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From: PurnellJE@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 08:11:39 -0500 Subject: Re: Buy-back pogroms (not a typo) In a message dated 96-02-16 08:46:20 EST, you write: >Its surprising the insurance industries would support getting older cars off >the road. The physical damage sustained by such vehicles in an accident is so >much less its incredible. I guess, though, the damage to the occupants is more? >I >don't know. If it is true about insurance companies, I wonder if the answer is in the premium paid for newer vs. older cars. Though a newer car would certainly cost more to repair, it doesn't necessarily mean the same person in a new car would get in more accidents...result: more profit, or at least more capital to invest more wisely than in insurance. :>) John. ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: PurnellJE@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 10:11:13 -0500 Subject: Re: Cupholder Technology...model that Defender 90 application In a message dated 96-02-16 16:12:33 EST, you write: >>What do others do with their drinks in RRs? >I use a cheap (around $5) holder called "Spill Master" I have seen these in >a variety of sizes. Currently, I use the full size one and have it straped >to the top of my center console. >. I don't believe this, you guys in those 'suspenive fancy Rangies are using $5 cupholders. I don't know if you know this, but my Defender, you know, that new "old" Landie, the cheap one with no viscous center diff, and side curtains, the one that leaks everywhere, and is loud, and only comes in a stickshift, and has no tilt wheel or adjustable delay wipers, actually came from my dealers showroom with not one, but two cupholders as STANDARD ISSUE. And the hardest part: THEY WORK and haven't broken on me yet. John. (I know, now I'm gonna spill a latte in my cassette deck and the dealer is gonna say abuse, so no warranty fix...) :>) ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: PurnellJE@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 10:11:11 -0500 Subject: Re: Brake fluid and water/Silicone Fluid In a message dated 96-02-17 06:51:59 EST, you write: >However - am I right in saying that silicone fluid does not attract moisture >and will not start to boil when brakes overheat? (And will not cause >corrosion in your valuable original steel brake pipes?) And what could the >problem be that started all this? >Hungry for more technical/chemical/physical/roverical information >Peter Hirsch I was wondering when the list would get around to silicone brake fluid, as after reading the manual on my Defender where they say every couple or so years "renew the brake and clutch fluid." Peter, you have the advertising claims right anyway. The silicone fluid (DOT 5) is supposed to non-hygroscopic, as opposed to the glycol-ether based "normal" brake fluids (DOT 3 and DOT 4 in the USA). I believe the UK uses the FMVSS 116 (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Std) ratings of DOT 3,4, & 5 ? So you know what I'm referring to? The main difference between the DOT 3 and DOT 4 (hygroscopic, non-silicone) fluids is the DOT 4 has been modified to "react" with moisture and reduce many of the bad effects of absorbing water. Most of the water comes through hoses by diffusion. Thus, the DOT 4 fluid will last a lot longer than DOT 3. Or more accurately, will maintain a higher wet boiling point longer. The wet boiling points (in degress Celsius) for DOT 3,4,& 5 are: 140/155/180. The dry boiling points (in degrees Celsius) for DOT 3,4,& 5 are: 205/230/260. The wet boiling points are most important, as they better represent "used" or "in-use" brake fluid which has been tested after absorbing a set amount of moisture. Let's face it, that is what is in most of our cars right now. The sharp rise in WBP for the DOT5 fluids are significant benefit in extreme braking situations, but more important are the non-hygroscopic properties which means it should last longer. I assume the DOT5 fluids prevent corrosion better because of its anti-water properties, but don't know for sure, only a "makes sense" feeling if there is less water. Anyone have any info on that? Also, I have read that they don't lubricate as well as the DOT 3/4 fluids. A subtle point I also don't understand, and it relates to the corrosion protection issue, is since the silicone fluid is non-hygroscopic, does that mean that less water will diffuse through the hoses and get into the system, or just that the fluid is less affected by this water. By changing over to silicone, you are not altering the hosing, which has its same diffusion coefficient, but you are changing the inside fluid/hose boundary which may act like Thompson's Water Seal on the inside of your basement wall, and effectively reduce the moisture influx. In this case, the corrosion effect would be reduced by halting moisture ingress, not necessarily by any fluid properties. Or if the same amount of moisture enters the system, then maybe the silicone fluid carries it away from the wheel cylinders to the highest point in the system? Does it make chemical sense that water is less dense than the silicone? (I looked but couldn't find densities for the fluid) Because, if the water still enters the system, AND it just sits there in the line/wheel cylinder, why wouldn't those pockets of water boil/vaporize and reduce brake cylinder pressure? Meaning: why is the higher wet boiling point of silicone advantageous if there is still water entering the system? It doesn't react with water like DOT4. I surmise that using the silicone fluid does in fact reduce water diffusion through the lines, and that is its main benefit. Any one else? John. 94 D90, Madtown Wiscososososonsin ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: PurnellJE@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 10:11:08 -0500 Subject: Re: Disco/RR (was enterprise) In a message dated 96-02-16 18:40:42 EST, you write: >We fought back >effectively from the climatecontrolled comfort of the Land Rover Range Rover >4.0 SE locked in the extended-mobility mode. >-Tony OK, I'm sold. Where do I get one? ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 16:05:19 +0100 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Series Owners - New Use for PTO All Series owners: There is a report that a South African company has started making radios called Freeplay that do not require batteries, but will play after you turn= a crank for a while. Now that seems a good use for the rear or center PTO -= I assume your front PTO is already used for the capstan winch. If there is= enough interest, I could get a local company to build the reduction gear and= drivewheel needed for the radio. The report says the radio weighs six pounds, is built like an overstuffed lunchbox and has a tinny (they probably= mean galvanized) speaker. The ideal accessory for our beloved vehicle! The= radio has shortwave, too, so you could listen to the BBC wherever you are.= Apparently Harrod=B4s sells them for 80 GBP each, so it is as expensive as= everything else for our cars. If you are interested in the idea, e-mail me= directly, please. Wonder if they will start making a GPS system with a crank, too? Good rovering Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Sanna@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 11:47:14 -0500 Subject: Re: Disco/RR (was enterprise) John - I guess I should have made it clearer, I scanned in parts of a Pop Science article. Unfortunately I don't own a 4.0 SE. - Tony ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 16:52:34 +0100 From: lopezba@atnet.at Subject: Re: Rotary engines > thought of trying a 6 port Mazda rotary engine? >From what I remember - but this may be wrong from the beginning or not correct any more - rotary engines suffered from low torque at low revs, so you always had to use high revs to keep them happy. This would make them nice for a sports car, but unsuitable for off-roading when you need high torque at low revs. Have you looked at the specs in that respect? Wondering Peter Hirsch SI 107in S/W Vienna, Austria ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Rod Steele <rsteele@sparky.transdata.ca> Subject: series -s.plug leads Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 12:44:43 -0500 hi people, I am wondering which type of spark plug leads are best for my 86in 1954 = SI, original solid (Cu) core leads (not worried about radio reception, = just original performance, or a set of carbon spark plug leads off the = shelf? comments? Thanks in anticipation. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 10:42:49 -0800 From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com> Subject: New Jersey's Stupidity (was "The LRO Daily Digest") That used to be an old trick in these parts to get around the outrageously high cost of car registration in California. Unfortunately California got hip to it, and plugged the loophole. If you have a fulltime job in California, you're a Californian. I'm not sure how that works in places close to the borders where you could work in CA, but live across the stateline. If you work in the Bay Area, LA or San Diego, it's pretty hard to convince DMV that that you're a daily commuter from Oregon, Nevada or Arizona. Yeah, right. Cheers! John '95 Discovery San Francisco, California At 09:05 16.02.96 -0500, Elizabeth Renee Fekete wrote: >To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > * ** * To REPLY send to: lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net * ** * -bc [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)] >Unfortunatly, all the abusive legislation is pushing us at doing that kind of >things! >Elisabeth ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: SACME@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 14:34:34 -0500 Subject: New Jersey Law, Insurance tip In the 02/16/96 digest, Elizabeth Renee Fekete said: >Re: New Jersey Law >There is a solution: have your car registered in another state! All you >need is an adress. Many states are really abusing and taking advantage >of car owners! We should show them that there is a way around. >Unfortunatly, all the abusive legislation is pushing us at doing that kind of >things! A related issue is insurance. We live in Maine, but my wife works 4 days/wk in Mass. When asked by our insurance company where her car is "principally garaged", I gave the seemingly logical and honest answer - Massachusetts. Needless to say, our premium on that car went through the roof, not to mention that the ins. co. wanted her to get a Mass. drivers licence! This prompted me to do a careful analysis of where the car ACTUALLY is garaged during the year. With coming home weekends, vacations in Maine, USAR reserve drills in Maine and the two weeks or so when we swap cars so I can do preventive maintenance on hers, it turned out that her car is in Maine 57% of the year, minimum. I convinced our insurance company and we are back to a sane premium, relatively speaking. Also, re the New Jersey scam and potentially others, how old does a car have to be to be considered an "antique" (i.e., Series cars and older RR's) and exempt, presumeably, from such rackets, with appropriate payment of fees, etc. Or does the"antique" designation/plate, etc., limit the use of the vehicle - mileage, sanctioned events only, etc.? Doug Scott 2 ea. Series III and BB Charter Member ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Stavors@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 17:41:13 -0500 Subject: Re: series -s.plug leads I'm running a 1956 88" with a 2.25 petrol using off the shelf carbon leads with no apparent problems. They tend to be more reliable than copper core ones. ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: MHKINGER@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 17:45:30 -0500 Subject: Electrolysis, Alum Does anyone know of a chemical which can be put on aluminum after it has been wire brushed and cleaned that will stop the corrosion process? I look forward to any advise I can get on this subject. Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Stavors@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 17:57:47 -0500 Subject: Re: Electrolysis, Alum There are some special aluminium primers used in paint shops which slow down the process. It tends to occur where the aluminium comes in contact with another metal (e.g. steel door frames) and can be restricted here by use of a goo between the two metals prior to final connecting (bolts, pop-rivets etc.) like a silicon sealant. ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ofiara@albany.net
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 18:22:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Labrador by Land.........Rover
Greetings:
I am relatively new to the list, but have owned a Series III SWB for
about 9 years. I enjoy the list very much, but sometimes feel that I've
signed on to the Land Rover Mechanics and Machinists list. Does anyone out
there ever go anyplace with their Land Rovers? Well, whether you do or don't
here's an idea.
If you have a Netscape WWW browser, type in "trans-Labrador highway"
in Netsearch. It will take you to a series of Newfoundland related home
pages. Go to the Newfoundland home page. On it you will find a hot link to
the trans-labrador highway, click on it. On this page, there is a discussion
over whether an overland road link on the North American continent to
Labrador really exists or not? Some say it doesn't, some say it does. Read
the discussion, it may get you interested.
My guess is that there is a road that leads from the North shore of
the Saint Lawrence River from around Sept Isles, Quebec, or Baie Comeau,
Quebec that takes you up into Northern Quebec around Shefferville, but at
some point interconnects with a road that leads you to the giant Churchill
Falls Hydroelectric facility, and then onto Goose Bay Labrador. From there
(with prior reservations) you can take a long (couple of days) ferry to
Lewisporte, Newfoundland, travel through Newfoundland, and then take a ferry
to Sydney, Nova Scotia and then through the Eastern provinces of Canada on
the way back. Its a hell of an adventure--the key being reaching Goose Bay
Labrador by Land..........Rover!!!!
Just a note- before this road was carved out (supposedly in 1992)
you had to put your vehicle on a flatcar of a train to Shefferville to get
into this area of Northern Quebec or Labrador.
I have a couple of questions. Has anybody out there ever done this
with a Rover? Please contact me or the list if you have. I've heard that the
first vehicle to cross Newfoundland was a Land Rover, maybe someone has
done the Labrador route. Secondly, maybe Ottawa Valley Land Rovers would
like to look into this more and sponsor a Rover Run to Labrador. You could
call it "Labrador by Land.....Rover."
Linking Ontario, Quebec, Labrador, Newfoundland and the rest of the Maritime
Provinces by Land Rover may give a boost to the spirit of Canadian unity, eh?
The main impediment to the Land Rover enthusiasts main passion is
that the world is getting too developed, too many highways, too many Malls,
too many people. This may be one of the last chances in Eastern North
America to have a little bit of an adventure. (God Forbid, I don't think
having an adventure is illegal yet.)
Feel free to have a list discussion of this run, bring it up in your
club newsletters, and if anybody has done it or plan to with or without your
club let us know. Also, don't forget to try for the "trans-labrador highway"
world wide web listing cited above to read about the things you'll need in
Labrador--mosquito netting, extra gas cans, spare tires, high ground
clearance etc.
Dave Ofiara
88 Quevic Drive
Saratoga Springs, New York
12866 USA
E-Mail:(Ofiara@albany.net)
------------------------------
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From: ofiara@albany.net
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 18:28:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Labrador by Land.........Rover
Greetings:
I am relatively new to the list, but have owned a Series III SWB for
about 9 years. I enjoy the list very much, but sometimes feel that I've
signed on to the Land Rover Mechanics and Machinists list. Does anyone out
there ever go anyplace with their Land Rovers? Well, whether you do or don't
here's an idea.
If you have a Netscape WWW browser, type in "trans-Labrador highway"
in Netsearch. It will take you to a series of Newfoundland related home
pages. Go to the Newfoundland home page. On it you will find a hot link to
the trans-labrador highway, click on it. On this page, there is a discussion
over whether an overland road link on the North American continent to
Labrador really exists or not? Some say it doesn't, some say it does. Read
the discussion, it may get you interested.
My guess is that there is a road that leads from the North shore of
the Saint Lawrence River from around Sept Isles, Quebec, or Baie Comeau,
Quebec that takes you up into Northern Quebec around Shefferville, but at
some point interconnects with a road that leads you to the giant Churchill
Falls Hydroelectric facility, and then onto Goose Bay Labrador. From there
(with prior reservations) you can take a long (couple of days) ferry to
Lewisporte, Newfoundland, travel through Newfoundland, and then take a ferry
to Sydney, Nova Scotia and then through the Eastern provinces of Canada on
the way back. Its a hell of an adventure--the key being reaching Goose Bay
Labrador by Land..........Rover!!!!
Just a note- before this road was carved out (supposedly in 1992)
you had to put your vehicle on a flatcar of a train to Shefferville to get
into this area of Northern Quebec or Labrador.
I have a couple of questions. Has anybody out there ever done this
with a Rover? Please contact me or the list if you have. I've heard that the
first vehicle to cross Newfoundland was a Land Rover, maybe someone has
done the Labrador route. Secondly, maybe Ottawa Valley Land Rovers would
like to look into this more and sponsor a Rover Run to Labrador. You could
call it "Labrador by Land.....Rover."
Linking Ontario, Quebec, Labrador, Newfoundland and the rest of the Maritime
Provinces by Land Rover may give a boost to the spirit of Canadian unity, eh?
The main impediment to the Land Rover enthusiasts main passion is
that the world is getting too developed, too many highways, too many Malls,
too many people. This may be one of the last chances in Eastern North
America to have a little bit of an adventure. (God Forbid, I don't think
having an adventure is illegal yet.)
Feel free to have a list discussion of this run, bring it up in your
club newsletters, and if anybody has done it or plan to with or without your
club let us know. Also, don't forget to try for the "trans-labrador highway"
world wide web listing cited above to read about the things you'll need in
Labrador--mosquito netting, extra gas cans, spare tires, high ground
clearance etc.
Dave Ofiara
88 Quevic Drive
Saratoga Springs, New York
12866 USA
E-Mail:(Ofiara@albany.net)
------------------------------
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]From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 15:49:49 -0800 Subject: Re: series -s.plug leads ----------------------------- Begin Original Text ---------------------- I am wondering which type of spark plug leads are best for my 86in 1954 = SI, original solid (Cu) core leads (not worried about radio reception, = just original performance, or a set of carbon spark plug leads off the = shelf? ----------------------------- End Original Text ----------------------------- Now I guess we'll have secondary lead wars... I think the copper wire leads with a good quality insulation such as Hypolon are the best bet for an off road car. The carbon wires are OK but the carbon inside breaks and after a while can cause problems. The copper hangs in there untill the insulation system gets weak. There are plugs with an internal gap that goes well with copper wires TeriAnn ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 1996 00:16:47 +0000
From: David Olley at New Concept <newconcept@tcp.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Electrolysis, Alum
MHKINGER@aol.com wrote:
> Does anyone know of a chemical which can be put on aluminum after it has been wire brushed..........
As has recently been pointed out on this list, wire brushing itself can
lead to corrosion if a ferrous steel brush is used. Tiny particles of
steel will be left on the aluminium surface. These will corrode.
A proper etching primer, as used by Land Rover originally, correctly
applied, should, together with a good quality paint, prevent corrosion
on the surface.
Electrical isolation of ferrous fixings should be considered, using a
compound.
When considering rivets to fix ferrous metal to aluminium, probably the
best answer (if expensive) is to use "monel" rivets, as used to fix
stainless steel fittings to aluminium yacht masts. These are not subject
to galvanic action. They are available as "pop" rivets, but require lazy
tongues to set them as they are harder than normal aluminium rivets.
Of course, it is possible that your question is to do with a desire to
have a non-painted Land Rover. The one that I have seen (a Series
vehicle) at the Land Rover factory showroom looks wonderful with a clear
lacquer finish.
--
David Olley
.....................................................................................
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769 Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
Home Page: http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
.....................................................................................
------------------------------
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]Date: 17 Feb 96 20:04:14 EST From: Hanno Kruesken <100145.1076@compuserve.com> Subject: Land Rover 101 F.C. GIF The file LR101FC.ZIP includs a tec description, history and GIF-file for the most unusual Land Rover vehicle. Uploader: Hanno Kruesken e-Mail: 1001145.1076@compuserve.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 17 Feb 96 20:24:05 EST From: Hanno Kruesken <100145.1076@compuserve.com> Subject: Land Rover 101 F.C. The file LR101FC.TXT includs a tec description and history for the most unusual Land Rover vehicle. Uploader: Hanno Kruesken e-Mail: 1001145.1076@compuserve.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu> Subject: Urgent Advice Needed for Flooded Land Rover (fwd) Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 20:06:11 -0700 (MST) I am forwarding this private message to the list. Please respond directly to the sender. Forwarded message: From krages@ohsu.edu Fri Feb 16 17:11:33 1996 Message-Id: <s124a410.023@ohsu.edu> X-Mailer: Novell GroupWise 4.1 Date: Fri, 16 Feb 1996 15:38:06 -0800 From: Kathryn Krages <krages@ohsu.edu> To: tomills@du.edu Subject: Urgent Advice Needed for Flooded Land Rover My husband Bert has a 1957 Land Rover Series I 88 he has been restoring for the last two years. We live outside Portland, Oregon and as you may know, we had terrible flooding last week. Our carport was flooded with eight feet of water last Friday, Feb. 9th and the Land Rover was totally submerged (without the roof or windows on it). The engine wasn't working at the time so we couldn't drive the vehicle to safety and we didn't have enough time to arrange to tow it out. The Land Rover doesn't have auto insurance on it, and flood insurance doesn't cover motor vehicles. The water took about a week to recede and our carport is finally water-free as of Thursday, Feb. 15th. My husband is wondering what he can do to salvage the Land Rover and what to do first and how soon to do it. He thinks he should drain the oil and take the spark plugs out. He totally repainted the body last year but now it is covered with mud. Some of the seat cushions floated away but he has recovered at least one of them. If you have any advice that can help him or know on anyone else we could contact, please e-mail me at krages@ohsu.edu My husband doesn't have e-mail. We would be grateful for any advice or ideas you have. --Kathryn Krages Oregon Health Sciences University krages@ohsu.edu ******************************************** forwarded by: T. F. Mills tomills@du.edu University of Denver Library http://www.du.edu/~tomills Denver CO 80208 USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Solihul@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 22:23:15 -0500 Subject: front axle quit working blues The posting from the fellow who lost the use of his front axle reminded me: I have a set of dualmatics available. Free for the shipping. I would like to get a pair of regular flanges for spares, tho. Any takers? Regards to all, John Dillingham, 73 s3 SWB (engine rebuild) 72 s3 SWB (parked in surf too long, parting) and 66 s2a SWB (being babysat for friend in Boston) ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 1996 21:25:03 -1000 From: "ROGER HALL: HNL M.E. GROUP" <ROGER_H@verifone.com> Subject: silicone brake fluid I'm also interested in using this brake fluid. Silicone is not hygroscopic, so I would assume that the impact that water has on caliper pistons, brake lines, etc. would be practically eliminated. However, does this brake fluid have the same compression characteristics as regular brake fluid? Will the silicone attack rubber? Why is it that this brake fluid is not recommended for ABS brakes? Anybody know? Roger Hall '89 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960218 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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