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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: azw@aber.ac.uk
Subject: Re: Re[2]: land Rover camping
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 09:53:57 UNDEFINED

|Fits along the sideboxes and over the bulkhead just like the cots. Cost a 
|fraction and is more use outside the lorry too.

|What's a sunlounger?
|Where can I get one?
|Dave"Mr. Inquisitive"

One of those folding bed things for bimbos to crozzle themselves in the sun 
on. Get em from B&Q, Homecare, or any big DIY/Garden place. Cost about 30quid 
for a good one. When you're not using it, fold it up and strap it to the side 
of the hardtop on top of one of the wheelboxs via a bungee.

------------------------------

Date: 17 Jan 1996 02:31:33 U
From: "Bill Wright" <Bill_Wright@cpqm.saic.com>
Subject: [1]The Land Rover Owner Dai

        Reply to:   [1]The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Warmest regards from Costa Rica.  I currently plan to return to the office on
January 29th.  If you absolutely need to contact me while I'm on vacation,
both Lynda Houston and Millie Steele have my itinerary and phone numbers.
I'll take action on your e-mail as soon as I can.
Bill
------------------------------

Date: 1/17/96 2:26 AM
From: Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.co

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	  Contents:
  1 dlanod@iafrica.com Tue Jan 16 02:45   38/1953  Re: trip report and 202 o
  2 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil Tue Jan 16 03:17   86/5495  WWW Mojave
Road Trip & U 
  3 dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au Tue Jan 16 03:28   43/2262  Re: trip report
and 202 o
  4 Bill_Wright@cpqm.saic.com Tue Jan 16 05:20  103/5557  [1]The Land Rover
Owner D
  5 Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk Tue Jan 16 05:41   41/2028  SLROC and ARC Regs..
  6 steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com Tue Jan 16 06:13   65/3195  Mole wrench
  7 A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za Tue Jan 16 07:01   48/1959  What do I put my
tools in
  8 barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com Tue Jan 16 07:44  
53/2492  re:More on Dealers.
  9 CarDoctor@gnn.com  Tue Jan 16 07:47   37/1865  Engine swaps in the US?
 10 barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com Tue Jan 16 07:55  
19/1056  re:Anti-Seize/Advice, and
 11 TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA Tue Jan 16 08:17   35/1905  Thom McCann and Land
Rove
 12 dkenner@emr1.emr.ca Tue Jan 16 09:12   33/1423  Re: New Disco Owner Probl
 13 M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk Tue Jan 16 09:15   26/984   Re: Thom McCann and Land 
 14 rover@pinn.net     Tue Jan 16 09:24   31/1681  Used RR
 15 jib@big.att.com    Tue Jan 16 10:00   68/3443  lucky guy's post included
 16 crash@merl.com     Tue Jan 16 10:34   35/1659 
 17 douglastmain@msn.com Tue Jan 16 11:06   27/1337  Big Sky Rovers
 18 smcinerney@mail.nrgn.com Tue Jan 16 11:10   46/2705  HELP!...Darkness upon
me.
 19 Harincar@mooregs.com Tue Jan 16 11:22  105/4810  Frame Over, week one
 20 cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us Tue Jan 16 11:23   40/2280  Re: Chain mail
& Junk mai
 21 douglastmain@msn.com Tue Jan 16 11:24   34/1464  FW: PCV
 22 wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com Tue Jan 16 11:32   27/1710  Re. Hand
Cranking
 23 wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com Tue Jan 16 11:38   27/1586  Rovers near Ft
Collins, C
 24 jib@big.att.com    Tue Jan 16 12:04   39/1909  parting '90 RR lwb (US on
 25 clapp.carol@mail.viacomcv.hybrid.com Tue Jan 16 12:45   29/1573  Automatic
2-4wd
 26 cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us Tue Jan 16 12:56   54/2876  Re: More on
Dealers.
 27 clapp.carol@mail.viacomcv.hybrid.com Tue Jan 16 13:07   27/1385  Land
Rover Boots
 28 brabyn@skivs.ski.org Tue Jan 16 13:25   53/2135  Re: parting '90 RR lwb (U
 29 benedick@pa.net    Tue Jan 16 13:27   43/2356  re:More on Dealers.
 30 dbobeck@ushmm.org  Tue Jan 16 14:08   23/1275  Re[2]: Hand cranking
 31 breakfield.ernest@smtpgateway.centigram.com Tue Jan 16 14:11   48/3050 
(not quite) Automatic 2-4
 32 dbobeck@ushmm.org  Tue Jan 16 14:19   33/1595  Re[2]: LANDROVER BOOTS
 33 trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU Tue Jan 16 14:21   70/3041  misc.
 34 douglastmain@msn.com Tue Jan 16 14:44   27/1290  Swivel pin balls
 35 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil Tue Jan 16 14:43   44/2724  Re: Big Sky
Rovers
 36 bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil Tue Jan 16 14:58   47/2816  Re: misc.
 37 Hugh_Grierson@trimble.co.nz Tue Jan 16 16:12   37/2213  Re: (not quite)
Automatic
 38 greg@triteal.com   Tue Jan 16 16:13   36/1805  Smiths Gauges
 39 dbobeck@ushmm.org  Tue Jan 16 16:19   22/1222  Re[2]: land Rover camping
 40 brabyn@skivs.ski.org Tue Jan 16 18:00   96/4350  RE: Hi-lift jack in a RR,
 41 dkenner@emr1.emr.ca Tue Jan 16 18:10   37/1690  Re: misc.
 42 brabyn@skivs.ski.org Tue Jan 16 18:13   41/2085  Re: (not quite) Automatic
 43 landrvr@blacdisc.com Tue Jan 16 18:18   44/2256  Re: Are PCV valves needed
 44 PurnellJE@aol.com  Tue Jan 16 18:21   42/2216  Re: More on Dealers.
 45 landrvr@blacdisc.com Tue Jan 16 18:23   71/3393  Re: Hand Cranking
 46 debrown@srp.gov    Tue Jan 16 18:31   65/3435  Responses to threads...
 47 brucet@iimef-emh1.clb.usmc.mil Tue Jan 16 18:39   36/1921  Getting a
Winch!
 

------------------------------

From: azw@aber.ac.uk
Subject: Mole wrench
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 11:30:54 UNDEFINED

A device for ridding teh lawn of pests. The Transatlantically-Challenged call 
em 'Vice Grips'.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 11:43:40 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Split seals,swivels for the use of..

Further to this thread,I've just rung Craddocks.No,they dont stock 'em
(yet).They say that you can,in fact split the orthodox seals with a very
fine saw,cutting *on the angle* not straight.However,when I told him about
Paul's episode,he said there was a bloke they dealt with in Oz,and that he
would get in touch with him to try and find out more,so they could stock
such a thing themselves,if possible.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 13:24:56 -0100
From: heiden@tca.fgg.EUR.NL (kees van der heiden)
Subject: Purchasing a SIIa in the UK

Hello LR fans,

Somehow the Landrover bug has bitten me. I don't know anymore how
it started, but the previous weeks I have been browsing through
old magazines and books from the library, and the bug is sitting
deeper than ever.

Now I've been looking around a little bit here in Holland, but
landrover prices seem to be quite high on the continent. So naturally
I turned my eye to the British Isles (a mere three days of swimming
from my place...). According to the price list in "Practical Classic"
the car of my dreams (SIIa 88") in usable and not rotten condition
would be worth between 1000,- and 1500,- Pound. Because the UK is
also part of the EG, I wouldn't have to pay import tax, and the
only additional costs would be the ferry and the several official
bribes to get a number plate.

My major concern however is the credibility of "Practical Classic"
magazine. Although they name the LR in the pricelist, they never
have a Landrover for sale. So my questions to you are:
- I this quote of 1000,- to 1500,- for a sixties landrover reasonable?
- In what magazines are all the bargains?
- Are there dealers with a nice selection of SIIa and reasonable prices?

Thanks in advance for any information,

Kees van der Heiden.
The Netherlands.

Ps. Everybody thinks Dutchman are a cheap lot. They always look for
the cheapest bargain. How is it possible that the rest of the world
have such a poor idea about us? ;-)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kees van der Heiden       Dijkzigt Hospital       Rotterdam, The Netherlands
                     vanderheiden@tca.fgg.eur.nl

1958 BMW R69, Shiny lurker.
1960 Volvo P210, Being dismantled.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: 16 Jan 1996 21:45:45 -0500
From: "Bill Skidmore" <skidmore@mitre.org>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Barnett;

Haven't done precise measurement, but estimate 8-10 inches along the =
bench (I originally used the same measurement tool that the Gov't uses to =
measure the deficit!).

I'm thinking of coming up with some kinda fabricated rack for the =
highlift/jackall, so that I can mount it across the roll cage's floor =
brace (I didn't fit the seat exactly flush against the brace, but left =
about an inch or two, since I tried to line up the seatback's hole with =
those that were pre-drilled in the rail.

Bill

 ------ From: Owner-LRO@uk.stratus.com, Tue, Jan 16, 1996 ------ 

From: "barnett childress" =
<barnett=3Dchildress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Re(2):Re: Time to purchase Seats

Bill,
I was thinking along the same line except mounting the seat as close to 
the speaker as possible to free up space near the Safari cage support for =

ammo cans, or to mount the Jack All, Etc. Do you really end up with about =

a foot of space left over on the wheel box with inward facing bench =
seats? 
I have tried to measure this, I think the seats are 33" long?
Barnett.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 7:53:02 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Getting a Winch!

Thom,
I put a winch/bumper setup on my 95 Defender 90 last May.

1- Warn vs Superwinch.
The main difference between the winches is the gearing, breaking, and the 
number of parts. Warn uses planetary gears, and a separate brake. 
Superwinch uses a worm and roller gear setup and as such needs no brake 
and has fewer parts. The worm and roller set up has the advantage of being 
oil bathed and stronger. The planetary setup Warn uses is a little quicker 
to spool in the cable but as the load increases the speed decreases so I 
think that point is moot. For occasional use I think BOTH would serve you 
well, but if your planning to use the winch a lot and keep it for many 
years I think the Superwinch is the way to go. Land Rover Camel Trophy 
vehicles switched from Warn to Superwinch because they kept breaking. 
Rovers North switched from Warn to Superwinch on their off-road school 
vehicles because of planetary ring gear breakage.

2- Bumper setups.
If you decide on the Warn you have a choice between the LRNA bumper or the 
ARB bumper. The ARB is stronger, has a built in brush bar, light mounts, 
and is cheaper to boot. If you go with the Superwinch the HD bumper that 
comes with it is the same as used on the Camel Trophy D110's. It is very 
strong and has a better approach angle than the ARB.

3- Cash outlay.
The Warn winch approx $700, the ARB bumper approx $700, total $1,400.
I dont know the price for the LRNA bumper. 
The Superwinch is approx $900 the HD bumper is approx $900, total $1,800.

4- Additional requirements.
Get the accessory kit this is a must! You really need the winch kit to use 
the winch properly. Front springs you can add later. Your original springs 
will handle the extra weight but over time they will fatigue. The front 
end of your D90 will come down around 1.5" after the install. Second 
battery, HD alternator can wait.

5- Installation.
All of these setups are a bolt on operation so they are all fairly easy 
and can be completed in approx 4 to 6 hrs.

The setup I decided to go with was the Superwinch Husky 8 winch and the 
Superwinch HD bumper. I believe it is a better winch. I liked the fact 
that the bumper didnt compromise the approach angle to much and it has 
been proven reliable by Camel Trophy and Rovers North. I mounted the 
solenoids and the remote connector under the drivers seat. This keeps out 
the dirt, mud and salt, and protects the solenoids from water somewhat. 
After the winch/bumper installation I installed the Old Man Emu HD 
suspension. This brought the front back up and the gas shocks and better 
springs gave me more wheel travel, with better handling and ride. I still 
haven't gone to a HD alternator or a dual battery setup, I just keep the 
engine running while the winch is in use.

The winch is a lot O bucks but if you wheel alone a lot like me its a 
godsend and gives you the freedom not to be afraid to try some nasty stuff 
you might otherwise avoid. Ember before you get into the goo look for a 
good winch point!!!!

Good luck
Let us know how you make out

Barnett Childress
95 D90.
Superwinch Husky 8/HD bumper.
OME HD suspension ARB air lockers.
  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 14:21:26 +0100
From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl)
Subject: Re: Split seals,swivels for the use of..

>(yet).They say that you can,in fact split the orthodox seals with a very
>fine saw,cutting *on the angle* not straight.However,when I told him abo=
ut

Mmmm... I wouldn't recommend this. When I bought my 88" a couple of years=
 ago
it had such a seal, in reasonably good condition. It leaked, however, bec=
ause
the opening it fits into in the swivel pin housing wasn't tight enough to
keep the opening in the seal together. This caused the inner diameter of =
the
seal to be slightly too large, which in turn caused a small leak. Also,
because there was a small opening, grit found it's way in under the lip
and eventually caused it to fail.

Terje Krogdahl
1972 88" SIII 2.25 petrol "Lille Bl=E5"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 08:35:13 -0500 (EST)
From: Ross Leidy <ross@secant.com>
Subject: New type of waving

I waved to a woman driving a Disco yesterday.  Her responding signal wasn't
quite what I had expected:  eyes front, left index finger up the nose.
Could have been a new kind of wave.

Arms flailing,

-Ross
__________________________________________
Ross Leidy          Senior Technical Staff
ross@secant.com     Secant Technologies
95 NAS D90 #3032    Beachwood, OH  USA

------------------------------

From: asd1@ukc.ac.uk
Subject: Re:swivel seals & help
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 13:41:27 gmt

	Why oh Why does anyone want to cut oil seals?  The time it takes
to change a swivel seal just does not warrent the abuse of the seal ?

	Question would you also not bother welding the top side of the chassis
when you fit a new rear crossmenber just because you cant be bothered to take
the rear body off ????

	I've got a 109 and can't justify either.

	Now that I've upset you lot, hows about some advice.

	My 109 obviously has 750's on, but has a hydralic whinch on the
rear pto.
	
	1. The whinch has landrover MKII on cast in to the drum casing and
the pto is made by DOWTY.  Anyone know the type of fluid to put in it (
I've guessed so far ), where I can get a gasketset for it, or any other
information.

	2. Having no room for an overdrive how can I save fuel ?

		It was suggested that I either get a high ratio transfer
box or fit Rangerover diffs. But as I have a sailsburry rear axel I would
have to swap it for the Range rover axels and subsequently the braking system
front and back.  This would mean altering the casings to take leaf springs
( not a problem ).  Also if I did this would it give be a tighter turning
circle as the axels are wider ?

	any thoughts

			Arron  ( most people call me grim )

------------------------------

Subject: Dealer appreciation
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 08:43:59 -0500
From: Dick Hahn <dreams@nexusprime.org>

-- [ From: Dick Hahn * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

If this is a duplicate, please excuse. my program likes to send replies to
address of sender.

After all of the dealer stories in the digest, I feel it necessary to
support the dealer we used.

Our daughter was going to Oman and decided that the vehicle of choice would
be a "96" Disco.  She wanted it to have "Gulf" specs which would be needed
for resale and wanted the price to be as low as possible.  We checked
directly with the factory and got "NO" help.  They referred the request to a
dealer in London who would obtain the vehicle and transport it to the Port
of embarkation.  Cost... well above comparable U.S. price.

We then contacted the dealer in Muscat, Oman. They provided an excellent
price. Approximately $27,000 including transportation, color, extras and
Gulf specs.  Ordered Disco;  when she arrived in Oman and went to pick it up
, they said that they had had a sale the previous month and they would give
her the reduced price since she had order the vehicle and it came in during
the sale period.  $2000. less... The vehicle was on the showroom floor and
had numerous extras which were not ordered.  They threw these in free.  She
feels that she will be able to sell the Disco in two years for the price
paid.

dick hahn

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 14:12:23 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Time for a tyre change

>Do I have to stick with putting the usual 600x16 tyres on the old
>girl or can I put 205R16s or even 750R16s on instead.

Welcome.
You can do either.The speedo wont be accurate with 7.50 tyres,though.
I've got 205R16 Tracker remoulds on my '70 88" diesel,they are wearing
well,and they eliminate the tendency to "terrain follow" that the old 6.00 16
Xply's had.*And* they are cheap,I paid 35quid each fitted.They are just that
little bit bigger,so give you a slightly increased cruising speed for your
RPM,*slightly* better fuel consumption,and vastly better road holding.
Cheersw
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 14:20:22 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Split seals,swivels for the use of..

the opening it fits into in the swivel pin housing wasn't tight enough to
>keep the opening in the seal together.

Kerge,
I *did* say a *fine* saw cut.By that I dont mean a hacksaw,but a thing
called a piercing saw,which has a very fine blade indeed.If you leave a
big kerf,it *wont* close,in fact I doubt whether even a fine one will.
But with a fine cut,it could be sealed with silicone sealer if the cut
doesnt close up completely.And,of course,the split has to be at the top
so it wont leak.I still think its worth a try.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 09:26:50 -400
From: sstricklin@pace.atl.ga.us (Slade Stricklin)
Subject: How to Spin Out a D90

What is the procedure for safely spinning out 180 degrees on a Defender 90 on
dry pavement without flipping?

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 09:28:50 -400
From: sstricklin@pace.atl.ga.us (Slade Stricklin)
Subject: D90 High-Lift Bumper Adapter

Where can I get a Defender High-Lift Jack Bumper Adapter in the USA?

--

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 09:34:25 -400
From: sstricklin@pace.atl.ga.us (Slade Stricklin)
Subject: Best Airborne Stories in a LR

Let's hear everyone's best story of get air off a jump in a Land Rover with
all four wheels off the ground.  Of course the story of the 80 foot cliff drop
for the Marine Patrol and surviving wins the gold.

--

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 09:37:08 -400
From: sstricklin@pace.atl.ga.us (Slade Stricklin)
Subject: D90 mph govenor

How can I change the 90mph govenor on a NAS D90?

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 15:35:27 +0100
From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl)
Subject: Re: Split seals,swivels for the use of..

>>the opening it fits into in the swivel pin housing wasn't tight enough to
>>keep the opening in the seal together.
>I *did* say a *fine* saw cut.By that I dont mean a hacksaw,but a thing
>called a piercing saw,which has a very fine blade indeed.If you leave a

Ah yes. The problem I described was that when you cut the seal, it 
will tend to open up a bit, thus slightly increasing the diameter. 
This will happen regardless of wether the seal has been cut by 
laser or axe :) The leak I described took place on the sides of 
the seal, between the chrome ball and the rubber. With the cut on 
top, not much leaked there. The problem is with getting a tight fit.
Also, I guess the seal can easily deform when opened up enough to let the
axle pass through.

But, if it works, that's great. I just wanted to point out potential
problems. I've seen worse hacks work...

Happy Rovering,
Terje Krogdahl
1972 88" SIII 2.25 petrol

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 09:47:27 -400
From: sstricklin@pace.atl.ga.us (Slade Stricklin)
Subject: Brush Guard to Roll Bar Offroad Cables

Please post design descriptions of how to make those cables that help lift
branches over your windshield that go from the wraparound brush guard to the
roll bars on a NAS D90 that are temparary and don't scratch paint on the bars.

--

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------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 07:02:40 -0800
Subject: Re: Re. Hand Cranking

On Tue, 16 Jan 1996, William Terry <wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com> wrote:
>I am bit confused about the concern with hand cranking. The starter dog on my 

IIA (and the one pictured in the parts catalog) only grab the starter handle in 
one direction. The other direction is angled to push the handle out. Thus when 
the engine starts going the handl is pushed out and thereby disconnected. Is 
there some sort of kick back people are experiencing? The times I've hand 
cranked my Rover have never exhibited any kick back.

The "kick back" refers to the engine firing slightly before TDC and the engine 
"kicking back". In other words, the engine rotates in the opposite direction, 
quite violently.  This happens most often when the engine is being rotated 
slowly.  The 'one-way' starter dog will not protect you from this and if you are 
pushing down on the crank, the force coming back at you will tend to move your 
arm in all sorts of directions that nature never intended, with an accompanying 
"crack".
Hope this sorts out the confusion.

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 07:02:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Big Sky Rovers

Someone asked about AAA automotive.  Although I've never dealt with them, they 
are a quite well known foreign car wrecker in Texas.  The people I've spoken 
with say their prices are high.

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 10:13:33 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: New type of waving

I waved to a woman driving a Disco yesterday.  Her responding signal wasn't
quite what I had expected:  eyes front, left index finger up the nose.
Could have been a new kind of wave.

Or some secret "signal" to see if you we're a member of the plushmobile elite:-)

Dave "I finally got to say 'plushmobile'" Bobeck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 10:16:22 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Split seals,swivels for the use of..

Ah yes. The problem I described was that when you cut the seal, it 
will tend to open up a bit, thus slightly increasing the diameter. 
This will happen regardless of wether the seal has been cut by 
laser or axe :) The leak I described took place on the sides of 
the seal, between the chrome ball and the rubber. With the cut on 
top, not much leaked there. The problem is with getting a tight fit.
Also, I guess the seal can easily deform when opened up enough to let the
axle pass through.

But, if it works, that's great. I just wanted to point out potential
problems. I've seen worse hacks work...

I've heard that the real trick is getting the spring back on with the proper 
tension and without distorting it. The spring is absolutely necessay for a good 
seal. MTC.
Dave

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 07:46:52 -0800
From: jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us (john hess)
Subject: capstan winchs

Hello to all,

I have obtained a capstan winch from a wrecked '74 diesel pu.  I have all
the parts and have a diagram in a brooklands book to show how things should
go together.  My problem is that I have a 2.6 and not a 4 cyl engine.  From
my initial, while its dark outside, examination of the front of my engine,
I am pessimistic that the parts I have will work.  I think that I need a
special 2.6 mounting bracket to hold the drive mechanism in front of the
crank pulley.

I have looked at the top and bottom of the winch and unlike american
products with names, logos and patent numbers all over, this one says
nothing (except for the same number stamped into the top mounting plate (
something like .9379?).  I would guess it's a fairey but have no real basis
for that guess.  It doesn't have a u-joint on the driveshft, just a
straight shaft from the driven flange intot he winch.

Would any of you Land-Rover experts please give me your $0.02?  When I
originally spoke up for the winch, I was number 2 in line; number 3 in line
also lives in Davis and has a 4 cyl engine.

Thanks for your help.

jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us
from home via modem
Land-
  -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and Mazda owner!

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 10:02:38 GMT -0600
Subject: hand cranking and fuel additives

Mike Loiodice writes:

"throttle as you see fit... Mind that crank if it kicks. I've never"

and

"lights, wipers, etc. You can run the engine without a battery if the
alternator is good. Probably not on a generator though..."

One thing about the LR starter dog is that it is designed with a
beveled dog so that if the engine turns backwards the theory is that
it will push the hand crank outward and disengage it from the dog.
It works, but I still don't rely on it.

There's no way you can start an alternater equiped engine without a 
battery. The alternator needs some current from an outside source 
to get energized, it won't generate until it gets that.
As for running without a battery, my dad (an electrical engineer and 
former Chief in Navy electrical shops) told me that running an alternator 
without a battery connected will burn it out. However this isn't a problem 
with a generator. I've also been told this by electrical shops. I've 
never experimented to verify it though.

Allan Smith asks:
"for something similar in diesel? How useful are all the injector
cleaners, water  dispersants, etc.?"

I've used Racor's diesel additive with good success. A bit of that 
and I never had a problem with fuel waxing even during the coldest 
Vermont winters. Racor also makes an *excellent* filter/water 
seperator. They aren't cheap, about $125 now I expect, but they do a 
fantastic job. They are also available with an alarm to warn you if 
the seperation bowl has too high a water level. Also available for 
gasoline engines (without the alarm).

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 11:10:41 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Best Airborne Stories in a LR

Let's hear everyone's best story of get air off a jump in a Land Rover with
all four wheels off the ground. 

What's the big deal? Mine does this every time I hit a pothole.
Dave

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 16:05:36 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re[2]: Split seals,swivels for the use of..

>I've heard that the real trick is getting the spring back on with the proper
>tension and without distorting it. The spring is absolutely necessay for a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>seal. MTC.
>Dave
Well,I played with a spare one last night.Didnt seem difficult.One end of the
spring is swaged down to screw into the other end LH threaded so to speak.
Just note the no of turns and apply in reverse when assembling.
'Course,could be more difficult when grovelling around underneath:-)
Come to think of it,with the method used on the example I have to join the
ends there isnt much of a possibility of getting it far wrong.
Mind you,it probably isnt old fartproof,so I may just get it wrong.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 10:10:04 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Best Airborne Stories in a LR

> Let's hear everyone's best story of get air off a jump in a Land Rover with
> all four wheels off the ground.  Of course the story of the 80 foot cliff drop
> for the Marine Patrol and surviving wins the gold.

Why? IMHO it's foolish to do it. They aren't designed for doing such 
antics. Actually no stock 4WD is, all the 4WD rags notwithstanding.
Also, doing that in the outback is one of the things that gives off 
pavement vehicles a bad rep.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
Madison,WI, USA
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 10:19:40 -0500
Subject: 4.2 Liter questions

At some point in the near future, I would like to put a 4.2 liter V-8 and
transfer case with viscous-coupling center differential into my 1987 RR.  Is
there anybody out there that has done this?  Any ideas on where to find the
engine and xfer case(reputable and as cheaply as possible)?  Will the 4.2
engine simply drop in or will mounts have to be changed, etc.?
Thanks for all your help/comments in advance.
Cheers!  John Cassidy    Bangor, Maine USA

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 17 Jan 96  9:43:15 EST
Subject: Re: Split seals,saws, for the splitting of:

Re: Saws:

Another type that would be useful for this is a dovetail saw or a Japanese 
Dozuki saw.They both have extremely fine blades and are readily available in 
woodworker's shops.

    aj"Wood hacker too..."r

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 11:23:11 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[3]: Split seals,swivels for the use of..

>I've heard that the real trick is getting the spring back on with the proper
>tension and without distorting it. The spring is absolutely necessay for a
>good
>seal. MTC.
>Dave
Well,I played with a spare one last night.Didnt seem difficult.One end of the
spring is swaged down to screw into the other end LH threaded so to speak.
Just note the no of turns and apply in reverse when assembling.
'Course,could be more difficult when grovelling around underneath:-)
Come to think of it,with the method used on the example I have to join the
ends there isnt much of a possibility of getting it far wrong.
Mind you,it probably isnt old fartproof,so I may just get it wrong.

Sorry.  I came in late. are you using the pre-split ones or the regular one that
you split yourself? IMHO, If the seal is bad then you've got stuff inside, and 
you'll probably end up having to rebuild the swivel anyway. That bottom bearing 
ends up sitting in water and gets rusty. Not as bad as the CV joints on my Honda
though. I spent 2 days on those buggers and still both axles ended up neednig 
replacing. But I'd do the same thing as you if the swivel balls themselves were 
okay. Sort of like putting aplit boot on a CV joint. No point taking the whole 
urn thing apart and then just change the seal. might be fun to check the preload
when you've got the seal off though, if you're into that sort of thing...
Dave"Rambling"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 11:21:19 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Brush Guard to Roll Bar Offroad Cables

On Wed, 17 Jan 1996, Slade Stricklin wrote:

> Please post design descriptions of how to make those cables that help lift
> branches over your windshield that go from the wraparound brush guard to the
> roll bars on a NAS D90 that are temparary and don't scratch paint on the bars.

	Ahhhh, "don't scratch the paint"?  If you need such a cable to get
	branches to clear the windscreen, those same branches are going
	to do a number on the sides of your D90.  If you are worried about
	a few scratches on the black rollbars either stay out of the woods,
	remove the things, or get a can of Tremclad black paint to touch
	them up.  Of course a piece of plastic or rubber may help the
	paint finish where the cable wraps on the roll bar, but I don't
	think this will be your major concern.  Besides, the cables 
	(nice stainless ones of course) will look cool when you practice
	your 180's in the D90!

	The same goes for the highlift.  Just use it.  Don't worry about the
	paint.  It seems to fall off the rear crossmember anyway unassisted.
	Dave Bobeck posted the instructions on how to use the high-lift
	on the front of the vehicle a couple weeks ago.  Very instructive.

	For you 90mph problems, assuming there is a governor on the 
	engine, just find it and cut the weights off.  The fact that you
	are ignoring the ECU that happens to like the speed is inmaterial.
	Remember, a Land Rover is an oversized mechano set.  Your D90
	just has a few more parts than the average Series vehicle.  Don't 
	let this deter you.  A set of vice grips (mole wrenches) and you
	are on your way...

	Enjoy!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 09:23:49 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: airsprings

I recently replaced the shocks in my 87 range rover and gained about 2 in
of body lift. I used Bilsteins, they replaced the Ranchos that replaced
the oem. The ranchos lasted about 8 months! and two of them failed the
first week and were replaced once already! In other words you get what you
pay for, the bilsteins have been great so far. ranchos are warranteed for
life, but shocks should not have to be replaced with every oil change.
anyway if you think your rr is a little low check the shocks, unfortunatly
the best way to do this is to disconnect them.

and remember "the two most dissapointing things in the world are not
getting what you want and GETTING what you want!"

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 09:00:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Best Airborne Stories in a LR

On Wed, 17 Jan 96, "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> wrote:

>Let's hear everyone's best story of get air off a jump in a Land Rover with
>all four wheels off the ground. 

>What's the big deal? Mine does this every time I hit a pothole.
>Dave

What if your wheels stay off the ground?  Does that count?

Eric

------------------------------

From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 21:54:58 -0500
Subject: RE: Hi-lift jack on RR & Disco (was something else)

On 16 Jan 96 at 15:02, John Brabyn wrote:

. . . .
> But the question remains how to USE it 
> without wrecking the bumpers etc. (same applies to the Discovery).

I just order a hi-lift jack. Rovers North said I could use in in the
receiver of my Disco with an adapter. I also ordered a front receiver
for the same purpose (plus the fun of pulling my boat out of the
water nose to nose.) 

--
Gerald
Massachusetts, U.S.
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 09:10:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Split seals,swivels for the use of..

----------------------------- Begin Original Text -----------------------

>(yet).They say that you can,in fact split the orthodox seals with a very
>fine saw,cutting *on the angle* not straight.However,when I told him
 about

Mmmm... I wouldn't recommend this. When I bought my 88" 
a couple of years ago it had such a seal, in reasonably good condition. 
It leaked, however, because the opening it fits into in the swivel pin 
housing wasn't tight enough to keep the opening in the seal together.
 This caused the inner diameter of the seal to be slightly too large, 
which in turn caused a small leak. Also, because there was a small opening, 
grit found it's way in under the lip and eventually caused it to fail.
----------------------------- End Original Text -----------------------------

It is possible to split a standard seal and get it to work properly.

step 1
remove the spring from the inner side of the seal  The spring is joined to
itself by a tapered end twisted into the the other end.  Undo this so you
have a straight length of spring.

step 2
Carefully cut the seal with a fine blade hacksaw.  clean up any spurs in the
metal part of the seal so that the ends are smooth at the outer surface of
the joint.

step 3 
remove the old seal & clean up the surfaces.

step 4 
slip the new cut seal over the smallest part of the swivil ball.  Reconnect
the spring around the ball and reinsert it into the back of the seal.

step 5
Using a good grade of RTV, reseal the cut being careful not to leave a build
up at the feathered inner seal edge or on the outer surface that will contact
the retainer plate.

step 6
Put the seal with dried RTV in place with the cut at the top of the ball.
 Proceed from here by carefully following the steps in the factory workshop
manual.

If the ball is in good condition and the seal retainer is tightened
correctly, the seal will not leak and grit will not enter through the cut.
 The trick to getting a seal not to leak is in the tightening of the
retaining plate.

TeriAnn
"Celebrating my 10th year connected to the Usenet/Internet"

------------------------------

From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 21:54:59 -0500
Subject: Installing front receiver in Disco

I've ordered a front receiver for my Disco. I plan on installing it 
this weekend. A while ago someone said one person could do it, but it 
was much easier with two. Any tips or tricks?

Went to the grocery store last night and saw a Disco in the parking
lot. As I was leaving another pulled in and parked two spaces away
from he first one. I'll park over there next time. Also concluded
someone nearby owns a Series II or Series III (I don't know how to
tell differences from back.) Still waving at all LR's unless my 
daughter is in car with friends of hers.

--
Gerald
Massachusetts, U.S.
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Subject: Fwd: Re: FW: PCV
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 12:21:59 -0500
From: Ron Franklin <oldhaven@biddeford.com>

-- [ From: Ron Franklin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

------- FORWARD, Original message follows -------

D

> ----------
> From:   Douglas Main, jr
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> I wrote the answers to chris' questions on a series III that led to the 
> discussion of PCV valves.  On the ser I, II and early IIA's they did not
use 
> PCV valves.  Intead they used a breater style oil fill cap that looked
very 
> similar to the breather on the valve cover.  The PCV valve was brought on 
> later due to pollution regulations.  The fumes that come out of the
breathers 
> are not terribly healthy.  The solution was to send the fumes to the carb
base
>  and burn them in combustion.  So thats why your car does not have a pcv
valve
>  and will never need one.
> later due to pollution regulations.  The fumes that come out of the
-------- REPLY, End of original message --------
A word of caution from hard experience.  The PO of my 65 IIa had replaced
the engine at some point shortly before I bought it.  He was the original
owner and
was well along in years.  He had several LR's and had taken good care of
them until the last years when he became increasingly confused by life, and
ended up in
a care facility.  The vehicle was well kept mechanically, though it seems to
have been upside down several times and to have been intimate with every
tree in the Maine woods. 
The frame is in excellent shape due to the inches thick coat of oil/dirt
mixture from the twice yearly application of motor oil.  (Oh dear, I'm
wandering, maybe confusion goes with
the truck).  
Anyway, when replacing the engine he had not set up the PCV system that goes
with the later sealed oil filler cap, but had soldered up the vent tube, and
installed a 1 venturi
Weber, blocking off the emissions here also.   Simplified everything it
seemed but...   I guess he didn't notice or care that his oil consumption
was terrible, nor did I for the first months I 
owned it since it was old and tended to be terribly oily underneath anyway. 
It was only when I started using it on the road that I realized something
was wrong, as the back door and, I presume, everyone behind me got the same
anti-rust treatment as the frame.  The problem was solved by a new rear main
seal and a switch to the old style filler neck and cap with breather,
(They are a matched set), which allowed the pressure in the lower end of the
engine to vent.  The moral being to be careful about mixing these items
indiscriminately.   
--
Ron Franklin
Bowdoin, Maine, USA
------- FORWARD, End of original message -------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 12:46:55 +0000
From: RMILLER@Middlebury.edu (Raoul Miller)
Subject: Big Sky Rovers

I had contact with Big Sky last summer and talked seriously about buying a
110 rolling chassis until I saw the state of what he was selling and for
much - he wanted over $20,000 for a rolled and substantially wrecked
vehicle and, I think, $6-7000 for a chassis which had been tweaked and then
restraightened.  The guy was nice on the phone but his prices were
extremely high and something seemed a little wrong with his pitch.  Had a
number of conversations with Dixon Kenner about this (BTW, Dixon, weren't
you going to send me an OVLR membership form?) and his feeling, which I am
inclined to share, was to be very skeptical.  Grapevine says that Mr. Big
Sky had sold junk to a couple of people but that is only secondhand.  If I
were to be within a days drive of Northern Montana I would swing by and see
what he has but for the moment I decided to pass.  For parts he might be a
little more reasonable.  I would like to know what else you hear because I
still intend, by hook or by crook, to have a 110 in the US before the end
of the century (and I don't have $40K to spend!)
        Cheers,  Raoul

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 12:54:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Best Airborne Stories in a LR

On Wed, 17 Jan 1996 ericz@cloud9.net wrote:

> What if your wheels stay off the ground?  Does that count?

	Ohhhh!  You have the super rare Air-Rover conversion kit made
	my Supermarine & Messerschmidt?  Cool!

	Always was intrigued with the pusher-puller propellors mounted
	on the front and back...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 13:04:39 +0000
From: RMILLER@Middlebury.edu (Raoul Miller)
Subject: Free-wheeling hubs

This is about a japanese vehicle , but before you all recoil in horror -
please humour me and educate me so that when I finally become an LR owner I
will be more educated person.  There has been a discussion recently about
shift on the fly etc.  My Toyota (shudder! screams of horror from loyal
rover owners) has freewheeling hubs  - same as my sister's 11A and in these
snowy times I have been driving with the hubs locked so I can select 2 or 4
wheel drive from the xfer case without stopping, getting out, etc.  I know
that my gas milage suffers because now the front diff, axles etc. are
engaged and add resistance, BUT am I causing potential damage by doing
this?  Many people I talk to around here do this but that doesn't mean it
is a good or safe idea!  Extra spanner is thrown into the works by the fact
that I have a back injury and have a great deal of trouble bending down to
lock and unlock the hubs regulalrly.  What's the verdict from the learned
minds of the LandRover community?
        BTW, at the risk of committing heresy, I would venture that the
early Toyota 4 wheel drive trucks and 4-runners are fairly close to the
Landrover ideal in that they are mechanically simple, long lasting, user
serviceable and reasonably able off road.  If only they had non-corrodable
bodywork!
        Thanks, folks
        Raoul Miller

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 13:10:20 -0500
Subject: Re: D90 mph govenor

In a message dated 96-01-17 09:55:34 EST, you write:

>How can I change the 90mph govenor on a NAS D90?

Download the code in the ECU, "un" compile it, re-program the fuel cut
portion of the fuel calibration code, re-compile the  data, get a PROM to
replace teh burned in chip in the ECU, burn the PROM with your new compiled
code, and re install the ECU in the car.  Simple.  About an hours work.  

------------------------------

From: Yrjo.Makinen@picker.fi
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 20:11:47 +0300
Subject: Range Rover Conversions

Hello Everybody,

I've owned my '79 Range Rover for several years now. Being a bit of an 
autophile, I was (still am) fascinated with it's design, especially 
the suspension system and the permanent 4WD. I use it mainly as a 
daily driver in Helsinki (It's only car I own). I've been quite happy 
with it. Even if I don't do much off-roading,  Finnish winter offers 
plenty of opportunities to drive on really slippery roads to be able 
to appreciate it's surefootness in such conditions.

Only unexpected  fault so far has been a burned HT-lead  from coil to 
distributor. By the time Rangie ceased to run, the lead was in two 
pieces. Well, at least it wasn't too difficult to diagnose :-).

One design feature I couldn't live with, though, was the original 
4-speed manual transmission and transfer case (both in same casing, a 
derivative of this lives on as LT-95?). I've never been a great fan of 
manual trannies anyway and this one was really MANUAL and leaky too. 
The whining at anything above 80 kph was a real conversation stopper. 

So, instead of trying  to "repair" the 4-speed, I swapped a 
ZF-automatic & LT230 transfer case from a wrecked '87. The swap is 
relatively straightforward (except for some fiddly bits like shifter 
and handbrake lever) and IMHO well worth the trouble. Admittedly there 
still is a "whine" from the LT230, but it's really only a gentle 
whisper compared to the insistent scream (for more oil?) of the 
4-speed.

Currently I'am considering two more upgrades. One is replacing 
carburators with some aftermarket fuel injection/ignition system. And 
the other is air suspension system. I would really appreciate to hear 
if anybody has had any experience with these conversions.

Yrjo J. Makinen

------------------------------

From: usssbkpy@ibmmail.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 13:38:34 EST

---- Mail Item Text Follows
Date: 17 January 96, 13:25:45 EST
From: Paul M. Brodie <usssbkpy@ibmmail.com>
Subject:
Subject: D90 Transmision problem

Slade Stricklin <sstricklin@pace.atl.ga.us> wrote:

>I have a 1994 NAS D90 with the newer transmision with the reverse in the
>back right position.  When I accelerate from a stop to go as fast as
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>as my dealer is they try to convince me that I'm not depressing the
>clutch completely which is not true.  Can someone please help me?!?!

Andrew A. Dallas <adallas@systemsoft.com> wrote:

>I have a similar problem shifting from second to third under heavy
>acceleration. I don't believe this is a problem with the transmission. I
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>this at home) and then try to put the tranny in any gear, you'll at least
>notice a little vibration in the stick.

I have had the same problem with my 94 D90, as my prior vehicle was an old BMW
with a short and quick throw. Barnett Childress (also on the list) had the same
problem with his 95 D90. We both solved the problem in typical Land Rover owner
fashion - namely, by adapting ourselves to the vehicle, and not spending any
money !

The problem is most likely caused by the way you are shifting. The tranny on
the D90 is slow and heavy. When you shift between gears, move the gearshift
lever almost as a two step operation, with a slight pause when you hit neutral-
not a true "double clutch", as you don't release the clutch pedal. Barnett and
I have both found that this solves the problem - good luck !!

Regards,
Paul Brodie
Brookline, MA
94 D90
93 RR County

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 13:43:37 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Big Sky Rovers

On Wed, 17 Jan 1996, Raoul Miller wrote:

> number of conversations with Dixon Kenner about this (BTW, Dixon, weren't
> you going to send me an OVLR membership form?) and his feeling, which I am
> inclined to share, was to be very skeptical. 

	I did, a while ago (membership form that is & newsletter).  I'll
	send another.  Put this is the same catagory whereby Mike Rooth
	in England can get one in 3 days sometimes, while it has taken
	a month for it to hit parts of Maine...  Communist Post does it
	again...

> little more reasonable.  I would like to know what else you hear because I
> still intend, by hook or by crook, to have a 110 in the US before the end
> of the century (and I don't have $40K to spend!)

	You can always send a 109sw in a box to the UK for restoration and
	have it come back looking much like a 110... :-)  Just make sure that
	you can show US Customs that it left.  What it come back as is
	a different question, but it is no different than sourcing the
	parts and putting it together yourself.  Now, those 88"s that
	look a lot like a 101 may be pushing it a bit...  :-)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 18:44:10 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: Alternative to a HI-Lift

Looking through LRO, found an ad, for the easylift airbag jack. Seems better 
than welding onto the Discovery or RR front ends. 

Cost approx. $130. 

Thanks to Glen Rees for a reminder on the bag 

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 14:38:25 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Undeliverable message

Subject: Re[2]: Brush Guard to Roll Bar Offroad Cables

 Dave Bobeck posted the instructions on how to use the high-lift
 on the front of the vehicle a couple weeks ago.  Very instructive.

The voice of experience...

 For you 90mph problems, assuming there is a governor on the 
 engine, just find it and cut the weights off.

Lets see here, this guy's going over 90 mph, doing 180's and catching air. I 
don't think he'll be able to use the cables, since the roof will be gone by the 
time he's through. Just get a good pair of goggles.

Dave "treading ever so lightly" Bobeck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 14:37:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: D90 mph govenor

On Wed, 17 Jan 1996 PurnellJE@aol.com wrote:

> Download the code in the ECU, "un" compile it, re-program the fuel cut
> portion of the fuel calibration code, re-compile the  data, get a PROM to
> replace teh burned in chip in the ECU, burn the PROM with your new compiled
> code, and re install the ECU in the car.  Simple.  About an hours work.  
>.

	TR-8 Car club of America has basically done this to the ECU for the
	3.5l V8.  Lucas refused to co-operate with people with dead/dying
	ECU's, wouldn't supply specs or parts so they took one apart,
	analysed what was there and can now rebuild them.  For the D90
	is should be childrens play.  Download the code, look for a 90
	in the code representing maximum speed and (since the code should
	be in hex) change the value to FF... :-)  All four tires should
	really smoke then!

	Rgds,

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 15:06:05 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: Best Airborne Stories in a LR

To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

On Wed, 17 Jan 96, "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org> wrote:

>Let's hear everyone's best story of get air off a jump in a Land Rover with
>all four wheels off the ground. 
>What's the big deal? Mine does this every time I hit a pothole.
>Dave
What if your wheels stay off the ground?  Does that count?

Eric

If we're going by elapsed time with wheels airborne than you probably win. If 
you're going for "personal best", try some of those 180's

Dave 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 15:07:54 -0500
Subject: Re: D90 mph govenor
From: "Andrew A. Dallas" <adallas@systemsoft.com>

>On Wed, 17 Jan 1996 PurnellJE@aol.com wrote:
>> Download the code in the ECU, "un" compile it, re-program the fuel cut
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
>	really smoke then!
>	Rgds,

If that makes my D90 go 255 Miles Per Hour, I'll be very impressed and 
probably as flat as a pancake. ;-}
-AD

*************************************************
            Andrew A. Dallas
            Full Spectrum Software
            360 Market St.
            Suite 18
            Brighton, MA 02135, USA
            (617) 782-9829
            on-site office: (508) 647-2948
            adallas@tiac.net
            http://www.tiac.net/users/adallas/
*************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 15:18:29 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: Free-wheeling hubs

  My Toyota (shudder! screams of horror from loyal
rover owners) has freewheeling hubs  - same as my sister's 11A and in these
snowy times I have been driving with the hubs locked 
So am I.
 am I causing potential damage by doing
this?  
Only if things haven't been looked after. Make sure diff' is full, UJ's and 
sliding joints properly lubed. My front UJ's are pretty bad now since I was bad 
and didn't grease 'em. 

at's the verdict from the learned
minds of the LandRover community?
He must be talking to me :-)

        BTW, at the risk of committing heresy, I would venture that the
early Toyota 4 wheel drive trucks and 4-runners are fairly close to the
Landrover ideal in that they are mechanically simple, long lasting, user
serviceable and reasonably able off road.  If only they had non-corrodable
bodywork!
Never drove one, but I heard they're ok... they do look sort of like big 
mechanical bugs though... 

Pulled a newish 4-runner out of a wee bit of snow the other day. Definitely a 
case of driver error, as well as unpreparedness. (No shovel!) the poor lad was 
trying to dig 'imself out with a realtor's sign.

        Thanks, folks
         Raoul Miller

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 17 Jan 96 14:18:56 EST
Subject: Re: Free-wheeling hubs

>My Toyota (shudder! screams of horror from loyal
>rover owners) has freewheeling hubs  - same as my sister's 11A and in these
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>engaged and add resistance, BUT am I causing potential damage by doing
>this? 

Rovers were originally built without freewheel hubs, and to this day are still 
so in the Defender line, I believe.

You're causing extra wear, but I can't see it mattering in the long run all 
that much. It's not unlike being in the rough all the time - you just get more 
drag and less gas mileage pushing all that iron when you don't need to.

Re: Back problem:

I used to work with my brother making mobility-assistance devices for folks who 
needed them (he was a social work type for the state of Rhode Island). In doing 
this with him, I had to deal with a lot of folk who had problems similar to 
yours with your being able to reach the hub knobs. 

In these instances, I often ended ub building what I called "reach sticks". 
Imagine a piece of electrical conduit or aluminum tubing with a bicycle grip on 
one end and a notched piece of metal or hard wood on the other. The notch fits 
over the crossbar in the hub knob, allowing you to reset your hubs without 
bending over, with a simple twist of the wrist.

They're easy to make. If you want more details let me know, or take a shot at 
one yourself.

     Just trying to help, Alan

 

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 17 Jan 96 14:09:51 EST
Subject: Re: Re(2): How to Spin Out a D90

>How about spinning out going in reverse?!?!
>How about tying a cable to the corner of my brush bar and driving away from
>the object where the other end is afixed like in the cartoons?!?!

Obviously, you haven't bought the ToonMod for the D-90. This replaces all of 
the external bodywork with flexible silicon rubber duplicates so that these 
types of actions can be performed without damage to passerby, allowing you to 
look as "cool" {ahem} as you wish without damaging others.

What happens to you, of course, is your problem.....

Call Lanny at Rovers north on this on, and he's sure to hav it in stock. They 
don't get much call for it....most drivers know better.

     ajr

--

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
         Sent via ExpressNet/SMTP(tm), Internet Gateway of the Gods!
               ExpressNet/SMTP (c)1994-95 Delphic Software, Inc.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 15:19:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Ross Leidy <ross@secant.com>
Subject: Re: D90 mph govenor

 >> Download the code in the ECU, "un" compile it, re-program the fuel cut
 >> portion of the fuel calibration code, re-compile the  data, get a PROM to
 >> replace teh burned in chip in the ECU, burn the PROM with your new compiled
 >> code, and re install the ECU in the car.  Simple.  About an hours work.  
[snip]
 >	analysed what was there and can now rebuild them.  For the D90
 >	is should be childrens play.  Download the code, look for a 90
 >	in the code representing maximum speed and (since the code should
 >	be in hex) change the value to FF... :-)  All four tires should
 >	really smoke then!
 >
 >	Rgds,
 >

If you're going to all that trouble, why not look for the 182 representing
the horsepower and crank it up too.  For that matter, if you find a 90 that
is NOT the maximum speed byte, it's probably the wheelbase measurement.  Try
setting it to 110. ;-)

Comrade in bit-twiddling,

-Ross
__________________________________________
Ross Leidy          Senior Technical Staff
ross@secant.com     Secant Technologies
95 NAS D90 #3032    Beachwood, OH  USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 11:19:49 -0900
From: abalser@merlin.salrm.alaska.edu (Andrew Balser)
Subject: vehicles in Zimbabwe?

Hello All,

	It turns out that I will likely be spending a couple of months
in Zimbabwe this summer (long story), primarily staying in Harare.  I am 
wondering if it would be at all feasible to think of buying an old beater 
rover or similar truckish unit and reselling upon departure.  I would hope 
for an old IIA or III just because that is what I am used to, but I 
imagine I could figure out a Japanese equivalent without too much trouble
should mechanical failure rear its ugly head.  Are there many vehicles
available?  Are they expensive?  Are parts hard to come by?  Can I register
a car as an American there?  Would I be better off with just a bicycle and
a willingness to hitch?  Any advice is much appreciated.

Andrew Balser

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 15:58:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: D90 mph govenor

On Wed, 17 Jan 1996, Andrew A. Dallas wrote:

> If that makes my D90 go 255 Miles Per Hour, I'll be very impressed and 
> probably as flat as a pancake. ;-}
>.
	No, just your springs.  I forgot to mention that you need the special
	fuel tank that fits in, and fills, the rear box on the D90 so
	that you can attain these speeds.  If you are shy about playing
	with hex code & don't want the special fuel auxilliary fuel tank
	from Rovers North, there's always the JATO approach... :-)

------------------------------

From: Simon Barclay <sbar@jna.com.au>
Subject: Re: D90 mph govenor
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 96 08:00:00 EST

> Download the code in the ECU, "un" compile it, re-program the fuel cut
> portion of the fuel calibration code, re-compile the  data, get a PROM to
> replace teh burned in chip in the ECU, burn the PROM with your new 
compiled
> code, and re install the ECU in the car.  Simple.  About an hours work.
>.

There is a guy in Melbourne (Oz.) Rob Emmins (?? I think) who has done this 
for a number of years.  I recall an article in a local four wheel drive mag 
'Overlander' a number of years ago where he had his laptop in the passangers 
seat and was adjusting engine tuning on the fly!!

He races (or used to) 110's and Disco's in the Wynnes Safari - local version 
of the Paris- Dakaa, and used to sell engine management systems back to 
Solihul - or so the story goes.

Simon Barclay
Sydney Australia

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 16:09:17 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: How to Spin Out a D90 (or a "Series")

To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Obviously, you haven't bought the ToonMod for the D-90. This replaces all of 
the external bodywork with flexible silicon rubber duplicates so that these 
types of actions can be performed without damage to passerby, allowing you to 
look as "cool" {ahem} as you wish without damaging others.

Yes, Alan, they're quite effective. But remember that if one wants merely to 
"spin out", as it were, than one simply must let time work its magic. Complete 
ignorance of vehicle maintenance is the key to doing a good spin out. 
Look in the back of the Rovers North catalog. On the last two pages you will 
find a helpful chart showing exactly which areas to ignore. In fact it even 
tells you how often to ignore them. That's right, let those hub seals leak, let 
those break pads wear out, and hey, if you've got a few rotten boots on your tie
rod ends, well, all the better. Just let the grease run out and let the water 
take over. Oh and don't bother checking any of the fluids either. What a waste 
of time that is. Ok, now that everything's nice and loose and functioning 
"correctly", get rid of that governor (smirk) and floor it. Get it up to about 
95 at least, faster if you can. Get it going good now, pedal to the metal, as 
they say... Now SLAM on the brakes. 

Dave "You might even catch air" Bobeck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 17:21:43 GMT
From: michelbe@praline.net (Michel)
Subject: Re:Judge Dredd City Cabs in Montreal

Hello all, 

I was at the Montreal auto show this weekend and there was two "City Cab" as
seen in Slyvester Stallone's movie Judge Dredd. They were fairly neet. Huge
Fibreglass body over a 101 chassis and mechanics. It is funny to see how the
guys at Rover can recycle different parts from different Rovers. There are
sidelamps all over the vehicle, some Land Rover badges, etc... 

It was amazing to hear the peaople say: Oh yeah...the Land Rovers are the
best 4X4 you can buy....Can't disagree..

There were Disco's and Rangies but no D90.

I also saw the new Jeep (TJ or something) which has coil suspension. I was
not impressed.

I believe that thes "City Cabs" will be in the different Car Shows in North
America. Check it out, it's worth the look.

Cheers..

Michel Bertrand
Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada

1963 109 P-Up Rudolph
1968 109 SW (ex-NADA) in the works
1973 88 (21st century project)

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 14:33:27 -0800
Subject: Sighting

Saw a Grey 109" soft top on I684 southbound today around 2pm.  It was sitting on 
the shoulder, probably disabled.  I stopped, but no driver/owner present.  
Coming back the opposite way around 5pm, it was still there (unattended).  If 
anyone knows the owner of this vehicle please contact him/her.  I live about 5 
minutes away and I'd be happy to help at least get it off the interstate.  I've 
never seen this vehicle before so maybe they're from out of town.  It has NY 
plates.  I just can't stand seeing a LR just waiting to get mashed from behind 
by a semi.

Thanks,
Eric
(914) 234-0145

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 17:54:45 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Used car salesmen

Went to check out a used '90 RR today at a local used car lot.  The guy 
claimed he bought it off a local chap who lost his job following an 
industrial accident.  Right.  

Found a long-term leak in the transmission oil cooler and significant rust - 
in all the *usual* places - but more than would be expected for a Virginia 
vehicle.  Anyway, found the vehicle handbook and a business card from the 
dealer - Keeler Motor Car Co.  The owner, Sandy Keeler was a member of ROAV 
for a few years - and he's in upstate New York.  (That explains the rust.)  
You could see the wind go out of the dealer's sails when I told him that.  
All he could mutter is "...small world...."  The search continues.
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 15:25:07 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Range Rover Conversions

I'd also like to hear if anyone has done an air suspension conversion!

Cheers

JOhn Brabyn

89RR

On Wed, 17 Jan 1996 Yrjo.Makinen@picker.fi wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Hello Everybody,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 39 lines)]
> if anybody has had any experience with these conversions.
> Yrjo J. Makinen

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 15:18:01 -0800
From: Tom Williams <tbwill@interserv.com>
Subject: D90 SW

Just returned from the local dealer, my Discovery is undergoing major surgery 
(complete dash replacement - front edge was curling), and they have traded the 
Green D90 SW they had with another dealer for a White one (#232/500). It was 
still available for sale at 1:00 PM PST if anybody is still hunting for one. The 
dealer is Haron Motors, Fresno, California Telephone 209-237-5533.
 
Tom Williams
Fresno, California
'95 Discovery

------------------------------

From: CORD5@aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 18:33:49 -0500
Subject: Series Dealership

Does anyone know of a dealership in North Texas that sells old Series LR's?  
Cord Campbell
-searching-

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 16:09:55 -0800
Subject: Re: D90 mph govenor

On Wed, 17 Jan 1996, Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> wrote:

 there's always the JATO approach... :-)

Well, someone tried it once...not with a land rover though.
Out west (US) somewhere, a guy took a large American car and strapped a JATO to 
the roof.  He lit it and off he went.....

The cops found what was left of him a few miles down the road, pancaked on a 
rock face.  Judging by the impact and the tire tracks, he was doing over 200mph 
on impact.  There were no brakes left, he had worn them down to metal and then 
some.....

Would be a pity to do that to a D90....

Regards,
Eric

------------------------------

From: "Dean Cording" <CORDINGD@mail.navmat.navy.gov.au>
Date:          Thu, 18 Jan 1996 11:18:23 +1000
Subject:       Re: hand cranking

> From:          "Tom Rowe" <trowe@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
 
> One thing about the LR starter dog is that it is designed with a
> beveled dog so that if the engine turns backwards the theory is that
> it will push the hand crank outward and disengage it from the dog.
> It works, but I still don't rely on it.

Just a small problem with this theory.  If the dog was designed to 
disengage the hand crank when it spun backwards, ie anti-clockwise, 
then it would also disengage when the hand crank was spun forwards, 
ie clockwise.  This would make it very ineffective at starting the 
engine and you'd be in a load of trouble if the engine did start 
because the hand crank wouldn't disengage.

The dog is designed to disengage the hand crank when the engine fires 
and runs forwards - not when it fires prematurely and runs backwards 
(no, the engine doesn't continue to run backwards, it only fires 
once.)

Dean
who hasn't been able to mow his front yard since the start of the 
year because of the SIII parked on it that refuses to start.

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 19:40:03 -0500
Subject: Re: capstan winchs

<< I have obtained a capstan winch from a wrecked '74 diesel pu.  I have all
the parts....  My problem is that I have a 2.6 and not a 4 cyl engine....I am
pessimistic that the parts I have will work.  I think that I need a
special 2.6 mounting bracket to hold the drive mechanism in front of the
crank pulley. >>

It looks like you are out of luck. A '71 LR brochure with an optional parts
list shows capstan winches as available for 4 cyl only, not available for 2.6
6 cyl. Also a SIIA/SIII  optional parts manual dated 9/88 does not mention
2.6 applications. To use a capstan winch you need to replace the crank dog on
the end of the crankshaft with a special dog.

David Cockey
60 SII PU w/ capstan winch
60 SII SW

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 19:06:26 -0700 (MST)
From: Tebbin Salvesen <tsalves@slcpl.slcpl.lib.ut.us>
Subject: Re: Used car salesmen

have you tried out west. Salt Lake City is FULL of Range Rovers. Iown and
87 and there are usually one or two in the paper. As for rust mine has
none where are the "usual" places. I go over (and under) mine every fall
and clean and re-seal it. Leaks? Well mine leaks a little from several
places it sort of reminds me of a good radial engine on a plane-if its not
leaking something is wrong with it!

------------------------------

From: BDaviscar@aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 21:41:58 -0500
Subject: RE: Why won't it work?

On Tue, 16 Jan 1996 BDaviscar@aol.com wrote:
I did but after fitting a delco alt.  I made it - earth. but what is the
difference in the senders?  Electron flow should not make any difference in
how the sender works.

Bloody good question...  I've asked why I can't use a - earth sender
in my 109, but suppliers have said you can't.  If the current one
was working (more or less) there would be a - earth sender in there
anyway to see what happens.  It is just a coil sending a esistance
down the line...

Can anyone  answer this one? I can't And I am a electronic tech!

Bruce  Chicago
67 SIIA 88 Patches

------------------------------

From: ecoethic@rcinet.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 22:15:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Door-top Removal, Never-Seize

Concerning door-top removal on Series vehicles, I can tell you that tapping with a 
rubber or plastic mallet does not always cut it. (Sorry TeriAnn, they use salt out 
east and things get bound up pretty good.)

I was very determined to get the window tops off in preparation for a trip to 
Moab, Utah a couple of years ago. Apparently the PO never had done so, or not in 
the last couple of decades anyway, and the bolts and nuts were severely rusted. 
The nuts were so bad that I was afraid I was going to twist the bolt off before they 
turned, so I used a nut-cracker and chisels to get them off. But then no amount of 
prying or light tapping budged the bolts out of the holes. Moved up to three pound 
ball-peen - nothing. Six pound sledge - nothing. Finally, (it gets hot in Utah) I took 
the entire door off the vehicle, laid it on the grass, had my wife hold a large punch 
with a vise-grip, had two kids sit on the door to slow it down as I whacked it with 
a eight pound sledge repeatedly mixed with lots of WD-40. I finally got them all 
out and I only put two dents in the doors! I rethreaded the bolts to a coarse thread, 
and applied never-seize to the tubes and the bolts.

By the way, when I used to have my trucking company in northern New 
Hampshire, I bought never-seize by the quart (we had a contract to haul road-salt) 
and we used to cut it 50-50 with gear oil to reduce its cost and make it more fluid in 
cold weather. I never reassembled anything or put a wheel next to the hub without 
using it. Ferrous rust is the strongest glue there is. Some bolts would rather snap 
than being forced to turn without it.

Walter Pokines
Tipp City, Ohio, USA
My trucks were Macks, My 4X4 is a Land Rover,
If I had a bike it would be a Harley (The best of everything)

------------------------------

From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 19:50:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Alternative to a HI-Lift

On 17 Jan 96 at 18:44, Mark Talbot wrote:

> Looking through LRO, found an ad, for the easylift airbag jack. Seems better 
> than welding onto the Discovery or RR front ends. 
> Cost approx. $130. 

. . . .

Is this the one that uses the exhaust to inflate it? Anybody have 
one? What was the brand that busted during a demo someone described 
recently?

--
Gerald
Massachusetts, U.S.
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: WAHORN@aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 22:40:26 -0500
Subject: beer

ok ok ok ,
All this talk about beer openers i've got to put my .02 worth in.
Dave you're not alone I am also a Rover owner who dosen't like beer
but when I bought my 67 11a 109 sw 5 years ago (has it really been that long)
it came with a bottle opener firmly attached to the rear above the license
plate
with two different size wood screws.Well I've nearly finished the restoration
and 
am contemplating putting it back on since about a dozen people have asked if
it was original equipment or not  ;)).

Ashley Horn
Jacksonville Florida USA  
near 30 NLAT 81.5 WLON

    

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 19:50:26 -0800
From: Tom Williams <tbwill@interserv.com>
Subject: Noisy Speedo

A previous message stated:
>Thanks  to all of you for this type of info.  I forgot to tell you that when
>I got Patches(67 SIIA 88) It had no speedo cable and I had  to installed a
>new one. the speedo only makes the noise/ does the "jig" when it is cold out.

Before my Discovery, I had an Isuzu Trooper that suffered from the same 
symptons. The solution that worked for me was to lube the cable with some clear 
grease my neighbor uses on his shotguns called "SOS". I believe he refers to it 
as "Slicker than Owl Shit". It took a month or so for the grease to work its way 
along the cable (was too difficult to remove cable) but it took care of the 
noise and the "jig". Good Luck!

Tom Williams
Fresno, California
'95 Discovery

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 23:18:24 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Thom McCann and other miscreants

Back in the 1980's, both Thom McCann as well as McDonald's were using the 
term "Landrover".  McCann's was on boots and McDeath's was on boxes of a 
'kid's meal' featuring that damned clown driving a 'Landrover' across the 
surface of the moon.  I sent both a 'cease and desist' demand least our 
attorneys chew expensively on your backsides-type of letter on club 
letterhead, and curiously, the world's largest corporation immediately 
did...like within a week!  Thom McCann, however, did not.  
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 23:20:35 -0500
From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler@srnet.com>
Subject: Range Rover starting problems

Last week I talked about the problems I had starting my RR in our 0 F
weather here in New Hampshire and traced the problem to fouled plugs.  I was
using Bosch W7DCs as recommended by Rovers North.

I put in new W7DCs and the next night had some hesitation when trying to
start (but it finally did).  So after 2 days in use I removed the W7DCs and
installed the hotter Champion RN12YCs that are listed in the owners and
service manuals.  The Bosch W7DCs looked like they were starting to foul.
Starting is no longer a problem and the temperture gauge reads a little bit
warmer.

The EFI light has been on since I bought the RR.  I disconnected power a few
times but the light would come back after a few miles.

To foul the plugs I must be running a rich mixture and the light is telling
me to have it checked and corrected to fix the mixture.  Does any one have a
thought as to what may be at fault if anything?

Since I qualify for the gas tank replacement recall I will probably have it
checked when I go in for the gas tank.

For you LROs in New England, since I am in New Hampshire, I can go either to
Automaster in Vermont or LR Metro West in Mass for the 4-6 hour gas tank
job.  I have read good thing about LRMW in the digest but Automaster was
very friendly about calling me and letting me road test the D110 when it
first appeared.  Both dealer are about 2 hours away, any thoughts as the
better place to have it done?

Jeff Kessler
88 Range Rover
Newport New Hampshire
603-863-7883

------------------------------

From: Simon Barclay <sbar@jna.com.au>
Subject: Re: Alternative to a HI-Lift
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 96 15:38:00 EST

Gerald asked...

>Is this the one that uses the exhaust to inflate it? Anybody have
>one? What was the brand that busted during a demo someone described
>recently?

There is a brand here in Oz. (might even be made here) called BullBag. 
 These come in a number of sizes and can be driven off single or double tail 
pipes.  They have a heavy duty mat that you are supposed to put between them 
and the vehicle to stop the bag being punctured by sharp bits under the 
vehicle or hot exhaust pipes.

I used to have one years ago, but it was "borrowed".  From memory they work 
very well, just wack it on the exhaust and pump up to the desired level of 
inflation, and 'roll' your vehicle where you want it!

They are quick and easy, but shouldn't be treated as a complete replacement 
for a high lift - it would be hard to use one as a winch!!

Simon Barclay
Sydney Australia

------------------------------

From: Bombdiver@aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 00:37:07 -0500
Subject: Testing one, two, three

This is a test of the technological disadvataged.  

Andy
95 Discovery   Matilda

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 21:48:44 -0800
From: brbonar@ix.netcom.com (Bruce R. Bonar )
Subject: Re: Getting a winch

I have a Warn XD9000i mounted in what is essentially a '95 D-90 LRNA 
bumper.  The winch has performed superbly.  It makes a terrible sound, 
but that seems to be common with that winch.  

I have winched 6 Rovers in succession through deep snow banks on a 
steep hill, after winching myself up, essentially an hour and a half of 
virtually non-stop winching, without overheating or any loss of power.  
All with stock battery and stock alternator. 

I did use "00" welding cable to wire the winch, + and - , directly to 
the battery posts to minimize voltage loss.  I'd recommend spending 
your $$ on heavy cable now and waiting on the alternator and battery.

I've had the stock springs about a year with the winch mounted.  The 
front sits about an inch lower than my wife's new D-90 SW.  I'm 
thinking of installing OME springs soon to bring the front back up, but 
we have done a lot of offroading with the stock springs without 
difficulty.  As long as you don't use a heavy bumper like the ARB, you 
should be able to wait on springs too.

Bruce Bonar
94 D-90  "Spot"
95 D-90 SW  "Stella"

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Spinning D90's and getting airborne
Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 17:26:59 +1030 (CST)

Ok I'm not completely convinced that these questions from Slade arent just a
troll but I've got a 20 min incubation on so what hey...

Ok Guys and Gals, recall from your wild pre 4x4 youth, them good old boy
hand brake turns.  You know the ones, Dukes of Hazzard style
  Trolling along at 50 mph,you  suddenly realize you forget to get the milk,
grab the handbrake lever, quick tug, accompanied by a swing on the steering
wheel. Grab second gear on the way round, loose off on the handbrake, and
bury the right boot.  Ok so it cost more for new tyres than the milk but....

I figure that you could get a pretty close approximation out of any
Landrover, though the end result would likely be different, anyhow I figure
it would go something like this.... (Note this assumes a fully functional
handbrake actually capable of retarding motion and not just creating a large
billowing smoke trail)
Trolling along at 50 mph (OK 45 for the oily wadders (g), Dang I forgot the
milk...  Grab the "Parking brake" lever.  Now here is where there are
differences between vehicles..  In your traditional series type bus, the
shock loading on the rear rover diff results in the crown wheel bolts
shearing off, punching out the bottom of the diff housing and spraying 90wt
all over the road and rear of the vehicle.  In addition the long axle shears
in the diff centre jaming the whole assemble, with tyre connected to the short
axle now effectively locked and 90wt under rear wheels ypou execute a
graceful if somewhat noisy 180 spin. Lock the font hubs push the yellow
button and grind off home, having realised that the landrover is not a Dodge
challenger......

Now for those of us blessed with full time 4x4 I figure it would go something
like this....  Trolling along at 70 mph, Dang no milk...  Grab the Parking
brake lever.  This causes the centre diff to *instantly* attempt to drive
the front axle at 140mph, unable to acheive this the diff spider gears (or
morse chain in a visco rangie) liberate themselves through the bottom, side
and top of the alloy transfer case, spewing oil and pieces of metal all over
the road.  Meanwhile the rear wheels are making full use of that compliant
suspension and have the worst case of axle tramp seen on the face of the
earth, completely destroying the lateral stability of the vehicle.  When the
rear wheels hit the oil slick created by the dissassembly of the transfer
case, whizzo around you go, a 180 spin.   At this point you call
1-800-fine-4wd on your mobile and explain that your new landrover wont go and
could they come and get you.  When pressed explain that you though it would
be like any other bimmer...

Now those who have persevered so far will have noticed one sub group not
mentioned,  Thios is beacuse it is impossible t do a handbrake turn in a 109
equiped with a salisbury diff, no sir wont happen, howver you can enter the
"best airborne landrover story" competition.  

Hears how I see it.

Trolling along at 50 mph (45 for wadders, 55 for that *wonderful* 6cyl).  Doh
Homer where's the milk?  Grab the parking brake,  Ok now we all know that you
cant blow up a salisbury or bust their axles, but that front unijoint you
havent greased in 17 years now thats a whole different ball game.... Said
Uni-joint expires under pressure,  shaft flails about in chassis tunnel, you
know the one full of rust that you've been meaning to repair for 15 years,
and liberates it self.  Eventually it makes contact with the road and digs
in.  The rear of your landrover is now doing a passable impersonation of
Sergey Bubker (sp not even close!), and may even manage a double somersault
with one half twist.
At this point you take out the disposable camera from the tool box and take
photos just to show your friends what you Landrover looked like *before* you
bought it...

Ok enough
cheers

-- 

  Daryl

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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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