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Date: Mon, 29 Jan 96 07:40:15 UT
From: "Matthew Loxton" <mloxton@msn.com>
Subject: RE: Collywobbles

OK, this was a while back and the Yellow Peril is not at home right now (in 
for some serious work), but I recall that the job was done inside 15 minutes, 
in the parking lot outside the spares place. (after negotiating Chapmans Peak, 
I was motivated to stop the wobbly). I needed two open-end spanners somewhere 
between 14-16mm. There is a pair of nuts at each end of the damper, one is 
used as a pinch/lock nut. Taking out is a piece of old p as long as the stub 
doesn't break free inside the damper and just turn (in which case a cutting 
torch might be handy). Putting the new one in can be a bit fidgety, as then 
damper has got to be compressed slightly to get it into position. This is not 
a big deal, and any off-the-shelf musculature should manage it. Just remember 
to smear the stub and threads with an anti-rust goop, otherwise the next time 
you might need that cutting torch. The change in steering is both immediate 
and refreshing, although it does take the challenge out of mountain passes.

Cheerz
Matthew
Mloxton@MSN.com		S-III Yellow Peril
ZA 

----------
From:  Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus
Sent:  28 January 1996 20:04
Subject:  Re: Collywobbles

Pardon me for asking, but how did you get the wretched steering damper out of 
the chassis without nuclear explosives or a cutting torch?

I've wanted to service mine (bad lower seal) but I haven't tried because of 
the 
fear I wouldn't be able to get the wretched thing out of the chassis.

Please tell - Alan R.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 05:31:30 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>

Looks like it will be no lists from the 1/2, never mind 1,2 or 3.
  
Say somebody do a snatch recovery using the winch of his camel trophy
Disco yesterday...
  
Cheers, Steve
  
Steve Reddock                         Product Evaluation, 26/12
Xyratex                  Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450  Int.721-4450
REDDOCK at HVTVM         Internet: Steve_Reddock@UK.XYRATEX.COM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 05:35:28 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Spamming the spammer

I've just had a thought!  Would it not be better to mail krazykevs
boss at kjl.com.  Perhaps he doesn't know that his internet connection
is being used illegally.
  
Or perhaps kjl.com is the spammers own company and that won't
work.
  
Does anybody know the answer?  Or even better does anybody know
where he lives?
  
Steve Reddock                         Product Evaluation, 26/12
Xyratex                  Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450  Int.721-4450
REDDOCK at HVTVM         Internet: Steve_Reddock@UK.XYRATEX.COM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 07:13:01 -0500
From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall Thomas)
Subject: RE: IIA damper seal, was Collywobbles

Alan,
I changed my lower seal without removing the damper. This is a pretty easy
job.  You may need
a Pittman arm puller to get the drop arm off, but there is no reason to
remove the damper from 
the frame.
Cheers, Randall

>I've wanted to service mine (bad lower seal) but I haven't tried because of 
>the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>fear I wouldn't be able to get the wretched thing out of the chassis.
>Please tell - Alan R.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 96 7:23:27 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: D90 Trans brake stuck/hard start

Hi all,
A few of you out there have posted about the transmission brake possibly 
getting frozen and stuck. I believe I had that problem this morning. 
Saturday we had a hard blowing rain all day and into the evening. I drove 
my D90 that night, and in doing so went thru many flooded areas. I pulled 
into my drive, which is unpaved and very muddy, parked and put the brake 
on as I always do. That night the temperature dropped to below freezing. 
All day Sunday the truck sat in the drive and the high temp for the day 
was about 20 degrees.

This morning when I went to back out I was stuck so bad that I stalled. 
Restarting was difficult until I really pumped the gas and held down the 
accelerator. After getting the engine going again I shifted to low range 
and eased the throttle a bit, and heard a loud thunk like something in the 
drive line was stuck then broke loose. After that all was fine. This has 
happened to me once before but not this bad. I thought it was just my BFG 
mud terrain's frozen to the ground. Both times my drive was so muddy that 
the mud was up on the tyros sidewalls.

>From now on I'm leaving the truck in gear, like I always do anyhow and the 
transmission brake off. When we get weather conditions like this again I 
want to see the difference in how "stuck" I am with just the tyros frozen 
in the mud!

I have a few questions;
1)- Do you think if the brake was frozen there was any damage to the drive 
line or the brake pads by breaking them free? I was in low range and eased 
the truck out. 

2)- Why was the truck so hard to restart? With EFI I thought you we NOT 
supposed to pump or hold the gas, but thats what it took to get her going?

Thanks,
Barnett
Childress Sturbridge, MA
95 D90. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 96 12:39:25 UT
From: "Matthew Loxton" <mloxton@msn.com>
Subject: Bridge to Engine room...

Micheal Kirk wrote about Disco's and engine warning light <snip>).. code was 
17 <snip> ...reset the ECU..<snip>...finally a dealer in Virginia 
replaced the EPROM in the ECU saying it was a new version designed to 
fix false check engine lights, nothing was wrong with my engine.  

Oh Lord...The New Rover Toolbox .. Version 2000 will contain :

1 x Notebook PC, maintenace tool, for the use of.
1 x pcmcia cell-phone card, device connecting, for the use of
1 x cell-phone GSM.
1 x World wide WWW account, logging to Solihull, for the use of.
1 x CD-ROM
1 x Tablets, Headache, for the use of

Holy whack! I can just imagine the scene, Knee deep in mud in the Okavongo 
delta, Master Control Program decides that it's engine needs adjustment and 
demands that you phone into the internet to download new code for it to set 
timing for your latitude before it will continue this journey. Oy Scotty, set 
the spatial confagulator to contrasize the spamsucker!

What happened to the crescent wrench and screwdriver cult.

Actually I feel quite breathless with the idea of multimedia CD-ROM manual, 
speaking personality module <make mine sound like Claudia Schiffer, please 
"Ooh darlink, vould you gif me zum more lubricashzun mittel mine pistonen are 
getink dry">, downloadable code for the ECU. Oh wow.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 96 8:29:49 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:RE: Whats been bothering me

Right on the mark TeriAnn and Daniel!

Many of Daniel's reasons for purchasing a new Defender as opposed to 
rebuilding a series apply to me also! I can only hope our beloved LR's 
will stand the test of time like the series LR's have, and will eventually 
be included with the classic's. I think they will.

Rover on!
Barnett Childress
95 D90

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 08:32:10 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Steering wobble

Hi, fitting a steering damper may well hide the wobble, but it
will not cure the problem which is causing the wobble.
  
I ran mine for 5 months without a damper and the vehicle kicked back
harder when off road and wandered a bit more on road, but there
where no speed wobbles.
  
If you hide the problem with a damper the offending wheel or wheels
could still be flapping about with the play in the swivel or
wherever, but you won't feel it.  This is a really bad situation
as you will think the problem has gone until it gets to the wheel
about to fall off stage.
  
By all means fit a damper after it is fixed - I wouldn't be without
mine, but not until you are sure it won't mask any serious problems.
  
Cheers, Steve
  
Steve Reddock                         Product Evaluation, 26/12
Xyratex                  Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450  Int.721-4450
REDDOCK at HVTVM         Internet: Steve_Reddock@UK.XYRATEX.COM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 08:42:56 GMT
From: michelbe@praline.net (Michel)
Subject: 1/27 list

Could someone be kind enough to send me the complete list of th 27th?? I
sorta only received 12 of the messages....

Merci beaucoup!!

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada

1963 LWB PU (everbraking Rudolph)
1968 LWB SW (in the works)
1973 SWB SW (21st century project)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 09:36:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Fun in Baltimore!

On Sat, 27 Jan 1996, WILLIAM ADAMS wrote:

> 	2. Ural motorcycles from Russia (with love). Look like BMW ripoffs from 
> the 1960's.Boxer engine 650cc, drum brakes and SHAFT drive!Ironing board 
> seat. One model of interest to Rover fans:

	At the conclusion to the Second World War, the Russians moved the
	BMW motorcycle factory lock, stock, and barrel to the Soviet Union.
	It would be better to say that theyse were not BMW rip-uffs, but
	Russian built BMWs.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 08:45:58 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Unimog in convoy

Snip

> States... in the middle of a convoy of US military vehicles lo-and-behold 
 a beautiful *new* example of the Mercedes Unimog sat on one flatbed truck 
> complete with both front end loader and rear bucket attachment.  Also a 
Snip

That reminds me of an amusing incident outside of Albany, New York 
some years back. I was heading south out of Albany on the interstate 
at a point where it intersected with another. As I came to the 
intersection an Army convoy was entering from the on ramp. The end of 
the convoy got on the route I was on just at the right time for me to 
latch on to the rear of it. I was driving my lightweight which still 
bears it's NATO camo including the canvas which was on at the time.
Since the convoys travel at about 50-55 it was the right speed for me 
and I tagged along for a few miles. Then they proceeded to exit the 
interstate, as directed by an MP, at the exit ramp. When I came into 
view and proceeded to head south rather than exit with the rest of 
the convoy the MP became very agitated waving his arms trying to 
indicate I was supposed to exit there. Then his jaw dropped and he 
had a look of bewilderment on his face as I drove right by him. I 
think at the last minute he noticed my VT tags and realized I was a 
civy. I had quite a chuckle over that.
I'm glad he didn't open fire thinking I was going AWOL.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 96 14:40:00 UT
From: "Matthew Loxton" <mloxton@msn.com>
Subject: Okavongo- Moremi Reserve

Anybody who is considering Moremi or Chobi for a holiday, please note that the 
travel agents forget to inform you (or don't know), that in addition to your 
advance payment for camp bookings, the gate will charge 50 Pula per person per 
day in cash (no travelers cheques).

I was nearly unseated by this, and a German couple were completely buggered. 
The nearest bank is back to Maun and does not honor many forms of transfer. 
It's a long way to come, to be stumped at the gate.

Is this useful to anybody or am I spamming ?

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 09:02:04 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: 109 towing

> >road(unbraked).............................500kg
> >I'm surprised about the lower road load unbraked, I assume it's 
> >because they assume you're going slower off pavement.
> This has nothing to do with off road use, Tom.

I would agree, except the cross country capacity rating didn't 
mention brakes, and it was higher than the on road unbraked load 
capacity. Unless they are implying that that was the max cross 
country whether braked or not.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 10:05:09 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: positive earth

On Sun, 28 Jan 1996 WAHORN@aol.com wrote:

> Does anyone on the lro list have nice clear directions on how to convert from
> positive earth to negative earth? 

	Why would you like to do such a thing?  If it is to install an
	alternator, just get a Lucas 16acr and flip the diodes so you
	have a + earth alternator.  Positive earth works fine.  I never 
	understand the need to change something around for the sake of
	changing it...

	Rgds,

	BTW, the boffins in metallurgy at the gov't labs here feel + earth
	is better for the longevity of your vehicle.  No hard proof, but it
	fits with the rest of their theories. (which deal more with pipelines
	etc)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 11:07:01 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Range rover compression

Not knowing my way around Range Rovers, I wonder if someone could enlighten 
me as to the compression reading for a 3.9.  Cylinder compression is the 
best guage on engine health, and I plan to check pressures on any vehicle I 
hope to buy.  (The dealers certainly look at you differently when you show 
up with coveralls, wrenches, a stethoscope and a compression guage!)  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: crash@merl.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 11:12:56 -0500
Subject: Humor: Tools!

Having picked up a nice new DVM (Digital VoltMeter, with the
Drip Resistant option [after all, it IS for Land Rover maintenance]) 
just before a dinner group met at a restarant, naturally I was 
loathe to leave the new toy in the car.

So, at the dinner, a friend saw the bag with the precious new
DVM and asked about it.

  "It's my new digital voltmeter".

	"Cool.  Here's mine."

whereupon he pulled out a well-used, slightly gouged, and rather
greasy voltmeter out of his briefcase.

  "Not bad.  But Ben, why are _you_ carrying a voltmeter around
   with you all the time ? "

Ben just stared at me, like I was being stupid... Then I realized...

  "... duh... Oh yes.  _Your_ car has Lucas electrics too!  "

	-Bill Yerazunis           ObLRO: don't split the list.
	 Sally X-ray, 94 LR Disco        I learn something new every day.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 11:42:43 -0500 (EST)
From: "Kier M. Ouderkirk" <km_ouderkirk@sunyit.edu>
Subject: LR in SI with Kathy Ireland

   The 1996 Sports Illustrated swim suit issue has a picture with Kathy 
Ireland sitting on the hood of a Defender. Can not see much of the 
Defender, but when you only have posters of Kathy Ireland and Land Rovers 
this makes a good addition to the wall.

                                         
1970 IIA 88                          Kier
lic # LRS RULE                       Upstate Rover 
                                     Used Parts For Sale

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 96 11:56:47 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Collywobbles

To cha
From:  Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus
Sent:  28 January 1996 20:04
Subject:  Re: Collywobbles

Pardon me for asking, but how did you get the wretched steering damper out of 
the chassis without nuclear explosives or a cutting torch?

I've wanted to service mine (bad lower seal) but I haven't tried because of 
the 
fear I wouldn't be able to get the wretched thing out of the chassis.

Please tell - Alan R.

Alan, Alan, Alan.

You are thinking steering relay, not damper. Steering damper is a shock absorber
mounted between the steering relay and the frame. The damper merely keeps the 
road bumps from shattering the bones in your arms. Also changing the relay lower
seal should be pretty easy, just undo the four lower bolts. There's a bottom 
retaining ring that you have to take off too I think. So undo the four lower 
bolts, take out the seal put in new seal, and you're done. The relay probably 
wont come out, but it doesn't need to if you are just changing the seal. The 
spring wont fly out unless you try to push the rod out. If you study the 
drawings you'll see what I mean. The bushings are what holds the spring in, and 
they cant come out until they are clear of the casing. This is because they're 
taperd so that the spring won't push them out. Ingenious...

Happy seal changing. Mine leaks but I'm gettin a new one when i do the frame 
over. Got the old one out with a big 'ol sledge. The bottom of the shaft looked 
rather "shiitake-like" when I was done. OH yeah, the small screws are liable to 
break off, so use LOTS of penetrating fun stuff. 

Cheers

Dave"The sick bastard"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 11:59:31 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Re: Kevin Lipsitz

        Okay gang...here's what we do.  I don't think there is any use 
re-spamming krazykev...if you read the message, it has to be an 
exact/correct copy.  I'll bet he's got some scripts to automatically delete 
incomming spam so he never even sees the stuff.  Instead, we head him off at 
the pass, so to speak - his Internet Service Provider - either/both Kazan 
Corp. (escape.com) or Connect 2 (CONNECT2.COM).  Descend upon these two 
administrators cut him off from the source.

----Begin forwarded message-----

From: howardl@abs.net (Howard D. Leadmon)
Subject: Re: Kevin Lipsitz
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 00:19:35 +0000 (GMT)
Content-Length: 2678      

> For the past several weeks, one Kevin Lipsitz (KrazyKev@kjl.com) has been 
> "spamming" the LRO digest - and I can only assume others as well - with 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Lipsitz has clearly demonstrated his greed and complete lack of 
> responsibility.  Please do not allow this illegal activity to continue.

If you are receiving this message, it is because you have written to me
ersonally regarding Kevin Lipsit.  ABSnet only processes DNS and MX records
for KJL.COM, and is in no way his ISP.  If you are having a problem with
Kevin, I suggest you contact his ISP, since that is where his network 
access is being supplied from.  Kevin has accounts with two NY ISP's, 
one is Kazan Corp., the other is Connect 2, and here is the information:

Kazan Corporation (ESCAPE-DOM)
   16 East 55th Street, Fifth Floor
   New York City, NY 10022

   Domain Name: ESCAPE.COM

   Administrative Contact, Technical Contact, Zone Contact:
      Kazan, Roman  (RK42)  roman@ESCAPE.COM
      212-888-8780

   Record last updated on 07-Mar-95.
   Record created on 22-Feb-94.

   Domain servers in listed order:

   ESCAPE.COM			198.6.71.10
   FREE.ESCAPE.COM		198.6.71.13

=======

Connect 2 Internet Networks, Inc. (NET-CONNECT2INET)
   NOTE-This is a non-portable UUNET CIDR allocation.
   26 Bay Street
   Staten Island, NY 10301
   US

   Netname: CONNECT2INET
   Netnumber: 206.67.191.0

   Coordinator:
      Olsin, John  (JO255)  jolsin@CONNECT2.COM
      (718) 966-6346

======

If by chance you believe that a SPAM has originated from an ABSnet user, 
then I would ask that you forward the appropriate message (with full headers
included) to support@abs.net where one of our tech's can compare the mail
or news against our logs to verify the authenticity of the message...

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Internet  : howardl@abs.net             |          Howard D. Leadmon
UUCP      : wb3ffv!howardl              |       ABSnet Internet Services
PHONE     : (410)-361-8160              |       200 E. Lexington Street
FAX       : (410)-381-8162              |             Suite-1602
PACKET    : WB3FFV @ WB3FFV.MD.USA.NA   |        Baltimore, MD  21202
WWW       : http://www.abs.net          |
 
----End Forwarded Message----

Mr. Leadmon is *not* the point man here...address your requests to Mr. Olsin 
and Mr. Kazan.  If they get hundreds of polite (but with a note of righteous 
indignation) posts, krazykev's going to get cut off.  GO GET 'EM! 
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 12:06:36 -4
Subject: looking for Wayne

If anyone on the list knows Wayne Potvin, would you please contact me 
. He has both Land Rovers and Sunbeams and lives in Maine.  (no, I'm 
not a bill collector , just looking for some Sunbeam parts).
Ron Franklin
Bowdoin, Maine
oldhaven@biddeford.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 96 11:55:35 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: D90 replacement gauge

Hello All,
I posted this last week, no response, so I thought I would try again; 

I am trying to find out about a replacement gauge that I heard about. The 
gauge is a three way unit temp/Volts/oil pressure that fits in the 
instrument cluster instead of the temp only gauge that is fit on NAS spec. 
D90's.

1) -Does anyone know of this unit? If so how to get one?
 
2)- What would be involved installation wise?

All help as usual is greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Barnett Childress
95 D90 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 19:55:01 +0200 (GMT+0200)
From: Andrew Birrell <pdandrew@iafrica.com>
Subject: Re: Series and Coil-Sprung: From a newspaper this morning...

way to go lads ... viva series viva !!!!

Andrew Birrell
Cape Town

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 13:08:46 -0500
Subject: Re: D90 Trans brake stuck/hard start... EFI Restart Problem

In a message dated 96-01-29 07:48:51 EST, Barnett writes:

>2)- Why was the truck so hard to restart? With EFI I thought you we NOT 
>supposed to pump or hold the gas, but thats what it took to get her going?
>Barnett
>95 D90. 

Yup, I thought that too until my 94 wouldn't start either.  

Same exact conditions, a cold start with just a little running time, a stall,
and then either a no-start, or a very difficult restart.  I don't know that
actually pumping the acc. pedal did any good, but the fact that you held the
throttle OPEN I think did it.  I surmised a flooded engine from my problems.

  I think that the cold start injector sprayed a lot of fuel into the engine
for the cold start (FI cars sometimes have a separate injector for cold
starts, the FI version of a choke to richen mixture for start--don't know if
our EFI actually has this, but it must have something for "choke" condx) then
after the engine stalled, there either:: 1) was still a lot of liq. fuel in
engine, too much for the warm start and hence flooded enigne.  or 2) the
temperature sensor for the cold start injector sensed that it still needed to
inject another shot of fuel for the re-start, and hence, flooded the engine
because the engine did not need this extra fuel.  .  

I would simply hold the throttle to the floor, even when you are waiting a
bit to try a re-start, this should help evaporate the liquid fuel in the
plenum (if the EFI has cold start injector) or the cylinders (that have a
valve open)  . . . IF the problem is a flooded engine.

John. 94 D90
Madtown, WIsconsin (they're all crazy here, really, it's 5.7 deg F and a
jogger just went by the house)
"Honey, where is my winter ale?"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 96 13:18:19 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: D90 replacement gauge, NOT!

Hi all,

Had my wires crossed again. There is no "replacement gauge". Jim Pappas at 
 LRMW has enlightened me to the facts. There is a panel in the center of 
the dash as on NAS D90SW. Instead of switches you can modify the panel and 
add oil pressure and volts gauges that were stock in NAS D110's.

Thought others might want to know.
Cheers,
Barnett

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 19:24:50 -0600 (CST)
From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: RE: side mirrors

In message Sun, 28 Jan 96 17:03:12 EST, iharper@afm.org  writes:

? What is  available?  Can I fit a 90/110 style mirror and arm (ALR4626 and
? MTC5083)  on the old mountings, or do I have to buy a new hinge for the
? door  (MXC8285,MXC8284)
? After making inquiries with Paddock, They told me that I would need
? MTC5217x(2) and the hinges (MRC 3037,38)  Could someone please tell me

I made this mod on my sIII recently. Great improvement.

Mirror       MTC5084
Mirror arm   MTC5083
Hinges       MRC3037 MRC3038

You don't need the hinges. You can drill the two holes. Drill from the
outside. Use a stationary drill or at least a drill with low rpm. I do
recommend the mentioned hinges. They are slightly different on the back. But
if you drill the old ones you might have to grind a little material to get
a flat surface for the bolt heads. You will need two M6x20 bolts per arm (at
least with MTC5083). You should by all means get a handful of extra
clipbolts (MRC2178) for the doorposts. The old ones will in many cases crack
or disappear.

Two kits complete about USD 55.

Enjoy.
sv/aurens

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 10:37:36 -0800
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: RR fuel pump storage

In light of the experiences of folks on the list, I felt it would be a good 
idea to replace my aging fuel pump during the recall gas tank replacement on 
my '88 RR.  My dealer agreed, and even added a story of a customer who had 
to be towed back to the United States from 100 miles down the Baja 
penninsula after the fuel pump in his Range Rover died.

Since my old fuel pump is still fully functional, and thinking it might be 
wise to carry a spare (not for field repair, of course, but to hand to the 
Mexican mechanic), I asked to take the old one with me.

Now, how do I clean the gasoline out of the pump?  Is there some solvent I 
can run through it?  Should I run some lightweight oil through it before 
tossing it in my spares bin?

-Matt

------------------------------

From: PDoncaster@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 14:24:16 -0500
Subject: Series II Insurance

I got my radiator soldered and put back in. Thanks for all the advice, it was
pretty easy.

NEW PROBLEM (there always is one)

My second insurance co. wants to drop my Land Rover. They say they dont have
enough data to calculate the risk....BS....BS....BS....

First it was GEICO, now State Farm. Can somone elce with  State Farm, or with
similar experience give me some advice..

I have 15 days till they drop me!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 11:49:19 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: RR fuel pump storage

Matt -- I was planning to do exactly the same thing! Good idea! I 
have often had the uncomfortable vision of being stranded by fuel 
pump failure and knowing that it's a fairly major job to replace it 
even if you do have a spare. However having one is better than not! Sorry I 
don't know how to store it though. Would you need to run some kind of 
solvent through it to get rid of any deposits or something??

Secondly -- what fuel tank do you get as a replacement from the dealer?? 
Is it the same as the original with the skid plate, or a newer design 
with or without a skid plate?

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

On Mon, 29 Jan 1996, Matt Snyder wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> In light of the experiences of folks on the list, I felt it would be a good 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
> tossing it in my spares bin?
> -Matt

------------------------------

From: Steve Willey-pc <steve.willey-pc@attws.com>
Subject: RE: RR '90 NAS: Rear Brake Light Wiring
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 12:28:18 -0800

(yes, that's rear brake lights, not to be confused with any other brake lights?)

Well, I've answered my own question.  Actually, Land Rover of Seattle shop staff 
answered my question.  

The thing is a noise suppresser.  From what anyone knows (thinks?) it reduces line 
noise that causes staticy radio reception. The noise suppresser does not show up on
schematics so is therefore a passive device, correct?  What we do know is that the 
thing costs 200.00 US$ and has been wired around before without any negative 
consequences.  It's just one of those things that makes a plushmobile plush and a 
drain on the wallet to repair.  

Cheers,
Steve
p.s. Look Ma!  I can put in my own CR LFs!  

----------
From:  steve willey (Corporate)
Sent:  Saturday, January 27, 1996 6:12 PM
Subject:  RR '90 NAS: Rear Brake Light Wiring

To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Rover Folk,
My third brake light (centre; immediately above the release for the =
upper tailgate) does not light. 

After rooting around the wiring behind the right rear tail lamp assembly =
and above the headliner in the right rear corner I have a suspect.  =
There is a mysterious black shrink tube sealed 'thing" that is in-line =
with the wires going to the upper tailgate that lives above the =
headliner in the right rear corner.  This oblong black thing has four =
wires going in, four wires going out, and a short lead that that goes =
directly to the body of the car.  The thing has a white label with "RPC =
1289" printed on it and on the opposite side is 'branded' with "34 89" =
(constructed 34th week of '89?). 
Three of the four wires; black (ground/earth), pink (tailgate common =
locking), and orange (also, tailgate common locking) have continuity =
through the thing, green/purple (brake lights) does not.  I'm guessing =
this is the problem. 

So, the grand prize question is: Should we split the list?  No.  Just =
kidding.  The question is what is this thing and should it be passing =
the current for the brake lights unobstructed? 

I have not (yet?) forked over the dough for the shop manual and the =
electrical manual (about 180 US$ each, I believe) and would very much =
appreciate the help of anyone who has or who knows what this thing is =
and if it is broken. 

Cheers,
Steve

Steve Willey
steve.willey@attws.com
Architectural Engineer
AT&T Wireless Services
Kirkland, WA, USA
206.803.7693	206.419.8044	fax: 206.803.7407

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 15:31:13 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Series II Insurance

On Mon, 29 Jan 1996 PDoncaster@aol.com wrote:

> My second insurance co. wants to drop my Land Rover. They say they dont have
> enough data to calculate the risk....BS....BS....BS....
> First it was GEICO, now State Farm. Can somone elce with  State Farm, or with
> similar experience give me some advice..

	Like with any classic vehicle, the fastest route around this problem
	is to get the vehicle appraised by an independent appraiser (or in
	some cases like up here) get one from your local Land Rover club.
	This gives them a reference point to the value of the vehicle
	which is their primary worry.  From their point of view, it is
	a 30 year old vehicle that in theory should be worth scrap.  
	However, the insurance companies have been burnt by people 
	insuring their classic vehicle at scrap rates, yet when a problem
	occurs, claiming huge amounts for repairs/replacement.  Insurance
	companies don't like this.  I have had the same problem with the
	109.  

	The solution here has been: to sign a piece of paper
	stating the value of the vehicle which both parties can live
	with; let them put a value on it and you live with it; get
	it appraised by an independent appraiser; get an appraisal
	from the local club (OVLR here).  In the last case, insurance
	companies have accepted appraisals from OVLR on our letterhead
	on the value of a vehicle.

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 14:43:06 -0600
Subject: Series: Oil drain spanner

Hi all,

was out at sears last weekend looking for a wrench to pull the drain   
plugs from my diffs, etc. The droid told me craftsman didn't have such an   
animal. What do you use for pulling these? Where'd you get it? How much?

I don't know if they're different, but mine all have slots about 1" long   
and 1/4" wide. Part of my rebuild plan includes replacing every fluid in   
the entire vehicle, something I have yet to do.

Thanks,

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 15:23:51 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Series: Oil drain spanner

> was out at sears last weekend looking for a wrench to pull the drain   
 plugs from my diffs, etc. The droid told me craftsman didn't have such an   
> animal. What do you use for pulling these? Where'd you get it? How much?

If you're in the US
JC Whitney sells (or used to) a tool that looked kind of like a dog 
bone that had multiple shapes on each end for just this purpose. 
Flats, squares of various sizes. Unfortunately I lent mine to a 
customer who never returned it. Sears (and Snap-On, Matco, etc) sells 
a tool called a drag link socket that will work. It's sides are 
sloped so you either have to grind shoulders on it or hold it tight 
into the slot with your free hand. If you get Chraftsman, you want 
the big one.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 16:30:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Series: Oil drain spanner

On Mon, 29 Jan 1996, Tim Harincar wrote:

> animal. What do you use for pulling these? Where'd you get it? How much?

1.	Large cold chisel, socket, breaker bar.
2.	Home-made item that fits in, "L" shaped...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 96 16:36:57 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Series: Oil drain spanner

Tim is mystified:

was out at sears last weekend looking for a wrench to pull the drain   
plugs from my diffs, etc. The droid told me craftsman didn't have such an   
animal. What do you use for pulling these? Where'd you get it? How much?

Make one yourself. If you're not handy or don't happen to have large chunks of 
iron around, then use the side of a large open end spanner. Looks like this:
 
                        \      DIFF           /  
                          \_________________/ 
         PLUG>>>>>>>>>>>>>>|_______________|
                              _________                  
                             /         \                          
                           /________    \________________________   
                                    |         CRAFTSMAN            
                           _________|   __________________________     
                           \           /                                 
                            \_________/                                         
                                                                                
 Dig it? If you want to make your own, Mike L. has a great one that he made. I 
ripped him off and made one just like it. I'll let Mike publish the details if 
he wants but basically its a piece of steel about the size of the slot in the 
plug, bent into a 90 degree angle to give you a handle. There's even a nut on 
there if you need more leverage. But the wrench trick should work, just follow 
the picture and make sure it's craftsman or something good because if it's Made 
in Taiwan then it'll probly break.
Happy Oiling. Better get a big drain pan!

Dave
                                                                                
   

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 13:40:10 -0800
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: Re: RR fuel pump storage

>Secondly -- what fuel tank do you get as a replacement from the dealer?? 
>Is it the same as the original with the skid plate, or a newer design 
>with or without a skid plate?

I haven't had a chance to crawl underneath and look closely,  but I did 
notice there's a nice new ribbed skid plate.  I think the tank itself is 
basically unchanged.  I believe the new arrangement has some isolation 
between the skid plate and tank, as the old arrangement was prone to rusting 
where they joined.  

-Matt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 13:56:07 -0800
From: Richard.Green@Eng.Sun.COM (Rich Green)
Subject: Discovery Reliability Data/References/Opinions wanted

I'm considering the purchase of a Discovery model (1996/5 speed) and
was looking for any information on reliability/repair info.  I tend
to keep my vehicles for a long time and want to know that I will survive
this purchase.
All other things about this vehicle seem very appealing and I am not
expecting perfection (owning two old Saabs and a BMW motorcycle) but
constant concerns about reliability or questionable durability would
be serious cause for concern.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rich

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 17:25:57 -0500
Subject: Spam on the list

>Any software out there like CallerID that won't receive mail from specific
users?  

The BMW list had a problem with Spam from Krazy Kevin and others.  The list
was modified so only list subscribers can post to it.  This also eliminated
posts from those who wanted to discuss Hillary Clinton, racism, etc. instead
of BMW's.  If the LRO List Coordinator contacts me I'll give you the BMW List
Coordinator's E-mail address, he may be able to help.

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 17:03:43 -0600
Subject: Series: Frame replacement log 3

Frame Replacement Log : Week 3

Some progress this week, but the weather is slowing me down. Its been
unusually cold for this time of year, with the highs all week only
around 10 above (f), and its getting *colder* this week. Usually its
about 25 so getting up to 50 or 60 degrees inside isn't too hard.

I was able to remove both wings, the grille and the radiator - my
primary goal for the week. I spent quite a bit of time cleaning these
parts up as well, since later in the week I was forced out of the
garage by cold. When its windy, the 35K BTU heater just can't keep
up. I'm working on getting an additional heater. 

I would have been able to get more done, but I'm still working alone. 
Getting the wings off was a trick. I had to wedge a spanner on the
inside and turn from the underside of the wing, usually popping the
wedged spanner off. It was a slow process.

I did learn that its pretty simple to get a wing off, and in the 
future it'll make life a lot easier to just pop one off when working
on the motor.

I was able on saturday afternoon, when it reached 15 above, to get
the garage locally warm enough to get one coat of primer on about
a quarter of the new frame. Thats what I really need to do - get the
replacement frame painted so I can begin the transfer of parts.

I'm ready now to begin working on the front axle and steering.

Can it be spring now? Please?

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 
SW

------------------------------

Date: 29 Jan 96 18:41:37 EST
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Steering Wobble

I echo TeriAnn's remarks re steering shake and the need to fix the problem, not
to cover it up with a steering damper.
  . In 28 years and as many Land Rovers and hundreds of thousands of miles
driven on and off road,  I have never had one with a steering damper, used
everything from 5.5 to 8.25 tyres and never had any problems with a " properly
set up steering system."
 However I have seen a lot of problems with wide tyres, the typical 9 inch plus
type which affects the steering geometry by moving the centre line of the wheel
further out and thus multipling the effects of any balance or road loads.

 Regards   Bill Leacock   Limey in exile

------------------------------

Subject: ** W A R N I N G ** Land Rover Mail List(s) are moving
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 19:35:42 -0500
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@OpenMarket.com>

As of 1 February all the Land Rover Lists functioning at the current site

	'*.stratus.com'

WILL CEASE to FUNCTION.

Watch for future mail about the new site and any instructions for the

Transition period.

    Cheers,
        --bill  caloccia@OpenMarket.com		   P
						   R
	http://www.senie.com/billc/		   N
                                                L  D
   R  1  3  2wd  H        1  3 R  dl OD  L      |  3     
   +--|--|   o   |        |--|-+  o  |   |      H  2
      2  4  4wd  L        2  4    ul N   H         1
   '63 SIIa RHD 88"       '72 Range Rover     '90 RR County
      793-PTA                DAJ-802-L
			   Dewsbury, UK
		       (for sale 1500GBP)
			

------- End of Forwarded Message

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 19:45:26
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re: Steering Wobble

Hi all,
 A year ago I bought my first Land Rover 88 (Gabe) & once it was 
streetable. I discovered a steering wobble also. After checking 
everything in the steering for warn parts I went to the local 
expert.  He was stumbed as well. The solution turned out to be that 
a passed owned must have changed the shims in the passenger pivit & 
had put in to many shims. This caused the tapered bearing on the 
bottom to have to much clearance. Hence the wobble.  Even when it 
all looks right it may not be.
 The LR have a after market damper which hide the problem nicely 
but destroyed the streeing ling swivels.
 Regards,
 Rob Davis_Chicago 

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 29 Jan 96 20:37:23 EST
Subject: Fred Ellsworth - call me!

Fred, I need to talk to you! Call me at Lotus! -Al R.

------------------------------

From: slade@sisna.com
Subject: Heater thoughts
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 19:08:11 -0700

I was thinking about my heater today as we actually got sub-freezing
temperatures here (Portland OR) for the first time this week, and about how
it actually works.

I noticed (for the first time, duh) that fresh air is drawn from the
outside, heated, and blown into the drivers compartment (OK, so I'm not
Albert frickin' Einstein).

I was wondering if you could rig it so that you heated the already somewhat
warm inside air over and over.  My wife pointed out that you would get a
lot of moisture in the air, and I countered by offering that you'd probably
get enough fresh air by virtue of it just being a leaky old Land Rover
(series, that is).

So, would it work?  Does it work (if anyone's already tried)?

Just thinking out loud.

Regards,

Michael

-Proud father, husband and Land-Rover owner-

------------------------------

From: WAHORN@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 21:21:37 -0500
Subject: + earth

Thanks for all the responses to my + earth questions.

Ashley Horn

------------------------------

From: ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 21:28:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE:Rambling

Well, to answer the trivia of the other day (many folks - even non-OVLR 
:) ones got it right)... one can tell with reasonable accuracy the 
quarter and year of vehicle production by simply looking at the logo 
etched into the corners of each window - look for "Triplex XXX 
Toughened."  By splitting the word Triplex into 4 quarters (TR-IP-LE-X) 
and looking for the dot above the letters, you know the vehicle was 
produced in the corrosponding quarter of the year... Splitting the word 
Toughened into 9 parts, you can get the year (1-9) of production - for 
example:
					X
				 Triplex
				   XXX
				Toughened
				      x    
	
This series IIA vehicle would have been produced in the last quarter 
(OCT.,NOV.,DEC.) of 1967 - there are some obvious things, however, to 
watch out for... One - the investigator must figure out what decade the 
vehicle was from (50s,60s,70s...) first.  Then look at *each* window to 
confirm that the window that you first looked at wasn't a replacement 
from years past - or that i.e. the window wasn't from a donor vehicle.  
The best place to check is the windscreen, since hardtops/cabs/etc. are 
easily interchanged...

	As a "financial sales rep" at Vermont Federal Bank, one obvious 
aspect of my job is to advise people on smart investments, so here goes...
As was easily predicted, the 500 NAS 90SWs sold quickly (there are some 
left, though) and will certainly gain value at least initially... so is 
the case, as there is an advertisement in this past Sunday's Boston Globe 
for one with 250 miles - asking price?  A whopping $39,500!!! (to the 
unknowledgeable, that's $7000 profit).  You may laugh now, but in 4,5,6 
months when such ads are common, you'll be booting yourself on the same 
cheek of your sorry ass that you were kicking after those 110s sold 
out... need I remind anyone of the 60k mile example that still sold for 
$45,000 last fall??  If I only had collateral :(

	Well my congrats go out to Jeff etc. at RN for another fine 
newsletter. I just received it today and was impressed with the beefiness 
of the content - it is nice to see that there is still so much to be said 
about these vehicles...  Speaking of fine publications, I just purchased 
my favorite book ever on the marque - it is called "Range Rover - The 
Complete Story" by James Taylor and Nick Dimbleby (sp?)... this book is 
indeed so complete that it gives every conceivable angle on the vehicle 
including everything from the VIN, Reg #, color and fate of the original 
20 press release RRs of 1970 all the way up to many different conversions 
that I hadn't ever seen before... like a drop sided recognissance vehicle 
for a Saudi customer complete with mounted rifle or the very interesting 
model with 2 spare wheels mounted externally in a cut-away space behind 
the "C" pillar.. a valuable find for only $29 at Barnes and Noble 
- which, by the way, stocks both LRO and LRW plus the standard Chris Bennet 
softcover LR book... I'm saving up for a thick hardcover that they have
devoted to the Rover V8 - about 200 pages on every vehicle from the 
Buick thru the newest 1995 Range Rover and MGB!

	For trivia, I'll ask an ultra specific one about the series I wood 
paneled station wagon... like the venerable bowl full of jelly beans, 
guess how many of them were actually produced (I'll help out by saying 
that I think they were produced by Tickford between '51 and '54 - but 
don't hold me to those dates).

Frank Twarog
Burlington, VT

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 03:34:03 -0600 (CST)
From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: Re: Series II Insurance

In message Mon, 29 Jan 1996 15:31:13 -0500 (EST),
  Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca::  writes:

:: 	Like with any classic vehicle, the fastest route around this problem
:: 	is to get the vehicle appraised by an independent appraiser (or in
        ...
:: 	occurs, claiming huge amounts for repairs/replacement.  Insurance
:: 	companies don't like this.  I have had the same problem with the
:: 	109.

:: 	The solution here has been: to sign a piece of paper
:: 	stating the value of the vehicle which both parties can live
:: 	with; let them put a value on it and you live with it; get
:: 	it appraised by an independent appraiser; get an appraisal
:: 	from the local club (OVLR here).  In the last case, insurance
:: 	companies have accepted appraisals from OVLR on our letterhead
:: 	on the value of a vehicle.

DL-RK has a long term contact with an insurance broker in order to get
resonable rates for the members. The result is that about 200 vehicles get
liability and value covered. It also covers off-road!!. The price is in many
cases lower than that of most "well known" household cars. And you won't get
punished with higher rates if you have an accident.

Annual rate is about dkr 4300 (usd 715) for liablity and value.
You have to pay the first dkr 3000 (usd 500) if you wreck your car. Unless
you either borrow it to someone or drive off-road without taking the DL-RK
off-road course. Then your risk is dkr 6000.

Quite resonable considering the insurance market here.

I haven't read about similar arrangements on the list. Could be an idea for
larger clubs. Smaller clubs should be able to form associations for this
purpose. The DL-RK arrangement is renegotiated every year. If rates doesn't
go down when the company is getting used to the make, the assoc. could just
take all their customers business elsewhere.

Don't know if this is any help.

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: BDaviscar@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 22:28:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Heater thoughts

The  old vw  bugges did it  why can't  a Landie do it.
JC Whitny selles  the blower assy. for the bugs still.

Bruce  Chicago
67 SIIA 88 Patches

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 20:07:22 -0800
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: Series: Re: Heater thoughts

At 07:08 PM 1/29/96 -0700, you wrote:

>I was thinking about my heater today <snip>
>I was wondering if you could rig it so that you heated the already somewhat
>warm inside air over and over.

With the Smiths fresh air heater type I'm sure you could do this, with a length 
of duct going from the blower intake to a hole cut in the passenger footwell.

If the Rover is mostly occupied by only 1 or 2 people, another idea that might
be easier and just as effective is to hang material  behind the front seat,
from the 
roof to the bulkhead behind the seats (in case of 2-doors) or to the brace
behind 
the front seats (in case of a wagon.)  Envision something like the rear
panel of a
canvas top, with a window of clear vinyl.  This would hold the heated air 
around the drivers and front seat passenger.

Either way, try cleaning out your heater core and making sure the valve (where 
the heater hose enters the heater core) is fully open.  My heater was just
so-so,
and some cleaning improved it 100%.

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 20:49:26 -0800
Subject: Re: RR fuel pump storage

On Mon, 29 Jan 1996, matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) wrote:

>Since my old fuel pump is still fully functional, and thinking it might be 
>wise to carry a spare (not for field repair, of course, but to hand to the 
>Mexican mechanic....

Not bloody likely!  If you're going to drive anywhere in the third world, be 
prepared to either do the work yourself, or watch the locals doing the work like 
a hawk!

A couple of examples from my father's travels...

Turkey, 1961  LR SII LWB SW:  After breaking a half-shaft, limped into a nearby 
town.  Decided to let the local garage do the work...simple emough job, right?  
The stub of the half shaft was lodged in the differential, though.  The local 
brain surgeons had a solution.  Before my father could realize what was 
happening, the other half-shaft had been removed and an eight foot piece of 
re-bar replaced it....a few taps with a 12 pound sledge and the rear diff was 
history!  Four days later, they made it out.

Bolivia, 1972  Dodge B300 Van Chassis w/camper:  Problems running at high 
altitude.  Pulled vehicle into "Dodge Dealer", came back 30 minutes later to 
find several bewildered "mechanics" trying to figure out how to dislodge a 
hammer from the carburettor!

Just a couple examples...I'm sure there are more.  Just be aware that what 
passes for a mechanic in many parts of the world is well below the average Rover 
owner.  IMHO, If you're going to trust your life to a vehicle, at least learn 
how to make simple repairs and replace the various parts prone to failure...

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 21:14:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Series: Oil drain spanner

On Mon, 29 Jan 1996, Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar) wrote:

>was out at sears last weekend looking for a wrench to pull the drain   
>plugs from my diffs, etc. The droid told me craftsman didn't have such an   
>animal. What do you use for pulling these? Where'd you get it? How much?

I know many folks have fabricated various specialty tools for this application 
(no doubt the proper way to do so).  In a pinch, however, a large screwdriver 
(square shaft) with a crescent wrench on the shaft will usually free the plug.
When you replace it, use some anti-sieze, and you'll only have to use the 
screwdriver in the future.

I know, I know, use the proper tool for the job.  But after a while you start 
carrying around so many tools that you run out of room for the cooler! :)

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 21:14:30 -0800
Subject: Re: Heater thoughts

On Mon, 29 Jan 1996, slade@sisna.com wrote:

>I was wondering if you could rig it so that you heated the already somewhat
>warm inside air over and over.  My wife pointed out that you would get a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>(series, that is).
>So, would it work?  Does it work (if anyone's already tried)?

Another thing you might want to try is to form a sort of air scoop over the air 
inlet hole, forcing more air through the heater system.  I know its a botched 
way of doing things but when it gets cold, the 'prper' way doesn't always work.

If you have passengers very often, I would recommend installing an auxiliary 
heater in the rear.  I just put one in a couple days ago and its great.  Its a 
small box that hooks into the existing heater lines and has a built-in fan...If 
you want some more info, e-mail me and I'll describe the whole arrangement.

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 22:03:35 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Series II Insurance

PDoncaster sez...

>My second insurance co. wants to drop my Land Rover. They say they dont have
>enough data to calculate the risk....BS....BS....BS....
>First it was GEICO, now State Farm. Can somone elce with  State Farm, or with
>similar experience give me some advice..

-

I've had Rovers insured with Allstate for about 8 years. When I put the '65
IIa on the road last year they listed is as a 1965 Range Rover. A few other
people with Allstate have had the same experience. No differance in premiums
though (!!!!).

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 22:03:35 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Series: Oil drain spanner

Tim asks...

>was out at sears last weekend looking for a wrench to pull the drain   
>plugs from my diffs, etc. The droid told me craftsman didn't have such an   
>animal. What do you use for pulling these? Where'd you get it? How much?
-

I took a piece of scrap steel about 1/4" x 2" x 12". Cut one end with a saw
to fit into the drain plug screw and then bent the steel into an "L" shape.
Works fine, lasts a long time. Total cost was ZERO!

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 22:09:07 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Range rover compression

I don't have a Range Rover, but since Rangies and Discos have the same
engines...

>From the 1995 Discovery Workshop Manual for V8i engines:

5.  Expected readings, throttle fully open, battery fully charged:
    8.31:1 = 10.2-10.9 bar, 150-160lbf/in(2)
    9.35:1 = 11.5-12.2 bar, 170-180lbf/in(2)

Cheers,
John
'95 Discovery
San Francisco

At 11:07 29.01.96 -0500, Alexander P. Grice wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Not knowing my way around Range Rovers, I wonder if someone could enlighten 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
>      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: John Putnam <jdputnam@pacifier.com>
Subject: Interactive mail list
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 22:06:15 -0800

Hello All,

After reading some of yestardays postings, I'm I to believe that we can =
no lnger conect to the Landrover Owners mail list interactively?  I was =
planning on changing my subscription this week.  Please let me know if a =
still can.

Thanks

John Putnam
'70 SIIa

------------------------------

From: John Putnam <jdputnam@pacifier.com>
Subject: Cold weather SIIa
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 22:16:37 -0800

Hi again,

Over the weekend I went up to Timberline Ski resort on Mt. Hood.  While =
I was sking in blizzard conditions, my poor Rover was filling up with =
snow.  At the end of my day I found a pile of snow inside the front of =
the truck that blow in from various holes in the bulkhead and weather =
stripping  (high winds and snow).  This was quite amusing.  The real =
prolblem came when I tried to start it up.  After repeated attempts and =
almost draining my battery ( it was about 10 degrees F at about 6,000 =
feet ) I poped open the bonnet only to find the permanent air cleaner on =
my Weber carb to be frozen.  It was so frozen that it would not allow =
any air to pass into the barrel of the carb.  My question is for all of =
Rover owners who live in extreemly cold areas of the world.  Have any of =
you ever had this happen and if so, how have you stopped it?

Thanks in advance

John Putnam
'70 SIIa
Beaverton, OR

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 29 Jan 96 20:50:05 UT
From: "Matthew Loxton" <mloxton@msn.com>
Subject: FW: Stages of a party!

Sorry guys, no offence but I can't resist posting this. Yes, yes, I know it's 
a semi spam, and wastes bandwidth etc. but if it really bugs you mail me and 
I'll send you a beer. (offer valid only while stocks last)
-------------------------------------------------------------------
        HOW TO TELL IF YOU'RE THROWING A SUCCESSFUL PARTY

  -  Festivity Level One  -
Your guests are sitting around chatting, nibbling the party food,
sipping their drinks.  They are admiring your Christmas tree
ornaments and stand around the piano singing carols. Some are wearing
Land Rover Jackets, but seem sedate.

  -  Festivity Level Two  -
Your guests are talking loudly, occasionally to one another.
They are wolfing down the food, gulping their drinks, rearranging
your Christmas ornaments and sitting on the piano singing "I
Gotta Be Me." There are Land Rover Jackets hanging on the tree.

  -  Festivity Level Three  -
Your guests are holding conversations with inanimate objects,
gulping other peoples' drinks, wolfing down Christmas ornaments
and dancing around the piano shouting the words to "I Can't Get
No Satisfaction". Some one is smoking a Land Rover Jacket

  -  Festivity Level Four  -
Your guests, food smeared across their naked bodies, are
capering around the burning Christmas tree in some unholy
ritual.  The piano is missing. There is a Series-III Land Rover 
leaking oil quietly onto the Persian rug

Unless you rent your home, or own heavy firearms, you
generally don't want your parties operating above Level Three.
The true test of party success, however, is whether or not the
police arrive.  If they do arrive, your job as host is to see
that they don't arrest anyone.  If they are intent on arresting
someone, your job is to see that it isn't you.  Following is an
example of how to successfully handle this situation.

Police:
"We've come in response to the complaints."

You:
"Complaints?  It isn't about the drugs, is it?"

Police:
"No, sir, not drugs."

You:
"The guns, then?  They're complaining about the guns?"

Police:
"No, sir.  It's about the noise."

You:
"Oh, that's all right then.  'Cause there sure aren't any guns or drugs
here, heh heh."

[An explosion sounds somewhere behind you]

You:
"Or fireworks either!  The neighbours complained, did they?"

Police:
"No, sir.  The neighbours all fled inland hours ago.  The recent complaints
have come from Iowa."

[At this point a green Diesel Land Rover, painted in various arcane symbols, 
roars
out of the living room, down the hall past you and the policemen, out into
the front yard and into the nearest tree.  Eight naked bodies tumble out,
moaning. One is dragging a paraffin heater]

You:
"There, you see?  It's winding down already."

------------------------------

From: "Richard" <rziegler@maple.sover.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 02:23:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Polarity change

     Ashley Horn asked for instructions on reversing polarity and 
Mike L. replied.  But, he flashed the wrong terminal on the 
generator.  Instructions I have in hand and have successfully used 
for years say the smaller terminal (field terminal) is the one to 
flash with a hot wire from the battery.  Also he left out switching 
the two small leads going to the coil.  Other than these two points 
he covered the subject well.
     The only reason to switch the plastic pieces on the dash plug 
socket is because we associate red with + and black with -; as far as 
the actual wiring goes the hot - terminal (with + ground) becomes a 
hot + terminal when you change polarity and too bad about the colors.

     As regards brake drum cutting:  The series 10" drums could be 
cut an additional .010" as recommended by Rover.  I have measured effective brake drums that 
were .050" oversize but I would go any further than that and it 
greatly depends on the thickness of the brake shoe padding as to how 
effective they will be.  The above is also true of 11" drums used on 
the 109s.

     Regarding steering problem:  I have a lengthly instruction sheet 
for checking out the steering that I have put together over the years 
and will share it with others if they contact me direct via e-mail.  

Happy Rovering,
Rich Ziegler, L/R mechanic   '63 88 SIIA pet. (in pieces) '74 88 SIII 
HT pet. daily driver '73 88 SIII pet. (awaiting chassis)

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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