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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 27 | Copyright Reprinted from NYTimes |
2 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 17 | "Copper" brake lines |
3 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 15 | Re[2]: Zen and survival |
4 | "Bobeck, David R." [dbob | 31 | Serious series questions / questionable eating habits |
5 | "T.Stevenson" [gbfv08@ud | 26 | Brake repairs questions |
6 | Ian Robinson [ian@fourx4 | 25 | Re: Brake repairs questions |
7 | Harincar.2@mooregs.com ( | 90 | Frame Replacement Log, Week 10 |
8 | "Mark Talbot" [Land_Rove | 60 | NH Spring safari ... or mud run, depending on the weather. |
9 | Nathan Dunsmore [dunsmo1 | 25 | Re: Serious series questions / questionable eating habits |
10 | Michael & Krista Kirk [m | 39 | Re: WAIT A MINUTE |
11 | bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bo | 33 | diesel flywheel |
12 | "Lee Zeltzer" [lzeltzer@ | 27 | Trip experience |
13 | jjbpears@ix.netcom.com ( | 48 | Parts matching was Re: Frame Replacement |
14 | TWakeman/Apple@eworld.co | 24 | Re: WAIT A MINUTE |
15 | Greg Moore [gmoore@mail. | 16 | erratic 2 1/4 |
16 | RMILLER@Middlebury.edu ( | 24 | Re: Repainting...or not! |
17 | TWakeman/Apple@eworld.co | 19 | Re: erratic 2 1/4 |
18 | Fred Ellsworth [fellswor | 38 | Series Engine Trouble? |
19 | "S. Vels" [svels@mail-se | 22 | Re: Repainting...or not! |
20 | "Gerald" [g@ix.netcom.co | 15 | Hand winch vs. come-along |
21 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 23 | [not specified] |
22 | lopezba@atnet.at | 39 | Re: Removing transfer box |
23 | lopezba@atnet.at | 25 | Re: Overdrive |
24 | 73363.427@compuserve.com | 58 | Re: Repainting...or not! |
25 | Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti | 20 | Wnated: M.Cylinder brackets |
26 | James Kirkpatrick - INEN | 19 | Re: Getting home |
27 | Daryl Webb [dwebb@waite. | 20 | U-bolts etc |
28 | cmw@tiac.net (Christophe | 63 | New owner adventures! |
29 | James Carley [carley@man | 27 | Re: Series III Gearbox problems |
30 | Greg Moore [gmoore@mail. | 16 | Re: Series Engine Trouble? |
31 | TWakeman/Apple@eworld.co | 25 | Re: U-bolts etc |
32 | TWakeman/Apple@eworld.co | 35 | Re: New owner adventures! |
33 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 22 | Re: WAIT A Minute how about kit cars(LR) |
34 | "Hugh Grierson" [Hugh.Gr | 19 | Re: New owner adventures! |
35 | rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca | 27 | [not specified] |
36 | IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILL | 15 | Loose linkage sinks ships..or is that... |
37 | Sekerere@aol.com | 19 | 1963 Series IIA 88" for sale |
38 | jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben | 21 | superchargers and coil conversion |
39 | walker@inreach.inreach.c | 13 | club information ? |
40 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 32 | [not specified] |
41 | Michael Carradine [cs@cr | 47 | Re: Club information? |
42 | Roy Wassili [wassili@AMC | 19 | Re: corrosion (aluminium) |
43 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 21 | [not specified] |
44 | azw@aber.ac.uk | 14 | Re: rust treatments |
45 | M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mik | 17 | Hello! (from Cape Town) |
46 | M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mik | 24 | Hello! (from Cape Town) |
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Copyright Reprinted from NYTimes Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 07:50:00 EST The following, though no LR content, may interest those who havve been discussing copyright. It was from Mondays TimesFax PARIS Officially, Le Grand Secret remains a literary state secret, a physician s tortured disclosure of the elaborate deception to hide the failing health of Francois Mitterrand. The former French President s griev-ing family scorned the book and a French judge banned it for privacy vi-olations, but these state secrets are the world s to share with a few com-puter keystrokes to websites with the complete text, graphics and a gloomy image of Mr. Mitterrand, his mouth muffled by tape. My first reaction when it happened was well-done, well-played, said Olivier Orban, the director of Plon Publishing, the book s publisher. But then I realized the danger on the Internet for all books in the future. We can t protect the author and the copy-right. I think we have no means to fight against it. The same cold chill of anxiety has stricken publishers in the United States who contend copyright infringement on the Internet is the most critical threat facing the industry. Worried publishing executives are pressing for new legislation that will tighten copyright restrictions on the Internet and impose penalties for vio-lations of up to $500,000 fines and five-year jail sentences. Later this month, the Senate Judi-ciary committee will hold a hearing on the proposed legislation. By DOREEN CARVAJAL ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: "Copper" brake lines Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 08:07:00 EST As Al Richer says the "copper" lines are a special alloy,trade name is Tungum, and in brake line sizes it's good for about 25000psi, a bit more than we'll ever need even for a panic stop with both feet. It is used for hydraulic lines on aircraft with special shrink fittings. Regular copper such as used for air conditioning and pneumatic applications is not suitable for brake lines as it fatigues readily under the vibration and pressure changes it encounters as a brake line. Similarly "common or garden" variety Stainless steel tube is not suitable for brakes for similar reasons. In cases where safety is concerned be sure you are using the right stuff. If in doubt stick with good old Bundy tube it lasts for years if properly installed and cared for. ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 08:13:18 PST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Re[2]: Zen and survival If every second counted, I would siphon the fuel out of the others & bid them a fond goodby & get out of Dodge with a drippy wet camo painted 88. PLEASE DO NOT TAKE THIS AS A FLAME ON DISCOVERIES OR RANGE ROVERS TeriAnn TeriAnn you paint a beautiful picture. Dave "And I LIKE Rangies 'n Discos" B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 08:57:26 PST From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> Subject: Serious series questions / questionable eating habits Thanks to all who responded to my questions... I have since discovered what i think is the problem, a small puddle around th bottom lip of the rad. There never was enough to actually cause it to drip on the ground. I did notice a small drip coming off one of the tie rods. So I tasted it in order to determine if it was indeed antifreeze...No wonder pets like that stuff! MMM. Almost like an apertif for when you've finished your 90 weight. So sooner or laer, probably later, I'll take one of my two questionable radiators over to a shop and have 'em look at it. I refuse to buy anything new if I can get away with it...one is known to have holes but looks pretty clean inside. The other is *said* to be *pretty good* but looks pretty caked inside. Anybody have any experienc getting rad's serviced/repaired? If it's pretty claen inside then I'm assuming it'll be okay and not likely to be plugged. BTW I now have a new question. There is a *funny* (or maybe not so funny) clicking sound when coasting to a stop in nuetral. It is only noticeable right before I stop and its possible to stop it by slightly moving the gearshift lever towards second. I recently tightened the mainshaft nut as per RN in a (ha ha) attempt to see if I could stop 1st popping out on the overrrun. Anybody find this interesting or have any insights? I'm suspecting some sort of alignment problem w/ the shift fork, maybe bent? Thanks Again. Dave "Mmm, these pancakes are good. Heavy on the 30 weight, Ma!" B. ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 14:35:58 GMT From: "T.Stevenson" <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk> Subject: Brake repairs questions >First question: How does one *really* remove the brake shoes? The springs on >them are so strong I could not get them off. Finally I used a wrench on the [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >I damaged the edge of the brake lining, and I was afraid I might break the >brake shoe - there must be a better way? My brother made me a neat tool for removing & fitting brake shoes. It consists of a flat 2.5 cm wide 5mm thick steel strip bent into a J-shape. The short arm of the J has a slot cut into it; the longer one has a bar welded on at 90 degrees. In use, the tool is hooked over the end of the shoe, in the same plane, with the web of the shoe fitting the slot of the tool. Plenty of leverage is available via the bar handle to overcome the return springs. It also saves getting grease, blood etc on the new shoes during fitting. ------------------------------------- Tom Stevenson gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk University Marine Biological Station Millport, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland Tel 01475 530581 Fax 01475 530601 ------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:45:08 +0000 From: Ian Robinson <ian@fourx4.demon.co.uk> Subject: Re: Brake repairs questions In message <314CA9B6.184A@tcp.co.uk>, David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk> writes >BTW, I had thought of removing the transfer box first to make removal of the >transmission easier, but the manual said I needed service tool no x335888998... [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] >all the time is quite hard without assistance, and it might ease my task in >replacing the box this week. Ask the guy who supplied you with the box !!! :-) Seriously, yes you can. Remove the handbrake assbly, remove the top and bottom plates, remove the intermediate shaft to release the intermediate cluster, then you can get at the 6 nuts which hold the transfer to the main box. The're much easier to handle then. Regards, Ian FOREST LANDROVERS' 4 x 4 CENTRE Royal Forest of Dean, Glos, UK +44 (0)1594 822606/(0)402 000132 http://www.star.co.uk/forest ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Harincar.2@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:15:27 -0600 Subject: Frame Replacement Log, Week 10 A generally frustrating week. I was trying to keep occupied while I wait for my parts from England. They showed up on saturday afternoon. Still haven't been billed for any shipping... ;-) First, it was get the old bumper off. The was trickier than it sounds. Three of the four bolts sheared in the middle when I twisted them. The ends then wouldn't come out the bottom because of the slant in the frame. Fortunatly (or not, depending on how look at it) both of the front horns were so badly rusted that they broke off the rest of the frame during this process (remember they had cracked when removing the springs). Now I just had to deal with a bumper with horn remnents attached. With a little help from the air chisel, I just ripped apart what was left of the old horns until the bolts were free. Most of what was left I just swept into a dust pan and threw away. Frightning... Next, it was remove the transmission brake linkage in preparation of moving the tub and motor. This is rusted up pretty bad, but I think its saveable. I dropped the rear drive shaft at the same time (it was still connected at the gearbox end). Once the linkage was off, I preceeded to free the rest of the tub, except for the fuel filler. So now the tub is just resting on the old chassis, ready to be lifted. I also ran the rear wiring harness through the new frame, using the tape measure trick someone posted not too long ago. Before I pulled the wire through I stuck the air line into the hole and blew a ton of junk out of the inside of the frame. Rodent homes, sand, etc., hopefully getting some of the water trapping junk out. Spent an evening puttering, sanding rust off parts, etc. I got some parts from RN on Friday, one of which was a clutch cylinder rebuild kit. This is where the frustration began. I brought the cylinder in the house to clean it up and tear it down. The bracket that holds the cylinders was pretty rusted up (if anyone has a spare, let me know...). When I tried to loosen one of the mounting bolts, the cylinder just cracked off at both bolt flanges. Then another bit with a red cap in it cracked off. The cylinder was just kind of crumbling in my hands. Hello? Rover's North? This is Tim again, I'd like to place an order... That was before I started working with the stuff from LR Supermarket. The very first parts I checked out were new rear u-bolts, since I'm going to be mounting the rear axle next. I had a set of genuine lock nuts for these from RN (forgot to order them with the bolts), but they wouldn't thread! None of the nuts would thread on any of the bolts! So I went out and pulled a nut off of one of the other non-genuine u-bolts I have on the front, and *that* wouldn't thread either. Grrrrr! Is it possible that for some wierd reason a u-bolt from england would have a different thread than a US bolt? Wouldn't you just make them to LR spec? Good god! So now I'm trying to decide if I should try to get some nuts that will fit or just screw it and get another set of u-bolts (from someone here in the states). I really hope this isn't an oman of things to come with this order... Something to keep in mind when ordering overseas... Leaving that for now, I still needed to drive 6 new bushings in the rear springs & frame. Hah! The spring bushings won't even *start*, much less go into the spring. Its like I didn't even pull the old bushing out. The hole seems to be too small by just about the same amount as the outer bushing sleeve. Sigh. I was able to drive the two frame bushings in without too much trouble... So, just to save time and effort at this point, I'm going to see if I can find a spring shop to press the new bushings in. Hopefully, progress will return again. Still hoping to pull the motor on saturday. Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 15:32:59 UT From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com> Subject: NH Spring safari ... or mud run, depending on the weather. All, I have had over a dozen requests to run another NH Safari. After the great time most of us had this past Saturday, I thought why not. BTW we had 13 vehicles show up, all models, yes even 5 plushies !!! Those that want the details can read the report posted yesterday. Spring will truly be here at the end of April, so I'm planning the next run for Saturday 27th April 1996. We will leave Keene NH at 10AM SHARP !!!!!! The meeting point will be the same place, Dunkin Donuts just off the intersection with Route 10 and Route 101. This will give everyone a good chance to get food, coffee etc. BEFORE we start off. Logistics. This time instead of snow it will probably be MUD. How much will depend on how much more snow we get, and how quickly the ground has thawed out. But come prepared for mud. Tools: Tow Ropes, CB's, Hi-lift jacks, Winches, come-a-longs. Chain saws or axes. Bring dry socks, and maybe another pair of boots. Certainly bring a change of clothes. Hotel accommodations are available at the Days Inn or the Best Western in Keene. If you want me to make reservations for you e-mail me. My wife is a travel agent in town ! or you can just call yourself. A night's stay is about $40-$50. We will tailgate lunch out in the woods, so pre-pack a lunch BEFORE we start !!! We will stop in the evening for a Bar-B-Q at my house, bring your own beer etc. Those that may have Discoveries or Range Rovers that want to come, REMOVE your front spoilers. If we get mud, you will dig them into the ground and probably end up carry them home in the back !!! We will probably encounter water, how deep again will depend on the thaw. If you have a wading plug put it in. If you don't have a wading plug then order one. With all the mud the drain hole could get blocked. Interestingly, out of the all the request I had for this past weekends trip, 7 owners were not on the Internet. So tell your friends. I look forward to another great day in the woods. MARK ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 10:21:21 -0500 From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net> Subject: Re: Serious series questions / questionable eating habits Bobeck, David R. wrote: > Anybody have any experienc getting rad's serviced/repaired? If it's pretty claen > inside then I'm assuming it'll be okay and not likely to be plugged. > Dave "Mmm, these pancakes are good. Heavy on the 30 weight, Ma!" B. > inside then I'm assuming it'll be okay and not likely to be plugged. In my experience, if there isn't significant corrosion (not just the caked on sludge), either radiator can be repaired by a good shop. The sludge can be easily cleaned out as long as it is not associated with significant rusting. If the holes are due to generalized rusting and deterioration, repairing them will do little good since other spots will be nearly as bad. If you go to a reputable (often times this means small local) shop, they should be able to tell you whether it is worthwhile to fix the hole. I found the radiator shop I use by talking with my trusted mechanic, but I know of a place off I95 just north of Baltimore that is good as well if you're interested. Nate Dunsmore Rocking Horse Farm Boring, MD 21020 dunsmo19@us.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:22:16 -0500 From: Michael & Krista Kirk <michaelk@infi.net> Subject: Re: WAIT A MINUTE Theodore Don't sugar coat it, tell us how you really feel. !!!! I guess the point is "Buyer Beware". However, in Sean's defense, I read the literature in his web page and it was obvious to me what his company was doing. One the phone, he repeated disclosed this fact. So ripping off consumer's is not a fair assesment of his company's practices. If there is a market out there for modified Pre-1969 LR's, then Renewed traditions is just catering to that market. They do sell unmodified vehicles, refurbished vehicles, and modified vehicles. I guess a more accurate discription would be to say a "PERFECTLY LEGAL STAGE 1 V-8" based on a 1969 chassis. Again, misleading and fradulent they are not. However the buyer should aways beware. Michael 92 RR Theodore S. wrote: > No! You are very wrong in what you stated and suggested in your message > below. First, the series III, which the Stage One V8 is based on, did not [ truncated by lro-digester (was 48 lines)] > E-mail ATLANTA67@AOL.COM > WWW: http://users.aol.com/atlanta67/renewed.htm -- ============================================================= Michael & Krista Kirk => "michaelk@infi.net" Norfolk, Virginia ============================================================= ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard) Subject: diesel flywheel Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 08:21:10 -0800 David asked, >I had a call from someone in Ontario who wanted a diesel flywheel. He >lost a lot of teeth on his. I have a couple here. Is there any [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >there are two markings, something like 16 deg. and 18 deg. and another >thing that says EP. Does this sound like a regular flywheel? It came Hi, On Sunday David Place asked about the diesel flywheel, While I have no experience on diesel either, I think it sounds like you may be describing a S1 flywheel. I have a 74 diesel flywheel (2 1/4) and it looks like the petrol but is somewhat thicker and weighs 40 lbs,compared to 30 lbs for petrol.(That makes it 1/3 heavier,,Or is the petrol 1/4 lighter??? :>) The ring gear is thicker, and the teeth count out to be the same as petrol. The studs you mention aren't there.Just the three alignment dowels. It has the EP mark and 13-14 deg I also have the 74 sealed type diesel starter and would like to sell it. Bob Bernard __________________________________________________ |>>>>>>>>>>> bobnsueb@maxinet.com <<<<<<<<<<<<<<| |Robert and Suzanne Bernard - Paradise, California| |'69 88 SW Sherman, '60 88 P/U Stubby, '51 80 Nelly| |__________________________________________________| >have the screw threads so I assume I have the right one. On the side ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:14:37 -0700 From: "Lee Zeltzer" <lzeltzer@isdnet.com> Subject: Trip experience Though I would throw in an off road experience in case anyone has the future opportunity. I spent Sunday with five other Defenders and a 4 Runner, running the Charouleau gap located on the North side of the Catalina mountains near Oracle Arizona. What made the trip eventful, other than watching me high centering my D90 in a river, with water! (Water in desert rivers is an event to be celebrated) was our tour guide. Bill Burke of 4 Wheeling America made the trip down from Denver to lead the tour/class. As I learned, Bill was on the Camel trophy team in 1991 and it shows. As a novice, obvious from my river driving skills, I learned a lot and had a great time. If anyone has the opportunity to take a trip or class with Bill I recommend the experience. He has a web site http://www.wizard.comm/4wa. -- Lee Zeltzer, Senior Consultant Innovative System Design 100 N. Stone Ave. Suite 605 Tucson AZ 85701 (520)791-3323 X 21 http://www.isdnet.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 08:51:59 -0800 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: Parts matching was Re: Frame Replacement You wrote: snip >That was before I started working with the stuff from LR Supermarket. >The very first parts I checked out were new rear u-bolts, since I'm >going to be mounting the rear axle next. I had a set of genuine lock nuts for these from RN (forgot to order them with the bolts), but they wouldn't thread! None of the nuts would thread on any of the bolts! So I went out and pulled a nut off of one of the other non-genuine u-bolts I have on the front, and *that* wouldn't thread either. Grrrrr! Is it possible that for some wierd reason a u-bolt from england would have a different thread than a US bolt? Wouldn't you just make them to LR spec? Good god! So now I'm trying to decide if I should try to get some nuts that will fit or just screw it and get another set of u-bolts (from someone here in the states). I really hope this isn't an oman of things to come with this order... Something to keep in mind when ordering overseas... snip Tim --- I sympathize with the frustration. I don't think its so much an overseas ordering issue as a general problem with parts suppliers. I've had a total schedule delay of approximately 1.5 months (weekend count) due to assorted misfitting parts, in all cases from US suppliers. It's entirely possible that the nuts from RN are the wrong nuts - it's happened to me on ball joints from other sources. The nuts for the genuine U-bolts, I BELIEVE (I could be wrong,) are BSF (9/16?). This might be the issue. This might be overly simplistic advice but I'd take the U-bolt to a hardware store and physically check the fit against UNF and metric nuts to make sure. Cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:18:34 -0800 Subject: Re: WAIT A MINUTE Theodore Have you even bothered to read their web pages???? If you had I'm suprised you would make those acusations. I could find no evidence of them trying to rip customers off. You buy the basic car and if you wish you can chose from a list of options, one of which happens to be an early 3.5L V8, heavy duty radiator, a front clip to house the new stuff up front, heavy duty suspension, and uprated brake system. I did not see them trying to pass this off as a genuine stage 1 Land Rover. I would suggest that before you make a major flame like this you get your facts straight. It not only shows you off in a bad light but it gives a lot of bad press to a comany who hasn't done anything wrong. TeriAnn ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:32:00 -0800 From: Greg Moore <gmoore@mail.comox.island.net> Subject: erratic 2 1/4 My 2 1/4 petrol doesn't seem to like cold, damp weather. It stalls at stop signs and backfires (exhaust) on decelleration. This behavior stays with it for 1/2 hr or more. However, if I drive for 5 min. and shut the monster off for 5 minutes or so she idles like a dream when restarted. I never use the choke (a pet peeve regarding raw fuel and cylinder lubrication) so it shouldn't be choke related. It's as if the idle mixture were way off but as I said if I shut it down (sometimes waiting for a long traffic light will suffice) and then restart it's problem cured. Any suggestions? Thanks, Greg ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 13:26:06 +0000 From: RMILLER@Middlebury.edu (Raoul Miller) Subject: Re: Repainting...or not! >> I am interested in repainting my 73 ser III. I live in the Pacific Northwest >> USA and wonder how much I can expect to pay for a quality job. Does anyone >> have suggestions about finding a shop with experience and knowledge in >> painting Land Rovers. I'm down to bare aluminum. > Don't do it! It won't rust and you can rub out your off-road-rashes with > metal polish... Just an idea. There's an 88 station wagon (11a, I think) in Boulder Colorado which is just polished aluminium - looks great. I would have thought that over time the shine would oxidise, though. Does the bare surface need to be continually polished like the family silver or is it fairly inert? Cheers, Raoul Raoul Miller Dept. Of Geography Middlebury College Middlebury, VT 05753 (802)388-3711 X5210 ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 11:33:09 -0800 Subject: Re: erratic 2 1/4 Greg, If you engine has stalls, backfires & such when the weather is damp untill the engine compartment gets warm. check your primary and secondary ignition system. You may need a new set of plug wires. Your small primary wire from the coil to the distributer may need replacing. You may just need to wipe clean contaminates off the electrical connections on the coil & distributer. Maybe youy have some moisture inside the cap? My old MGBGT didn't want to start in cool damp mornings. Cleaning up the low voltage connections curred the problem. TeriAnn ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 14:57:20 -0500 From: Fred Ellsworth <fellswor@camb-lads.loral.com> Subject: Series Engine Trouble? Hi all, I've got a question about an engine problem that's had me stumped since we bought our '71 IIA 88" a couple years ago. Going on the theory that many minds are better than one I thought I'd solicit suggestions from the collective wisdom... Here's the problem: Occassionally when letting up on the accelerator after traveling at constant highway speeds the engine "coughs" or misses, and the whole vehicle jerks- then it continues as if nothing happened. Its feels almost as if a cylander fires out of order or something... In the past year I've put in a new Luminition electronic ignition, a new carburator, new plugs, cap, rotor & ignition wires, & a high output Lucas ignition coil ($4 @ a wreckers- what the heck). Although none of this was done specifically to correct this problem it hasn't helped either. In fact, it seems to be happening more often than it did in the past. I'm not too worried because the engine seems to run fine at all other times, compression is strong, etc., but it's a little disconcerting (especially for passengers who have been bombarded by stories of Rover superiority) and I can't help thinking that there is some unecessary stress being put on various engine components when this occurs. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, Thanks, Fred '71 IIA 88" Boston, MA PS Al Richer, has your e-mail address changed or are you having a problem with your mailer? Several messages I've sent you in the past three weeks have been bounced back. ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk> Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 20:55:41 +0001 Subject: Re: Repainting...or not! > just polished aluminium - looks great. I would have thought that over time > the shine would oxidise, though. Does the bare surface need to be > continually polished like the family silver or is it fairly inert? > Cheers, Raoul > Raoul Miller I'm afraid you will need to polish regularly. Ever seen a Lotus 7?. Has a matte surface except when on display for sale. Salt will help make the surface more grey and rough. A product called Alu-Magic was mentioned in a classic car magazine. Don't know anything about it though. rgds sv/aurens ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com> Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 15:27:38 +0100 Subject: Hand winch vs. come-along What is the difference, if any, between a hand oeprated winch and a come along? Where is one better than the other? TIA -- Gerald Massachusetts, U.S. g@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Overdrives Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 12:46:44 -0800 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> Someone mentioned an article on the Fairey Overdrive in LRO. After searching though my collection, I found it. Land Rover Owener International December 1995, pp 158-160 It's part two of a 2 part series and describes a full teardown with pictures. I'd say the article is well worth the cover price if you don't normally get the magazine. Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entries from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. He'd drive it up the Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..." --Kevin Archie ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:43:40 +0100 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Removing transfer box David - thanks for the tip: >My technique is to use a big screwdriver as a lever to pull each shoe off the >piston and forward in front of the piston. Then both springs will be contracted >enough to make removal simple. You have discovered the damage that can occur to >the linings by using a wrench!:-( So you won't do that again.:-) I tried the screwdriver approach, but could not find a fulcrum for it. Anyway, I will have ample opportunity to test various methods because all the old bleeding screws are seized and I will exchange all the wheel cylinders affected. >BTW, I had thought of removing the transfer box first to make removal of the >transmission easier, but the manual said I needed service tool no x335888998... >(or similar) to extract the main shaft, which is retained with a 'c' clamp. Can >anyone tell me: is this true, or will it come out with simple force? Is any real >difficulty encountered in removing the transfer box? Moving the whole unit around >all the time is quite hard without assistance, and it might ease my task in >replacing the box this week. LROI had an article with pictures about overhauling an SIIA/SIII transmission in January 96, and they left the transfer box on the transmission when they removed the transmission. If its any help and if you can't lay your hands on the magazine, I could fax you the pages, although the pictures are better in colour, of course. Let me know. Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:43:56 +0100 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Overdrive Ben - > Which issue? (I don't recall seeing that article and I have most of >the LROI since 1992) Sorry not to have mentioned it. The articles were in LROI June 95 page 106, LROI November 95 page 80 and LROI December 95 page 158. There was also something about the nut on the main shaft in June 95 page 49. I hope the issues that go to the States are the same as the ones we get in Europe. > It's is a very odd feeling to be driving at ~45 mph, hit the clutch, >reach for the OD lever and find that it isn't there. >Ben Must be kind of like I feel whem I am in a hired car in the UK or India or Southern Africa - my hand tries to find the gear lever and all it gets is the crank for the window... Regards Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1) ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: 73363.427@compuserve.com Date: 18 Mar 96 16:13:12 EST Subject: Re: Repainting...or not! >>> I am interested in repainting my 73 ser III. I live in the Pacific Northwest >> USA and wonder how much I can expect to pay for a quality job. Does anyone [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)] > Don't do it! It won't rust and you can rub out your off-road-rashes with > metal polish... Just an idea. There's an 88 station wagon (11a, I think) in Boulder Colorado which is just polished aluminium - looks great. I would have thought that over time the shine would oxidise, though. Does the bare surface need to be continually polished like the family silver or is it fairly inert? Cheers, Raoul << My SerIII has not had any paint on it for over 6 years. I have only had it 5 (Luckily I didn't have to do the stripping). But it seems that once the layer of oxidation forms, it does not get any worse. I have not seen any signs of deteriation at all. I received some rather rough "Pinstriping" a few weeks ago, and it was all removed with a rather coarse scrubbing pad. Anything worse could be removed with steel wool or similar. I purchase a pickup cab, several months ago, and it was very easy to strip the remaining paint off and have it match the rest of the vehicle. I have a small section that was patched with bondo by a PO, with a little aluminum paint it is barely noticeable. Also the aluminum paint was used on the breakfast and firewall. I used a little Mother's Mag Wheel Polish, on the rear of the vehicle when I had the safari top on. It looked like a airstream trailer, and also cut back on people tailgating at night<g>. I might have tried the whole vehicle, but the bondo section would have stood out. Besides it would have been to BRIGHT. As it is now it is a sort of dull gray, much like portions of most of these vehicles that have not been repainted. I like not having to worry about scratching the paint, and am not planning on painting the vehicle until I have to replace the firewall, which doesn't appear to needed any time soon. ------------------- | | | | _ _ ____|____ _ _ | Rob Dennis O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O 73363.427@Compuserve.com \____===_=====_===____/ Atlanta, GA USA |oo |(_)###(_)| oo| (404) 875-4537 | | ### | | | | ####### | | 1972 SerIII 88 Color:N/A |_____|_#######_|_____| 1990 RangeRover [_______________________] EEEI EEEI Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com On 18-Mar-1996 ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 16:06:15 -0600 Subject: Wnated: M.Cylinder brackets This was kind of buried in my weekly log... Since my mud sheilds were destroyed, my master cylinder brackets took a beating and are rusted pretty bad. If anyone has spares from a parts vehicle, specifically the clutch but maybe both, and is willing to sell (or donate ;-) ), please let me know. Thanks, Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 17:16:06 -0500 (EST) From: James Kirkpatrick - INEN/F94 <jkirkpat@acs.ryerson.ca> Subject: Re: Getting home Ian, I drove through Stratford yesterday around 11 am, I was looking out but didn't see you. Perhaps next time. As far a moving a rover I towed a 1958 Series II with no wheels or axels on a U Haul car transporter from London to New Market. The trailer has its own hyraulic brakes and did not seem to be too much of a burden on my IIA. Give me a call I'll be in most nights this week. Jay Kirkpatrick (416) 599-2402 ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Daryl Webb <dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au> Subject: U-bolts etc Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 09:25:43 +1030 (CDT) Tim and Jeremy have had problems with U-bolt nuts. Off the top of my head (its safe to do this here but not on RRO :-( there are at least two, possibly three variants of u-bolts on series IIA and III's. I cant remember the details, I think the early ones were BSF and the later UNC, salisbury ones are different again ISTR. Its probably in a manual somewhere. I 'spose the solution is to order nuts and bolts at the same time... cheers -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 19:07:08 -0500 From: cmw@tiac.net (Christopher Weinbeck) Subject: New owner adventures! Hello all! I have been trying to get posession of a Land Rover for *two years*, and one was finally delivered Tuesday the 12th. :-) It didn't take more than a quick look to see that my fun has only just begun. :-O It's a '69 109" 2.6 RHDwOD Dormobile conversion. The chassis looks pretty decent, it runs, has a new exhaust system, a new horn, good brakes and lots of neat holes in the bulkhead. Did I mention all the great SPOTs?? Like some cheesy trim panels and carpet set (of course the carpet is _really_ well glued down) and really, really thickly applied forrest green paint -everywhere. The badge on the grill is even upside-down. Oh, the engine has a really good rap and the clutch is way down at the bottom of the pedal and it slips. But I had a great time rippin' around the parking lot with my girlfriend :-) First project: try bleeding the clutch slave cylinder. There's the access hole -but this is RHD so the pedals prevent my carefull use of a wrench -never mind getting my head close enough for a look! Remove tunnel cover to remove bulkhead cowling, Oops, remove carpet to remove tunnel cover to remove bulkhead cowling, Go buy impact driver to remove screws to remove tunnel cover. Ok, now remove Smith's heater to remove bulkhead cowling to bleed slave cylinder. Remove bonnet prop-rod's rusty cotter pin and spring to flip back bonnet to remove hoses to remove Smith's heater to remove bulkhead cowling to... AArgh! It's all apart and the bleed screw is siezed and I'm pretty sure I'll break it. ("Yes, honey I did notice that the bulkhead cowling is *really* corroded, thank you.") Hillarious (did I mention cold?)antics in my driveway, let me tell you! I put my earplugs in so I wouldn't notice my talking to myself. But the bleed screw did come free, air did bleed out and my clutch did improve (some). Of course the rip around the neighborhood reminded me of that nice rapping sound at medium high revs. High points -Saturday afternoon a neighbor woman and son come up and she says it's gorgeous. Sunday night the female clerk at the book store looks at the LRW I'm buying and starts gushing about how she used to own two, and they're great, and don't ever get rid of it. -Pulling it up on the giant pill of snow at the end of my driveway wasn't bad either :-) Any suggestions on the clutch? (other than the obvious, thanks) The engine? (double ditto! -I'm talking parts sources) Chris ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Christopher Weinbeck Office Logic, Inc. V (508) 392-0288 _______ 7 Littleton Road F (508) 692-0897 |__][_[_\__ Westford, MA 01886 |___\_|_]__] (o) (o) -Artist's conception of, as yet, undeliverd Rover. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 10:27:09 EST From: James Carley <carley@manly.civeng.unsw.EDU.AU> Subject: Re: Series III Gearbox problems Alan wrote >Over the last week or so, first gear has become harder and harder to select >when at rest, buts its ok when changing down, on the move from 2nd to 1st. >2nd gear has also started to "crunch" since the problem with 1st gear started. My guess is a clutch problem. Clutch is not fully disengaging and/or pilot bearing/bush in the flywheel is dragging. This can also be from the clutch driven plate sticking on the transmission shaft splines. The clutch master and slave cylinders are a common problem and easily replaced. I had a similar problem in a Toyota Hilux 4WD I bought many years ago, before I could afford a LR 110. I got it cheap 'cause of this problem and thought I was up for a new gearbox, but the problem was solved by a new clutch and pilot bearing. I used to have to switch the motor off to get it in 1st if I'd already stopped. James Carley Water Research Laboratory University of New South Wales Sydney, Australia ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 14:08:18 -0800 From: Greg Moore <gmoore@mail.comox.island.net> Subject: Re: Series Engine Trouble? > Hi all, > I've got a question about an engine problem... [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > constant highway speeds the engine "coughs" or misses, and the whole > vehicle jerks- then it continues as if nothing happened. I've had similar symptoms as a result of a fuel tank vent that didn't. Might be worth a look. For a quick test take it for a run without the gas cap on. Cheers, Greg ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 16:25:44 -0800 Subject: Re: U-bolts etc ----------------------------- Begin Original Text -------------------------- Off the top of my head (its safe to do this here but not on RRO :-( there are at least two, possibly three variants of u-bolts on series IIA and III's. I cant remember the details, I think the early ones were BSF and the later UNC, salisbury ones are different again ISTR. Its probably in a manual somewhere. I 'spose the solution is to order nuts and bolts at the same time... cheers Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) ----------------------------- End Original Text ----------------------------- Then on top of that the rear 'U' bolts are larger diameter then the front 'U' bolts which come on two different lengths on the front of the car. TeriAnn ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 16:43:05 -0800 Subject: Re: New owner adventures! Congrats on the new Dormobile. Best guess is that there were only about 500 Land Rovers converted to Dormobiles So do take care with it as it is a rare beastie The lower clutch mechanical linkage can wear and leave you without much pedal. Mine required clutch pedal to the floor and gentle shifting when the hydrolics were in excellent working shape. There is a bell crank below the slave cylinder that sits in a bronze bushing. Then there is a collar tube that goes between the bellcrank and the actuator in the bellhousing. The collar is held in by a pin at each end. When I disassembled and inspected mine, I found the bellcrank, bronze collar, and tube were all worn and elongated. I replaced all these and the two pins with new parts. It made a BIG difference. Without the slop my clutch was releasing when the pedal was half way depressed. Just like a new car. On the other hand, due to the fact that the slave cylinder is nearly a vertical drop from the clutch master cylinder it can be VERY difficult to get all the air out without pressure bleeding. Most garages that work on brakes have a pressure bleeder. The Dormobile interior came with a bunch of cheesy trim panels. They may be the right panels. If you do not have the original panels, I have a complete set that I plan to use as patterns for making new panels. I expect to be done with them some time this summer. You're welcome to them afterwards. Good luck TeriAnn ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 19:51:11 -0500 Subject: Re: WAIT A Minute how about kit cars(LR) >If you purchase a legal LR disassemble it >transport it & reassemble it as a kit car titled as your personal > production of one. Is this legal? or would it make the government nuts? Caterham 7s (succesor to Lotus 7s) are imported and sold as kits in the U.S. I believe they are imported less engine, with the engine obtained in the U.S. or as a seperate import. Seems like I saw something about pre-'67engines also. So it should be legal to import a Land Rover "kit". When you go to title it your state's laws apply, and it will almost certainly be titled and registered as a "homebuilt", with a state assigned serial number. Safety and inspection requirements vary by state. David Cockey David Cockey Rochester, MI ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh.Grierson@trimble.co.nz> Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 13:19:14 +1200 Subject: Re: New owner adventures! > From: cmw@tiac.net (Christopher Weinbeck) > Any suggestions on the clutch? (other than the obvious, thanks) Check for elongated holes in the operating rod sleeve, where it enters the bellhousing, and/or bent cotter pins (there are two) in same. It's all accessible from underneath and by lifting the right side floor panel, but it's pretty difficult to see how much play there is. It doesn't rotate much through the pedal stroke so any slop at all is bad. Oh, and welcome! -- Hugh Grierson hugh_grierson@trimble.co.nz ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: toy swap? From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig) Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 20:59:34 -0500 I was at a toy show on the weekend and I picked up a military green Husky Forward control ser2 with the white star on the roof. It does not have the plastice canopy but the paint is 90% there and the decal is 75% there. All tyres/wheels present, truck is not bent at all and all windows intact. it is about 2 5/8" long. I already have this one in a multitude of colours, but I really want another Matchbox Originals number 12 in mint condition still in the blister pack as buyable in the USA. Is anyone interest in a swap? BTW this one should be looked for in the stores as mistakes are possible with the boxes inside, if you ever find a mistake DONT OPEN IT!! Rgds Robin Craig -- Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. | Ottawa Valley Land Rovers ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:46:34 From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS) Subject: Loose linkage sinks ships..or is that... Nothing like a loose bell crank to give one that feeling of powerlessness on the road. Keep those nuts tightened. Bill Adams 3Dmentia computer animation 4016 Spruell Drive Kensington, MD 20895 301-949-9475 '66 Land Rover S2A 109" Station Wagon Diesel ...all there ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sekerere@aol.com Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 22:25:25 -0500 Subject: 1963 Series IIA 88" for sale Will keep this short lest I get it in the neck from someone about posting a for sale vehicle. I am doing this for a friend who is not on the net and who restores Land Rovers himself as a business/hobby. He is currently working on turning an old Series LR into a fire engine for the Payson Fire Dept here in AZ. For Sale: 1963 Series IIA 88" Safari Top This vehicle has undergone a frame-up restoration, it is in immaculate condition, looks like it came off the line yesterday. The interior is very "plush" with AM/FM stereo, fully carpeted, and all door and interior trimmed in the original color grey vinyl trim. No sharp edges anymore. The engine has been fully reconditioned. It is red with limestone safaritop. $12,000 but will consider offers. For more info e-mail me at Sekerere@aol.com or call Marty Davis at (602) 437-9491 ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 11:28:10 EST From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben) Subject: superchargers and coil conversion 1. March LRW has a blurb on a UK kit. Uses a Lysholm compressor, similar to Whipplecharger and Sprintex brands. BTW Sprintex is nomore :( Kit price L6000, but hey, you don't care, right? B+M demoed a prototype, based on a Roots-type (YEAH!!!, stage'em lights), but that never materialized. The UK unit has a pressure-bypass line into the cabin. Upgrades the espresso maker to a cappuccino. ('scuse me, this guy is in my sandbox, I can pick all I want!) 2. Since I can't get rid of the unwanted RR chassis for someone's coiler conversion, I have decided that I shall undertake a conversion of my 109 myself! On Mike's (ECR) advice I will not use the RR frame. Istead, I'll use my 109 frame and weld on coil and other brackets. Stay tuned... Either a 110-like thing will be born, or a heap of cheap 109 parts will become available. Jan ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: walker@inreach.inreach.com Subject: club information ? Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 04:32:02 GMT Hello~ Any one out there intersted in starting a rover club in the northern California area? You can e-mail me at walker@inreach.com. Looking to hitting the dirt with you. Mark Stockton, CA ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: club information ? Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:12:50 -0800 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> In message <bulk.10153.19960318203032@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you wrote: > Any one out there intersted in starting a rover club in the northern > California area? > You can e-mail me at walker@inreach.com. > Looking to hitting the dirt with you. Have you considers joining the mendo_recce email list? There are about 70 Land Rover owners (all types: Series, Denfender, Disco and Range Rover) from the Bay area on the list. (And from other states as well--the majority of the list is from California though). We've been getting together about once a month for off-roading. There also have been multiple gatherings in various pubs in Berkeley and Los Gatos. This coming weekend will be a gathering in Panimint Valley. At the end of April will be a meet in the Mendicino National Forest. In February we drove around the New Idria Serpentine Barrons (near Colinga)... To join mendo_recce send email to me stating that you want to join. Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. He'd drive it up the Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..." --Kevin Archie ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:18:24 -0800 From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com> Subject: Re: Club information? At 04:32 AM 3/19/96 GMT, Mark <walker@inreach.com> wrote: >Hello~ >Any one out there intersted in starting a rover club in the northern California >area? >You can e-mail me at walker@inreach.com. >Looking to hitting the dirt with you. >Mark >Stockton, CA Hmmm, ...sounds good!! Should we join you, or maybe you would like to join us? It might be easier for you to join us, since we have over 650+ members already with about 250 in California, most of those in *your* "neighborhood". To join us, send your name, address and Rover information (if any) along with the US$20 annual dues to: LROA Membership, PO Box 1144, Paradise, CA 95967 USA (Canada and Mexico add US$4, all other countries add US$6 for mailing). You will be issued a membership number and receive the Aluminum Workhorse, among other benefits. The Aluminum Workhorse (AW) is the quarterly magazine and voice of the Land Rover Owners' Association (LROA). Contact Bob Bernard at <bobnsueb@maxinet.com> for further membership info. We will keep you posted on upcoming events and rallies. You might also get on the Left Coast Land Rover "Mendo-Recce" mailing list by sending a request to Ben Smith at <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>. Messages to the list are mailed to the group at <mendo_recce@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us> Also check out the RoverWeb site, links are found on my Rover page. Cheers, -Michael Carradine VP pro tem, LROA ______ Michael Carradine [__[__\== Rumpole of the Bay 510-988-0900 [________] Land-Rover Roughmobile cs@crl.com __________.._(o)__.(o)____...o^^^ '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88") _______________________________________________________________________ Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page: http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 08:35:34 +0000 From: Roy Wassili <wassili@AMC.UVA.NL> Subject: Re: corrosion (aluminium) Peter, Can you give some more details about the location of this spot, so we can examine for same problems? Thanks, LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR ____ | _____/|__|| Roy Wassili,<wassili@amc.uva.nl> | /(-8| \ | Almere, The Netherlands ____|_/[]__|__\___|# Avalon Blue '95 Discovery, VG-XH-66 |] __=| | __ |# "The Chameleon" [|_/ \|_____|_/ \_|] ( o ) ( o ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Lightweights Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 00:19:34 -0800 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> Here's a question for those of you with lightweights. What are the differences between the SII Lightweight (1967-1972) and the SIII Lightweight (1972-~1980). I know that circa 1970 the headlights were moved from the breakfast to the wings on the SII. I assume that the SIII has the all syncro gearbox. Did the SIII Lightweight get the revised dash of the normal SIII or did is stay with the metal dash and centrally located instruments? (I'm mostly looking for visible differences) Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entries from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. He'd drive it up the Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..." --Kevin Archie ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: azw@aber.ac.uk Subject: Re: rust treatments Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 08:42:34 UNDEFINED >Waxol does shring when it drys can fissures can occur. Its best to spray two >or three times with a week or so inbetween to let the sprayed Waxol dry. There are two types. Black and gooey, and clear(ish) and more brittle. The black stuff is harder to get hold of, but is what yo want for the chassis. It never goes hard, and fills in stone chips automatically. The clear stuff is for folk that want to use it instead f a normal paintwork polish - antique restorers and teh like. ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 11:11:20 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Hello! (from Cape Town) Andy Grafton writes from Capetown: Any replies to me,and I will pass them on,via a low tech method. Mike Rooth >To: m.j.rooth@lut.ac.uk >Subject: Hello! (from Cape Town) [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)] >Just in case, the cars are 1978 and 1982 versions, complete with all >the gear, spares, and 10 Michelin XCL (worn) tyres. At present, >we're sitting in the Zandvlei Municipal Caravan Park. >Andy ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 11:20:56 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Hello! (from Cape Town) Andy Grafton writes from Capetown: Any suggestions etc,mail me direct,and I'll pass on the info via low tech methods.Hopefully,the entire message will appear this time,sorry about the last effort. Thanks Mike Rooth SUCCESS! Arrived in Cape Town A-OK despite (horror) broken fan-belt as our only 'breakdown'. Now cars are for sale... Would you mind asking the Collective Brain if a) anyone wants to buy the things or b) if any of the South African bods there have any tricks re: selling cars, import duties etc.? Just in case, the cars are 1978 and 1982 versions, complete with all the gear, spares, and 10 Michelin XCL (worn) tyres. At present, we're sitting in the Zandvlei Municipal Caravan Park. Andy ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960319 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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