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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 14:26:11 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: hand cranking winch trick

Matthew Loxton from ZA wrote:
>unstuck, then why would turning it by hand do the trick? Seems like an awful 
>load of work just to get sweaty and risk dropping a spark plug into the dirt, 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>just sit around and use up fuel.
>I do think that wheel mounted capstans are a great idea.

Matthew - the theory, I think, is that you get stuck because your engine 
does not create enough torque at sufficiently low revs, so either the engine 
stalls or you step on the gas and the wheels start spinning, which digs you 
down further. With the crank (and with the spark plugs out so the engine 
does not provide too much resistance) you can create the right amount of 
torque at very low revs (you only get fast revs if your name is Arnold 
Schwarzenegger, and I think he drives a hummer which probably does not have 
a crank). It helps in sand or mud, not when you try to climb over high rocks.

Winches in general, whether hand-operated, capstan or electric, are fine if 
there is a secure anchor for the cable. In some situations (no other vehicle 
close by, no tree, no boulder...) you would need a ground anchor, and very 
few people I know cart those around.

What is a wheel-mounted capstan?

As for your SIII wiper blade, I would try the 
LR Supermarket 
Bridge Industrial Estate, 
Speke Hall Road, Speke, 
Liverpool L24 9HE, 
Tel (UK) 151 4868636, 
Fax (UK) 151 4865986. 
They do not have any SI parts, so I have no personal experience with them , 
but a lot of Series owners here swear by them.

Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 14:26:21 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: SIII cold starting difficulties

Xavier (?) wrote:
>I recently bought a '73 SIII.  In the morning the temp. would be below
>freezing and the battery would barely turn over the engine.  I replaced the
>battery and now the engine turns over but usualy doesn't fire.  After a few
>minutes of trying the battery can barely turn over the engine.  Is my starter
>moter drawing too much ampage or is there another problem?  

Xavier - there should not be any problem with cold starts with your SIII 
(depending on *cold* not being *too damn cold* like below zero F). At normal 
temeperatures below freezing the engine should come to life after a second 
or so. Are you sure your choke works properly? (Are you sure you pulled your 
choke? You did not mention it.) Apart from that I would guess your timing is 
off, but your description is too scanty.
Sorry
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

From: smitha@mail.CandW.lc
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 09:33:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Joy riders crash-test 90

1

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 08:57:03 -0500
Subject: SERIES WIPER BLADES

To Matt Loxton: I found that the 10" blades for an MGB work fine. They are
sold at most 
import parts stores, or from MG parts houses(Moss Motors, etc.) E-mail me if
you need addresses. I bought some Bosche made ones, very nice, but black
plastic and come 3 to a pack (MGB has three wipers). On the same note: while
most US import junk yards are short on LR you can spend some profitable time
raiding old sports cars for useful parts, such as: wiper motors for late SIIa
& III, starter motors (AH 3000 or old Jags), wiring loom bits, connectors,
instrument bulbs, some lens, etc. etc. The rubber bumper MGB uses a nice
mech. oil pressure gauge. I removed and painted the silver bezel ring black.
Cheers. Andy Blackley

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 08:58:34 -0500
Subject: Boneshaker Seats

I recall a thread a while back about seats for Series vehicles. I bought some
high back seats from Bat Fastard a few years back. They came to about $200 w/
shipping from U.K. Cheap in every respect - you get what you pay for. The
base and back were made out of plywood. Prob. good for one accident then
snap. The seat base was rock hard. I used a circ. saw w/ a shallow rip and
opened a rect. hole in the base. I removed the v. dense foam therein and
replaced with nice soft dunlopillo from original seats. Then I installed the
metal base pan from the original seats. Ahh. The seats were an ergonomic
improvement. Looked good in caviar cloth.  Moral: Buy the best you can
afford.

------------------------------

From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 08:59:57 -0500
Subject: MORE ON SEATS

I saw in the Oct. 95 LROI that a 100" inch LR Swiss Army prototype had used
MGB seats. I never tried that one. They would be crash worthy, having a steel
frame and headrests. Also parts and new seat uph. are readily obtainable. The
seat base sliders should be  bolt-in with some fiddling. The bulkhead would
prob. interfere with reclining range however. Seat height might put ones
crotch into the steering wheel. Referring back to previous post re: junk
yards, one might be able to find a junk seat for cheap and test fit before
doing anything irreversible.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 07:44:06 -0800
From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Subject: series a/c correction

Whoops,
I meant to say that the compressor is on the right side (I erroneously said
left side)of the engine in both cases.(looks like the same compressor)
On the 109, the battery tray is not there and the air cleaner is moved forward.
This was the factory installed version,(I think it may have been installed
separate of the factory, but for the factory as it was on the invoice).

Boy! it sure is easy to say something wrong, even when being careful.

Later, 
Bob B

------------------------------

From: Gene <europart@techline.com>
Subject: RE Bridging ladders
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 08:06:08 -0800

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Brownchurch has some heavy duty sand ladder that are rack mountable and aren't to heavy. They are available through Rovers North.

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------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 11:08:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Waving and frost heaves

In a message dated 96-03-01 16:56:42 EST, you write:

Its when the water from melting snow seeps into and under the pavement.  Lo
>and 
>Behold, the water freezes again, 'heaving' the pavement into something other

>than the intended flat area.  Makes for very interesting driving with a SWB
>LR.
And it also started the old saying about the snow belt:  "There are two
seasons here, winter, and road construction."

------------------------------

From: Gene <europart@techline.com>
Subject: Bulletin Board for selling Rover Items
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 08:16:55 -0800

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To those of you that are interested, Euro Parts has added a bulletin =
Board to our page http://www.techline.com/~europart. This service is =
provided free of charge for anyone who is interested in selling any of =
their spare or unwanted parts. You may also fly an ad there to sell a =
vehicle if you want.

Gene
Euro Parts
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------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 08:19:00 -0800
Subject: Re:  LR drivers licence

On Fri, 1 Mar 1996, smitha@zeus.candw.lc wrote:

>>Even better, what you really need is a St. Lucian licence. It is a 24-page 
>booklet with pages for annual stamps and a bunch of illustrations of 
>policemen in pith helmets with their arms in various significant positions, 

Sounds like something I used to get into bars when I was in College...bouncers 
aren't much for reading foreign languages :)

Eric

------------------------------

From: ChrisF6724@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 11:25:07 -0500
Subject: RE: AC in Series

With all the talk of Air-Conditioning or swamp-cooling a Series Rover, I had
a thought that might provide "low-low tech" cooling.  You could just go out
and buy a block of dry ice and place it on the tray in front of the
windscreen vents.  As air passes over the ice, it would cool, giving you
cheap AC on really hot days.   Of coarse you would have to be moving to get
any affect.  You'll probally also want to make some sort of tray holder to
protect the dash tray...  Any reason something like this won't work?

Chris Fisher   '73 LR 88 Ser. III

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Mar 96 14:17:03 UT
From: "Matthew Loxton" <mloxton@msn.com>
Subject: Sometimes rangies are series

Tom added a smiling barb to his answer... <snip>.. Supprised this post was 
allowed on the list. Oops, sorry, couldn't resist. ;-)...<snip>

My post was all about turbo and diesel, now why dya think I would post this on 
lro and not plushbutt, especially risking a hot-foot from TeA? Well, my 
experience says that LRO's would be the types to think of alternate engines 
etc, while *most* Rangie owners IMO are not likely to be fooling around with 
such matters. On the RRO list you wont see much about level-3 maintenance like 
stripping down frames etc. This has a lot to do with age too, I have a S-III 
but use a mazda to work because (a) Yellow Peril is a bastard to park in those 
tight cornered lots, and he has rather high ambient noise, so if my cell phone 
rings I would be as likely to notice this as I would the screams of a 
traffic-cop whose whistle lanyard gets caught in my stoves brace, and is being 
towed alongside. So what to do? A mazda is a very *nice* and obedient servant, 
but not the thing that my dreams are made of. A Rangie is an obvious choice, 
but at a kings ransom, not affordable to me. This is why an 82 model is 
appropriate.

Think of it not as a fancy 4x4, but like Martina Navratilova in hiking boots, 
not quite an S-III, but a close relative.

Matthew S-III 8 weeks to go
ZA		82' Rangie, 4 weeks to go(?)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 02 Mar 1996 18:38:40 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: RE Bridging ladders

Gene wrote:
> Brownchurch has some heavy duty sand ladder that are rack mountable 
> and aren't to heavy. They are available through Rovers North.
>      (....plus a lot of ascii garbage as an Attachment)

The Brownchurch items will be Sand Ladders as you say. The enquiry was, 
I believe, for Bridging Ladders. The Brownchurch items are unlikely to 
allow bridging. Most Sand Ladders are unsuitable for this purpose as 
they do not have sufficient stiffnes, and will bend (the aluminium ones, 
being very old and brittle, will break).

I do know a company in the UK who has developed and tested a set of 
sand/bridging ladders which are reasonably light in weight and made in 
two pieces to enable easy stowage in the vehicle. As far as I am aware, 
they have not yet put them into production. I think that they would do 
so if they thought there was sufficient demand.

There is another UK company, NSC Design Ltd, based in Scotland, who 
manufactures bridging ladders among other special products for off road 
use. They can be reached at:

NSC Design Ltd
1 Mid Road Industrial Estate
Prestonpans
East Lothian
EH32 9ER
Scotland       Tel: +44-(0)1875-815400

Contact: Nick Cole

Hope this helps.

-- 
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 14:04:26 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Frost heaves

Dave asks about frost heaves

 - A frost heave is were a spring or other water source flows under a paved 
road.  When it eventually freezes, it lifts or 'heaves' a bump all the way 
across the pavement.  Sometimes, these can get rahter massive.  In fact the 
*only* time I've had all four wheels of the Rover off the ground was in 
Vermont.  "Frost heave, eh?  How bad can it... *DAMN*!"  

Keep the shiny side up....
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: Rod Steele <rsteele@sparky.transdata.ca>
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 14:09:51 -0500

unsubscribe land-rover-owner

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 02 Mar 1996 11:19:20 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: RE: AC in Series

At 11:25 AM 3/2/96 -0500, Chris Fisher <ChrisF6724@aol.com> wrote:
>With all the talk of Air-Conditioning or swamp-cooling a Series Rover, I had
>a thought that might provide "low-low tech" cooling.  You could just go out
>and buy a block of dry ice and place it on the tray in front of the
>windscreen vents....  Any reason something like this won't work?

 Sooner or later you would feel light headed (or lighter headed :)  and
 pass out from the lack of oxygen.  Dry ice is frozen carbon dioxide, CO2.
 Of course if you planned your restops prudently, say every 5 minutes,
 you might make it across town.

 Cheers,
                          ______
 Michael Carradine        [__[__\==                     Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900             [________]                        Land-Rover 4x4
 cs@crl.com  ___________.._(o)__.(o)_____...o^^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88)
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 14:47:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Frost heaves

Sandy;  I think you have just described Rt. 128 leading up to Rovers
North..was up there about 2 weeks ago and hit one one of those heaves.. think
they should call them launches, 'cause that's just what I did, good thing the
roof was on otherwise I'da been outta there.
Rgds
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 14:52:08 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Sightings

Dear All,
        To steal a heading from the Rovers North Newsletter, I have a few
Sightings, I thought some of you that get the Fox Network might want to
check out a show called Nowhere Man. Last week they had a good 10 minutes
of screen time with the actors running around the jungle in a pretty nice
SIA 109 5 door. Nice to seem them actually use the correct vehicle, not a
CJ 5 like Hollywood usually does. Check it out if you can. Also saw a nice
SIII 109 5 door on the Planet X show on ESPN. They were using it to film a
Mountain Bike feature film. Well back to the shop, Jeff Aronson hit a horse
last night and crashed and rolled his 88. Were beating it back into shape
so he can get back on the road. S
        BTW, I don't think people DEMANDING anything, or threating legal
action has any place in this forum. Take your shit somewhere else!!!! If
you don't agree, then disagree, but what makes you think the rest of us
care about who said what, and what legal action you may take, or what you
demand. Did you just get out of the third grade or what.
        I'm glad to see some good Series questions on today's list. I like
the RR Disco crowd, but it was a little one sided conversation IMO.
See ya!

Mike Smith, East Coast Rover Co.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 14:05:44 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Frost heaves

> Sandy;  I think you have just described Rt. 128 leading up to Rovers
-
It's any road in the Northeast this time of year. The best fun 
comes during mud season, which will start pretty soon if it 
hasn't already. That's when you can go off-roading without leaving 
the road.
Some years back it got so bad on our road that the town grader and 
several dump trucks got stuck. Yeehah!
Boy, I sure miss those dirt roads of the Green Hills.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 15:35:35 -0500
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Snubbed by a Series

I saw two series vehicles this week and waved at both.

First was on our way back from Jackson NH and passed a series LR. I waved
and the driver waved back.  We were in our GMC van.

This morning I passed a SIII SW in the next town on a 4 lane main street.  I
flashed my lights and waved and got no response.  As we passed I looked over
and the driver was focused on a spot 10 feet in front of his hood.  He never
noticed me.  I was in the Range Rover this time.

About a month ago I passed a nice (they all are) D110 with VT plates coming
out of the Walmart in Claremont NH.  Had work/driving lights mounted to the
front of the rack.  I was in the wrong vehicle this time so I did not bother
him as I overtook him.

I need a bumper sticker for the van so people will know "My other vehicle is
a.....".  Does anybody know of any?

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover (snubbed by a series this snowy morning)
Newport New Hampshire
603-863-7883

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 02 Mar 1996 12:52:50 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Roughmobile (was: Aluminium Welding)

At 02:26 PM 3/2/96 +0100, Peter Hirsh <lopezba@atnet.at> wrote:
>Good Landrovering (come to think of it, I don't even know whether I should 
>talk to you. Are you a Series owner? Well, as long as you have Birmabright 
>parts...)

 Peter,

 Does this roughmobile model qualify?______________
                                                   \
                          ______                    \
 Michael Carradine        [__[__\==                  \  Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900             [________]                  \     Land-Rover 4x4
 cs@crl.com  ___________.._(o)__.(o)_____...o^^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88)
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

>SI 107in S/W
>Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

 Can't wait to see it.... the celebrations, and the Rover.

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 13:24:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Frost heaves

On Sat, 2 Mar 1996, rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) wrote:

>Keep the shiny side up....

Shiny?  I thought this was now the Series list  :)

Eric

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 18:32:33 -0500 (EST)
From: Alanh <alanh@dhp.com>

subscribe lro digest

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 16:04:09 -0800
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: Waxoyl

Where do I find Waxoyl?  I have tried all the regular auto stores
and met with a resounding *Huh?*

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 16:09:24 -0800
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: EFI for the 2.25l

Just looking through the Car Design and Tech. Junw 1992.  Saw an
article on the Weber Alpha system EFI.

- throttle body injection
- the bits fit onto Weber adapted manifolds
- computer tuned for individual engines "mapped"
- costs about 1300 pounds for a 4 cyl.

It seems like this could be the ideal swap into a LR? You could 
even keep the old Weber carb for emergency reattatchment.  Hmm,
lets see, get a Turner engine, and Alpha system and get a very 
expensive motor with 3/4 the power and 3x the expense of 
an Iron Duke!

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

------------------------------

From: SACME@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 19:17:27 -0500
Subject:  Waving and frost heaves

On Fri, 01 Mar 96 07:51:20 PST
"Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> writes:
Subject: Waving and frost heaves

>What exactly is a "frost heave"?

Dave "Mr. Curious" B.:

Frost heave is caused by the expansion of water as it freezes, the same kind
of expansion that bursts water pipes when they freeze.  The degree of
expansion of water that has penetrated through the surface of a road into its
base fill depends on many variables, but the upshot is a road surface that is
like the "moguls" that skiers deal with.  If you are in a climate that
doesn't have frost heaves, be thankful. If you drive a Land Rover, or at
least a Series LR, be VERY thankful.  With the coming of Spring and the thaw,
the roads settle back down to a more or less level surface, but the damage
done by the frost heave (cracks, potholes, etc.) remain to be fixed and the
chiropractors are busy fixing sore backs.  Hope this bandwidth was helpful.

Happy Rovering!

Doug (Bouncing in Maine) Scott
2 ea. Series III, and charter member of the BB    

------------------------------

From: SACME@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 19:17:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Flimsy Discos

On Fri, 1 Mar 1996 09:37:33 -0500 (EST)
Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> writes:
QUOTE
	Most utility poles are designed to break at the bottom, and just
	about all modern cars have crumple zones.  That your Series III
	doesn't have a crumple zone doesn't matter.  You make use of 
	theirs...  :-)  Think of it as the car designers nod to older
	vehicles.  They have designed their modern offerings (burnt?)
	to collapse, sacrificing themselves, rather that cause damage to 
	an older, potentially rarer vehicle.  I feel that this is very
	noble of them, and gives me the assurance to drive my Series IIA
	vehicles all the more (albeit, the 88 without the log splitter
	mounted up front...)
UNQUOTE (I still don't know how to make those ">"thingies automatically)

Dixon:  You have restored my confidence.  I'll forget about renting the
airbag/ABS/crumple zone equipped rental car for the trips to Boston, and
instead concentrate on more comfortable ear plugs.  Thanks. <;)>

Doug (Thought I had an excuse to drive in comfort) Scott
2 ea. Series III, and charter member of the BB

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 16:39:21 -0800
From: uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca (Clinton D. Coates)
Subject: Safari door for tailgate swap?

I have a tailgate and guillotine that I am trying to replace
with a safari door.
Anyone want to swap?  The tailgate is pristine except for a dent
right in the middle from the trailer hitch.  The guillotine is
in pretty good shape as well, just a bit of the regular interior
rust.

Otherwise,  does anyone have a decent safari door frame sans
skin and oddments for sale?  I am trying not to have to do a
welding patch job on the hinge side of the door post.

PS: I am in Kamloops/Victoria

Thanks in advance.

--
 __x___x_  /    Clinton D. Coates  uf974@freenet.victoria.bc.ca    
|__|__|__\/__   
|     |   |_ |  *Emerson* 61 lwb pickup.....mostly runs
  (_)"""""(_)"  *If it doesn't leak, its not a Land Rover*

------------------------------

Subject: im back
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 96 20:18:36 -0500

I back from beyond

Rgds

Robin Craig

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 17:39:00 -0800
From: jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us (john hess)
Subject: Dormobile content  and my view of the list

For those of you with Dormobiles, the latest Dormobile Digest reports that
the Dormobile Owners' Club is now a recognized club with the DVLA at
Swansea.  As a result of this, the club is attempting to establish a
registry of Dormobiles to facilitate the re-registering of vehicles saved
from the wrecker.

The club requests that the chassis number of your vehicle and the Martin
Walter number be sent to:

Dave Smith
Grange Cottage
Smeeton Rd.
Saddington, Leics. LE8 0QT

I assume this includes Land-Rover Dormobiles and have sent in my info.

Now, since I'm POSTING SOMETHING WITH LAND-ROVER CONTENT I would like to
voice my opinion.

1)  Use the subject line.
2)  SAY THANK YOU to the person in charge of the list server and subscribe
to those lists you are interested in.
3)  Please try to keep content to Land-Rover material.

Thank you very much,

jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
from home via modem
Land-
  -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and Mazda owner!

------------------------------

From: smitha@mail.CandW.lc
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 21:51:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Waxoyl

>Where do I find Waxoyl?  I have tried all the regular auto stores
>and met with a resounding *Huh?*
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>and met with a resounding *Huh?*
>With all the recent fuss I'm afraid to respond to anything on this list 
because I still don't know the politically correct affiliation for a 95 
Defender 90 that has absolutely no plushness, was built to order, has been 
a long wait since I made the commitment to owning one after using a 
workhorse SIIA back home in Rhodesia (in those days), and can still be 
hosed out without wetting any computer technology. 
But back to Waxoyl - I am in the process of ordering a quantity from the 
suppliers in the UK, Hammerite Products.  I have sent 3 faxes in the past 2 
weeks without a response, but they are always great on the phone. On Monday 
I shall phone and ask what the problem is in responding to faxes from 
remote islands. It probably isn't available in the US so if you want the 
phone/fax numbers, let me know. 
I was actually after Dinitrol, according to an LROI article last year the 
best in the field of rust protection, but my LR agent in the UK, K&J 
Slavin, said it was over-priced and that Waxoyl was the option to go for. 
As usual, the shipping of these kinds of chemicals has all sorts of 
nightmare paperwork so I was directed to the manufacturer for ordering. 
BTW, I have a major problem with rust and salt corrosion in general. I live 
 about 50 feet from a beach facing the year-round trade winds. That means 
year-round salt spray. 
The company also produces what they refer to as a High pressure Continuous 
Action Sprayer, (it is hand operated) Model no 5520/101, which comes with a 
flexible hose for getting into chassis areas.
If no one else gives you the info, let me know on Monday and I'll send you 
the numbers that are presently at the lab.
Allan Smith
St. Lucia

>Where do I find Waxoyl?  I have tried all the regular auto stores

------------------------------

From: Steve Gage/Mycroft <Steve_Gage/Mycroft.MYCROFT@notes.mycrft.com>
Date:  2 Mar 96 21:41:56 
Subject: -No Subject-

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 02 Mar 1996 21:17:30
From: GeorgeEsq@gnn.com (George S. Szydlowski)
Subject: 15"x6 1/2" wheel adapters

has anyone heard about wheel adapters which would bolt to a Series 
III hub and allow the use of an aftermarket alloy.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 19:08:06 -0800
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: PNWTTC Postponed

I spoke with Doug Shipman this morning and he asked me to post the 
following news to the 'net.

The Pacific Northwest Team Trophy Challenged has been postponed.  The 
heavy rains and flooding in the Portland area have washed out sufficient 
bridges and roads in the proposed meet area the the forest service says 
it's not accessible.  Doug indicated that the event originally scheduled 
for May 18th and 19th has been tenatively scheduled for the 
weekend of September 14th.  The new date is not firm.

That's all the information I have.  If you need any more I'd suggest you 
call Doug (503-661-3220)

Cheers,

Jeremy

94 D90
65 109 SW

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 19:51:28 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Frost heaves

On Sat, 2 Mar 1996 ASFCO@aol.com wrote:
> (snip)..was up there about 2 weeks ago and hit one one of those heaves.. 
> think they should call them launches..

I agree they are more like launches, and it is the back seat passengers 
that heave!

-David

------------------------------

From: BDaviscar@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 22:56:43 -0500
Subject: Re: New Land Rover . MOB read don't delete

In a message dated 96-03-01 12:57:26 EST, you write:

>Still on thing will always remain, they will more comfortable, more reliable

>and just if not more capable then Series vehicles.  What a joy to see a CB40

>out performing a S2 or S3 on the trail !  
Mark

1) What is this CB40?

2) IT Takes TWO to Keep the hate "C**P" up on the list and it sounds like you
are ONE of the Two Needed.

3) ALL Series owners DO NOT HATE The "newer" LRs!!!!!!!

4) I AS A series LAND ROVER OWNER WOULD LIKE TO SAY STOP ALL THIS BULLSH_T
(US vs THEM) I REMEMBER NOT LONG AGO SOME POSTS ABOUT US ALL BEING PART OF
ONE BIG BROTHERHOOD 

MORAL:
IF YOU CAN'T SAY ANYTHING GOOD (OR HELPFUL) SHUT UP!!!

THANK YOU ONE AND ALL!

BRUCE    CHICAGO
67 SIIA 88 LAND ROVER   Patches

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 19:56:49 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Waxoyl

Dear Clinton:
It is available from Moss Motors in Goleta, CA. I am sure they have an 
"800" number, but the only one I have at hand is (805) 968-1041.
Cheers,
David

------------------------------

From: BDaviscar@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 22:56:43 -0500
Subject: Re: waving goodbye to series & non-series

In a message dated 96-03-01 13:59:21 EST, you write:

>I'll stay with the uk, au, za lists...they actually have fun and 
>discuss intersting stuff...like Land Rovers and cross-country trips 
>and local legislative issues and friendships and organized events 
>and stuff, without all the flak thrown in.
how do I find them?

thanks

Bruce
e-mail: BDaviscar@aol.com

------------------------------

From: 73363.427@compuserve.com
Date: 02 Mar 96 23:58:09 EST
Subject: Bumper Stickers

I forgot who first mentioned making bumper stickers, but their is a member of
our club (SoLaRos) who has recently started his own graphic arts company, after
several years in the business. He has printed several T-shirts for us, along
with Mugs, decals and other stuff. He is willing to print up whatever we need,
at a very good price. If anyone is interested let me know and I will get started
on it.

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 02-Mar-1996

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 00:00:51 -0500
From: michelbe@login.net (Michel)
Subject: won't start (Series stuff)

Well, hello fellows, my 2.25L is doing a weird thing. Cold start fully
pulled, turn the key, and the engine starts first thing. Then, about half a
second later, it dies and doesn't want to start again, whatever I do: push
the choke back in, swear, pump the gas pedal, swear, pedal to the floor,
swear, and still nothing. Does anybody know why? What do I have to check
first? Remember, it runs for half a second, or maybe a second, I didn't check. 

Thanks

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke (those townships with natural speed bumps Dixon is talking
about), Quebec, Canada

1963 109 Rudolph and friends (not little mammals)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 02:18:32 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: I'm back

>cheers,
>I'm back!
>rd/nige
-

Oh shit! There goes the neighborhood!!  Nice to see yer smilin' face again,
Russ...

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 02:18:38 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Cold Starting

>I recently bought a '73 SIII.  In the morning the temp. would be below
>freezing and the battery would barely turn over the engine.  I replaced the
>battery and now the engine turns over but usualy doesn't fire.  After a few
>minutes of trying the battery can barely turn over the engine.  Is my starter
>moter drawing too much ampage or is there another problem?  
-

Well.. it should turn over and fire right up. Sounds as if you need to do a
complete tune up. Also, what condition is the oil in? If it hasn't been
changed for a while it's probably a bit thick and gummy. 

When you are trying to start the engine are you just cranking until the
battery dies or are you letting it rest a bit? What condition are your
battery cables and connections? Dirty connections at the battery will
prevent power from reaching the starter and wear your battery down faster.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 09:50:00 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Lumiweld (long and technical

Technically-minded readers,
I asked the UK list for help with Lumiweld since none of my sources had a 
reference, and got the following from Mr N J Fuller. Turns out Lumiweld 
stems from the USA, after all! The description is rather favourable. Anybody 
care to use it on the recent unnecessarily painful split of the list?

I would like to thank Nick Fuller for his prompt reply. I am sure the 
following will be very interesting for many of us.

N J Fuller from the UK wrote:
Having been a user of Lumiweld for some years in my home workshop I  would 
thoroughly recommend it every time. Being a dabbler in many model 
engineering ventures , there have been numerous times that a repair or 
renovation is required on some aluminium component.
Components that I have successfully worked on using Lumiweld include:
- Manufacturing model Glow engine silencers , 
- Filling unwanted mounting holes in model Helicopter landing gear  , - 
Reclaiming model Helicopter rotor blade holders , 
- Rebuilding motor cycle cylinder head fins and filling stud holes
  drilled out due to broken studs ,  
- Repairing Alternator  mounting lugs ,
- Rectifying casting defects in model petrol engine cylinder head   casting 
and many more that escape me at this moment.
When my last Lumiweld kit ran out I purchased a clone version called Techno 
Weld which for all intents and purposes , IMHO , does the same job with very 
similar packaging and instructions.

Although I have never seen a direct reference to its use with Birmabright , 
judging by what is mentioned there is no reason why it shouldn't be 
experimented with , obvious caution required if working on panels still 
fitted to one's vehicle.

Have attached  a copy of one of the original reprints sent to me by Lumiweld 
many years ago. Other texts with pictures available but all show basically 
the same .

All The Best
  Nick
110 TD CSW 
1957  SWB  1/5  Scale model and engine  (under construction) 

Reproduced from a reprint sent by Lumiweld. " OLD BIKE MART " issue 16 - Oct 
1986 -

Perhaps, like us, you have seen demonstrators at Classic Shows and Auto 
jumbles repairing broken aluminium components by the 'Lumiweld' process. 
With nothing more elaborate than a butane gas blow lamp, a seemingly magical 
repair is quickly effected and proves impossible to break when a 'Doubting 
Thomas' is asked to try his luck. We asked Bob Robinson of Grand Union 
Products, who import 'Lumiweld', if we could try out one of  his Kits to see 
how practical the process is and, if it really does allow you to repair or 
join aluminium parts in your home workshop.

'Lumiweld' is brought in from U.S.A., where, we are told, millions of rods 
have been sold since 1979. It is claimed to provide a weld four times 
stronger than aluminium and harder than mild steel; it is non toxic, uses no 
flux and requires only a low working  temperature and, as a bonus, it will 
also do its stuff on zinc based alloys including Mazak (Monkey Metal). 

In a true welding process, the operator has to raise the temperature of the 
work pieces to melting point, then, using a flux to prevent oxidation, 
introduce a filler rod of similar material in order to fuse the metal 
together. Controlling the working temperature isn't easy
with aluminium as it doesn't change colour on heating up and great skill is 
needed to avoid melting the parts.

With 'Lumiweld' however, the working temperature is far below the melting 
point of aluminium and indeed, at only 730`F, is very similar to soldering. 
Now, with soldering, you are joining two pieces of metal by introducing a 
dissimilar filler which has a lower melting point than the metals to be 
joined, in other words it doesn't fuse to become a part of the parent metal, 
as is the case with welding; it can't, as the filler isn't a similar 
material (usually a Lead/Tin composition). So how then does `Lurniweld' 
differ from soldering, well, the claim is that (although we aren't given the 
composition of the rod) in use the `Lumiweld' forms a 'molecular bond' with 
the parent metal and is therefore a true weld.

We gave our Kit to a hard-nosed, sceptical, engineering friend and asked him 
to try it out for us. His unshakeable view was that the process was 
soldering, not welding, but he did concede that `Lumiweld' could have a 
place in the home workshop; although in his engineering business he would 
always go for the `real' thing. 

Is it as easy to use as watching the demonstrators suggests? if you follow 
the instructions included with each pack; then the process is quite simply 
within the grasp of anyone who can master soldering (that word again!); no 
flux is used, oxides are removed mechanically by agitating with a stainless 
steel rod (or stainless steel brush, available from the suppliers) through a 
pool of molten `Lumiweld' on the surface of the workpieces. The `Lumiweld' 
itself prevents the oxides reforming and a neat run or fillet can be made 
with the filler rod, which then forms the`Molecular bond'. You can make Lap, 
Butt or Joint welds and a butane canister type of blow lamp or even a gas 
cooker will suffice as the heat source. As the bond is only formed with 
aluminium or zinc alloys it can be effectively used to reclaim stripped 
threads in such materials by drilling out the offending hole and  popping in 
a bolt of the correct thread form; `Lumiweld' run around the bolt then bonds 
to the aluminium but not the bolt, which can be unscrewed from the hole 
leaving a new thread behind it: Again, the low working temperature of the 
operation makes this an attractive alternative to other forms of repair, 
where a complete strip down might otherwise have to be contemplated.  

An Amal carburettor Mixing Chamber in diecast alloy, with a broken mounting 
flange, was neatly repaired with `Lumiweld' making it fit for further 
service and, doubtless stripped threads in carb bodies could be dealt with 
in the manner described above. We did however find one product that defeated 
`Lumiweld', one of the dreaded Best & Lloyd Oil pump bodies; a familiar 
problem to Vintage restorers as they were fitted to so many bikes in the 
Twenties. These pumps are made from a zinc-like material and are invariably 
broken around the screwed oil pipe connections. Try as we might, we couldn't 
get `Lumiweld' to bond with the B&L body material and nor could Bob Robinson 
when we sent it to him. To his credit he returned the  pump admitting 
defeat, but then there must be limits, even with `Lumiweld'! 

Kirby Rowbotham, whose various engineering modifications and carburettor 
reclamation services are well  known and respected in our field, is a recent 
convert to 'Lumiweld' and rang us to say just how impressed he was, after 
trying a  sample following the Bristol Show earlier this year. Rebuilding 
chipped cylinder fins, broken lug bosses on chaincase and gearbox covers, or 
even  cracked castings are all  candidates for home repair with this 
process.  A versatile product then and one which is a useful addition to  
the range of  DIY materials  available today, not a panacea  for everything 
though, but we found the suppliers very helpful and ready to advise on a  
particular application; what's more, as we said at the beginning, they are 
at most of the  major Shows and Auto jumbles  so you have the chance to meet 
them in person. 

End quote from 'OLD BIKE MART'.
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria (officially 1,000 years old this November 1)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 21:40:14 +1100 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: hub reduction

we've been trying to track the hub-reduction kit's manufacturer down,
can anyone help?  Jori Bell had a possible lead
but more info' is needed.

Lloyd

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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