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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 09:09:33 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: Re: Repainting

On Fri, 15 Mar 1996 Xavier541@aol.com wrote:

> USA and wonder how much I can expect to pay for a quality job.  Does anyone

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> have suggestions about finding a shop with experience and knowledge in
> painting Land Rovers. 
If they can paint a BMW they can paint your Rover....if it isn't stripped 
down to bare alum.  it's no big deal...same as anything else.  IF you 
went down to the birmabright you just opened up a whole new can of 
worms.  Just find a shop that does good work and give them the proper 
paint codes and let them do their thing.

Russ

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 09:08:54 -0700
From: sportspart@lexicom.ab.ca (Sportscar Parts )
Subject: gypsy

I have a 1958 AUSTIN GYPSY 4X4 I WOULD LIKE INFORMATION ABOUT THIS TRUCK
PARTS SUPLLIERS ETC. TRUCK NEEDS WHEEL CYLINDERS, REARS ARE MISSING 
ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
I ALSO HAVE A 88" SERIES 2A FOR PARTS
TODD CATHCART

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 09:32:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Coolant leaks was Re: Series Tech questions...

I missed the earlier part of this thread so my appologies if I'm going over
old grounds.  I'm assuming that the original question is the person is losing
water and doesn't know why.

>> Check the vicinity of the water pump bearing and seal. 
>> Leakage of a failed pump from the bearing area is not 
>> uncommon and may only show up at first glance as a
>> drip  somewhere on the oil pan.

> That's what I'm afraid of. I can't see well enough behind
>  that fan to tell.   Maybe if I get underneath and wait for it
>  to drip on my face.

When the engine is off and cool, reach your hand down along the underside of
the front of the pump.  If you hand stays dry its not leaking.  If you hand
comes away  wet the front seal on the pump is leaking.

If your radiator cap is bad, the radiator will cheerfully spout out water whe
it gets warm.  And of course with a litle less water, it will get warmer
faster and spout out more water faster.  My MGBGT used to specialize in this
kind of behvour untill I bought it a new radiator cap.  If you do not have a
coolent recovery system, you may want to put one one.  They do help when it
gets hot.

Fire up the engine.  Set the hand throtle to about 2500 RPM idle (or adjust
your idle screw if you have a series III.  Place something over the front of
the grill to cut down air flow.  Once the engine gets warm carefully examine
the radiator, and all the hoses including the heater hose for leaks.  

carefully remove the radiator cap standing away from the radiator cap &
holding a hot pad when you take the cap off (don't forget to wash the hot pad
afterwads).  There may  be a gush of hot water. Please take every precaution
not to get hit by hot water gushing out.
 
If there doesn't seem to be any pressure released when you open a hot
radiator the pressure cap might be bad.  

After the cap is off and you are sure no (more) water is going to gush out,
peer into the radiator.  Water should be flowing .  You should not be seeing
bubbling.  If you see bubbling like a small inner tube leak under water or
more you have a opening between one or  cylinders and your cooling system.
 You will need to pull the head.

If you have not yet found anything obvious, do a compression check.  You can
not have good compression all the way arround and have a cracked head, or bad
head gasket.

Good luck

TeriAnn

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 09:49:01 -0800
Subject: Re: super-chargers?

>  Does anyone have any information regarding super-chargers 
>  for a1996 4.6 HSE?

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

>From the point of someone with a 2-1/4L engine in a 109 I'm floored by the
question.

But I think time will solve your problem.  I believe that I have read that in
the next couple of years there will be a top of the line version of the Range
Rover offered with the BMW 12 cylinder engine.  I would suggest that you do
not hang supercharger kluges in your car but keep it as close to new looking
as you can so you can get maximum resale value and trade it in for one of the
12 cylinder BMW powered Range Rovers.  You may have an easier time finding
BMW high proformance parts that trying to find Rover high proformance engine
parts.  I think you are all ready there for Rover V8 high performance.

Civilly yours

TeriAnn

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 10:11:57 -0800
Subject: Re: rust treatments

Allan 

I gather that you are in the US.

You can order Waxol for Moss Motors in Goleta California 800-235-6954

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 10:29:39 -0800
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: More on block heaters

Looking through an old copy of Business Week I came
across a nifty block heater made by Schatz Thermo
Engineering of Munich.  They make a block heater
that stores heat from the motor coolant in salts 
sealed in a thermos type arrangement.  I guess
the phase change of the salt allows a tremendous
amount of latent heat storage.  When you want
to start the car, you switch the thing on for
about 30 seconds.  A pump circulates the coolant
through the device and presto! a hot motor.
The article mentioned a price of $500 Am and
that Saab and VW were looking into using
it.  It was claimed that the thing would store
heat for up to a week!  I wonder if the rapid
heating would lead to undue stress on the 
engine?

Found Canadian addresses for Webasto and Espar
heaters.  However *nobody* has heard of Zero
Start/Stat.

Keep warm

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 14:34:30 -0500
From: Allan Smith <smitha@mail.CandW.lc>
Subject: Re: rust treatments

TeriAnn - many thanks for the number. Actually I'm in St. Lucia (the lc at the 
end of my address) but our main auto supply store is NAPA. I don't know anything 
about their products, and how they compare with Waxoyl. Hammerite want over 100 
pounds to send me 10 litres from the UK, so I'll check the CA number in the hope 
that they can do something a bit more reasonable.
Allan

------------------------------

From: ChrisF6724@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 14:56:55 -0500
Subject: RE: Zen and survival

> Which vehicle do you choose? Why?

I would choose the Disco.   My reasoning is that although the Series is much
easier to work on and will run on about anything, you won't be able to
mail-order those necessessary parts for it (how many do you see in a day vs
Disco).  At least with the Disco, you'll stand a much better chance of
finding a donor car for those parts...  No matter what you chose, eventually
you'll have to replace the clutch, brakes, fuel filter, (you know the things
that will go bad with time)...  Actually, you'll be best off (in America) if
you could get your hands on (God forbid) a Jeep Scrambler (I'm so sorry, but
it has space & uses CJ parts....)  Jeeps (&parts) are everywhere....

More advice from "the dry ice kid"
Chris Fisher  '73 88 Series III

------------------------------

From: Xavier541@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 15:36:06 -0500
Subject: Repainting

I am interested in repainting my 73 ser III.  I live in the Pacific Northwest
USA and wonder how much I can expect to pay for a quality job.  Does anyone
have suggestions about finding a shop with experience and knowledge in
painting Land Rovers. 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 15:39:18 -0500 (EST)
From: John Pertalion <ap12536@xx.acs.appstate.edu>
Subject: Re: super-chargers?

> >  Does anyone have any information regarding super-chargers 
> >  for a1996 4.6 HSE?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> >From the point of someone with a 2-1/4L engine in a 109 I'm floored by the
> question.

	Well, how about a supercharger for a 2-1/4L engine?  Of course, 
I'd like to install one to improve the gas mileage, not the power curve. :) 
 
John Pertalion	
AP12536@XX.ACS.APPSTATE.EDU
Boone, North Carolina

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 13:35:56 -0800
From: Blair Gillespie <Gillespie@thegrid.net>
Subject: Re: super-chargers?

As far as I know B&M offered a kit for the 3.5 and 3.9 litre motors. At one
time I looked into it for my Range Rover but living in Ca. makes it a little
difficult. My S 111 could use one as well. At 03:39 PM 3/16/96 -0500, you wrote:
>> >  Does anyone have any information regarding super-chargers 

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>John Pertalion	
>AP12536@XX.ACS.APPSTATE.EDU
>Boone, North Carolina
Blair

------------------------------

From: "S. Vels" <svels@mail-server.dk-online.dk>
Date:          Sat, 16 Mar 1996 22:26:05 +0001
Subject:       Re: super-chargers?

>Does anyone have any information regarding super-chargers for a 1996 4.6 HSE? 

>Any leads you may have will be appreciated. 
Didn't find much this evening. Here's something to get you
started.

Vortech
http://www.eden.com/~jme/z28/vortech.html

Eaton
http://www.counterparts.com/cdb06.htm

Bell
http://www.tristero.com/sa/business/bell/super.html
BELL ENGINEERING GROUP INC.
               11723 WARFIELD DR.
               SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS 78216
               TEL: 210-349-6515
               FAX: 210-308-6147 

Couldn't find anything on Sprintex though.
Good hunting.

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 19:02:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Real Rovers can too have coil springs

In a message dated 96-03-15 22:59:38 EST, you write:

>Not Bud, though,
>rd/nige
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>opener on it somewhere....find it, fill us in on how it works, and we'll
>think about it....but seatbelt buckles won't do-even Discos have them....

And I guess therein lies the entry fee, if you can open a bottle of England's
Finest on it somewhere...you're in!  What do you think guys? Fair enough?

John, 94 D90, Still Searching,  

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 19:01:23 -0500
Subject: Re: visit to Nashville

In a message dated 96-03-15 22:59:39 EST, you write:

>I'll be staying at the Shonney's Motel across from the Opryland 
>Hotel.

Tom, could you say hello to Elvis and Billy Monroe for me...

John.

------------------------------

Subject: Land Rover signs
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 96 18:28:59 -0500

I was tidying through the basement ? office tonight (Kind of like 
painting the Forth Bridge, Hey Mike Ruth you explain that one) and came 
accross some interesting stuff that i have stashed away for ron, later 
on (get it) and came on some Genuine Land Rover event signs, Shut up 
Dixon, I know where they came from!

They are 12" X 12" and yellow with a green arrows and Logos on them. 
There is only one of the "start" and "finish", a couple of "caution" and 
a few"use low range" ,  "use 1st gear" etc.

As ther is a little white border to the signs they could be photocopied 
to be 11" one way and trimmed down from legal to 11" the other way.

The original signs are made of cardboard and have been used.

Curiously someone forgot to make left turn signs. You see the arrow signs 
direct you to the right with the Land Rover logo above. To make left turn 
signs they stuck 1994 La Ruta Maya An Expedition Of Discovery Decals over 
a bunch of them to make left turn signs.

After the event was over I got the course designers, Tim Hensley and 
Jonathan Slavin to autograph a bunch of them.

I was wondering what I should do with them all, anyone have any ideas?

I thought of letting some orignals go, and making copies of the worded 
ones available so that others could copy them and make use of them at 
Land Rover type events.

Let me know your thoughts

Rgds

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Mar 96 00:49:25 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: NH Safari .... 

To all those that came on the Safari, thank you. I apologize for all the 
pulling, digging, cutting and bridge building but hey, that's off-roading in 
winter for you !  

Still, on the bright side, we cleared the track for the spring and we will 
certainly be going out again. Next time, it will be muddy, I guarantee that 
!!!! 

We will start putting together another run for late April, taking in the first 
track we "cleared" today, and then going on to some more "adventurous" tracks. 
I will post ASAP.  We will probably still have to clear some down trees, but 
that is all part of off-roading.

If those of you that came really think about it, we all used or heads to solve 
problems, bridge building. We all helped extricate vehicles, that's teamwork. 
And will all helped and shared equipment and ideas when needed, that's all 
part of a group of enthusiasts working together, so I hope you all learnt 
something today and  hopefully had a good time. 

One thing I want to point out to anyone who may be reading this, we had 2 
Discoveries, 2 Range Rovers, 1 Defender 90, 8 Series vehicles. A great cross 
section of the product line, it didn't matter that my  RR got stuck, everyone 
helped, it didn't matter if the Series vehicles got stuck, we all pulled. 
Shame the digests don't work that way !!!!!

Once again, thanks to everyone who took the time to come along. I hope you 
enjoyed yourselves  and will come again, when the snow has gone ? 

Mark   
  

------------------------------

From: iharper@afm.org
Subject: Getting home
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 96 20:13:41 EST

Does anyone have any (inexpensive) ideas on how to get a non-functioning 
LR from the East coast (Sackville NB) to Ontario (Stratford)?  To get it 
mobile would require more time than I have to spare, as it would involve 
working on it in situ, and I would like to know if anyone has ever done 
this economically (apart from the obvious answer of towing it up- I have a 
Golf Diesel so I would have to rent some sort of vehicle with some power!)

Any suggestions would be helpful...

Thanks, Ian
iharper@afm.org

---
 This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated.

------------------------------

Date: 16 Mar 1996 20:48:26 -0500
From: "Sean McInerney" <smcinerney@mail.nrgn.com>
Subject: Killing brain cells and mor

 Killing brain cells and more
------------------------------

>Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 15:33:35 PST
>From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
>Subject: Re[2]: Fuel mixing

>Also I believe white gas is also known as Naptha which is also >known as
Zippo lighter fluid. Haven't tried Coleman fuel in the >Zippo yet
though...Naptha is also handyfor cleaning adhesives, and >other solvent based
products off of somewhat delicate surfaces, >like car fininshes, plexiglas
(perspex), and other plastics. Will >remove duct tape residue from ANYTHING!.
JFYI Have fun, and >don't breathe too much of it...

TOO TRUE....Naptha aka Napthalene aka BENZENE is a known carcinogen (isn't
everything).  I think I am correct here....remembering from the time I spent
assisting an uncle in the antique furniture refinishing/restoration business.
 All sorts of nasty things to inhale there.

           C = C        ASCII Benzene.....I gotta get outa here....
        /         \                     ....that being work on the weekend
      C             C
      \\         //
          C  -  C

  -Sean 'huffin fumes' McInerney

------------------------------

Subject: Fairy/Superwinch Overdrive
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 18:36:55 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@ridgecrest.ca.us>

	About a week ago my overdrive started to overheat and emit
sounds that I thought were a bearing going bad.  (And I had just topped off
the gear oil 30 minutes previous).  So I minimized how much I drove  my Rover
(no nasty sounds with the overdrive disengaged).  Today was a nice, warm,
sunny day, so I pulled the overdrive and slapped origional gear and back plate
back on.  (being that the Rover is my only vehicle, I need to keep it mobile).

	So now I have the Overdrive on my work bench.   To make matters more
interesting my OD manual has gone missing.  So I started taking it apart.
But now I'm stuck.  I took off the observation cover and removed the slector
shaft and fork.  I also removed the black plate, 3 snap rings, various
washers adn the first thrust bearing.   Now I'm stuck.  I can't seem to get
the ball bearing out.  And nothing else is giving.  So does anyone else
know how to proceed from this point?   

	(For the mendo folks, this will not effect the trip this weekend.  My
Rovers is otherwise fully functional.  Just now my top speed is around 50mph
instead of 65mph.) 

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith----------bens@ridgecrest.ca.us----------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 RidgeNET Admin------------------Science Applications International Corporation
 
"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entries from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 18:30:05 -0800
From: Greg Moore <gmoore@mail.comox.island.net>
Subject: Re: Getting home

> Does anyone have any (inexpensive) ideas on how to get a non-functioning
> LR from the East coast (Sackville NB) to Ontario (Stratford)?

Five or so years ago I shipped a 11A SWB from Ontario to B.C. by freight 
train. It was winter, Saskatchewan was cold, no heater in the truck... 
You get the idea. Anyway it cost me about $1200 (Oouch!!) if I remember 
correctly. I rationalized the expense by taking bus for 67 hrs ($120) and 
thinking about the cost of food/lodging for two weeks on top of fuel for 
3000 miles.

For what it's worth. Greg

------------------------------

From: 73363.427@compuserve.com
Date: 16 Mar 96 22:10:16 EST
Subject: Re: Series Brake Shoes

>> Has RN offerred to replace your drums as well???  Dammit, they should (at 
LRNAs expense).  They were, afterall, kind and honest enough to point out 
that the "genuine" shoes were of the wrong camber (and this does, of course,
assume that you weren't putting 88 brake shoes on a 109, or vica versa)-
they're probably willing to admit that scoring to your drums could result
as well. Surely, they can get reimbursed from LRNA. <<

There was only one drum that had been scored, and that one was barely
noticeable. I really didn't feel like it was necessary or I would have asked. I
am sure the RN would have replaced it.

I don't think LRNA really has anything to do or say about Series vehicles. I
think RN has to deal directly with Solihull on things like this. I could be
wrong though

     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 16-Mar-1996

------------------------------

From: Harincar.2@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 21:16:05 -0600
Subject: Frame Up Rebuilds

What we are missing is that there is a difference between doing a   
'restoration' and a maintenance thing like replacing a frame. There is a   
difference, although the steps may be the same.  I am not doing a   
restoration. My goal is to replace the frame and bulkhead and fix the   
hydraulics and suspension, and do as little else as possible.   
Unfortunatly,  there are always things that are damaged in the process,   
like my master clutch cylinder (see the log for that one), and there are   
things that just make sense to do while you have it apart (like bushings   
and motor mounts). I'm also trying to fix SPOTs as I find them, like the   
cludged exhaust hangers and stuff. Lots of bolts will get replaced just   
because if they are rusted I'm just grinding them off. Saves time that   
way, too.

I, like Dave, am trying to use used parts where possible, like springs,   
to save cash. They are better than whats there, and while I know I may   
need to do them again in a couple years, maybe then I can afford new   
ones. I'm not even going to paint the axles.

There is *a lot* of things I'm not doing. Not replacing the tie rods, or   
the ends, even though they're rusted. They seem to be holding up and as   
an interem I'm doing boots... I'm not doing anything to the motor or   
gearbox (except fixing the 4WD selector shaft spring)... The front axle   
desparatly needs seals and new balls... I could really use a new wiring   
harness... And a zillion other little things.

My plan: $2500 and 20 weeks. That includes everything: replacement frame   
and bulkhead, transportation, lots of parts, and unforseeables. Its gonna   
be close but I think I'll make it.

And, I'm not doing this for fun. I had no clue what I was doing when I   
bought this truck, and I'm paying the price. I paid way too much for it   
to begin with, thinking I was avoiding this type of junk. I realized that   
the only way I'd ever save the money I invested was to fix the frame and   
bulkhead. So here I am. I really just want to take the damn thing off   
road this summer. I had two 4x4s in the last 4 years and I've never been   
able to go off road with either. Thats the sob story part :-)

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: Harincar.2@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar-MS)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 21:16:12 -0600
Subject: re: Zen and survival

TeriAnn wrote...

>> Which vehicle do you choose? Why?

> Sooo Tim trying to start another flame war among the ranks?

No No No No No! :-) I was pretty sure most Series owners would pick a   
Series. But I wanted to see what others would say (even though I only   
posted to LRO, no x-posting, ya know).

I was curious to see if anyone would opt for the RR. I, for one, would   
seriously consider the Disco. I left Defenders out on purpose.

Lets toss in another curve. There was a scene in the book where one of   
our heros, driving a brand new '77 Blazer, comes upon a spot where an   
earth quake has split the road and there is a drop of about 5 feet to   
where the road starts again. Just a sheer cliff, then the road carries on   
as normal. This goes on for as far a the eye can see in each direction   
(i.e there is no going around and you don't want to turn back). Knowing   
you'd have to navigate this, do you change your choice? :-)

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 21:47:44 -0600 (CST)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re:A cheap heater for your Ser vehicles

Today I broke up my 77 GMC STX Van.  In the rear was a nice heater that 
is controlled from the front of the vehicle.  Before I took it to the 
shredder, I took out the heater with all the wire harness intact.  It is 
going to be placed in the rear of my 88 Ser IIA.  It is a standard GM 
heater with its own fan and I found that it had a water cutoff under the 
floor of the van to boot. The nice thing about this heater is that it has 
the inlet and outlets on the bottom so it can sit on the seat box in the 
back with the hoses running under the vehicle.  It is quiet and has 3 
speeds and off.  It is quite small and it doesn't make a lot of noise.  
You might take a look in the local auto wreckers for a similar heater if 
you want to add a little luxury for next winter.  For those looking for 
diesel parts I have lots I want to part out.  From block to rods and 
pistons.  I have a good pump etc.  Give me an E-Mail if you have any 
needs.  I need a canvas top for my frame and some light protectors if you 
want to trade.  Does anyone have an overdrive that needs a rebuild that 
they feel they can't handle.  I would like to buy or trade and I can fix 
almost anything you might have.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 19:49:12 -0800
Subject: Re: super-chargers?

----------------------------- Begin Original Text --------------------------

	Well, how about a supercharger for a 2-1/4L engine?  Of course, 
I'd like to install one to improve the gas mileage, not the power curve. :) 
 
John Pertalion	
----------------------------- End Original Text -----------------------------

John I looked into it a couple of years back.  The story I kept getting is
that they caused problems 7 the engine didn't live long.

How about a 4.6 L Rover V8 in a series car? ;*)

TeriAnn

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 19:57:54 -0800
Subject: Re: re: Zen and survival

----------------------------- Begin Original Text ------------------------

Lets toss in another curve. There was a scene in the book where one of   
our heros, driving a brand new '77 Blazer, comes upon a spot where an   
earth quake has split the road and there is a drop of about 5 feet to   
where the road starts again. Just a sheer cliff, then the road carries on   
as normal. This goes on for as far a the eye can see in each direction   
(i.e there is no going around and you don't want to turn back). Knowing   
you'd have to navigate this, do you change your choice? :-)
----------------------------- End Original Text -----------------------------

Tim
piece of cake,  You get the shovel & pick out of the car & dig a ramp.

You DO carry a pick & shovel right?

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 22:13:11
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: WAIT A  Minute how about kit cars(LR)

Hi All,
 I had a friend how loved to build cars from bits & parts of other cars
 as custom cars.  He learned that anyone can build a limited production 
car(250 or less) & title it if they have bills for the parts used.
 So here is the question.  If you purchase a legal LR disassemble it 
transport it & reassemble it as a kit car titled as your personal
 production of one.  Is this legal?  or would it make the government nuts?

This food of though or what?

Regards,
Rob Davis_chicago.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 23:18:45 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: The right tool...

To quote Mr. Natural, "The right tool for the right job."

*Finally* finished welding the rear frame crossmember - I've had three 
weekends since Christmas when I didn't have rain, snow, ice or the flu - but 
I turned to removing/fitting the spring bushings this weekend.  One half-way 
removed itself by taking out the bolt...then it bloody well fused itself in 
place.  A 2' breaker bar and a 4' cheater bar wouldn't budge it. 800 ft. 
lbs. at least.  *Burned* the bugger out with a torch.

Anyway, I have made a tool to remove bushings (at least those where the bolt 
comes out) and refit them.  Took a pointed .401" Parker shank and welded it 
into a cheap (7/8"??) 1/2" drive socket.  The air hammer refitted the 
bushings in about 4 seconds.

In my quest for penetrating oil to douse on one of the bushings, one of the 
ROAV lads that works at the shipyard gave me a bottle of *the absolute best* 
penetrating oil in existence: methyl salicylate, AKA synthetic oil of 
wintergreen.  Makes the Rover smell great, too.  Between that and the orange 
GoJo hand cleaner, the garage smells like a garden these days....
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 23:18:42 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Alternative fuels

Alan Richer wrote:
>I wonder what the effect of the Coleman would have here...it knocked like
>hell, and made the mower almost impossible to turn off....

>What exactly is the wretched octane of that stuff anyway?

I'd guess *zero*.  Octane rating is basically the resistnace to detonation,
AKA knocking.  Coleman fluid is just naptha - pure "gasoline" with no anti-
knock compounds at all.  Mike added it to give some "heat" to the five
gallons of kero he was burning in his petrol 2.25.

Coleman *is not* "white gas" or unleaded.  It does not have any of the 
detergents, additivies, lubricants that motor fuels have.  The "white gas" 
sold by Amoco stations in the '60's and '70's  was basically unleaded... but 
it still had additives.

However, many folks do routinely add small amounts of diesel - or better yet 
- Marvel Mystery Oil (don't you just *love* that name?)- to petrol to free 
rings, etc.

BTW, when I was in Tunisia in the Peace Corps, my job was renovating water 
wells (most of them built by the Romans 22 centuries ago).  We used these 
weird Italian pumps to pump out the wells first.  They had *two* fuel tanks. 
One for petrol to get the bloody things going, then you'd switch over to 
diesel for the actual pump run.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 23:39:00 -0500
From: "Jeffrey L. Goldman" <jgoldman@xensei.com>
Subject: Bellcrank Levers and Air Filters...

        Greetings everyone. I've been away for too long trying to get set up
with a new ISP (my university, quite rudely, ceased my previous access one
day without telling me). My '71 IIA (2.25L petrol) is still waiting for
brake parts before it can become road-worthy, and the weather in New England
has come up to a tolerable level (working on the Rover in sub-zero weather
has its disadvantages). Ahhh, to the point...
        The previous owner was a clueless chap who got a friend/mechanic of
his to replace the truck's aging Rochester carburettor with a new Rochester.
The owner never got the machine to run, and he attributed it to leaves and
sediment in the fuel tank. So, he replaced that, as well. Unfortunately,
things were still not working properly, so he sold the truck to me. I took
the Rochester off, and replaced it with a 34ICH Weber, which has been great
so far (though I haven't actually driven with it). It seem to me that the
one month old replacement Rochester is incorrectly jetted and was
incorrectly oriented. This would make sense considering the truck would
stall while trouncing on the accelerator, and it would lose power going
around corners and up hills (this was discovered in the three days I drove
it up and down my street (Rover was unregistered). So, I have a Rochester
available.
        The problem I'm running into now is this. In order for the throttle
linkage to operate the Rochester, the previous owner took off the bellcrank
lever, drilled small hole through the smaller, pivot lever, and ran the
Rochester off that linkage. This means I can't connect the throttle assembly
to my Weber (which has a different orientation). I am in desperate need of a
bellcrank lever and control rod! They're such minor items, yet they are
absolutely necessary to operate the vehicle. Does anyone with a parts Rover
have them??? If you follow the control rod connected to the carburettor,
it's that rod and the lever that connects to that rod. Aside from the brake
items, which should arrive on Monday, the throttle linkage problem is the
only thing preventing me from driving my Rover. Now that's frustrating!

        I've heard that there are cartridge-type air filters for the 34ICH
Weber. I'm interested in getting one for on-road use, while maintaining the
oil-bath filter for off-road use. Where can one purchase the cartridge unit?

        Thanks for all the help. I don't think I would have purchased a
Series Rover if I hadn't known of the existence of this list. It's been a
great resource, and I've met some great people. Thanks, and it's good to be
back. I was going through withdrawels :-)

                                                               Jeff-->

Boston, MA   USA	1971 Series IIA
E-Mail: jgoldman@xensei.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 20:55:03 +0900
From: Alan Logue <alan@a011.aone.net.au>
Subject: Series III Gearbox problems

Can anyone help on this one?

Its a Six cylinder 1979 Series III fitted with an A suffix gearbox with
around 50000 km on the clock

Over the last week or so, first gear has become harder and harder to select
when at rest, buts its ok when changing down, on the move from 2nd to 1st.

2nd gear has also started to "crunch" since the problem with 1st gear started.

I have pulled out the selector forks and nothing is damaged. The selector
does not appear to have moved on the shaft either. The ball at the base of
the gearlever is rather worn on the left and right sides - would this be
enough to cause the problem?

Any ideas greatly appreciated!!!!!!!
Alan Logue
Adelaide South Australia

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 11:51:57 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: rust treatments

Allan Smith wrote:
> Hammerite want over 100 pounds to send me 10 litres from the UK, 

If 10 litres of Waxoyl weighs about 11 kilos, then standard parcel post England to 
St Lucia should cost about 80 pounds. 15 kilos would cost 99 pounds. This is a 6 
day service.
The 25 day economy service (surface) costs 41 and 51 pounds respectively.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

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