Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 07:51:00 UT
From: "Matthew Loxton" <mloxton@msn.com>
Subject: FW: Rangie Brake Bleeding Problem

----------
 I have a 1985 Range Rover, and have found it impossible to bleed the 
secondary
 brake cylinder. The main cyl bleeds fine and the rest of the PDWA works fine,
 but when bleeding the secondary, the fluid just bobs back and forth with 
pedal
 stroke, ie. No flow.
 

been stripped and checked for obstructions etc. No luck., New kit has been 
installed. 

Any ideas ?

Matthew Loxton			Yellow Peril SIII @ 947000Km !!!!
mloxton@MSN.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 08:47:43 UT
From: "Matthew Loxton" <mloxton@msn.com>
Subject: Synthetic Oil

Much has been said on the great value of synth oils in cold weather, but I 
haven't seen any posits on its behavior in hot weather.

I live and believe in South-Africa and venture up north from time to time. The 
coldest we EVER get is -15C but we can easily muster up 37+ in summer and some 
places manage 45C.

What will the oils do in this case?

Mloxton@msn.com	Series-3 Yellow Peril

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Mon, 22 Jan 1996 09:16:38 +0000
Subject:       Re: Landie wiring

On 21 Jan 96, Andy Dingley wrote:

> Wire. Buy full rolls. Lots of colours are nice, but if cost is a
> problem it's better to have plenty of wire that's thick enough to work
> anything, and doing the coding by using multi-pole connectors and writing
> the pins down.
For the main run down the chassis leg, use trailer wiring cable. It has 
all the connectors you need, is pre-wrapped and is colour-coded to a known 
standard :-)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

Quote of 1995: "The archididascalus is to be rusticated and will
                cease to be an abecedarian on the 1st of April"

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 1996 21:28:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Towing Capacity

Len Zeltzer wrote and Tony responded:
>> With only a 3500 towing capacity I'm not sure what I can tow, certainly
not a
>> 5,100lb trailer.
>I think you'll find that the towing capacity is 3500kg,which is considerably
more than most other small trucks.

"Land Rover Experiece" gives the Defender on-road towing capacity as 3500kg
BUT:
The rated capacity by LRNA may well be 3500#. Towing capacity is dependent on
several factors including: vehicle/trailer stability characteristics, hitch
type and mounting, powertrain cooling, powertrain durability, and overall
vehicle durability. A GUESS is that LRNA has designated 3500# based on
vehicle/trailer stability characteristics based on the short wheelbase
assuming that North American drivers might do something stupid, i.e. try to
tow 7000# of poorly loaded trailer at 70 mph on a windy day and then sue.
Another possibility is limited powertrain cooling capability in Southwestern
U.S. conditions. Anyway, this may be due to different interpretations of
North American conditions and habits vs. the rest of the world. Actually
3500# is similar to many small U.S. trucks without heavy-duty cooling, etc.

David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 11:51 GMT-0200
From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Subject: Re: Polarity

Hi

So Dixon sez:
	The big green beastie is going to get a CB radio this spring.
	However, it seems that the manufacturers of such devices have
	seen fit to discriminate against those with positive earth
	vehicles.  Since I have the CB radio, the 109 is positive earth,

Yup. Happens when you buy a cheap two-way radio :-) Cheap = CB, "expensive"
would be, say, Motorola VHF/UHF two-way.

	and I am one to like to leave polarity alone, the negative
	earth CB is going in.  Not to worry, it will be isolated and
	all that rot.  That isn't the problem.  The antenna however
	is a slightly greater concern.  Intro finished...

Be sure to check the metal parts of your microphone too.

	I cannot connect the antenna to the vehicle, thus allowing
	the antenna to have a ground plane.  Connecting the antenna
	will make the electronics in the radio feel a bit sick.  If I
	recall my E&M from years past are 1 and 2 correct?

What you need to do is decouple the coax outer (braid) from the DC - /
ground line. This is what, for example, Motorola sets do. The antenna
connector is not connected to -. I recall a GE CB that was also insulated
like that, the whole metal box floated, i.e. it wasn't connected to either +
or -, but it was the ground for RF. A set like that would fit any vehicle,
without the need to insulate.

Coming back to your problem. You need a capactor in line with the coax
braid, i.e. break the braid and install a capacitor. Lessee, 0.1, 0.01 uF
ceramic should work fine. These things look like a little disc / coin with
two wires coming out to the one side. break the coax somewhere, i.e. cut
through the braid, and install the capacitor with the leads as short as
possible. Wrap the leads around the braid on each side. Solder, but don't
fry :-)

Find a radio amateur friend with lotsa old ARRL handbooks, there's sure to
be a picture or two in there.

Get a cap with a nice high voltage rating, say 100 or 400 V or so. This
makes sure it'll last longer in the harsh automotive environment. (Voltage
ratings need to be derated for temperature, and cars, especially series
Landies, get hot, but then, we all knew that :-)

Oh yes, you can then mount the antenna base directly to the body. And you
won't have to change anything when you convert to - earth. 

Put a fuse in each of the CB supply leads, for safety.

Wouter

--
Wouter de Waal ZS1KE  GE>AT d-(pu) s+:-- a- C++$ UL+ U*+$ P>++ L++ E- W N+++>++
Argo 505 / FT200      !o K w(--) !O !M V(--) PS+ PE++ Y+ PGP>++ t 5? X? R?
                      tv>--- b+++ DI+ D+ G e+++(*) h--- r+++ y+++(*)

'72 Puma - 1700 FI Type IV engine                          Perseverance my son,
'6? Series IIA SW - factory fitted Lucas immobiliser         it's a   Land/
                                                                       /Rover
"All journeys end when we reach our destination but the journeying
remains a thing apart, unique unto itself. Most of us make life's journeys
without understanding that the journeying is a separate thing." -- Bob Hoover
--
Wouter de Waal        Phone : +27 21 683 5490
Development Engineer  Fax   : +27 21 683 5435
CCII Systems
Kenilworth, South Africa

------------------------------

From: JEPurnell@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jan 1996 21:48:33 -0500
Subject: OVLR birthday party date?

Senior Dixon, or other informed lro-er, is the date set for the next birthday
party at Silver Lake?  And, I looked on a map but couldn't find it, can you
give  its approx location?  Am gettin' married Jun 23rd, and thought it'd be
a great drive afterwards (...and so does she! It wasn't ALL my idea.)  I am
worried that it will be held exactly over that weekend though, which would
rule it out for me.    
Thanks,
John, WiscoNinety

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 05:50:31 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Uneven braking

Hi, a friend of mine had exactly the same problem. After much adjusting
and checking of everything he found that one of the POs had fitted a
slave cylinder of smaller size and therefore the pressure was not equal
on both sides, although the brakes worked on both sides.
  
Sounds really stupid, but if it happened once it can happen again!
  
You can check by measuring piston bore sizes on either side.
  
Otherwise this could be real fun to find, could even be a flexi hose
breaking up on the inside.
  
Have fun, Steve
  
Steve Reddock                         Product Evaluation, 26/12
Xyratex                  Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450  Int.721-4450
REDDOCK at HVTVM         Internet: Steve_Reddock@UK.XYRATEX.COM

------------------------------

From: jve@phaseone.dk
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 12:14:28 
Subject: Build your own gearbox crane.

Hi All.

Have anyone ever heard of a flywheel housing detaching from the motor block of a 
series III 4 cyl. petrol ?.
Well, you have now. I just found out that there is a 3 mm gap between them and I 
have to tighten the bolts for the flywheel housing. To reach these bolts I have 
to remove the flywheel. No problem. To remove the flywheel i have to remove the 
gearbox. Problem.
So - for the second time in five months - I am going to build my gearbox crane. 
I thought it could be of interest to some of you.
What I do is this:

I borrow a pair of aluminium ladders long enough to lean against the roof of the 
LR at the front doors. The doors must be open or removed. From ladder to ladder 
I put a 2 by 4 wooden beam through the car and secure it to the ladders with 
rope. The beam must be in the upright position for strength. After taking out 
the seat base and detaching all drive shafts and other things from the gearbox, 
I tie a rope around the gearbox making a small loop on top with the rope. From 
the wooden beam to this small loop I then attach a fourfold tackle (I don't know 
if this word is right but the point is that each tackle block must have four 
wheels). I bought the tackle blocks at a hardware store. They're not very 
expensive. With this construction I can raise and lower the gearbox with one 
hand and manouver it around with the other hand. I just raise the gearbox high 
enough to rotate it 90 degrees and lower it onto a pair of wooden laths reaching 
from one frame bar to the other. Once there, the gearbox can be worked on or 
taken apart if that is what you need.
If the gearbox must be taken out of the car, some more exotic construction must 
be used or of course, more manpower.

BTW regarding names for our wonderful machines, the only appropriate name I can 
think of is something like "Blue Thunder". Only my LR is some kind of white so I 
end up with "White Noise" ... no, forget it :-)

Happy rovering all of you.

Jens Vesterdahl
1972 109 sIII STW
Copenhagen, Denmark

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 7:06:49 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Re: Reply/Amsoil Synthetic

John,
I had original gear lube and trans fluid before the Amsoil change over. 
Thats what I was comparing to. I have been running Mobil 1 sense my first 
engine oil change. I'm going to switch to Amsoil for that to on my next 
oil change to keep everything the same.

Cheers,
Barnett 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 7:10:36 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:RE: Suspension/ABS Brakes

Robert,
After re-reading the "Land Rover Experience" book I got a good 
understanding of the panhard and wishbone setup and how they help locate 
the axles. Nowhere in the book does it mention swaybars?
Thanks,
Barnett.

------------------------------

Subject: TV LR sightings
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 07:24:02 -0500
From: Gary Mitchelson <garym@cais.cais.com>

-- [ From: Gary Mitchelson * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

1- On cable station FX a show called "Okavago" (sp?) they have several
Series LR's but the refer to them as "jeeps"!!!

2- On PBS they have a long running special on the Gulf War. Last night they
had a few minutes on the SAS and their special LR's.

--
Gary Mitchelson     
N3JPU     
garym@racalrecord.com     
Racal Recorders, Inc.       

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 7:27:37 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:: Swaybars; Evil menace or not?

All,
Thanks for the info on suspension tips. I meant to ask about sway bar 
removal. I got the panhard and wishbone set up confused with them.

It would be interesting to measure wheel travel,axle articulation with and 
without the swaybars to see just how much they tie up the suspension, and 
if it would be worth it to remove them?
Barnett.

------------------------------

From: jve@phaseone.dk
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 12:28:26 
Subject: Re: Uneven braking

Soren.

If everything else fails, try driving the last mile or so to the inspection site 
with a light pressure on the brake pedal. This way any irregularities on the 
brake linings are worn off. Since the brake linings are new there is almost 
certainly not the same area of contact between lining and drum on the two front 
brakes. One of my friends once had the same problem (although not with a Land 
Rover) and was told to come back for inspection when he had fixed the problem. 
He did not do anything about it except driving the last mile with the brakes on. 
At the inspection the car passed with flying colours, reaching an equality he 
had never seen before (he had been a car mechanic for 15 years at the time).

Good luck.

Jens Vesterdahl
1972 109 sIII STW
Copenhagen, Denmark  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 8:00:27 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Disco "frozen" in place

Gerald,
In all that rain we had everything under your truck was frozen and your 
tires were frozen to the ground. I have an unpaved driveway, Friday night 
it was a giant mudhole! Saturday morning all was frozen solid and I had 
the same problem. I stalled trying to back out, my Def didnt want to 
budge. I restarted put it in lo range and reverse let out the clutch and 
she pulled free. After looking at the ground there were 4 good size 
depressions where my tyres had been and all had perfect frozen tread 
marks.
Cheers,
Barnett Childress
Sturbridge, MA. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 08:36:01 -0500 (EST)
From: John Pertalion <ap12536@xx.acs.appstate.edu>
Subject: Re: <lro's in NC

Hey Steve, 

I live in Boone and have a '60 SII.  There are several Series owners in 
town and nearby (in Banner Elk).  The most recent person into the fold is 
a high school kid.  He got his IIA in the fall.  He swung by my house a 
few hours after he got the vehicle and I've rarely seen anyone so pleased.
My vehicle is down for repairs (transmission), otherwise I'd offer to 
head out with you on some of the trails.  Have a good trip.

John Pertalion
'60 SII 88" "Gumdrop"

On Sun, 21 Jan 1996, Steven Swiger (LIS) wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> <howdy all,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 32 lines)]
> 	(813) 874-5391
> 	(813) 253-0905 (Work)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 05:46:55 -0800
From: w1eox@ix.netcom.com (Yves  Feder)
Subject: better traction

Hey Rob!!!!

Hope you don't mind a tiny suggestion on your creative artwork!

----------------------------------------------------------------
     -------------------       
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |      
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88 "Eloise"
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     |\/|           |\/|

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 19-Jan-1996 
----------------------------------------------------------------

 You'll get better traction with this tire pattern:

     I/\I           I/\I

Couldn't resist!

Cheers!
Yves
'63 109 2 door 2 tops 10 radios
Yves Albert (Al "Al") Feder
w1eox@ix.netcom.com
Harpsichord Workshops and Recording Studios
"Danged if'n I unnerstand all I know"

 "When I go, I want to go quietly in my
  sleep, like my grandfather..... not
  screaming, like his passengers."

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 08:01:37 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: TV LR sightings

Gary Mitchelson writes:

Snip
> 2- On PBS they have a long running special on the Gulf War. Last night they
> had a few minutes on the SAS and their special LR's.

If that's the one I saw, Frontline, I thought it was an interesting 
bit of trivia on the mobile scud problem. The allied air forces were 
trying to find the moblie scud launchers that were launching at 
Israel and had no luck. They didn't 
destroy a single one. (the one's they claimed to have destroyed 
turned out to be oil tankers according to the CIA).
In comes the SAS in their Land Rovers and knocked out every launcher 
in the area know as the scud box. Maybe Israel will start importing 
Land Rovers now. (I seem to remember they never did, or was that 
another Middle East country)

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 08:13:59 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Re: Opening beer bottles (was: Re: Range Rovers off road)

On Sun, 21 Jan 1996, Roger Sinasohn wrote:
> But most importantly, is the safety issues.  If you're driving along, do you 
> really want to have to raise your arm/bottle to block your vision?  With a 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> sII, both the arm and bottle stay low, out of your view.  Something to 
> consider!
you say block your vision?  i say block the cops vision.  in missouri,
(central usa) it is illegal to drink whilst driving.  the law has
just been in effect for the past 2 years, and lots of old timers
are still operating under the old rules...

the new rules are really tough on a hot summer day.

ray harder (siia 88 -- lulu)

------------------------------

From: Mark.Kraieski@mailport.delta-air.com
Date: 22 Jan 96 09:32:41 -0500
Subject: LR's and High Power Transceivers

Has anyone out there installed mobile transceivers in their late model LR or 
RR? I am interested in putting a 100W HF rig in my Discovery. I am concerned 
about RFI damaging or confusing the ABS or SRS electronics. It could be real 
annoying to have the airbags deploy when I first go to transmit! Some 
manufacturers provide two-way radio installation guides for their vehicles. 
Others just say don't do it. Has anyone contacted LR for advise on radio 
installation? Just thought I'd check before I start poking around within LR.

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 06:35:13 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Towing Capacity

I believe the towing spec in England is 3500 Kilos. I guess it
was two difficult to convert...

Russ Burns
91 R-Rover
94 D-90
:wq

At 04:51 PM 1/21/96 -0700, Lee Zeltzer wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Once again my lack of vehicular understanding is disclosing itself.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)]
>Tucson, AZ 85701
>lzeltzer@isdnet.com
Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 09:35:46 -0500
From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi)
Subject: re: ROVER RENTALS

LR Rob Dog basically said:
"Enterprise rentals now rents LR products.  Hope they've got D90s."

When at LRMW I heard that Enterprise bought a fleet of Discos.  Hopefully
they will be available in the good offroading places out west (e.g., Las
Vegas).      -Bob

  rvirzi@gte.com             Think Globally. ===
  +1(617)466-2881                            === Act Locally!

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 08:39:14 -0600
Subject: Frame Replacement Log: Week 2

(Whats going on with the major? At least half the time it bounces my   
posts back. Anyone else experiencing problems?)

This week's Tool of The Week (TOTW): The 4.5 inch Hand Grinder!

A word about our TOTW: If your even even *thinking* about doing a job   
like this and don't have one of these, BUY ONE! I managed to scam one   
from a neighbor, and it's absolutly the greatest thing for this project.   
I've used it more than any other for both cutting and rust removal. I   
also learned about "the Drill Chill Factor" - thats the effect of exhaust   
of a high speed power tool blowing fridged air to super low wind chills   
accross exposed skin surfaces.

(The 35,000 btu kerosene torpedo heater is a close second...)

This week, my goal was to finish prepping the frame and paint it. Well,   
the prep is done now but I haven't started the paint.

A few things intervened this week so I didn't get as much done as I would   
have liked. I was still sick on monday and tuesday, so I opted not to go   
out into the cold for fear of prolonging my illness. Wednesday and   
thursday I was able to put in a few hours, but the cold limited that, and   
friday was a PR night with the friends who were loaning me the 35K BTU   
heater (hip hip, hooray!).

So with the hand grinder in hand, I attacked the frame with corse sanding   
disks and removed 95% of the surface rust. Areas that I can't get to with   
the grinder I'll try to get to with a power drill and wire wheel. I   
bought two kinds of rustoleum primer, for rusty and clean surfaces, and   
the hard to reach areas will get the rusty surface primer. After that,   
its flat black over the whole thing. If I can get two coats on, so much   
the better. I didn't begin painting because I couldn't get the temp up   
enough in the garage. I've got another heater coming from another friend,   
so with that I should be able to get the temp up into the 50s(f).

I've been offered a number of suggestions for coating the new frame for   
more permanant rust protection, everything from galvanizing to   
powdercoating to having it dipped in beeswax(!). Thanks for the   
suggestions, but I think I'm just going to paint it. The thought of   
trasporting it again gives me the willies, plus I don't have the spare   
couple hundred. I'll just have to be more diligent about keeping it clean   
and cared for.

With the frame ready, it was time to continue removing bits from the   
assembled landie. Again, the hand grinder was a godsend. I had to grind   
the heads off of all the floor screws except two, and numerous other   
bolts.

I continued by removing the floor. My first obstical was the Atlantic   
British footwell insert on the passenger side. To remove it, the heater   
core and blower (kodiak) had to be removed. Once I got the insert out, I   
could really see the extent of the bulkhead damage. The whole passenger   
footwell was *gone*, as was most of the lower 6" of doorpost. Driver side   
isn't much better. Anybody need a good condition footwell insert?

Getting the floor out now was partly a result of me wanting to look over   
the gearbox and xfer case linkage. A few weeks ago (last time I drove   
it), I had to put it into 4WD to move it in the snow. It took more effort   
than I thought to get it into 4x4, but it was really cold and all that   
90wt was bound to be thick. Well, it wouldn't come back out of 4WD - it   
felt like the linkage jammed. After I got the floor out and could see   
what was going on, it looked like the arm, which was very rusty, was   
wedged against the xfer case housing. I applied a little penetrating oil   
to the arm, and that seemed to free it up, as I could then move the arm   
downward, but not up enough to get it out of 4WD. Then the arm pivot pin   
sheared off and I was left holding the arm in my hand. Sheesh. So getting   
that pin out of the xfer case is the first thing that I've created while   
doing this.

The second thing is going to be getting the front bumper off. Three of   
the four bolts sheared in half. The design is such the you're supposed to   
the the nut out the bottom and the bolt out the top, but there isn't room   
to take the nut and half a bolt out the bottom. Grrrrr.

As you can probably guess, this truck is pretty much rusted together into   
a unit. Separating it back into its component pieces is going to the   
hardest part; reassembly (with all those shiney new bolts) is going to be   
a snap (he deludes himself at this point instead of considering insurance   
fraud and torching the garage).

Archaeology:

I had to pull the dash panel to disconnect the blower lead wire. Behind   
it I found a 1967 dime, a mouse garage (the house is behind the temp/oil   
pressure guage), a couple of screws and a pushpin, and an unfired 12   
guage shotgun shell. The shell was an old one with a paper casing.   
Wouldn't that have been fun on a nice, hot summer day, with all that   
engine heat against the bulkhead, bouncing over rough terrain, and that   
little baby decides to let go...

My biggest bane so far is that I don't have committed help. So far, I've   
done pretty much everything alone, except the frame stuff with Ray last   
weekend. Whats hard is that often my arm span isn't long enough or that   
bolts are positioned that you have to have to people to remove them. I   
have offers from a few friends for this week, so hopefully I can make   
some headway, but I don't know how long their interest will last.

Next week its get the wings and grill off; start painting if its warm   
enough; and begin to transfer the steering linkage and other front end   
components.

Tim
 ---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 06:37:26
From: dlague@gnn.com (Dick Lague)
Subject: Range Rover Great Divide for Sale

I have a very clean and mechanically perfect RR Great Divide for 
sale.  What is a great Divide.  These are the first 300 1991 models 
sent to the USA.  Supposed to be replicas of 8 vehicles that took a 
press group from the the length of the Rockies on the Great Divide. 
 The expedition was made into a TV documentary.  I have the tape 
ane the original press release.  Tehy are all numbered [this one 
#92] with a plaque in the door. All Great Divides are white with 
beige leather interior.

Equipment includes sunroof, leather, American walnut, CD player 
Safari front bumper, running boards, tail light guards.  Also has 
11" Hellas, Bilstein gas shocks, new Michelins.  Has a Safari 
aluminum roof rack as well. 

Headliner, leather, carpeting all perfect. 

I am second owner.  Was purchased in Scottsdale AZ.  Spent the rest 
of the time in Los Angeles.  All recors.  meticulous service.  Need 
to make room for somthing older.

Asking $23,000.00 USD.  Just passed California smog and just 
re-registered.

e-mail or call 213.782.2225

Dick Lague

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 10:04:57 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: OVLR birthday party date?

On Sun, 21 Jan 1996 JEPurnell@aol.com wrote:

> Senior Dixon, or other informed lro-er, is the date set for the next birthday
> party at Silver Lake?  And, I looked on a map but couldn't find it, can you
> give  its approx location?  Am gettin' married Jun 23rd, and thought it'd be
> a great drive afterwards (...and so does she! It wasn't ALL my idea.)  

	The date is still under discussion.  There is a split between those
	who desire it the weekend before the 23rd and those who want it on
	the following weekend (the following is the Dominion/Canada Day 
	weekend, thus a long weekend for us as well as being a week ahead
	of the Downeast Rally in Maine.  When decided, it will be announced.

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 10:13:56 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Rover Rentals

Dear All,
        This past fall I was in Martha's Vineyard for the day, doing an
inspection on a 109. As we drove through town we saw multiple D90's. Turns
out that the big rental company on the island, Hertz or someone, rents
D90's! We drove by a row of six or seven ready for beach driving or
whatever! The local tow truck operator told us in the summer he pulls them
out of the salt water to the tune of about one a day!
        Might be a good vacation!
        A note to TeriAnn, come on, please spell *Dormobile* correctly, it
is not Doormobile, as in vehicle with a lot of doors! It is Dormobile as in
french for *sleeping car*! Keep up the good info.,BTW, I might have a
Dormobile wardrobe client for you, I'll pass on your email address.

Mike Smith, East Coast Rover Co.

------------------------------

From: crash@merl.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 10:08:25 -0500
Subject: Polarity and the CB radio

There's an easy fix for you....

Get a couple of RF-grade capacitors, and build yourself a DC block.

The idea is simple- AC current can go through a capacitor, DC cannot.
(this is also used in those X-10 remote control boxes).

CB radio is around 27 MHz.  Impedance (sort of resistance) of a 
capacitor is 1/C (pi*f).  So, if you use a 1-microfarad capacitor
you've inserted the equivalent of 1/83 of an ohm of resistance,
which is negligible.  A tenth-microfarad cap would be under .1 ohm.

(to those of you with a mathematical bent- DC has frequency of "zero",
so the above equation gives the "impedance" for DC of 1 / 0 which is
either infinity or undefined.  The correct answer is "infinity", and
so the capacitor looks like an open circuit for the DC which is what
Dixon needs to block).

To build it- take a piece of coax with the proper connectors at both
ends to be attached right at the back of the radio and have the
anntenna attach to the other end.  A piece about one foot long 
would be great.

Get yourself two capacitors of rating between .1 and 1 microfarad,
RF grade.  Mica, ceramic, and polystyrene are good.  Electrolytics 
are NOT good for this application.

Also, get yourself some electrical tape.

Cut your coax in the middle.  You'll see an outer cylindrical
braid of copper wire (or maybe aluminium foil, then a layer of
insulation (usually a white plastic) then a center conductor 
that's usually a single strand of copper.

Carefully cut the outer plastic insulation and unbraid the 
outer braid til you have something like this: (to rough scale- 
make it about 4 cm long overall.

	The copper center conductor	|
					|
	white plastic insulation	-
	                               | |
				       | |
	braid (untangled, and twisted  ///////~~~~~~~
		off to one side)       ///	
				       ///
	black plastic outer insul.    |   |
	                              |   |

Do this to both ends.  Now, get out the soldering iron (bribe
a friend with one if you don't have one yourself)

Solder one wire of one capacitor to each centre conductor
wire.  You have two wires out the capacitor, and two center
conductor wires, so this uses one capacitor.  It does NOT 
matter which wire goes to which side

Solder one wire of one capacitor to each of the unbraided-and-
twisted braids of the coax cable.  Be careful not to overheat
the braid, because the white plastic insulation in the middle
is easy to melt away and if it melts it can short the inner
conductor to the braid.

Get out an ohmmeter and verify that the ohmmmeter shows 
infinite ohms (open circuit) between all of the center 
conductors and outer conductors, all four ways on your now-
mangled piece of coax (RF can get through, but not ohmmeter
DC)

Carefully insulate the whole mess with the tape.  Also tape
the undamaged parts of the wire so a clumsy yank can't 
tear apart your handiwork.

Retest with an ohmmeter to verify no DC connection.

Plug one end of your mangled cable into the CB, and the
other end to the antenna.  

Verify the CB still works.  If not, you may have a bad capacitor.

You may now mount your DC-blocked antenna any way you like.

	-Bill Y.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 10:15:14 -0500
From: jeff@purpleshark.com (Jeffrey A. Berg)
Subject: Re: nit picking

*3.  I put in Hella Vision lights and really like them,, but where can I
*find the 65/100 watt replacement bulbs?  If I put them in am I likely to
*fry a wire in the harness?

I have these bulbs in the Hella H4 lamps in my IIa.  They're available
through NAPA autoparts stores, as well as any Hella dealer.  Sorry, the
part number escapes me.

I didn't bother doing the math to figure if the stock wiring could take the
load.  My headlights are fed directly from the "switched" power terminals
via a relay wired to the stock harness.  I just didn't think it was worth
taking the chance...

RoverOn!

JAB

==                                                                      ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          ==================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)
==                                                                      ==

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 09:41:39 -0600
From: William Owen <ib011ca@smtpaoc.tsc.state.tn.us>
Subject:  Re: LR instructional video -Reply

After numerous calls and transfers, I finally found someone at LRNA who
knew what I was talking about.  The only video still in stock is "LR
Adventures" or something thereabouts.  I checked several dealers for
older ones with no luck.  Anyway, LRNA is sending me the one they have
for free.  It sounds like nothing but promo stuff but its free and might be
interesting.  Thanks for all the advice.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 16:58:47 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Help

>PS How do you 40 year olds cope?

With the dignity befitting our age,young man.......
Mike Rooth
(Approaching 50.From the *wrong* side).

------------------------------

From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: TV LR sightings
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 10:07:57 -0700 (MST)

Gary Mitchelson writes:
 
[ 1- On cable station FX a show called "Okavago" (sp?) they have several
[ Series LR's but the refer to them as "jeeps"!!!

My favorite LR TV series!  Actually, it's OKAVANGO, as in the Delta where 
Botswana, Zimbabwe and Namibia meet -- and it was actually filmed there.

It's a good show even if they are sloppy in their use and naming of
vehicles.  109s come and go without explanation (as if the viewer won't
notice), but they call them Rovers as often as they call them Jeeps.  In
the first episode the "bad guy" shows up in a yellow Range Rover, and
thereafter switches to a Toyota.  Keep watching.  Best LR episode has
heroes dressed in formal attire and driving to governor's ball in open LR. 
They get lost;  children come to rescue in another LR blaring rock music. 
Although filmed in 1992, the LRs are all Series IIA.  A few tourist
Forward Controls also show up now and then. 

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 09:07:51 -0800
From: Christopher Boese <cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us>
Subject: correction to list of dealers

Thanks to Kevin Kelly for this correction to the list of Land Rover 
dealers in North America. Here's the original address:

Land Rover San Jose
4040 Stevens Creek Blvd.
San Jose, CA 95129
(408) 246-7600

By the end of this month, they will be at:

5080 Stevens Creek Blvd. 
San Jose, CA 95129
(408) 247-7600

-- 

Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office
'95 beluga black (this morning, at last, featuring patches of snow) 
Discovery V8i

------------------------------

From: JEPurnell@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 12:34:20 -0500
Subject: Re: OVLR birthday party date?

In a message dated 96-01-22 11:04:39 EST, you write:

>When decided, it will be announced.
>	Rgds,

Thanks Senior.
John.

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 12:35:21 -0500
Subject: Re: nit picking. . . and Defender Aux Light Loading

In a message dated 96-01-22 10:37:10 EST, you write:

>*3.  I put in Hella Vision lights and really like them,, but where can I
>*find the 65/100 watt replacement bulbs?  If I put them in am I likely to
>*fry a wire in the harness?

So on a Defender, after you put that rack of 4  Hellas up on those nutted
tabs on the upper safari bar, where do you feed them from?  A fat relay
directly to the back of the alternator?  Or to the battery?  And where has
been a common place to mount the on/off switch?  Anyone get wild with their
Defender and add some big lights? Especially if you have those 65/100 bulbs
in the 2 front lights.   With all this talk of Lucas, I'm  afraid to add ANY
extra lights or higher wattage bulbs for fear of frying the harness.
 Over-reacting?
Though, of course, I'd love to add a pair on top there.  Is there any book
that shows these kinds of mods?
Thanks for any help,
John.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 12:51:55 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Polarity and the CB radio

On Mon, 22 Jan 1996 crash@merl.com wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jan 1996 wrm@ccii.co.za wrote:

1.	I presume that 2 capacitors are being used to keep the system
	in phase.  (Do you need the second capacitor though?  The centre
	strand is isolated from the braid and thus from the ground already.
	Will it go out of phase?)

2.	Electrolytic capacitors are to be avoided because of the delay
	they will put into the circuit, thus throwing it out of phase
	I presume.
	
3.	I still have to isolate the radio itself from the conductive
	surfaces of the vehicle?  (presume so...)

	Rgds,

	Dixon

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 11:57:40 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: Rover v8 weight

;;;;;;;;
re weight---RR/buick V8 long block on pallette weighs in at 500 (aprox) lbs
chev 350 weighs in at 450-500. 350 horsepower vs under 200. also you may
need to revalve the trans. 87 has lower shift points than the newer ones
and the internals might not like any hp increase.
;;;;;;;;;

The complete motor, no ancill., weighs in at 305 lbs.  I carried a bare block
100' to my garage yesterday.  With the engine stand head.
 How could a 3.9l Al motor outweigh a 5.7l Fe motor?  Kryptonite crank?

Jan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 09:59:07 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Swaping RR 1990-1991 ECU s

Alan -- yes they still used the 3.9 on the short wheelbase version

Cheers

John

On Sat, 20 Jan 1996, Alan Hood wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> with the larger engine of the LWB?
> Alan Hood

------------------------------

From: Mike Fredette~ <mfredett@sedona.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Defender tools
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 11:03:05 -0700 (MST)

 
 To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
 
 On Sat, 20 Jan 1996 JEPurnell@aol.com wrote:
 
 > Hi David,
 > Say, can you tell me what those nuts are that hold teh valve cover down?  Are
	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 9 lines)]
 > thanks.
 > JOhn.
 
 Dear John:
 I've looked at mine and don't know *what* they are. I tried my various 
sockets and nut drivers (all hex: standard or metric).
 Since I've already made a fool of myself by putting 10 quarts of oil into 
 my D90 last weekend, I could post the question to the list. :*0
 If you find out what they are, would you please e-mail me?
 Best wishes, 
 David
******************************************************************************

	OK kids, these puzzling fasteners are not as puzzling as you think. they
are simple 10mm but instead of a 6 point hex, it's a 12 point pattern, so any
12 point, 10 mm socket will work.

Rgds
Mike Fredette
D90 Phoenix, Az
 

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 12:08:43 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Help

 
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> >PS How do you 40 year olds cope?
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Mike Rooth
> (Approaching 50.From the *wrong* side).

When I turned 40 I gave up coping. Figured it was a waste of time. 

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 13:14:34 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: price for 1994 LR-Defender 2 door (fwd)

	Received this message via email.  I must admit that I am not
	the greatest expert when it comes to Defenders, let alone
	pricing them...  Anyone have any ideas on the value of a
	used D90?

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 1996 17:55:20 EST
From: MR ROBERT J SCHREIMAN <QTVZ75A@prodigy.com>
Subject: price for 1994 LR-Defender 2 door

Dixon, I am curious to know how much a used LR-Defender would go for? 
 This model has a V8 engine,1995 clutch system, air cond., radio and 
front grill bars.  It also comes with the 2 diffrent soft tops.  The 
car has 16-17000 miles on it and looks like new.  The used car dealer 
wants $24,900.00.  It also has a 2-year warranty on it.  Man what a 
car!!!  I know that you are probably not a dealer, but I figure you 
might know what the price range is for this car or maybe you can 
point me in the right direction.  Thanks----Rob  

------------------------------

From: Willyz@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 13:23:49 -0500
Subject: Oil Pressure Guage fix?

 >> One question perhaps someone on the List can help me with:
> The oil pressure guage does not work.  With new oil pump, >bearings, and a
>functioning oil pressure warning light I did not loose any >sleep over this
>last night - but I would like to get it right.  Any hints on >trouble
shooting
>the sender and guage?  Any resistance specs availa

Check the wiring behind the speedo. The oil pressure guage wire has a
junction behind the instruments (green wire?) before it attaches to the
voltage stabilizer mounted on the back of the speedo. If either of these is
loose or disconnected that could be you problem. 

How do I know this? Why just yesterday I replaced my speedo after have gotten
it recalibrated for 16" wheels and 7.50's. Put it all back together and
...... no oil pressure guage! 

Not to worry, all is well now AND I know how fast (or slow) I'm going. It
will take me awhile to get used to a steady speedometer needle, the ol' "30
mph sway" is GONE! I had the guage recalibrated at MoMa in New Mexico.
Recomended by Steve at British Pacific, they seem to have done a fine job.
Recalibrated, cleaned and painted the bezel for only $75. I got it back 10
days after sending it out.

Bill Kaszer
Manhattan, Kansas USA
73 Series III

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 13:09 EST
From: "Shari M. Judy" <0004297420@mcimail.com>
Subject: Please delete my Name

-- [ From: Shari M. Judy * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] --

Please delete my name from your mailing list. I have broken
up with my boyfriend who I gave the info to.

Thanks--

Shari Judy

------------------------------

Date: 22 Jan 1996 10:26:16 U
From: "Bill Wright" <Bill_Wright@cpqm.saic.com>
Subject: [1]The Land Rover Owner Dai

        Reply to:   [1]The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Warmest regards from Costa Rica.  I currently plan to return to the office on
January 29th.  If you absolutely need to contact me while I'm on vacation,
both Lynda Houston and Millie Steele have my itinerary and phone numbers.
I'll take action on your e-mail as soon as I can.
Bill
------------------------------

Date: 1/22/96 8:01 AM
From: Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.co

!!! Original message was too large.
!!!
!!! It is contained in the enclosure whose name
!!! is the same as the subject of this message.
!!!
!!! A preview of the message follows:

Land-Rover-Owner List &  Land Rover Owner Daily Digest List

Send submissions to the list to:	lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net

To UNSUBSCRIBE send a message to:		MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
	with the text:				unsubscribe lro-digest
	
Tell your friends SUBSCRIBE send a message to:	MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
with the text:					subscribe lro-digest

Majordomo can also respond to other commands, send text:	help

	  Contents:
  1 sinasohn@crl.com   Sun Jan 21 04:11   27/1429  Re: DYI... (was: Range Ro
  2 sinasohn@crl.com   Sun Jan 21 04:13   53/2108  Re: Opening beer bottles 
  3 sinasohn@crl.com   Sun Jan 21 04:22   60/3364  In Memoriam
  4 tomw@netcom.com    Sun Jan 21 04:51   59/3071  Re: Condensation in Disco
  5 tomw@netcom.com    Sun Jan 21 05:06   47/2193  RE: list of Land Rover de
  6 Bill_Wright@cpqm.saic.com Sun Jan 21 05:14  117/5555  [1]The Land Rover
Owner D
  7 philippe.carchon@rug.ac.be Sun Jan 21 06:09   28/1518  Light-Weight
  8 jfiresto@AWI-Bremerhaven.DE Sun Jan 21 06:46   71/2282  Request Digest
Numbers
  9 lopezba@atnet.at   Sun Jan 21 08:28   49/2362  Re: Uneven braking. Stran
 10 JAMES_CIRBUS@HPATC2.desk.hp.com Sun Jan 21 08:39   39/1853  Panhard Rods
 11 lopezba@atnet.at   Sun Jan 21 08:46   44/2259  Costa Rica Mail
 12 Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Sun Jan 21 09:11   36/1421  Unsubscribe
Landrover-Own
 13 dlague@gnn.com     Sun Jan 21 09:12   24/1293  Looking for Good SIIA109"
 14 EvanD103@aol.com   Sun Jan 21 10:09   41/2640  Celebration
 15 lmkessler@srnet.com Sun Jan 21 10:19   39/1694  Re: Synthetic Oils
 16 g@ix.netcom.com    Sun Jan 21 10:22   34/1700  Assembling tow hitch and 
 17 landrvr@blacdisc.com Sun Jan 21 10:50   37/1696  Re: Disco "frozen" in pla
 18 landrvr@blacdisc.com Sun Jan 21 10:50   45/2325  Re: The clog from Central
 19 burns@cisco.com    Sun Jan 21 12:29   67/3140  D-90 heater fix
 20 PurnellJE@aol.com  Sun Jan 21 17:26   26/1489  Re: D-90 heater fix
 21 ecrover@midcoast.com Sun Jan 21 17:38   32/1688  D90 eyebrows
 22 baileyr@cuug.ab.ca Sun Jan 21 18:16   33/1705  Re: Rover Rentals and ful
 23 tonyy@BoM.GOV.AU   Sun Jan 21 18:37   22/1082  krazy kev
 24 tonyy@BoM.GOV.AU   Sun Jan 21 18:43   32/1619  Re: Rover Rentals and ful
 25 lzeltzer@isdnet.com Sun Jan 21 18:51   36/1633  Towing Capacity
 26 tonyy@BoM.GOV.AU   Sun Jan 21 19:18   35/1641  Re: Towing Capacity
 27 NADdMD@aol.com     Sun Jan 21 19:28   27/1509  Restoration Update
 28 tonyy@BoM.GOV.AU   Sun Jan 21 20:00   30/1224  Re: Restoration Update
 29 TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com Sun Jan 21 20:15   23/1325  Re: transfer lever
ratle
 30 dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au Sun Jan 21 20:34   33/1608  Re: leaking swivel
ball s
 31 ttownsend@why.net  Sun Jan 21 20:36   25/1145  Re: D90 90mph governor
 32 dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca Sun Jan 21 21:21   23/1456  Antifreeze in Engine
 33 skillman@clark.net Mon Jan 22 02:21   55/3083  Re: Towing Capacity
 34 swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu Mon Jan 22 02:25   42/1737  <lro's in NC

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Jan 1996 01:01:38 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: DYI... (was: Range Rovers off road )

DYI...  Would that be Do Yourself In?  It would be in my case!  8^)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Jan 1996 01:02:03 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Opening beer bottles (was: Re: Range Rovers off road)

>           bolt
>           ####
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>   .|       \  R ./
>   |         \__/

A couple problems....

First, this assumes you've installed your bolts pointing downward.  Whereas, 
I've got mine pointing up because it looks better.  Second, it also assumes 
you're willing to risk breaking your windscreen on a particularly stubborn 
cap.

But most importantly, is the safety issues.  If you're driving along, do you 
re

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 10:31:52 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: nit picking. . . and Defender Aux Light Loading

Dear John,
I've seen the LRNA Aux Light setup on a D90 at the Seattle dealer (at a 
car show). The aux light switch looks just like the regular light switch, 
but mounts on the opposite side of the steering column (so looks very 
convenient, and "stock"). I don't know if you can buy the wiring harness 
and switch separately, or whether you have to buy the whole "accessory" 
[lights, wiring and switch]. 
I'd like to mount aux. fog lights lower (eg inside the confines of the 
"brush bar", and use the LRNA switch, but haven't made serious inquiries 
about the details because I can't buy any more toys until I get the D90 
paid off :-(   but that won't long     :-)  

(I do not know the specfics of the wiring harness for the aux. lights, 
but I remember that the sales info for D90 accessories had both 2- and 
4-light options)

David

------------------------------

From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: Quaiffe Diffs...?
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 11:31:14 MST

"Tom Walsh" <tomw@netcom.com> says:

    soon to be installed: OME Springs and shocks, Quaiffe limited slip 
    diff, BF goodrich Trac Edge Tires, rock sliders

Sorry, but I've got a bunch of questions:

When did Quaiffe come out with a diff that fits Land Rovers? I knew
they had units for Porsche's and VW's, but I wasn't aware of their LR
offerings. I just had ARB airlockers put in my D90, but would have
considered Quaiffe (based on what I've read about them in sports car
magazines).

Are they tough enough for serious off-road use? Do they lock-up 100%?
How much wheel spin before they lock?

Are Quaiffe's, Torsen's, and TrueTrack's all based on the same design?
In various places I've seen them all described as "gear-driven limited
slips", but that can mean a lot of different things.

Inquiring minds want to know!

--
Jeffrey J. Gauvin		email: jeff.gauvin@symbios.com
Symbios Logic Inc.		Voice: 719-573-3563
1635 Aeroplaza Dr.		FAX: 719-573-3824
Colorado Springs, CO 80916

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 13:49:28 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Re: Swaybars

Hi all,
Just talked to Greg Pfifer at ARB the distributor for OME suspensions. 
Greg tells me that the sway bars on the Def 90 only tie up the axles at 
maximum articulation about 1 to 2". All the other suspension components 
panhard rod, radius arms etc. limit travel also. If you remove the 
swaybars you will be gaining a slight bit more travel but at the risk of 
stressing the other suspension components that remain and possibly causing 
damage over time.

If you have some sort of locking differential, ARB air locker or similar, 
the extra travel really doesn't gain you anything because you have full 
traction at both wheels on the axle anyhow.

Just thought others might want to know.

P.S. Greg thinks that all Land Rovers produced for public sale have 
swaybars.

Cheers,
Barnett.

 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 11:59:24 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: Re: Rover v8 weight

On Mon, 22 Jan 1996, Jan Ben wrote:
numbers were given by RR dealer. ill trade 150 lbs for 150 hp any day!
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> ;;;;;;;;
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
> 100' to my garage yesterday.  With the engine stand head.
>  How could a 3.9l Al motor outweigh a 5.7l Fe motor?  Kryptonite crank?
> Jan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 11:24:24 -0800
From: "Dr. Ted Walkley" <twalkley@multicare.com>
Subject: "thunk" in Disco driveline

I have a 95 Disco with 34K miles and I'll preface this with the statement I
love the car. Yes there have been a miriad of small problems but its British
for God's sake and it has character. (of course the comparison car is our
1969 88 Series IIA (subset series I-III depending on the source of parts).
The dealer is another one of those quirks that could be discussed at length.
        Recuuring problem addressed at every scheduled service is a "thunk"
fron somewhere in ther driveline. It is ittermittent occurs when starting
for rest ( forward or back) is felt as much as heard and seems to  be mid
front. It is distinct from the also occasionsal driveline wrapup thunk when
shifting to drive or reverse ( yes it is an automatic bu you have to keep
all family members happy when you are a 2 LR family)
        Fixes todate according to dealer. Tightened suspension bolts,
adjusted transmission mounts, they all do it, we fixed it but don'y know
what we did. Seems better but is usually back in 1-2K miles. It seems like
driveline wrapup, loose splines it could be something loose that hits the
bottom of the car. Before the 7500 service ity was constant now
intermittent. Before i go in at 36K I'd like to give them some new ideas any
thoughts from the group. 

Unrelated to this but typiccal of the dealer.
1) Dealer used aftermarket oil filter at 30K service ($700) and it leaked. (
Not as bad as the IIa but noticiable when I went to do mid oil change.
2) engine knock under hard acceration even with tune up and trying several
gasolines
3)leak in windsheid before and after replacement due to rock damage

They don't seem to understand that some ( many) of us who by a Disco are
understanding about the problems but at the sametime knowledgible and want
the small problems  fixed. A long list is not dissatisfaction with the car
but part of owning a LR ( Just my $0.02)
Ted Walkley
Tacoma WA
1995 Disco
1969 88 Series IIa ( the antichrist)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 11:43:36 PST
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: nit picking. . . and Defender Aux Light Loading

>>*3.  I put in Hella Vision lights and really like them,, but where can I
>>*find the 65/100 watt replacement bulbs?  If I put them in am I likely to
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 18 lines)]
>Thanks for any help,
>John.
You pretty much have to have to run a relay to protect the harness.  
This is one of those area where safe is much better than sorry and a
burned up D90.  I'd rather an extra relay than a mistaken assumption or
current calculation that said I didn't need one.  Fuse everything, relay
everything and you should be all right.

My 3 Hellas are off the battery.  There are two empty switch spots next to
the dash dimmer switch in NAS spec D90.  I filled them up.  Then moved
the dimmer switch up underneath the dash, (actually John(?) at Safari Gard 
did the work) and put a third switch in its spot.  Don't use the dimmer often.
Three swiches are narrow beam, wide beam, work light/reverse light.

-Rick

-Rick

Richard Larson
LSI Logic Corporation
(408) 433-7149

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 12:01:36 -0800
From: Christopher Boese <cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us>
Subject: Re: "thunk" in Disco driveline

Dr. Ted Walkley wrote:

>         Recuuring problem addressed at every scheduled service is a "thunk"
> fron somewhere in ther driveline. It is ittermittent occurs when starting
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> shifting to drive or reverse ( yes it is an automatic bu you have to keep
> all family members happy when you are a 2 LR family)

As you do, I often hear that driveline wrapup thunk when shifting. But I also sometimes hear it 
when starting from rest, putting on power while driving, and when letting off the throttle. I've 
not been worried about it, thanks to a thread here on the list a couple of months ago in which 
various people commented on this noise and seemed to decide it's normal driveline slop, put there 
intentionally by Land Rover. Others may have come to different conclusions, but it was my 
impression that this noise is normal.

-- 

Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office
'95 beluga black Discovery V8i

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 12:08:14 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Please delete my Name

 The things you have to put up with to get a Land Rover....

>Please delete my name from your mailing list. I have broken
>up with my boyfriend who I gave the info to.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Thanks--
>Shari Judy
Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Opening beer bottles (was: Re: Range Rovers off road) 
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 12:16:02 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <199601210902.AA13044@crl8.crl.com>you wrote:

Roger Sinasohn wrote:
--------begin text---------------------------------------------------
           bolt
           ####
        |===||===  <-top of winscreen
       .|  (||)
    G  |  /`||
    L .| / \
   A  | /\  \__
   S .| ` \    \
  S  |    | B   \
    .|    \  E   \
    |      \  E   \
   .|       \  R ./
   |         \__/
   |
 
 A couple problems....
 
 First, this assumes you've installed your bolts pointing downward.  Whereas, 
 I've got mine pointing up because it looks better.  Second, it also assumes 
 you're willing to risk breaking your windscreen on a particularly stubborn 
 cap.

--------end text---------------------------------------------------

	You mean someone actually cares about the aestetic views of a Rover? :)
If you care all that much, you could put the headliner bit in and cover up the
unsightly bolts.  Or you could install one bolt hanging down as an opener.
After taking the top off and putting it on a dozen or so times, I find that it
is much, much easier to have the nuts on the bottom where my fingers can get
at them (I have the rest of the headliner installed).  Buy YMMV.  Besides Roger,
you have a SII with the metal "bottle opener" dash.  No worries!

	Regarding your other concern, my picture was a bit off.  If you looked
at your windscreen, you find that the cap will only contact the metal trim
of the windscreen.  No glass invoved (excepting the bottle of course).

           bolt
           ####
    M  ||===||===  <-top of winscreen
    e .||  (||)
    t ||  /`||
   a .|| / \
   l || /\  \__
    .|| ` \    \
    ||    | B   \
    ==    \  E   \
G   |      \  E   \
l  .|       \  R ./
a  |         \__/
s  |
s

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 14:14:15 -0800
From: Keith Morehouse-WB9TIY <blckhole@ripco.com>
Subject: Frozen/Stuck Disco

"Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com> had a problem with a frozen Disco after an 
abrupt freeze.

I suspect the cause was a frozen parking brake mechanisim.  Up in REAL 
cold country, people don't use their parking brakes for just those 
reasons.  Once you put them on, they tend to stay on - until it thaws !! 
My Dad, who lives in the U.P. (of Michigan der, ya know, eh ?) only uses 
HIS parking brake for those great 180 degree turns on the snow pack (or 
on the ice...)

In this part of the Upper Midwest (north central IL) we get a lot of that 
kind of junk.  Matter of fact, late last week it hit 58F at Noon (with 
rain) and was down to -5F with 50 MPH winds by the next morning - fun 
stuff, 'eh !  Needless to say, I had to just about pry open the rear door 
of the Disco to gain entry, seeing that I had been out driving in said 58 
degrees and rain.  Once inside, generous application of bodily force to 
the inside of the 4 side doors got them to open - pity those poor door 
seals !!

---------------------------###-----------------------------
PROBE ELECTRONICS 100 Higgins Road, Park Ridge IL 60068 USA
Keith J. Morehouse / WB9TIY / Society of Midwest Contesters
847-696-2828  FAX: 847-698-2045  e-mail: blckhole@ripco.com
---------------------------###-----------------------------

------------------------------

From: JEPurnell@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 15:14:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Defender tools/valve cover bolts

In a message dated 96-01-22 07:54:17 EST, you write:

>get the proper tool and check/retighten them as needed at 
>each oil change.

Ha, turns out they are simple 8mm 12 points. Boy do I feel like a real
mechanic.   I must have thought I tried a 12 point, and it must've been a 6
sided socket which of course wouldn't fit.  I just took care of mine, and use
the 12sided 8mm.
JOhn. The Anti-leaker. (can it be so?)

PS, I put synthetic Mobil1 10/30 in the truck at 8788 miles, and with 13,565
today, it is still near  full, no excessive leaks or loss of the syth. oil.
--of course, when I filled it up I put 10 quarts in it, like the
 book said  :')

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 15:16:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Help

In a message dated 96-01-22 12:33:25 EST, you write:

>PS How do you 40 year olds cope?

With the dignity befitting our age,young man.......
Mike Rooth
(Approaching 50.From the *wrong* side).>

. . . and remember:
Age and treachery will always beat youth and skill. (smokey unick i think...)

john

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 15:40:51 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Re: Winter cleaning/road salt

Hi All,

This might sound stupid but.....

How is everyone out there keeping their soft top D90 clean in all this bad 
weather? I have gone to the local do it yourself car wash but they won't 
let you really wash your truck. You have to use there brush and it just 
doesn't get between the brush bar, roll cage, etc. so I just rinse off as 
much dirt and road salt as I can. I have noticed some of the bolts getting 
a powdery white coat on them and all I've been able to do is spray them 
with WD40. We have gotten so much snow this season, and the roads have 
been salted so much I'm concerned with corrosion. Has anyone dared to take 
their D90 thru a "touchless" car wash??

Filthy in MASS!
Barnett

------------------------------

From: Simon Barclay <sbar@jna.com.au>
Subject: RE: LR's and High Power Transceivers
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 96 07:45:00 EST

Hi Mark

It's pretty common practice here in Oz.. Quite a number of Disco's and RR's 
running round with Codan HF's (2-30 Mhz) and auto trim antenna.  I haven't 
heard any stories of them causing problems with ABS.  But there were stories 
a few years ago where they were activating air bags on Fords.  The Royal 
Flying Doctor Service (RFDS) still uses them extensively in the outback 
(although they are moving to satellite phones slowly  - lot of people can't 
afford those yet).  You could try contacting Codan direct, they are based in 
South Australia and I know there a couple of guys on the list from there, 
maybe they could dig up a phone/fax number for you!!

The UN in Bosnia also operated them on the 110's, Disco's and RR's I seem to 
recall from TV.

Simon Barclay
Sydney Australia

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 16:41:13 -0800
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Subscribe

Subscribe to lro

------------------------------

From: debrown@srp.gov
Date: 22 Jan 96 14:15:35 MST
Subject: Need a RR "origiinal equip" tire

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
Does anyone have a original equipment type tire for a RR? I had a sidewall
puncture (tear) while 4 wheeling this last weekend. I eventually want to get
a much more aggressive tire (BFG MT Radial) but the tires I have only have
around 10K miles on them. Anyone want to part with a decent tire?

I'm in the Phoenix Arizona area.

Please e-mail me at    debrown@srp.gov

Thanks,

#=======#         _________           We make a living by what we get,
|__|__|__\___    //__/__|__\___        we make a life by what we give.
| _|  |   |_ |}  \__/-\_|__/-\_|}
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                       Winston Churchill

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 13:23:46 -0800
Subject: UK LR meet question

This is a question for the people in the UK

Anyone have an opinion as to which UK Land Rover meet has the best
autojumble/use parts for sale?

I would like to visit a UK Land Rover meet this year and would love to be
able to pick over a large selection of used land Rover parts while looking at
all the cars.

Event, location, dates?

Thanks

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 05:48:10 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: re:: Swaybars; Evil menace or not?

On Mon, 22 Jan 1996, barnett childress wrote:

> It would be interesting to measure wheel travel,axle articulation with and 
> without the swaybars to see just how much they tie up the suspension, and 
> if it would be worth it to remove them?

and what would the insurance implications be?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 17:29:22 -0800
From: Nathan Dunsmore <dunsmo19@us.net>
Subject: Subscribe

subscribe lro

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 17:06:05 -0500
Subject: Spark Plugs for Range Rover

I am going to put new spark plugs in the Range Rover soon, after making a few
calls I am not sure which plugs to buy.  

I was recommended Champion RN 11 YCC, Champion RN 12 YCC, Bosch Silber, Bosch
Platinum, and NGK BPR 5ES.  

Any recommendations from list members?

Kevin Kelly
'89 Range Rover

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 16:03:08 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: The clog from Central America

Mike L. writes:
>Face it, when you get back, you don't really want to read 1000+ messages
>about doing 180's, leaking Range Rovers and oil spewing SerIIa's, now, do you?

Actually, I can't think of anything I'd rather do.
Dave "Inbox 570/1664" Bobeck

------------------------------

From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Stuck in Lake Tahoe
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 14:14:00 PST

Hi!

Took the defender up to the blizzard in Lake Tahoe this weekend, had a great
time and some good stories. Well, 3 feet of snow fell on Friday night, I 
woke up in the morning before the snow plows had a chance to clear the roads,
I went out with me in the Defender and a friend in a 1 day old Grand 
Cherokee. Well, it was great fun at first, the Defender did great plowing
throuh 3+ feet of unplowed snow, I kept the diff locked in High 4 the 
whole time, low 4 seemed not to work too well and just spin the tires. 

I got to cocky when the Grand Cherokee got stuck in seeming no snow and
I had to pull it out with the Defender (my time was coming), well leave
it to be said, I got too confident, we got going again to about 30+MPH
down the side roads, I took a turn and slid sideways into a ditch, there 
she was, my defender canted at a 40 degree or more angle, the 2 left tires
in the air, on its side. We stopped and appraised the situation, a local 
came out of a cabin and imformed me that my truck was 2'' from a 4 foot
or more drop off and ready to roll at and second (great news huh..) A
Range Rover stopped and tried to pull me out to no avail (it was actually
getting worse) Thank you for helping though (if you guys are on the net).
We waited about an hour and finally paid $40.00 to get a snow cat to pull
me out, even they had a hard time, but finally got me back on the road.

>From all this fun, I do have 1 question, I guess I don't really understand
what the locking diff of the defender does? I noticed that my 2 left tires
were spinning (beacuse they were bascially not touching the ground) and the
2 tires that were on the ground had no movement, even with the diff locked
in Low 4, is that normal? If so, what good is the locking diff compared
to normal 4 wheel drive? I am guessing that I would need something like
the detriot locker to lock up the right tires to get tracking in such
a situation?

Thanks,

Leland Roys
roys@cup.hp.com
1994 Defender-90 (red)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 16:35:02 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: D-90 heater fix

To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

I decided to see what I could do to improve the efficiency of the
heater in my 94 D-90 with air.
Looking at the design, I noticed that a large amount of heat
was blowing up my wives skirt. Now this seems a little useless to
me as it is either not necessary, or completely hopeless.....

Often for us Series owners, it's the latter:-(

Dave

------------------------------

From: Bombdiver@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 17:45:12 -0500
Subject: Comments

For the past three months I've enjoyed the posting and general banter that
goes on here.  I'm glad that the rather heated discussions concerning new
owners/dealers has gone away, at least for now.  Just thought that I'd throw
my two cents worth in on some of the topics that have come up in the past
couple of weeks.
1)  Ear plugs, in regards to the military type ear plugs (the ones with the
three baffles mounted on the center stem).  These come in three sizes and
need to be fitted to the size of your outer ear and ear canal.  You'll know
if you have the wrong size, either they fall out or you have a throbbing
headache.
2)  Roof Racks, don't make the mistake that I made and try to use your old
Yakima racks.  The tallest towers that Yakima makes don't allow the crossbars
to be spread any further than 24".  If your carrying something long (sea
kayak in my case), you'll need to get the new Thule super-high towers to
clear both the factory racks and the raised portion of the roof.  
3)  Insurance, my wife and I pay $604 every six months for insurance on my
Discovery and her Eddie Bauer Explorer (yea I know, but I still love her).
 Thats for coverage by GEICO in the Tidewater area of Virginia.
4)  Last but not least, If anyone is in the area of New Orleans for Mardi
Gras and you need a break from the party (are you crazy).  The USS Nassau is
going to be there doing a "show the flag" special.  The ship will be open for
tours.  Myself and three other EOD Techs (Bomb Disposal) will be there
showing off our toys.  That is minus our HUMMER, we don't get to take that
until cruise time..

Thanks 
Andy Baran
95 Discovery  Portifino Red   Matilda
"There are few problems that can't be solved with the proper application of a
suitable amount of high explosives"

P.S.  If anybody is interested in some barely used Yakima racks E-Mail me and
I'll give you the skinny.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 18:03:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Stuck in Lake Tahoe
From: "Andrew A. Dallas" <adallas@systemsoft.com>

It would appear that you have discovered the Achilles Heel of the 
Defender that I have as well. 

This weekend I went to visit my brother in Vermont. He lives right near a 
national forrest and there are tons of unplowed roads. My brother and I 
set off to preview the roads before we dragged more passengers with us. 
We turned down a dirt road that looked to have about 4 inches of packed 
snow on it. 

Within about 25 feet the irregularities of the crust covered snow dragged 
us into a small ditch at the side of the road. We were tilted at about 30 
degrees, the right two wheels buried to the running board. I switched 
into low/locked but was unable to back out. I managed, after a time, to 
drive forward back onto the crest of the road. 

We tried to back out from the crest but were getting dragged down into 
the ditch. Driving forward seemed to be a bit easier to control but we 
had to stay at about 10 mph to avoid getting bogged down. 

We scouted on foot for a turn around and found one about 1/2 mile down 
the road. We got back into the Defender, started it up and drove about 
250 feet into another ditch. Rats (Explitive replaced)! I shouted. 

In the passing hour, as I shoveled myself back onto the crest of the 
road, I met many amused cross country skiers. Apparently it is common for 
out-of-towners to get their 4wd vehicles stuck in nasty places although I 
did speak to one native who confided that he had been so badly stuch that 
a friend had to exticate him using a snow cat.

As we were approaching the pavement  again (in reverse) we stopped to 
break up the crust that would have dragged us back into ditch #1. A 
friendly tow truck driver stopped and offered to drag us out for a mere 
$75.00 and said it was our only opportunity. I paid the $75.00 and now 
feel a part of the pack.

Upon relating my adventure to a former J**p owner, he said he had a 
locking diff in the back. I remembered a thread here about someone (is it 
Defender #3?) who is planning to get limited slip diffs. After some 
thought, I would thjink that one limited slip in the FRONT, not the back, 
would make the most sense. Naturally having both diffs limited slip would 
be the best but I thought a two step process might be worth while and 
ease the financial burden a bit.
-AD (Soon to be limited slip I hope)

>Hi!
>Took the defender up to the blizzard in Lake Tahoe this weekend, had a great
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 39 lines)]
>Leland Roys
>roys@cup.hp.com
>1994 Defender-90 (red)

*************************************************
            Andrew A. Dallas
            Full Spectrum Software
            360 Market St.
            Suite 18
            Brighton, MA 02135, USA
            (617) 782-9829
            on-site office: (508) 647-2948
            adallas@tiac.net
            http://www.tiac.net/users/adallas/
*************************************************

------------------------------

Date: 22 Jan 96 17:57:57 EST
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Copy of: transfer lever ratle

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	William L. Leacock, 75473,3572
TO:	Lrod, Internet:lro@land-rover.team.net
DATE:	1/21/96 3:50 PM

RE:	Copy of: transfer lever ratle

Micheal Slade writes re transfer box lever rattle.  

a)  Try to tighten up the clamp bolt at the bottom of the lever , this reduces
side clearance.
b) check the clamp nut security on the end of the transfer shaft, ensure that
the end fitting is not loose.
 c) check the  clearance between the  ball on the lever and the shaft fitting.
Clearance can be reduced by  either wrapping the ball in some non metallic
material or by bending the fiting a little closer to the ball
d) if the vibration is caused by a resonant frequency changing the weight of the
lever will change the resonant frequency. I suggest that you remove the red knob
and locknut and slide a piece of rubber hose over the shaft, then refit the nut
and knob. this is a handy place to carry a bit of spare heater hose.
 I also reccommend adding some hose to the main gear lever as well, as a spare
piece of hose and as a frequency changer and  also as an insulator for the hand
in winter 

   Regards    Bill Leacock   Limey in exile

------------------------------

Date: 22 Jan 96 17:57:54 EST
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Copy of: Michelin 205  tyres

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	William L. Leacock, 75473,3572
TO:	Lrod, Internet:lro@land-rover.team.net
DATE:	1/21/96 3:54 PM

RE:	Copy of: Michelin 205  tyres

William Owen writes re 205 michelin tyres
 The michelin tyre  date book give tyhe following 
 infflated section     5.5 in   rim  203 mm
		6 in rim  208 mm
		6.5 in rim  213 mm
overall diameter   736 mm
static laden radius   337 mm
revolutions per mile    721

 Regards  Bill  Leacock  Limey in exile

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 18:25:22 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: TwoDoorMobile

Dear All and TeriAnn,
        OK so I'm a little slow. Duncan sent me an email and explained the
twodoormobile joke. Eh Dah, well I get it now, 2 door, but a Dormobile,
better late then never.

Mike Smith, East Coast Rover Co.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 18:22:01 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Used rangies

*Still* considering that used '90 County down here.  The guy steadfastly 
refuses to budge on the price.  Supposedly, someone flew in from Morganton, 
WV, and the dealer "gave him a ride back to the airport" when he tried to 
dicker him down.

Anyway, once the state sales tax and all is paid, the price is around $17.5K 
- like three times more that I have ever paid for a vehicle - and that was 
*new*.  I tried to console myself by updating the purchase price of my '72 
Series III for inflation since then.  About $12.5k today, so that's not to 
bad (I think).  Anybody else on this side of the pond think that $17k is a 
good price for a 1990?  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 18:32:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Winter cleaning/road salt

In a message dated 96-01-22 15:59:10 EST, you write:

>This might sound stupid but.....
>How is everyone out there keeping their soft top D90 clean in all this bad 
>weather?

I think the first time through the the automatic car wash would be the last.
 Even the touchless washes would fill up the inside quick, at least on mine,
the top doesn't seal real well at the rearward vertical portion at the
doortops, and it IS a Besttop.  Plush those nice little spots at the corners
of the windscreen...straight in. 

I've been spraying mine off very 3 days or so, but not hand washing, just the
spray.   Got some tips from David R about where the mud and crud likes to
hole up, and I get those areas well.  I've noticed the front bumper holds a
lot of crud, just behind the lights.  Also, the tube horizontal supports,
gotta get them good.  And especially behind the rear wheels, straight up
inside the rear corner on the rear  quarter panel.  I spray up there and the
water never falls completely clean.  

I looked under today and in fact do see a bunch of the white salt remains
working their magic on the frame and the underside of the floorboards.  It
looks more than dirty, and a little surface rusty.  I'd like to find a hoist
with a spraywasher, and get it from underneath, probably have to wear scuba
gear and a football helmet.  

JOH.n

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 23:15:27 GMT
From: newconcept@tcp.co.uk (David Olley at NEW CONCEPT)
Subject: Re: UK LR meet question

>Anyone have an opinion as to which UK Land Rover meet has the best
>autojumble/use parts for sale?

Hi TeriAnn

Many will probably tell you to attend the LRO International annual bash at
Billing, Northamptonshire. This event is exclusively for the Land Rover
marque, and usually attracts about 5,000 Landy's of all types. You will find
info in forthcoming LRO mags.

Alternatively, a week earlier there is the Off Road & Four Wheel Drive Show
at West Wycombe, near London. Land Rover World has its own section at this show.

All the trade are at both shows. I don't have the dates to hand right now,
but I am sure someone else will provide them.

If you don't like beer choose the latter, because I am afraid Billing has a
large beer tent, which tends to lead some of us astray - especially after
hours, when those thousands of campers just will not go to bed. LRW thinks
that selling beer to vehicle owners will inevitably lead to drink driving.
So they don't sell beer. 

Billing is busier!

Regards

David Olley
............................................................................
.........
Winchester, England
Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367
    Home Page:  http://www.tcp.co.uk/~newconcept
............................................................................
.........

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 16:44:48 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Used rangies

Doesn't sound like too bad a price to mee, especially if it includes 
sales tax!

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

On Mon, 22 Jan 1996, Alexander P. Grice wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> *Still* considering that used '90 County down here.  The guy steadfastly 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 25 lines)]
>       |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
>       *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 16:47:59 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: re:: Swaybars; Evil menace or not?

I don't know what the legality or insurance implications are of removing 
sway bars -- or other suspension mods. Mostly you read about "sway bar 
disconnects" which imply you hook them up again when you hit pavement.

Does anyone else know?

Cheers

John Brabyn

On Mon, 22 Jan 1996, barnett childress wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> All,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> if it would be worth it to remove them?
> Barnett.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 16:57:05 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: re:: Swaybars; Evil menace or not?

Barnett Childress penned the immortal words:
> It would be interesting to measure wheel travel,axle articulation with and 
> without the swaybars to see just how much they tie up the suspension, and 
> if it would be worth it to remove them?
> Barnett.

Actually The RR sway bars were claimed, when introduced, not to reduce
articulation, and this is probably more or less true. What IS reduced is
ground pressure at a drooping wheel (still on the ground) so that 
available traction is correspondingly diminished for any given degree of 
articulation above zero. That's why the traction control was brought in 
soon afterwards to compensate, and probably more than compensate for this 
situation.

Also I'm not sure I'd advocate throwing away the sway bars on the models 
that had them, since the bushings and rear spring rates were changed too 
as part of the compromise. You'd probably find if you took away one 
element (the sway bars) on-pavement handling could be scary. As per the 
other messages on this thread, the legality or insurance situation could 
be questionable too?? In other words do it at your own risk -- which I 
guess applies to other 4X4 suspension modifications too.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 20:04:40 -0500
Subject: Week end off-road school in U.K. 

There is a very good chance I can spend the week-end of 10-11
February in the U.K. or Belgium. I would love to go to an off-road
school that week-end. My preference is driving Discos in snow. Any
suggestion or advice?

Thanks

--
Gerald
Massachusetts, U.S.
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 17:09:20 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: re:Disco "frozen" in place

On Mon, 22 Jan 1996, barnett childress wrote:
(snip)
> In all that rain we had everything under your truck was frozen and 
> your tires were frozen to the ground. .... After looking at the ground 
> there were 4 good size depressions where my tyres had been and all 
> had perfect frozen tread marks.

Back in the days that I was driving a '72 Scout and my only "survival" 
equipment was a case of beer and "recovery" equipment a bottle of 
aspirin, the Scout got stuck when the front tires broke through some ice 
at the edge of an unseen drainage ditch as I was motoring across a 
snow-covered picnic area in a park in upstate New York. I couldn't move 
forward or back. The park was totally abandoned (probably *closed* for 
the winter). I looked for material to put under the spinning wheels, but 
the snow was fairly deep, and the park pretty well groomed....no luck.
I opened the survival case and slept in the Scout.
In the morning, I was able to slowly back out in 4WD Low: My tires had 
frozen in, and the Scout climbed up the ice-tread "stairs" that the 
snow/slush/water had frozen into.
Best wishes,
David

------------------------------

From: Simon Barclay <sbar@jna.com.au>
Subject: Synthetic Oils
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 96 12:15:00 EST

On the subject of synthetic oils has anyone had any experience with a 
product called PRO-MA?  I'd never heard of it before but I guy I work with 
swears by it??

Any comments??

Simon Barclay
Sydney Australia

------------------------------

Date: 22 Jan 96 17:57:52 EST
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Copy of: Eyebrows 

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	William L. Leacock, 75473,3572
TO:	Lrod, Internet:lro@land-rover.team.net
DATE:	1/21/96 4:01 PM

RE:	Copy of: Eyebrows 

 Tim Harrincar aasks about eyebrows for  leaf sprung land rovers,
 They are available from various sources in the UK, they look crap, specially
made for series vehicles. the wings can also be easily cut out to fit the Land
Rover Defender original equipment.
 The eyebrows are fitted to defenders beacause of the increased track which
results in the tyres protruding from the wing all all the road or trail muck
being thrown down the side of the vehicle 
 On a series vevicle the wheels are normally set well inside the wing ( fender ?
) and the fitting of eyebrows tends to accentuate this effect with in IM ( not
so )HO  making the whole vehicle look very odd.
 If wide wheels are fitted then it may be both legall and practically necessary
to fit eyebrows.

  Regards  Bill Leacock  Limey in exile

------------------------------

From: slade@sisna.com
Subject: Thank God for the OD
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 20:33:52 -0700 (MST)

Well, my transfer lever rattles may have indicated a larger problem looming
deep inside my x-mission.  Now- The Rest of the Story......

I was making my way onto the freeway this afternoon after having a great
day meeting clients and showing my portfolio.  I felt on top of the world.
HA!!

I went to shift into 4th (no OD) and it wouldn't engage.  Tried to go back
into 3rd.  Back to 4th.  Look into my rear-view mirror and notice the
18-wheeler barreling down the freeway and think that I'd better get onto
the shoulder.

I pull over and try to get my 109 (SIII transmission) to go into eigther
3rd or 4th.  Absolutely no way was it going into gear.  I know that I can
limp home in 1st or 2nd and that the OD will help, but I wanted to know if
there was a simple fix that would remedy my problem.

A quick call (yes, even my 109 has a few 'plush-mo-bile' touches) on the
cell phone and I was told by my mechanic that a 'spring' in the synchro for
3rd and 4th gear had broken and that I would have to limp to his shop for
repair.  I see dollar signs spinning in my head ($$$$$$$$$) and
interestingly enough, I'll blame it on owning a LR, I also saw pound signs
spinning as well (LLLLLLLLLL).

So, I get off the freeway and onto the surface roads.  I try to keep it at
about 30, but at times I got it up to 35 (2n'd w/OD) and it seemed as
though there was some kind of governor on the engine.  I have since learned
that I was floating valves.  Good thing I put it into neutral immidiately
when that happened.

Apparently this is a 70 cent part that's going to take the better part of a
day to replace.  What a bummer.  (again the dollars and pounds start
flashing)

I'll be mainly watching and trying to learn about transmissions tomorrow
while it's being repaired.  I'll also be tackling all the 'nit-picky'
things I've been complaining about.

Even though I won't be doing ANY of the transmission work, I'd like to hear
what everyone has to say about this kind of repair.  Perhaps it'll be as
interesting as my last list of complains.

So, for all of those who haven't installed an OD yet, I can offer my
suggestion to DO IT!  It'll definitely come in handy when your synchronizer
spring decides to fail.

Regards,

Michael

-Proud father, husband and Land-Rover owner-

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 19:01:56 -0800
Subject: Re: D90 Towing

To correct a possibly dangerous bit of misinformation:

The on-road braked trailering capacity of the NAS D90 is 3500#! *NOT KG!* This 
is due to the function of the short wheelbase of the D90. Off-road capacity is 
2200#. 

Obviously, the D90 is a stout truck physically able to pull loads much 
heavier. Due to legal and driveability constraints, the truck is rated as 
above.

The same drivetrain is good for 5500# in Disco and Classic Rangey - but longer 
wheelbase. In LWB and newbody Range Rover it is upped to 6500# (numbers are 
for high range). The latter due to the 108" wheelbase.

I'm sure that many owners will pull heavier loads than what is officially 
sanctioned. Just be aware that handling can get very twitchy in a hurry in 
certain situations with a heavy trailer load...

Just got the bad news that Metro West will receive its *FINAL* D90 allocation 
tomorrow... Not much hope that any ragtops will show up there. Maybe an extra 
SW or two...

No new news on future D90s on our shores. We'll post any official notice as 
soon as it (if and when) is cleared... BTW, Metro West will soon be online 
with some pages. So look for the spam to stop in the near future! Again, my 
apologies if my little notices offend anyone on the list...

cheerz

Jim - o.k. the snow melted - let's have another blizzard!

`67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (#457/500)
`95 D90 #1958

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 17:48:25 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Winter cleaning/road salt

On Mon, 22 Jan 1996 PurnellJE@aol.com wrote: (snip)
> And especially behind the rear wheels, straight up inside the rear 
> corner on the rear  quarter panel.  I spray up there and the water 
> never falls completely clean.  

Me too! 2 Quarters, 3 Quarters, a buck: the return water is *STILL* dirty 
after spraying up there. Also, if I reach up with my hand, there's always 
a good-sized pebble or two to pick out.
-David

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 20:55:16 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Re: Kevin Lipsitz

From: howardl@abs.net (Howard D. Leadmon)
Subject: Re: Kevin Lipsitz
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 00:19:35 +0000 (GMT)

-For the past several weeks, one Kevin Lipsitz (KrazyKev@kjl.com) has been 
-"spamming" the LRO digest - and I can only assume others as well - with 
-solicitations for magazine subscriptions.  In each and every situation, -he 
has used fictitious persons/addresses as a return addresses.
 
-His actions are both abhorent and patently illegal, violating at least one 
-federal statute.  Indeed, in today's digest, there were *two* such 
-subscription requests, but from different "people".  As his administrative 
-contact, I am requesting that his Internet access be terminated.  Mr. 
-Lipsitz has clearly demonstrated his greed and complete lack of 
-responsibility.  Please do not allow this illegal activity to continue.

If you are receiving this message, it is because you have written to me
personally regarding Kevin Lipsit.  ABSnet only processes DNS and MX records
for KJL.COM, and is in no way his ISP.  If you are having a problem with
Kevin, I suggest you contact his ISP, since that is where his network 
access is being supplied from.  Kevin has accounts with two NY ISP's, 
one is Kazan Corp., the other is Connect 2, and here is the information:

Kazan Corporation (ESCAPE-DOM)
   16 East 55th Street, Fifth Floor
   New York City, NY 10022

   Domain Name: ESCAPE.COM

   Administrative Contact, Technical Contact, Zone Contact:
      Kazan, Roman  (RK42)  roman@ESCAPE.COM
      212-888-8780

   Record last updated on 07-Mar-95.
   Record created on 22-Feb-94.

   Domain servers in listed order:

   ESCAPE.COM			198.6.71.10
   FREE.ESCAPE.COM		198.6.71.13

=======
Connect 2 Internet Networks, Inc. (NET-CONNECT2INET)
   NOTE-This is a non-portable UUNET CIDR allocation.
   26 Bay Street
   Staten Island, NY 10301
   US

   Netname: CONNECT2INET
   Netnumber: 206.67.191.0

   Coordinator:
      Olsin, John  (JO255)  jolsin@CONNECT2.COM
      (718) 966-6346

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Internet  : howardl@abs.net             |          Howard D. Leadmon
UUCP      : wb3ffv!howardl              |       ABSnet Internet Services
PHONE     : (410)-361-8160              |       200 E. Lexington Street
FAX       : (410)-381-8162              |             Suite-1602
PACKET    : WB3FFV @ WB3FFV.MD.USA.NA   |        Baltimore, MD  21202
WWW       : http://www.abs.net          |

OK, gang...Mr. Leadmon was kind enough to provide this information, and 
quite quickly I might add.  Time to descend on Kazan Corp./Escape.Com and 
Connect2 *EN MASSE*.  Let Mr. Kazan and Mr. Olsin know what we think of Mr. 
Lipsitz's tactics.  
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: ecoethic@rcinet.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 20:40:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Synthetic oils

My message was omitted yesterday from the digest, so I'll try it again.

<---- Begin Forwarded Message ---->
From: ecoethic@rcinet.com
Subject: Re: Synthetic oils

I would like to throw a wet blanket on the effusive comments concerning Amsoil. I, 
like many of you, want what is best for my vehicles in terms of long term 
dependability. Their products are not quite as good as Amsoil sales literature claim. 
I used to be a "dealer" (which means nothing because anybody who buys a sales kit 
can be one) back in the seventies. I assume they still use the Amway-style 
pyramidal sales scheme where people above you in the scheme make money when 
you sell oil. Anyway, I concluded that their sales practices contribute to an 
unnecessarily high price, and their oil is imperceptibly better than Mobil 1 and 
others.

For example, they claim that engine temperature is reduced, particularly in 
air-cooled engines such as motorcycles, etc. I have an air-cooled Onan cast-iron 
generator in my motorhome with a good VDO head-temperature gauge that runs 
steadily at 260 - 300 degrees F, depending on air temperature. I changed from the 
Castrol (best of the conventionals) 10-40 to Amsoil 10-40, and I observed no 
perceptible difference in operating temperature under the same weather and load 
conditions.

Another example is their claim to improved cold-weather viscosity. I conducted a 
pour test of two conventional 10-40 oils with Amsoil and Castrol synthetics at 
-25F by pouring measured amounts down a sheet metal ramp (everything at the 
same temperature). I assumed that if the viscosity of one oil was more fluid than 
another, it would travel down the ramp quicker and farther than the others. Well, I 
had a hard time detecting a meaningful difference between any of the oils, which 
probably says a lot for the improvement in conventional oil additive packages. 
Both of these "tests" were done in the last two years with current products.

So, what do I use? If oil leakage is a problem (how could that be?) I use Castrol 
conventional in the engine and change it often (1,000 - 3,000 miles). In the 
overdrive and diffs (Series III) I use Mobil 1 gear oil purchased at discount auto 
parts stores for a lot less than Amsoil. I would use it in the transfer case and 
transmission if it would stay there longer, but for some reason any brand gear oil 
finds its way past Solihull seals in these items. I should do a pour test with 
different brands of gear oil to see what the actual difference is with these, but it has 
not been particularly cold here.
This would be a good project for our more northern list-members! Anyway, I 
would encourage all of you to separate sales-hype and "feelings" from objective 
reasoning and testing. Amsoil might be good under certain prescribed tests, but it is 
awful expensive, and is it that much better than the other synthetic brands?

Walter Pokines
Tipp City, Ohio, USA

<----  End Forwarded Message  ---->

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 22:32:10 -0500
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Full vs. part time 4WD

A few days ago I made some comments about a rental Nissan Pathfinder vs. my
RR. The Pathfinder is a fine auto, it is probably as dependable as any
Japanese brand, always starts, will never let you down and makes driving as
interesting as brushing your teeth.

BUT, in the weather I had the Pathfinder in, icy slime at street corners
then dryish roads and an Interstate highway trip with wet and dry areas, it
would be nice not to row the transfer lever.  In this weather and on public
roads (the real world), the full time advantage of my RR is welcomed.

BTW, my spare auto (until someone gives me what I think it is worth) is a
ten year old Izusu Trooper which requires stopping completely before
engaging or disengaging 4WD.

Jeff Kessler
1988 Range Rover
Newport New Hampshire

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 00:03:18 -0600 (CST)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Build your own gearbox crane.

I also use a gearbox crane when my shop crane is tied up.  Here is the 
way I do it.  I have a piece of steel thick wall pipe which reaches from 
the inside roof gutters over the passenger and drivers door.  I put the 
pipe up on the ledge and I use a come-a-long to lift the gearbox.  The 
gearbox really isn't that heavy just awkward and this pipe is plenty 
strong enough to do the job.  It is the type of "crane" you can take into 
the boonies and the pipe makes a good wrench extension or jack handle 
etc.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 0:19:59 -0500 (EST)
From: "Stuart H. Moore-Roanoke College" <SMOORE@ACC.ROANOKE.EDU>
Subject: series springs

Hello everyone.  Hope everyone on the east coast in the U.S.
enjoyed the recent blizzard...I know I did.  One quick question for
the all knowledgeable group.  Does anyone out there know of a leaf
spring from another vehicle which will fit a series rover.

     My predicament is a basic lack of funds for spring replacement
and a burning desire to get my rover on the road after months of
restoration.  I, like most of you would prefer to keep my rover
original, but on the other hand british steel does have its
weaknesses.  I also happen to have a friend nearby with a large
salvage yard full of everything but land rovers(I'm trying to
change that!!).

     If any of you have checked into replacement springs and found
that the leafs off of another vehicle will work without
compromising ground clearance or stability I would appreciate any
info.  The thought of having to go through another blizzard without
my rover is terrible.  Thanks in advance!!!!

                                                  Later

                                                  Stuart H. Moore
                                                  Roanoke College
                                                  Salem, Virginia

                                                  '61 Series II 88"
                                                  and other little
                                                  british sports
cars

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 0:35:40 -0500 (EST)
From: "Stuart H. Moore-Roanoke College" <SMOORE@ACC.ROANOKE.EDU>
Subject: replacement springs

Hello everyone!  Hope those of you on the east coast in the U.S.
enjoyed the recent blizzard.

     I have a quick question for the all knowledgeable group. 
Being that the springs on my Series II are beyond hope I need to
replace them before putting her on the road (and of course off the
road).  I have a friend which is willing to let me pick through his
salvage yard at any time and basically take what I need.  Now the
question.

     Does anyone know of any vehicle whose leaf springs are
similiar enough to those of a '61 88" that they could be used?  I
have been restoring her for many months now and funds are running
low.
     Or does anyone know of another good source for leaf springs
for an old rover?  Perhaps this is a far fetched question but
before I was forced to take on another blizzard in a toy%$& 4x4
while my rover is inoperable I thought I would ask.  Thanks in
advance!!!(and there is more where that came from)

                                                  Happy Rovering

                                                  Stuart H. Moore
                                                  Roanoke College
                                                  Salem, Virginia

                                                  '61 Series II 88"
                                                  '59 MGA
                                                  '68 MGB-GT
                                                  '74 MGB
                                                  '74 MG Midget

------------------------------

From: JOEMT14@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 01:52:52 -0500
Subject: New member

Hello Rovers:

I just purchased a new DEFENDER 90 SW and would appreciate any
recommendations you well traveled ROVERS may have in regards to suspension,
braking, or performance. I read an earlier post about OEM shocks and I have
no clue as to if this is something I need or even want.  Obviously,  LAND
ROVER has been doing something right since 1948, but if I can upgrade my
ROVER please inform as to how and with what products.

Joe Wirht
830 East 14th Place 
Los Angeles, Calif.  90021  

------------------------------

From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 02:27:38 -0500
Subject: Re: <lro's in NC

In a message dated 96-01-22 02:41:11 EST, Steve penned:

>I am currently on a trip in Boone NC and was wondering if anyone knows of 
>some LRO's in this area...
>thnx
>steve

Steve.......
I'm not in the Boone area.......but you've got to take a road from somewhere
to get there.   I'm in Monroe  NC.......about 30 miles east of
Charlotte......on US 74.   If you find yourself passing through....(74 runs
the width of the state from Asheville to Wilmington).......gimme a call.
   Drop by for a coffee and a look at one of the nicest Series III's you're
likely to run across.   
Cordially:
Rick Crider
KD4FXA
Monroe NC
<rickcrider@aol.com>
66  Slla  109"     .................and for sale too.........
73  Slll    88"      .............couldn't be bought...........
88  Range  Rover    .......the daily mule.......

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 23:25:45
From: dlague@gnn.com (Dick Lague)
Subject: Re: New member

After my first month of ownership, I put Bilstein gas shocks on my 
RR 1991, and it made a tremendous difference in handling.  If you 
defender has good gas shocks, don't bother, but if they are 
conventional dampers, I can highly recommend a change to gas 
Bilsteins.
Dick Lague
>Date:	Tue, 23 Jan 1996 01:52:52 -0500
>From:	JOEMT14@aol.com
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>I just purchased a new DEFENDER 90 SW and would appreciate any
>recommendations you well traveled ROVERS may have in regards to 
suspension,
>braking, or performance. I read an earlier post about OEM shocks 
and I have
>no clue as to if this is something I need or even want.  
Obviously,  LAND
>ROVER has been doing something right since 1948, but if I can 
upgrade my
>ROVER please inform as to how and with what products.
>Joe Wirht
>830 East 14th Place 
>Los Angeles, Calif.  90021  

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 91 lines 3854 [forwarded 309 whitespace 947]
 Output: lines 3124 [content 2033  forwarded 143 (cut  166) whitespace 868]

	
    Forward
	


	
    
          
	



Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.