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From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: why don't I get lro mail?
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 12:59:57 +0100 (MET)

hi folks,
I didn't get any lro mail since about Feb. 27 and the server
does not respond to my mail. Is this a general problem (then 
you won't get this mail) or is it just me who got cut of the
best source of Land Rover wisdom in the universe.

Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 08:09:37 -0500 (EST)
From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall Thomas)
Subject: Re: Drool Factory (Series)

>o' paint for the frame. I'm thinking about using Eastwood's Coroless with
>>Chassis Black on top, or Black Hammerite. Any ideas?

The best combo I've used is Corroless followed by two heavy coats of 
yellow zinc chromate primer followed by  two heavy coats of single part 
modified epoxy enamel.

I live in rural Pennsylvania and this is a popular scheme for tractor and
other agricultural
vehicle frames.  I use battleship gray for topcoat so it only takes 2
seconds for me to look below 
and see an oil leak.

------------------------------

Subject: help
From: Marc Rengers <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 14:39:27 +0100

help

Marc Rengers
Groningen, Holland
mr@grant.media-gn.nl

   #=====#          #=========#         
   |___|__\___      |____|__|__\___    
   | _ |   |_ |}    |  _ \  |   |_ |}
   "(_)""""(_)"     "-(_)"""""""(_)" 
                                  
 1977  88" III HT    1987 110" StaWag 
    Petrol               Diesel  
   23-76-XB             RH-12-PF

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Errattic 2 1/4
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 08:41:00 EST

Greg Moore writes "My 2 1/4 petrol doesn't seem to like cold, damp weather. 
It stalls at
stop signs and backfires (exhaust) on decelleration.

These symptoms sound just like the carb. icing problem encountered by some 
of us. When you shut it off for five minutes it allows time for heat from 
the exhaust to travel into the carb. thaw the ice and prevent recurrence. 
The combination of reduced pressure and evaporating fuel makes the carb. 
venturi very cold and the damp air just forms frost that builds up and 
restricts the air flow. Rerouting the engine breathers can sometimes help as 
it eliminates those water vapours that start in the crankcase.

Hope this helps
Trevor

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 06:43:49 -0800
Subject: Re: rust treatments

David Olley says:

>I envy you your TR3. There are so few of this marque left in the 
> UK because they mostly rusted away years ago.

Mine mostly rusted away years ago.  Thats why its been such a project
converting back into a new car.  About 65% of the panels & body are new or
new to the car.

 I think the car would have been finished a few years ago if I had a garage
to work on the car in.  The car is being rebuilt on dirt under a large oak
tree.  I have a car cover and a  tarp covered frame that doesn't give me
working space with the sides of the tarp sides down.  Its been raining almost
every weekend for a few months now & I was ill for over a month before then.
 I'm afraid I have not seen the TR since November.  The project is abour 85
to 87% completed and I need to get it back on the road before i take the Land
Rover off the road to be rewired and repainted.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Subject: fuel guage
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 07:00:37 -0800

Hi my thoughts on Hugh Grieson's fuel guage question is:
The guage isn't supposed to get reversed to do a + to - earthing swap.
I would try the wires back the other way. (If you are sure they were reversed)
It'll just cost another fuse to find out.
Also if you have the fast type guage, then it's early 2A and doesn't have
the voltage regulating resistor.

Bob B

------------------------------

From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Subject: wiper motor parts
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 07:00:40 -0800

Hi all,
A friend has a 65-88 with a stripped gear in one of the wiper motors.
Is there any place that supplies the gears for these old motors?
Thanks,
Bob Bernard

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 09:49:04 -0800
From: Solihull <fiction1@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RR Bull Bar for sale

Hi,
I'm selling a Range Rover bull bar with hinged lamp guards.
$195 plus delivery ($25 in the U.S.)
Please E-mail if interested.
Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 16:11:44 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: help

Marc Rengers wrote:
> help

This is the Coast Guard.

Please give your position. Over.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 14:11:55 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: RE: NH Spring Safari

We adopt the tread lightly program. We carry chain saws to remove FALLEN tress 
from the track. They also came in very useful for cutting discarded telegraph 
poles to help fix a broken bridge. We would never go into any woods to chop 
down tress !!! 

I would recommend that anyone going off-roading in the woods, take at least an 
ax. Chain saw will cut much quicker !!! If you have a fallen tree across you 
path, and you are on a legal right of way, then you at least have a chance to 
continue !!!! instead of turning back. 

Mark

----------
From:  ChrisF6724@aol.com
Sent:  Tuesday, March 19, 1996 2:05 PM
Subject:  RE: NH Spring Safari

I was wondering if you follow the Tread Lightly program?  Chainsaws and axes
don't meet this criteria....  I assume you're going to go out on government
land (do what you want on private land).  Basically, the Tread Lightly
program is the idea that you leave no sign that you where ever there.  The
reason behind this is that there are alot of "tree-huggers" & politicans out
there who would very much like to ban all off-road activities (there are also
alot of clubs trying to oppose closures...).  Alot of trails have already
been closed thoughout the nation (two of my favorites were shut down last
year) because of the damage done by careless off-roaders...  If you tear up
the land, they will take that right away from all of us and future off-road
driving will be done on like it is in Japan, on a private resort where you
will have too pay membership fees...  None of us want that, do we?  Do your
part and clean-up after yourselves... What would you do with a chainsaw
off-road anyway? I sure hope you're not cutting down trees for a new trail,
or worse is cutting down obstacles placed to keep you off the trail (yes,
I've seen this done too!)

Sorry to rag, and I appologize if you do follow Tread Lightly principles.

If you want more info on the Tread Lightly program, I'd be happy to get you
their phone #

Chris Fisher   '73 Land Rover 88 Series III

------------------------------

From: Guy Arnold <GUY@facade.adm.clarkson.edu>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 11:38:31 EDT
Subject: Land-Rovers in Lake Placid

I was in Lake Placid last weekend for the ECAC hockey finals. I had 
to sell and handle Clarkson University's will call tickets, one of my 
many job duties. I did see two local Discos in town and on Friday 
night I spotted a 1972 or 73 Series III swb in the Olympic arena 
parking lot. The vehicle was pastel green with white top and had a 
homemade roof rack. It had NY plates so I suspect it belonged to a 
Cornell fan. I know it was not a Clarkson fan and the other fans were 
from University of Vermont and Harvard. So if it was a Cornell fan 
here is your chance to rub in to a Clarkson hockey fan. Cornell 
dominated us even though the score was only Cornell 3 vs Clarkson 0. 
If it was someone from Ithaca you had a good drive to Lake Placid 
especially over all the frost heaves on Route 3.
Well I might see the same Land-rover in Albany this weekend because 
Clarkson and Cornell will be playing in the NCAA East Regionals. I 
plan to make a trip to Alantic-British in Mechanicsville on Friday or 
Saturday. 
 Guy Arnold
 Clarkson University
 1973 Series III swb "Green Machine"
 1960 MGA 1600 roadster (for show only as far as the insurance is 
concerned)

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: why don't I get lro mail?
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 12:59:57 +0100 (MET)

hi folks,
I didn't get any lro mail since about Feb. 27 and the server
does not respond to my mail. Is this a general problem (then 
you won't get this mail) or is it just me who got cut of the
best source of Land Rover wisdom in the universe.

Franz
---------------------------------------------------------------
Franz Parzefall                 tbr1102@sunmail.lrz-muenchen.de

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 09:17:40 -0800
Subject: Re: fuel guage

The flow of electricity should go battery to one fuel guage terminal, through
fuel guage to other terminal.  Second terminal to snder unit then chassis
ground.  If your guage were bad there would be a pathway between the
terminals and the metal case of the guage.  If you disconnect both wires
going to the fuel guage, and measure the resistance between ether terminal
and the metal case, there should be infiniate or very high rersistance.  If
the resistance is low, you have a short to ground in the guage.

If everything is connected except for the connection at the sender unit, the
wire should read the same voltage as the battery.  There should be no current
flow.

I would check the guage for a short, the wires where they go against metal
then if the problem is not obvious, isolate and check the circuit  section by
section..

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date:     Wed, 20 Mar 96 11:04:17 EST (1604Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Re:  rust treatments

TeriAnn,

Are you sure your kinfolk didn't move
to California from Arkansas during the
Depression?  From your description of
your "workshop", you sound like me and
the rest of my family from the Ozarks!!

     8-)

"But honey, the kids' swing set makes such
a good A-frame to pull that engine."

Larry "Just a hillbilly at heart" Smith

------------------------------

From: ChrisF6724@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 13:17:42 -0500
Subject: RE: NH Safari

Sorry, I did not mean to pick on the NH Safari guys by saying that they were
being irresponsible.  I thought it might be possible because I remember
hearing about cutting trees and making bridges and I thought "they've seen to
many Camel trophy videos" and had visions of a bunch of guys wearing cammo,
lopping down trees, and constructing make-shift bridges across small
gullies...  Since then I have learned that they were actually doing good.
 Apparently, they were clearing a abandoned road of debris and fixing a
damaged existing bridge (nice job ;-) ) Clearing trails is an acceptable use
for a chainsaw, but in Colorado, I have seen the Park Rangers close-off
trails by dragging a downed tree across the trail and posting a sign  (this
is also where I've seen a chainsaw used improperly).  I personally carry a
hatchet and saw for firewood (dead on the ground type) when I go camping, and
have never run across something that required a chainsaw...

Some of my fear comes from seeing damage done on one of my favorite trails in
Colorado, "Holy Cross Trail", just outside of Leadville.  This is a very
difficult trail to get up, but at the top (just above timberline, and in a
bowl) there is a small stream feeding a marsh, which in turn feeds a crystal
clear lake, which dumps a waterfall off of a tall cliff into a lower lake.
 Very, very beautiful scenery, and quite a reward for a long day of boulder
crawling...  However, after one of my trips, some idiot had decided that the
marsh would make a decent mud bog and tore it up, polluting both lakes to a
muddy brown...  It wasn't long after, that the top section was closed to
off-roaders.  A few of years ago, several clubs got together and "restored"
the trail for off-road use and still maintain it today.  I still don't know
if the top is open or not :-( (haven't been back since '88).  BTW: why I like
Holy Cross so much is that it has every terrain imaginable except sand.  The
lower portions are easy, but hard on the kidneys (long sections of log
reinforced trail), and there is a professional mud bogs that could swallow
your car whole.  Mainly rock crawling (ranging from lose fist size to small
desk sized) including stair-step sections, and a nasty boulder crawl (uphill)
starting in the middle of a stream (wet tires don't get much traction ;-) )
 There is even a ghost town (a couple of cabins) I think I'll revisit it
sometime this summer (if I'm running by then) if anyone is interested...

Chris Fisher  '73 LR 88 Series III

------------------------------

From: ChrisF6724@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 13:17:52 -0500

ed someone else's vehicle was cutting in and out like mine... 

I have a Series III 88, and the manual says that I might replace the charcoal
filter.  How do check to see if this is bad (it recommends also that you
don't try and clean it)? This is only one of the problems I'm having, but it
happens most often when restarting the engine when its warm (like after I go
to a store...).  It will usually "gasp" for five or so minutes then suddenly
start working fine (occassionallly I'll have to wait til the engine cools).  

The others are that if I overfill the gas tank, it has a severe leak (haven't
looked for the obvious holes yet)...  My oil has become milky, and I now
believe that it is becoming polluted with gasoline (I'm not losing any
anti-freeze, and have cleaned the valve on the valve cover).  Steam comes out
of the oil fill cap. It marks it territory with large pools of oil.  The
engine compartment has a nice "freshly oiled" look about it.  It has been
tuned-up last month, and had a tappet adjustment last summer, but still
leaves a trail of "white fog".  All fluids are new (but oil is contaminated
quickly).  It also continually has low oil pressure.  It only gets 10-12 mpg,
and I'm pretty sure one of the cylinders has bad rings (assumed if it is gas
contamination, and loss of oil pressure), and it makes a "slapping" sound
when started cold until the oil kicks in...   Not going to talk about the
clutch problems or it popping out of first when you let of the gas... All
steel is rusted (as well as parts of the frame)  And the windshield washer
tubing has become plugged (just when it gets nasty out).  Unfortunately, I
don't have a garage, and it must be parked (and worked on) in the street.
 But it sure looks nice sitting there, and "join the dark side! Lucas
Skywalker" hasn't raised his head...

On the bright side, I'll be doing a engine /drivetrain swap in the near
future and this should solve most of my problems (and raise new ones)...

from the man who brought you dry ice air-conditioning,
Chris Fisher  '73 LR 88 Series III

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 19:25:08 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: NH Sping safari .. Repost 

All,  

I have been asked to re-post, here it is. 

I have had over a dozen requests to run another NH Safari. After the great 
time most of us had this past Saturday, I thought why not. BTW we had 13 
vehicles show up, all models, yes even 5 plushies !!! Those that want the 
details can read the report posted yesterday. 

Spring will truly be here at the end of April, so I'm planning the next run 
for 

Saturday 27th April 1996. 

We will leave Keene NH at 10AM SHARP !!!!!! The meeting point will be the same 
place, Dunkin Donuts just off the intersection with Route 10 and Route 101. 
This will give everyone a good chance to get food, coffee etc. BEFORE we start 
off. 

Logistics. 

This time instead of snow it will probably be MUD. How much will depend on how 
much more snow we get, and how quickly the ground has thawed out. But come 
prepared for mud. 

Tools: 

Tow Ropes, CB's, Hi-lift jacks, Winches, come-a-longs. Chain saws or axes.  

Bring dry socks, and maybe another pair of boots.  Certainly bring a change of 
clothes.

Hotel accommodations are available at the Days Inn or the Best Western in 
Keene. If you want me to make reservations for you e-mail me. My wife is a 
travel agent in town ! or you can just call yourself. A night's stay is about 
$40-$50. 

We will tailgate lunch out in the woods, so pre-pack a lunch BEFORE  we start 
!!!     

We will stop in the evening for a Bar-B-Q at my house, bring your own beer 
etc. 

Those that may have Discoveries or Range Rovers that want to come, REMOVE your 
front spoilers. If we get mud, you will dig them into the ground and probably 
end up carry them home in the back !!! 

We will probably encounter water, how deep again will depend on the thaw. If 
you have a wading plug put it in. If you don't have a wading plug then order 
one. With all the mud the drain hole could get blocked. 

Interestingly, out of the all the request I had for this past weekends trip, 7 
owners were not on the Internet. So tell your friends. 

I look forward to another great day in the woods. 

MARK

------------------------------

From: "Boehme, Doug" <DBOEHME@rad1.pcmail.ingr.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 14:28:00 CST

I recently made a purchase from Rover's North
(yeah, it was just a binder, but there will be more
toys in the future...) and in their catalog, they show
Bosch replacement headlights that are supposed
to be brighter than my factory headlights.  If this is
true, is it worth getting them. (I don't remember
the exact price but I remember that it wasn't too bad.)

I will be adding additional driving lights in the near
future, but I don't know if that will change my descision.

Thanks...

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 11:31:29 -0800
Subject: Re: rust treatments

>TeriAnn,
> Are you sure your kinfolk didn't move
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> your "workshop", you sound like me and
> the rest of my family from the Ozarks!!

Larry

The paternal side of the family moved to Stockton California from Missouri
during the Depression.  My mother's family moved to Stockton California from
Iowa during the depression.  By a coincidence, I was born in Stockton after
the depression.

My paternal grandfather was a share cropper until the dust bowel hit.  My
maternal grandfather was a barn stormer pilot until the cam shaft broke on
his Curtis Jenny and he died in the crash in early 1927.

But one of these days I'm gona git me a reeaaal garage

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 12:03:24 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Engine/Tread Lightly!/Dry Ice AC

Chris Fisher <ChrisF6724@aol.com> writes about his 2.25 engine:
:the engine when its warm (like after I go
:to a store...).  It will usually "gasp" for five or so minutes then suddenly
:start working fine (occassionallly I'll have to wait til the engine cools).  
:
:The others are that if I overfill the gas tank, it has a severe leak (haven't
:looked for the obvious holes yet)...  My oil has become milky, and I now
:believe that it is becoming polluted with gasoline (I'm not losing any
:anti-freeze, and have cleaned the valve on the valve cover).  Steam comes out
:of the oil fill cap.  It marks it territory with large pools of oil.  The
:engine compartment has a nice "freshly oiled" look about it.  It has been
:tuned-up last month, and had a tappet adjustment last summer, but still
:leaves a trail of "white fog".  All fluids are new (but oil is contaminated
:quickly).  It also continually has low oil pressure.  It only gets 10-12 mpg,
:and I'm pretty sure one of the cylinders has bad rings (assumed if it is gas
:contamination, and loss of oil pressure), and it makes a "slapping" sound

 Sounds to me like your getting water (steam->water) contamination in your
 oil and blowing it out of your oil filler cap.  My bet is that it's coming
 out of your tailpipe too.  This could be from a leaking head gasket, which
 also explains your slapping sound and low gas mileage.  Do a compression
 check and work on this engine immediatly.  Damage of wear caused by low
 oil pressure and waterey oil that fails to lubricate properly is serious.

Chris then writes about Treading Lightly!:
:Since then I have learned that they were actually doing good.
:Apparently, they were clearing a abandoned road of debris and fixing a
:damaged existing bridge

 Clearing off-highway roads keeps travelers on the path instead of having
 them make new trails around the obstacles --at pet peeve of Tread Lightly!
 Here in California, Rangers are suspect of travelers with chainsaws and
 such trail clearing operations are best done with their prior consent or
 by permit.  There is a fine line between clearing roadways and widening a
 a path so that vehicles can now pass through.

>from the man who brought you dry ice air-conditioning,
>Chris Fisher  '73 LR 88 Series III

 Hmmm...  I thought there was an underlying theme to this thread :)

 Cheers,

                         ______
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                    Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900            [________]               Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88")
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 16:51:07 PST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: 

I recently made a purchase from Rover's North
(yeah, it was just a binder, but there will be more
toys in the future...) and in their catalog, they show
Bosch replacement headlights that are supposed
to be brighter than my factory headlights.  If this is
true, is it worth getting them. (I don't remember
the exact price but I remember that it wasn't too bad.)

I will be adding additional driving lights in the near
future, but I don't know if that will change my descision.

Thanks...

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

Should be able to ge thtme anywhere, yes? No? As far as I know RN don't have a 
monopoly on Bosch lighting...

Dave "Not that they're expensive or anything" B.

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 14:12:37 -0800
Subject: Re: 

----------------------------- Begin Original Text -----------------------

I recently made a purchase from Rover's North
(yeah, it was just a binder, but there will be more
toys in the future...) and in their catalog, they show
Bosch replacement headlights that are supposed
to be brighter than my factory headlights.  If this is
true, is it worth getting them. (I don't remember
the exact price but I remember that it wasn't too bad.)
----------------------------- End Original Text --------------------------

I bet you could go to your local auto parts store & get brighter lights
without shipping charges. get the Hi & Lo beam wattage off your current
lights & go shopping.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date:     Wed, 20 Mar 96 16:55:13 EST (2155Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Re:  rust treatments

TeriAnn

I grew up just south of the Ark/Mo border in
what is called the Twin Lakes area.  Father's
father was a sharecropper/interant worker until
killed in an oil field boiler explosion in 1931.
Mother's father and three of four of her brothers
(eight kids total in family) worked for the 
Missouri Pacific railroad.

I keep playing the lottery and saving pennies
for a real garage too.

Take care,

Larry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 14:26:52 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@mail.comox.island.net>
Subject: Re: Errattic 2 1/4

Easton Trevor wrote:
 
> These symptoms sound just like the carb. icing problem encountered by some
> of us. When you shut it off for five minutes it allows time for heat from
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> it eliminates those water vapours that start in the crankcase.
> Hope this helps

I had dismissed this idea some time ago thinking the temperatures weren't 
cold enough. Your comments on pressure and evaporation, however, are well 
taken and lead me to think you might be right. I think I'll put a small 
shroud around the carb to divert moisture laden air. Of course I won't be 
warming the the intake air stream but perhaps I can create a semi dead 
air space through which air warmed by the manifold can rise and take the 
chill off things. I'll have to move quickly on this. Temperatures are 
warming up and I don't want to wait until next winter to find out if 
things are any better. Is that me asking for an extension of winter? Nah, 
can't be.

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 16:32:04 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@mail.comox.island.net>
Subject: Re:

>This is only one of the problems I'm having, but it
> happens most often when restarting the engine when its warm (like after I go
> to a store...).  It will usually "gasp" for five or so minutes then suddenly
> start working fine (occassionallly I'll have to wait til the engine cools).

Some older Mercedes cars had a lever operated 'flap' on the air cleaner
housing. The driver could open the flap allowing the vaporized fuel that
had accumulated in the breather to evacuate resulting in easier starts
for warm engines. You might try taking the air cleaner hose off the top
of your carb sometime when it won't start and see if that's your problem.

Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 20 Mar 96 17:57:47 MST
Subject: Dual Optima batteries in a Range Rover?

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Hello all,

My "die hard" is dying, and I need a replacement. I was thinking about
the Optima, anyone have a good source for an inexpensive Optima battery?
Yeah, I know, there is no such thing, but what's the best price out
there?

Anyone ever put dual batterys in a Range Rover? Where did you mount the
2nd battery.

Thanks, Dave (sparkey) Brown

#=======#         _________           We make a living by what we get,
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___        we make a life by what we give.
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                       Winston Churchill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 23:13:04 +0000
From: Jonathan Badger <badger@tipcote.demon.co.uk>
Subject: LPG (propane gas) powered LRs

I've just found all you other LR fans out there - here's an unusual one
for you (or perhaps it's not?).

I am the proud owner of a 1981 SIII Safari with a 2.6lt petrol engine. I
bought it because it was the model I wanted, & it has a LPG conversion.
It wasn't running in gas mode when bought (I fitted a new regulator),
but now cruises quite happily on the stuff - however, low speed running
on LPG is a non-event right now, due to low compression. I've got the
head off to fix this problem, having tested it with a decent compression
tester. The head is being skimmed & at least one exhaust valve needs
replacing.

I'm hoping that there may be someone out there who has experience with
gas conversions & that they can offer some info, hints or tips. I reckon
that the original gas equipment was supplied by LANDI-HARTOG.

Many thanks, Jonathan.
************************************************************
        JONATHAN BADGER - 1981 2.6lt SIII Safari owner
                Shepton Mallet, Somerset UK  
************************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh.Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 14:20:03 +1200
Subject: Re: fuel guage

It's all fixed.  Usual story with the electrics, somewhere in between 
disassembly and reassembly I accidently fixed it.

Bob B writes...
> The guage isn't supposed to get reversed to do a + to - earthing swap.
> I would try the wires back the other way. (If you are sure they were reversed)

You're right, in fact they weren't swapped.  I didn't quite understand
how the gauge worked before.  I've got it figured out now.

> Also if you have the fast type guage, then it's early 2A and doesn't have
> the voltage regulating resistor.

That's it.

And TeriAnn writes...
>The flow of electricity should go battery to one fuel guage terminal,
>through fuel guage to other terminal.  Second terminal to snder unit
>then chassis ground.

Right, except the gauge itself also has to be grounded to work.  
The gauge has an electromagnet between + and ground, and
another between + and the sender terminal.  Disconnect the sender
and the gauge reads full, earth the sender connection and it reads
empty.  (Polarity doesn't matter, for +ve earth read - for +).

Cheers,
Hugh
-- 
Hugh Grierson   hugh_grierson@trimble.co.nz  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 18:30:20 -0800
From: tatting@ix.netcom.com (Tim Attinger)
Subject: Reputation of Importers

To whom it may concern:

I am considering buying a refurbished/ rebuilt Series III Land Rover 
and have found a couple of businesses that obtain and refurbish used 
Series III 88" Rovers in England and then import them into the U.S.  
Before I do something like this I would like to find out if anyone has 
heard of these companies (I have spoken with British Bulldog and East 
Coast Rover and am aware of them).  The companies I would like your 
opinions on are called:

1)Land Rover Connection, run by a man named Joseph Kemp out of North 
Carolina, near Durham.  Their British operation is in Liverpool, I 
believe.

2)Renewed Traditions, run by a man named Sean Sikula out of Dunwwody, 
Georgia with the shop located in Bristol, England.

Has anyone heard of or dealt with these people?  I would appreciate the 
favor of a reply as soon as possible.

Thank you,
Tim
e-mail:tatting@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 21:29:34 -0600 (CST)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Errattic 2 1/4

Put a little methol hydrate in the gas and you won't need the shroud.  
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 21:32:33 -0600 (CST)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Reputation of Importers

Before you go overseas for a referbished Land Rover, give Paul's Safari 
Service at Niagara Falls Ontario a call.  He does this kind of work and 
when I visited him two years ago, he had lots of vehicles in.  He brings 
in containers of them and rebuilds them.  His prices were very low in 
comparison and you can pick one out after checking it out "eyeball" as it 
were.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: CrankIt@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 23:29:58 -0500
Subject: Re: 

In a message dated 96-03-20 17:04:37 EST, you write:

>I recently made a purchase from Rover's North
>(yeah, it was just a binder, but there will be more
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>true, is it worth getting them. (I don't remember
>the exact price but I remember that it wasn't too bad.)

Doug;
I changed out the original equip for a set of Hella's which are DOT approved
and they make a huge difference.  LR should just put them in at the factory.
 Mine cost about $85  for the set.  Hope the brush bar arrived ok, keep me
posted.  I'll be away from the newsgroup for a week during a trip to Tucson.

Gene Nusbaum

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Mar 96 06:16:00 UT
From: "Theodore S." <Theodore_S@msn.com>
Subject: RE: Replacement Headlights

     Hella makes some really nice replacement headlights in the form of a 
headlight conversion called: Hella Vision Plus.  The Hella Vision Plus system 
uses a 60 watt high beam / 55 watt low beam and features a replaceable bulb 
for low maintenance.  It is also DOT approved for street use in all 50 states. 
 The 60 watt high beam / 55 watt low beam may not sound that impressive at 
first, but take a look at the numbers.  The low beam has a range of 1700' and 
the high beam has a range of 3400'.  For a 50 state DOT approved street use 
headlight, those figures are impressive.  My brother and I run them on our 
D90s and they really light up the road at night.  For some driving or fog 
lamps, I recommend either PIAA or Hella.  I'm running two (2) Hella Rallye 
3000 fog lamps mounted on my front brush bar.  The Rallye 3000 fog lamps 
easily cut through heavy rain/fog as well as provide extra illumination for 
night driving.  I think one of the best setups that I have seen to date is my 
buddy Paul's Tri-Light configuration on his D90.  Paul has three (3) Hella 
Rallye 3000s mounted on his front brush bar.  Paul mounted one (1) Rallye 3000 
euro-beam in between two (2) Rallye 3000 fog lamps.  His setup is totally  
bitchin!  I should also mention that my buddy Paul also runs the Hella Vision 
Plus headlamps and he agrees that they function very well.

     Here is the number for Rovers North and some pricing information for the 
various lights that I mentioned in my message.

Rovers North (802) 879-0032
http://www.roversnorth.com

Hella Vision Plus Headlamp Conversion (Range HB 3400' / LB 1700'): $43.50 each
Hella Rallye 3000 100w Euro-Beam (Range 13300'): $135.00 each
Hella Rallye 3000 55w Fog Lamp (Range 750'): $135.00 each

----------
From:  Bobeck, David R.
Sent:  Wednesday, March 20, 1996 7:51 PM
Subject:  Re: Replacement Headlights

I recently made a purchase from Rover's North
(yeah, it was just a binder, but there will be more
toys in the future...) and in their catalog, they show
Bosch replacement headlights that are supposed
to be brighter than my factory headlights.  If this is
true, is it worth getting them. (I don't remember
the exact price but I remember that it wasn't too bad.)

I will be adding additional driving lights in the near
future, but I don't know if that will change my descision.

Thanks...

Douglas Boehme
'95 Red D90 #2767

Should be able to ge thtme anywhere, yes? No? As far as I know RN don't have a 

monopoly on Bosch lighting...

Dave "Not that they're expensive or anything" B.

------------------------------

Subject: Re: help
From: Marc Rengers <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 10:51:14 +0100

My position is Groningen, Holland!

But I don't need no help, because I'm rescued already!
The problem was I wanted the help from majordomo, but send it to the list!

Wrong!

But never-the-less thanks for your quick response.
I'm glad to know that there are really people who want to help

Marc Rengers
Groningen, Holland
mr@grant.media-gn.nl

   #=====#          #=========#         
   |___|__\___      |____|__|__\___    
   | _ |   |_ |}    |  _ \  |   |_ |}
   "(_)""""(_)"     "-(_)"""""""(_)" 
                                  
 1977  88" III HT    1987 110" StaWag 
    Petrol               Diesel  
   23-76-XB             RH-12-PF

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk
Subject: Re: rust treatments
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 10:41:08 UNDEFINED

>> There are two types. Black and gooey, and clear(ish) and more brittle. The
>         [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>Eh? What?
>I have never come across the black Waxoyl. As to shrinkage and cracking of 

No. For some reason, it's a bugger to find. Pity since it's so much better 
than the clear.

>IMHO, the thick black stuff is the worst thing you can put on 
a chassis. Any >peeling of the coating will let water in, when rust will take 
hold rapidly and >unseen. I have bitter experience of that with an Austin 
Healey. You cannot >reliably coat the inside of a chassis with a thick 
material, whereas Waxoyl can >be sprayed in, warm, when it will creep over all 

I agree completely about normal underseals. they are the kisss of death. But 
the black Waxoyl is a different animal. Like the clear, but never dries out to 
the same degree - always stays messy.......You can spray it like the clear 
stuff by cutting it to any desired sloppiness with deisel and/or putting teh 
pressure can in a bucket of HOT water.

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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