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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 08:17:01 -0500
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: Steering Box Installation

Hi all

I didn't mean the steering box question to be rhetorical but I have found an answer that 
I think may be useful to others.

ANY PRESSURE/INFLUENCE ON THE SHAFT OF THE STEERING COLUMN IS UNWANTED.

Reason:  The strain, no matter how small, causes unequal forces on the bearing surfaces 
at the steering box.  This will lead to premature failure of the bearings.  The forces 
do not have to be much, even imperceptible to your hand as the inner column is moved 
back and forth.  On installation, the steering box should be firmly attached to the 
vertical bracket, with the column extending through the hole in the dashpanel.  It 
should be in a completely neutral position before the dash bracket is attached.

Sources:  Lanny at RN and confirmed by my mechanic (who restores tow trucks for fun -- I 
wonder if there's a mailing list for THAT)

Just thought you'd want to know

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring MD, 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 08:10:17 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Lightweights

> 	Here's a question for those of you with lightweights.  What are
 the differences between the SII Lightweight (1967-1972) and the SIII 
 Lightweight (1972-~1980).  I know that circa 1970 the headlights were moved
 from the breakfast to the wings on the SII.  I assume that the SIII has the
 all syncro gearbox.  Did the SIII Lightweight get the revised dash of the
 normal SIII or did is stay with the metal dash and centrally located
> instruments?  (I'm mostly looking for visible differences)
-
SIII: Syncro gearbox, same dash (flat central intrementation) SIII 
style cowl around steering column with SIII type wiper hron swithch, 
and ignition switch. SIII type clutch, brakes. SIII type speedo 
cable. SIII type lug nuts. Hmmm, that's all I can think of off the 
top of my head. There's probably more.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 10:43:02 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Club information?

On Mon, 18 Mar 1996, Michael Carradine wrote:

>  Hmmm, ...sounds good!!  Should we join you, or maybe you would like to
>  join us?  It might be easier for you to join us, since we have over 650+
>  members already with about 250 in California, most of those in *your*
>  "neighborhood".

	Cool!  Have a list of events for this year that I can come and
	participate in?  In fact just one would do.  I know that the Bay
	State club (Mass) has their big event in the Fall, the Fall Heritage
	Rally, that ROAV (Virginia club) has the Mid-Atlantic Rally
	at the end of September, the Solihull Society (Colorado) has
	their "National" Rally, and OVLR (Canada) has the Birthday Party
	at the end of June.  What's yours?
	
	BTW, all of the above listed clubs have nice newsletters that appear
	on time (with the usual standard deviation).  How's yours doing?

	Of course, information on joining any, or all of these clubs can be
	found in the Frequently Asked Questions at 
	
			http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/ 

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 16:10:52 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: rust treatments

The anonymous azw@aber.ac.uk wrote:
> Re: Waxoyl.
> There are two types. Black and gooey, and clear(ish) and more brittle. The
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> for folk that want to use it instead f a normal paintwork polish - antique
> restorers and teh like.

Eh? What?
I have never come across the black Waxoyl. As to shrinkage and cracking of 
Waxoyl, I am surprised to hear this. I was under the impression that the whole 
benefit of Waxoyl was that it self repaired any stone chip damage etc.

If it is of interest, I will quote from the blurb on my can of the stuff.

"Waxoyl contains no harmful or toxic acids. It consists of fine wax particles 
suspended in a thick viscous fluid saturated with a very powerful rust killer 
in the form of millions of microscopically electrically charged "Tadpole" 
molecules which displace water and oxygen from pores in the rust. The water 
repellant head polarises onto metal and rust.
Waxoyl remains active indefinitely after application .... If the film is 
scratched, millions of molecules remain in the film ready to flow onto the 
damaged area. .... Tests have shown no reduction in performance after seven 
years."

This seems to be in conflict with comments from various posters in recent days.

BTW, the reason why shipping may be a problem is that Waxoyl contains 
inflammable white spirit as a solvent, and has a Flashpoint of 43 deg C. 
Aircraft pilots don't seem to like that sort of thing in the hold.

Of course, this means Waxoyl can be removed completely, if necessary, with 
white spirit.

IMHO, the thick black stuff is the worst thing you can put on a chassis. Any 
peeling of the coating will let water in, when rust will take hold rapidly and 
unseen. I have bitter experience of that with an Austin Healey. You cannot 
reliably coat the inside of a chassis with a thick material, whereas Waxoyl can 
be sprayed in, warm, when it will creep over all the surfaces. It cannot suffer 
mechanical damage inside. The exterior can be primed, painted, and regularly 
and carefully hosed clean, especially between the top of the chassis and the 
floors.
Or you can be smug, like me, and have a galvanised chassis.:-) Then you can sit 
back and watch everything else try to corrode.:-( 

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date:     Tue, 19 Mar 96 9:23:56 EST (1423Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Three to Five Door Conversion

To All:

I had a question last night from a prospective
Rover owner that I have no idea how to answer.

The question is:  Can a three door 109 be converted
to a five door, now that door posts, etc. are
available as weld in replacements.  If so, whats
involved with the frame, rear tub, etc.  Finally,
is it worth it financially seeing that more three
doors are available than fives and at a significantly
lower costs (at least here in the States).

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Larry Smith
'72 SWB Petrol - Grover
Chester, VA
smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 17:47:28 +0100
From: philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be (philippe)
Subject: Lightweight

Hi Ben,
about the lightweight:
The headlights were indeed moved to the wings and it has a all synchro 
gearbox but it does not have a revised dash of the normal SIII. It's a metal 
dash and centrally located instruments. Only the button of the wipper is 
near the steering wheel, together with a button for Infra-Red light and a 
strange big button for the radio (if he's fitted for a military radio). On 
my vehicle they don't work anymore to make it legal driving in Belgium. The 
battery's (two if fitted for radio = 24 V) are located inbetween the seats. 
I don't know if that is different from a SII (I don't think so). 

Philippe C.
'81 Lightweight (ffr)
Ghent, Belgium

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 11:04:48 GMT -0600
Subject: LR for sale

Found this in a local paper:

LANDROVER SERIES IIA 1962
4 wd, hardtop, 111K, driven daily, lots of 
new parts, $8000. 414-728-4209 

It's been in for a couple of weeks. I know no more than the above 
about it. 414 is east of Madison in WI

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 09:26:39 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@mail.comox.island.net>
Subject: Re: erratic 2 1/4

Hello all,

Thanks for the suggestions regarding my 2 1/4's tempermental personality.

Alan Richer suggested fuel supply (pump) might be the problem. I'm 
reasonably certain the fuel is getting to the carb. I've replaced the 
filter (and the fuel line itself!) and checked the operation of the 
pump temporarily replacing it with an electric to be doubly sure.

TeriAnn suggested the problem might be electrical. I've checked and 
everything seems fine but... I'm replacing the consumable ignition pieces 
 anyway and calling it maintenance. BTW does anyone know if heavy wire, 
battery cable or welding cable, can be used in place of spark plug wires 
and if so what ends are available and how do they fasten. No radio in my 
boneshaker.

I replaced some vacuum line and caps yesterday as well. I'm hoping that 
the problem will be easier to pinpoint if everything else is up to snuff.

Again thanks for the suggestions. Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 12:16:03 PST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Drool Factory (Series)

 Hot damn!!

I just got three (yes three!) packages of Rover parts in one day! I'm gathering 
up as much as I can for the impending frame over... hmm... goodies, 
goodies,goodies! Ok, here's the list, for all you who aren't already drooling.
Both Master cylinders, slave cylinder, wheel cylinder, brake lines (all except 
the 2 that Guy replaced, Thanks Guy!) engine/trans mounts, bulkhead bolts, front
shocks, Old Man Emu poly bushes (Neat yellow color), bump stops, and uh...'88 
Camel Trophy video.:) That's the one with 110's. Of course, I can't start work 
until I finish another project, which is way past due...so now all I get to do 
is play with the new brake parts and watch the Camel Trophy. Not a bad haul 
though for the low low price of $675 US. All that's left  to get (haha) now is 
the clutch, spring shackles, flex hoses, splash guards, and U bolts, and maybe 
even a rear wiring harness, although that may have to wait until inspection time
(that's the only time the lights have to work, right...right?) Oh yeah, and lots
o' paint for the frame. I'm thinking about using Eastwood's Coroless with 
Chassis Black on top, or Black Hammerite. Any ideas?

Dave "Gee, I kinda like this NEW parts thing" B.

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 13:01:18 -0500
Subject: Replacement shocks

All;   A while back someone had posted a listing of  the Manufacturer and
corresponding part numbers for L-R shocks, both Standard and HD.  I can not
find this info and would appreciate having it again.
If someone would be so kind as to pass it along I would be grateful.
Thanks
Steve Bradke

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 10:44:56 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: "White spirit"

On Tue, 19 Mar 1996, David Olley at New Concept wrote:

> BTW, the reason why shipping may be a problem is that Waxoyl contains 
> inflammable white spirit as a solvent, and has a Flashpoint of 43 deg C. 

Since I am a person who is accustomed to seeing bonnets on women's heads, 
wings on birds, hoods covering engine bays, and boots on people's feet,
could you (or others) provide a translation for "white spirit" that I 
might understand?
The reason I ask is that I *might* have to 'dilute' my Waxoyl a little, 
since it may not get warm enough in Seattle this summer for it to flow well.

Best wishes,
David Rosenbaum

I'm not totally illiterate - "black spirit" is Guinness, right?

------------------------------

From: ChrisF6724@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 14:04:32 -0500
Subject: RE: NH Spring Safari

I was wondering if you follow the Tread Lightly program?  Chainsaws and axes
don't meet this criteria....  I assume you're going to go out on government
land (do what you want on private land).  Basically, the Tread Lightly
program is the idea that you leave no sign that you where ever there.  The
reason behind this is that there are alot of "tree-huggers" & politicans out
there who would very much like to ban all off-road activities (there are also
alot of clubs trying to oppose closures...).  Alot of trails have already
been closed thoughout the nation (two of my favorites were shut down last
year) because of the damage done by careless off-roaders...  If you tear up
the land, they will take that right away from all of us and future off-road
driving will be done on like it is in Japan, on a private resort where you
will have too pay membership fees...  None of us want that, do we?  Do your
part and clean-up after yourselves... What would you do with a chainsaw
off-road anyway? I sure hope you're not cutting down trees for a new trail,
or worse is cutting down obstacles placed to keep you off the trail (yes,
I've seen this done too!)

Sorry to rag, and I appologize if you do follow Tread Lightly principles.

If you want more info on the Tread Lightly program, I'd be happy to get you
their phone #

Chris Fisher   '73 Land Rover 88 Series III

------------------------------

Subject: Re: NH Spring Safari 
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 11:54:54 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <bulk.16443.19960319110334@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you wrote:

> I was wondering if you follow the Tread Lightly program?  Chainsaws and axes
> don't meet this criteria....  

	Most of the people I off-road with in forested areas carry a chainsaw 
and axes as standard equipment.  The reason is that while the trails are open 
for use, the park service doesn't have the time or funds to keep the trails 
clear all the time--epecially in the spring with all of the winter dead falls. 
So the LROs clear the trails as the go as a service to the park.  If the park 
service closes a trail, they should clearly lable it as such (in addition to 
blocking the trail because most yahoos don't seem to know how to read).   
Almost every closed trail that I've seen had either 2 foot diameter boulders 
blocking it or concreted posts blocking the way.  (execepting the California 
Desert Protection Act areas which have flimsy red posts, but the BLM (Bureau 
of Land Management) only got $1 to enforce the wilderness areas 
(Wilderness==no internal combustions engines) )

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: 19 Mar 96 15:02:35 EST
From: Jos Prinsen <100735.2330@compuserve.com>
Subject: Copy of: Brake repairs questions

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	Jos Prinsen, 100735,2330
TO:	INTERNET:lopezba@atnet.at, INTERNET:lopezba@atnet.at
DATE:	19-03-96 20:06

RE:	Copy of: Brake repairs questions

hello peter,

When i had to renew my brakelinings of my '71 S IIA  i started unfastening the
lower side of the shoes first. because of the lever-action of the shoe itselfe
you can pull of the lower side much easier than the topside which is nearer to
the spring.  after the lower side is pulled out  on both sides the spring
releases itselfe by slowly crossing the brake linings over eachother .  Just
don't forget to keep an eye on the brake cylinder and prevent the cups from
falling out by keeping the pressure on both brake linings about equal while
releasing them.

Jos

------------------------------

From: "Ferenc-Jan van Zijp" <f.j.a.vanzijp@lr.tudelft.nl>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 22:20:03 +0000
Subject: help

          / ######    ---- ..
         /###====/==---------&
        / /{##  ## #    #{    \#\
        # [**---## @-===##=---/###\&&---__
        # *^    /........|P......|..........,.
        # ,.../-###-\..&.&....../|../-###-\_#|
        \##= |##***##|   |    /  | |##***##|#P
            ] ##{ }##=^^*********** ##{ }##*
               *###*                 *###*
.-==============:::===================:::===========================-.
[ Ferenc-Jan van Zijp / Delft, Holland / f.j.a.vanzijp@lr.tudelft.nl ]
'-=======::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::=====================-'

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 16:47:25 -0500
Subject: Replacement shocks

A while back someone had posted a listing of the manufacturer and
corresponding part numbers for L-R shocks both standard and HD.  I can not
find this info and would appreciate having it again.
If that info could be passed along or reposted I would be grateful.
Thanks
Steve Bradke 

------------------------------

From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh.Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 09:45:18 +1200
Subject: Fuel gauge

Any ideas what the resistance of a IIA fuel gauge should be?
I think it's the +ve earth gauge reversed as part of a -ve
earth conversion done long ago.

I'm getting a short through the fuel gauge circuit.  The sender
resistance checked out ok (7 to 90 ohms IIRC).  The gauge resistance
is very low and I suspect it should be quite high but don't know
actual figures.
-- 
Hugh Grierson   hugh_grierson@trimble.co.nz  

------------------------------

Date: 19 Mar 96 17:26:09 EST
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: U bolts.

There are three screw thread variants used on the Land rover U bolts, viz 7/16 "
British Standard Fine ( BSF ) ,7/16" Unified National Fine ( UNF ) and the later
12 mm  Metric thread
 There is no difference, as standard, between the front and rear nuts, the
differences are only in the  length of the bolt
Ser 3 UNF nuts part number 251323
          Metric nuts, part number GHF 234
 These are likely to be a lot cheaper at your neighbourhood fastener store than
through a parts outlet, just ask for  'self locking nuts, hi grade ' with the
appropriate thread. Our colonial cousins will have difficulty  with the BSF.
 The ser 2 used the BSF thread and locking plates.

Hope this clarifies the situation.

 Regards  Bill Leacock    Limey in exile..  

------------------------------

Date: 19 Mar 96 17:26:11 EST
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: L/W and brakes

IMI market a copper based brake pipe, gauranteed for the life of the vehicle, it
is called Kunifer 10, very good stuff, needs to be properly clipped in position.

 Trevor : , Tungum,  a brass alloy tube ( still has copper )  also needs to be
properly clipped in place.
 

 Ben writes re ser 3 lightweight, Differences from ser 2 ?
 Basic differences are:-   revised windshield mounting, 
 the turn indicator and starter key are mounted on the steering column,
 dual circuit brakes,
  most had reinforced front axle,
 The instrument panel, still central,
 the light switch does not have the key hole.
 The light lenses changed on the later models but these can be interchanged on
the same screw base.
 The windshield wiper motor cover beacame a plastic moulding instaed of the
sheet metal type.
 And the obvious  synchro gearbox, gear lever  and revised clutch operating
system from the ser 3 standard.

   Regards   Bill  Leacock   Limey in exile

------------------------------

Subject: Re: L/W and brakes 
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 15:01:43 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

Bill Leacock wrote:

>  Ben writes re ser 3 lightweight, Differences from ser 2 ?
>  Basic differences are:-   revised windshield mounting, 

	Thanks.  You look at the photos and you miss the obvious....

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 19:30:12 -0500
From: cmw@tiac.net (Christopher Weinbeck)
Subject: Checking that crank/cheese please!

Thanks to Al, Bill, Hugh, John and TeriAnn.

Thanks for your generous offer, TeriAnn -maybe cheesy trim isn't so bad
after all. ;-)

I will be double checking the linkage.  It didn't look to have much play,
but it was late when last I was looking and I doubt I was properly
considering the tiny amount of travel involved when making my guestimations.

Thank goodness that the weather is now moving toward warmer!  I can't
imagine diving into this as the winter doldrums were coming on instead of
going out.

Anybody have a lead on a bulkhead for a 2.6?  It's looking increasingly like
I'm going to be grinding and welding my way through the weekends.

What was that stuff you all seem to drink to keep your spirits up??
(my girfriend said "What have you been eating?" Huh?, nothing. "You smell
like a light fruity wine." Oh! That's primer. :-)

Chris
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886            
  |___\_|_]__]  '69 109" RHDwOD 2.6 Dormobile       
    (o)    (o)    -At this scale you can't see the holes!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 16:11:57 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: toy swap?

> I was at a toy show on the weekend and I picked up a military green 
> Husky Forward control ser2  with the white star on the roof. 

> Is anyone interest in a swap?

If you haven't found a new home for it, I'll trade you two of the #12 
repros for it.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                       "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                             that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California                  http://www.crl.com/~sinasohn/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 22:00:01 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: erratic 2 1/4

Greg asks...

> ........... BTW does anyone know if heavy wire, 
>battery cable or welding cable, can be used in place of spark plug wires 
>and if so what ends are available and how do they fasten. ............
-

Battey cable? Welding Cable? You figure on arc welding or just providing
spark??  :)

You can get copper core spark plug wires. Try a well stocked auto supply
shop or better yet, a speed shop. They will or should be able to provide you
with the necessary fittings as well.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 19:44:27 -0800
Subject: Re: rust treatments

----------------------------- Begin Original Text -------------------------

As to shrinkage and cracking of 
Waxoyl, I am surprised to hear this. 
----------------------------- End Original Text -----------------------------

David 

Near as i can tell the shrinkage occurs as the spirits evaporate.  Once the
stuff is dried its as you say.  When i sprayed the inside of the dog legs
behind the door on my TR3 I noticed cracking where it was deeper.  A respray
into the cracks cured the problem.  My TR3 has a lot of Waxol in enclosed
spaces.  I triple coated the insides of the outer under door sill.  After the
amount of work I've put on the Triumph, I NEVER want to rebuild a car from
junk to new again.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 20:01:01 -0800
Subject: Re: erratic 2 1/4

----------------------------- Begin Original Text -------------------------

 BTW does anyone know if heavy wire, 
battery cable or welding cable, can be used in place of spark plug wires 
and if so what ends are available and how do they fasten. No radio in my 
boneshaker.

----------------------------- End Original Text -----------------------------

Wire insulation is rated for certain voltages.  Most low voltage wire is
rated for 600V which is far lower than what the coil generates.  Just about
all the national safety agencys worldwide have standards for insulation and
specify that the maximum rating of the insulation be printed on the wire.  I
think Spark plug wire if sold on a spool is labeled ether as spark plug wire
or with the insulation type.  last time  I look Hypalon insulation was the
best available for copper core spark plug wires.

Saying all that... I have just installed my first set of genuine LR spark
plug wires and think they are by far the best I have seen for a Land Rover.
 They are a bit pricy.  Keep  your old center wire if you have a IIA & order
the cheaper series III kit.  The only difference is the length of the center
wire and the price.

TeriAnn

I just cured a hard to identify idle problem in mine buy removing the old
fuel filter, and pumping the fuel pump 3 times to clear any crud in the fuel
line then installing a new filter.  I had a many year crud build up in the
fuel line.

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 20:10:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge

----------------------------- Begin Original Text -----------------------

Any ideas what the resistance of a IIA fuel gauge should be?
I think it's the +ve earth gauge reversed as part of a -ve
earth conversion done long ago.

----------------------------- End Original Text ---------------------------

The fuel guage is a thermal guage, meaning the current heats a metal strip
and turns the pointer.  This type a guage doesn't care about voltage
polarity.  I don't have a guage handy to measure the resistance of (I'm using
MGB guages), but i would imagine that the resistance would be low to get a
high enough current flow to heat the metal strip.

Where people generally get into trouble is using a positive earth guage with
a neg. earth sender unit form a late series IIA or series III.

What exactly are your symptoms?

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 23:27:12 -0500
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: RE: NH Spring Safari

At 02:04 PM 3/19/96 -0500, you wrote:
>I was wondering if you follow the Tread Lightly program?  Chainsaws and axes
>don't meet this criteria....  I assume you're going to go out on government
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 28 lines)]
>If you want more info on the Tread Lightly program, I'd be happy to get you
>their phone #
>Chris Fisher   '73 Land Rover 88 Series III
Here in New Hampshire there are many public roads which towns have simply
stopped to maintain.  In the road ratings they are called Class VI highways.
They are public ways but since the town no longer maintains them it is up to
the property owners along these roads and the users of the roads to do so.
Which is what we did when we removed fallen trees and repaired a bridge.

Why are the roads no longer maintained?  Many cases they are not needed any
more.  One example I know is the Town of Washington, New Hampshire (1st to
be named after George, BTW).  Its current population is about 650.  100
years ago the population was over 3000.  More roads then they need now.

Class VI roads are also a problem for a town from the planning and zoning
point of view.  Here we do not readily permit building on property located
on a Class VI road.  Too much liability exposure and when the call comes in
the ambulance will probably get stuck or worse trying to get to that house
(should consider a D130 ambulance).  Then the land owners will want the town
to upgrade the road and start maintaining it!

So technically and legally, we were not "off road".

BTW in New Hampshire, most roads run along a right-of-way over the boundary
between two properties, meaning we actually own the land under half the
street in front of our property.

Jeff Kessler (Planning Board member)
1988 Range Rover
Newport New Hampshire USA  603-863-7883

------------------------------

From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh.Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 17:00:31 +1200
Subject: Re: Fuel gauge

> The fuel guage is a thermal guage, meaning the current heats a metal strip
> and turns the pointer.  This type a guage doesn't care about voltage
> polarity.

There must be two types.  This one rises more quickly than a thermal 
one could.  Is that the later IIA/III model?  hmm, but there's no voltage
stabiliser in the circuit.

> What exactly are your symptoms?

Blowing the fuse only when the fuel gauge is connected. The wiring from gauge
to sender checked out ok, but I'm going to double check it tonight.
-- 
Hugh Grierson   hugh_grierson@trimble.co.nz  

------------------------------

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Subject: What's wrong?
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 23:21:19 PST

I haven't received the digest for several weeks now.
Can someone tell me what's wrong?

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Thomas Cooper <q9620149@helios.usq.edu.au>
Subject: Cargo barriers for SIIa
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 18:27:59 EST

Does anyone out there know where I can get hold of a cargo barrier
that would fit my SIIa 'Safari' station-wagon ( preferably in Australia )?
Getting whacked on the back of the head by camping gear is not fun anymore.

Tom Cooper

------------------------------

Subject: Series 2 FC Toy
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 23:38:44 -0500

Forawrd control Husky toy spoken for .....

Robin

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 09:06:40 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Drool Factory (Series)

o' paint for the frame. I'm thinking about using Eastwood's Coroless with
>Chassis Black on top, or Black Hammerite. Any ideas?

Dave,
Hammerite is waterproof *only*.Its not anything else proof,so to speak,ie
petrol,oil etc.As a mate of mine found out,when he painted the petrol tank
on his rebuild of a 1912 Abbott Detroit (Original American,and RH drive!).
The tank is external,behind the two bucket seats,and had to be totally
stripped and repainted in summat fuel and oil proof.
Just thought you'd like to know......
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 09:13:15 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: "White spirit"

could you (or others) provide a translation for "white spirit" that I
might understand?
The reason I ask is that I *might* have to 'dilute' my Waxoyl a little,
since it may not get warm enough in Seattle this summer for it to flow well.

Dunno about translation,but its the stuff you use to thin household
paint with.Also known as "Turps(turpentine)Substitute" over here.
Andy Woodward reckons diesel works as well.Dont you Andy?Never tried
it myself though.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 10:38:53 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: rust treatments

TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com wrote:
> Near as i can tell the shrinkage occurs as the spirits evaporate.  

Thanks TeriAnn

You have to try it to know!

I envy you your TR3. There are so few of this marque left in the UK 
because they mostly rusted away years ago.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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