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1 jgoldman@acs.bu.edu 29Removing SIIA sidelights...
2 Lloyd Allison [lloyd@cs.25SW on tray, "110" tray
3 Yrjo.Makinen@picker.fi 33Range Rover steering box
4 newconcept@tcp.co.uk (Da32Re: Removing SIIA sidelights...
5 newconcept@tcp.co.uk (Da32Re: Towing limits
6 Mark Murphy [Mark.Murphy15ECUs and Rob Emmins
7 "Bobeck, David R." [dbob24Re[2]: Steering Wobble
8 Ron Franklin [oldhaven@b47[not specified]
9 hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.co24Oxygenated Fuels
10 rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A16Re: The Rover Rift
11 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@AE.AGE26Re: Removing SIIA sidelights...
12 "Tom Rowe" [trowe@AE.AGE24ADM


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From: jgoldman@acs.bu.edu
Subject: Removing SIIA sidelights...
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 02:40:49 -0500 (EST)

	Well, after tracing the previous owners funky wiring job to the rear
of the rover, I managed to get all the lights back there working properly

sidelight, for example). The beast will eventually be totally rewired. Thanks
to someone on the list (sorry, I've temporarily forgotten your name) for the
recent bit on re-wiring. That's prompted a decision to do a complete custom
rewiring job, as the current state of things is quite sorry. In the meantime,
I search out what's going on with the front of the vehicle. In doing so, I've
removed all the lights save two. Here's why...
	How do you remove a late SIIA glass sidelight lens from a front wing?
It has no retaining screws, the glass bowl itself does not screw off, and it's
currently stumping me. I'm sure it has something to do with that chromed
bezel, but I don't want to ruin the unit finding out. Anyone? It's rather
small, and inconsequential, but even more frustrating... 

	While I'm at it, what's the best way of replacing or fixing specific
panels on the rear tub? My left side seat box has some not so neat gouges in
it.
	Thanks...

							Jeff-->

E-Mail: jgoldman@acs.bu.edu

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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 20:36:19 +1100 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: SW on tray,  "110" tray

There is/was a 110 in LROC(Vic) that started off as a LWB HT (I think)
and now sports a SIII stn wgn body -
you look at it and think something is wrong but it takes time to
work out just what is wrong.
There are extra things on the s/w chassis, round the middle, to support
the different floor.  Should be easy to fabricate.

I think that the "110" cab chassis that have trays fitted are 127" w.base.

Australia Day Parade Melbourne:
   various S1s (and Jeeps, Ford GPW, Gypsy, Champ, GAZ, etc...)
   including what the owner says is a ......
   S1 LightWeight !
   his records show that it was one of eight that got
   to the oz army and that they were used in Korea.
   It had LW-like wings (remade ... hmmm), S1 axles,
   no door hinges, no doors not even removable ones!
   I have heard of similar device in Canada - any news of them in `.ca' ?

Lloyd

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From: Yrjo.Makinen@picker.fi
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 13:22:20 +0300
Subject: Range Rover steering box

Hello Everybody,

Recently, by mishap, I drove my `79 Rangie over a chunk of ice about 
size of a brick.  Resultant 'thunk' was tremendous and for a short while 
I was sliding sideways. I think that only right front wheel passed over 
the chunk. At the time I was doing about 60-70 kph. Immediately after 
this incident I noticed that there was certain (new :-) vagueness in the 
steering.

Upon inspection I found that all steering joints and suspension bushes 
were OK. The backlash  was in the (power)steering box and I was, 
following the instructions in the LR-manual, able to adjust it within 
specifications. Also the handling was restored. Well, perhaps, there is 
_sligthly_ more feedback from the steering than previously. I'm not 
sure.

Has anybody else experienced this kind of 'sudden backlash', which 
can be adjusted out,  in the steering box? I could understand it better, if 
I had just broken the box. That's technical point of view, financially 
I'm happy with not breaking the box.

Is it likely that this incident caused permanent damage to the steering 
box?

And yes, I know, I should watch where I'm going...
 
Yrjo J. Makinen

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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 12:17:55 GMT
From: newconcept@tcp.co.uk (David Olley at NEW CONCEPT)
Subject: Re: Removing SIIA sidelights...

>How do you remove a late SIIA glass sidelight lens from a front wing?
.................... I'm sure it has something to do with that chromed
bezel.......

You are right Jeff.
I didn't know this type of lamp was used on this model, but it sounds
exactly like the ones used on Minis for years. Just pry the outer rubber
away from the bottom of the chrome bezel with a small screwdriver. Continue
round the bezel until it is free to fall off.
Then do the same to the rubber lip around the glass bowl. The glass bowl
will then fall off, and if you don't catch it, will smash.
The horrors inside will then be revealed. You can attempt to remove the
bulb, but will no doubt find that it is corroded into the holder. The three
securing screws (or rivets) can be removed or drilled out, enabling you to
remove the unit for repair or replacement.
Replacing the bowl and bezel is a fiddly reversal of the above.

Cheers 

David Olley
............................................................................
.........
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
............................................................................
.........

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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 12:18:04 GMT
From: newconcept@tcp.co.uk (David Olley at NEW CONCEPT)
Subject: Re: Towing limits

>>Hi all, I thought the towing limits quoted by manufacturer had
>>nothing to do with safety, all about pulling power.

One of the significant factors in towing limits for a particular vehicle
have to do with the distance from the rear axle to the tow hitch. The
greater this distance (and on a Series Landy it is very short) the lower the
safe towed weight.
This was illustrated to me when towing my 1 tonne sailboat behind a Saab
900. This car has a considerable rear overhang and front wheel drive. Having
to brake suddenly to avoid a lorry, the front wheels of the car started to
wave in the air and braking was very much reduced - I nearly hit the lorry.
What happened was that the sudden braking of the rig caused the boat and
trailer to transfer a lot of weight onto the tow hitch, lightening the load
on the front of the vehicle. On a trailer with one or two axles near the
centre of the trailer this can easily happen (not so on a close coupled
unit, with axles at each end), and is therefore very hazardous. The Landys
make good towing vehicles because of this short overhang, even though they
are not very powerful.

David Olley
............................................................................
.........
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
............................................................................
.........

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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 05:51:32 -0700
From: Mark Murphy <Mark.Murphy@evolving.com>
Subject: ECUs and Rob Emmins

A week or so back, someone posted a message about Discovery
ECU code and Rob Emmins. Do you have a current email or snail
mail address? I would like to learn more about the Discovery
ECU, both how it works and possible upgrades.

thanks,
Mark Murphy
mmurphy@evolving.com
1995 Discovery
Denver, Colorado

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Date: Fri, 26 Jan 96 08:32:25 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Steering Wobble

With truck jacked up, grab top of tire and pull and push in and out.  If it
moves more than a very very small amount, your bearings or swivels are worn
as TeriAnn said.  Have someone apply the foot brake and repeat the
pushing-pulling test.  If the movement goes away, lucky you, it's likely the
bearings.  If the movement remains, boo hoo, it's likely the swivels.  Parts
cost to replace all bearings and rebuild swivels on front axle bilaterally
is about $300.  If that's your problem email me and we'll talk, since I did
it a couple months ago and can suggest what not to do.

John is right, but it takes an awful lot of wear before the swivels get that 
bad. YOu really do need to check the preload on those puppies to see if they're 
really holding up. If the preload is too low then you can probably pull out a 
couple of shims from underneath the top pin and tighten everything up. If the 
pin is loose enough that you can move the wheel back and forth "more than a very
very small amount" then you need to replace the railco bush in the top of the 
swivel ball. I did mine too but John did his more recently, so call him:-)

Cheers
Dave

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Subject: Re: ADM Rant
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 96 08:43:21 -0500
From: Ron Franklin <oldhaven@biddeford.com>

-- [ From: Ron Franklin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

-------- REPLY, Original message follows --------

> From: Alexander P. Grice       \ Internet:    (rover@pinn.net)

> Subject: ADM Rant
>.  I've just had my *third* vehicle in six months succumb 
> to MTBE (methyl tetrabutyl ether) the "oxygenated" additive now in *all*

US 
> gasoline.
.  Now a borrowed  Buick has
> died with the same symptoms.  While
> I haven't seen the innards of the latter two, the Rover's seals  and O-
ring
> were definitely degraded by "aggressive" oxygenated fuels.
 

-------- REPLY, End of original message --------

Could you please fill us all in on the symptoms which led up to the deaths? 
My SIIA uses this fuel and I've been having problems with carburation
leading to fouled plugs.  I'll be running along at 55 MPH just fine  when
the engine suddenly loses power.  A quick pullover and plug change (I carry
a spare set) solves the problem temporarily, and the plugs which come out
are sooted up terribly.  A check of the plugs 20 min. later shows a nice
light brown color and all will go well for another couple of days, when the
problem recurs. I don't feel this is an adjustment problem (running too rich
).  The engine has behaved beautifully for two years prior to this and has
low miles on a rebuild and a Weber one barrel.  Is this familiar?  As an
aside I can't get my 3HP Yamaha engine to run well on this stuff either.
Thanks.
--
    __                     __  ____                  
   / /  ____ _  ____  ____/ / / __ \ ____ _   __ ___   _____
  / /  / __ `/ / __ \/ __  / / /_/ // __ \ | / // _ \ / ___/
 / /___ /_/ / / / / / /_/ / / _, _// /_/ / |/ //  __// /
/_____/__,_/ /_/ /_/\__,_/ /_/ |_| \____/|___/ \___//_/
 
 Ron Franklin
Bowdoin, Maine, USA
 

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From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 96 08:50:29 EST
Subject: Oxygenated Fuels

All,

Went through this with the dealer when adding the wifey's 
Disco to my 1960 oil-dripper.  The dealer HMFIC called LRNA 
with my concern, since oxygenated fuel is all there is 
during winter 'round here.  Answer was that as long as 
you're using reasonable quality (name-brand) gas, the 
warranty covers it.  Isn't there a fuel additive you can buy 
for when you're forced to use oxygenated fuels?

Agree about ADM, though oxygas is a *different* fraud, I 
believe.  Remind me to read that radical greenie Bob Dole's 
book on how we must save the world from we owl-murderin' 
Series types.  Oops, getting off-topic when I should be 
getting off-road!

Appeasing smiley face assumed,
Hank

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Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 08:49:00 -0500
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: Re: The Rover Rift

I can't remain silent on the Rover Rift, the split between series and later
vehicles.  I used to favor a split.  Now I'm not so sure.  We're all going
to meet and hoist a few at rover rallies, so maybe we should learn to get
along here.  If there is to be a split, then I'd agree with Steve Reddock,
and it ought to be three-way:  Series technical, Coil sprung technical (ECR
guys not withstanding), and General (events, news, etc.).  Still, I'd
rather keep it a single list because one spam is better than three.
-Bob Virzi

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 08:27:40 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Removing SIIA sidelights...

Jeff Goldman asks:

snip
> 	How do you remove a late SIIA glass sidelight lens from a front wing?
> It has no retaining screws, the glass bowl itself does not screw off, and it's
Snip

If it's the kind it sounds like, they are retained only by the 
gasket. Take a very small thin flat blade and slip it under the 
gasket from the direction of the chrome ring and pop out the ring. 
Then the lens should pop out.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 08:35:49 GMT -0600
Subject: ADM

My understanding of ethanol blended fuel is that it reallty isn't a 
problem EXCEPT when you run it in vehicles that have been running 
straight petrol (most autos currently on the road). Straight petrol 
leaves a lot of deposits in your fuel system that just sit there 
forever. Add ethanol and you disolve all that crud and it clogs your 
fuel system, requiring a rebuild. At the very least, if you're going 
to start using ethanol in your petrol, whether by choice or not, I'd 
suggest a complete cleaning of your fuel tank to giet rid of the 
worst buid up.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: Marcus Haas <marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk>
Subject: Alternative list split
Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 14:44:15 +0000 (GMT)

	
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