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Date: Fri, 05 Jan 1996 04:04:19 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Fun Days & cretins

As observed the fun day at Tixover was marred by the usual cretins. I
always turn up first thing and leave by about lunch time to avoid them.
The whole place is usually quieter then.
  
There where two in particular at Tixover, both trailered LRs there. One
had 18" wide tyres that meant it wouldn't fit on the trailer so it sat
up on the edge rail and overhung. Very safe. His mate had a V8
lightweight with maxi cross type tyres. He also seemed to have a
throttle problem (or perhaps it was a grey matter prob.?).
  
Warming up the engine consisted of 5 minutes at 15000 rpm, or at least
that is what it sounded like.
  
He then screamed around at a frightening pace. Meanwhile his mate with
the tyres got stuck on a steep downhill. That's literally on the steep
bit. I have no idea how, surely gravity would have intervened. The
solution was to drive the other one into the back of it to bump it down
the hill. This was proceeded by a display of how not to spin a LR round
to line up with another car. You'd think with all the practice he would
have got simple things like spinning a car sorted...
  
When matey finally moved down hill there was a frightening noise. As he
crawled past me I saw that the front prop was broken. Even I grease
things before they get that bad.
  
There was a third cretin as well, this time on a trike. His party piece
seemed to be screaming around the car park by the burger van on two
wheels, dodging pedestrians, etc. Why is it every time a trike or quad
arrives at these things they always travel faster than the cars by at
least 100%? It's not as if they are two wheelers and would fall over if
they went too slow.
  
There where similar ice breaking problems to Metherington. Except you
could spot the cars that had done it by the panel damage to the front
end... The front wheels drop through the ice then the bumper went under
the ice and the nice bendy panels around the rad & lights would hit the
end of the sheet of ice. Normally the ice won.
  
By the time I left traffic jams where a real problem. Everywhere you
tried to go involved waiting for someone to get out of your way.
  
There was a 2CV there as well. Apparently he left after breaking one of
his diffs... Yep it was a 4x4 2VC. It was surprisingly competent as
well.
  
Have fun, Steve
  
Steve Reddock                         Product Evaluation, 26/12
Xyratex                  Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450  Int.721-4450
REDDOCK at HVTVM         Internet: Steve_Reddock@UK.XYRATEX.COM

------------------------------

From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Headlamp guards
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 10:05:18 +0000 (GMT)

I had one headlamp smashed by stones from a road-gritting wagon last
year, before I had got around to fitting the guards. Their only drawback
is that cleaning the salt & road grime from the headlamps requires a bit
more thought. I now have stick with a rag mop on the end of it.
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

From: Danny Phillips <danny@tlpgate.lonpar.co.uk>
Subject: re:lamp guards.
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 96 10:20:13 GMT

dear all, i am just dropping this note to the chap about lamp guards. i have 
a wrap round bull bar (roo or brush guard) on my disco with thin metal bits to 
protect the lights. just before xmas these were a god send as i was following 
a lorry that flicked up a stone and it hit the front of the car with quite a
noise, as i was only about 2 miles from home and all my lights were still 
working (i guessed with out getting out) i pressed on home.

when i got home and checked, yes they were all working, but lodged and well
stuck into these guards was a flipping great peice of tarmac. god alone knows
what mess that would have made of my lights and or wing (i had to used a 
hammer to get it out) if the guards had not been there.

with all the crap being written about bull bars here in the uk, i tell people
i have them to protect my car when off road, now they are protecting it on the
road with the state of our british roads.

i am now trying to find a mesh type cover for my spot lights as these are 
quite exposed.

anyway hope you all had a good xmas.
danny

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 05:09:54 -0600 (CST)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: heaters and such

It's too true about getting all the 90wt to turn, even after the beast
starts.(80W90 actually) It was -32 C here in Winnipeg when I left work
about midnight. The IIA was plugged in with a circulating-type block
heater. Engine (with 10W40) fired up after a few seconds cranking with
about 2/3 choke out, smoothed out running after about a minute. Getting
moving was the tough part, like driving with the parking brake on for the
first few minutes, not to mention the 'square' tires, and ultra-stiff
shocks. Things smoothed out after a few minutes and after a few more
minutes, the Kodiak heater was keeping me toasty warm, despite near 
absence of door seals, etc. .(Of course, I'm
dressed for winter, too) That's with a radiator muff, so engine
temp gets up to normal range after about ten minutes or so. This is
typical Prairie winter driving, but Dave Place's battery blanket
suggestion is a good one, too. I think I have one kicking about the
garage. BTW, the taxis, and many fleet vehicles run on propane here, and I
don't think freezing is a problem for them. 

Also, I realize I have one of those Series II manifolds with the upward 
angled outlet out in the garage, and some other SII bits. If anyone's  
desperately seeking such, let me know.

Cheers,

Mark Perry  Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada 
1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop 
"Yes, I can see quite well over the spare tire."

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 03:50:14 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: 7:1 or 8:1 head - any performance difference?

Al "Just gotta tear something apart" Richer asks...

>2.25L engine Would a significant performance difference be seen with either
head?
>Reason I'm asking is that I managed to acquire a 7:1 head for my beast that
had 
>been Stellite-converted, and my old boy's presently got an 8:1 head on his 
>engine.
-

Come on Al! That 8:1 head practically turns your Rover into a Formula racer!
(with the aerodynamics of an upright piano...)

Welll... the lower compression head will let you do things like run the
engine on kerosene.... Other than that, I dunno.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 96 7:10:54 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Defender Quest for more heat

Hi All,

Hope this will help some of you fellow Roverites out there suffering from 
frozen heinies. Rover's North sells a radiator muff for the front of 
defenders that is supposed to DRAMATICALLY, (their words) increase the 
heaters output by letting the engine operate in it's normal temperature 
range. This would be a much simpler thing to do than installing another 
type of heater but I don't know if it would fill all of your needs. The 
unit is well made and attractive. It costs around $40.

P.S. -15C at my house this morning (with wind chill) in Sturbridge, MA.!

Frozen ASS in MASS!

Barnett
95 D90
  

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date:          Fri, 5 Jan 1996 06:23:48 GMT -0600
Subject:       Re: heaters and such

On those *really* cold days when the beast didn't want to move, like 
having grease instead of 90W, I always started out in low range until 
things lossened up a bit.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date:     Fri, 5 Jan 96 7:19:51 EST (1219Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Oil Filters and Headlight Covers

To all,

There were a couple of postings earlier in the week about oil filters for
Discoverys and perspex headlight covers.

FWIW, my Series has been converted from the "sump" style oil filter to a spin
on.  When I got the truck, the PO was using original LR filters.  I crossed the
PN and got the filter for Range Rover V8s.  Here are the numbers I got:

     Purolator - HP1 or L39001
     AC        - HD222
     FRAM      - HP1
     Motorcraft- FL-1HP
     WIX       - 51622

AutoZone also sells Deutsch brand filters, with one for RR V8s.  Don't have a
number yet for them.  The HP1 from what I can find out is a high performance
(flow and filtration) version of the PH1.  While the cans will interchange, I
don't think the bypass springs inside are the same and would not go with the
standard grade filter.

Yesterday or the day before, someone posted a note about perspex headlamp
guards.  If you want to protect the lamps without spending the bucks, you might
want to get a copy of the Gritot's Garage Catalog.  (1-800-345-5789)
They list peel and stick "Protective Shields" for headlamps that supposedly
will stop a pellet rifle shot at 20 feet.  Comes in three sizes - trim to fit.
I have no connection with them - just provided for your consumption.

'til later,

Larry

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 96 7:53:24 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Headlight guards

Gerald,

I had a headlight and a windshield taken out last summer and I wasn't even 
off-road! A semi passed me and some stones fell out of the trailer, 
bounced off of the pavement and struck my D90. I had a hole punched thru 
the left headlamp and three nice divets in the windshield. If I would have 
had some type of lamp guards in place I know the headlamp would have been 
spared. 

Actually this was a great excuse to replace my headlamps with the HELLA's!

Barnett
95 D90. 

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  5 Jan 96  8:21:45 EST
Subject: Re: 7:1 or 8:1 head - any performance difference?

>Al "Just gotta tear something apart" Richer asks...

Who, me? If it stops breaking, I'll stop tinkering...8*)

>>2.25L engine Would a significant performance difference be seen with either
>>head?

>Come on Al! That 8:1 head practically turns your Rover into a Formula racer!
>(with the aerodynamics of an upright piano...)

If I can pass people on the highway, I'm happy.....8*) Thank you, Mister 
Overdrive.......8*)

>Welll... the lower compression head will let you do things like run the
>engine on kerosene.... Other than that, I dunno.

onsidering how good the damned oxygenated useless gas is, this might be an 
option...8*)

Actually, amusingly enough, I ran across the answer 10 minutes after I sent the 
message, in of all places the Rovers North catalogue. It says there's a 4HP 
difference between the two. Considering the 8:1 head probably isn't in the 
greatest of shape, it'll cancel out...

Cheers
Mike

 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 15:39:37 -0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: AFRICA TOUR

You guys thought that you had troubles with majordomo !
I havent received anything since the 11th of December. 
I eventually re-subscribed and that solved the problems.

Is there anyone in SA or abroad who would like to join me on a four month trip
from Pretoria, South Africa to London, UK (full trip or a part of it) in
his/her own vehicle. No major plans are set yet. 
I plan to leave early January 1997 in a SIII Turbo Diesel Camper.

Please e-mail me for any info or questions.

bcotton@lia.co.za

PS: The guy who had asked for info on the hydraulic Winch please mail me too.
Cheers :-)

------------------------------

Date:  Fri, 5 Jan 1996 08:43:00 -0500 
From: "christian (c.j.) szpilfogel" <chrisz@bnr.ca>
Subject:  Re: Disco ABS Effectiveness 

Good explanation of ABS from the anonymous poster :-). I am not sure how
the "All-Terrain" aspect of LR's "All-Terrain ABS" comes into play
except that it is 4-channel, 4 hi/lo, Forward/Reverse.

BTW: My '95 has 4 channel ABS.

>From: NADdMD@aol.com
>Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 09:58:33 -0500
>Subject: Re: Disco ABS Effectiveness
 ... Plenty of ABS tech stuff...

------------------------------

Christian Szpilfogel  - '95 Discovery
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
chrisz@bnr.ca   Work: (613) 763-5713   FAX:  (613) 765-4855           
---------------------------------------------------------------
My Opinions are my own and you may borrow them, if you wish, 
but I want them back when you're done.
???????????????????????????????

------------------------------

Date:  Fri, 5 Jan 1996 08:44:00 -0500 
From: "christian (c.j.) szpilfogel" <chrisz@bnr.ca>
Subject:  re: Noise in driveline 

Yesterday, a gentleman posted a long cocos about some mods he made to his
Discovery. One of the things he mentioned was that he was now hearing noise
in the driveline.

Off the top of my head, I would guess the extra lift and new diffs may have
done it. I'm not a mechanical engineer so take my advice with a grain of
salt.

The prop shafts on the Discovery are already at fairly inclined angle due
both to the short wheelbase and tucked up transfer case. When the shaft
turns when at an angle (i.e. UJ is not in line) the output of the
shaft to the diff has an eliptical power curve. The stock diffs should
have enough slop in it to absorbe this variation so that the vehicle's
momentum and engine output are not fighting each other.

The combination of lifting the vehicle and putting in new diffs (potentially
with less play in it) would cause the prop shaft to be under stress.

It could of course be nothing more than an out of whack UJ but if you still
have the factory diffs, you might want to experiment by swapping them back
in. This is probably easier than un-lifting.

BTW: I was also looking at giving My Discovery a 2-3" lift to get it more
     in line with the Defender's clearance. So I'll be curious to see your
     resolution.

Cheers,

  -Christian

------------------------------

Christian Szpilfogel  - '95 Discovery
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
chrisz@bnr.ca   Work: (613) 763-5713   FAX:  (613) 765-4855           
---------------------------------------------------------------
My Opinions are my own and you may borrow them, if you wish, 
but I want them back when you're done.

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 06:23:14 -0800
Subject: Re: 7:1 or 8:1 head - any performance difference?

Alan,
raising the compression level has always been known as one of the easiest
ways to reliably increase HP in an internal combustion engine.  In this case,
its 4 HP (per fact manual).

On the other hand, the lower the compression, the lower the octane needed to
run an engine safely.  The 7:1 head was offered to allow the Land Rover to be
used in countries with poor quality petrol.

Considering that most cars I have had have compression ratios around 8:7 to
9:5, it seems to me like shaving the head might be a way to coax a little
more reliable HP out of the underpowered lump of iron under my bonnet.

I don't know about your car, but I need every little horse I can find to get
my 109 up a highway on a hill without worring about being rear ended by a
car.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 06:56:41 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Headlight guards

I have a broken headlight on My 94 D-90. The lens has about a 7 inch crack it.
It still works....
Russ Burns
94 D-90
91 R-ROver

At 09:48 PM 1/4/96 -0500, Gerald wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Anyone here actually seen a headlamp broken by a rock or branch? Was 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Gerald
>g@ix.netcom.com
Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------

From: stretch@vol.net
Date: Fri,  5 Jan 96 22:25:02 PST
Subject: re:lamp guards. 

There's a stand-alone product, RTC8969, which is a grille-style headlamp guard presumably for use without the brush bar.  This unit bolts to body above & below the headlamp bezel;  the grille is hinged for lamp cleaning.  Steel wire, black nylon coated.  I'm picking up a set here in Hong Kong...will advise.

Incidentally, my reference here thus far is Land Rover pub#STC7592, Defender 90, 110, 130 Accessories.  This brochure also lists LR clothing and personal accessories;  my favorites are the LR beach umbrella (STC8730), the 6oz stainless steel flask with Java Lizard pattern leather sheath (RTC6891), and LR Teddy Bear.  I was given this by local HK Rover dealer listed below:

Dodwell Motors
Yau Ma Tei Street
Kowloon, Hong Kong
tel:  852 2713 0302

They don't handle Defender, but happily order parts.  Very courteous, very patient...goes a long way, given the language barrier.

regards

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 08:58:39 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: re:Defender Quest for more heat

On Fri, 5 Jan 1996, barnett childress wrote:
.> Hope this will help some of you fellow Roverites out there suffering from
.> frozen heinies. Rover's North sells a radiator muff for the front of
.> defenders that is supposed to DRAMATICALLY, (their words) increase the
.> heaters output by letting the engine operate in it's normal temperature
.> range.

the rednecks here in midwest usa (me included) use a cut-to-fit 
piece of cardboard -- somehow stuffed into a crack on the valence
and held in by the force of oncomming wind.  looks quite studly and
really makes a difference....

ray harder (61 siia -- 88 (lulu))

------------------------------

From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: Re: 7:1 or 8:1 head - any performance difference?
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 96 15:03:00 GMT

All,

On the subject of head swaps and performance (not LR unfortunately).

I swapped a standard Austin mini head with a CR of about 8.5 (if my   
memory serves me well) for a head with a CR of 11 (or there abouts).  The   
performance differences was exceptional.

The downside though.  It must have stressed the engine as 6 - 8 months   
later the engine expired. (Live fast, die young as someone once said).

Regards

Trefor
tdelve@nectech.co.uk

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 96 10:07:25 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:pull pal

Bob,
Couldn't get your address to work so I had to post this on the list. Yes I 
am a BSROA member and I live in Sturbridge, MA. In between club events and 
rally's I do most of my off-roading on power and gas line tracks around my 
home. There is also some great off-roading around the Mohawk trail that I 
just read about in a recent 4WD mag.

Regards,
Barnett  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 07:06:56 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: re: Noise in driveline 

I added 2 to 3 inches of lift to my R-Rover, and my drive train has a 
vibration at 65 MPH. I believe it is from the lift. I plan to install
some normal spring when the temp. gets more hospitable

Russ Burns
91 R-ROver
94 D-90

>Yesterday, a gentleman posted a long cocos about some mods he made to his
>Discovery. One of the things he mentioned was that he was now hearing noise
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 41 lines)]
>My Opinions are my own and you may borrow them, if you wish, 
>but I want them back when you're done.
Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 07:11:15 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Disco electrics manual price diffrences

I got this manual from the dealership for US$37.77 (plus tax), but the part
number is listed on the receipt as LJAEMENL95.  The manual itself has the
part number Bill listed in his post, below.  Does anyone out there know what
the LJA... manual would be?  Maybe the dealer made a mistake, and I made out
like a bandit.  

Heh, heh, heh, heh.
John

At 10:26 03.01.96 -0500, crash@merl.com wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>on the same part (LR part# LJBEMENL95)
>	-Bill Yerazunis
>	 slush-encrusted 94 Disco (and I wave!)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Jan 96 10:16:51 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: LRW

SandY writes...

Got an advance copy of of February's Land Rover World today.  Check out 
pages 44 through 47 for scenes from the Mid-Atlantic Land Rover Rally. 
(...and if you look real close in the circular photo behind Dennis 
Perzynski, you can see Dave Bobeck.)

Too bad they didn't choose one of the more photogenic club members...
Anybody know where I can buy LRW in DC or VA? I can only get LROI. 
OR mybe someone can buy a copy and fwd it to me?
Thanks
Dave "ROAV Poster Child" Bobeck
72 SIII "Green Car", now IIa/III hybrid (IIa Grill)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 10:30:33 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Ace ventura Rovers, you can't murder the already dead

Dear All,
        A recent email said the Ace Ventura MURDERED Rovers. Well in the we
must save them all way of thinking maybe they did. But the real story is
that all but two of the 88's supplied to the movie company were utter
garbage! How do I know you ask, well I'm the one who built them. When the
call came in from the movie company, we had two weeks to put together 5
88's. My memories of those two weeks are a blur of welding on flat steel
rear cross members, cut to look like a real cross member from the back,
trying to get engines to run just a few more miles, making entire door
bottoms and bulkhead floors from bondo and cardboard, paint jobs that
covered everything, etc, etc. Two of the 88's were even RHD versions that
were converted to LHD. Man those trucks were a mess. Three of them still
survive, a gentleman in SC bought them.
        The majority of the trucks were non running wrecks we pulled out of
our field, not one of the ones that got wrecked cost more than 300 dollars.
So if you thought nice Rovers were being sacraficed, I've got quite a few
more like it here rusting into the ground that are the same quality. BTW,
the film was shot in Texas and South Carolina too, not Africa. Movie magic
can do wonders, I guess it fooled you.

Mike Smith, ECR

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 10:37:47 -0500
Subject: Re: 7:1 or 8:1 head - any performance difference?

>>raising the compression level has always been known as one of the easiest
ways to reliably increase HP in an internal combustion engine.  In this case,
its 4 HP (per fact manual).

This is true, but after putting the first 180K on Lulubelle with the factory
8:1 head, and driving the last 150K with a rebuilt RN 7:1, I'd swear she's
running better now.  Go figger'.

If you want to pick up a cheap 4 horses, remove the engine fan.  Especially
in the winter, it makes no difference to the engine temp.  I fitted my IIa
with a 8 bladed fan 20 years ago when I was working summers in Death Valley,
but lately I've just been leaving it off.  Even in summer, on the road - not
idleing, it seems to keep coolenough. - Tony

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  5 Jan 96 10:29:23 EST
Subject: re:Defender Quest for more heat

ray harder (61 siia -- 88 (lulu)) says:

>the rednecks here in midwest usa (me included) use a cut-to-fit 
>piece of cardboard -- somehow stuffed into a crack on the valence
>and held in by the force of oncomming wind.  looks quite studly and
>really makes a difference....

It's only studly if you use the bottom of a Bdweiser case - with the can 
indentations to the outside... 8*)

Actually, I'm in the process of sewing one for my 109. It's going to be made of 
NATO-camouflage
denim - quite he survivalist chic...

And with that a question, while I'm wasting bandwidth:

I was planning on mounting snaps on the grille for the muff to snap to. Any 
good ideas on how? I really don't care for the look of the wing bolts ha 
Kingsury and thelike use, and was thinking of simple double-washers with a bolt 
through the snap.

     opinions?

   aj"Pardon the tpos - hands are stiff today"r

 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 10:47:13 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: 7:1 or 8:1 head - any performance difference?

On Fri, 5 Jan 1996 TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com wrote:

> On the other hand, the lower the compression, the lower the octane needed to
> run an engine safely.  The 7:1 head was offered to allow the Land Rover to be
> used in countries with poor quality petrol.

	My owners manual says that the engine is good down to 63 octane.

------------------------------

From: JEPurnell@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 11:00:34 -0500
Subject: Re: RN Offroad School

In a message dated 96-01-02 20:21:28 EST, you write:
From:	allen@dsr.com (David Allen)
John: I took 2 days worth of instruction from Rovers North last October and
was very pleased with the training. I used a Red D90 that they had, and even
got some training on various types of winching. One real benefit to training
in Vermont is that they have access to some of the gooiest mud perhaps in
the entire country. This made hill climbing especially challenging.

======================================================================
thanks David.  If I remember right, the red D90 there had the Dakar stroker
kit.  Raised the 3.9 to 4.5 or so? They claimed it really up'd the torque.
 They towed a Discovery on a trailer from Vermont to Baja awith that and got
about 6 MPG.  Claimed going at 80 mph most of the way, foot all the way in.
 Then they sunk it above the ECU in water, and it wouldn't start.  ECU fried.
 

Sounds like you learned from the experience.  That is exactly what I'd like
to do.  learn with some experience sitting beside me.  I'm starting to look
at traversing front yards  as real "off road" challenges... ha ha.  

JOhn.
94 D90, Wisconsin.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Jan 1996 08:33:03 -0800
From: Christopher Boese <cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Salesmen

Wdcockey@aol.com wrote:
 
> Just a thought. Both our SII's were originally purchased by professionals
> with good incomes who used thame as second vehicles and never took them
> off-road seriously.
> Do I detect a similarity to many current Discovery and RR owners.

Not with me. I have only the one plushmobile, and I go off-road whenever I can.
I work for government, so my income is less-than-yuppie-ish, but I wanted the best
vehicle money could (be borrowed to) buy.

-- 

Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office
'95 beluga black Discovery V8i

------------------------------

From: JEPurnell@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 12:07:06 -0500
Subject: Re: That murdererous letch, Ventura. . . 

In a message dated 96-01-05 03:54:01 EST, you write:

>Am I the only one who mourns the death of LR's or are there
>others like me who suffer such mental torture.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>Bye for now, keep up the damn good list.
>Stu and EMMA ( a  '76 SWB Ser III V8- Love of my life)

I'm with you on this one Stu.  After spending 8 years in the "service" side
of Hollywood, finding cars for movies, fixing whatever broke during shoots,
etc..., the movie people obviously do not care about the impact of wrecking
limited availability vehicles.  In fact it has the aura of "big Movie-dom" if
you can get in the budget to wreck expensive, fancy, or rare stuff.  The only
benefit I ever saw, other than a paycheck, was once in awhile getting ahold
of a carcass after they were through with it.  I trailered an old Corvette
away one day and never had to return with it.  I parted it out, as it would
have required a SALVAGE title after what they did to it.  Never saw any LRs
though.  So maybe it's only gonna be Ventura that wrecks them.  Lets hope the
practice doesn't spread...

Is it any consolation Stu if it turns out to be true that the LRs they
wrecked were not approved by USEPA to be operated on USEPA approved roads
stateside, or EEC-EPA for use EEC-side (is that possible?), so their demise
will not realistically affect your ability to maintain your vehicle?  

Didn't think so. 

sorry.
John.

------------------------------

From: ChrisF6724@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 13:01:13 -0500
Subject: Testing

This is just a test to see if this is where I post. 
Thanks, Chris
'73 88 Series 3

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 96 14:40:38 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: Test

Hello all,
Just a test to see if my attempt at LR art comes thru. (Hey it's Friday!)

Cheers,
Barnett (95 Def90)
	 _______<|
        |===/|=\=|
     /=\|__/_|__\|====\ 
     |=||====|===|=====|
     \=/| __ |   | __  |()
        \/  \|___|/  \/
	 (::)     (::)		
(We don't need no stinkin' roads!) 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 14:47:13 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: That murdererous letch, Ventura. . . 

On Fri, 5 Jan 1996 JEPurnell@aol.com wrote:

> etc..., the movie people obviously do not care about the impact of wrecking
> limited availability vehicles.  In fact it has the aura of "big Movie-dom" if
> you can get in the budget to wreck expensive, fancy, or rare stuff.  

	There is the off-side to consider.  One movie where generally someone
	adds up the value of the vehicles destroyed is the Mini cult film
	"The Italian Job".  The Lamborghini destroyed in the beginning of
	the film was real (albeit if you look closely the one dumped 
	into the river gorge is missing engine tranny etc) because they
	costed out a mock-up.  The real was far cheaper.  So an E-type or two
	was crushed.  They may be valuable now, but as recently as 12 years
	ago I could pick one up from a wreckers fro a couple thousand dollars.
	Many times, the vehicles destroyed are not worth much in the 
	first place.  Just like the 88's destroyed in Ace Ventura.  The 
	cost of restoring the 88's just didn't make it feasible.  You 
	basically have to build an entire vehicle.  They did make a lot
	of Land Rovers in the past...  You can't apply "rare" to a corvette,
	and the movie industry isn't going to bother with the truely rare 
	vehicles because the audience just won't know what it is.  Only if
	the audience will say "ooohhhh, rare!" will they go and destroy
	something like that.  They are interested in bottom line only.  
	Besides, they did buy the vehicle.  If they want to let it sit and
	rot, or blow it up, it is their perogative.  I can think of a
	LR prototype nearby rotting away.  A real shame, but I nor anyone
	else owns it & the owner will not sell.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Jan 96 15:08:09 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: looking for 109

     Hi everybody. Couple of items here:
     
     First off, anybody east of the Mississippi selling a 109 SW? Condition 
     is relatively unimportant but decent body panels would be nice. A 
     local guy here needs it for a frame-over and doesn't have net access 
     so I volunteered to post it for 'im. Any leads appreciated.
     
     2nd. Has anybody a method of removing a "brand new" reservoir from a 
     split system brake master cylinder. (Don't ask) I understand the old 
     ones usually break and the owner in this case doesn't want to buy 
     *another* one. 
     
     3. Its unfair this LRW thing, now that you all know what I look like, 
     I can't say mean things or write smart-ass responses to your sincere 
     questions.
     
     4. Dixon K.- The answer to the question raised in our conversation 
     today is that the Serial # does begin with 259, as does the Serial # 
     on another local Series 3 that is still owned by its original owner. 
     His ends with 8 something something and mine ends with 5 something 
     something, both followed by the letter A. He bought his in October'72, 
     and it was released by the factory in May '72, and as far as he knows, 
     his dealer picked it up at the dock in complete form. He also thinks 
     it's unlikely that many CKD's were shipped here new. So what gives? 
     Could it be (gasp) that there is incorrect info on the FAQ? Possibly 
     just something overlooked, I would imagine, an honest mistake, right? 
     Mike Carradine please no comments, Thank You.
     
     5. Hi Ron. I know you're lurking out there. Everyone say hi to Ron 
     please. One of the founding members of the Burleith LRC.
     
     All help is welcome and guaranteed to not evoke wise-cracks or other 
     nasty reactions from me.
     
     Regards
     Dave "Internationally Known" Bobeck
     SIII SWB "Green Car" (now with IIa Grill) 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 15:41:42 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: looking for 109

On Fri, 5 Jan 1996, Bobeck, David R. wrote:

>      4. Dixon K.- The answer to the question raised in our conversation 
>      today is that the Serial # does begin with 259, as does the Serial # 
>      on another local Series 3 that is still owned by its original owner. 

	925 prefix is CKD.  You were unsure which the prefix was.  

>      his dealer picked it up at the dock in complete form. He also thinks 
>      it's unlikely that many CKD's were shipped here new. So what gives? 

	With LR, who knows what was shipped where.  Taylor in his little
	history project has found all sorts of anomolies.

>      Could it be (gasp) that there is incorrect info on the FAQ? Possibly 
>      just something overlooked, I would imagine, an honest mistake, right? 

	I don't think 259 is in there.  Have to check.  An oversight... :-)

>      Dave "Internationally Known" Bobeck
>      SIII SWB "Green Car" (now with IIa Grill) 

	So you figure that the metal grille will slow down the toppling
	jack-all better than the plastic one managed?  :-)

	Rgds,

------------------------------

From: "Tom Walsh" <tomw@netcom.com>
Date:          Thu, 4 Jan 1996 13:38:40 +0000
Subject:       EMU shocks/springs/DISCO's/D90's

Does anyone out there have any experience with old man Emu shocks and 
springs for a Disco? I am contemplating purchasing them very soon.
I am trying to increase the heigth a tad so I may put on slightly 
larger more aggressive Mud Terrain type tires ( and get a little 
extra clearance at the same time )

What I'd like to know:

How hard was it to install em.
How does it affect ride quality ( both on and off road )
     I beleive it will give a stiffer ride, but does this equate
     to a jeep like bone jarring ride when in the rough? I use the 
     Vehicle on road to do long trips occasionally, will I be sorry?
How does it affect wheel travel ( does the stiffness reduce the
     the Disco's generous wheel travel capability ? )

In other words: SHould I do it??? or Not???

Thanks in advance!

Tomw
---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*
                       Fluent Networks
             "Intelligent Networking Solutions"
Tom Walsh
tomw@netcom.com soon to be tomw@fluentnet.com
95 LR Disco "The Green Monster"
#include <std_disclaim.h>
*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Jan 1996 16:41:47 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: Looking for 109

Dave,
     
>      First off, anybody east of the Mississippi selling a 109 SW? Condition 
>      is relatively unimportant but decent body panels would be nice. A 
>      local guy here needs it for a frame-over and doesn't have net access 
>      so I volunteered to post it for 'im. Any leads appreciated.

    I'm in Charlottesville, VA, and would still consider giving up my
    109 SW that could generously be described as being "in kit form" 
    (It does look like a complete vehicle from the outside, and does
    roll...)

    It was going to be my low-initial-cost entry into owning a 109SW,
    which I simply couldn't afford to do by starting with a complete
    running vehicle.  There's a bunch of stuff missing, but it's a
    complete rebuildable vehicle with valid title, and for 109SW's
    that's getting harder to find!  (Shameless plug to make you want
    this vehicle more!  But it really is true...)

    Problem is, I've really hit the financial skids.  I might just be
    able to stay out of the poorhouse without selling this thing off (so
    I haven't been real active in hawking it), but it's clear that it
    will literally be YEARS before I can even consider dumping more
    money into fixing it up.  So it just sits.

    I have about $1250 into it at this point.  I'd love to get that much
    back out again if I could, but I'm open to offers.

    I can be reached at home at 804-973-1369 or at work M-F at
    804-978-5036

    Duncan "at least I still have the 88" Brown

------------------------------

From: DucNut@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 16:44:50 -0500
Subject: Disco ABS

Recently Mark Kraieski (hope the spelling is close :-{) ) writes re the
above.  I have place a call to LRNA engineering dept. ( a client of mine
recently bought a near new
county classic RR from him).

In reviewing my Disco's window sticker (a '94) it specifies 4 channel ABS.
 It seems to me that the recent posting re a potentially unstable vehicle if
the tires with greater grip are allowed to brake with full power sounds
right.  Incidentally, we've had our share of icy intersections lately and it
seems to me that at least at slow speeds a little swiggle of the steering
wheel helps to slow the vehicle even in ABS mode.

Guilty of lurking too long...
                                        Keith Armstrong  Des Moines, IA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Jan 96 16:53:39 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: 7:1 or 8:1 head - any performance difference?

To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

All,

On the subject of head swaps and performance (not LR unfortunately).

I swapped a standard Austin mini head with a CR of about 8.5 (if my   
memory serves me well) for a head with a CR of 11 (or there abouts).  The   
performance differences was exceptional.

The downside though.  It must have stressed the engine as 6 - 8 months   
later the engine expired. (Live fast, die young as someone once said).

I was reading something about this last night actually. In the late sixties 
(this is for real now) alot of American cars particularly those of the muscular 
variety were made with high compression heads so they could really get the most 
power out of the then available 100+ octane gasoline(petrol). The lead in the 
gas was one thing that helped boost the octane rating. So what happens when you 
try to burn new, lower octane gas in the same high CR engine is that you end up 
with knock (I think) which is esssentially gas that gets so hot (from 
compression) that it creates a second ignition inside your cylinder. This plays 
all sorts of havoc with moving parts inside the engine, as well as rings and 
probably other stuff too. So maybe that's what happened. Most cars today have a 
CR of 9:or lower, and if you still have that 11:1 65 Chevy Malibu or whatever 
then you should use a lead additive or some kind of octane booster to keep your 
engine from wrecking itself. YMMV.

Dave

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 14:11:08 -0800
Subject: Pewag chains

Howdy,

Some time ago there was discussion of chains for various LRs and some folks
mentioned that Pewag chains were reputable so I took the liberty of dropping
over to the Pewag West coast office which is here in thriving Newcastle Ca. I
picked up a catalog and talked with the guy briefly. There are two locations
for Pewag in the US, one here and the other in Chicago area. Apparently, the
Newcastle location deals primarily in auto chain while the midwest location
deals more in industrial chain. They also do quite a business in the
overhead, lifting etc stuff. The factory is in Europe (Switzerland, I
believe). I don't have costs because the catalog doesn't specify them: one
would have to call them for quotes, but the catalog has parts. The manager
didn't know specifically about the fittings for any of the LR products (gee,
I don't understand that!!!).

The western office can be reached at 1-800-445-2895 while the eastern office
can be reached at 1-800-526-3924. The manager indicated that they will do
retail direct. Unfortunately, I didn't see any chains or cables for 235/60/16
(but then don't count on me to read all the numbers correctly, chains are a
new concept to me :>)

Hope that helps!!

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 96 22:49:48 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: Polybushes for RR

Any coil sprung land Rover owners fitted the poly bush kit ? My 88 RR is in 
need of bushing job at the front and I was wondering what you lot thought of 
them, or see if anyone had fitted them ?

Mark

------------------------------

From: ChrisF6724@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 19:53:44 -0500
Subject: Engine Swaps?

If your a "Purist", stop reading this message now, because your likely going
to be offended.  I reciently just purchase a '73 Land Rover Series 3, 88 with
a bad engine (I haven't started calling it "The Blue Fog" for nothin ;) ).
 Now for the offensive part (or was that it?)...  I'm going to swap in a late
model, built, fuel injected Chevy V6 (approx 220+h.p.).  Also being replaced
will be the transmittion to a 4 speed automatic, and transfer case (unknown
type at this point, but probally a Dana300).  This is about where my current
funding runs out.... This car will be used as a daily driver and see some of
the toughest trails (and highway passes) Colorado has to offer. (it will also
be a bonus to be able to keep up with traffic on the mountain interstates
when the speed limit goes up...not to mention the lifting of the
international driveway parking ban impossed on the Rover for oil stains)
  Now for the big question...  Will the stock axles and diff's explode the
minute I touch the accelerator?  My IH Scout used to shear off the
driveshafts before the axles snapped.

My future plans include ARB's front and rear (ie...  I don't want to invest
the cash if the stock diff's shred because of my extra power...)    
Has anyone tried to convert to disk brakes on the front?

To answer someones previous post...Mark's in Australia handles conversion
kits (sold in the US by Advance Adapters and on the internet), however, they
are for Holden (I think that's "Ford" in Americaneze) and are expensive.
($800 for adapter to mate Ford C4 to stock transfer case (which I don't think
will take much more power))
Scottie's in the US offers Chevy conversion kits (though I haven't contacted
them yet)....Or you can weld new mounts and replace it all like I plan on
doing.  I've heard it is highly recommend swapping the transmittion (at least
the 4 spd. in Series 3's) if your going to boost your power much.

Chris Fisher
'73 88 Series 3 (the Blue Fog)

------------------------------

From: Landy88@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 22:01:51 -0500
Subject: PROPANE SPECS

After working in the Propane industry for several years, I remember this:
(approximates)

Freezing is not your problem with propane.  A good liquid is no good either.
 Small propane appliances use the vapor.  Unlike gasoline, the vapor must be
fed into the appliance.  Gas can vaporize as it burns.  

Since propane appliances are regulated (pressure, not governmental), the
vapor must travel to the regulator.  Most appliances use a 10" WC pressure
level, which is produced at about -30F to -36F.  Shouldn't be a real problem
though.  All you need to do is get the tank pretty warm and keep it
insulated....Just remember, propane tanks have no heat producing capacity, so
insulation only holds in heat YOU APPLY.  Is the tank to be inside the cabin?
 (Not legal in some places).  If so, just wrap it up.  Maybe a battery
blanket you turn on ten minutes before firing off the vehicle.....could be
set on a timer....Just get the propane up to -30F or better....should be
good.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 22:48:00 -0500 (EST)
From: jonny@hookup.net (Jonathan M. Rosenthal)
Subject: Discovery-Stuck in the Snow

I recently was stuck in a snow bank in my discover.  The right front wheel
was slightly in the air.  No matter what gear or range I was in only the
right front tire and the left rear tire spun.

Is there a problem with my vehicle??

Any comments or help would be greatlly appreciated.

------------------------------

From: WAHORN@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 23:10:03 -0500
Subject: SWAP MEET

JIM & LRO,
   SIGN ME UP FOR THE RALLY & OR SWAP MEET  IN LAKE CITY FL.
I LIVE IN MIDDLEBURG FL. NEAR JACKSONVILLE FL.

ASHLEY HORN
67 109 SW

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Discovery-Stuck in the Snow
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 96 20:21:40 PST

That is how it works. With the center dif locked and one front and
one rear wheel spinning, you are stuck.
One way to hopfully get unstuck is to spin the wheels faster than
5 mph, and apply the abs brakes. This is hard on the truck,
but it can get you unstuck. If you are only digging in deeper
quit, and start shoveling.

Russ Burns
91 R-Rover
94 D-90
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Is there a problem with my vehicle??
> Any comments or help would be greatlly appreciated.

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: PROPANE SPECS
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 96 20:33:07 PST

I just carry a white gas single burner camp stove. I have used it
for starting cold cars for 15 years or so. Seems when I was going
to college 50W oil was always on sale during the winter. Having a VW
bug with a severe oil leak, cheap  50w oil was very inviting.
One night when the temp hit -25F the oil turned into a brick.
My first attempt was to drain the oil into a pan, and warm in a cabin.
This was futile as the oil was a neat hard jell.
I then fired up the camp stove, and placed it under the VW motor.
This worked better than expected as the oily crude on the bottem of the 
engine also started on fire. Careful fire managment not only warmed
up the oil, but cleaned the crude of the bottom of the engine.

Russ Burns
91 R-Rover
94 D-90

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 20:38:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Misc.

1- All NAS Discos have had 4-channel ABS since launch in 1994.

2- A shame that the Jeep took 4-wheeler of the year. It is arguably inferior 
to any Discovery extant. I suspect that objectivity notwithstanding, Four 
Wheeler magazine would have been castrated had they awarded their award to 
Land Rover for a third consecutive year! It's a delicate balance. Land Rover 
should be proud to win not only two in a row, but three within 7 years!! Such 
a small company. So much competition. The only thing even worse (in segment) 
is the *newstyle* Explorer. In a recent competitive shootout sales training 
seminar - the vehicles compo'd w/Disco included 
Jeep/Ford/Isuzu/Honda/Mitsui/Toyo. A test track was set up for this test. The 
Ford couldn't even make it ON to the course!! Had to be yanked back. Pitiful 
ground clearance was given the blame. Ground clearance even worse than the 
already bad earlier model. Reason? New front suspension setup and steering 
system. Why? Marketing? They tried. Real reason is that airbag dashboard would 
not fit with earlier (and better - even though still pitiful) setup.

3- An interesting footnote from BSROA member Chris Hurley. He drove is SE-7 
stick to the local Humvee dealership (Smyly Buick!!). They apparently pretty 
amazing off-road course setup. At the crest of a stupidly steep incline was a 
concrete barrier - designed to bottom out anything except the Hummer. Chris 
asked them to let the Disco try at least up to the barrier. He crawled up it 
and stopped in front of the barrier. The people there were stunned. 
Comfortable and fast too! Salesperson there stated that Disco was the only 
other sport utility that made it that far without a running start! 

4- LRNA has exceeded its goal of 20,000 Land Rover retails for 1995! NA 
continues to be the largest export market for LR! That's a lot of Land Rovers. 
New England's deluge of snow in recent weeks has heightened demand for new and 
used vehicles. 

5- Range Rover Classics are fast-approaching extinction. There are precious 
few in dealer inventory. No more are incoming to NA. It is getting to be a 
similar situation to Defender 90 - almost impossible to find. New or used. 
Demand for Classic Range Rover (predictably) is soaring. Procrastinators will 
soon be unable to find a Classic new or even demo model. People trying to find 
D90s, especially softtops may find that it's too late. Dealers that still have 
any unsold units are not swapping them with our dealership.

cheerz
Jim - where the heck have all the Rovers gone?

`67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (#457/500)
`95 D90 

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 20:48:27 -0800
Subject: Re: Discovery-Stuck in the Snow

> I recently was stuck in a snow bank in my discover.  The right front wheel
> was slightly in the air.  No matter what gear or range I was in only the
> right front tire and the left rear tire spun.
> Is there a problem with my vehicle??

I assume this is a serious question... right?

A differiential is a device that not only turns the rotating power 90 degrees
but it applies differiantial power to the axles.  On a corner, one tyre turns
faster than the other,  The Diff is designed to apply  power to the side that
has less resistance on a corner, the outside wheel, so that the inside wheel
isn't trying to break the axle & bouncing about trying to turn in place.

When a tyre looses traction, the diff thinks that tyre is the outside tyre on
a corner & all the energy from the drive shaft is fed to the spinning tyre.
  So all it takes is one spinning tyre on the front & one on the back to stop
a 4X4 dead in its tracks.

You can get two toys to combat this:

Limited slip Diff. -   This does not allow all the energy to go to just one
axle, but always has a limited amount going to the one with the highest
resistance.  British Pacific just started carrying  a new limited slip diff.

lockers -  This locks the diff so an equal amount of energy goes to each
wheel whenever the diff is locked.  When its unlocked, the diff acts
normally.  You can normally lock & unlock it from the drivers seat.  You
don't want to be turning circles on hard surfaces whith the diff locked if
you value your diff & axles.  ARB makes a locker currently in vogue.

Many people put lockers or limited slip diffs at both ends.  This gives you
the very best traction.  If you upgrade just one end, which you do is
optional, but people seem to like putting lockers on the front & I think the
rear is the favorate spot for a single limited slip diff.

Still assuming that this was a serious question,

TeriAnn

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 20:54:31 -0800
Subject: Re: Discovery-Stuck in the Snow

----------------------------- Begin Original Text
-----------------------------

One way to hopfully get unstuck is to spin the wheels faster than
5 mph, and apply the abs brakes. This is hard on the truck,
but it can get you unstuck. If you are only digging in deeper
quit, and start shoveling.

Russ Burns
91 R-Rover
94 D-90
----------------------------- End Original Text -----------------------------
For those of us poor series owners without ABS, lockers or limited slip
diffs, its time to put something under the slipping wheels to help give them
traction, or to spool out the winch.

Or on the other hand, get on the cellular phone & call AAA towing

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Jan 1996 00:13:52 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Pull pals

Barnett Childress asks about Pull-Pals.  While I have not used one, we gave 
one away as a prize at last year's Mid-Atlantic Rally.  The chap who won it 
used it *four* times in the next month.

Anyway, it is a well-made device, available in several sizes (i.e., 
weights).  Functions kinda like a CQR or Bruce anchor if you're into 
sailing.  The only time he said it has trouble 'setting' is in real loose sand.

        "The right tool for the right job." 
                                         -Mr. Natural

Great...4-12" of snow forecast, and the rear frame still hasn't been welded 
back on....
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Jan 1996 00:13:56 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Heaters and not

Following the thread on auxillary heaters, many years ago (before I fitted 
the block and battery heaters) I was skiing in northern Vermont and it 
dropped to -40 overnight.  *Everything* solidified.  Not even a peep out of 
the battery.  Gearbox was so solid, I couldn't shift out of second.  (Moral: 
park in neutral).  A guy who parked his pickup in a heated garage dragged me 
1/3 mile before the wheels started turning.  By 1/2 mile, it fired.  I drove 
to town and bought a block heater.  On another trip to the same ski area 
(this time it was only -35 but blowing 40 mph) the gearshift broke due to 
the extreme cold...but that's another story.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: BDaviscar@aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 1996 00:54:16 -0500
Subject: Unsicking a engine 101

Bill Adams asked:

In a message dated 96-01-04 21:49:40 EST,

I'd like to hear about that 
transmission and how you "unstuck" the engine! A Series owner can't be 
bothered by such trivialities as a fuel gauge

Ok here is how we ( My brother and I) unstuck the motor.(we used a product
called Kroil.) We started by removing the spark plugs and shot Kroil.into the
cylinders 
left it sit for a week checked it with the hand crank ( with me on the end of
it jumping up and down.) it did not move. More Kroil in the cylinders and let
it sit another week. ( We could only work weekends on it.) Tested it Again
and still no movement. So we got inventive we made a air fitting that treaded
into the spark plug hole. Put that in the spark plug hole of the cylinder
closest to tdc  unadjusted all the valves and put 175lbs in that cylinder.
Then with the air in and me standing on the crank again, it  moved. Turned it
through a few times buy "hand", then on the starter. Reset the valves.After a
pressure testing of all four cylinders and getting 125-130 psi.  We tried to
start it and did. The fuel tank at this point was a 2 gal. gas can.(so no
sender problems) The trans was something else. With the detents removedwe
tried to use a crow bar on the sift fork to move it,  We tried every thing we
could think of to move it out of 1st gear with no luck. But after the engine
was started running it came out on its own. (I think it just wanted to hit
the road again.) But we still had to replace it as it would not go into 3rd
or 4th. one out of two is not bad after a 15 year retirerment. It has been a
long fight but it is fun to make something "live" again.

THe  replacement trans is having a problem down shifting from 4th to 3rd
anyone have an idea about why?  It was not a rebuilt trans but was a "working
trans when it was removed from a 66 109.

Thanks for asking.

Bruce
67 SIIA 88 Patches)

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Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.