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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: JDolan2109@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 09:18:20 -0500
Subject: mixture screw adjustments

I doubt it's real important, but I've been reading the thread about mixture
screw adjustments and have noticed two unstated philosophies going by...
My educuation and experience (structural layout, highrise), have taught me to
always load the spring tension on an adjusting screw, not relieve it, before
'use'. This would require 'backing out' the screw beyond the desired/optimum
adjustment, then turning the screw back in to proper set. This will apply
tension to the spring in a known, predictable manner; otherwise the spring is
liable to release its tension ('jump') at any time, not necessarily at time
of adjustment (it will most likely not stay at the present 'set', and a
"blunder" occurs). I know my mixture screw is not so sensitive, but I had the
oppurtunity to go off on a tangent here...
Hey, we got good mud happenin' here (Vt)! The sap it floweth and the mud doth
begin to ooze! Almost had to use low range just to get up to the house Friday
night. Current conditions are hard frozen ruts in AM, giving way to 'plastic'
conditions, then 'greasey' surface slop in later PM. Next week and the
following should be ideal, as the depth improves...
see 'ya in the old road...
Jim '61 LR 88" SW  w/ 16's, OD 1 Bbl weber (econobox?)  "Nicky"
LR...quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised!     

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 09:26:17 -0500
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Steering box installation

Hi all

I have just installed the new steering box into my rover rebuild.  During 
this process, I had to replace the vertical support bracket, the toe well 
(most of it anyway) and the steering box (CF my notes on checking the oil 
level in the steering box).  I attached the bracket to the chassis and front 
of toe well so that the bulkhead was straight and at a right angle to the 
frame.  Then I reattached the steering box support bracket and finally the 
steering box.  

Here's my question:  The manual says don't strain the steering column when 
reinstalling it.  I did move it over slightly to keep it from resting against 
the side of the opening in the bulkhead and attached it to the bracket in the 
dashpanel.  HOW much is too much when reinstalling this? 
If any pressure is too much can I move it over by placing washers between the 
bracket and steering box to move it over?

Thanks

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring MD 21020
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 09:23:52 +0100
Subject: Re: rust treatments

I've been a little slow on understanding the value of Waxoyl. Can 
someone summarize what it does and when to use it? Thanks

--
Gerald
Massachusetts, U.S.
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 09:28:39 -0500
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Exhaust systems

Next problem:

I am interested in people's impressions on regular exhaust pipes and muffler 
versus stainless steel exhaust systems.  Is it worth the extra expense?

Nate Dunsmore
Ditto with above
dunsmo19@us.net

------------------------------

From: SACME@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 09:48:18 -0500
Subject: A cheap heater for your Ser vehicles

On 16 Mar 1996 David Place said:
>Today I broke up my 77 GMC STX Van.  In the rear was a nice heater that 
>is controlled from the front of the vehicle.  Before I took it to the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>speeds and off.  It is quite small and it doesn't make a lot of noise.  
>You might take a look in the local auto wreckers for a similar heater if 
>you want to add a little luxury for next winter. 

I see in my wholesale marine supply catalog a "Red Dot auxiliary marine
heater designed to operate directly from the engine cooling system.  Heaters
mount either on the floor or thorugh the bulkhead.  2-speed motor provides
adjustable air flow.  Single unit puts out 25,000 btu's/hour and lists for
$156.58; double unit puts out 36,000 btus/hr and lists for $219.92.  Both are
12 volt."

If anyone is interested, I can get more details such as dimensions, etc.,
also can provide discount off list to fellow Solihull lump owners.  e-mail me
direct, unless posting is of global interest, so we don't waste digest
bandwidth.  Thanks.  

Doug Scott
2 ea. Series III and hoping to see the BB list grow and prosper.

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 07:08:57 -0800
Subject: Re: rust treatments

Waxol  consists primarily of rust inhibitors in a wax base.  It is used as a
barrier to moisture and to st9p rust.

It sprays better when warm.  I warm mine up in a pot of water on the stove
untill the wax melts then take it outside & spray it.  With the proper hose
sprayer you can use it to coat the inside of the LR frame by feeding it
through the drain holes.

After I finished the bodywork and repainted my TR3, I sprayed it inside the
closed off areas over the paint as additional protection.  

Waxol does shring when it drys can fissures can occur.  Its best to spray two
or three times with a week or so inbetween to let the sprayed Waxol dry.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 07:14:35 -0800
Subject: Re: What to drive in the Caribbean

On Wed, 13 Mar 1996, IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS) wrote:

>There's only one true vehicle for island cruising: the indominable Morris 
>Moke. Just a step up from a golf cart and certainly as well appointed, 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>to Mini owners. Everybody in? CHARGE!!! Be sure there aren't any holes in the 
>surrey top, hard to explain a nickel-sized sunburn.

Also great for terrorizing exclusive New England golf course patrons....:)
Mind if we play thorough!  At 70 mph..........
That'll teach them to base membership requirements on national origin and 
religon (not that I would want to join anyway).
Oh, what fun my days of youth.

Eric

------------------------------

From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 08:34:43 -0800

>Land-Rover-Owner List 
>Subject: RE: Zen and survival
>> Which vehicle do you choose? Why?

Chris said,>
>I would choose the Disco.   My reasoning is that although the Series is much
>easier to work on and will run on about anything, you won't be able to
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>More advice from "the dry ice kid"
>Chris Fisher  '73 88 Series III
>------------------------------
Hi, In answer to Chris Fisher,
I have had very little trouble finding lutch,brakes,filters,bearings,seals,
piston rings, etc.in the US,at American parts houses. Besides the 6-8 Land
Rover suppliers.IE:British Pacific and others,
Regards,
Bob Bernard
 __________________________________________________
|>>>>>>>>>>>  bobnsueb@maxinet.com   <<<<<<<<<<<<<<|
|Robert and Suzanne Bernard -  Paradise, California|  
|'69 88 SW Sherman, '60 88 P/U Stubby, '51 80 Nelly|
|__________________________________________________| 
>finding a donor car for those parts...  No matter what you chose, eventually

------------------------------

From: CrankIt@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 12:38:26 -0500
Subject: Re: rust treatments

In a message dated 96-03-17 10:17:21 EST, you write:

>Waxol  consists primarily of rust inhibitors in a wax base.  It is used as a
>barrier to moisture and to st9p rust.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>sprayer you can use it to coat the inside of the LR frame by feeding it
>through the drain holes.

Thanks for the information it is helpful.  Can it be sprayed on over the
undercoating that came from the factory on a D-90 or do I need to get the
surface down to metal?

Gene

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 19:20:14 +0100
From: janjan@xs4all.nl (Jan Schokker)
Subject: Tech questions SIII 2.25 Petrol

Hi,

I have two questions, concerning fresh air and sparks. Any input is greatly
appreciated.
When cleaning my airfilter I found out there was only 0,3 litre of oil inside.
After cleaning the gaze filter with petrol it took a little less then a 
litre to fill 
the filterbowl to the mark. Now, a couple of months later the top part of 
the inside 
of the Zenith carb is covered with a thin greasy black layer. There is some 
oil in the 
rubber hose from the filter to the carb too. Is this normal? Should I put in 
less oil then suggested by the manual? Or is this because I drive shorter 
distances and use 
the choke more often in winter?

Some time ago it was neccesary to adjust the contact breaker gap in a 
parking lot
far from home (ok, 8 km) without feeler-guages. The engine was pinging, but 
started
immediately and ran fine. At home I checked the timing. Ignition was about 
15 degrees 
BTDC! I guess this meens that I can safely set the timing a little before TDC. 
According to the manual you should set it at TDC for the 8:1 CR engine, but 
in the
latest issue of LROI I read that Turner Engineering recommends 3 degrees BTDC.
As far as I know this gives you a little more power and efficiency. I can 
use both.
What do you all set it to?

Thanks, Jan.
janjan@xs4all.nl
De Woude, the Netherlands

------------------------------

Subject: Land Rover Toy news
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 96 13:48:45 -0500

Andy and I went of to the local Toy and Collectible show today. We 
thought we would get there reasonably early, in the hopes that Vacuum Man 
Dixon and his side kick Gobs O Cash Ted Rose would be late.

No such luck. We arrived at about 15 minutes after opening time to see 
Dixons mobile wreck (109 SW) in the parking lot. We consoled ourselves 
that he could not possible spot or buy evrything in sight.

What a shock, Dixon and Ted bumped into us within minutes of being 
inside, and proceeded to show off their booty from their bulging pockets. 
Well they had scored some nice items , but none of us were tempted by 
some very big ticket items. I would have loved to pick some of the stuff 
up for fellow netters but the money involved was silly. I have put some 
examples out below.

BTW if you are interested in Toys of Land Rovers etc then drop me an 
email note 'cos Vacuum Man Dixon has nearly got his act together on the 
mailer for the toy lovers ( i think it will be a close race between that 
and Christmas!!)

Mint Boxed Daktari Gift set in Corgi, box slightly damaged $170

Mint boxed Corgi Flying Club 109 and trailer and plane set I think he 
wanted about $95 a good deal.

Range rover Dinky brown with box real nice shape, about $85

Saw a 12b Matchbox mint boxed for $50 silly money if you ask me.

Must go, Mrs needs to use the phone, so I must off the modem.

TTFN

Robin

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

From: Xavier541@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 15:18:01 -0500
Subject: Repainting

I'm interested in repainting my '173 SIII.  How much should I expect to pay
for a quality job?  Are there any shops with experience in painting Rovers in
Oregon or the Northwest? 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 21:18:58 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Brake repairs questions

So today I finally got around to repairing the front brake on my SI 107". It 
took so long because I stupidly ordered the new wheel cylinder from the UK, 
and the supplier one way or the other took about three months to deliver, 
and then forgot the bleeding screw (I only mentioned that twice, though, so 
it's probably my fault). 

First question: How does one *really* remove the brake shoes? The springs on 
them are so strong I could not get them off. Finally I used a wrench on the 
brake shoe and pulled it off the rear side of the cylinder (not where it 
rests on the piston), and that allowed me to get the spring off the anchor. 
I damaged the edge of the brake lining, and I was afraid I might break the 
brake shoe - there must be a better way?

The main problem I encountered, however, was totally unexpected. The 
cylinder I had to replace was the right hand front bottom one (the piston 
had seized, and the bleeding screw was broken off). I got the old one off 
without major problems. The new one was a little different, but it fit. 
However, I tried to reconnect the steel brake tube to the cylinder for about 
two hours and could not get the screw to "take". Luckily I am extremely 
frustration tolerant (mostly because my portfolio includes data processing, 
so I have to be in order to survive), or a certain SI would have gone up in 
flames there and then. Finally in desperation I unscrewed the steel tube 
from the top cylinder, threaded it out through the bottom hole, screwed it 
into the bottom cylinder off the anchor plate, threaded it back into 
position (which took a little coaxing) and then took only about ten minutes 
to screw it into the top cylinder, mostly because now I could see which way 
the tube had to be pushed to be vertical to the cylinder. There *must* be a 
better way to do this! These cylinders were not designed by Lucas (or were 
they?)! 

The Eezibleed I borrowed from my local guru worked like magic, BTW, even 
though the SI reservoir does not win any prizes for accessibility.

So next weekend we will adjust the brakes (still pulling to the right), and 
try and get the black paint off the wheels to expose the original 38 year 
old grey. Also see if the new exhaust fits.

Grateful for any advice

Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 21:18:51 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Overdrive

Ben wrote:
>So now I have the Overdrive on my work bench.   To make matters more
>interesting my OD manual has gone missing.  So I started taking it >apart.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>the ball bearing out.  And nothing else is giving.  So does anyone else
>know how to proceed from this point?   

if all else fails and you have access to a fax I could fax you an LROI 
article on overdrive repairs. Let me know.
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 21:18:54 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Zen and survival

You know, the Austrians and particularly the Viennese have this 
preoccupation about death, and funerals, and it has been around for at least 
300 years. One's funeral is a major event, and the only problem people see 
in arranging it as grand as possible is that they might not be there to 
enjoy it in person (while 85 % of us are Catholics on paper, the actual 
believers are not all that numerous). Many here want what is known as "A 
schene Leich", or A Real Nice Funeral with Pomp and Circumstance that the 
Neighbours will Talk about for Years to Come.

Now let us assume our planet is going to be hit by a comet real bad. That 
would not just give us a nasty jolt, but would also get a lot of smoke and 
dust and steam in the atmosphere, blanking out the sun for a number of 
years. Survival would be extremely unlikely in the face of sub-zero 
temperatures, dying vegetation and dying wildlife (some people think that's 
what happened to the dinosaurs a while ago). By the time the weather returns 
to normal, your car would have run out of fuel for sure. So the fact that a 
series car is easier to repair does not really matter, except if you finally 
want to do that complete restoration you have never gotten around to (do not 
order from John Craddock in that case, they take forever to deliver). 
Anyway, chances are good you would sooner or later die in or close to your car. 

And if that happens, I want to go in Range Rover, since it is the most 
prestigious of the cars we are given a choice of, and comes closest to the 
"schene Leich" that is our ideal!

And why not an *extremely nice* Series car? Well, for one thing the heating 
in the Range Rover is much better as long as you have fuel. Also, you should 
not use unleaded in a Series since it ruins your ehaust valves, and most of 
your donor vehicles would have unleaded in their tanks. Also, the 
archeologists finding my body in its aluminium coffin might be confused by 
the date of the vehicle.

And why not a Discovery? Easy. Disco steering squeeks at low temperatures.

BTW, there *is* a comet coming up (C/1996 B2 Hyakutake). Supposed to beat 
everything since 1556, larger than (but not as bright as) the full moon. 
Closest to earth on March 25 at 15.3 million km/a little less than ten 
million miles. A good pair of binoculars is recommended. Since it will move 
very fast (remember, it's Japanese!) photography will be a problem. I can 
not give you the times for the USA, but it might make the papers/TV since 
the Republican primaries are more or less over now. (All comet info 
shamelessly stolen from Peter Kutschera and Herbert Raab.)

 
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 12:30:12 -0800
Subject: Re: rust treatments

Gene,

Keep the factory undercoating on your D90.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 12:36:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Tech questions SIII 2.25 Petrol

According to my manual, which is for pre-SMOG cars you set the timing 3 deg
BTDC.  The series III (at least US spec) has 2 pointers on the timing mark.
 One is TDC & one is 3 deg ATDC.

Since I have a series III pointer & pully on my "60 engine I set mine at 3ish
deg BTDC by approximating the distance between the TDC & 3 ATDC marks on the
other side.

I would recomend following the manual for your model car to keep it legal.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Overdrive 
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 14:47:39 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <bulk.24477.19960317121948@Land-Rover.Team.Net>you wrote:
  
> if all else fails and you have access to a fax I could fax you an LROI 
> article on overdrive repairs. Let me know.

	Which issue?  (I don't recall seeing that article and I have most of
the LROI since 1992)

	It's is a very odd feeling to be driving at ~45 mph, hit the clutch,
reach for the OD lever and find that it isn't there.

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 09:46:39 EST
From: James Carley <carley@manly.civeng.unsw.EDU.AU>
Subject: Re: Series III Gearbox problems

Alan wrote

>Over the last week or so, first gear has become harder and harder to select
>when at rest, buts its ok when changing down, on the move from 2nd to 1st.

>2nd gear has also started to "crunch" since the problem with 1st gear started.

My guess is a clutch problem. Clutch is not fully disengaging and/or
pilot bearing/bush in the flywheel is dragging.  The clutch master
and slave cylinders are a common problem and easily replaced.

I had a similar problem in a Toyota Hilux 4WD I bought many years ago,
before I could afford a LR 110.  I got it cheap 'cause of this problem
and thought I was up for a new gearbox, but the problem was solved
by a new clutch and pilot bearing.  I used to have to switch the motor off
to get it in 1st if I'd already stopped.
James Carley
Water Research Laboratory
University of New South Wales
Sydney, Australia

------------------------------

Date: 17 Mar 96 18:39:02 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Subject: Re: Coolant leaks was Re: Series Tech questions...

>the grill to cut down air flow.  Once the engine gets warm carefully examine
>the radiator, and all the hoses including the heater hose for leaks.  
                                 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yes !
I've come across many a Series Landy (including my own) who lost substantial
amounts of coolant liquid via rotten/leaking heating pipe hoses, especially
the little 'S' - shaped thingies attached to the heater. Since they will only
start to leak only when the engine is hot and the thermostat has opened,
allowing water to flow into the heating system, and pressure in the cooling
system has built up, the leaking coolant will usually evaporate before being
able to be noticed. As soon as the engine is turned off and cools down,
no leak! If no other obvious causes can be found, try replacing those hoses,
just on a hunch. It might work (did for me, at least).

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 00:09:26 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Brake repairs questions

lopezba@atnet.at wrote:
> First question: How does one *really* remove the brake shoes? The springs on
> them are so strong I could not get them off. Finally I used a wrench on the
> brake shoe ......

My technique is to use a big screwdriver as a lever to pull each shoe off the 
piston and forward in front of the piston. Then both springs will be contracted 
enough to make removal simple. You have discovered the damage that can occur to 
the linings by using a wrench!:-(  So you won't do that again.:-)

Don't ask me to explain exactly how to use the screwdriver. You will have to 
determine the best way to lever the shoes - explaining it in words would be too 
much for my overtaxed brain! And, anyway, I am aching after removing my gearbox 
today.
All I have to do now is get the replacement in, and hope that it is OK. Need a 
new seatbox, though. The old one is full of large corrosion holes - particularly 
the stowage box. Why on earth did Solihull have to stick a steel box to an alloy 
seatbox?

BTW, I had thought of removing the transfer box first to make removal of the 
transmission easier, but the manual said I needed service tool no x335888998... 
(or similar) to extract the main shaft, which is retained with a 'c' clamp. Can 
anyone tell me: is this true, or will it come out with simple force? Is any real 
difficulty encountered in removing the transfer box? Moving the whole unit around 
all the time is quite hard without assistance, and it might ease my task in 
replacing the box this week.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 19:36:36 -0600 (CST)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Diesel Flywheel

I had a call from someone in Ontario who wanted a diesel flywheel. He 
lost a lot of teeth on his.  I have a couple here.  Is there any 
difference between the years on this item?  The one I have is about 12 
3/4 " across and has screw type studs sticking out.  The petrol doesn't 
have the screw threads so I assume I have the right one.  On the side 
there are two markings, something like 16 deg. and 18 deg. and another 
thing that says EP.  Does this sound like a regular flywheel?  It came 
out of my diesel ser II. vehicle so I know it is diesel, but does a IIA 
for example take a different flywheel.  I noticed that no dealers in N.A. 
list a flywheel. A few list replacement ring gears for the petrol but 
nothing for the diesel.  Are they that hard to find.  Does $50 seem fair?
I once sent the manifold to someone who told me it didn't look standard.  
I didn't know there were differences between these things on the diesels 
so that is why I am checking this time.  I know every nut and bolt on a 2 
1/4 but I really don't know diesels at all.  P.S.  Can anyone give me any 
info on the rally being planned for south Minnisota for around June this 
year.  I would like to go.  I have hundreds of parts I would like to flog 
off for somethings I actually need like an OD or lamp covers etc.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 02:12:16 UT
From: "Theodore S." <Theodore_S@msn.com>
Subject: RE: WAIT A MINUTE

No!  You are very wrong in what you stated and suggested in your message 
below.  First, the series III, which the Stage One V8 is based on, did not 
evolve until the fall of 1971.  Second, the actual 109" Stage One V8 itself 
was not developed until 1979.  So I ask you this:  How in the HELL do you get 
a perfectly legal  "Stage One V8" by using parts that are based on a pre-1969 
Land Rover?  Are you saying that it is legal to mislead potential customers, 
who may not be as well informed as some of the readers of this list/digest, by 
selling them a hybrid of pre-1969 Land Rover parts that you claim and pass off 
to be an actual 109" Stage One V8?  That is exactly what you are doing, Sean.  
You are ripping consumers off-BIGTIME!  Your business practices are misleading 
and fraudulent.  I will look elsewhere for a vintage Land Rover, Thank you!

- Theodore Sawyer

----------
From:  Atlanta67@aol.com
Sent:  Thursday, March 14, 1996 11:20 AM
Subject:  RE:WAIT A MINUTE

With all due respect to any of those with different opinions. Renewed
Traditions does NOT import illeagle vehicles to the United States of America.

I will expound in brief: It is completely legal to restore a pre-1969 Land
Rover, it is perfectly legal to do mechanical upgrades to a pre-1969 Land
Rover, it is perfectly legal to do cosmetic upgrades to a pre-1969 Land
Rover. It is perfectly legal to take every appropriate mechanical piece off
of a Stage 1 V-8 and apply them to a pre-1969 Land Rover.Then once you have
upgraded the interior and front end you have a PERFECTLY LEGAL STAGE 1 V-8. I
understand the problems people have had in the US with people trying to sell
them D110 and D90's. We do not import true D110's and D90's. We can and do
build vehicles to D110 and D90 spec, but again all pre-1969.

We have been doing business in England for 10 years and export vehicles to
over 17 countries. We average around 50 vehicles a month out of that
facility, and I welcome the inspection of any subscriber to the list and or
any customs, DOT, or EPA employees.

Thank you all for your continued interest and support in increasing the Land
 Rover population in America

Sean Sinkule
Renewed Traditions
(770)-392-1593
E-mail ATLANTA67@AOL.COM
WWW:   http://users.aol.com/atlanta67/renewed.htm

------------------------------

Subject: Land Rovers on the telly
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 96 20:57:36 -0500

For anyone living within the viewing bounds of TV Ontario here is a heads 
up. Thursdays at 7pm there will be a show called fragile nature showing 
the training of four vets in the UK. This includes learning to drive a 
Land Rover!

TTFN

Robin

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 18:51:51 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@mail.comox.island.net>
Subject: Re: t-box

>And, anyway, I am aching after removing my gearbox
> today.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> all the time is quite hard without assistance, and it might ease my task in
> replacing the box this week.
> David Olley

Hello Dave,
The transfer box intermediate shaft is generally easy to remove. This as 
you know gives access to the nuts holding the box to the gearbox. A large 
screwdriver or a pry bar should nudge the shaft loose. The flat stock 
secured beside the shaft on the exterior of the transfer case is a 
retainer that fits a slot in the intermediate shaft. Remove the retainer 
and put the screwdriver or pry bar in the slot. Remember the case is 
alloy so be careful. The shafts are not generally very difficult to move 
so you should have no trouble.

Good luck with it. Cheers, Greg

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 19:17:08 -0800
Subject: Fuel filters

My engine was running very poorly and idling like a poor actor in a
protracted death scene.

I did all the normal stuff, ie a full tuneup (adjust valves, new plugs, new
plug wires, new distributer* with new points, pull the top of the carb
(Rochester) check float valve, sedimate bowel, set floats, pull main jet &
its pedistal & blow air through them, replace fuel filter).

The car ran better but still was low on power and idled very rough
 Puzzling over it some more, I noticed my new fuel filter was clogged.

My fuel filter is mounted over the valve cover next to the carb.  When I
disconnect it, its easier to reach the carb (clean) side.  I undid that moved
around to the other side of the car and removed the filter from the hose
going to the fuel pump.  

What happened was that the crud slid back down the hose.

This time, before I put the new filter back on, I pumped the pump 3 or 4
times using the hand lever to clean out the line.  I put the new filter on
and the engine ran smooth as can be.  The old new filter was on for one week,
and evidently clogged almost immediatly.

I think from now on I'm going to hand pump the pump to flush out any crud in
the hose before putting a new fuel filter on.

* The reason for a new distributer is that the housing broke on the old one.
 There is a collar cork gasket that sits just below the distributer clamp in
the engine block hole for the distributer shaft.

The person who put it in (not me) didn't get it in properly and there was a
section sticking up.  That met the distributer clamp was sitting crooked and
not clamping to the entire distributer housing.  After adjusting the timing
 a few times, the part of the distributer housing that the clamp clamps to
broke.  Hense a new distributer and clamp and cork collar gasket. 

 Since the spark plug wires were about 4 years old, I also got a new set of
genuine LR spark plug wires from British Pacific.  This was the first time I
ever had a set of genuine plug wires.  They are superior to anything I have
seen or used.  I think I'll stick with genuine LR spark plug wires in the
future.

Learning by doing and wishing I didn't have to learn so much

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 22:35:37 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Toy news

On Sun, 17 Mar 1996, Robin Craig wrote:

> No such luck. We arrived at about 15 minutes after opening time to see 
> Dixons mobile wreck (109 SW) in the parking lot. We consoled ourselves 
> that he could not possible spot or buy evrything in sight.

	No such luck.  We quickly spotted every Land Rover in the place,
	as well as all of the other Dinky, Matchbox, Corgi et al toys
	there.  

> What a shock, Dixon and Ted bumped into us within minutes of being 
> inside, and proceeded to show off their booty from their bulging pockets. 

	:-)

> Well they had scored some nice items , but none of us were tempted by 
> some very big ticket items. I would have loved to pick some of the stuff 
> up for fellow netters but the money involved was silly. I have put some 
> examples out below.

	Some very nice mint boxed Corgi stuff, perfect condition, but
	starting at $150, it was just a little silly.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 01:19:55 +0000
From: John Cassidy IV <rovah@agate.net>
Subject: Anyone in West Florida?

I'm going to be in the Sanibel Island area of Florida for the next week.  Any 
list members down there?  I'd like to get out and see somebody else's Rover 
for a change!

Cheers!  John Cassidy

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Series III Gearbox problems
From: <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:25:42 +0100

Hello Alan Logue,

I had the same problem a few months ago and it seemed to be a 
clutch-problem.
So I say check your clutch, cyclinders and fluid!
It may help a lot!

Marc Rengers
Groningen, Holland
mr@grant.media-gn.nl

   #=====#          #=========#         
   |___|__\___      |____|__|__\___    
   | _ |   |_ |}    |  _ \  |   |_ |}
   "(_)""""(_)"     "-(_)"""""""(_)" 
                                  
 1977  88" III HT    1987 110" StaWag 
    Petrol               Diesel  
   23-76-XB             RH-12-PF

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Coleman Fuel
From: <mr@grant.media-gn.nl>
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:32:54 +0100

Here in Holland they sell the Colemans for use with unleaded fuel. Quite 
handy because you can get it almost everywhere in Europe!

Marc Rengers
Groningen, Holland
mr@grant.media-gn.nl

   #=====#          #=========#         
   |___|__\___      |____|__|__\___    
   | _ |   |_ |}    |  _ \  |   |_ |}
   "(_)""""(_)"     "-(_)"""""""(_)" 
                                  
 1977  88" III HT    1987 110" StaWag 
    Petrol               Diesel  
   23-76-XB             RH-12-PF

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 03:26:49 -0600 (CST)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: waxoyl, or otherwise

There are commercial shops here that advertise they do Waxoyl, but I 
haven't seen it for sale retail. There is also a rust treatment shop here 
that does Rust Check treatment, for which it makes grand claims, and this 
stuff is also for sale at Canadian Tire stores.
A 350g spray can of the stuff costs about CDN$7, and one can give the 
frame innards a pretty good soak with the stuff. Two of the larger 
tins should be enough for inside, outside frame, bulkead, and door 
frames. It's a pinkish, penetrating-type 
oil that creeps and creeps, and the makers claim it "kills corrosion on 
contact", and is better than other treatments because it penetrates every 
little crevice and drives out water. I've been using it inside and 
out, and it's got to be better than nothing. Exterior use needs twice a year 
shot, if one follows label recommendation. I've lately been given my 
*brand-new* rear crossmember shots of it since the black paint is eroding 
like crazy in our briny conditions thanks to excessive road salting. Is it 
available in U.S. or elsewhere, and does any one else have an opinion on it?
I also like Loctite's Extend - awesome stuff! Any experience with it?
And what about using chainsaw bar oil?

Regards,

Mark Perry 
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada 
1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop 
An adventure every time you drive it... 

------------------------------

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