[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | "John Y. Liu" [johnliu@e | 16 | Re: Hand cranking |
2 | dlanod@iafrica.com (Dona | 20 | [not specified] |
3 | azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woo | 21 | Re: D90 trip report |
4 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 35 | [not specified] |
5 | Lars Rosenmeier [100670. | 30 | New Discovery model? and comparison test |
6 | terje@tvnorge.no (Terje | 20 | Name That Piston |
7 | "Steve Reddock" [steve_r | 21 | How to open beer bottles. |
8 | wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy | 30 | Names |
9 | landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mi | 33 | Re: Questions? |
10 | michelbe@praline.net (Mi | 39 | Re: Half-shaft snaps and the cold |
11 | Ron Franklin [oldhaven@b | 10 | [not specified] |
12 | Mark.Kraieski@mailport.d | 24 | RE: LR instructional video |
13 | "barnett childress" [bar | 18 | Time to purchase Seats |
14 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 22 | Re: Block heater for 2.25 |
15 | PZavaletta@aol.com | 19 | Mods to Discovery More MPH/HP |
16 | "Douglas Main, jr" [doug | 69 | Chris' Rover Questions Answered |
17 | rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A | 17 | Disco bumpers/air dams |
18 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 51 | What do you keep in YOUR tool kit? |
19 | William Owen [ib011ca@sm | 10 | Auto insurance for Land Rovers -Reply |
20 | Gene Sparks [galleryg@te | 38 | SAVE BIG Money on Land Rover Parts and LR Gear!!!! |
21 | William Owen [ib011ca@sm | 21 | Re: LR Dealer Disaster -Reply |
22 | jeff@purpleshark.com (Je | 30 | New WWWeb pages |
23 | stretch@vol.net | 9 | RE: Range Rover back on the road |
24 | stretch@vol.net | 9 | RE: LRNA 800 Phone Numbers |
25 | M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mik | 20 | Re: What do you keep in YOUR tool kit? |
26 | russ burns [burns@cisco. | 17 | Re: Opening bottles (was: Re: Range Rovers off road) |
27 | "John C. White, III" [jc | 22 | Re: LR instructional video |
28 | "John C. White, III" [jc | 20 | Re: Auto insurance for Land Rovers |
29 | "John C. White, III" [jc | 23 | re:freezing discovery |
30 | Jeff Gauvin [jeffg@miner | 26 | RE: LR Warranty |
31 | slade@teleport.com | 15 | Re: What do you keep in YOUR tool kit? |
32 | Jeff Gauvin [jeffg@miner | 28 | Loose valve cover bolts |
33 | paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul N | 16 | Re: Opening bottles (was: Re: Range Rovers off road) |
34 | Treit Le [Treit_Le@appri | 28 | LR Dealer Disaster |
35 | GElam30092@aol.com | 41 | Vehicle for sale.... |
36 | GElam30092@aol.com | 17 | Rear/worklight |
37 | [Chris_Browne@us014-bost | 23 | Mail order phone numbers |
38 | "Gerald" [g@ix.netcom.co | 26 | Re: LR Dealer Disaster |
39 | Mark.Kraieski@mailport.d | 15 | RE: Locking the Differential on a Disco |
40 | "barnett childress" [bar | 17 | She's back!!! |
41 | ASFCO@aol.com | 15 | Re: Mail order phone numbers |
42 | GElam30092@aol.com | 17 | 88" |
43 | ChrisF6724@aol.com | 18 | RE: High lift mounting |
44 | ChrisF6724@aol.com | 17 | RE: South of the Border |
45 | [Chris_Browne@us014-bost | 25 | Storing Hi lifts in RR/Discos |
46 | matts@cacilj.caciasl.com | 15 | Locking the Differential on a Disco |
47 | "Robert Watson (CNA)" [a | 43 | RE: Loose valve cover bolts |
48 | "Robert Watson (CNA)" [a | 22 | RE: Storing Hi lifts in RR/Discos |
49 | "Mark Talbot" [Land_Rove | 41 | RE: Storing Hi lifts in RR/Discos |
50 | TWakeman/Apple@eworld.co | 57 | Re: What do you keep in YOUR tool kit? |
51 | ericz@cloud9.net | 20 | Re: LR Dealer Disaster -Reply |
52 | "Soren Vels Christensen" | 33 | RE: New Discovery model? and comparison test |
53 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 21 | Bad advertising |
54 | Joseph Broach [calas@utk | 16 | Re: land Rover camping |
55 | jjbpears@ix.netcom.com ( | 34 | 2.25 7:1 to 8:1 petrol rebuild |
56 | rpeng@cadev6.intel.com | 40 | re: Increasing Discovery's Gas Mileage |
57 | stretch@vol.net | 18 | Defender lamp guards |
58 | Hugo Madden [madhugo@bes | 21 | [not specified] |
59 | Mark M Herrick [mherrick | 23 | Towing Series III |
60 | HMEdwards@aol.com | 17 | D90 Station Wagons |
61 | Gene Sparks [galleryg@te | 7 | Wrong Phone number for Euro Parts Ltd. |
62 | ecoethic@rcinet.com | 52 | Re: Snobbery |
63 | "Robert Watson (CNA)" [a | 35 | RE: Snobbery |
64 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 27 | [not specified] |
65 | rthomas@postoffice.ptd.n | 37 | Re: 2.25 7:1 to 8:1 petrol rebuild |
66 | Hugo Madden [madhugo@bes | 15 | [not specified] |
67 | Hugo Madden [madhugo@bes | 16 | [not specified] |
68 | jgoldman@acs.bu.edu | 44 | Fuel pumps and heaters... |
69 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 14 | [not specified] |
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 1996 23:33:27 -0800 From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Hand cranking At 02:45 PM 1/11/96 +0000, you wrote: >started driving, can even be useful now to loosen up an engine if there is a >hole and you have a handle. I was always taught to keep my thumb on the >same side of the handle as the fingers - that avoids hand/wrist injury. I had to hand start my Rover for about 2 weeks while waiting for a starter. I ended up using my foot to kick over the crank. If you think about it you can position your foot so it won't be caught by a spinning hand crank. However, on my Rover the crank always slips out nicely as soon as the engine fires, and never threatens injury. ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Opening beer bottles (was: Re: Range Rovers off road) Date: Fri, 12 Jan 96 07:23:01 GMT From: dlanod@iafrica.com (Donald Abbot) Benjamin responded to my question: > > That's fine for my SIIA but what about my SIII? > I have found that if you don't have the metal headlinig piece that hides > the windscreen/hardtop junction you will see a number of bolts that attach > the hardtop to the windscreen. If you can use any bolt to pry the top off > your beer. I have yet to spill any beer or chip the bottle via this method. I had to remove the part of the headliner you refer to to see what you are talking about. Unfortunately, this part has the rear view mirror and the sun visors attached to it. Either I find another place to open the beers or I will be forced to remove it. Obviously, I agree that having an open beer in the hand is better than looking at what I have just passed or squinting at what I am about to pass. Donald ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Re: D90 trip report Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 08:41:11 UNDEFINED |A buddy of mine once gave me some US miliatary ear plugs that were made of |soft rubber and had a series of 3 baffles that were inserted into the ear |canal. |They were somewhat intimidating to use the first time as I was afraid of |damaging my eardrum, but when they were properly inserted they worked much |better than the soft squishy foam ones others have mentioned. Interestingly, a couple of tests I have seen show little difference with slight favour to the foam, except at low frequencies where the foam plugs, counterintuitively, outperformed everything else by a significant margin. I used to work at the blasting labs at Buxton and the foam plugs were better than the Health and Safety provided solid earphones!!!! I got a lot of stick for using the foam instead of the 'proper' equipment till I told em wher they could shove their phones....... ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Opening beer bottles (was: Re: Range Rovers off road) Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 01:02:13 -0800 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> In message <199601120745.CAA13035@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote: Regarding using the windscreen/hartop bolts to open beers. > I had to remove the part of the headliner you refer to to see what you are > talking about. Unfortunately, this part has the rear view mirror and the sun > visors attached to it. Oh, I forgot about the sun visors. Mine have been off for years. (I'm 6' 4" and I found that I got an extra inch of vision by removing the visors. And if I sit up straight I'm so tall that I can't see 20 feet in front of the Rover. Hence I don't need the visors. As for the rearview mirror. I'm intending to remove the bracket in the center to which the headliner piece is attached and bolt on my own bracket to which I'll attach the rear-view mirror. Right now the mirror is duct taped to the origional bracket. But I have other things higher on my list to do. Such as replace the the right rear spring. (I got half way through a spring swap last weekend and currently my 88" has the spring from a 109" 1ton (minus a leaf) on the left side and a spring from an 88" (minus 2 leaves--it's a long story of a jury rig) on the other. The funny thing is that she's sitting level for the first time in a long time. Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. He'd drive it up the Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..." --Kevin Archie ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 12 Jan 96 03:56:45 EST From: Lars Rosenmeier <100670.3705@compuserve.com> Subject: New Discovery model? and comparison test For your information: I have a photo in front of me of a '96 Land Rover Discovery pick up with hard top. In Denmark we get a lot of 4X4s that are converted to pick models because of our special tax rules. Normally the conversions are made locally, but my Land Rover dealer told me that the Discovery pick up is not a conversion. It seems that there is a demand for an extra commercial model and that the factory therefore has started making Discovery pick ups. With the hard top installed it closely resembles the 3-door Discovery. The hard top looks as if they have cut the roof at the doors and just put it back on. Three models will be available i Denmark: Two TDi models; one with ABS, airbags and alloy wheels and one without, plus one V8 automatic with ABS, airbags and alloy wheels. Prices should start at USD 36300 plus tax (USD 5400) and VAT but with hard top for the base TDi model. The TDi and V8 models with more equipment should be USD 3300 extra. The above information is what i have been told by the dealer, whether it is 100% correct or not i do not know. BTW yesterday a danish newspaper (Berlingske Tidende) compared the off-road abilities of 12 different 4X4s that they had tested. The ranking order was: 1. Land Rover D90 TDi. 2. Land Rover D110 TDi. 3. Land Rover Discovery 3,9i aut. 4. Mercedes Benz 290GD. 5. Daihatsu Rocky 2,8td. 6. Mitsubishi Pajero 2,5td. 7. Nissan Patrol 2,8td. 8. Nissan Patrol 4,2. 9. Toyota Landcruiser 4.2td. 10. Chevrolet S10 V6 aut. 11. Chevrolet Astro Van V6 4,3 aut. 12. Mitsubishi Pajero V6 3.0 aut. Lars ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 09:57:36 +0100 From: terje@tvnorge.no (Terje Krogdahl) Subject: Name That Piston I'm in the middle of rebuilding my five main bearing 2.25 petrol engine. Now the pistons have me confused a bit. They are not flat on the top, nor do they have the V shaped groove of the diesel pistons. Instead they have a shallow (1-2 mm) depression in the middle. It starts with an even edge about 1-2 cm from the edge, and is obviously manufactured this way. The part number ERC8848 is to be seen on the inside, but it does not appear in the SIII parts manual. I suspect the engine may be an early preproduction unit meant for early 110's. Does anyone know what these pistons are? Could they be 7:1 compression pistons? Terje Krogdahl 1972 SIII 88" 2.25 (1983ish) petrol ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 04:22:10 EST From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com> Subject: How to open beer bottles. You don't need metal dashboards, hard top bolts or anything. Simply put the lip of the cap on a hard edge, such as the bumper. The bottle should hang down, just off vertical. Then strike the cap with the heel of your hand. Hey presto! The cap comes off. It is quite hard to do this using the bumper if you are still driving :-) Mind you don't bruise your hand doing this! Steve Reddock Product Evaluation, 26/12 Xyratex Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450 Int.721-4450 REDDOCK at HVTVM Internet: Steve_Reddock@UK.XYRATEX.COM ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 10:34:42 +0001 From: wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy Wassili) Subject: Names Hello roverers, I noticed that among the listmembers there are those who have given their LANDROVER(S) names. There are those who put the finger on the right spot, for instance "Money Pit" is more than true. There are those wich kept me wondering for a while, I just recently "discovered" that Beluga is the name for some caviar. Since I own my Discovery( about 4 months now) I wanted to give the thing a name. This kept me busy for while, but since the last winter period( first snow, then salt, icy rain and more salt) I noticed that the color of the vehicle kept changing from Avalon Blue on sunny days, through green into grayish on cloudy days, than into white on snowy days and even a two-tone Blue,Green,Grayish combined with a crispy white on salty days. So I think that there is only one name that will suit the car and that will be: "The Chameleon". So from now on the car is no longer a stranger passing by :-) LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR ____ | _____/|__|| Roy Wassili,<wassili@amc.uva.nl> | /(-8| \ | Avalon Green '95 Discovery, VG-XH-66 ____|_/[]__|__\___|# "The Chameleon" |] __=| | __ |# [|_/ \|_____|_/ \_|] ( o ) ( o ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 04:06:54 -0500 From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice) Subject: Re: Questions? Chris asks... >1. Reciently, steam/smoke, and oil splatter has been coming out of the oil >filler neck. Is this just a bad cap, or is it something else wrong with the - Offhand, I would suspect the PVC valve or maybe worn rings allowing too much pressure in the crankcase. You might want to do a compression test onm each cylinder. >2. Can the clutch be adjusted? So far, two different answers from two >different mechanics. One said it was hydrolic and could not be adjusted, the Yes and no... :) The clutch pressure plate/release is self adjusting... There is nothing on the slave cylinder end on a SerIII that you can adjust. However, you can adjust the pedal position and the free play on the master cylinder pushrod. Both of those adjustments are located under the wing. >Now I see why the majority of you work on your own cars... Naaaa.... we all just like pain.... Cheers Mike Loiodice 166 W. Fulton St. 1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green Gloversville 1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo NY 12078 (USA) 7 1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue #:-}> ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 07:11:52 GMT From: michelbe@praline.net (Michel) Subject: Re: Half-shaft snaps and the cold Hello all, Another hit for Rudolph, my 109 Pickup. When trying to pull out from my parking space yesterday (it hadn't move for two weeks), I heard a huge bang in the drivetrain and it didn't budge. Oh well, another half-shaft. Stopped the car, got out of it, reached for my tools, and started the axle-changing process. Got out the long one, which was intact, and then the short one is stuck. Can only pull it for about half an inch!! Oh well, I guess I will have to borrow a come-along this weekend to finish the job. Looks like the wheels were stuck in the ice or something. It's been reaally cold down here (-35 at nights) and They just froze over. Darn! I'll know for now. It isn't true that the splines will twist sometime before the half-shaft breaks. I removed both of them two months ago to check them and they were fine. I haven't done much mileage since (500 miles) and used it almost on a daily basis. I guess that the morale of this story is that if you don't want your Landie to break down, you have to use it. Mine couldn't run around because of a major brake-fluid leak (I was telling the Esso kid to fill up the brake fluid reservoir and to check the fuel...). I was actually taking it out to bring it to a friend's place to change the master cylinder..... Will have to wait. For the LRO's down in California, don't park your Rover in fresh concrete, it will do the same :) Michel Bertrand Sherbrooke, Quebec,Canada 1963 109 Ser IIA (Rudolph) 1968 109 Ser IIA Nada-SW (in the works) 1973 88 Ser III (21st century project) ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: computer hazards Date: Fri, 12 Jan 96 08:13:50 -0500 From: Ron Franklin <oldhaven@biddeford.com> -- [ From: Ron Franklin * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] -- >Anyone aware of the real hazards (other than fire) of spray painting around operating computers? Building maintenance just walked in and is spray painting the ceiling tiles.< Gee, I thought this was someone talking about their Range Rover. ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mark.Kraieski@mailport.delta-air.com Date: 12 Jan 96 08:22:06 -0500 Subject: RE: LR instructional video I just received a similar video from LR, only with Discoveries in it. It was filmed mostly during an expedition to the La Porta Maya ruins (or something similar) and contains the basics. I imagine all purchasers of Discos last year got these a month after buying, no? Of course, I don't know how you special order them. Maybe if you buy one of those $400 LR watches they'll give you the video for free? If you really want a copy, make sure you don't just find a recent Disco buyer in your area and have them copy it for you. This would violate copyright laws. :-) Mark ---------- >From: ib011ca@smtpaoc.tsc.state.tn.us >Several years ago I saw an ad for an off road instructional video put out >by LR. It featured a RR. Don't remember much else at all except it had [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >Does anyone know how I can obtain one of these? LRNA (1800fine >4wd) operator says all she can do is give me dealer names and numbers. ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 96 8:41:46 EST From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com> Subject: Time to purchase Seats Hello all, O.K. all you series owners out there, I've got the cash saved, and I'm ready to place an order for some rear seats to put in my 95 D90. I need some opinions/sugestions on inward facing jump seats vs bench seats. Any advice? Thanks in advance, Barnett Childress sturbridge, MA. 95 D90 ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 07:54:12 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Block heater for 2.25 Steve Bradke asks: > anyone have the Zero-start part number which will fit the threaded plug behind the manifold???? I remember there was some discussion Do you have the thread specs? I have the ZeroStart catalog here on my desk. I wasn't aware of one to fit. There is one that will fit the freeze plug though. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research Madison,WI, USA 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: PZavaletta@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 09:31:00 -0500 Subject: Mods to Discovery More MPH/HP Will the person that posted his recent inventive modifications to his Discovery, do so again? It mentioned replacing the stock plugs with Splitfires, and to where they were gapped, adding 1 quart of Duralube, and replacing the air filter with a K&N (be sure and mention what size was used). Also, do you think these mods would apply to the '95 Range Rover Classic (3.9L V8)? All comments would be appreciated. Peter M. Zavaletta '95 Alpine White County Classic (aka 'Winston') ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 96 14:27:43 UT From: "Douglas Main, jr" <douglastmain@msn.com> Subject: Chris' Rover Questions Answered ---------- From: Douglas Main, jr Sent: Thursday, January 11, 1996 4:37 PM Subject: Your Rover Questions Answered Chris, My name is Doug Main. I also own a 73 88 as well as a 66 88. I am one of those who works on his own car. I have been around rovers since conception and have been inside nearly every component in a Land Rover. Here are the answers to your questions: 1) The steam and oil spatter coming from your filler neck leads me to believe that your engine vents are clogged. The vents I am reffering to are the breather cap on the valve cover and the other is the PCV valve (PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation). If either/both of these devices are obbstructed the only place for the internal engine air pressure pressure to go is out the filler neck or (God Forbid) the engine seals. To clean the breather on the valve cover I usually remove it from the valve cover, turn it up side down, plug the tube on the side with my finger, pour some kerosene into the big opening, cover the big opening with my other hand and shake the kerosene inside the breather for a few minutes. After shaking the kerosene around I empty the breather and let it sit, right side up, for about half an hour to drain. Then you can install it. The PCV valve may have been removed from your car some time ago. When they failed, people usually removed them and plugged the little pipe sticking out of the side of the filler neck and plugged the hole at the base of the carb. If this is your situation I highly recommend replacing the missing components. All of the parts are available from Rovers North (802) 879-0032. In the mean time you can run a short piece of hose from the small pipe on the filler neck and let it hang down along side of the oil pan. This allows for two things; First the engine can vent its pressure; second, the dangling hose will vent the fumes under the vehicle rather than in the cab. If you have a PCV valve in place, it could be clogged (most likely with ice becase it is winter). My only suggestion is to remove the parts and bring them in doors, warm them up and clean them thorughly. The standard Land Rover PCV valve can be taken apart by simply removing the wire clip. The parts that come off/out are as follows:1) the steel cap. 2) Rubber diaphragm. 3) Piston 4) Spring. Inspect these parts (especially the rubber diaphragm for holes. If it has holes it has to be replaced. I believe Rovers North stocks the Diaphram) clean them and reassemble. I think you would probably want to know what the steam is all about so here is a breif explanation: I will assume that your engine has no internal coolant leaks(you would see antifreeze in your oil when you change the oil if you had an internal coolant leak). When the temperature begins to drop to the freezing point an interesting thing happens in the "atmosphere" inside your engine. The moisture in the air inside your engine condenses and forms water droplets inside the engine due to the temperature difference between the inside of the engine and the outside air. The effect is amplified the higher the humidity is (like the humidity when it is snowing or raining. Regardless, the water droplets end up in the oil. When the engine is run, the oil and water are forced to mix and form this white/gray foam which is what comes out of your engine's breathing orfices. 2) The answer to your second question is quite simple... your clutch is not adjustable. The adjustment under the fender is only a pedal height adjustment. That adjustment is usally only nessacary when the clutch master cylinder is replaced. If you have any other questions about this email or any other land rover problem, please don't hesitate to drop me a line at: douglastmain@msn.com Good Luck, Doug ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 1996 09:39:37 -0500 From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi) Subject: Disco bumpers/air dams David Brown wrote: The Disco has a 1 piece end cap / bumper. I've seen ONE Disco with it removed (the factory test unit) at the dealer in Phoenix Arizona, and as I recalled, it looked fine. Actually more rugged looking, more truck like. My question: What did this (un)installation do about the side lights mounted in the front corners? I'm not recalling if they are directionals (don't think so) or just running lights. -Bob rvirzi@gte.com Think Globally. === +1(617)466-2881 === Act Locally! ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 12 Jan 96 9:24:31 EST Subject: What do you keep in YOUR tool kit? Here's a topic for discussion - whatthehell, it's Friday, and this might make the basis for a good article. Those with warranties need not apply.....8*) What do you put in YOUR tool kit? Personally, being the ravening paranoid that I am, damn near everything. Tools: (And all of this fits in an ammo can!) 3/8" socket set, inch/metric to 3/4"/19MM, with extensions and sparkplug socket. Combination wrench set, inch/metric to 7/8"/19MM Mole wrench Water pump pliers Needlenose pliers Regular pliers Diagonal cutters Crimp/bolt cutter/wire stripper pliers 3/16", 1/4", 5/16" screwdrivers #1, #2, #3 Phillips screwdivers Digital voltmeter with spare battery Jack and lug wrench Spares: (in the rear storage locker or cab, as befitted by weather resistance) 90-weight oil 10W40 50/50 antifreeze and water Wire Electircal lugs Electrical tape Duct tape Distributor baseplate with points (electronic ignition backup) Form-A-Gasket (new tube) I will be carrying spare hoses and such when I start doing long-distance trips in the old boy, as well as tune-up parts and a spare belt. With this mess, if there's anything that should be repaired on the side of the road goes south, I can do something about it. If it's much worse, I can probably hack it to get home. If worse than that.... it's tow truck time. This is why we have a cell phone....AND a 2-meter transmitter. 8*) Anbody got any interesting additions to enlighten us with? aj"Paranoids R" Us"r ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 08:32:33 -0600 From: William Owen <ib011ca@smtpaoc.tsc.state.tn.us> Subject: Auto insurance for Land Rovers -Reply Just checked on this yesterday for a RR. Its alot more than for my Cherokee of the same year( 88). The RR is about 60% more or $170 per 6mo more than the Cherokee. Agent attributed the increase to repair expense. I think I may check around but my current company's rates have always been good. ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Gene Sparks <galleryg@techline.com> Subject: SAVE BIG Money on Land Rover Parts and LR Gear!!!! Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 07:09:17 -0800 First of all I'd like to thank everyone who wrote me for giving me such = a warm welcome to this group. I think it's unfair the stigma that is = associated with Rover owners. People just assume your a 'yuppie' or = rich. While that may be true in some areas with a limited number of = people, for the most part I think we're all pretty much ordinary. I'm by = no means rich and it took all the resources I could muster to get my = much beloved Disco. Since my disco was purchased for the main purpose of off-road = expeditions for my family and my business, I naturally wanted to outfit = it with many back country goodies (expedition rack, brush bar etc.) but = found that the dealers prices seemed unusually high, so I did my = research. First I found Rovers North. A great company for sure and = savings to boot! But then completely by accident I found a Company = called Euro Parts Ltd. Their prices are significantly less that Rovers = North and up to 2/3rds less than my local dealer!!! How about a Brush = bar for $375! It is an upstart company located in Long Island NY and is run by = Mohammed and his wife. Mohammed is very knowledgeable having worked with = Rovers in North Africa for 10 years. He is so friendly, ingratiating and = eager to provide you with QUALITY service that by the time you're done = with your order you feel almost sad to hang up the phone. All his parts = are Genuine LR and his prices can't be beat. Even the call is FREE = 1-800-932-1822. Also if you like Mohammed can be reached by E-mail at = Com1@ix.netcom.com. So if you need some parts or Gear for your Rover and want to save a = bundle and at the same time be treated like Royalty, I hope you'll think = of Mohammed. Your wallet will thank you. 'Cause after all aren't we all = just working stiffs looking for a bargain? Gene ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 08:53:05 -0600 From: William Owen <ib011ca@smtpaoc.tsc.state.tn.us> Subject: Re: LR Dealer Disaster -Reply I think dealer and salesmen vary, just like owners do. As I've said before, I had a great experiance at the local LR dealer(Cadillac/LR actually) in Nashville. Showed up in an old dirty 2dr Cherokee wearing torn jeans and a t-shirt. A salesman immediately walked out hte door to meet me. I told him I was only looking, probably wanted a used vehicle, and it might be months before I bought anything. He nevertheless took an hour and a half to answer all my questions and give me a fantastic, long test drive of a brand new disco, including a off road segment. His attitude was like he was investing time now for when or if I made a purchase down the road. He didn't even blink when I crawled under a d90 to have a look. Only bad thing was he didn't have much technical knowledge concerning diffs and the like. Best experiance I've had with a dealer, except perhaps Saturn. And don't even get me started on the jeep and toyota sales tactics I've experianced. ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 10:23:26 -0500 From: jeff@purpleshark.com (Jeffrey A. Berg) Subject: New WWWeb pages Just a little shameless self-promotion: I've posted some more photos and text, this time from the 1995 Mid-Atlantic Land Rover Rally, to the RoverWeb. Ben has them up and running now. Check it out at <http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/RoverWeb/Mid-AtlanticII/Middy95.html> My next RoverWeb project will involve audience participation. Watch this space for details. RoverOn! JAB == == Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT jeff@purpleshark.com ================== My garden is full of papayas and mangos. My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos. Taste for the good life, I can see it no other way. --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version) == == ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: stretch@vol.net Date: Fri, 12 Jan 96 22:40:59 PST Subject: RE: Range Rover back on the road wasn't this solved in about 1925? all the tech talk in the world can't convince me this sort of stuff is in any way, normal. I find my Defender to be relatively high quality (a few quirks), but the organization seems rather disinterested and self-righteous. ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: stretch@vol.net Date: Fri, 12 Jan 96 22:28:31 PST Subject: RE: LRNA 800 Phone Numbers Can we complain about the dopes at 800 fine4wd at this #? Actually all I want is a place to get legit info...thanks ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 15:42:24 +0000 From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth) Subject: Re: What do you keep in YOUR tool kit? Alan, With great regret,I have to inform you,that you are seriously under equipped. I saw no mention of baler twine,sledge hammer,chewing gum,chainsaw,machine shop(with generator),crampons,condoms,flares,spare engine,transmission,chassis, sleeping bag,tent,or hot water bottle.However,the most significant omission, and one that shocks me to the core,knowing the calibre of man you are,is this. YOU HAVE NO BEER!What happens if you suffer a hole in the exhaust?Because you have no beer,you cannot consume a can or two,and proceed to repair said item by the simple means of wrapping around it,a beer can. I *plead* with you.For your own safety,do not proceed further than your garden gate,so ill-equipped are you. Yours, Worried Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 07:47:36 -0800 From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com> Subject: Re: Opening bottles (was: Re: Range Rovers off road) It takes real talent to drink one of those 2 gallon wine jugs while fern is falling apart on the trail.... Russ >Corks? They're supposed to have corks?? All my champagne bottles have screw >caps! [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)] >Cheers >Mike Russ Burns cisco/Ford 313-317-0451 ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 09:00:00 -0800 From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com> Subject: Re: LR instructional video There's a video that LRNA sends out when you buy one of their vehicles. I got one for my Discovery. It's called "Discovery Off-Road, Driving La Ruta Maya," and runs about 15 minutes. It has some basic off-orad instruction and some promo. Cheers! John '95 Discovery San Francisco, California At 16:31 11.01.96 -0600, William Owen wrote: >To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net >Several years ago I saw an ad for an off road instructional video put out [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)] > Local dealer says their only videos are promo and not for sale. Anyone >seen this or know where I can find it? >Thanks, William ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 09:00:06 -0800 From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com> Subject: Re: Auto insurance for Land Rovers $280 a month! Wow, that does seem high. I live in San Francisco and have been paying about $1,000 every six months for full coverage on a "new" 1995 Discovery. Cheers! John At 15:00 11.01.96 +0000, Carol Clapp wrote: >To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net >I pay a high rate of auto insurance on my Wrangler, about 3x what my husband [ truncated by lro-digester (was 31 lines)] >country lane. High banks, no where to get off the road. >Thanks for guidance from some of you. I'm in SF Bay Area. >Carol ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 08:59:54 -0800 From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com> Subject: re:freezing discovery Actually I was just giving you a hard time. :-) On the other hand US telephone area codes are probably pretty meaningless to people on this list who aren't in the United States, and, quite frankly, I myself can only recognize ones for the major cities or ones I call. Our snail mail state abbreviations may be obscure overseas as well. Anyway, I do agree that it would be nice if people put their locations on their posts. Cheers! John '95 Discovery San Francisco, California At 10:57 11.01.96 -0600, Tom Rowe wrote: >To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net >John C. White, III writes: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 27 lines)] > Four wheel drive allows you to get > stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com> Subject: RE: LR Warranty Date: Fri, 12 Jan 96 10:05:02 MST barnett childress says: Bob, I asked my dealer, LRMW in Natick, MA. about voiding the warranty on my 95 Defender 90 when if I had Air Lockers installed. The answer I got was the only thing no longer covered would be the differentials the rest of the drivetrain would still be covered by LR. Cheers, Barnett. When I had my dealer install ARB air lockers in my D90 I was told that broken axles would no longer be covered, but that everything else would be. The installation itself was covered by a 1 year warranty. I didn't get any warranty info with the lockers themselves, so...? -- Jeffrey J. Gauvin email: jeff.gauvin@symbios.com Symbios Logic Inc. Voice: 719-573-3563 1635 Aeroplaza Dr. FAX: 719-573-3824 Colorado Springs, CO 80916 ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: slade@teleport.com Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 08:58:02 -0800 Subject: Re: What do you keep in YOUR tool kit? I've kept a beef log and a disposable camera in my car for years, and boy have they both come in handy! Oh, and now I keep several plastic dixie cups in the tool chest as well. They work well for capping up hubs that have been disassembled. :) Later, Michael ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com> Subject: Loose valve cover bolts Date: Fri, 12 Jan 96 10:19:04 MST Leland J Roys says: I did fail to mention, the only problem I had on my Colorado trip was oil leakage from all 4 outside bolts of the valve covers. By the end of the trip it had turned into a pretty good stream of oil. Is it normal for the bolts to loosen on there own like that? The trip was about 2500 miles total (I have 17500 miles on the Def-90 and took it in to Land Rover for the 7500 mile service). Normal? I wouldn't expect it, but uncommon - no! I noticed my valve covers were leaking and had them re-torqued at about 11,250 miles. At the same time I had to have my oil pan gasket replaced and a bad coolant hose clamp replaced. Nothing major has broken yet, but I've been to the dealer enough to be on a first name basis with them. Guess the D90 is a "true Land Rover" -- Jeffrey J. Gauvin email: jeff.gauvin@symbios.com Symbios Logic Inc. Voice: 719-573-3563 1635 Aeroplaza Dr. FAX: 719-573-3824 Colorado Springs, CO 80916 ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Subject: Re: Opening bottles (was: Re: Range Rovers off road) Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 08:23:21 +1100 I asked about open beer bottles on Series Land Rovers, and Mike replied: > On a Real Land Rover (one with a *metal* dashboard) you use the curled lip > at the bottom of the dash to pop off the bottle cap. Alas, I have a Series semi-plushmobile (S III), so cannot use this clever place. Short of a pair or pliers, what is the secret of opening beer bottles on an S III? paul ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Treit Le <Treit_Le@apprise.com> Date: 12 Jan 96 11:32:36 Subject: LR Dealer Disaster >I am absolutley disgusted by the utter lack of respect given us in that >dealership......Is this the image that LRNA wants to present? I went to many dealers in your area (not Pepe though) when shopping for a Land Rover. Initially, I knew nothing about the models and asked a lot of questions. I quickly got sick of the "holier than thou, we sell every vehicle we get, kiss my ass if you want one, fake Britsh accent" attitude. The fact that I look 25 and tend to dress in combat boots, dirty Levis and T-shirts didn't help. They don't want to bargain or nickel and dime and they don't want to waste time talking to someone who might not buy, especially this time of year. The dealer that I finally bought from was the Glen Cove LR Centre. They are supposedly the highest volume LR Centre in the US. They were somewhat willing to deal on vehicles that were in stock. And if you paid cash, you could get great deals on accessories (ie., front bars w/ installation $400). AFTER I bought my RR, I asked for obstacle course rides and test drives in a Defender and a Disco. No problem. Service is great with Volvo 850s as loaners. They rented me a Pathfinder, because I needed a wagon-type vehicle, at a cost to them of $650 when I dropped my RR off for a week for mostly warranty work. Triet Le '95 Classic Going to Whistler Saturday, will soon have first hand report on rental Jeep GC:) ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: GElam30092@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 12:51:17 -0500 Subject: Vehicle for sale.... I found a LR Series II for sale about two blocks from me! Here are the particulars from the owner's wife as she knows them: 1965 88" Land Rover Series II assume that would be a 2.25 petrol Positive ground Parts recently replaced: tires, canvas top, hoses, master cyl replaced, brakes replaced, rubbers seals, shocks, clutch master, oil filter adapter, various belts, seals, etc. Rebuilt carb. Color: red... but faded to orange. Runs fairly well..... everything works The owner has about $2500 recent dollars into it and would like to get enough to purchase a used car for his son. I'm guessing between $3k and $4k? The car was owned by the present owner's wife's father. I can't vouch for the frame (yet) but it has been in Arizona for a number of years. I'm not sure of the previous location. I've seen the LR. It is like others of its age. The present owner has no idea of it's value. And I'm new enough that I don't either. If anyone would care to present an opinion, I would certainly appreciate it. James Howard of Flagstaff also offered to look at it. As luck would have it, he and his girlfirend are on their way back from Tenn in James' MB. (BGT I think....) James??? If you read this call me ASAP....... If I decide not to make an offer, I'll post the gentleman's name and number. Thanks... Gerry BTW: If you offer an opinion, please copy me directly at gelam30092@aol.com. Those are zero's in 30092. I get the list in digest form and would rather not wait to see your thought....... ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: GElam30092@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 12:51:15 -0500 Subject: Rear/worklight Rick Larson writes "Got a bunch of Safari Gard stuff. The diff guards work. Mine have scars to prove it. So do the rock sliders. Favorite toy from them has to be the rear work/backup light though." Those who were behind you in the darkness of the Mojave especially appreciated the work/backup light. When pointed down behind Rick's 90, it worked especially well in lighting up the trial in complete darkness. I may have to figure out how to mount one too! Gerry "Phoenix AZ high today: 80 degrees... a record!" Elam ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 12 Jan 96 13:16:28 EST From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com> Subject: Mail order phone numbers My itchy trigger finger successfully trashed a message from someone on the net for phone numbers of ABP/craddock etc so here goes ABP 800 533 2210 -incidentally ABP had computer problems 12/18 and they failed to close their books their computer triggered some charges a second time, result I was charged twice on the credit card for the item. I called the credit card company and they stopped one charge, called ABP and "Barb" told me about the problem and apologized. Craddock - tel uk 1543 577207 fax 1543 504818 code for uk is 011 44 from the USA Liverpool LR (who i hate) uk 151 486,8636 fax 151 486,5986 sorry to the person who asked chris browne brit in boston 95 disco. have got stuck yet, guess i am not trying hard enough. ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com> Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 13:33:30 -0500 Subject: Re: LR Dealer Disaster On 11 Jan 96 at 15:22, ericz@cloud9.net wrote: . . . . > We walked in, looking a little worse for wear because > of the snow but nonetheless respectable. For at least 15 minutes we were [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > the Disco, genuinely interested in what was in stock, pricing and availability > of the D90 hardtop. . . . . Have had similar problems with a Toyota dealer that would not talk to women. A friend's wife had a problem buying a car there. Her husband went back, found the sales manager and laid it out for him. When the wife came back if she was treated well they would buy, if she was treated badly that was it. This from a brand with plenty of dealers in easy driving distance. -- Gerald Massachusetts, U.S. g@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mark.Kraieski@mailport.delta-air.com Date: 12 Jan 96 13:40:07 -0500 Subject: RE: Locking the Differential on a Disco I have had no difficulty locking and unlocking the center diff while rolling, even at speeds up to 40 MPH or more. I have the manual transmission and usually just lift off the gas and move her over sharply. Sometimes I lock while the clutch is in after downshifting. Don't know if the auto tranny has any peculiarites. One note - make sure your tire pressures are correct. If one or both tires on either end differ from the rest, the diff will be diffing and will not lock. Likewise, unlocking will be difficult. ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 96 13:59:50 EST From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com> Subject: She's back!!! Hello All, I finally get baby back, today!!! My 95 AA yellow Def90 that has been at Rovers North for 4 weeks, with a bad rear end, I mean (diff) is repaired. Wahoooo....it's snowing right now and were supposed to get around 6 to 12" more of the stuff and I have to drive 40 miles from the dealer home. What a shame!!!!!! Finally playin' in a winter wonderland! Barnett Happy joy Childress ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 14:00:35 -0500 Subject: Re: Mail order phone numbers What do you expect from ABP??? seems like there always screwing up something over there and their parts seem to have problems with fit etc...I would much rather spend more and deal with Rovers North where theres always a smile and a friendly voice on the other end.. I have been to AB a few times ( I live close) and was not at all impressed...you think you get treated lousy at the dealers??? go there and see Rgds Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: GElam30092@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 14:08:00 -0500 Subject: 88" Just went and looked that the red/orange 88" for sell. Several good signs: my wife likes it but wants it repainted eventually It was parked on a sloping drive and the wheels weren't chocked! Very few leaks underneath it Frame looks superb Body is very straight with only a few dings. Driver's side mirrow is still original Gerry "could it meant to be?" Elam ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ChrisF6724@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 14:10:03 -0500 Subject: RE: High lift mounting In my 88 series 3, I was thinking of mounting it on the bulkhead behind the seats using large bolts and rubber or neophrane spacers. (I know it fits across the interior). Another method I've seen jeeps use is drilling holes through the bumper and mounting it there. A trick used is to use large enough bolts that you can then use a anti-theft lock nut (same as used for wheels) to hopefully keep it from being stolen. I've also seen this technique used as a theft-deterent on winch mountings. Using neophrane body bushings (the ones for body lifts) makes for a nice spacer to keep the jack from scratching paint... Chris Fisher '73 LR88 Series 3 ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ChrisF6724@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 14:10:00 -0500 Subject: RE: South of the Border I believe Four-Wheeler magazine or 4 Wheel-Drive magazine had a article in the Feb. issue of a trek down the baja. Included in the article were tips on what to expect and bring. Road conditions are hap-hazard and things such as old tires are used to mark a wash-outs in the roads.. Also mentioned was the gasoline (how good, kind of what to expect to pay, and the Spanish translation between unleaded and leaded). Four-Wheeler also was the one with the off-road basics guide, which had some good things to say about the fording depth of the Defender (same as the Hummer :-) ) and a article reviewing the new RR (also a good review). Chris Fisher ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 12 Jan 96 14:16:34 EST From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com> Subject: Storing Hi lifts in RR/Discos No plans to get one of these tools yet, as hopefully if i ever get stuck I'll be with the club and get winched out (yes I have military tow hooks front and rear on my disco). But if I did own one, the logical thing to do would be to tie it to the dog guard (LR OEM part bolted to the vehicle) Might have to get the gun rack to make it work. BTW do Hi lifts fit into the receiver hitch on NAS lrs? I assume that that is a strong enough place to lift it regards Chris browne Wife complains that I drive to fast in the snow, I enjoy getting the ABS to work. Hey disco owners why don't we get together and tape the ABS working (NOISY) and ask 90/series owners to tell us what is wrong with our cars????....... theyll never figure that noise out. hee hee hee Losing it in Boston as we prepare for yet another snowstorm ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 11:24:20 -0800 From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder) Subject: Locking the Differential on a Disco You're right, you can engage diff lock by moving the lever to the left without going to nuetral first (at least I can in my Range Rover). You say you can't engage diff lock this way. Exactly what happens when you try? Does the lever fail to move that way, or does the light fail to come on? Keep in mind that diff lock does not necessary engage the instant you tell it to. There's often a delay, the length of which depends on speed and traction conditions and who knows what else. -Matt ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@microsoft.com> Subject: RE: Loose valve cover bolts Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 11:46:14 -0800 It seems like every time I open the hood of my Discovery (which, I grant you is maybe only once a month) there's something that's loose. So far it's been, over the past 13,500 miles: valve covers, oil pan, power steering fluid reservoir & hose clamps, brush-bar mounting bolts. Nothing catastrophic, yet, but if I didn't catch the looser than "finger tight" oil pan bolts, it wouldn't be long before I had a big mess and a red idiot light coming on! OTOH, the dealer has been very good about replacing the leaky gaskets under warranty. OBTW, where do you get a socket for the valve covers on a Disco, what kind of bolt head is that anyway? Thanks! ---------- From: Jeff Gauvin[SMTP:jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com] Subject: Loose valve cover bolts Leland J Roys says: I did fail to mention, the only problem I had on my Colorado trip was oil leakage from all 4 outside bolts of the valve covers. By the end of the trip it had turned into a pretty good stream of oil. Normal? I wouldn't expect it, but uncommon - no! I noticed my valve covers were leaking and had them re-torqued at about 11,250 miles. At the same time I had to have my oil pan gasket replaced and a bad coolant hose clamp replaced. _____ /|__|_\__(| Bob Watson | | | \ a-robw@microsoft.com |---|___|___\____ Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA | _|= |= |o_ }\ [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}| '95 Beluga Black Discovery \_/ \_/ N7UMU ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@microsoft.com> Subject: RE: Storing Hi lifts in RR/Discos Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 12:06:24 -0800 > BTW do Hi lifts fit into the receiver hitch on NAS lrs? I assume that > that is a strong enough place to lift it > regards > Chris browne I bought a receiver mounted shackle (a WARN part). It slips into the receiver and I just hook the jack into the shackle. The only problem is that the back of the Disco has to be jacked up 2' before the rear wheels come off the ground! _____ /|__|_\__(| Bob Watson | | | \ a-robw@microsoft.com |---|___|___\____ Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA | _|= |= |o_ }\ [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}| '95 Beluga Black Discovery \_/ \_/ N7UMU ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 96 19:43:17 UT From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com> Subject: RE: Storing Hi lifts in RR/Discos Chris, Storing hi-lift on the dog guard could be dangerous if not clamped down real good. A side movement when off road could send the hi-lift through the side windows or least could crack / break window. Be careful . Mark ---------- From: Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com Sent: Friday, January 12, 1996 2:17 PM Subject: Storing Hi lifts in RR/Discos To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net No plans to get one of these tools yet, as hopefully if i ever get stuck I'll be with the club and get winched out (yes I have military tow hooks front and rear on my disco). But if I did own one, the logical thing to do would be to tie it to the dog guard (LR OEM part bolted to the vehicle) Might have to get the gun rack to make it work. BTW do Hi lifts fit into the receiver hitch on NAS lrs? I assume that that is a strong enough place to lift it regards Chris browne Wife complains that I drive to fast in the snow, I enjoy getting the ABS to work. Hey disco owners why don't we get together and tape the ABS working (NOISY) and ask 90/series owners to tell us what is wrong with our cars????....... theyll never figure that noise out. hee hee hee Losing it in Boston as we prepare for yet another snowstorm ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 12:53:12 -0800 Subject: Re: What do you keep in YOUR tool kit? Tool Kit that gets loaded for long trips: - 3/8 socket set short & long sockets, short & long ratchets, breaker bar, extensions, and torque wrench. - an assortment of slot & phllip screwdrivers. - a couple of cresent wrenches and vice-grips - a set of combination wrenches, with duplicate 1/2 and 9/16 wrenches. - gas pliers, slip jaw pliers, long nose pliers. - large diagonal cutters, wire stripper - continuity tester - A couple of clip leads - a tube of blue RTV that comes in the silver tube - a hand full of rags - file - a pice of sand paper - feeler guages - hammer - assorted punches & chissles Additional Tools that stay home: - ring pliers - electric impact wrench & sockets - compressor. sand blaster, cut off wheel, grinder - pickle fork - multimeter - crimper - allan wrench set - electric side grinder Spares: - engine oil - 90 wt - rear 'U' bolts & nuts - special hoses - fan belt - water pump - plugs, cap, rotor, points, spark plug wire - length of insulated electrical wire. - a bale's worth of baling wire Probably the most important part; Before going on long trips or offroading I carefully inspct the car and check/fill all fluids. I do the inspection at least two weekends before the trip so I can have a weekend to do repairs or replacements. I restrict my Land Rover to the road or home if I do not think the car is not mechanically in very good shape. I check all the fluids just before leaving. I do not want to be the one who breaks down. I think people lose patience for someone who breaks down every time that they come out on an offroad meet. TeriAnn ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ericz@cloud9.net Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 14:06:29 -0800 Subject: Re: LR Dealer Disaster -Reply On Fri, 12 Jan 1996, William Owen <ib011ca@smtpaoc.tsc.state.tn.us> wrote: I think dealer and salesmen vary, just like owners do.... .... And don't even get me started on the jeep and toyota sales tactics I've experianced. You're right about it being a problem that doesn't confine itself to one marque. Some of the more "mainstream" dealers are downright slimy...although they'll at least talk to you. I guess it just hurt more coming from a marque with which I identify. Eric ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 1996 00:02:40 -0600 (CST) From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk> Subject: RE: New Discovery model? and comparison test In message 12 Jan 96 03:56:45 EST, Lars Rosenmeier <100670.3705@compuserve.com> writes: For your information: I have a photo in front of me of a '96 Land Rover Discovery pick up with hard top. In Denmark we get a lot of 4X4s that are converted to pick models because of our special tax rules. Normally the [snip] I believe that the hard tops are made by Nordic Car Import, DK. With these hard tops, the Defenders look just like the old 90/110. In order to make the pickup stay a pickup they had to cut the back door in two. You'll have to look close up to see the difference. Good job indeed. Nice to see the box landies with yellow license plates again. BTW yesterday a danish newspaper (Berlingske Tidende) compared the [snip] Lars Read that too. Finally a test that includes deep mud puddles and 1.5 ton trailers. They used a military exercise area for the test. Damn good reading! cheers sv/aurens PS: A co. here used to make pick-ups from Mercedes sedans to knock the tax. One used to park 200 metres from where i live. "Wouldn't haul manure in anything less". ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 18:27:12 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Bad advertising Robert Virzi wrote about LRNA: >"Due to weather, LRNA offices are closed today...." Jeez, that is about the *worst* possible advertising possible. Better that the recording had said "...sorry, we are all out pulling out ambulances/ unsticking the Presidential limo/saving civilization as we know it..." rather than "closed due to the weather." There was that nifty image of the D-90 on the empty streets of NY, though. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 18:58:08 -0500 From: Joseph Broach <calas@utkux1.utk.edu> Subject: Re: land Rover camping Dear RoverCampers, Since I own an 88 and do a lot of camping, I am very interested in the 'cots' TeriAnn mentioned which stretch across the bulkhead. If anyone has any further information on them or has found another interesting way to sleep in their 88, please e-mail me. Joseph Broach <calas@utkux.utk.edu> Knoxville, Tennessee '67 IIa 88" (limestone,marine blue,pastel green,poppy red,etc.) ------------------------------[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 16:17:07 -0800 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: 2.25 7:1 to 8:1 petrol rebuild Well now that the Turner is in place and I have a spare 2.25l on my hands... I've decided to rebuild the 2.25 7:1. The rebuild will include converting to unleaded for the head. I'm seriously considering doing a full effort rebuild including balancing the crank, flywheel, etc. However, I'm not entirely sure what can/should be done to refine stock parts. I'm not interested in "hot rodding" the engine (e.g, installing a 2.5l cam :) ). I'm more interested in doing as high a quality rebuild as possible using genuine parts treated as necessary. Low end torque is more important that increased hp (with the new 65mph limit traveling at the limit is probably hopeless anyway :)). The general open question I have is what can be done to standard parts to optimize their performance (what would people add to the fill in the etc. above)? What should I be looking to do apart from the afore mentioned (equal weight components? a particular valve type? decking the block?). Any recommendations? Any good references on general principles of "high performance" rebuilding? Also I've a parts question. [OK I'm being resource lazy; my excuse is the parts books are not within reach]. In upgrading the 2.25l to 8:1 compression did Land Rover change the cam? I'm planning on rebuilding the 7:1 to and 8:1 and need to know if the cam (or anything else for that matter) needs replacing with a different part or will a straight forward head swap or shave do? Cheers and thanks, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 56 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com Subject: re: Increasing Discovery's Gas Mileage Date: Fri, 12 Jan 96 17:24:03 PST >I'm a proud new owner of a 96 Discovery >I've recently made a few minor additions to the disco that have = >given me an increase of 5 MPG so I thought as my first post to this = >group I'd share this info with all of you. First of all I replaced the = >stock champion plugs (YUK) with Splitfires and gapped them at .038. >Secondly I changed my oil and = >replaced it with 1 quart of "Duralube" and the remainder with 10-40w = >Castrol Syntech Synthetic oil. >And finally and most importantly I = >replaced the Air filter with a K&N lifetime filter. The parts stores = >will tell you that there is no application for a discovery, but I found = >out that the air filter that is used in the Discovery is identical to = >the one that is used in an 86-91 944 Turbo Porshe. You know, I'd be worried about some of the modifications you've made. First of all, since you have a near-brand-new vehicle, your engine isn't fully broken in. I don't think you're supposed to use Duralube or synth oil until after you've driven something like 10,000 miles. Another issue is that you might get more oil leaks with the synth oil. Also, with the non-standard plugs and the oils you've added, the dealer might not honor your warranty if anything goes wrong with the engine. Do you really want to risk this on a $35K vehicle? Finally, I think if these simple changes would bring a Discovery up to 19 MPG without any negative effects, the factory would've already done it. -- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Roger Peng (408)765-7863 Intel Corporation Design Technology, Physical CAD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 57 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: stretch@vol.net Date: Sat, 13 Jan 96 09:03:17 PST Subject: Defender lamp guards Recently, I ordered a pair of RTC8969 lamp guards through the LR dealer here in Hong Kong. I have now received the product. Description follows: Catalog lists them as black nylon covered steel and a picture makes them look like a stand-alone wire strip version of the brush-bar mounted versions. I reality, the units are incredibly heavy duty...they are indeed nylon covered steel.....steel plate, not wire! Each weighs about 5 to six pounds and is formed of welded blades of steel in a steel frame. Each guard mounts directly to the body/wing, completely cageing the headlamp and utility lamps. They hinge down for lamp cleaning; hinges are simple captive loop units...nothing fancy. Upper attachment is via nut-serts...complete installation supplies are bubble packed in kit. From the looks of it, some form of dust cap would be a good measure for the rear of the nut-sert, just to avoid binding. In the event of a head-on with a boulder, these will likely be the only undamaged areas on the vehicle! The entire kit costs equivalent of about $283.00 US...steep, but can't argue re quality and fit... bye ------------------------------[ <- Message 58 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 18:15:20 -0800 Subject: re: Increasing Discovery's Gas Mileage From: Hugo Madden <madhugo@best.com> > Also, with the non-standard plugs and the oils you've added, the dealer >might not honor your warranty if anything goes wrong with the engine. You'll definitely lose your warranty if you don't change the oil at the specified intervals (Auto manufacturers haven't yet got turned on to the benefits of synth.) Changing synth at 7,500 mile intervals is going to blow most of the savings that you think you're getting from your gas mileage improvements! >Do you really want to risk this on a $35K vehicle? Finally, I think >if these simple changes would bring a Discovery up to 19 MPG without >any negative effects, the factory would've already done it. _______ //_/_|__\___ \_ - ___ - _d (o) (o) ------------------------------[ <- Message 59 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mark M Herrick <mherrick@ptialaska.net> Subject: Towing Series III Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 17:10:19 -0900 Hello all, I am looking into buying a Series III in pretty good shape. I have = been through it pretty thoroughly and have found a few minor problems = but they are all ones that I can live with and fix. The guy selling it has towed it behind his RV, probably for a lot of = miles, with all four wheels on the ground and has even welded a tow bar = on the front bumper for this purpose. Does the Landi take well to this = sort of towing or am I looking at possible gearbox or axle problems in = the future?? Any other pointers to look for before putting down the money would be = much appreciated! Mark Herrick Hopefully soon to be SIII Kodiak, Alaska. ------------------------------[ <- Message 60 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: HMEdwards@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 22:14:44 -0500 Subject: D90 Station Wagons I passed by the local Land Rover dealer here in Las Vegas and noticed two new D90 Station Wagens, both in Alpine White. Sweet! Now if I could find the 32,000 to pick one up. They were working on selling one and the other was not spoken for. So for those of you wanting the latest in a series vehicle, call Chaisson Motors in Las Vegas. The salesman said they were going for sticker and with the competition coming out of casinos with fresh money, that is the normal story here in town. Hurry before someone else finds them. Harry Edwards 72 Series III Las Vegas ------------------------------[ <- Message 61 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Gene Sparks <galleryg@techline.com> Subject: Wrong Phone number for Euro Parts Ltd. Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 19:15:42 -0800 The correct # for Euro Parts Ltd. is 1-800-274-4830. Sorry about that chief. ------------------------------[ <- Message 62 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ecoethic@rcinet.com Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 22:19:16 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Snobbery The issue of lack of respect for people who do not appear to be =93seriou= s customers=94 (read that dressed well, arriving in sufficiently expensive = vehicle) at Land Rover dealerships will not go away unless LRNA does something about = it. Unfortunately, I think we have an ice-cubes=92 chance in Death Valley of = ever seeing that happen. For instance, I seriously doubt that anybody from Land Rover= North America management (or any other continent) is active on this list, excep= t for our two salesmen (who get mixed reviews). If I am wrong will the offended per= son(s) please send us a message to clarify your presence. If I am right, we will= assume your lurking silence to be the equivalent of non-existence. You effete in= sulting snobs owe Eric and his father a profound apology, not to mention the many= hundreds of others! If we were not so spread out I would recommend picketing particularly off= ensive dealerships. (I=92m getting hot now) Hey, how about instead of going on a= rally to some remote spot we assemble at the worst dealerships to picket the basta= rds for a few days! What have we got to lose? Our big discounts on do-it-yourself p= arts; parts for Series Rovers? (Someday D90=92s and Discoveries will be old too= , do you guys want to be treated the way we are now?) I am sure this list could wh= ip-up a top-ten list of insensitive dealers without too much trouble. I=92m glad I=92m spending the price of a Range Rover on my education; it = gives me one more excuse to never consider buying a new Rover anything! And to think t= hat Land Rover used to stand for utility, practicality, and spartan functiona= l design. Walter Pokines Tipp City, Ohio, USA Series Fanatic, Hater of Snobbery ------------------------------[ <- Message 63 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@microsoft.com> Subject: RE: Snobbery Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 19:53:55 -0800 Re: snobbery. a) LRNA seems to actively promote snobbery so I wouldn't hold my breath expecting them to change things from that end after all they are pushing $50+/- 15 thousand dollar vehicles. In marketing terms, that's snob country, folks, like it or not. (LRO netters excluded, of course :-). b) Vote for your favorite dealer with your dollars While there's tremendous, though fleeting, satisfaction in "getting even" with the kahki-clad fools that pass for salespeople at some of the aforementioned dealerships it really is a waste of effort. As one friend of mine used to say, "you can't polish a turd" so why waste the effort. I think the best application of emotions and net.bandwidth is to identify the good ones and the less-than-good so that the former are rewarded for their efforts and manners while the others get what they've earned (i.e. an empty showroom!) This list provides a powerful and effective tool to facilitate the above. That's one of the reasons I like it. _____ /|__|_\__(| Bob Watson | | | \ a-robw@microsoft.com |---|___|___\____ Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA | _|= |= |o_ }\ [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}| '95 Beluga Black Discovery \_/ \_/ N7UMU ------------------------------[ <- Message 64 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: Snobbery Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 20:30:57 -0800 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> Robert Watson wrote: > I think > the best application of emotions and net.bandwidth is to identify the good > ones and the less-than-good so that the former are rewarded for their > efforts and manners while the others get what they've earned (i.e. an empty > showroom!) OK, let's do something. Someone on the list is compiling/typing a list of dealers and promises to email me a copy to put on the RoverWeb. When I get that list, I'll solicit responses from all of you. The compiled version will be posted here and on the RoverWeb. (To be fair, I'll include all comments about specific dealerships) Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. He'd drive it up the Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..." --Kevin Archie ------------------------------[ <- Message 65 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 1996 00:07:46 -0500 From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall Thomas) Subject: Re: 2.25 7:1 to 8:1 petrol rebuild > What should I be looking to do apart from the afore >mentioned (equal weight components? a particular valve type? decking >the block?). Any recommendations? Any good references on general >principles of "high performance" rebuilding? Jeremy, What you're doing is essentially "blueprinting" the engine. There is an excellent text called Engine Blueprinting and when I come across it in my stuff, I'll post the author, ISBN. This can get as involved as you want it to be based on your dollars and motivation. Balancing is essential, yet there are many things involved with building a performance engine that are related to increasing efficiency, such as polishing intake passages, etc. and these are the ones you want to concentrate on and apply to the standard components. Plenty of info out there. > 7:1 to and 8:1 and need to know if the cam (or anything else for >that matter) needs replacing with a different part or will a straight >forward head swap or shave do? I don't think the cam is different, at least when I went from 7:1 to 8:1 I didn't change it and everything was fine. .100 inch is required to be removed from the head to up the ratio. The only parts that will change are the pushrods. They need to be shorter of course. Oh, if you opt for shaving the hundred thou off the head, make sure the shop magnafluxes before AND after milling. This is alot of meat to remove and sometimes flaws in the casting which were not apparent before can appear. Cheers, Randall ------------------------------[ <- Message 66 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 21:17:16 -0800 Subject: Re: Opening bottles (was: Re: Range Rovers off road) From: Hugo Madden <madhugo@best.com> >Alas, I have a Series semi-plushmobile (S III), so cannot use this >clever place. Short of a pair or pliers, what is the secret of >opening beer bottles on an S III? Just bite the bullet and install a dash-mounted bar-style opener. Think of how it'll boost the resale value! _______ //_/_|__\___ \_ - ___ - _d (o) (o) ------------------------------[ <- Message 67 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 21:18:43 -0800 Subject: RE: High lift mounting From: Hugo Madden <madhugo@best.com> >In my 88 series 3, I was thinking of mounting it on the bulkhead behind the >seats using large bolts and rubber or neophrane spacers. (I know it fits [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] >makes for a nice spacer to keep the jack from scratching paint... >Chris Fisher '73 LR88 Series 3 Are we still talking bottle openers or did I miss something here? _______ //_/_|__\___ \_ - ___ - _d (o) (o) ------------------------------[ <- Message 68 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jgoldman@acs.bu.edu Subject: Fuel pumps and heaters... Date: Sat, 13 Jan 1996 01:44:47 -0500 (EST) After successfully removing both front wings from my new 2.25L petrol '71 SIIA, I ran into a couple items that had me slightly puzzled. Aside from gaining even greater respect for Liquid Wrench (What, BTW, do other people use), I had a good look at the condition of the mechanical fuel pump and heater assembly. One of the previous owners decided to bypass the mechanical fuel pump opting to install a small electric pump. The electric pump is noisy and malfunctioning. Occasionally it will just shut off. Turning off power, walking away for ten minutes, and turning the ignition switch on sometimes restores fuel flow. More often it's a crap shoot. For a little while I, quite honestly, thought the pump would work again if I merely took out the ignition key and re-inserted it, as it seemed to work too many times to be simple coincidence! Well, that theory was shot down after the pump quit altogether for an extended period of time. The original mechanical pump is still on the engine. It's just not used. A recent issue of LRO International had an article on re-building fuel pumps. With the wings off, I mangaged to get a socket in there and rip the sucker out. It seems to be in fairly good condition. Only opening it up will tell more. One thing it is missing, however, is the glass sediment bowl. After that lengthy preface, where can I get the sediment bowl part of the pump? Is it sold separately? This one's quicker. I removed the severly rusty blower assembly from the truck's heater. It's got a side intake style heater. What brand is it? The blower says Smiths, so I'm assuming the whole assembly is a Smiths, but I was under the impression that the round interior heater was the Smiths. The core is a flat block of radiating fins. What does a Kodiak look like? Anyone know how to release a brake drum screw? One of mine is seized, and no amount of Liquid Wrench has worked, so far. I'm wary of applying the propane torch due to the brake parts inside. Anyone see a major problem with this? Jeff Goldman (Boston, MA) E-Mail: jgoldman@acs.bu.edu ------------------------------[ <- Message 69 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Land Rover movie sighting Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 23:05:37 -0800 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> For whoever is keeping the list. There is a Range Rover mkII (4.0SE or 4.6HSE) in "Two if by Sea". (Or was that "Three if by Land Rover"? :) Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake ------------------------------[ <- Message 70 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 960113 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 68 lines 2647 [forwarded 185 whitespace 637] Output: lines 2131 [content 1320 forwarded 102 (cut 83) whitespace 598]Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.