reporting.  They expect all vehicles to handle and have the fuel 
economy of a Toyota Camry on and *off* the road.  Off-road performance 
doesn't matter a wit.  From now on, I'm not going to use CR for anything 
more complex than rating dishwasher detergent or house paint.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: John Putnam <jdputnam@pacifier.com>
Subject: Carb Help
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 20:49:26 -0800

Hello all,

I've been  the proud owner of my SWB '70 SIIa and it has not let me down =
no matter what I have asked of it.  In the last year, we have traveled =
over 20,000 miles on road and trail.  Now it is time to pay back my =
loyal stead, the two barrel Weber carb is in dire need of a complete =
rebuild.  I need a little help with the following questions.

1)  What combination of jets should I use as a starting point in the =
rebuild.  I live in Portland, OR which is in a relative moist & mild =
climate at sea level.  I know that its going to take a lot of playing =
around to get the jetting correct but I need a good starting point.  =
What I currently have is nowhere near right.

2) This summer I acquired a PCV valve form Trever Easton ( thanks again =
) and proceeded to install it.  Since I don't have the stock carb or =
manifold, I used the vacuum port at the rear of my manifold.  This hole =
is between the two rear cylinder.  I would assume that this would lean =
out these cylinders and cause a general lack of performance.  Is my view =
of the situation correct and should I attempt to tap a new vacuum feed =
at the base of the carb.

Thanks in advance.  I hope to get started this weekend.

John Putnam
SWB '70 SIIA
Beaverton, OR

------------------------------

From: Sekerere@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 00:16:23 -0500
Subject: Gov't Repos

Well just saw on the 10pm Phoenix news a dentist arrested for passing phony
bonds, and links to a violent Montana Seperatist Group. Well one of the items
in the story was how he used some of the money to buy expensive cars from a
Scottsdale car dealer. Then across the screen went a NICE looking red
Defender, and a white Range Rover. I guess some government auction is going
to be interesting in the next year or so. There may have been other vehicles,
but at least the guy had good taste. I certainly hope that the feds look
after the vehicles. Good advertisement for Land Rover Scottsdale. Can't
recall what the guy's name was though- I guess that shows that the bug has
bitten me-can remember the Land Rovers, but not the man arrested!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cheers

Chris Whitehead
1966 Series IIA 88" -out of commission and being restored

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 21:18:45 -0800
Subject: Address change

In case any of you are keeping me in your local list of email addresses, my
address is changing.

Old address:  twakeman@eworld.com

New address:  twakeman@scruznet.com

eworld will be going away at the end of march and will start bouncing
messages.

Take care,

TeriAnn Wakeman
twakeman@scruznet.com

------------------------------

From: Treski@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 00:37:58 -0500
Subject: Re: RR brochures

I am  looking  for   DEFENDER  110   original  brochures. If  anyone  has
 these,  please    notify  me.                     Thanks     ------- TRE

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 23:57:35 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: '59 Series II for Sale

> I have a 1959 Series II swb for sale. It appears to be completely 

Arggh!  If it were in California, I'd buy it in a minute!  Alas, alack, I 
have no way to get it from there to here.  But I'm sure someone will snap 
it up quickly.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 23:57:31 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Cool LR Sighting, etc...

> Has anyone else had this problem or have any solutions?

Mine lasts a little longer than yours seems to, but I have the same 
symptoms.  I was under the impression, however, that it was a matter of a 
bad speedo.  I just live without it, myself.  

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 23:57:28 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Zen and Survival

Sorry this is so late...  It ended up with the wrong address and bounced 
back to me...

The Comet's acoming and yer heading for them thar hills...

> In your driveway are the following vehicles:
> a '66 IIa 88 SW (pppy red, no less :-) ), an '85 RR classic, and a '94
> Disco. 

> Which vehicle do you choose? Why?

Not being anywhere near as familiar with the RR and Disco as I'd like, My 
answer may not be correct for my reasoning, but...

I'd pick the Range Rover.

Because that tankful of gas will get you to the mountains, but once the 
comet hits, you're not going to get another one.  Contrary to what 
Hollywood would have us believe, there won't be plenty of gas available 
if you're willing to kill for it.  So, I'll pick the vehicle with the 
most interior room, and the most luxury.  Because that automobile will 
become a non-mobile domicile pretty quick.  Also, the RR probably has a 
CD Player (no radio after the comet), which can be powered from a solar 
cell I'd stop and pick up at West Marine on the way out of town.  

But actually, I'd take my 109", loaded with the bed & cabinets & 
camping/backpacking gear, etc.  

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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