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From: howtaw@hg.uleth.ca
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 00:41:34 MST
Subject: Heating a Rover

All right, I'm heading into the third week of -20C or worse.  I love my LR
but last week I was riding my bike to school because that was warmer!
Heres the idea, get a 110V inverter and add a 35000 btu kerosene hotshot.
Strap this lot down in the back of the 109 and HEAT like you wouldn't belive.

Question, what is the CO risk? Will I be warm but dead?  I've used this heater
in the garage with not problems.  It puts out so much heat that I would only
run it intermitently while in the Rover.

Any comments?

Andrew Howton
109 2door
109 NADA (parting)
110 2door (building)

PS The LR starts no trouble without being pluged in!  Changing from 20W50 to
10W30 made a major difference.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 20:31:28 +1100
From: haystack@netspace.net.au (Doug McPherson)
Subject: Put SW body on tray chassis ?

Hi all.

How difficult would it be to put a Station Wagon body onto a tray top (or
pick up or hard top etc.) chassis ? ie are the chassis significantly
different ?

Also, did the body panels change significantly between the series III and
the 110 ? They seem very similar except for the front panels and doors.

For Australian readers: I have heard that the local 110 cab-chassis/tray
had a longer wheelbase (ie it wasn't a 110 !)than the other models (SW and
HT). I assume this means that the chassis is different. Anybody know for
sure ?

Reason for asking:110 3.9l Isuzu diesel tray top advertised locally
relatively cheap. Also early TDi trays are cheap ($25k) cf SW (~$32k). I
could live with a tray now, but ultimately want a Station Wagon, so I was
wondering as to feasibilty of putting (cheap!)SIII or 110 station wagon
back-body on back of 110 front body.

Thanks for any info,

Doug.

------------------------------

From: jve@phaseone.dk
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 09:57:36 
Subject: Re: Thank God for the OD

Michael.

I understand why you gnash your teeth when you leave your car at a workshop for 
a whole day to have a 70 cent part renewed. This is the essential "If only I 
could do it myself" case, right?
Well, I used to think of the gearbox as some kind of sacred place, where only a 
skilled mechanic dared to enter. But over the years I have had the "opportunity" 
to get in there a few times. The hard part is really not the actual gearbox 
work, but getting in there in the first place. Once you get inside, everything 
has been soaking in oil (hopefully) since it was put there, so the problems with 
rust and parts sticking together are nonexistent.
If nothing else breaks on the way (please stop laughing everyone !), I would 
think that a couple of days of work with a reasonably equipped toolbox, a 
service manual and a six-pack of your favourite beer could turn the megabuck 
workshop bill into a 70 cent repair.

Jens Vesterdahl
1972 109 sIII STW
Copenhagen, Denmark 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 09:32:25 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: diesel primers

>>I think the Tdi is self priming.Just start up and wait for it to run smooth.
>>Although I haven't seen this in the owner's manual, it does need priming.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Allan Smith
>300Tdi 90
>St. Lucia
Allan,
I got that little gem of info from this month's LRO mag,wherein is an
article on serving your own Tdi Disco.It ses "The (fuel) system is self
bleeding so the engine may run ragged when first started-due to air in the
fuel".This was after renewing the fuel filter etc.So I assume that if the
Disco runs out of jungle juice the same applies.
But certainly if my 2.25 runs out it must be bled.Wont start otherwise.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 04:49:51 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Handbrake steering

>Any idiot can handbrake turn...
  
There is more to handbrake steering than the 180s practiced (but never
perfected) by cretins in McDonalds' carparks. It is possible to very
precisely turn the back end of a car (with a proper hand brake) to
almost any required angle. It is also very useful to make cars turn when
you have gone into corners a tad too fast and all you can get is
terminal understeer.
  
Try it on slicks at 50 MPH through a narrow opening and tell me again
that any idiot can do it. BTW this is not one of my hooligan manoeuvres,
this occurs on proper stage rallys.
  
One point springs to mind: some Citroens & Subarus (and no doubt others)
have a handbrake which operate on the front wheels.
  
Happy Land-Rovering, Steve
  
Steve Reddock                         Product Evaluation, 26/12
Xyratex                  Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450  Int.721-4450
REDDOCK at HVTVM         Internet: Steve_Reddock@UK.XYRATEX.COM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 05:04:17 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: CB aerials

Hi all.
  
I am about to fit a CB into the lightweight (soft top). I have an aerial
location problem. I only need a short range - between a convoy whilst
off-roading. I therefore don't want to remove the aerial when things a
bit wooded.
  
A mag mount won't work the only steel plate is the tank which is in the
rear load space. There would not be enough roof clearance there.
  
A normal fixed mount on the wing would not last long with trees & would
be a real pain while working on it.
  
This leaves two solutions, a normal aerial mounted vertically from the
rear bodywork or xmember or a short flexible rubber aerial mounted on
the inside. The latter would be far and away the most convenient as the
danger of it being ripped off would be almost nill. Even one sticking up
at the back would be in some danger. Esp. when casting.
  
I am not that knowledgeable on radio - I slept through those lectures. I
realise that a shorter aerial will reduce range, but a correctly sized
short one is better than an incorrect length long one. Can you get the
short aerials for CBs, as I have only seen them for normal car radios?
  
Is the impedance of a normal aerial going to harm a CB set if I use it?
All the range I need is a mile tops.
  
Thanks in advance, Steve
  
Steve Reddock                         Product Evaluation, 26/12
Xyratex                  Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450  Int.721-4450
REDDOCK at HVTVM         Internet: Steve_Reddock@UK.XYRATEX.COM

------------------------------

Date: 24 Jan 1996 02:17:41 U
From: "Bill Wright" <Bill_Wright@cpqm.saic.com>
Subject: [1]The Land Rover Owner Dai

        Reply to:   [1]The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Warmest regards from Costa Rica.  I currently plan to return to the office on
January 29th.  If you absolutely need to contact me while I'm on vacation,
both Lynda Houston and Millie Steele have my itinerary and phone numbers.
I'll take action on your e-mail as soon as I can.
Bill
------------------------------

Date: 1/24/96 1:35 AM
From: Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.co

!!! Original message was too large.
!!!
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	  Contents:
  1 PurnellJE@aol.com  Tue Jan 23 03:23   22/1069  Re: Comments
  2 McGou@msn.com      Tue Jan 23 03:54   47/1942  RE: The Land Rover Owner 
  3 cs@crl.com         Tue Jan 23 04:04   34/1409  Re: Thank God for the OD
  4 Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk Tue Jan 23 04:06   40/2034  Re: UK LR meet question
  5 M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk Tue Jan 23 04:47   29/1144  Re: Help
  6 newconcept@tcp.co.uk Tue Jan 23 05:17   33/1475  Re: UK LR meet question
  7 Bill_Wright@cpqm.saic.com Tue Jan 23 05:36  106/5556  [1]The Land Rover
Owner D
  8 Inkornoink@aol.com Tue Jan 23 07:15   30/1329  Re: Used rangies
  9 barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com Tue Jan 23 07:24  
43/2103  re:Stuck Lake Tahoe/D90 S
 10 TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA Tue Jan 23 08:03   40/2194  How could an ally
block o
 11 Mark.Murphy@evolving.com Tue Jan 23 08:07   72/3723  Land Rover Dealers
 12 steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com Tue Jan 23 08:12   42/2050  Opening beer
bottles
 13 barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com Tue Jan 23 08:22  
24/1223  RE:Multi-guage for D90's?
 14 Sanna@aol.com      Tue Jan 23 08:28   24/1643  $$ Dealer Repairs $$
 15 dbobeck@ushmm.org  Tue Jan 23 08:37   25/1274  Re: Opening beer bottles
 16 peter@zditr1.arcs.ac.at Tue Jan 23 08:54   37/1476  Re: Uneven braking.
Stran
 17 Fraser.Young@EEC-ISD.eecal.sprint.com Tue Jan 23 08:59   49/2500  Swaybars
(Anti-Roll Bars)
 18 chrisste@clark.net Tue Jan 23 09:00   21/1019  [1]The Land Rover Owner D
 19 rvirzi@gte.com     Tue Jan 23 09:01   27/1262  sway bars  -  Evil menace
 20 trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU Tue Jan 23 09:05   49/2039  Re: Stuck in Lake
Tahoe
 21 M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk Tue Jan 23 09:05   30/1206  Re: Opening beer bottles
 22 ericz@cloud9.net   Tue Jan 23 09:34   89/4983  Re: Stuck in Lake Tahoe
 23 crash@merl.com     Tue Jan 23 09:36   63/2639  LR's and High Power trans
 24 barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com Tue Jan 23 09:43  
36/1594  re:Land Rover Dealers
 25 peter@zditr1.arcs.ac.at Tue Jan 23 09:44   38/1579  Any tips to overhaul a
SI
 26 crash@merl.com     Tue Jan 23 09:47   36/1537  second capacitor
 27 mloxton@msn.com    Tue Jan 23 10:05   27/1539  Fire with Fire
 28 jcwhite3@well.com  Tue Jan 23 10:09   64/2875  Re: Opening beer bottles
 29 ib011ca@smtpaoc.tsc.state.tn.us Tue Jan 23 10:22   31/1824  Stuck in Lake
Tahoe -Repl
 30 DucNut@aol.com     Tue Jan 23 10:23   34/1470  Re: Comparative Chevy / B
 31 TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com Tue Jan 23 10:25   36/1903  Re: series springs
 32 Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com Tue Jan 23 10:25  
33/1807  Retrieving your stuck LR
 33 velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk Tue Jan 23 10:42   36/1714  Uneven braking. Closing
r
 34 jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us Tue Jan 23 10:45   44/1885  chains and tahoe
 35 trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU Tue Jan 23 10:50   39/1659  Re: Opening beer
bottles
 36 TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com Tue Jan 23 10:56   35/1755  Re: TwoDoorMobile
 37 azw@aber.ac.uk     Tue Jan 23 11:07   39/1809  breaking things with the 
 38 azw@aber.ac.uk     Tue Jan 23 11:12   44/2176  diesel primers
 39 azw@aber.ac.uk     Tue Jan 23 11:12   29/1459  Disco "frozen" in place
 40 dkenner@emr1.emr.ca Tue Jan 23 11:20   34/1603  Re: Opening beer bottles
 41 azw@aber.ac.uk     Tue Jan 23 11:28   27/1330  handbrake steering
 42 azw@aber.ac.uk     Tue Jan 23 11:28   39/1845 
 43 smitha@zeus.candw.lc Tue Jan 23 11:34   34/1355  Re: [1]Warmest regards an
 44 steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com Tue Jan 23 11:35   35/1555  Re: Opening beer
bottles
 45 dbobeck@ushmm.org  Tue Jan 23 11:38   51/2994  Nessie Lives Again
 46 trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU Tue Jan 23 11:44   41/1705  Re: diesel primers
 47 M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk Tue Jan 23 11:49 

------------------------------

From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: LR max towed weight
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 10:36:21 +0000 (GMT)

I have lifted these figures from the LR 90/110 operators manual:

Max towed weight for:
              Unbraked trailers: 750kg on road, 500kg off road
   Trailers with overrun brakes: 3500kg on road, 1000kg off road

4-wheel trailer
with coupled brakes:   (Diesel): 3500kg on road, 1000kg off road
         (Petrol & Turbodiesel): 4000kg on road, 1000kg off road

Trailer nose weight should not exceed 75kg

The manual states that these max permissible weights are derived from
design limits, but points out that towing laws, weghts & speeds vary
from country to country.

Getting the trailer properly balanced for really heavy loads is the
tricky part.
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 21:50:48 +1100 (EST)
From: Dean Cording <dean@holly.aspect.com.au>
Subject: Re: [1]The Land Rover Owner Dai

On Tue, 23 Jan 1996, Chris Stevens wrote:

> >Warmest regards from Costa Rica.  I currently plan to return to the office on
> >January 29th.
> Ah, just six more days until Bill returns!

We should all send Bill an email welcoming him back from his trip on
Monday.  Let him know how much we missed him and how much we appreciated
his little message. 

Dean
 
=============================================================================
Dean Cording                                   ASPECT Computing P/L
                                               86 Northbourne Ave
Dean.Cording@aspect.com.au  (Work)             Canberra, ACT, 2601, AUSTRALIA
Dean@holly.aspect.com.au    (Private)          ACN. 005 083 670

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 10:52:22 GMT
From: newconcept@tcp.co.uk (David Olley at NEW CONCEPT)
Subject: Re: Handbrake steering

 some Citroens & Subarus (and no doubt others)
>have a handbrake which operate on the front wheels.

Saab 90s and 900s likewise. The technique for these cars, as you probably
know, Steve, is to effect "power braking", just like driving an automatic RR
down a steep slippery hill.

By using the throttle and footbrake in a balanced way, it is possible to
lock the rear wheels to create oversteer. It takes practice (and a bit of
nerve) but is great fun in the right conditions (like snow). The famous
Scandinavian rally drivers all mastered this technique, which is why the
early rally Saab 90s were so successful.

I am old enough to have had one of the first 900s when launched, and I had
plenty of opportunities to try the techniques on wintry East Anglian roads.
(It was a company car).

Cheers
David Olley
............................................................................
.........
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
............................................................................
.........

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 22:09:39 +1100 (EST)
From: Dean Cording <dean@holly.aspect.com.au>
Subject: Re: Eyebrows 

On 22 Jan 1996, William L. Leacock wrote:

>  Tim Harrincar aasks about eyebrows for  leaf sprung land rovers,
>  They are available from various sources in the UK, they look crap, specially
> made for series vehicles. the wings can also be easily cut out to fit the Land
> Rover Defender original equipment.

>  On a series vevicle the wheels are normally set well inside the wing ( fender ?
> ) and the fitting of eyebrows tends to accentuate this effect with in IM ( not
> so )HO  making the whole vehicle look very odd.
>  If wide wheels are fitted then it may be both legall and practically necessary
> to fit eyebrows.

My 77 Series III came with factory fitted eyebrows (aka flares) and wide 
wheels as standard.  It is a 'Game' model which was the first 4wd to be 
specifically aimed at the recreational market and, I believe, only 
produced in Australia.  The flares are fibreglass and have stood up to 
twenty years of use quite well.  They are black and contrast nicely with 
the bright yellow bodywork.

Dean 

=============================================================================
Dean Cording                                   ASPECT Computing P/L
                                               86 Northbourne Ave
Dean.Cording@aspect.com.au  (Work)             Canberra, ACT, 2601, AUSTRALIA
Dean@holly.aspect.com.au    (Private)          ACN. 005 083 670

------------------------------

From: Steve Thomas <THOMSE-U@m4-arts.bham.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 24 Jan 1996 11:52:57 GMT
Subject:       

 > are holdovers from the wild west.  In Texas, for example, you used 
 >to be able to drive with an "open container," as it is 
 >euphemistically called.
 Here's a good one. In a suburb of Cleveland, OH, the next one east of 
 Cleveland Heights I think, it's against the law to eat and drive.

 Tom Rowe

That's understandable isn't it Tom? I mean, it'd make a hell of a 
mess of a diner to carry on driving rather than sit down like 
everyone else.
        :)
Steve

        

    /~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
   /~~~~~~~~~~~~||~~~~~~~~~~~~\
 _ ||       /   ||           || _
|-|||_____/_____||___________|||-|
|_||_|________|____|________|_||_|
  /~---__ ______________ __---~\
 |~~~~~~~| /=\|####|/=\ |~~~~~~~|
 | o o   | \=/|####|\=/ |   o o |
 | EAB   |##############|       | Stephen Thomas
 |_836B__|##############|_______| 1964 IIa Diesel 'Andy'
  \____________________________/  0121-452-1405
  |~_-_~|----\___/-------|~_-_~|  Thomse-u@m4-arts.bham.ac.uk
  |~_-_~|                |~_-_~|
  |~_-_~|                |~_-_~| ['Andy' : One wiper down, now looking 
   ~---~                  ~---~            for a replacement :)]

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 24 Jan 96  7:44:40 EST
Subject: Annoying oil usage

This puzzles me.....the case of the disappearing oil.

The 2.25 lump in my 109, after 2200 miles or so, shows no signs of breaking-in 
properly. It's going through oil at about 500 miles to the quart, and this 
annoys me.

The problem is - I can't figure out where it's going.

The plugs are a perfect chocolate-brown color, it doesn't smoke, it's not 
leaking, and the wading port is dry - hence it ain't on the flywheel.

It will soon have proper PCV in place, thanks to Mike Loiodice, and I'm hoping 
this will help by dropping the pressure in the sump by active means.

Any opinions? I'm stuck on this one.

     ajr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 08:25:48 GMT
From: michelbe@praline.net (Michel)
Subject: Re: Brakes, brakes and another problem...

        Hello all, I have finally replaced on Rudolph the broken half-shaft
(sort of blew-up in the diff) and the brake master cylinder with a used one
I snatched for free. Now, I have too good brakes!! I believe that the brake
linings are sort of sticking to the drums. I tried the adjusting nut on the
backing plates and nothing will do. 

What should I do?

Rudolph is a 109 IIA with dual brakes (master and servo from a 88 Ser III)
with independant lines.(half the master for the front wheels, other half for
the back).When I replaced the master, I didn't bleed the system, I just
pumped the brake pedal a few times and it was rock-hard. Maybe that is the
problem. Can someone on the list enlighten me on this. It would help a lot,
I truly don't understand what is going on. When I drive it it stops on a
dime!! Something must be wrong.

OTOH, I was driving to the University the other day and the engine started
to lose power gradually, finally coming to a halt. Could'nt start it at all.
I parked the car, ran to my appointment with a teacher and returned 20
minutes later. Tried to start it, and, guess what, it did! Parked it
elsewhere (read legal) and started worrying. What happened? Will it happen
again? How can I cure the problem? Is there a problem? The engine was fairly
warm (had run for about half-an hour). Can someone, again, enlight me on this??

Thanks a lot, 

Michel Bertrand, Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada

1963 109 PU (Rudolph)
1968 109 SW (ex-NADA)-in the works
1973 88 (21st century project)

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk
Subject: Re: D90 Towing
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 13:17:44 UNDEFINED

>To correct a possibly dangerous bit of misinformation:
>The on-road braked trailering capacity of the NAS D90 is 3500#! *NOT KG!* This 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>wheelbase. In LWB and newbody Range Rover it is upped to 6500# (numbers are 
>for high range). The latter due to the 108" wheelbase.

The figures I've seen in LR brochures hereabouts have the 90 rated as you say, 
with the Disco, RR and 110 rated LOWER!!!

The crucial factor ISNT the wheelbase, it is the REAR OVERHANG. I.e. the 
distance from teh  towing ball to the rear axle. . The longe this distanec is, 
the more twisting moment there is on the vehicle due to nose weight in the 
trailer (in cornering, braking etc). This is smaller on teh 90, so 
it is rated higher. As Ive said before, in teh UK, the 90 and 88 is used as a 
towing platform for heavy loads on farms preferentially to the 109 and 110.

Yuppies never tow anything heavy with Discos or Sloane Wange Wovas anyway.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 16:21:04 -0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: LROC of Southern Africa web page (beta version)

Fellow Land-Roveritis sufferers,

Go and have a look at Sofcom's 4WD clubs page at:

http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/Clubs/ZA/LROCSA.html

and you will see some info on the LROC OF SOUTHERN AFRICA (If you are
interested of course).

Brian Cotton
LROC of SA
SIII LWB TD INTERCOOLED CAMPER  :-))

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 09:21:56 -0500 (EST)
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Steering Wobble

Oh Great Land Rover Owner Oracle of Knowledge, please help me!

My '69 SRIIa 88" SW has developed a bit of shaking in the steering at high
highway speeds (55-60mph). When I turn the wheel it seems to go away, but
soon returns. Is this a steering shock, worn swivel pins, need of toe
adjustment, wheel balancing? Where do I start.

Thanks,

Chris

_____________________________
BCG Corporate Communications
1512 West Joppa Road
Towson, MD USA
Voice: 410-583-1722
Fax: 410-583-1935
E-Mail: chrisste@clark.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 06:37:29 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Heating a Rover

Point it out the rear door and you will have a jet assisted 109.
Probably get another 5 MPH.
I would worry about the kerosene heater. It was not designed
for moving vehicles

Russ Burns

At 12:41 AM 1/24/96 MST, howtaw@hg.uleth.ca wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>All right, I'm heading into the third week of -20C or worse.  I love my LR
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
>PS The LR starts no trouble without being pluged in!  Changing from 20W50 to
>10W30 made a major difference.
Russ Burns
91 R-Rover
94 D-90

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 10:02:48 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Heating a Rover

On Wed, 24 Jan 1996 howtaw@hg.uleth.ca wrote:

> Heres the idea, get a 110V inverter and add a 35000 btu kerosene hotshot.
> Strap this lot down in the back of the 109 and HEAT like you wouldn't belive.

	With that running, the CO problem will be minimal because you will
	need to drive with the windows open.  Kinda like a chap I knew
	here who decided his MGB weasn't warm enough in the winter.  Moved
	the radiator inside the vehicle between the two seats with a big 12v
	fan behind it to blow air forward.  Couldn't leave the windows down
	it got so hot in there.  Enjoy...  (BTW, tell us if you move the
	rad instead...)

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 07:22:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel tank needed

Steve,
The aftermarket front fuel tank doesn't look stock, but I think its as good
as stock and less apt to leak in the future. The price is VERY atractive
compaire to the stock one.  I've had one on my car for 3 years and recently
purchased a second.

This tank, like all tanks come without the siphon tube and sender unit.

Don't forget to order two (2) siphon gaskets because the tank has an
 ungasketed plate on top that I think is for diesl fuel systems.  You will
need a new gasket for the sender unit and it is best to have a fiber washer
for each of the screws on top.  RTV & Permatex decompose in gas (personal
experience & frustrations)

British Pacific was purchased by a guy named Steve a couple of years ago and
there are three people running the company, all British car enthusiasts.
 Steve has been plowing a lot of the profits back into the company to build
up the stocks.  He tries very hard to have the highest quality parts at the
cheapest prices possible.  He stocks genuine parts, OEM parts and aftermarket
parts with known high quality.  

He is active on the West coast Land Rover list.  When he comes across a new
product or supplier that looks good  he normally offers a couple to one or
two gonzo offroaders at near cost for them to try out & report the quality
back to him.

They have become my #1 US source & I check with them before ordering anywhere
else.

TeriAnn
just a satisfied customer - I work for Apple, not BP

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 07:35:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Heating a Rover

There are catalyst propane heaters designed to  be used as an aux. heater in
RVs.  Most RVs are well sealed.

If you have propane aboard I think this would be much superior to other
propane heaters which should only be used in well ventilated spaces.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 10:40:54 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Steering Wobble

Chris laments:

>Oh Great Land Rover Owner Oracle of Knowledge, please help me!
That's a lot more faith than some others have in the quality of info on this 
list...

>My '69 SRIIa 88" SW has developed a bit of shaking in the steering at high
>highway speeds (55-60mph). When I turn the wheel it seems to go away, but
>soon returns. 
Whatever you do, don't speed up!

>Is this a steering shock,
No. Steering shock only reduces feedback from bumps. I don't even have one and 
mine steers fine. 

> worn swivel pins,
Could be. Unless your swivel balls or seals need replacing, try fixing 
everything else first, since this is the most involved and expensive remedy
> need of toe
>adjustment,
Unlikeley. toe in mostly helps with tracking and self centering. Get it done if 
you haven't yet, it's agood idea anyway. Make sure your tie rods anbd ends are 
all tight and have no play before you go in, otherwise you'll never get it back 
quite right.

> wheel balancing? 
According to the guy at NTW this is the most likely cause. Get 'em balanced 
once, good for the life of the tires. If you haven't driven it with the shimmy 
too much then it'll probably go away after balancing, unless it's from the 
swivels, in which case you're back to square one. 

>Where do I start.
Check all your steering linkages for play. have someone turn the wheel back and 
forth a few inches, and you will see if there's any play. Or, if it's as bad as 
mine, you'll hear it.:-) If all's well, then go to alignment and balncing. Don't
go by the book, the toe in amount they give is ridiculous. Just let the guys at 
the place do their thing. Don't forget to balance the spare. Should cost about a
hundred clams for the lot, with lifetime warranty (the tires', not your's) 
etc...

If that doesn't work you may want to try the swivels, which means undoing the 
nuts for the TR ends, taking off the seal, and checking the "opreload with a 
small spring scale. Not abig deal, really, unless you have to replace something 
that involves removing the swivel ball. If you have to remove the swivel ball, I
recommend (after doing it by the book), *just* undo the eight bolts holding the 
ball to the axle casing. Undo the TR ends if you haven't already, and pull the 
whole thing clear of the axle casing, half shaft and all. Then you can bring it 
inside and strip down/rebuild/replace parts as necessary. Call me or email if 
you need help, I've rebuilt my entire front end so I'm quite familiar with all 
the workings.
Cheers
Good luck
Dave

BTW, I have decided not to galvanize my new frame (I think), as it involves lots
of money, hauling around which I don't have the means for, and preperation, as 
well as risk of damage which scares me a little. I am almost ready for 
sandblasting, so if yours is still available please let me know. I'll ahve to 
stop by soon, so we can catch up. Found a broken shock(!) on my ride last night.
What fun.
  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 10:57:02 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Annoying oil usage

To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

This puzzles me.....the case of the disappearing oil.

The 2.25 lump in my 109, after 2200 miles or so, shows no signs of breaking-in 
properly. It's going through oil at about 500 miles to the quart, and this 
annoys me.

Geez, It's only fair to let THEM drink a pint or two for a change...
Dave 

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 07:53:35 -0800
Subject: Re: LR max towed weight

Folks I have a novice trailer puller question.
What does the term "max. towed weight" mean?
Is it the static weight of what you are towing?
Is it the weight on the hitch?
Is it the pull you need to move the towee?

Suppose I had a friend with a 109 four door that broke a lay shaft in the
transmission.  I borrow a car flatbed trailer that has a static weight of
1250 pounds.  A four door 109 weighs about 3500 pounds.

Would the towed weight be 4750 pounds?  Does this mean that a lot of cars
can't tow another car?

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 11:01:32 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Retrieving your stuck LR

Military tow rings, eh?  Where does one find military tow rings other than
by doing a midnight auto parts job on the nearest fort?

Call Rover's North and ask for Lanny. He should be able to help you.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 07:47:56 -0800
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: Please Save Bandwidth

This is in the "sorry to nag" category.  Please try to snip away at previous
messages when
replying to keep the bandwidth down.  I subscribe to just 2 mailing lists
(LRO and
mercedes) and get an average of 100-160 messages a day.  This is great --
the more
discussion the merrier -- but those in similar situations will appreciate
how long it
takes to download.  Any practical snipping will be appreciated.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 15:50:22 GMT
From: newconcept@tcp.co.uk (David Olley at NEW CONCEPT)
Subject: Re: uneven braking

> check out the flexible brake lines: see if they have different INSIDE
diameters.
> Believe it or not, this will lead to nearly the same problem.

There could be a smidgin of truth in this, but for strange reasons.

If there is any air in the system, there will be a greater amount in a
larger id hose. But if there is no air, and the system is filled with an
incompressible fluid, then the id of the hoses will not matter. What would
matter is if the inlet id to the cylinders is different. This would affect
the volume flow to each cylinder and hence the displacement (and amount of
movement). The pressure, of course, would still be the same, assuming the
diameter of each piston is identical.

A larger id flexible hose, however, if of poor quality would increase its id
under pressure to a greater extent than a smaller id. This would give rise
to an imbalance under initial breaking force.

For this reason therefore, it would be a good plan to replace all flexi
hoses with identical OE items. Steel braided hoses can be made up by
reputable hydraulic hose suppliers, and usually at MUCH lower cost than (for
those in Hampshire, England, I highly recommend Hampshire Hose Supplies Ltd
in Southampton, who can make virtually any type of high pressure hose).

They just made up a special 400 bar working pressure hose for me on the spot.

Hope this is not a load of c?!*&

Cheers
David Olley
............................................................................
.........
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
............................................................................
.........

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 08:53:21 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: Re: uneven braking

On Tue, 23 Jan 1996, john hess wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> To go along with the theory of unequal brake cylinders, check out the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
> from home via modem
> Land-
>   -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and Mazda owner!
also, closely inspect ANY rubber line. i had a SAAB that had unequal
pressures and the calipers would not release. hoses looked fine on the
outside but out of desperation they were replaced. I cut them open and
found that the inner lining had collapsed so the diameter was diminished!

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 08:12:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Steering Wobble

----------------------------- Begin Original Text ------------------------

My '69 SRIIa 88" SW has developed a bit of shaking in the steering at high
highway speeds (55-60mph). When I turn the wheel it seems to go away, but
soon returns. Is this a steering shock, worn swivel pins, need of toe
adjustment, wheel balancing? Where do I start.
----------------------------- End Original Text -----------------------------
Chris.

I would begain by doing three things.  One I would have all four wheels
balanced.  They go out of balance as they wear & you may have knocked a
weight off.  Balanced tyres wear longer and provide less stress on your
suspension.  I like to have them balanced just before going on a long trip.
  Ask the person doing the balancing to check the wheels for being true.  My
shimmy was from tweeked wheels.

The next thing I would do is jack up the front of your car and shake the
wheels.  Losseness can cause your wobble and can be caused by  lose front
wheel bearings and worn swivel ball mounts.

Put the car back on the ground.  Have someone slowly wiggle the steering
wheel while you look at each of the tie rod ends.  Both rods connected by the
end shoud move together.  If one starts to move before the other, its time to
replace that end.

The factory manual has a trouble shooting section at the back of each
chapter.  It also says how to inspect parts for wear.  Its worth reading.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 11:27:34 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: $$ Dealer Repairs $$

So...  whadthey charge you?  Was it a $580 job to redo the master cylinder?
 Basically, I got the same story.  The resevoir leaks, but it can only be
replaced as a complete "unit" with the master cylinder.

If its the same as the dual master on a Series Rover, then you have to break the
reservoir to get it off. But it is removable as well as replaceable. i find it 
hard to believe that that its impossible to replace a plastic reservoir on a 
steel or aluminum casting. After all, what did they do, pour the molten metal 
around the plastic?. I doubt it. There has to be a way to get it out, even if 
they have to smash it and pluck up the pieces. The series reservoir fits in with
a metal snap ring, which is very tight, but it DOES come out. Even if it's some 
sort of barbed affair they had to get it in somehow, and the plastic is going to
give before the metal. 

Of course the real trick is whether you can buy the reservoir alone. Possibly 
from RN or elsewhere but probly not from the dealer.

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 09:00:12 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: Re: Damp Disco

On Tue, 23 Jan 1996, Robert Watson (CNA) wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> I was under the rear cargo area carpet and mat the other day and I noticed 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 35 lines)]
>  [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
>     \_/        \_/                            N7UMU

my 87 RR also has this prob. under the rummer mats in the front!!!

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Wed, 24 Jan 1996 16:31:28 +0000
Subject:       Re: D90 Towing

On 24 Jan 96, azw@aber.ac.uk wrote:

> The crucial factor ISNT the wheelbase, it is the REAR OVERHANG. I.e. the
> distance from teh  towing ball to the rear axle. . The longe this
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> is used as a towing platform for heavy loads on farms preferentially to
> the 109 and 110.
One of the LR garages in Scotland (LIX TOLL) has made a bob-tailed 130 for 
precisly this reason.

The vehicle is a crew-cab with the rear hardtop section shortened as much 
as possible.  It looks dead wierd, but will be great for recovery work (he 
also works on lorries and buses :)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

Quote of 1995: "The archididascalus is to be rusticated and will
                cease to be an abecedarian on the 1st of April"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 10:39:09 -0500
From: Shaun Carrigan <shaunc@infi.net>
Subject: Re: Subject: RR Fuel Tank  (was:$$ Dealer Repairs $$)

I don't know how to tell the difference between old and new tanks, but I 
replaced my leaky one about 18 months ago. The dealership informed me it needed 
to be replaced again under the recall. I called LRNA and they assured me I would 
be reimbursed for my first replacement tank (nearly $500 parts and labor). 
However, I haven't received a check yet . . . Anyway, I can see no reason not to 
accept the new tank, regardless.

Shaun Carrigan
'88 RR

> Subject: RR Fuel Tank  (was:$$ Dealer Repairs $$)
> >>  Here's the estimate: gas tank - no charge (they went ahead &
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> replaced a year ago, but I don't know if it was replaced with the new tank.
> Anyone know how to tell?
> Still procrastinating on the Recall

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 16:44:10 GMT
From: newconcept@tcp.co.uk (David Olley at NEW CONCEPT)
Subject: Re: Brakes, brakes and another problem...

>Now, I have too good brakes!! I believe that the brake
>linings are sort of sticking to the drums.

While I am not familiar with dual brake systems on the Landy, I had the same
problem after servicing my master cylinder. It was my fault, of course. Ten
miles down the road, at night, no tools on board, the Landy became sluggish,
brake travel reduced to nothing and then stopped dead.

I had overadjusted the master cylinder push rod nuts (the push rod connects
to the brake pedal linkage) so that the master cylinder piston did not
return far enough to allow for return of fluid from the system. In effect
the master cylinder became a pump with a non return valve. This is what you
experienced. Your engine wasn't losing power - your brakes were going on
harder and harder. After parking, the pressure reduced due to some leakage
back past the seals, leaving you to think that everything was OK again.

Try taking off the brake pedal box cover and adjusting the nuts to allow the
push rod to come further back out of the cylinder (ie move more towards the
bulkhead).

Best of luck - it is at least a quick and simple job.

David Olley
............................................................................
.........
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
............................................................................
.........

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 11:59:01 -0500
Subject: Re: CB aerials

In a message dated 96-01-24 07:30:28 EST, you write:

>A mag mount won't work the only steel plate is the tank which is in the
>rear load space.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>Is the impedance of a normal aerial going to harm a CB set if I use it?
>All the range I need is a mile tops.

I needed to mount a 2meter ham antenna for the road trip on my move from LA
to Wisco, I have a D90.  For the interim I took a  square piece of steel,
about 3x3 inches, and welded a bolt perpendicular, in the center of the
plate.  The bolt was small enough to go through the threads on the tabs.
  Then simply double nutted the little "fly heliport" onto the passenger side
light tab on the top of the safari cage.  It worked great, it's still there,
and the magmount didn't fly around at all.  .  (WHAT are those threads up
there??? I couldn't find a bolt to thread directly into those for the life of
me.  Not metric, not standard...whitworth??, where do you get 'em?  And how
do the lights mount up there? they got the correct threads?)

The little square of steel  isn't much of a ground plane, so I used a 5/8
wave antenna, which if I remember correctly does not require a "reflector"
underneath it.  (Any hams/RF-ers can better explain this?)    I think to be
proper, mounting an antenna on the back caps or anywhere on the aluminum
would require a 5/8 wave because the aluminum won't work as a ground plane...
hams:  is this right?? or is it just that the magmount won't stick, but
you'll get a ground plane so a 1/4 antenna would work ok too?  

Regarding the normal antenna, I have seen combination AM/FM/CB antennas,
maybe you could just buy one of those and not have extras, plus the security
that someone looking at it from afar won't see an extra antenna, and the
concomitant radio to steal.  

I am interested in how you solve this, as I'd like to mount a couple antennas
just inside the soft top, on the rear caps, just bolt'em right on.  If the
aluminum will act as a ground plane, I'd just use the short 1/4 waves too,
since I am not concerned with range.  

John, N9EJC
94 D90, WiscoRover, (go big red)  

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 11:02:07 -0600
Subject: Two Lists

(I'm really just trying to get myself run out on a rail here...)

I've noticed that the size of the daily digest has just about doubled   
since last summer. Up until then the digest seemed to hover around   
50-60K. Now, it seems that the digest is averaging around 80-100K, with   
days going over 100K (1/23 was 116K).

This gets to be quite a lot of messages to go through, and I've been   
finding myself often skipping half just because I don't have time at work   
to read it all.

I know this has been discussed before, and shot down (and I was one of   
the shooters). But I'd like to propose splitting the list. And the   
logical division is Series and post Series.

While most of us, myself included, would subscribe to both, it gives us a   
way to quickly get the information we need. I enjoy reading about discos,   
defenders, and rangies because I am a rover inthusiest, but I *need*   
Series info more than anything. So maybe not every day I'd read the post   
Series list. I would imagine that Disco owners would feel the same.

A lot would also be posted to both lists, such as info about tires,   
travels, or other things of common interest.

So, this is just to start the dialog, because as the net gets bigger,   
something at somepoint is going to *have* to be done - there is just too   
much to read in a day. I love the fact that there are so many rover   
people out there that this is a problem.

Thanks,

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 09:51:30 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: $$ Dealer Repairs $$

On Wed, 24 Jan 1996, Bobeck, David R. wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> from RN or elsewhere but probly not from the dealer.
> Dave
thats the prob. they dont offer a repl. reservoir!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 09:54:29 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: nbeast24.html (fwd)

heres one for all the RR owners!

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 11:48:44 -0600
From: Lynx Annonymous Account <lynx@puffin.cc.ukans.edu>
The Electronic Telegraph  Wednesday 24 January 1996  Home News

   
Bumper night out for the Beast of Brookmans park
  By Eric Bailey, 
   
      [LINK] THE bolts are slotting home a little more firmly and night-time
   trips to the dustbins are being made somewhat gingerly as the
   residents of the Hertfordshire village of Brookmans Park ask
   themselves: just what was it that attempted to eat Madelaine
   Dinsmore's Range Rover?
   
   Mrs Dinsmore had parked the dark green vehicle on her drive close to
   her front door.
   
   Although she and her husband heard nothing during the night, the next
   morning she discovered that the Range Rover had been badly chewed by .
   . . something; something big, with teeth like razors and claws like
   stilettoes.
   
   "It had gone bananas," said Mrs Dinsmore. "There were bits of rubber
   all over the drive. The rubber part of the front bumper, which is very
   tough, had been chewed and shredded.
   
   "There were large muddy paw marks high up on the car and deep
   scratches in the paintwork, so that you could see the metal
   underneath. The bull bars had teeth marks in."
   
   Worst of all, the brake pipes had been chewed through. There was brake
   fluid all over the drive.
   
   "It was quite frightening - something had gone into an absolute
   frenzy. We are concerned because of what might happen to children."
   
   Mrs Dinsmore telephoned the police, who said they could do nothing
   since it was not criminal damage.
   
   So Mrs Dinsmore called Welwyn and Hatfield council, which sent Anne
   Suter, its environmental health animal welfare technician, to
   investigate. She made a video of the vehicle and took plaster casts of
   large paw prints found in a muddy patch on the drive.
   
    "No dog would have had the strength to do this. My theory is that we are
    dealing with a large cat, possibly a puma"
    
   Mrs Dinsmore's theory is that whatever it was might have been after
   next door's three cats, which are partial to curling up on, around and
   under a warm Range Rover.
   
   Her house backs on to open farmland, but she is convinced that the
   culprit was not a fox. That would have too small to wreak such damage
   and would have been more interested in dustbins than a Range Rover.
   
   Other local people believe that, since Mrs Dinsmore's husband often
   takes the Range Rover to stables where he rides, its scent persuaded
   the Beast of Brookmans Park that the object of its attention was a
   horse.
   
   Anne Suter laughed heartily at this idea, but agreed that the beast
   was not a dog or a fox. "No dog would have had the strength to do
   this," she said. "My theory is that we are dealing with a large cat,
   possibly a puma.
   
   "These large cats are out there, we know that. Normally they don't
   bother people. But this one has come very close to the house on a main
   road, and that is worrying." Could it attack a child? "It would depend
   how hungry it is."
   
   About 10 months ago sightings of a large cat were reported on the
   local golf course, but Ms Suter is aware of how easily such stories
   can be distorted - "people were telling us then about a black labrador
   with a three-foot tail."
   
   A number of people in the area are licensed to keep large cats, but
   none is missing.
   
   Today Ms Suter will take the evidence, including the shredded bumper,
   to London Zoo. If the culprit is confirmed as a large cat, she plans
   to set up a baited cage, and to stake out the area with infra-red
   cameras.
   
   In the meantime the local Land Rover dealer has begun repairs. And one
   thing is certain: the Beast of Brookmans Park owes Mrs Dinsmore #700.
   
   8 August 1995: Rug pulled from under Beast of Bodmin find
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
   ET | Front | News | World | Features | Sport | City | What's new |
   Help | ET search | Gazette | Back
     _________________________________________________________________
   
   Reply to Electronic Telegraph - et@telegraph.co.uk
   
   Electronic Telegraph is a Registered Service Mark of The Telegraph plc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 10:00:28 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: Re: Damp Disco

On Wed, 24 Jan 1996, Tebbin Salvesen wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> On Tue, 23 Jan 1996, Robert Watson (CNA) wrote:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
> >     \_/        \_/                            N7UMU
> my 87 RR also has this prob. under the rubber mats in the front!!!

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 11:20:58 -0600
Subject: Two Lists

(I'm really just trying to get myself run out on a rail here...)

I've noticed that the size of the daily digest has just about doubled   
since last summer. Up until then the digest seemed to hover around   
50-60K. Now, it seems that the digest is averaging around 80-100K, with   
days going over 100K (1/23 was 116K).

This gets to be quite a lot of messages to go through, and I've been   
finding myself often skipping half just because I don't have time at work   
to read it all.

I know this has been discussed before, and shot down (and I was one of   
the shooters). But I'd like to propose splitting the list. And the   
logical division is Series and post Series.

While most of us, myself included, would subscribe to both, it gives us a   
way to quickly get the information we need. I enjoy reading about discos,   
defenders, and rangies because I am a rover inthusiest, but I *need*   
Series info more than anything. So maybe not every day I'd read the post   
Series list. I would imagine that Disco owners would feel the same.

A lot would also be posted to both lists, such as info about tires,   
travels, or other things of common interest.

So, this is just to start the dialog, because as the net gets bigger,   
something at somepoint is going to *have* to be done - there is just too   
much to read in a day. I love the fact that there are so many rover   
people out there that this is a problem.

Thanks,

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 11:22:35 -0600
Subject: Sherwin-Williams Paint Codes

  Sherwin-Williams Paint Codes

Hi all,

My chosen auto body shop uses SW paints, and I was wondering if anyone   
knew a code that matches Poppy Red. Of course, they could mix a match,   
but I'd like the true color, even though I know it won't match the rest   
of the truck anyway. i checked the web sites - no luck. If found the   
number for the Centari color, but no mix info.

Any help?

Thanks,

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 09:44:03 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: OVLR's Business Venture

At 05:30 PM 1/23/96 -0500, Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> wrote:
:	Caught!  We only want the stuff between 25 and 15 years old... :-) 
:	BTW, got a phone number?  :-)

 Sean Sinkule <Atlanta67@AOL.COM>, Renewed Traditions can be reached at
 6875 Peachtree Dunwoody Rd NE, Atlanta, GA 30328   Tel.770-392-1593

:	Depends when they got started.  We've been using ours since 1982
:	and variants were around in the ALROC days from 1974.

 Well, I'd say Sean's is an *exact* copy of your vehicle lineup on the OVLR
 masthead, except for scale... and the LR on the right is the same as three
 on the left.  They even have their name in the same space.

 Sean will fax you a copy of his vehicle price sheet, or I can.

 PS-- Don't tell anyone I'm helping you track down these guys... I don't
 want people to think we're getting chummy!  =:o

 Cheers,
                          ______
 Michael Carradine        [__[__\==                     Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900             [________]                        Land-Rover 4x4
 cs@crl.com  ___________.._(o)__.(o)_____...o^^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88)
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 12:44:58 -0500
Subject: Chevy V-6 in my RR

Spoke with my local mechanic about engine possiblilities for my 3.5L 1987 RR.
 He felt that the V-6 Chevy "Vortec" engine would be a great swap.  He feels
that weight would be comparable with the stock engine and that standard
horsepower is about 190.  There are lots of available aftermarket performance
parts, and this particular engine has the roller-cams.  Cost would be under
 $1,500 for him to rebuild a core for me and install.  He says the V-6 Chevy
"Vortec" will easily outperform the 305 V-8 due to the difference in bore
sizes(I guess the bore on the V-6 is the same as that on the 350 V-8.
     My qestion is this; can I get  a conversion kit for the transmission,
and if so, where.  Names and numbers would be appreciated.   If there's
anyone out there who has done such a conversion,  please E-mail me directly.
Cheers!  John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 09:58:30 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Hood Release, '94 D90

On Tue, 23 Jan 1996 DAlberga@aol.com wrote:
> The hood release on my '94 D90 has already gone sneakers-up twice.  The key
> to the issue as I understand it is as follows.  The latch under the hood is
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> cable to work better.  So far it has, but I have'nt needed to use it much
> since it was fixed.  I'm keeping my fingers crossed.  Anyone else had the
> same experience?

Dear David:
  Interesting idea...
  I have a '94 D90 whose hood release cable *hasn't* broken, yet. BUT, my 
hood release handle is on the RIGHT SIDE (passenger side) of the floor 
hump. The handle placement must have been changed to the Left side later 
in the '94 model year. (My D90 is about #432 or so).
  So, has anyone with a '94 with a RIGHT SIDE hood release handle (low #)
had their cable break?

Sincerely,
David

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 12:06:23 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Sherwin-Williams Paint Codes

Back when I bought Sherwin-Williams auto paint, they had the codes in 
their book for all the rover colors. If they don't still, I'm sure 
the S-W factory still has it on record. Have your body shop contact 
them or call a body shop supply house that handles S-W paint, that's 
what I did.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 13:09:24 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: $$ Dealer Repairs $$

On Wed, 24 Jan 1996, Tebbin Salvesen wrote:

> thats the prob. they dont offer a repl. reservoir!
>.
	Though not familiar with the dual system on the 109 or 88's,
	but if they are anything like the master on my Saab, they
	leak around the base of the reservoir in the winter.  The 
	suggested solution from mechanics and garages is to take
	the plastic tiewraps (alternate use:  on wiring harnesses
	to hold them together after replacing one of more of the fusable
	links within) and to hold the reservoir tight to the 
	alloy cylinder.  

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 13:40:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Please Save Bandwidth

In a message dated 96-01-24 11:19:16 EST, you write:

>This is in the "sorry to nag" category.  Please try to snip away at previous
>messages when
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>how long it
>takes to download.  Any practical snipping will be appreciated.

For me, it is worth the download time to have enough of the original message
to understand the point (even at AOL hourly rates--and I'm unemployed!).
 With so many threads ongoing simultaneously I like being able to stay on
point (as much as I can, anyway) to the original thread, and change/alter the
subject line if it gets off on another. 

 Is it possible that you switch to a non-hourly (or flat rate) provider, so
that it won't matter how long the download is?  This would seem easier than
asking everyone on the list to alter their reply-ing technique.

Just IMHO.

John.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 14:02:13 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: Atlanta reseller, GM v8

----- Begin Included Message -----

>From jib Wed Jan 24 13:52:34 1996
Subject: returned mail for lr-list
Content-Length: 1051
X-Lines: 23
Status: RO

Mail error was: 550 <lr-list>... User unknown
--- returned mail follows ---
Subject: Atlanta guy, GM/Rover v8, 

1. DOn't know the Atlanta guy, but I am pretty sure I know his UK connection.
  They do shitty work, but can help you get anything you want, soI heard.
  Except Alice, that is.   
  MOst "regulars" in Hemmings will have UK connections, and will tell you that they
can build to _any_ spec.  I'd love to see the price of the 500 D110 come down :)
 
2. Wdcockey@aol.com wrote:
The stroke was also increased (needs verification). Many parts
were interchangable between the Al V8 and the iron V8. I've heard that the
'64 iron V8 had the Al heads from the Al V8.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Correct. 300 is 3.4 stroke vs. 2.8 for the 215.  '64 is the only year with Al heads,
bigger valves, 4 bolts/cyl (no problem), and 54 cc chamber, vs. 34cc (4bbl version).
That's why I am hunting for the crank and 300 heads :)
Big problems with the 300 oil seal, though:  mods and adaptors required, so is a custom
flywheel.

Jan 

----- End Included Message -----

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 14:18:46 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Damp Disco

Bob Watson has a wet Disco:

What surprised me was:

a) it was wet in the first place. 
Gasp!  Water in a Landy! Someone tell the Queen!

b) that it held water 
That is unusual. Mine usually drains out as fast as it comes in. unless it 
freezes, of course, then it has to wait for the next thaw.

Thoughts?
Actually, its kind of sad considering the price of a plushmobile (J.K.), but it 
is a Rover. Is it possible to fit a lug mat similar to the ones for 
Series/Defender models? Or do you actually want to *stop* the leak? I seem to 
recall seeing a similar thread to this one several months ago. 

Dave "Icy clutch pedal" Bobeck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 14:15:23 -0500
From: RICHARD_COLEMAN@fmso.navy.mil (RICHARD COLEMAN)
Subject: Used Rangies-Sandy's stil looking

         Sandy,

           I agree with Hank--Go For It. That $17k price is
         real good. A local used car dealer(same place I
         bought it) wanted to give me $16k for my 90RR on a
         trade for a 91RR County (beluga black). Asking
         price for the 91 was $23,900. No sale.

                               Cheers,

                               Rick
                               90 RR(the money pit)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 14:21:53 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Disco "frozen" in place...and parking brakes

And to confound matters, in the snow belt here in midwest, it has always been
tenet that you use the emergency brake (cable operated drum type, older rear
drive conventional car type ) always or never, because of the corrosion that
builds up on the directors and pulleys that will eventually snap the cable
unless kept in constant use.

Hence the popularity of the handbrake turn...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 14:30:08 -0500 (EST)
From: John Pertalion <ap12536@xx.acs.appstate.edu>
Subject: Re: Two Lists

I'm all for a Series/PostSeries split of the list.  I own a SII and am 
not interested in the D90, Disco, and RR dialogues.  (Not that they aren't
great folks.)

John Pertalion
'60 SII 88" "Gumdrop"

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 11:53:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Chevy V-6 in my RR

On Wed, 24 Jan 1996, JCassidyiv@aol.com wrote:

>Spoke with my local mechanic about engine possiblilities for my 3.5L 1987 RR.
> He felt that the V-6 Chevy "Vortec" engine would be a great swap.  He feels
>that weight would be comparable with the stock engine and that standard
>horsepower is about 190.  

I would use caution about using a V6 in an off-road vehicle.  I have had 
experience (driving) with both the Vortec, and the Toyota SR5 V6 in 4x4s.  Both 
develop the advertised amount of horsepower but are severely lacking in torque. 
(I understand that this is a natural fault of V6s ?)  

The great thing about the 3.5l V8 is the torque it provides, providing for fewer 
shifts and much better crawling ability off-road. IMHO, a truck drives much 
better with torque down low as opposed to horsepower up high.  Your gearing will 
also need to be changed or you'll be shifting all over the place.

As always, however, YMMV...it would be interesting to see such an instalation.

Eric

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 11:53:19 -0800
Subject: RE: Air Bags

OK, it appears I've started something here.  It has been shown quite clearly to 
me that air bags are not so much a deployment risk while 'normal' off-roading.  
You have to have quite a frontal impact to deploy an airbag normally.  Hence, I 
am a bit red-faced.

The problem of which I spoke has to do with the remote nature of off-roading.  
More than likely, trained rescuers will be a long time in coming, so one should 
know what happens with air bags so they don't become injured themselves.

Also, I am not anti-Air Bag, I have seen them reduce the severity of injuries in 
many cases.  The airbag, like any other mechanism or substance in a vehicle 
needs to be understood so that you can avoid its hazards.

That said, I paraphrase from a New York State Office of Fire Prevention and 
Control safety alert bulletin: air bags.

1. "Air bags are designed to operate only during front end collisions and are 
not designed to operate during rear-end, roll over or side impact collisions."

2. "The mechanism which generated the nitrogen gas uses a very rapid chemical 
reaction involving solid propellants, one being Sodium Azide (NaN4)....This 
mixture is fired by a heat sensitive triggering material which, in turn is 
activated by a closed electrical circuit....."

3. "Sodium Azide is a hazardous material which is widely used in the manufacture 
of explosives.  It can react violently with water (wading of plushmobiles?) and 
burns readily to produce toxic nitrogen oxides...it is sealed in a heavy guage 
metal container located in the center of the steering wheel hub..."

4. The center of an aibag module can be in the range of 300 degrees F, after 
deployment.

5. "The chemical reaction which fills the air bag produces small quantities of 
sodium oxide along with nitrogen gas....The sodium oxide almost immediately 
combines with available moisture to produce sodium hydroxide, which is a caustic 
white powder..."

6. "Air bags can be accidentally deployed due to an electrical short circuit 
while a victim is being treated or extricated from a severely damaged vehicle."

7. "Air bags will deploy during car fires if the triggering mechanism reaches a 
temperature of 350F or higher."

8. "...even though the battery is disconnected, an air bag can still deploy 
should the circuit be completed between the capacitor and the air bag triggering 
device."

Well, those are the major ideas I wanted to share...just think of them if you 
have an accident on the trail...

If there is enough desire for the full report, I can post it for inclusion in 
the FAQ...I just need to find a scanner (I hate typing things in).

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 15:09:56 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Two Lists

I'm all for a Series/PostSeries split of the list.  I own a SII and am 
not interested in the D90, Disco, and RR dialogues.  (Not that they aren't
great folks.)

John Pertalion
'60 SII 88" "Gumdrop"

But John, we have so much fun making fun of their vehicles.

Dave "and vice Versa" Bobeck

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 24 Jan 96 14:58:00 EST
Subject: Re: Two Lists

Speaking as a confirmed Series bigot, I protest the list split. I need the 
comic relief of the CD-player, squeaky steering wheel, and Grey Poupon stains 
on the leather.....8*)

   aj"Humor R' Us - but don't split the list"r

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 12:16:39 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Land Rover parking brake

I always figured that the Rover trans brake was a leftover from the 
agriculture days. I think it will support a leather belt...
You could mount a belt driven saw in the rear bed of a D-90
, cut a couple of slots int the floor, disconnect the drive shaft,
and presto a portable saw mill.

Russ
Russ Burns
91 R-Rover
94 D-90

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 12:17:25 -0800
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: International LR part refurbisher

An article in the weekend Financial Times (1/20//1/21) was just brought 
to my attention.  It seemed somewhat interesting so I thought I'd share 
a summary of it.  It was written by Clive Fewins in Section 2 and 
titled "Exporting used parts to the rest of the world". 

Following an experience in the Royal Navy restoring a fleet of Gambian 
LRs, a  fellow by the name of Peter Hobson set up a firm that 
specializes in purchasing LR wrecks worldwide and refurbishing parts 
which, where appropriate, are sold as high quality used parts.  
Apparently he was so successful that LR pressured him out of the UK 
market, so he's now running an international business.  Seems to do a 
wopping business in Africa (surprise :) ).  He/they claim to be the 
largest parts stockist apart from LR themselves (1 million + parts) 
with anything from bolts to engines remanufactured to LR standards.  
There's no mention in the article of any US market exposure.

The address is:
Peter Hobson (Louth) Ltd., The Land Rover Restoration Centre, 
Donington-on-Bain, Lincolnshire LN11 9TR, te. 01507-343401

Anyone out there heard of him before?

For those of you with a cool 1/2 to 1 million pounds sterling - he's 
looking for an investor for expansion - an overseas center in Ghana :)

Cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 15:22:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: OVLR's Business Venture

On Wed, 24 Jan 1996, Michael Carradine wrote:

>  Sean Sinkule <Atlanta67@AOL.COM>, Renewed Traditions can be reached at
>  6875 Peachtree Dunwoody Rd NE, Atlanta, GA 30328   Tel.770-392-1593
							  ???
						     -=>  404
							
>  Well, I'd say Sean's is an *exact* copy of your vehicle lineup on the OVLR
>  masthead, except for scale... and the LR on the right is the same as three
>  on the left.  They even have their name in the same space.
>.
	Interesting...  Have to see this.  The rightmost LR changes between
	types, but this is a recent thing.  Normally for our "official"
	stuff with the government all the LR's are IIA's

>  Sean will fax you a copy of his vehicle price sheet, or I can.
>.
	Left a message on a machine with my fax number.  See if he sends
	it up with the letterhead on it.  Wonder how he got a hold of
	a newsletter to even see this (on second thought this has appeared
	in LRO, LRW, and AW numerous times...)

>  PS-- Don't tell anyone I'm helping you track down these guys... I don't
>  want people to think we're getting chummy!  =:o
>.
	Damn no...  Have a reputation to uphold...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 12:20:50 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Two Lists

 Tim Harincar <Harincar@mooregs.com> writes:

:I'd like to propose splitting the list. And the   
:logical division is Series and post Series.
:
:A lot would also be posted to both lists, such as info about tires,   
:travels, or other things of common interest.

 Before doing another split, may I suggest expeditious use of the Subject
 header??  Many headers start with "D90" or "Disco", basically warning
 Series people off the topic.  I trash 80% of the mail based on the topic of
 the message, and no doubt miss some kernels of wisdom as the header often
 has NO relation to the message.  You might also subscribe to the real time
 list, as scanning Subject and Sender is much easier than the digest :)
 Then, try this sometime, don't read any message for a week or so.  You may
 find that life goes on and most topics will come around again.

 Personally, I thought the lro mail list was slowing down for awhile.  It
 seems that after Bill announced the split into the several 'continental'
 lists, there have been fewer messages.  For instance, I don't recall any
 messages from Australia or South Africa in weeks, and I miss the inter-
 national flavour of the list (if not the seasoned humour :).  Heck, the
 only occassional international mail is from Dixon, and we know how that
 is =:o 

 Cheers,
                          ______
 Michael Carradine        [__[__\==                     Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900             [________]                        Land-Rover 4x4
 cs@crl.com  ___________.._(o)__.(o)_____...o^^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88)
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html
 

 

------------------------------

Date: 	Wed, 24 Jan 1996 12:26:53 -0800
From: cyoungso@direct.ca (Chris Youngson)
Subject: Disco manifold bolts

While attending the Vancouver Auto Show last night I stopped by the two LR 
dealers to give them my annual dose of hard time. I noticed what appeared to
be locking tabs on the exhaust manifold bolts. They were C shaped and 
covered two bolts with one part. What struck me was that the tabs were 
not folded over. Is this normal? This was the Disco 4.0L? 73

Chris Youngson, VE7CST
West Vancouver, BC
1965 109

------------------------------

From: ChrisF6724@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 15:33:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Handbrake steering

Handbrake steering can be fun and useful! You can do a U-Turn without ever
hitting reverse.  It work really simply, it locks the transmittion so the
rear wheels (assuming your rear-wheel drive and in two wheel-drive) so that
the tail will break loose and spin around.  One word of advise though, DON'T
DO IT IN 4 WHEEL DRIVE!  If the rear wheels lock, so will the front due to
the transmittion, so basically all you've managed to do is loose all control
of the vechile.  I don't think I'd ever try it off-road, but use it
frenquently on hard-pack snow....;-)

I found another trick with the handbrake if you happen to find yourself in a
similiar situation some cold dark night.  One night while driving my old
Scout around town, I accedentially did a "neutral drop" and managed to
corkscrew the rear driveshaft.  If you've ever broken a drive shaft, you know
that any further movement will cause the broken shaft to flail around and
snap other things like the yokes, puncture the gas tank, brake lines, gas
lines,...  Anyhow, I managed to do this on a hill.  Brakes worked fine, but
the emergency brake wouldn't work because it locks the transmittion (which
was no longer "connected" to the tires).  I had to sit for about twenty
minutes before I was able to find someone to "lock the hubs" so that I could
engage 4-wheel drive and then engage the emergency brake.  At that point I
was finally able to get out of the car and with a cigarette lighter for light
and a cresent wrench, (I think my thumb is still scarred with the imprint of
the lighter striker, man those things get hot!!) and I managed to remove the
drive-shaft.  I then limped the car home in "front-wheel drive" mode...Moral
of the story: the handbrake won't work if your driveshaft is broke..

Oh, by the way, should you ever snap a driveshaft, I would highly recommend
that you also replace both yokes.  Mine looked fine, but snapped a week after
replacing the driveshaft and I ended up replacing both yokes, u-joints, and
the driveshaft again.

Chris Fisher
'73 LR 88 Series 3

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 21:46:25 -0600 (CST)
From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: RE: Steering Wobble

In message Wed, 24 Jan 1996 09:21:56 -0500 (EST),
  chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)  writes:

> soon returns. Is this a steering shock, worn swivel pins, need of toe
> adjustment, wheel balancing? Where do I start.

Start taking off the steering shock. Should make it much easier to feel
progress along the way. When the shock is off, take a quick test drive
before you proceed.

Still wobbly?. Check for slack in the links and the steering relay. Grab the
two joined parts on each link (in turn of course) an have someone move the
steering wheel back and forth. Put the palm of your hand on the relay axle
and the fingers on the top/bottom plate and have the wheel moved again.
If there is slack you can renew components with priority on the links. Grab
the steering- and track rods and try to turn them around their axis. I there
is no or little resistance and if they feel like worn-in at a certain
position, change the links. Take a test drive.

Check the alignment. Jack up the front. Turn the steering wheel so that the
primary (on the steering column) road wheel is parallel with the rear
wheel.If it's difficult because of embossed letters on the tyre, take off
the front tyre, put a (steel) ruler to rest on two studs against the hub
flange. Check the secondary wheel. Is it parallel with the rear wheel? If
not adjust. Kick the sec. wheel, aim the primary wheel and check again. When
wheels are parallel you can start to tweek. Take a test drive. If steering
is not satisfactory turn the trackrod half a turn either way. Test. No?. Turn
it one turn the other way. No?. Turn 1.5 turn the other (first) way etc.
When you reach 2.5 turns without good steering, return it to parallel.
Wheels should be close to alignment then.

One question: Does your front develop a knocking sound just before coming to
a halt? Is your relay old? Both things applied to my 109 when it wobbled
after getting new links. Aligning cured the problem.

Wheel shocks. Take them all off and, if they look worth keeping, exercise
them back and forth, full travel 20-30 times each. Cheapest way to renew
shocks. Listen if there is oil spraying through damper holes inside. Do the
same to the steering shock.

This is all i can think of right now. If all fails you will need advice from
someone who actually knows about these things.

Good luck.
sv/aurens

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 21:46:30 -0600 (CST)
From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: RE: uneven braking

In message Tue, 23 Jan 1996 19:38:13 -0800,
  jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us (john hess)  writes:

> flexible brake lines: see if they have different INSIDE diameters.
> Believe it or not, this will lead to nearly the same problem.  Brakes

I've been thinking through all components, checking most of them. Not the
flex lines though. They had the same type no. on the bags. But no brand
name. Could be made by moonlighters in a backyard factory. Well Aurens
passed mot so i'll wait for money, time and summer to be present at the same
time and then revise the whole braking system checking all specs before
fitting.

Thanks.

sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 15:48:14 -0500
Subject: Different specs for Discoverys

Are there different shop manuals for North American Discos than for
other Discos?

For a particular model, say the V8 fuel injected one, how many 
different specs are there? North America, the rest of the world,? ? ?

- -

Waving: For the first time a Disco driver waved at me first.

--
Gerald
Massachusetts, U.S.
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 12:52:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Two Lists

The proposed series/post series list split is fine with me. 

 There are good people on both sides but I admit I'm not interested in Disco
& Range Rover specific problems/fixes/add-ons.  I'm sure the Range Rover
crowed would be happier not listening to me wonder why I have only ever seen
one Range Rover off road and the Disco crowed would have been spared the term
Plushmobile.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 16:15:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Two Lists

If the list splits into Series and non-series I will subscribe to
both. I look at the Series owners for what life with a Disco will be
(or hope it will be) in a few years. 

--
Gerald
Massachusetts, U.S.
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 13:41:50 -0800
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Dormobile Top Glass

Does anyone know if replacement glass is available for the windows in 
Dormobile tops?  Would this have to be a custom replacement job?

Thanks for any info.

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 22:54:09 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Running down schoolkids

Gentlefolk - the harangue against drinking and driving reminded me of this=

totally non-LR-related story:

Farmer comes to Vienna, gets into a taxi. Taxi is a Mercedes, as most taxis=

in Vienna. After a while, farmer asks driver: Say, what is that star in the=

front there for? (Totally unrealistic, BTW, since *all* farmers in Austria=

own at least one Mercedes, but that would spoil the story.) Driver says:
That is an aid to take aim at pedestrians when you want to hit one. Farmer=

says: That sounds like a lot of fun, let=B4s hit one! Driver says ok, takes=

careful aim at a pedestrian crossing at a red light, makes sure he misses
narrowly. Driver says: Well, that was close, but he must have moved, usually=

I get them! Farmer says: Ok, lets try another one! Same thing happens, same=

things are said. Farmer requests the old lady crossing at a pedestrians
crossing down the road should be the next Object in The Star Sights. Driver=

agrees, misses closely once more, only this time: Terrible crash,
splintering bones, blood and gore! Farmer says: Y=B4know, I would ask for my=

money back, that thing is worthless. If I hadn=B4t opened my door, you would=

have missed her, too!

Morals:
1. Stay well clear of Mercedes taxis in Vienna.
2. Don=B4t provoke me into telling tasteless jokes.

Sorry
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
Vienna, Austria

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 14:17:12 -0800 (PST)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Please Save Bandwidth

Speaking of pet peeves, how about using a more standard page width? 
Self-wrapping just about destroys my ocular scanning capabilities.  75
spaces is a nice width, and allows forwarding w/out wrapping.  And how 
about a location in the sig block.  I've given up responding to people 
who want a spare engine, but won't give their name or location. 

              * walter c. swain         | davis.ca.us       *
.sig block snipped to reduce band width

 On Wed, 24 Jan 1996, John Y. Liu wrote:
                                                                             
> This is in the "sorry to nag" category.  Please try to snip away at previous
> messages when
snipped to comply with request
> how long it
> takes to download.  Any practical snipping will be appreciated.

------------------------------

From: Treit Le <Treit_Le@apprise.com>
Date: 24 Jan 96 14:35:00 
Subject: Used rangies

>From: Inkornoink@aol.com
>"Anybody else on this side of the pond think that $17k is a
>good price for a 1990?"

Just called a local used car dealer that bills themselves as Roverland (201) 
346-1511.
They had a green '90 RR w/ 85k miles and were "asking" $17.9K.
They were willing to sell a 12 month/12K mile warranty for under $750.
In general, a '93 RR LWB with all the goodies would go for about $30K.
Prices may be artificially high during blizzards:)

$17k is a good price, particularly from a dealer. These vehicles typically go 
for  around $14K
wholesale at auction. IMHO, service history, warranty and condition
matter more than $2K-$3K price difference. An '90 vehicle can be anywhere from
showroom to totally thrashed.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 14:39:30 PST
From: "BREAKFIELD ERNEST" <breakfield.ernest@smtpgateway.centigram.com>
Subject: Re[2]: Please Save Bandwidth

        i have to agree with John... even aside from the fact that lro-lite 
     snips away automatically!
     
     e

> Subject: Re: Please Save Bandwidth
> Author:  PurnellJE@aol.com at smtpgateway

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 29 lines)]
> Just IMHO.
> John.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 14:52:10 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Spare Engine? (was: Save Bandwidth)

Walter C. Swain <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us> writes:

:Speaking of pet peeves, how about using a more standard page width? 
:Self-wrapping just about destroys my ocular scanning capabilities.
:75 spaces is a nice width, and allows forwarding w/out wrapping.

 Agreed!!

:And how about a location in the sig block.  I've given up responding to
:people who want a spare engine, but won't give their name or location. 

 YOU have a spare engine??

 Rumpole needs a 2.25 petrol...  send it to me in Walnut Creek at:

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 15:44:35 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: Re: Dormobile Top Glass

On Wed, 24 Jan 1996, Jeremy Bartlett wr> 
> Does anyone know if replacement glass is available for the windows in 
> Dormobile tops?  Would this have to be a custom replacement job?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Thanks for any info.
> Jeremy
I once owned a dormobile and had a HECK of a time finding roof vent covers
that would work. i finally went to a motor home shop and found some that
fit fairly well. As i recall the glass is just flat so you might get a
custom safety glass repl.
good luck!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 14:58:10 PST
From: "BREAKFIELD ERNEST" <breakfield.ernest@smtpgateway.centigram.com>
Subject: Re: chains and tahoe

     john,
        there are various levels of "chains required" conditions, at least 
     here in CA. generally speaking, if they're letting anyone through, 
     with 4wd and mud & snow rated tires, you will not be required to put 
     on chains. there's a lovely little sign hung on the bottom of the 
     "chains required" sign that says (in very small letters) "4 wheel 
     drive with snow tires excepted." (along with the "end of maintained 
     road" and "not recommended for vehicle travel" signs, it's one of my 
     favorites!) the next level above (below?!) this is 4wd WITH chains, 
     and if it gets that bad here, i'm told the roads are simply completely 
     closed by the CHP with the exception of locals accessing their homes.
        i spent many a weekend in tahoe skiing last season in these 
     conditions, & i was NEVER required to put chains on.
     
     happy trails,
     e
     n6zes
     408.428.3745

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 15:29:35 -0800 (PST)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Spare Engine?

On Wed, 24 Jan 1996, Michael Carradine wrote:

>  YOU have a spare engine??

Of course not, but I thought you did.  At least that's what I've been 
telling anybody who asked.

Walt
              * Walter C. Swain         | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us       *

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 18:45:56 -0500 (EST)
From: John Pertalion <ap12536@xx.acs.appstate.edu>
Subject: Re: Two Lists

	I guess I was too restrained in my first comment on two lists.  The
real reason there should be two lists is because if you don't own a Series,
you're not a real Land Rover Owner.

	How's that. `:)

John Pertalion
'60 SII 88" "Gumdrop"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 00:52:30 +0100
From: edg@innet.be (edg)
Subject: break pads

To all UK members

Hello,

My '89 RR -left hand drive- needs new front break pads.
While those on the right side are used up, those on the left side are still =
ok.
The dealer charges ~=A3 73 for both sides, that is without labour.
 I intend doing it myself this time as I have moved recently and
and there is space enough. As I know by experience, prices in the UK are low=
er.
Could someone give me a hand with where and how much?
What I need (I suppose) is:
    -2 breakpads (without wear indicator)
    -2 retaining pins
    -appropriate lubricant

Thanks,

Erik De Geyter
email  edg@innet.be

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 16:25:41 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Two Lists

 John Pertalion <ap12536@xx.acs.appstate.edu> '60 SII 88" "Gumdrop" writes:
:	I guess I was too restrained in my first comment on two lists.  The
:real reason there should be two lists is because if you don't own a Series,
:you're not a real Land Rover Owner.
:	How's that. `:)

 Sounds more like an argument for ONE list.  That is, if you have a Series
 Land Rover you're a real Land Rover owner and can be ON the list, everybody
 else is not a real Land Rover owner and should be OFF!

 I hope I'm paraphrasing you correctly, John?
 
 (Not MY opinion, just John's  =:)

                          ______
 Michael Carradine        [__[__\==                     Rumpole of the Bay
 510-988-0900             [________]                        Land-Rover 4x4
 cs@crl.com  ___________.._(o)__.(o)_____...o^^^^  '65 IIA 2.235m (was 88)
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

From: smitha@mail.CandW.lc
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 20:41:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Two Lists

>I know this has been discussed before, and shot down (and I was one of   
>the shooters). But I'd like to propose splitting the list. And the   
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Series info more than anything. So maybe not every day I'd read the post   
>Series list. I would imagine that Disco owners would feel the same.

Boy, kicked out of the Series group, when I consider I have a Series 4. 
Bummer.
Allan Smith
300Tdi 90>

------------------------------

From: smitha@mail.CandW.lc
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 20:41:23 -0500
Subject: Re: how many lists?

> Personally, I thought the lro mail list was slowing down for awhile.  It
> seems that after Bill announced the split into the several 'continental'
> lists, there have been fewer messages.  For instance, I don't recall any
> messages from Australia or South Africa in weeks, and I miss the inter-
> national flavour of the list (if not the seasoned humour :).  

I haven't come across any reference to more than two lists. Can anyone fill me 
in?  I don't know what continent I'm supposed to be on, being on a tectonic 
plate not connected to the US or the UK.
BTW, is there anyone in Belize on the list? I'll be there for the next two 
weeks and I'm hoping that there is a dealer that stocks service/maintenance 
items.
Allan Smith
St. Lucia 

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: Air Bags
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 16:45:35 -0800

>From: 	ericz@cloud9.net[SMTP:ericz@cloud9.net]
>Subject: 	RE: Air Bags

><snip>

>The problem of which I spoke has to do with the remote nature of 
off-roading.  
>More than likely, trained rescuers will be a long time in coming, so one 
should 
>know what happens with air bags so they don't become injured themselves.
Airbags or no, being able to tend to your wounded (e.g. first aid kit, 
training, etc.) without relying on  the aforementioned rescuers is a good 
idea. Likewise having the means to summon help (and knowing who to call) can 
be a lifesaver as well.
><airbag info-bits snipped>
>Well, those are the major ideas I wanted to share...just think of them if 

you 
>have an accident on the trail...
That's a valid point. I'd hate to have an airbag deploy while someone is 
futzing around with the bumper (e.g. some yahoo trying to wrap a chain 
around the frame rail, snagging the sensor harness, etc.) Knowing where the 
sensors are and to avoid the bright yellow wire looms (that carry the 
air-bag sensor & computer wires) would be valuable info indeed.

Happy Trails! (with or without airbags!)
    _____
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |  _|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU

 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 19:57:16 -0500 (EST)
From: John Pertalion <ap12536@xx.acs.appstate.edu>
Subject: Re: Two Lists

>  John Pertalion <ap12536@xx.acs.appstate.edu> '60 SII 88" "Gumdrop" writes:
> :	I guess I was too restrained in my first comment on two lists.  The
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>  else is not a real Land Rover owner and should be OFF!
>  I hope I'm paraphrasing you correctly, John?

	Yep.

------------------------------

From: stretch@vol.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 09:05:32 PST
Subject: Re: CB aerials 

Hi from Hong Kong, all:

All the antenna theory aside, I've had some success with the following, particularly when seeking only limited range:

Antenna Specialists makes (made) a CB cellular look-alike, as well as 2 meter, etc antenna.  These are window mount just like cellular, and seem to work ok as no no-drilled holes/no mag mount compromise.  

I've used these mounted:

1)  center rear or front window

2)  on fiberglass body panels (as long as there is no metal or carbon fiber reinforcement)

The CB antenna is a little peaky...that is fairly narrow tuning due to the heavy loading of the short whip...again in short range, this is fine, as the squeals and howls are somewhat attenuated.  I've had luck with tuning the coil screw for max background noise as an expedient.

Hope this is useful

regards,

John Collins
Hong Kong
'95 D90

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 17:27:01 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Two lists:

Two lists:

One for Land Rover Owners

One for people to talk about how many lists they want (please UNsubscribe 
me to this one!)

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Put SW body on tray chassis ?
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 12:12:39 +1030 (CST)

Doug asks:

No idea on thge first couple of questions but:

> For Australian readers: I have heard that the local 110 cab-chassis/tray
> had a longer wheelbase (ie it wasn't a 110 !)than the other models (SW and
> HT). I assume this means that the chassis is different. Anybody know for
> sure ?

The OZ 110 cab-chassis was actually a 120.  There is a member of the local
club who is quite knowledgable on these beasties, aparently they cut and shut
the chassis and added 10"  Sorry dont have a contact for him to hand.  There
was or is going to be an article in LRO on these......

Hmmm  I wonder if you could put a 130 crewcab body on a 120 and just have a
shorter tray, now that would be fun. :-)

sorry i cant be of more help but the O/S mob are complaining about lack of
input from the OZ mob.  So guys add the OZ 120 3.9d tray top to your trivia
list..... 

cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

From: smitha@mail.CandW.lc
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 21:56:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Hood Release, '94 D90

>  So, has anyone with a '94 with a RIGHT SIDE hood release handle (low #)
>had their cable break?

No, but on a made-to-order (december 94) '95 D90 the pull needed for a right 
hand is considerable - more than lifting a SCUBA tank (32 lbs) and closer to 
two tanks- and in fact I have worried about pulling the handle off. I've just 
thought of checking if there is a difference with and without the wheel on the 
bonnet/hood.
Allan Smith
300Tdi 90
St. Lucia

>  So, has anyone with a '94 with a RIGHT SIDE hood release handle (low #)
>had their cable break?

------------------------------

From: smitha@mail.CandW.lc
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 21:57:07 -0500
Subject: Oil additives

Warmest regards from St. Lucia ....
Or does Costa Rica Bill have the copyright on that intro? I would guess that 
no one on this list will ever use warmest regards again. It prompte a 
Pavlovian *delete* response.

>From recent postings it appears that the slippery teflon hype is not for 
engines. What about gearboxes? Toward the end of last year LRO carried a short 
piece on a lubrication problems in the R380 gearbox that leads to wear, 
remedied by replacement of a gear with improved capabilty for splash 
lubrication. Would a *better* oil help?

If anyone knows I would be grateful for info. With no dealership here, the 
warranty modification that is available elsewhere is irrelevant. Apparently 
for UK vehicles the modification was being done in Germany. I go there a 
couple of times a year but I don't see myself checking a gearbox in with my 
luggage and heading for Bavaria.

Actually, having trained people work on my gearbox is orders of magnitude 
further away than day-to-day deficiencies. The M2C33-F auto 'box oil required 
by the R380 manual 'box is not available on the island. I have to stock up 
when I travel. At least that involves small quantities that one can fly with. 
I can't get the correct grade of engine oil either, but there is no way to get 
on a plane with the quantities that would be needed for oil changes. 

Allan "stuck in paradise without service or spares and not even a torque 
wrench insight" Smith

------------------------------

From: smitha@mail.CandW.lc
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 22:34:44 -0500
Subject: Re: [1]The Land Rover Owner Dai

On Wed, 24 Jan 1996, Dean Cording <dean@holly.aspect.com.au> wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>On Tue, 23 Jan 1996, Chris Stevens wrote:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>On Tue, 23 Jan 1996, Chris Stevens wrote:
>> >Warmest regards from Costa Rica.  I currently plan to return to the office 
on
>> >January 29th.
>> Ah, just six more days until Bill returns!
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Dean
>Please convey a warm, or hotter, welcome on my behalf. Unfortunately I'll be 
in Belize (also in Central America ...) when Costa Rica Bill returns so I 
can't do it myself. I tried the return mail thing and got swamped - it seemed 
exponential and just exploded into a mass of Bills. I promise not to send any 
sort of message from Salt Water Caye, as I won't be taking the laptop.
Allan Smith
300Tdi 90   El galeon
St. Lucia

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 19:15:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Put SW body on tray chassis ?

On Thu, 25 Jan 1996, dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) wrote:

>The OZ 110 cab-chassis was actually a 120.  There is a member of the local
>club who is quite knowledgable on these beasties, aparently they cut and shut
>the chassis and added 10"  Sorry dont have a contact for him to hand.  There
>was or is going to be an article in LRO on these......

>Hmmm  I wonder if you could put a 130 crewcab body on a 120 and just have a
>shorter tray, now that would be fun. :-)

If I understand it correctly, the 110 body styles were all constructed to fit on 
one common chassis, with bolt-on attachments.  This, instead of the different 
chassis for station wagons as on series vehicles.  Although probably more work 
than was originally anticipated, I would love to see how a lengthened station 
wagon might work...mate a regular station wagon body with a pick up rear and 
lengthen the roof, everything fully enclosed.  The 110/120 could be a great 
expedition vehicle for four people...plenty of room for gear but less wheelbase 
than the 130....
Just a thought....

Eric

P.S. I just got a look at an Australian ARB catalog (an off-road store here in 
NY go a hold of one, God knows how).  Man, you guys are lucky...now, if I could 
just get a 110 to put those accessories on...and have the expanse of terrain.

__________________
Eric Zipkin
Bedford, NY  USA
109" V8 Hardtop
SII LWB SW (my father's)

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 19:15:41 -0800
Subject: Two Lists

Mark down my vote against two lists...a little discretion on subject lines could 
solve most of the problems encountered.

Eric

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Two lists ???
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 13:50:05 +1030 (CST)

Uumm dont we have at least two lists already.

Land-Rover owner  and  Range Rover owner.  Now when was the last time you saw
a message on the Rangie list ????

seems we like it altogether, it gives us something more to grumble about :-)
cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 22:53:40 -0500
From: skillman@clark.net (Robert E Skillman)
Subject: List Suggestions

I have found, as many seem to, that getting 140 messages a day a bit much
to go through.  The spliting of the list is one way to go, but there are
others.  I dont want to offend anyone but I spend a lot of time reading
messages such as "The power window in my RR is broke, what can I do?"  and
the answer is "The only time the windows in my SII didn't work was when I
broke my wrist".  Entertaining yes, but informative no.  If the only true
LR is a series then why is everyone reading the RR, D, and Disco letters?
Maybe the list should be divided into a "help" and a "chat" list. (flame me
for that one!) If somone was only interested in plushmobiles they wouldn't
be on this list.  Let's pretend the list is divided and only read and reply
to the type of Land Rover each person owns for a few days and see what the
results are.  Bet you can't read just one!
                Bob Skillman  87RR (but have been looking for several years
for the right SII,III)

------------------------------

From: Simon Barclay <sbar@jna.com.au>
Subject: Plushmobile wins!!
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 15:08:00 EST

Received the Feb. issue of Overlander in the mail last night.  (Overlander 
is the top selling off road mag in Oz.)

...and they announced the winner of the '95 4WDTY award.  Yep, you guessed 
it!  The MkII RR has won!!  I think that makes 4 wins for LR in the last 5 
(or maybe 6) years!!

Simon
Sydney Oz.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 23:10:10 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Chain laws

John Hess writes with questions about snow chains and the highway patrol.  
I've driven Donner Pass three times and each in an absolute blizzard.  The 
patrol waved the Rover through each time - I slowed down to about 5 mph and 
they said go ahead.  However, you *still* MUST carry chains, supposedly even 
if you're driving a tank.  At each check point, there will be legions of 
"mechanics" who will install your chains or sell you theirs - for a price.  
I 'liberated' an empty chain bag and stuffed it with paper, in case the CHPs 
looked inside the Rover.  However, these days, I carry two sets - *very* 
aggressive V-bar reinforced for the rear and some twist-links for the front.

For those who came in late...I'll repeat my chain installation tip from last 
winter.  Carry a brick or a suitable length of doubled 2X6.  Lay the chain 
out in front of the tire and place the brick/block on the ground between a 
section of chain.  Drive forward until you are on top of the brick.  That 
will lift the tire free and give you enough wiggle room to easily fit/adjust 
the chains.  Happy trails.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 23:10:15 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Locking brakes

>An old lorry hand told me...to NEVER leave it parked on the transmission
>brake, cos sooner or later it'll stick.  Leave it in gear instead...

I dunno about that.  I've had the gearbox *solidify* in -35 F.  Could not 
shift out of second gear.  A garage-kept vehicle had to drag me a full 1/3 
mile before the wheels would begin to turn.  Better to leave it in 
neutral...an hope that the parking space is flat.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 23:10:21 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: More V-8 folklore

Following Davie Cockey's (Wdcockey@aol.com) thread on the alloy block V-8....

William Martin-Hurst, Rover's managing director in the mid-sixties, was 
touring a Mercury-Marine boatbuilding plant in the US.  At that time, Rover 
was still casting about for a powerplant for the "100 inch station wagon 
project".  Up until then, the 3.0 litre (P-5??) Rover straight six was the 
prime candidate.  At the plant, he literally stumbled across the little
Buick V-8 that was being used as a boat engine because of its light weight.
Rover bought the patent rights from GM and the rest, shall we say, is 
history.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: LAW142@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 23:13:28 -0500
Subject: DEFENDER 110s AND CAMEL TROPHY 110s

Hi from Austin, Texas,
     I'm looking for a Camel Trophy Defender 110 to buy.  I know what the
import regs are so don't remind me. I imported a LR last May with no
glitches.  When, where, and who sells the Camel Trophy Defender 110s after
the race is over?  Also, can anyone tell me how much a Defender 110 should
cost in Pounds Sterling with the following, BUT with NO engine?
                    1.  Full roll cage.
                     2. Snorkle.
                     3.  2 spare tires.
If anyone could give me a range of prices (high to low range) it would help
me a great deal.  Does any one have a recommendation as to what used LR
dealer in GB would be able to meet these requirements for a vehicle?
     Thanks for the help.

Karl Young II
Austin, Texas, USA
1969 LR SIIA 109, Station Wagon, RHD, 5DR

------------------------------

From: Simon Barclay <sbar@jna.com.au>
Subject: RE: List Suggestions
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 15:36:00 EST

But what about those of us that have a Series vehicle and an RR or Disco. 
 Would we not then have to access both lists??

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 20:53:50
From: dlague@gnn.com (Dick Lague)
Subject: Re: Chevy V-6 in my RR

I have a 4.3 litre V-6 in my GMC van [126,000mi], and it is very 
torquey.  This engine is actually small block V-8 with tow 
cycliders chopped off.  Many, Many parts are interchangeable with 
the Chevy V-8.  I have driven other V-6' like the Nissan, and they 
do lack the torque of the GM 4,3 litre unit.  Don't lump all v-6's 
as having no torque.
Dick
>Date:	Wed, 24 Jan 1996 11:53:12 -0800
>From:	ericz@cloud9.net
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>On Wed, 24 Jan 1996, JCassidyiv@aol.com wrote:
>>Spoke with my local mechanic about engine possiblilities for my 
3.5L 1987
> RR.
>> He felt that the V-6 Chevy "Vortec" engine would be a great 
swap.  He
> feels
>>that weight would be comparable with the stock engine and that 
standard
>>horsepower is about 190.  
>I would use caution about using a V6 in an off-road vehicle.  I have had 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
> instalation.
>Eric

------------------------------

Date: 25 Jan 96 00:57:02 EST
From: "AMEDEO (Denver, CO)" <102505.3511@compuserve.com>
Subject: RR FUEL TANK

Rob Dennis asked how to tell if the fuel tank is the "new" one...

If the sheet metal skid pad under the tank is smooth, it is the old one.
The new fuel tanks have a ribbed metal protector.

Amedeo

Land Rover Denver east
87 RR 

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 01:12:10 -0500
Subject: Re: RR Fuel Tank (was:$$ Dealer Repairs $$)

>>Are you saying that if you paid to replace your tank, but that it was not
the new *improved* tank, that they won't reimburse you for it???

Right-O.  I bought my '89 about 4 years ago.  Two years later the tank
started to leak and I replaced it with a "new improved" one  from A-B.  I
expected to finance for some of this work with the recall rebate, but even
though the new one didn't leak, the dealer replaced it because, as he said,
not the same spec as the recall replacement. - Tony

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 22:25:49 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Two Lists

At 20:41 24.01.96 -0500, smitha@zeus.candw.lc wrote:
>>I know this has been discussed before, and shot down (and I was one of   
>>the shooters). But I'd like to propose splitting the list. And the   
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Boy, kicked out of the Series group, when I consider I have a Series 4. 
>Bummer.
And that would make Range Rover Classics Series 5s, Discoveries Series 6s
and New Range Rovers Series 7s, right?

Cheers!
John
'95 SVI
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 22:25:41 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Two Lists

Don't you guys start with that plushmobile stuff again, or we'll Grey Poupon
you to kingdom come!

Grrr!
John

At 15:09 24.01.96 EST, Bobeck, David R. wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>But John, we have so much fun making fun of their vehicles.
>Dave "and vice Versa" Bobeck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 22:25:45 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Different specs for Discoverys

The shop manual I bought actually has what appears to be all versions
(except the right-hand drive stuff), even the engines that aren't imported here.

Cheers!
John
'95 Discovery
San Francisco, California

At 15:48 24.01.96 -0500, Gerald wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Are there different shop manuals for North American Discos than for
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
>Gerald
>Massachusetts, U.S.
>g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 01:26:28 -0500
From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall Thomas)
Subject: Re: RR Fuel Tank  (was:$$ Dealer Repairs $$)

. Mine was
>replaced a year ago, but I don't know if it was replaced with the new tank.
>Anyone know how to tell?

Yes, the new ones are a two part affair. The tank and the sling for it are
separate whereas
the old ones had these welded together.  It was rust forming between the
pieces that 
caused the recall.

Cheers, Randall

------------------------------

From: Bombdiver@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 01:40:28 -0500
Subject: Two cents

I realize that I put in my two cents the other day, but as I think about it
now, there's one thing that I failed to include, so here's my next
installment of food for thought.
  While discussing after markety goodies (brush/grille guards) with the local
dealer, he passed along a story that might make you wonder.  A California
Discovery owner installed a non-Land Rover spec grill guard on his vehicle.
 Obviously not compatable with the SRS (that's airbags for you
non-plushmobile drivers).  As a result of a minor accident (under 5 MPH) the
airbags deployed.  Now the owner tried to get his insurance company to pay to
get the airbag system reset.  Insurance company say's no way, due to the fact
that the grill guard was not compatable with the SRS and as a result the
airbags deployed in a situation that it normally wouldn't have.  The owner
took the insurance company to court and promptly lost.  I'm sure that there
are a lot of details that didn't get relayed along with the story.  What kind
of grille guard, what kind of obstacle was contact made with, where on the
vehicle was contact made (somwhere along the front bumper I'm assuming) and
on and on ......  I guess the bottom line is that  if your looking at using a
non-Land Rover spec accessory and there's a question, ask your insurance
company.
Cheers

Andy Baran
95 Discovery  Portifino Red   Matilda

"There are few problems that can't be solved with the proper application of a
suitable amount of high explosives"

P.S.  Those Yakima racks are still looking for a new home...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 22:42:52 -0800 (PST)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: RE: List Suggestions

On Thu, 25 Jan 1996, Simon Barclay wrote:

> But what about those of us that have a Series vehicle and an RR or Disco. 
>  Would we not then have to access both lists??

Somebody else from Oz pointed out that there already is a Range Rover
Owner List, a point that seems to have gone by just about all the other
commenters.  Several months ago (September 28) I subscribed to the RRO
list, and to the best of my knowledge, I've not received a single message. 
If anybody feels strongly about it, use it.  As for me, I've still got my 
delete button installed on my keyboard.  

Walt
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
              * Walter C. Swain         | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us       *
              * Davis Community Network | 1988 Range Rover              * 
              * Davis, California       | 1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW *
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 01:52:36 -0500
Subject: Re: $$ Dealer Repairs $$

>>i think you paid too much for a vehicle

How do you know how much I paid, Buster?

>>that costs too much to maintain

Well it's not a Chevy.

>>the way you're using it

How do you know how I use it, and what business is it of yours?

>>and you never mentioned whether you even use it off-road or not

Why should I.  I asked the Rover List a question about relative shop costs.
 I don't need to justify my ownership of anything to you.  Maybe I park it in
my bed room and sleep in it.  So what.

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: petrol to diesel conversion on 2.25 l ???
Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 08:37:11 +0100 (MET)

Hi Series Gurus out there,

a friend of mine is looking for a SII/III for quite a while now.
He lately came across a 109 SIII which might be a good deal (I haven't
seen it for now). The only problem is that it has a petrol engine 
and he wants a diesel, since he has some connections to a transport
company and can get diesel for about 70% of the normal price.

Has anyone done the conversion from petrol to diesel on a 2.25l
engine and can tell me how much work it is and what parts and special
tools he would need?

Many Thanks,
Franz
-- 
Franz Parzefall			 tbr1102@hpmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]           exmil. 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__.._
                                  

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