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Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 05:35:14 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: What is a cresent wrench?

Presumably it is a terminology question, but I have never heard or a
crescent wrench. Can someone describe what it does & how it does it. Will
my life suddenly be complete if I get one?
  
Ta, Steve
  
Steve Reddock                         Product Evaluation, 26/12
Xyratex                  Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450  Int.721-4450
REDDOCK at HVTVM         Internet: Steve_Reddock@UK.XYRATEX.COM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 11:33:59 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: wider wheel offsets for series Landrover

Forward Control rims to get this advantage. They were 5
>studs then !
>Regards, Ian

Ian,
The 101 *is* six stud.But the 11A @ 11B 110FC are five stud.Perhaps
these are what you bought?
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 11:50:01 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: What is a cresent wrench?

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Presumably it is a terminology question, but I have never heard or a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>crescent wrench. Can someone describe what it does & how it does it. Will
>my life suddenly be complete if I get one?

Dont see why your life should be any richer than it undoubtedly already
is,but.....its a C spanner.The sort of thing you used to use on a <shudder>
*bicycle*.Also used on some good quality steam fittings.The "nut" would be
round,with grooves along its length.The spanner,shaped like a "C" had a
little lug on the outer end that engaged with one of the grooves.Used before
we found out how to make things badly.On a bike,it is,(or was) used to tighten
or otherwise the nut on the main pedal shaft where it went through the frame.
But what you would use one for on a Land Rover is currently a mystery.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Re[2]: Collywobbles
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 96 08:24:50 -0500
From: Ron Franklin <oldhaven@biddeford.com>

-- [ From: Ron Franklin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

-------- REPLY, Original message follows --------

> From:  Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus
> Sent:  28 January 1996 20:04
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
(read: steering relay-rjf) out of 
> the chassis without nuclear explosives or a cutting torch?

-------- REPLY, End of original message --------
The steering on my old beast had about 15 degrees of play due to a
combination of worn out rod ends and wear in the splines of the relay and
both relay arms.  (Be sure to keep the pinch bolts on these arms tight or
the movement will ruin the splines).  The arms and rod ends were easy, but
the relay could have been welded in and no amount of hammering, penetrating
oil or heat caused even the slightest movement.  Even jacking the vehicle up
using the relay shaft so the weight of the front end  was on the relay
didn't work.  I finally had to remove the grill and radiator and build a
fixture involving bars on top of the frame drilled to take 3/4 inch threaded
rod.  The rods went down along the sides of the crossmember and connected to
another bar against the relay shaft, using spacer blocks as necessary.  by
tightening nuts on the bottom of the lower bar I was able to put enough
pressure on the relay to cause the top of the crossmember to start to
distort.  At that point I got out the hammer and managed to get the thing to
move about 1/32 of an inch, enough to make a beer seem in order.  From then
on it was a slow process of tighten, hammer, tighten, hammer, beer....going
on for about 3 hours.  When the relay had moved high enough to get it above
the top mounting flanges I was able top use a large drift and hammer to turn
it back and forth in its socket by banging on the bosses for the bolts.  It
finally came out, but fought up to the last 1/2 inch.  What had been holding
it was 29 years of rust which had expanded the diameter of the relay enough
to effectively make it an interference fit in its bore.  The new relay
dropped right in.
Have fun.

--
 
 Ron Franklin
Bowdoin, Maine, USA
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 96 8:40:39 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: D90/hard cold re-start

Thanks to all who replied to my questions about the hard re-start in cold 
conditions.

Barnett
(The truck's n' gear and the transmission brake is OFF!)
Childress

------------------------------

From: 73363.427@compuserve.com
Date: 30 Jan 96 08:43:27 EST
Subject: Re: Heater thoughts

>> If you have passengers very often, I would recommend installing an auxiliary 
heater in the rear.  I just put one in a couple days ago and its great.  Its a
small box that hooks into the existing heater lines and has a built-in fan...If 
you want some more info, e-mail me and I'll describe the whole arrangement. <<

What did you use for a core. I was thinking of trying this with a old series two
combined core and fan  but haven't found a spare yet. Not that it is really
needed down here.

>> In a pinch, however, a large screwdriver 
(square shaft) with a crescent wrench on the shaft will usually free the plug.
When you replace it, use some anti-sieze, and you'll only have to use the 
screwdriver in the future.

I know, I know, use the proper tool for the job.  But after a while you start 
carrying around so many tools that you run out of room for the cooler! :) <<
 
You actually already have the tool. Try inserting a 9/16" open end wrench
sideways into the slot. Works like a charm. Use the largest wrench size that
will fit. 

I used a Craftsman drag link socket for years until I saw a picture in LRO or
LRW of someone doing it this way. Made me feel like an idiot! Sometimes the
simplest solutions avoid us.

  
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88 "Eloise"
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     EEEI           EEEI

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 30-Jan-1996

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 30 Jan 96  8:44:22 EST
Subject: Series - Boston Area US - Anybody got a spare front propshaft?

I have a terminal case of spline death in my front propshaft, the weather sucks 
and no one has any new spares ( and I do mean NO ONE). Anyboy got a spare in 
good condition they want to sell?

   aj"In 2-wheel drive for the present time"r

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk
Subject: Handbrake steering
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 14:03:34 UNDEFINED

>There is more to handbrake steering than the 180s practiced (but never
>perfected) by cretins in McDonalds' carparks. It is possible to very
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>that any idiot can do it. BTW this is not one of my hooligan manoeuvres,
>this occurs on proper stage rallys.

I have happy memories of the wide eyes of the opposition at Harrisons Rocks 
car park (talus surface), when I came in driving my old mini, doing about 40, 
yanked the handbrake and spun it thru 270 degrees to park perfectly, facing 
outwards exactly centred in teh parking space between them and the bus on the 
other side.

They looked a little wobbly when they got out of the car. My passengers were 
used to this sort of thing and just got out, picked up the climbing gear and 
strolled casually off discussing which pub to visit at lunchtime. Multo 
cool-points.........

I used to enjoy this sort of thing when I was a kid..........

------------------------------

Subject: Trade/swap
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 96 09:46:22 -0500
From: Ron Franklin <oldhaven@biddeford.com>

-- [ From: Ron Franklin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

I'm a little embarrassed to post this for what it says about me.  I have two
aircraft projects (1934 and 1935 Fairchild C8C and C8D), that I'd be willing
to trade for a good Series or RR.  I am asking $23,000 as a straight sale,
so it would be nice to swap for something really nice or trade plus cash. 
Projects not wanted as too many is the reason for the sale.  If any of you
are as odd/crazy as I am you know who you are, and can e-mail me direct at
oldhaven@biddeford.com for details, and spare the list any further
distractions. 

--
 
 Ron Franklin
Bowdoin, Maine, USA
 

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 08:54:30 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Series II Insurance

> I've had Rovers insured with Allstate for about 8 years. When I put the '65
 IIa on the road last year they listed is as a 1965 Range Rover. A few other
 people with Allstate have had the same experience. No differance in premiums
 though (!!!!).>

I succesfully insured with Allstate also, but left them when they 
posted my payment to someone elses account, canceled me for 
non-payment (which I didn't find out about for over a month) then 
wanted to put me in the high risk group because I hadn't had 
insurance within the past 30 days. I prefer not to deal with 
companies like that. But, if it's that or no insurance....

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 06:55:40 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: What is a cresent wrench?

At 11:50 30.01.96 +0000, Mike Rooth wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>>crescent wrench. Can someone describe what it does & how it does it. Will
>>my life suddenly be complete if I get one?
======================= What Mike Rooth said in response ====================

Dont see why your life should be any richer than it undoubtedly already
is,but.....its a C spanner.The sort of thing you used to use on a <shudder>
*bicycle*.Also used on some good quality steam fittings.The "nut" would be
round,with grooves along its length.The spanner,shaped like a "C" had a
little lug on the outer end that engaged with one of the grooves.Used before
we found out how to make things badly.On a bike,it is,(or was) used to tighten
or otherwise the nut on the main pedal shaft where it went through the frame.
But what you would use one for on a Land Rover is currently a mystery.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

=============================================================================

Now I'm confused.  I know what a crescent wrench is, and I was under the
impression it was called an "adjustable spanner" in Britain.  The open end
of the tool fits hexagonal nuts or bolts and is adjustable via a worm gear
mechanism that moves the lower jaw closer to (or farther away from) the
upper jaw.  I've heard what we call a pipewrench or monkey wrench referred
to as an adjustable spanner as well, but in my dialect of the American
variant of English a pipewrench's jaws aren't crescent shaped.  They're
straight and have toothed edges designed to grip pipes.  Also a pipewrench's
handles are perpendicular to its jaws whereas a crescent wrench's handle go
off at about 60 degrees from perpendicular.

I don't think either device has completed anyone's life, but they are handy
if you have an incomplete toolbox.

Now if someone could tell me what Whitworths are, and who Whitworth was that
I should be mindful of him maybe my life would be complete.

Cheers!
John
'95 Discovery
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 96 09:50:42 EST
From: bcooper@3wnet.com (Bill Cooper)
Subject: Series Insurance

Hi there,

I don't know if this will help, but I have had my 66 IIa insured through State Farm in New Jersey for the last 8 years or so, and there has been no problem. As for Comprehensive and collision, we have an 'Agreed Value' on the vehicle which is their standard policy for any non-standard vehicle. 

Also, on the main page of the policy, they do list it as a Land Rover, not a Range Rover, so somebody in the company knows what it is.

Hope this helps,

Bill Cooper
bcooper@3wnet.com
http://www.3wnet.com

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 07:20:12 -0800
Subject: Re: What is a cresent wrench?

On Tue, 30 Jan 1996, M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) wrote:

>Dont see why your life should be any richer than it undoubtedly already
>is,but.....its a C spanner.The sort of thing you used to use on a <shudder>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Cheers
>Mike Rooth

Have I been living in tool oblivion for all these years?  Everyone here that 
I've worked with calls what I described (previous post) a crescent wrench...
But I'm not one to get bogged down in nomenclature...

Adjustable wrench, cresent wrench...what's the difference.
Land Rover, Jeep...what's the....sorry, bad analogy.

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 07:20:00 -0800
Subject: Re: What is a cresent wrench?

On Tue, 30 Jan 1996, "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com> wrote:

>Presumably it is a terminology question, but I have never heard or a
>crescent wrench. Can someone describe what it does & how it does it. Will
>my life suddenly be complete if I get one?

A crescent wrench in the U.S. is also known as an 'adjustable wrench'.  It has a 
thumbscrew which adjusts one end of the jaws to fit most any nut or bolt within 
reasonable size ranges.

I'm generally not a fan of these tools when in the shop (plenty of proper size 
spanners available) but out on the trail, or on the other side of the farm, they 
substitute for a whole tool box full.

No, having one will not cause you some mystical revelation :), but its nice and 
handy to have around.

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 07:20:18 -0800
Subject: Re: heater mods.

On Tue, 30 Jan 96, asd1@ukc.ac.uk wrote:
>	Could you please send the details to me as I was as cold as hell
>with the recent weather.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>with the recent weather.
>	Why does'nt the LR heater work in the extrem cold ?
The mice that power it are hibernating!  :)

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 09:22:31 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Polarity change

 Rich Ziegler writes
snip
> flash with a hot wire from the battery.  Also he left out switching 
 the two small leads going to the coil.  Other than these two points 
> he covered the subject well.
snip
If I remember correctly you don't actually have to do it, you car 
will still run, BUT you want to be sure to because your plugs will 
degrade more quickly because bits of metal move in the wrong 
direction when they fire if your polarity isn't right.

This applies also when you disconnect your coil for any reason.  Make 
sure you reconnect the wires to the right terminal.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 09:33:02 GMT -0600
Subject: till we meet again

Well folks, it seems today may be the last day for awhile, assuming 
I've interpreted the messages from Bill properly. It's been real and 
I'll see you on the flip side. Or in the mud :-)

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 09:17:24 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: What is a cresent wrench?

> Presumably it is a terminology question, but I have never heard or a
> crescent wrench. Can someone describe what it does & how it does it. Will
> my life suddenly be complete if I get one?

Yes, your life will be complete, you can ship me your lightweight, 
roll over and die happy. ;-)

Actually a Crescent wrench is an adjustable open end spanner made by 
Crescent. The proper name , here in the US, is an adjustable wrench, 
but Crescent is the most famous so that's what people tend to call 
all adjustable wrenches.

They are also know affectionally as knuckle busters because of the 
effect they have when they slip off the nut (you have to be carefull 
about getting them adjusted to fit properly). As a pipe weldor/fitter 
and iron worker I used them alot because I was always working with 
different sized nuts & bolts and lugging a tool box up a column isn't 
my idea of fun. You really don't need them around cars.

Crescent makes other types of wrenches as well. There are a number 
of mechanics tools on this side of the pond that are similarly mislabeled.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 07:43:49 -0800 (PST)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: What is a cresent wrench?

On Tue, 30 Jan 1996, Mike Rooth wrote:
> >Presumably it is a terminology question, but I have never heard or a
	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
> >crescent wrench. Can someone describe what it does & how it does it. Will
> >my life suddenly be complete if I get one?
 
> Dont see why your life should be any richer than it undoubtedly already
> is,but.....its a C spanner.The sort of thing you used to use on a <shudder>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> or otherwise the nut on the main pedal shaft where it went through the frame.
> But what you would use one for on a Land Rover is currently a mystery.

Ah, the wonders of the "English" language, and all its infinite
permutations.  Here in the (former) colonies, a Crescent wrench has an
adjustable open end, with the working end set off at about a 30-40 degree
angle from the handle, and the jaw forming four sides of a hex, the better
to grab a hex head nut.  I believe it was originally produced by a company
using the name "Crescent" but it has long since come off patent and is
produced by practically everybody.  The outside of the head is rounded,
and with the jaw open resembles a crescent of sorts.  A good one can be 
very useful; a bad one with loose tolerances will quickly round over
every nut it touches.  The same can be said of the users.

Walt          * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
              * Walter C. Swain         | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us       *
              * Davis Community Network | 1988 Range Rover              * 
              * Davis, California       | 1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW *
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 30 Jan 96 11:14:48 EST
Subject: Get the members list!

If the LRO list doesn't come back up, it might be something you want to have.

You can get it from majordomo.

I have it - you thought I'd let you all get away that easily? 
BWAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHaaaaa.....

    aj"Till then"r

------------------------------

From: Susan Dykstra (ArtSource) <a-susdy@microsoft.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 96 09:27:51 TZ
Subject: Selling my Defender 90...

I have a blue 1994 Defender 90 with a safari cage and extra back seat.  
I has 22,000 miles on it and I'm selling it for $26,000.  It's in 
perfect condition.  If you are interested, or know of someone who is 
looking for a Defender,   I'm at   a-susdy@microsoft.com    - that's 
Seattle, Washington.

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 30 Jan 96 13:04:24 EST
Subject: Series Rover Tip: Harmonic noises from exhaust

If you get a "Booming" sound or excessive engine noise at certain speeds, check 
the mounts on your exhaust.

I had this problem, and it turned out that the center clamp on my exhaust 
(under the driver's seat) had loosened, allowing the whole length of header 
pipe and intermediate pipe to resonate. I replaced the clamp (after shearing 
the old one...oops) and the noise was dramatically diminished.

     C U Later -Alan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 13:18:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Selling my Defender 90...
From: "Andrew A. Dallas" <adallas@systemsoft.com>

>I have a blue 1994 Defender 90 with a safari cage and extra back seat.  
>I has 22,000 miles on it and I'm selling it for $26,000.  It's in 
>perfect condition.  If you are interested, or know of someone who is 
>looking for a Defender,   I'm at   a-susdy@microsoft.com    - that's 
>Seattle, Washington.

A "perfect" Defender? Are you sure it's a Land Rover?
-AD

*************************************************
            Andrew A. Dallas
            Full Spectrum Software, Inc.
            360 Market St.
            Suite 18
            Brighton, MA 02135, USA
            (617) 782-9829
            on-site office: (508) 647-2948
            adallas@tiac.net
            http://www.tiac.net/users/adallas/
*************************************************

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 13:23:04 -0500
Subject: Land Rover Insurance

>I've had Rovers insured with Allstate for about 8 years. When I put the '65
>IIa on the road last year they listed is as a 1965 Range Rover.

Be very careful with insurance companies, when I had a '79 BMW 635csi (a car
that was not sold by BMW North America) my insurance company insured it as a
633csi.  This was fine with me and I never had any problems.  After I sold
the car I heard about a guy with a BMW 323i (another model that was never
sold in the US) that had his car insured as a 318i, the insurance company
paid what a 318i was worth (thousands less) when it was stolen.  A few years
later I had the chance to buy a 323i I made sure to have the car appraised
and pay (extra) for a "stated value policy".  I won't go in to details but, I
totaled the car and Farmers Insurance Company offered me 50% of my "stated
value".  I am not the only guy who has had this problem, in the November '95
BMW club magazine there was an article "Stated Value? Hah!"  It wouldn't
surprise me if an insurance company offered to pay a Series owner that has
his vehicle insured as a '65 Range Rover the value of a '65 Range Rover (They
don't exist = $0).  Moral of the story If you own a car that is not in the
Blue Book or if you policy does not list the exact model you have ask a lot
of questions and get every thing they say in writing.

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: SLYKDYK@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 13:40:05 -0500
Subject: flooded Disco

  Had my Disco flood on starting while I was at 9700 ft above sea level and
the temp was @ 0 f. The service rep at the California dealer talked about
pulling plugs so cylinders could dry out if flooded badly!!! Not my idea of
fun at those temps. Called the dealer in Colorado Springs...They said
disconnect the electic fuel pump at firewall where there is a roll over
switch and the pump engine out with the starter for a short period of
time...reconnected the pump and it fired right up.Never had to do this again
but you folks with efi and electric pumps might keep it in mind..

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 96 12:00:06 -0800
From: Jimi Patel <jimi@voyager.Jpl.Nasa.Gov>
Subject: Re: import/export company

>From jimi Fri Apr 21 14:45 PDT 1995
	id AA12378; Fri, 21 Apr 95 14:45:46 -0700
Date: Fri, 21 Apr 95 14:45:46 -0700
From: Jimi Patel <jimi>
Full-Name: Jimi Patel
Cc: jimi@voyager.jpl.nasa.gov
Subject: import/export company
Status: RO

Hello All,

I am in process of importing my L/H BMW 502 Super V8 [1959] into U.S. 
[California/Los Angeles] from my beloved England.

Does anyone know a reputable import/export company??? Any help would
be much appreciated.

Many Thanks,

Jimi Patel

1985 Range Rover
1995 Suburban
e-mail jimi@voyager.jpl.nasa.gov

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 13:28:18 -0800
From: smthengr@sirius.com (Jeff Smith)
Subject: Intoduction/Disco accessories

Hello everyone:

I am new to the list. I am also a new Owner of a 1996 Discovery my first
Land Rover.
My favorite mail group is the euro-moto list for european motorcycle
enthusiasts. I Own a 1987 Moto Guzzi LeMans 1000 SE.

Does anyone know of a good source for after market accessories, other than
those sold by the dealers. In particular I would like to find some running
boards that look more like the ones on a Ni***n P*th***der as well as a
push bar/brush guard. I also am interested in finding a trailer setup to
pull my Moto Guzzi. 

I live in San Francisco, but mail order is no problem, if it is the right
thing. I would be happy to post my impressions of the new Discovery if
anyone is interested.

Lastly, does anyone know the availability (in the US) and price range of
the 1984 90 inch Pick up?
Regards,

Jeff Smith. S.E.
Chair SEAONC Computer Applications Committee
phone: (415) 543-8651
fax: (415) 543-8679
email: smthengr@sirius.com

Smith Engineering
27 South Park
San Francisco, CA 94107

------------------------------

From: ChrisF6724@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 15:33:27 -0500
Subject: re: insurance

I am currently using State Farm.  They could not find Land Rover listed on
the computer, so they checked under "Rover".   According to them, my primary
car is now a '73 Rover.  I think my rates are somewhere around $320 every 6
months. (Anyone know if this is high?, it doen't seem like it to me...)  I
don't think it will cover "off-road" accidents though... BTW age 28, married,
no accidents, multicar, $500 deductable, full coverage.

Chris Fisher,  '73 88 Series 3
Fisher Associates Architects and Engineers
Denver, Colorado

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 14:50:19 -0500
From: Shaun Carrigan <shaunc@infi.net>
Subject: Rear window defroster

Anybody ever fix a rear window defroster? I'm no electrician, but it =

seems like it would either work or it wouldn't. Yet mine works on a =

couple of wires near the top of the window, skips a wire, works =

again on a wire and then =8B this is the part I really don't =

understand =8B heats up a short section in the middle of a wire, with =

no apparent resistance on either side of it. This leaves me rather, =

well, foggy...

Thanks for your thoughts, and thanks for the many responses to my =

recent post about electric seat switches. I fixed mine with a can of =

tuner cleaner and sent the $100 replacement back to Atlantic =

British.

Shaun Carrigan
'88 RR

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 16:07:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Series: Re: Heater thoughts

How about using one of the 12 v ceramic heaters I've seen in catalogues
advertised as Back Seat Heat at around  $ 90.00 have seen another similar one
at $ 49 from Northern Hydraulics....wonder if they would be able to do the
job...

                                                                        Rgds,
Steve Bradke

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 96 16:24:05 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Intoduction/Disco accessories

To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Hello everyone:

I am new to the list. I am also a new Owner of  my first
Land Rover.

Hey, nice to meet you. 

Try ROvers North 802-879-0032 in VT.
or Atlantic British 800 533 2210 in NY

I'm not sure but maybe British pacific in Burbank, CA 800 554 4133

Nice knowin' ya, and everyone else too.

Cheers
Dave

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 14:42:36 -0600
From: Insoo@ceramatec.com (Insoo Bay)
Subject: stuck in Tahoe/4wd system

Hi all,
I posted this message 1/27/96 but I believe many of us did not receive the
full list.  So I post here again (I would really hear the answer).

Question was:

I still have a question to be solved.  Are most 4 wheel engaged part time 4
wheelers and center diff locked full time LRs same 4wd mechanism (ex, 50-50
torque split)? I think they are.  Then, what would be the superiority of LR
products in terms of drivetrain?  For example, do LRs still have better
system in packed snow road, or muddy terrain (assume it does not need
suspension travel)?

Please excuse my ignorance.

Happy Rovering!

Insoo
95 Red 5spd Disco (Mistress)
Salt Lake City, Utah, USA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 16:49:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear window defroster
From: "Andrew A. Dallas" <adallas@systemsoft.com>

The defroster in many cars is an electrically conductive paint applied to 
the window. The paint has a certain electrical resistance which causes it 
to warm when current passes through it. The warming paint then causes the 
window to warm.

Frequently these defrosters get scratched. The scratch causes the circuit 
to be broken. If the circuit isn't complete, current doesn't flow through 
it and the paint doesn't warm.

You can find paint to repair these scratches in most auto parts stores. I 
haven't used any so I can't suggest a manufacturer.

BTW. I'm jealous of your even limited ability to defog. My Defender has 
the post snow instant fog option with no defogger.
-AD

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Anybody ever fix a rear window defroster? I'm no electrician, but it =
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 28 lines)]
>Shaun Carrigan
>'88 RR

*************************************************
            Andrew A. Dallas
            Full Spectrum Software, Inc.
            360 Market St.
            Suite 18
            Brighton, MA 02135, USA
            (617) 782-9829
            on-site office: (508) 647-2948
            adallas@tiac.net
            http://www.tiac.net/users/adallas/
*************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 96 16:56:26 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Perfect Land Rovers

A "perfect" Defender? Are you sure it's a Land Rover?

Actually its probably just one with no electrics. There's also a perfect Disco 
available (no steering column) and a Perfect Range Rover (no gas tank) Oh yeah, 
and the perfect Series (no Previous Owner)
OK that's it.

Ciao.
Sayonnara (sp?)
Adios
Au revoir
BYe
Cheers
Toodles

Alright that's enough melodramatic crap. The list is coming back. Don't worry. 

Latex

Dave

------------------------------

From: "Joe Manickam" <JoeM@hesston.edu>
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 17:05:00 -600

Greetings from Hesston Kansas!  Wondering if there would be anyone
out there from Hong Kong that could help me out.  My wife and I are
planning to visit Hong Kong in a few weeks and have some questions. 
Please respond to my personal address at <joem@hesston.edu>.  I look
forward to hearing from you.  Take care and God Bless.

                                          Shalom,  Joe Manickam

JoeM@Hesston.edu
340 S. Main
Hesston, KS  67062
USA
(316) 327-3137
1963 109 pick-up

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 96 18:08 EST
From: "Shari M. Judy" <0004297420@mcimail.com>

-- [ From: Shari M. Judy * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] --

Unsubscribe land-rover-owner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 16:45:58 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: rover rentals

Does anyone know of a rental  co. in Jolly olde england-e that might have
either RR or Discos for rent? I'm going in may for a month and would like
to rent something that i know well as driving is somewhat hectic over there!
thanks! tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 19:19:23
From: DRead@gnn.com (David  Read)
Subject: Series IIa Side lenses

A few days ago there was a flurry of msgs regarding how to remove the 
side lenses in "later series". I read these with interest 'cause I have 
a '71 SIIa (TKACHNC) with a burned out side light. 
I don't remember who described how to remove the lens but the method 
was to *carefully* pry the rubber seal...etc. Well, I started to 
*carefully* pry the seal and it *slowly* started to tear. I assume that 
this seal is original and will probably give its all before it allows 
the lens to be removed. 
Does anyone know if the just gaskets (seals) are available anywhere? I 
checked the catalog I got from Atl. Brit and the only thing they have 
is a complete lamp assembly (actually, they sell them in pairs, 2 for 
$22). I haven't yet checked w/RN.

Thanks in advance,
David

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 19:33:55 -0500
Subject: Re: stuck in Tahoe/4wd system

In a message dated 96-01-30 17:02:35 EST, you write:

-I still have a question to be solved.  Are most 4 wheel engaged part time 4
-wheelers and center diff locked full time LRs same 4wd mechanism (ex, 50-50
-torque split)? I think they are.  Then, what would be the superiority of LR
-products in terms of drivetrain?

With a part time system in 4wd, or a full time system with center diff
locked, the front rear torque split varies depended on the relative loads on
the front and rear tires. In this case think of your propshaft as one
continuous length of (flexible) tubing. If the front tires are on wet glare
ice, and the rear tires are on dry pavement then the torque split is 100%-0%.
Reverse your LR and the torque split is 0%-100%.

With the center diff locked a full time system has no advantage over a
part-time system due to the type of transfer case. BUT with a full time
system you don't have to continually decide when to shift to 4wd because
conditions are deteriorating, and when to shift to 2wd because traction is
improving. Also vehicle stability may be improved on marginal traction
surfaces. Only when conditions are really bad and locked center diff. is
necessary are the systems equal.

David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 16:29:17 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Enough!

At 12:42 PM 1/30/96 -0800, Sue Bernard <bobnsueb@maxinet.com> wrote:
>Michael, what I'm trying to figure out it why you ask Bob and Scotty all
>these questions???

 Frankly, Sue, it's none of your business!  Bob and I wrote each other
 occassionally, and he even answered this latest email you posted (should
 I post his reply too? :) .  If he doesn't care for my email or questions
 I'm sure he's man enough to say so...  aren't you Bob?? 

>Perhaps someone else can give you a satisfactory answer since you seem to
>think both Bob and Scotty talk in circles, so I'm posting your latest
>message to Bob to the Left Coast List with this thought in mind.

 Well, this is definetly a first.  I know you share a mailbox, and most
 likely read each others mail, but why you publicly post 'private' mail to
 another individual is beyond me.  Between this and the latest LROA fiasco
 you drew me into, I can only conclude that your medication has lapsed.
 Out of pity to you and deference to Bob, I'll restrain myself from
 further comment, except to say that deleting your further email messages
 is easy enough, while having the members of the LROA in these trying
 times dominated by your unpredictable siamesian schizophrenic personality
 is another matter.

>Cheers,

 I don't think so, and you shouldn't either.

                          ______
 Michael Carradine        [__[__\==                     Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900             [________]                        Land-Rover 4x4
 cs@crl.com  ___________.._(o)__.(o)_____...o^^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88)
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

>Sue Bernard
>----------------------------
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 89 lines)]
>> _______________________________________________________________________
>> Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page:   http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

From: KROPP_J@CC.DENISON.EDU
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 19:56:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: looking for a rover

Hello,
	I am looking for a 1969 or earlier IIa or III.  Basically looking for 
and everyday vehicle that I can fusts around with.  Want it to have a solid 
frame, good body panels, good interior and good engine.  I am willing to put 
some work into it but nothing to major.  Right now, I lack the resources of a 
garage.  Want it fully runnning and able to be driven home.  Also willing to 
have a frame put in it as long as everything else is in great shape.  I 
realize I'll probably be spending a certain amount whether I buy it or put a 
new frame on it.
Hope you can help,   Kropp_J@Denison.Edu

------------------------------

From: Bombdiver@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 20:17:58 -0500
Subject: Unimog

That interesting Unimog that you saw with the front-end loader and the
folding bucket in the back is known as the C-Tool.  It's used by Army for EOD
work as well as combat engineers.  It'll do anything from excavating buried
ordnance to making the perfect size foxhole.  The Army has an instructional
course located at Redstone Arsenal.  The Navy doesn't use it because you
can't fit it into a Zodiac and it's not airdrop capable.

Cheers,

Andy

------------------------------

Subject: Fwd: Trade/swap
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 96 20:58:16 -0500
From: Ron Franklin <oldhaven@biddeford.com>

-- [ From: Ron Franklin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

Date: Tuesday, 30-Jan-96 09:07 AM

From: Ron Franklin             \ Internet:    (oldhaven@biddeford.com) To:  
lro@land-rover.team.net  \ Internet:    (lro@land-rover.team.net)

Subject: Trade/swap

I'm a little embarrassed to post this for what it says about me.  I have two
aircraft projects (1934 and 1935 Fairchild C8C and C8D), that I'd be willing
to trade for a good Series or RR.  I am asking $23,000 as a straight sale,
so it would be nice to swap for something really nice or trade plus cash. 
Projects not wanted as too many is the reason for the sale.  If any of you
are as odd/crazy as I am you know who you are, and can e-mail me direct at
oldhaven@biddeford.com for details, and spare the list any further
distractions. 

---

--
 
 Ron Franklin
Bowdoin, Maine, USA
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 18:06:43 -0800 (PST)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: looking for a rover

So where is denison.edu?  Good luck on that pre 1969 Series III.  And is 
your search worldwide?

wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us

On Tue, 30 Jan 1996 KROPP_J@CC.DENISON.EDU wrote:

> Hello,
> 	I am looking for a 1969 or earlier IIa or III.  Basically looking for 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> realize I'll probably be spending a certain amount whether I buy it or put a 
> new frame on it.
> Hope you can help,   Kropp_J@Denison.Edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 21:30:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Lucas lamp parts

All,

> Does anyone know if the just gaskets (seals) are available anywhere? I 
> checked the catalog I got from Atl. Brit and the only thing they have 
> is a complete lamp assembly (actually, they sell them in pairs, 2 for 
> $22). I haven't yet checked w/RN.

    My favorite source for Lucas lamp parts is The Roadster Factory in
    Armagh, PA.  (Can you tell I used to own Triumphs?)  They have
    original Lucas parts where possible, and "British Motor Heritage
    Approved" repros where necessary (complete with original Lucas part
    numbers for you purists!)

    If you know your part numbers, call 800-678-8764
    If you need part number assistance, call 800-234-1104
    Worldwide fax ordering is 814-446-6729

    (Things go smoother once you have an established customer number
    with them...)

    I will list the lamp part numbers here for reference.  Also note
    that many other parts (generator, starter, etc) are nearly identical
    to Triumph or MG equivalents, often differing just in the drive gear
    or pulley or whatever.  Bush/brush/bearing type parts are cheap and
    identical from these guys.

    POINTED LENS PARTS:
    	-- LU54581622	Clear lens
    	-- LU54581651	Amber lens
    	-- LU576105	Rubber body (short) [this is the "gasket" part]

    FLAT LENS PARTS:
    	-- LU54583038	Clear lens
    	-- LU575003	Rubber body (long)

    COMMON PARTS:
    	-- LU572734	Chrome rim
    	-- LU54584780	Bulb holder plate, single filament (typical for LR's)
    	-- LU576985	Bulb holder plate, dual filament (get creative!)

    When I got my truck, it had no front marker/signal lights.  I put
    together a set from these very parts, with clear pointed lenses for
    marker lights and amber pointed lenses for turn signals.  I have
    also seen original Series II/IIA LR's with amber pointed for signals
    and clear FLAT for markers.  Whatever trips your trigger!

    Hope this helps someone...TRF is a great company, in my experience.

    Duncan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 22:01:37 -0500
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Re: Rear window defroster

At 02:50 PM 1/30/96 -0500, you wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Anybody ever fix a rear window defroster? I'm no electrician, but it =
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 30 lines)]
>Shaun Carrigan
>'88 RR

Shaun

I saw a response to you saying the wires are painted on the rear window and
it reminded me.

Some years ago VW had a repair kit for their rear defrosters that was not
much more than some masking tape and a tube of paint for repairing breaks in
the wire.

You may find such a kit in a auto parts store.

Good Luck.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport New Hampshire
603-863-7883

PS I too used the tuner cleaner to get my seats running.

------------------------------

From: HMEdwards@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 22:50:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Series: Oil drain spanner

Tim,  

I spent many efforts trying to find what in somes areas is called a
"dogbone", with numerous projections at each end to fit recessed plugs.  No
such luck, Mac tools, Snap On, Sears and JC Whitless all came up with a blank
look.  Even tried tracking down a company which had produced them.  Closed up
shop.  However, the boy and girls at Sears do sell 1/2 inch. open end
wrenches, which when turned on side fit the slot perfectly.  And if it
breaks, they give you a new one.

Harry Edwards
Las Vegas
72 Series III  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 23:15:24 -0500
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Insurance

At 01:23 PM 1/30/96 -0500, you wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>>I've had Rovers insured with Allstate for about 8 years. When I put the '65
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 27 lines)]
>Blue Book or if you policy does not list the exact model you have ask a lot
>of questions and get every thing they say in writing.
>Kevin Kelly

As an insurance agent I know about stated value.  It is not worth the extra
you get charged for it.  The Stated Value endorsement to an auto policy (and
there may be some variations state to state) says it will pay the LESS of
either the stated value or the actual cash value of the auto.  Think about this:

You insure your auto with the stated value endorsement for $10,000.  You pay
for $10,000 of coverage.
1. Say the actual cash value (ACV) is $5000 (market conditions or it rusted
out etc) when you are totaled or what ever.  You get $5000 less your deductible.

2. Say it increases in value, it is now worth $15,000.  You get $10,000 less
the deductible.

The regular old, plain auto policy pays actual cash value at the time of the
loss.  The stated value endorsement does nothing for the buyer of the
policy.  It may help the insurance company put a cap on an auto they do not
know.  BUT Land Rovers from 65-70 and from 87 have insurance rating symbols
assigned to determine what companies should charge.

What you want for an endorsement (good luck) is the agreed value
endorsement.  This means they will repair, replace or pay up to the agreed
amount of insurance on the auto.  Fire trucks are usually insured this way
since they are well cared for and tend to have very little use for their age.

If you have pictures, receipts etc to justify what you think it is worth so
much the better.

Anyhow, I hope this is of some help and not too confusing and I usually do
not like to talk insurance after work.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover (an insurance symbol of 17 on a scale of 1 to 21)
Newport New Hampshire
603-863-7883

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 18:48:14 -1000 (HST)
From: Pat Guerin <pat@pixi.com>
Subject: D90 Seat Rattle & Hood Latch Update

Aloha from Hawaii!  Just got back the D90 and here's a recap for those 
suffering the same problem:

	1. Passenger Seat Rattling due to cracked seat runner. Replaced 
with MXC5778 (new subframe).

	2. The shop updated the latch assembly and only changed the cable 
due to the wear and tear it took until then.  Now it works like a charm.  
Gee now I can use two fingers :)

We now have about 18K on the odometer and no other problems to report.  
Aloha for now...

pat

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 21:51:52 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: What is a cresent wrench?

>Presumably it is a terminology question, but I have never heard or a
>crescent wrench. Can someone describe what it does & how it does it. Will
>my life suddenly be complete if I get one?

Crescent wench (n) A babe from Turkey.

(Opps... wrong book)

Crescent Wrench (n) An adjustable spanner. Comes in Metric, SAE and
Whitworth sizes.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 21:51:51 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Polarity change

Rich Ziegler replies...

-     Ashley Horn asked for instructions on reversing polarity and 
-Mike L. replied.  But, he flashed the wrong terminal on the 
-generator.  Instructions I have in hand and have successfully used 
-for years say the smaller terminal (field terminal) is the one to 
-flash with a hot wire from the battery.  Also he left out switching 
-the two small leads going to the coil.  Other than these two points

Thanks, Rich... Somewhere around here I have real Lucas instructions on how
to polarize a generator. They came with a rebuilt generator for my Triumph.
But it's been a while and the old memory is missing a bit or two...

And, I completely forgot about the coil polarity. Not a major point, but you
will get a hotter spark if it is connected correctly. One of my books show
checking the spark by bouncing it off a lead pencil. You can tell if the
coil is connected correctly based on the color and direction of the spark on
the lead... (WARNING!! All you kids with Discos and Rangies... don't be
trying this with your Mont Blanc pens!!)

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

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