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1 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D27Copyright Reprinted from NYTimes
2 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D17"Copper" brake lines
3 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob15Re[2]: Zen and survival
4 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob31Serious series questions / questionable eating habits
5 "T.Stevenson" [gbfv08@ud26Brake repairs questions
6 Ian Robinson [ian@fourx425Re: Brake repairs questions
7 Harincar.2@mooregs.com (90Frame Replacement Log, Week 10
8 "Mark Talbot" [Land_Rove60NH Spring safari ... or mud run, depending on the weather.
9 Nathan Dunsmore [dunsmo125Re: Serious series questions / questionable eating habits
10 Michael & Krista Kirk [m39Re: WAIT A MINUTE
11 bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bo33diesel flywheel
12 "Lee Zeltzer" [lzeltzer@27Trip experience
13 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (48Parts matching was Re: Frame Replacement
14 TWakeman/Apple@eworld.co24Re: WAIT A MINUTE
15 Greg Moore [gmoore@mail.16erratic 2 1/4
16 RMILLER@Middlebury.edu (24Re: Repainting...or not!
17 TWakeman/Apple@eworld.co19Re: erratic 2 1/4
18 Fred Ellsworth [fellswor38Series Engine Trouble?
19 "S. Vels" [svels@mail-se22 Re: Repainting...or not!
20 "Gerald" [g@ix.netcom.co15Hand winch vs. come-along
21 Benjamin Allan Smith [be23[not specified]
22 lopezba@atnet.at 39Re: Removing transfer box
23 lopezba@atnet.at 25Re: Overdrive
24 73363.427@compuserve.com58Re: Repainting...or not!
25 Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti20Wnated: M.Cylinder brackets
26 James Kirkpatrick - INEN19Re: Getting home
27 Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite.20U-bolts etc
28 cmw@tiac.net (Christophe63New owner adventures!
29 James Carley [carley@man27Re: Series III Gearbox problems
30 Greg Moore [gmoore@mail.16Re: Series Engine Trouble?
31 TWakeman/Apple@eworld.co25Re: U-bolts etc
32 TWakeman/Apple@eworld.co35Re: New owner adventures!
33 Wdcockey@aol.com 22Re: WAIT A Minute how about kit cars(LR)
34 "Hugh Grierson" [Hugh.Gr19Re: New owner adventures!
35 rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca27[not specified]
36 IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILL15Loose linkage sinks ships..or is that...
37 Sekerere@aol.com 191963 Series IIA 88" for sale
38 jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben21superchargers and coil conversion
39 walker@inreach.inreach.c13club information ?
40 Benjamin Allan Smith [be32[not specified]
41 Michael Carradine [cs@cr47Re: Club information?
42 Roy Wassili [wassili@AMC19Re: corrosion (aluminium)
43 Benjamin Allan Smith [be21[not specified]
44 azw@aber.ac.uk 14Re: rust treatments
45 M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mik17Hello! (from Cape Town)
46 M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mik24Hello! (from Cape Town)


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From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Copyright Reprinted from NYTimes
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 07:50:00 EST

The following, though no LR content, may interest those who havve been 
discussing copyright. It was from Mondays TimesFax

PARIS  Officially, Le Grand Secret   remains a literary state secret, a 
physician s tortured disclosure of the elaborate deception to hide the 
failing health of Francois Mitterrand. The former French President s 
griev-ing family scorned the book and a French judge banned it for privacy 
vi-olations, but these state secrets are the world s to share with a few 
com-puter keystrokes to websites with the complete text, graphics and a 
gloomy image of Mr. Mitterrand, his mouth muffled by tape. My first reaction 
when it happened was well-done, well-played,   said Olivier Orban, the 
director of Plon Publishing, the book s publisher. But then I realized the 
danger on the Internet for all books in the future. We can t protect the 
author and the copy-right. I think we have no means to fight against it.   
The same cold chill of anxiety has stricken publishers in the United States 
who contend copyright infringement on the Internet is the most critical 
threat facing the industry. Worried publishing executives are pressing for 
new legislation that will tighten copyright restrictions on the Internet and 
impose penalties for vio-lations of up to $500,000 fines and five-year jail 
sentences. Later this month, the Senate Judi-ciary committee will hold a 
hearing on the proposed legislation. By DOREEN CARVAJAL

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From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: "Copper" brake lines
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 08:07:00 EST

As Al Richer says the "copper" lines are a special alloy,trade name is 
Tungum, and in brake line sizes it's good for about 25000psi, a bit more 
than we'll ever need even for a panic stop with both feet. It is used for 
hydraulic lines on aircraft with special shrink fittings. Regular copper 
such as used for air conditioning and pneumatic applications is not suitable 
for brake lines as it fatigues readily under the vibration and pressure 
changes it encounters as a brake line. Similarly "common or garden" variety 
Stainless steel tube is not suitable for brakes for similar reasons. In 
cases where safety is concerned be sure you are using the right stuff. If in 
doubt stick with good old Bundy tube it lasts for years if properly 
installed and cared for.

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 08:13:18 PST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Zen and survival

If every second counted, I would siphon the fuel out of the others & bid them
a fond goodby & get out of Dodge with a drippy wet camo painted 88.

PLEASE DO NOT TAKE THIS AS A FLAME ON DISCOVERIES OR RANGE ROVERS

TeriAnn

TeriAnn you paint a beautiful picture.

Dave "And I LIKE Rangies 'n Discos" B.

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 08:57:26 PST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Serious series questions / questionable eating habits

 Thanks to all who responded to my questions...
 I have since discovered what i think is the problem, a small puddle around th 
bottom lip of the rad. There never was enough to actually cause it to drip on 
the ground. I did notice a small drip coming off one of the tie rods. So I 
tasted it in order to determine if it was indeed antifreeze...No wonder pets 
like that stuff! MMM. Almost like an apertif for when you've finished your 90 
weight. So sooner or laer, probably later, I'll take one of my two questionable 
radiators over to a shop and have 'em look at it. I refuse to buy anything new 
if I can get away with it...one is known to have holes but looks pretty clean 
inside. The other is *said* to be *pretty good* but looks pretty caked inside. 
Anybody have any experienc getting rad's serviced/repaired? If it's pretty claen
inside then I'm assuming it'll be okay and not likely to be plugged.

BTW I now have a new question. 

There is a *funny* (or maybe not so funny) clicking sound when coasting to a 
stop in nuetral. It is only noticeable right before I stop and its possible to 
stop it by slightly moving the gearshift lever towards second. I recently 
tightened the mainshaft nut as per RN in a (ha ha) attempt to see if I could 
stop 1st popping out on the overrrun. Anybody find this interesting or have any 
insights? I'm suspecting some sort of alignment problem w/ the shift fork, maybe
bent?

Thanks Again.

Dave "Mmm, these pancakes are good. Heavy on the 30 weight, Ma!" B.

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 14:35:58 GMT
From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Brake repairs questions

>First question: How does one *really* remove the brake shoes? The springs on 
>them are so strong I could not get them off. Finally I used a wrench on the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>I damaged the edge of the brake lining, and I was afraid I might break the 
>brake shoe - there must be a better way?
 My brother made me a neat tool for removing & fitting brake shoes. It
consists of a flat 2.5 cm wide 5mm thick steel strip bent into a J-shape.
The short arm of the J has a slot cut into it; the longer one has a bar
welded on at 90 degrees. In use, the tool is hooked over the end of the
shoe, in the same plane, with the web of the shoe fitting the slot of the
tool. Plenty of leverage is available via the bar handle to overcome the
return springs. It also saves getting grease, blood etc on the new shoes
during fitting. 
-------------------------------------
Tom Stevenson  gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station
Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland

Tel 01475 530581
Fax 01475 530601
-------------------------------------

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:45:08 +0000
From: Ian Robinson <ian@fourx4.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Brake repairs questions

In message <314CA9B6.184A@tcp.co.uk>, David Olley at New Concept
<newconcept@tcp.co.uk> writes

>BTW, I had thought of removing the transfer box first to make removal of the 
>transmission easier, but the manual said I needed service tool no x335888998... 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>all the time is quite hard without assistance, and it might ease my task in 
>replacing the box this week.
Ask the guy who supplied you with the box !!! :-)

Seriously, yes you can. Remove the handbrake assbly, remove the top and
bottom plates, remove the intermediate shaft to release the intermediate
cluster, then you can get at the 6 nuts which hold the transfer to the
main box. The're much easier to handle then.

Regards, Ian
                FOREST LANDROVERS' 4 x 4 CENTRE
                Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK
                +44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132
                http://www.star.co.uk/forest

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From: Harincar.2@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:15:27 -0600
Subject: Frame Replacement Log, Week 10

A generally frustrating week.

I was trying to keep occupied while I wait for my parts from England.
They showed up on saturday afternoon. Still haven't been billed for
any shipping... ;-)

First, it was get the old bumper off. The was trickier than it sounds.
Three of the four bolts sheared in the middle when I twisted them. The
ends then wouldn't come out the bottom because of the slant in the
frame. Fortunatly (or not, depending on how look at it) both of the
front horns were so badly rusted that they broke off the rest of the
frame during this process (remember they had cracked when removing the
springs). Now I just had to deal with a bumper with horn remnents
attached. With a little help from the air chisel, I just ripped apart
what was left of the old horns until the bolts were free. Most of
what was left I just swept into a dust pan and threw away.

Frightning...

Next, it was remove the transmission brake linkage in preparation
of moving the tub and motor. This is rusted up pretty bad, but I think
its saveable. I dropped the rear drive shaft at the same time (it was
still connected at the gearbox end).

Once the linkage was off, I preceeded to free the rest of the tub,
except for the fuel filler. So now the tub is just resting on the
old chassis, ready to be lifted.

I also ran the rear wiring harness through the new frame, using the
tape measure trick someone posted not too long ago.

Before I pulled the wire through I stuck the air line into the hole
and blew a ton of junk out of the inside of the frame. Rodent homes,
sand, etc., hopefully getting some of the water trapping junk out.

Spent an evening puttering, sanding rust off parts, etc.

I got some parts from RN on Friday, one of which was a clutch
cylinder rebuild kit. This is where the frustration began. I brought
the cylinder in the house to clean it up and tear it down. The
bracket that holds the cylinders was pretty rusted up (if anyone
has a spare, let me know...). When I tried to loosen one of the
mounting bolts, the cylinder just cracked off at both bolt flanges.
Then another bit with a red cap in it cracked off. The cylinder
was just kind of crumbling in my hands. Hello? Rover's North? This
is Tim again, I'd like to place an order...

That was before I started working with the stuff from LR Supermarket.
The very first parts I checked out were new rear u-bolts, since I'm
going to be mounting the rear axle next.

I had a set of genuine lock nuts for these from RN (forgot to order
them with the bolts), but they wouldn't thread! None of the nuts
would thread on any of the bolts! So I went out and pulled a nut off
of one of the other non-genuine u-bolts I have on the front, and *that*
wouldn't thread either.

Grrrrr!

Is it possible that for some wierd reason a u-bolt from england would
have a different thread than a US bolt? Wouldn't you just make them to
LR spec? Good god! So now I'm trying to decide if I should try to get
some nuts that will fit or just screw it and get another set of u-bolts
(from someone here in the states). I really hope this isn't an oman
of things to come with this order... Something to keep in mind when
ordering overseas...

Leaving that for now, I still needed to drive 6 new bushings in the
rear springs & frame. Hah! The spring bushings won't even *start*, much
less go into the spring. Its like I didn't even pull the old bushing
out. The hole seems to be too small by just about the same amount as
the outer bushing sleeve. Sigh. I was able to drive the two frame
bushings in without too much trouble... So, just to save time and effort
at this point, I'm going to see if I can find a spring shop to press
the new bushings in.

Hopefully, progress will return again. Still hoping to pull the motor
on saturday.

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 15:32:59 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: NH Spring safari ... or mud run, depending on the weather. 

All, 

I have had over a dozen requests to run another NH Safari. After the great 
time most of us had this past Saturday, I thought why not. BTW we had 13 
vehicles show up, all models, yes even 5 plushies !!! Those that want the 
details can read the report posted yesterday. 

Spring will truly be here at the end of April, so I'm planning the next run 
for 

Saturday 27th April 1996. 

We will leave Keene NH at 10AM SHARP !!!!!! The meeting point will be the same 
place, Dunkin Donuts just off the intersection with Route 10 and Route 101. 
This will give everyone a good chance to get food, coffee etc. BEFORE we start 
off. 

Logistics. 

This time instead of snow it will probably be MUD. How much will depend on how 
much more snow we get, and how quickly the ground has thawed out. But come 
prepared for mud. 

Tools: 

Tow Ropes, CB's, Hi-lift jacks, Winches, come-a-longs. Chain saws or axes.  

Bring dry socks, and maybe another pair of boots.  Certainly bring a change of 
clothes.

Hotel accommodations are available at the Days Inn or the Best Western in 
Keene. If you want me to make reservations for you e-mail me. My wife is a 
travel agent in town ! or you can just call yourself. A night's stay is about 
$40-$50. 

We will tailgate lunch out in the woods, so pre-pack a lunch BEFORE  we start 
!!!     

We will stop in the evening for a Bar-B-Q at my house, bring your own beer 
etc. 

Those that may have Discoveries or Range Rovers that want to come, REMOVE your 
front spoilers. If we get mud, you will dig them into the ground and probably 
end up carry them home in the back !!! 

We will probably encounter water, how deep again will depend on the thaw. If 
you have a wading plug put it in. If you don't have a wading plug then order 
one. With all the mud the drain hole could get blocked. 

Interestingly, out of the all the request I had for this past weekends trip, 7 
owners were not on the Internet. So tell your friends. 

I look forward to another great day in the woods. 

MARK

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 10:21:21 -0500
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Re: Serious series questions / questionable eating habits

Bobeck, David R. wrote:
> Anybody have any experienc getting rad's serviced/repaired? If it's pretty claen
> inside then I'm assuming it'll be okay and not likely to be plugged.

> Dave "Mmm, these pancakes are good. Heavy on the 30 weight, Ma!" B.
> inside then I'm assuming it'll be okay and not likely to be plugged.

In my experience, if there isn't significant corrosion (not just the caked on sludge), 
either radiator can be repaired by a good shop.  The sludge can be easily cleaned out as 
long as it is not associated with significant rusting.  If the holes are due to 
generalized rusting and deterioration, repairing them will do little good since other 
spots will be nearly as bad.  If you go to a reputable (often times this means small 
local) shop, they should be able to tell you whether it is worthwhile to fix the hole.  
I found the radiator shop I use by talking with my trusted mechanic, but I know of a 
place off I95 just north of Baltimore that is good as well if you're interested.

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:22:16 -0500
From: Michael & Krista Kirk <michaelk@infi.net>
Subject: Re: WAIT A MINUTE

Theodore

Don't sugar coat it, tell us how you really feel. !!!!

I guess the point is "Buyer Beware".

However, in Sean's defense, I read the literature in his web page and it was 
obvious to me what his company was doing.  One the phone, he repeated disclosed 
this fact.  So ripping off consumer's is not a fair assesment of his company's 
practices.  If there is a market out there for modified Pre-1969 LR's, then Renewed 
traditions is just catering to that market.

They do sell unmodified vehicles, refurbished vehicles, and modified vehicles.  I 
guess a more accurate discription would be to say a "PERFECTLY LEGAL STAGE 1 V-8" 
based on a 1969 chassis.

Again,  misleading and fradulent they are not.  However the buyer should aways 
beware.

Michael
92 RR

Theodore S. wrote:
> No!  You are very wrong in what you stated and suggested in your message
> below.  First, the series III, which the Stage One V8 is based on, did not
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 48 lines)]
> E-mail ATLANTA67@AOL.COM
> WWW:   http://users.aol.com/atlanta67/renewed.htm

-- 
=============================================================  	 
Michael & Krista Kirk => "michaelk@infi.net"
Norfolk, Virginia
=============================================================

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Subject: diesel flywheel
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 08:21:10 -0800

David asked,
>I had a call from someone in Ontario who wanted a diesel flywheel. He 
>lost a lot of teeth on his.  I have a couple here.  Is there any 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>there are two markings, something like 16 deg. and 18 deg. and another 
>thing that says EP.  Does this sound like a regular flywheel?  It came 

Hi,
On Sunday David Place asked about the diesel flywheel,
While I have no experience on diesel either, I think it sounds like you may
be describing a S1 flywheel.
I have a 74 diesel flywheel (2 1/4) and it looks like the petrol but is
somewhat thicker and weighs 40 lbs,compared to 30 lbs for petrol.(That makes
it 1/3 heavier,,Or is the petrol 1/4 lighter??? :>)
The ring gear is thicker, and the teeth count out to be the same as petrol.
The studs you mention aren't there.Just the three alignment dowels.
It has the EP mark and 13-14 deg
I also have the 74 sealed type diesel starter and would like to sell it.

Bob Bernard

 __________________________________________________
|>>>>>>>>>>>  bobnsueb@maxinet.com   <<<<<<<<<<<<<<|
|Robert and Suzanne Bernard -  Paradise, California|  
|'69 88 SW Sherman, '60 88 P/U Stubby, '51 80 Nelly|
|__________________________________________________| 
>have the screw threads so I assume I have the right one.  On the side 

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:14:37 -0700
From: "Lee Zeltzer" <lzeltzer@isdnet.com>
Subject: Trip experience

Though I would throw in an off road experience in case anyone has the future 
opportunity. 

I spent Sunday with five other Defenders and a 4 Runner, running the 
Charouleau gap located on the North side of the Catalina mountains near 
Oracle Arizona. What made the trip eventful, other than watching me high 
centering my D90 in a river, with water! (Water in desert rivers is an event 
to be celebrated) was our tour guide.

Bill Burke of 4 Wheeling America made the trip down from Denver to lead the 
tour/class. As I learned, Bill was on the Camel trophy team in 1991 and it 
shows. As a novice, obvious from my river driving skills, I learned a lot and 
had a great time. If anyone has the opportunity to take a trip or class with 
Bill I recommend the experience. 
He has a web site http://www.wizard.comm/4wa.
-- 
Lee Zeltzer, Senior Consultant
Innovative System Design
100 N. Stone Ave. Suite 605
Tucson AZ 85701
(520)791-3323 X 21
http://www.isdnet.com

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 08:51:59 -0800
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Parts matching was Re: Frame Replacement 

You wrote: 

snip
>That was before I started working with the stuff from LR Supermarket.
>The very first parts I checked out were new rear u-bolts, since I'm
>going to be mounting the rear axle next.

 I had a set of genuine lock nuts for these from RN (forgot to order
 them with the bolts), but they wouldn't thread! None of the nuts
 would thread on any of the bolts! So I went out and pulled a nut off
 of one of the other non-genuine u-bolts I have on the front, and *that*
 wouldn't thread either.
 
 Grrrrr!
 
 Is it possible that for some wierd reason a u-bolt from england would
 have a different thread than a US bolt? Wouldn't you just make them to
 LR spec? Good god! So now I'm trying to decide if I should try to get
 some nuts that will fit or just screw it and get another set of u-bolts
 (from someone here in the states). I really hope this isn't an oman
 of things to come with this order... Something to keep in mind when
 ordering overseas...
 
snip
 Tim
  ---
I sympathize with the frustration.  I don't think its so much an overseas 
ordering issue as a general problem with parts suppliers.  I've had a total 
schedule delay of approximately 1.5 months (weekend count) due to assorted 
misfitting parts, in all cases from US suppliers.

It's entirely possible that the nuts from RN are the wrong nuts - it's happened 
to me on ball joints from other sources.

The nuts for the genuine U-bolts,  I BELIEVE (I could be wrong,) are BSF 
(9/16?).  This might be the issue.

This might be overly simplistic advice but I'd take the U-bolt to a hardware 
store and physically check the fit against UNF and metric nuts to make sure.

Cheers,

Jeremy

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From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:18:34 -0800
Subject: Re: WAIT A MINUTE

Theodore

Have you even bothered to read their web pages????  If you had I'm suprised
you would make those acusations.

I could find no evidence of them trying to rip customers off.

You buy the basic car and if you wish you can chose from a list of options,
one of which happens to be an early 3.5L V8, heavy duty radiator, a front
clip to house the new stuff up front, heavy duty suspension, and uprated
brake system.  I did not see them trying to pass this off as a genuine stage
1 Land Rover.

I would suggest that before you make a major flame like this you get your
facts straight.  It not only shows you off in a bad light but it gives a lot
of bad press to a comany who hasn't done anything wrong.

TeriAnn

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:32:00 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@mail.comox.island.net>
Subject: erratic 2 1/4

My 2 1/4 petrol doesn't seem to like cold, damp weather. It stalls at 
stop signs and backfires (exhaust) on decelleration. This behavior stays 
with it for 1/2 hr or more. However, if I drive for 5 min. and shut the 
monster off for 5 minutes or so she idles like a dream when restarted. I 
never use the choke (a pet peeve regarding raw fuel and cylinder 
lubrication) so it shouldn't be choke related. It's as if the idle 
mixture were way off but as I said if I shut it down (sometimes waiting 
for a long traffic light will suffice) and then restart it's problem 
cured. Any suggestions?

Thanks, Greg

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 13:26:06 +0000
From: RMILLER@Middlebury.edu (Raoul Miller)
Subject: Re: Repainting...or not!

>> I am interested in repainting my 73 ser III.  I live in the Pacific Northwest
>> USA and wonder how much I can expect to pay for a quality job.  Does anyone
>> have suggestions about finding a shop with experience and knowledge in
>> painting Land Rovers. I'm down to bare aluminum.

> Don't do it!  It won't rust and you can rub out your off-road-rashes with
> metal polish...  Just an idea.

There's an 88 station wagon (11a, I think) in Boulder Colorado which is
just polished aluminium - looks great.  I would have thought that over time
the shine would oxidise, though.  Does the bare surface need to be
continually polished like the family silver or is it fairly inert?
Cheers, Raoul

Raoul Miller
Dept. Of Geography
Middlebury College
Middlebury, VT 05753
(802)388-3711 X5210

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From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:33:09 -0800
Subject: Re: erratic 2 1/4

Greg,

If you engine has stalls, backfires & such when the weather is damp untill
the engine compartment gets warm. check your primary and secondary ignition
system. You may need a new set of plug wires.  Your small primary wire from
the coil to the distributer may need replacing.  You may just need to wipe
clean contaminates off the electrical connections on the coil & distributer.
 Maybe youy have some moisture inside the cap?

My old MGBGT didn't want to start in cool damp mornings.  Cleaning up the low
voltage connections curred the problem.

TeriAnn

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 14:57:20 -0500
From: Fred Ellsworth <fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com>
Subject: Series Engine Trouble?

Hi all,
I've got a question about an engine problem that's had me stumped since we
bought our '71 IIA 88" a couple years ago.  Going on the theory that many
minds are better than one I thought I'd solicit suggestions from the
collective wisdom...

Here's the problem:
Occassionally when letting up on the accelerator after traveling at
constant highway speeds the engine "coughs" or misses, and the whole
vehicle jerks- then it continues as if nothing happened.  Its feels almost
as if a cylander fires out of order or something...

In the past year I've put in a new Luminition electronic ignition, a new
carburator, new plugs, cap, rotor & ignition wires, & a high output Lucas
ignition coil ($4 @ a wreckers- what the heck).  Although none of this was
done specifically to correct this problem it hasn't helped either.  In
fact, it seems to be happening more often than it did in the past.

I'm not too worried because the engine seems to run fine at all other
times, compression is strong, etc., but it's a little disconcerting
(especially for passengers who have been bombarded by stories of Rover
superiority) and I can't help thinking that there is some unecessary stress
being put on various engine components when this occurs.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks,
Fred
'71 IIA 88"
Boston, MA

PS  Al Richer, has your e-mail address changed or are you having a problem
with your mailer?  Several messages I've sent you in the past three weeks
have been bounced back.

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From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date:          Mon, 18 Mar 1996 20:55:41 +0001
Subject:       Re: Repainting...or not!

> just polished aluminium - looks great.  I would have thought that over time
> the shine would oxidise, though.  Does the bare surface need to be
> continually polished like the family silver or is it fairly inert?
> Cheers, Raoul
 
> Raoul Miller
 
I'm afraid you will need to polish regularly. Ever seen a 
Lotus 7?. Has a matte surface except when on display for 
sale. Salt will help make the surface more grey and rough.

A product called Alu-Magic was mentioned in a classic car
magazine. Don't know anything about it though.

rgds
sv/aurens

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From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 15:27:38 +0100
Subject: Hand winch vs. come-along

What is the difference, if any, between a hand oeprated winch and a 
come along? Where is one better than the other?

TIA

--
Gerald
Massachusetts, U.S.
g@ix.netcom.com

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Subject: Overdrives
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 12:46:44 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

	Someone mentioned an article on the Fairey Overdrive in LRO.  After
searching though my collection, I found it.

Land Rover Owener International
December 1995, pp 158-160

	It's part two of a 2 part series and describes a full teardown
with pictures.  I'd say the article is well worth the cover price if you don't 
normally get the magazine.

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entries
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:43:40 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Removing transfer box

David - thanks for the tip:

>My technique is to use a big screwdriver as a lever to pull each shoe off the 
>piston and forward in front of the piston. Then both springs will be 
contracted 
>enough to make removal simple. You have discovered the damage that can 
occur to 
>the linings by using a wrench!:-(  So you won't do that again.:-)

I tried the screwdriver approach, but could not find a fulcrum for it. 
Anyway, I will have ample opportunity to test various methods because all 
the old bleeding screws are seized and I will exchange all the wheel 
cylinders affected.
 
>BTW, I had thought of removing the transfer box first to make removal of the 
>transmission easier, but the manual said I needed service tool no 
x335888998... 
>(or similar) to extract the main shaft, which is retained with a 'c' clamp. 
Can 
>anyone tell me: is this true, or will it come out with simple force? Is any 
real 
>difficulty encountered in removing the transfer box? Moving the whole unit 
around 
>all the time is quite hard without assistance, and it might ease my task in 
>replacing the box this week.

LROI had an article with pictures about overhauling an SIIA/SIII 
transmission in January 96, and they left the transfer box on the 
transmission when they removed the transmission. If its any help and if you 
can't lay your hands on the magazine, I could fax you the pages, although 
the pictures are better in colour, of course. Let me know.
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:43:56 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Overdrive

Ben -
>	Which issue?  (I don't recall seeing that article and I have most of
>the LROI since 1992)

Sorry not to have mentioned it. The articles were in LROI June 95 page 106, 
LROI November 95 page 80 and LROI December 95 page 158. There was also 
something about the nut on the main shaft in June 95 page 49. I hope the 
issues that go to the States are the same as the ones we get in Europe.

>	It's is a very odd feeling to be driving at ~45 mph, hit the clutch,
>reach for the OD lever and find that it isn't there.
>Ben

Must be kind of like I feel whem I am in a hired car in the UK or India or 
Southern Africa - my hand tries to find the gear lever and all it gets is 
the crank for the window...
Regards
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

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From: 73363.427@compuserve.com
Date: 18 Mar 96 16:13:12 EST
Subject: Re: Repainting...or not!

>>> I am interested in repainting my 73 ser III.  I live in the Pacific
Northwest
>> USA and wonder how much I can expect to pay for a quality job.  Does anyone
      [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
> Don't do it!  It won't rust and you can rub out your off-road-rashes with
> metal polish...  Just an idea.

There's an 88 station wagon (11a, I think) in Boulder Colorado which is
just polished aluminium - looks great.  I would have thought that over time
the shine would oxidise, though.  Does the bare surface need to be
continually polished like the family silver or is it fairly inert?
Cheers, Raoul <<

My SerIII has not had any paint on it for over 6 years. I have only had it 5
(Luckily I didn't have to do the stripping). But it seems that once the layer of
oxidation forms, it does not get any worse. I have not seen any signs of
deteriation at all. I received some rather rough "Pinstriping" a few weeks ago,
and it was all removed with a rather coarse scrubbing pad. Anything worse could
be removed with steel wool or similar. I purchase a pickup cab, several months
ago, and it was very easy to strip the remaining paint off and have it match the
rest of the vehicle.

I have a small section that was patched with bondo by a PO, with a little
aluminum paint it is barely noticeable. Also the aluminum paint was used on the
breakfast and firewall.

I used a little Mother's Mag Wheel Polish, on the rear of the vehicle when I had
the safari top on. It looked like a airstream trailer, and also cut back on
people tailgating at night<g>. I might have tried the whole vehicle, but the
bondo section would have stood out. Besides it would have been to BRIGHT. As it
is now it is a sort of dull gray, much like portions of most of these vehicles
that have not been repainted. 

I like not having to worry about scratching the paint, and am not planning on
painting the vehicle until I have to replace the firewall, which doesn't appear
to needed any time soon.

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88  Color:N/A
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 18-Mar-1996

------------------------------
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From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 16:06:15 -0600
Subject: Wnated: M.Cylinder brackets

This was kind of buried in my weekly log...

Since my mud sheilds were destroyed, my master cylinder brackets took a   
beating and are rusted pretty bad. If anyone has spares from a parts   
vehicle, specifically the clutch but maybe both, and is willing to sell   
(or donate ;-)  ), please let me know.

Thanks,

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW  

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 17:16:06 -0500 (EST)
From: James Kirkpatrick - INEN/F94 <jkirkpat@acs.ryerson.ca>
Subject: Re: Getting home

Ian,

I drove through Stratford yesterday around 11 am, I was looking out but 
didn't see you.  Perhaps next time.

As far a moving a rover I towed a 1958 Series II with no wheels or axels 
on a U Haul car transporter from London to New Market.  The trailer has 
its own hyraulic brakes and did not seem to be too much of a burden on my 
IIA.

Give me a call I'll be in most nights this week.

Jay Kirkpatrick
(416) 599-2402

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From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au>
Subject: U-bolts etc
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 09:25:43 +1030 (CDT)

Tim and Jeremy have had problems with U-bolt nuts.

Off the top of my head (its safe to do this here but not on RRO :-(
there are at least two, possibly three variants of u-bolts on series IIA 
and III's.  I cant remember the details, I think the early ones were BSF 
and the later UNC, salisbury ones are different again ISTR.  Its probably 
in a manual somewhere.  I 'spose the solution is to order nuts and bolts 
at the same time...

cheers

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 19:07:08 -0500
From: cmw@tiac.net (Christopher Weinbeck)
Subject: New owner adventures!

Hello all!

I have been trying to get posession of a Land Rover for *two years*, and one
was finally delivered Tuesday the 12th. :-) It didn't take more than a quick
look to see that my fun has only just begun. :-O

It's a '69 109" 2.6 RHDwOD Dormobile conversion.  The chassis looks pretty
decent, it runs, has a new exhaust system, a new horn, good brakes and lots
of neat holes in the bulkhead.  Did I mention all the great SPOTs??  Like
some cheesy trim panels and carpet set (of course the carpet is _really_
well glued down) and really, really thickly applied forrest green paint
-everywhere.  The badge on the grill is even upside-down.

Oh, the engine has a really good rap and the clutch is way down at the
bottom of the pedal and it slips.

But I had a great time rippin' around the parking lot with my girlfriend :-)

First project:  try bleeding the clutch slave cylinder.  There's the access
hole -but this is RHD so the pedals prevent my carefull use of a wrench
-never mind getting my head close enough for a look!
   Remove tunnel cover to remove bulkhead cowling,
   Oops, remove carpet to remove tunnel cover to remove bulkhead cowling,
   Go buy impact driver to remove screws to remove tunnel cover.
   Ok, now remove Smith's heater to remove bulkhead cowling to bleed slave
cylinder.
   Remove bonnet prop-rod's rusty cotter pin and spring to flip back bonnet
to      remove hoses to remove Smith's heater to remove bulkhead cowling to...

AArgh!  It's all apart and the bleed screw is siezed and I'm pretty sure
I'll break it. ("Yes, honey I did notice that the bulkhead cowling is
*really* corroded, thank you.")

Hillarious (did I mention cold?)antics in my driveway, let me tell you!

I put my earplugs in so I wouldn't notice my talking to myself.

But the bleed screw did come free, air did bleed out and my clutch did
improve (some).  Of course the rip around the neighborhood reminded me of
that nice rapping sound at medium high revs.

High points -Saturday afternoon a neighbor woman and son come up and she
says it's gorgeous.  Sunday night the female clerk at the book store looks
at the LRW I'm buying and starts gushing about how she used to own two, and
they're great, and don't ever get rid of it.  -Pulling it up on the giant
pill of snow at the end of my driveway wasn't bad either :-)

Any suggestions on the clutch?  (other than the obvious, thanks)
The engine?                     (double ditto! -I'm talking parts sources) 

Chris
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 Christopher Weinbeck       Office Logic, Inc.      V (508) 392-0288
   _______                  7 Littleton Road        F (508) 692-0897   
  |__][_[_\__               Westford, MA 01886            
  |___\_|_]__]          
    (o)    (o)  -Artist's conception of, as yet, undeliverd Rover.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 10:27:09 EST
From: James Carley <carley@manly.civeng.unsw.EDU.AU>
Subject: Re: Series III Gearbox problems

Alan wrote

>Over the last week or so, first gear has become harder and harder to select
>when at rest, buts its ok when changing down, on the move from 2nd to 1st.

>2nd gear has also started to "crunch" since the problem with 1st gear started.

My guess is a clutch problem. Clutch is not fully disengaging and/or
pilot bearing/bush in the flywheel is dragging.  This can also be from the
clutch driven plate sticking on the transmission shaft splines.  The clutch
master and slave cylinders are a common problem and easily replaced.

I had a similar problem in a Toyota Hilux 4WD I bought many years ago,
before I could afford a LR 110.  I got it cheap 'cause of this problem
and thought I was up for a new gearbox, but the problem was solved
by a new clutch and pilot bearing.  I used to have to switch the motor off
to get it in 1st if I'd already stopped.

James Carley
Water Research Laboratory
University of New South Wales
Sydney, Australia

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 14:08:18 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@mail.comox.island.net>
Subject: Re: Series Engine Trouble?

> Hi all,
> I've got a question about an engine problem...
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> constant highway speeds the engine "coughs" or misses, and the whole
> vehicle jerks- then it continues as if nothing happened.

I've had similar symptoms as a result of a fuel tank vent that didn't. 
Might be worth a look. For a quick test take it for a run without the gas 
cap on.

Cheers, Greg

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From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 16:25:44 -0800
Subject: Re: U-bolts etc

----------------------------- Begin Original Text --------------------------

Off the top of my head (its safe to do this here but not on RRO :-(
there are at least two, possibly three variants of u-bolts on series IIA 
and III's.  I cant remember the details, I think the early ones were BSF 
and the later UNC, salisbury ones are different again ISTR.  Its probably 
in a manual somewhere.  I 'spose the solution is to order nuts and bolts 
at the same time...

cheers

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

----------------------------- End Original Text -----------------------------

Then on top of that the rear 'U' bolts are larger diameter then the front 'U'
bolts which come on two different lengths on the front of the car.

TeriAnn

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From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 16:43:05 -0800
Subject: Re: New owner adventures!

Congrats on the new Dormobile.  Best guess is that there were only about 500
Land Rovers converted to Dormobiles  So do take care with it as it is a rare
beastie

The lower clutch mechanical linkage can wear and leave you without much
pedal.  Mine required clutch pedal to the floor and gentle shifting when the
hydrolics were in excellent working shape.

There is a bell crank below the slave cylinder that sits in a bronze bushing.
 Then there is a collar tube that goes between the bellcrank and the actuator
in the bellhousing.  The collar is held in by a pin at each end.  When I
disassembled and inspected mine, I found the bellcrank, bronze collar, and
tube were all worn and elongated.  I replaced all these and the two pins with
new parts.  It made a BIG difference.  Without the slop my clutch was
releasing when the pedal was half way depressed.  Just like a new car.

On the other hand, due to the fact that the slave cylinder is nearly a
vertical drop from the clutch master cylinder it can be VERY difficult to get
all the air out without pressure bleeding.  Most garages that work on brakes
have a pressure bleeder.

The Dormobile interior came with a bunch of cheesy trim panels.  They may be
the right panels.  If you do not have the original panels, I have a complete
set that I plan to use as patterns for making new panels.  I expect to be
done with them some time this summer.  You're welcome to them afterwards.

Good luck 

TeriAnn

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 19:51:11 -0500
Subject: Re: WAIT A Minute how about kit cars(LR)

>If you purchase a legal LR disassemble it 
>transport it & reassemble it as a kit car titled as your personal
> production of one.  Is this legal?  or would it make the government nuts?

Caterham 7s (succesor to Lotus 7s) are imported and sold as kits in the U.S.
I believe they are imported less engine, with the engine obtained in the U.S.
or as a seperate import. Seems like I saw something about pre-'67engines
also. So it should be legal to import a Land Rover "kit". When you go to
title it your state's laws apply, and it will almost certainly be titled and
registered as a "homebuilt", with a state assigned serial number. Safety and
inspection requirements vary by state.

David Cockey

David Cockey
Rochester, MI

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From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh.Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 13:19:14 +1200
Subject: Re: New owner adventures!

> From:          cmw@tiac.net (Christopher Weinbeck)
> Any suggestions on the clutch?  (other than the obvious, thanks)

Check for elongated holes in the operating rod sleeve, where it
enters the bellhousing, and/or bent cotter pins (there are two) in
same.  It's all accessible from underneath and by lifting the right
side floor panel, but it's pretty difficult to see how much play
there is.  It doesn't rotate much through the pedal stroke so any
slop at all is bad.

Oh, and welcome!
-- 
Hugh Grierson   hugh_grierson@trimble.co.nz  

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Subject: toy swap?
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 20:59:34 -0500

I was at a toy show on the weekend and I picked up a military green Husky 
Forward control ser2  with the white star on the roof. It does not have 
the plastice canopy but the paint is 90% there and the decal is 75% 
there. All tyres/wheels present, truck is not bent at all and all windows 
intact. it is about 2 5/8" long.

I already have this one in a multitude of colours, but I really want 
another Matchbox Originals number 12 in mint condition still in the 
blister pack as buyable in the USA.

Is anyone interest in a swap?

BTW this one should be looked for in the stores as mistakes are possible 
with the boxes inside, if you ever find a mistake DONT OPEN IT!!

Rgds

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:46:34
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: Loose linkage sinks ships..or is that...

Nothing like a loose bell crank to give one that feeling of powerlessness on 
the road. Keep those nuts tightened.

Bill Adams
3Dmentia computer animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington, MD 20895
301-949-9475

'66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel  ...all there

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From: Sekerere@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 22:25:25 -0500
Subject: 1963 Series IIA 88" for sale

Will keep this short lest I get it in the neck from someone about posting a
for sale vehicle. I am doing this for a friend who is not on the net and who
restores Land Rovers himself as a business/hobby. He is currently working on
turning an old Series LR into a fire engine for the Payson Fire Dept here in
AZ.
For Sale: 1963 Series IIA 88" Safari Top
This vehicle has undergone a frame-up restoration, it is in immaculate
condition, looks like it came off the line yesterday. The interior is very
"plush" with AM/FM stereo, fully carpeted, and all door and interior trimmed
in the original color grey vinyl trim. No sharp edges anymore. The engine has
been fully reconditioned. It is red with limestone safaritop. $12,000  but
will consider offers. For more info e-mail me at Sekerere@aol.com or call
Marty Davis at (602) 437-9491

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 11:28:10 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: superchargers and coil conversion

1. March LRW has a blurb on a UK kit. Uses a Lysholm compressor, similar
to Whipplecharger and Sprintex brands.  BTW Sprintex is nomore :(
Kit price L6000, but hey, you don't care, right?
B+M demoed a prototype, based on a Roots-type (YEAH!!!, stage'em lights),
but that never materialized.
The UK unit has a pressure-bypass line into the cabin.  Upgrades the espresso
maker to a cappuccino.  ('scuse me, this guy is in my sandbox, I can pick
all I want!)

2. Since I can't get rid of the unwanted RR chassis for someone's coiler
conversion, I have decided that I shall undertake a conversion of my 109
myself!  On Mike's (ECR) advice I will not use the RR frame.  Istead, I'll
use my 109 frame and weld on coil and other brackets.  Stay tuned...
Either a 110-like thing will be born, or a heap of cheap 109 parts will become
available.
Jan

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From: walker@inreach.inreach.com
Subject: club information ?
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 04:32:02 GMT

Hello~  
Any one out there intersted in starting a rover club in the northern California 
area? 
You can e-mail me at walker@inreach.com.
Looking to hitting the dirt with you.
Mark
Stockton, CA

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Subject: Re: club information ? 
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:12:50 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <bulk.10153.19960318203032@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you wrote:
  
> Any one out there intersted in starting a rover club in the northern 
> California area? 
> You can e-mail me at walker@inreach.com.
> Looking to hitting the dirt with you.

	Have you considers joining the mendo_recce email list?  There are 
about 70 Land Rover owners (all types: Series, Denfender, Disco and Range
Rover) from the Bay area on the list.  (And from other states as well--the 
majority of the list is from California though).  We've been getting together 
about once a month for off-roading.  There also have been multiple gatherings
in various pubs in Berkeley and Los Gatos.  This coming weekend will be a 
gathering in Panimint Valley.  At the end of April will be a meet in 
the Mendicino National Forest.  In February we drove around the New Idria 
Serpentine Barrons (near Colinga)...

	To join mendo_recce send email to me stating that you want to join.

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:18:24 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Club information?

At 04:32 AM 3/19/96 GMT, Mark <walker@inreach.com> wrote:
>Hello~  
>Any one out there intersted in starting a rover club in the northern
California 
>area? 
>You can e-mail me at walker@inreach.com.
>Looking to hitting the dirt with you.
>Mark
>Stockton, CA

 Hmmm, ...sounds good!!  Should we join you, or maybe you would like to
 join us?  It might be easier for you to join us, since we have over 650+
 members already with about 250 in California, most of those in *your*
 "neighborhood".

 To join us, send your name, address and Rover information (if any) along
 with the US$20 annual dues to:  LROA Membership, PO Box 1144, Paradise,
 CA 95967 USA (Canada and Mexico add US$4, all other countries add US$6
 for mailing).  You will be issued a membership number and receive the
 Aluminum Workhorse, among other benefits.

 The Aluminum Workhorse (AW) is the quarterly magazine and voice of the
 Land Rover Owners' Association (LROA).  Contact Bob Bernard at
 <bobnsueb@maxinet.com> for further membership info.

 We will keep you posted on upcoming events and rallies.  You might also
 get on the Left Coast Land Rover "Mendo-Recce" mailing list by sending a
 request to Ben Smith at <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>.  Messages to
 the list are mailed to the group at <mendo_recce@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us>
 Also check out the RoverWeb site, links are found on my Rover page.

 Cheers,

-Michael Carradine
 VP pro tem, LROA

                         ______
 Michael Carradine       [__[__\==                    Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900            [________]               Land-Rover Roughmobile
 cs@crl.com  __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88")
 _______________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 08:35:34 +0000
From: Roy Wassili <wassili@AMC.UVA.NL>
Subject: Re: corrosion (aluminium)

Peter,

Can you give some more details about the location of this spot, so we 
can examine for same problems?

Thanks,
LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR
                ____
      |   _____/|__||     Roy Wassili,<wassili@amc.uva.nl>
      |  /(-8|  \   |       Almere, The Netherlands
  ____|_/[]__|__\___|#  Avalon Blue '95 Discovery, VG-XH-66
 |] __=|     |  __  |#         "The Chameleon"
[|_/  \|_____|_/  \_|]
  ( o )        ( o )

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Subject: Lightweights
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 00:19:34 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

	Here's a question for those of you with lightweights.  What are
the differences between the SII Lightweight (1967-1972) and the SIII 
Lightweight (1972-~1980).  I know that circa 1970 the headlights were moved
from the breakfast to the wings on the SII.  I assume that the SIII has the
all syncro gearbox.  Did the SIII Lightweight get the revised dash of the
normal SIII or did is stay with the metal dash and centrally located
instruments?  (I'm mostly looking for visible differences)

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entries
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

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From: azw@aber.ac.uk
Subject: Re: rust treatments
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 08:42:34 UNDEFINED

>Waxol does shring when it drys can fissures can occur.  Its best to spray two
>or three times with a week or so inbetween to let the sprayed Waxol dry.

There are two types. Black and gooey, and clear(ish) and more brittle. The 
black stuff is harder to get hold of, but is what yo want for the chassis. It 
never goes hard, and fills in stone chips automatically. The clear stuff is 
for folk that want to use it instead f a normal paintwork polish - antique 
restorers and teh like.

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 11:11:20 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Hello! (from Cape Town)

Andy Grafton writes from Capetown:
Any replies to me,and I will pass them on,via a low tech method.
Mike Rooth

>To: m.j.rooth@lut.ac.uk
>Subject: Hello!  (from Cape Town)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>Just in case, the cars are 1978 and 1982 versions, complete with all
>the gear, spares, and 10 Michelin XCL (worn) tyres. At present,
>we're sitting in the Zandvlei Municipal Caravan Park.

>Andy

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Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 11:20:56 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Hello! (from Cape Town)

Andy Grafton writes from Capetown:
Any suggestions etc,mail me direct,and I'll pass on the info via low tech
methods.Hopefully,the entire message will appear this time,sorry about
the last effort.
Thanks
Mike Rooth

SUCCESS!  Arrived in Cape Town A-OK despite (horror) broken
fan-belt as our only 'breakdown'.

Now cars are for sale...  Would you mind asking the Collective Brain
if a) anyone wants to buy the things or b) if any of the South African
bods there have any tricks re: selling cars, import duties etc.?

Just in case, the cars are 1978 and 1982 versions, complete with all
the gear, spares, and 10 Michelin XCL (worn) tyres. At present,
we're sitting in the Zandvlei Municipal Caravan Park.

Andy

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