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Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 10:07:20 +0000 (WET)
From: Peter Venters <venters@atm.ox.ac.uk>
Subject: Gearbox whine

Steve,

For what its worth, I had a very similar complaint in my gearbox (SIIA 
box with Perkins 4.182 driving it). On removing the box, I found that the 
input shaft was very rough to turn by hand; it felt very much as if 
either the input shaft bearing or the gears driving the layshaft were 
seriously damaged. I was amazed that it would still work. I did not 
investigate further but fitted a reconditioned box. This has so far not 
given any problems (but has not been fitted for very many miles).

Good luck,

Peter

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jan 1996 05:38:38 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>
Subject: Wading

Hi, I have the same problem with filling halogen headlamps up with muddy
water. In the past I have had to remove them and clean then with some
fairy liquid and an old tooth brush. Careful on the reflector though! I
have never had trouble with bulbs after doing this.
  
I have seen a rubber cover for the back of headlamps which may work. I
don't know where to get them from though. Sealing the bulb aperture
with silicone is probably not a good idea as the bulbs get so hot.
  
The easiest solution is to fit my old sealed beams, which have the same
connector on the back as the halogens (but this may not be normal)
whilst I am playing.
  
I put a bead of grease around the base of my distributor cap then spray
grease (like WD40 but much thicker) on the HT leads. I have had the
engine running in deep enough water to suck an air filter full on my old
2.25 (can anybody guess why I fitted a new engine after that?). It
didn't quite hydraulic but it was never the same again.
  
I still remember stopping at the side of the motorway on my way home
because suddenly it wouldn't go over 35 MPH and cleaning the mud out of
the carb!
  
Some day I may go for a snorkel for the piece of mind, but it would
have to be home made for a V6 lightweight.
  
Then I would need a snorkel for the driver...
  
Happy wading, Steve
  
Steve Reddock                         Product Evaluation, 26/12
Xyratex                  Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450  Int.721-4450
REDDOCK at HVTVM         Internet: Steve_Reddock@UK.XYRATEX.COM

------------------------------

From: BDaviscar@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 07:37:31 -0500
Subject: The Magic genie oil 

Hi All

I have a product that is worth its weight in gold. It is called Kroil and
puts most of the other penitrating oils to shame. It helped my brother and I
to free my engine and I did not have to take it a part.

The only thing is you can get it in the store you have to get it from the
manufacturer
so here it is Kano Laboratories  in Nashiville, Tenn  phone # 615-833-4101
this stuff has helped me get nuts off that have been on out side for 15
years.

It is great!!!

Bruce
67 SIIA 88
Patches

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 07:47:35 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Electrical problems with 1967 109" NADA

 Wes Newman asks:
Snip
> I know there's a short but how do I find it.

Wes,
Depending on the symptoms, it could be much simpler. A bad charging 
system. That's what I'd check first. Then the true condidtion of the 
battery, it may not be able to hold a charge.

If they check ok, then pull one of the battery cables and see if you 
get a spark when you touch it back to the battery post. You 
shouldn't, unless you have something that draws current all the time, 
like a voltmeter. Nothing stock on the '67 NADA does. (Are your 
heated windscreen switches in the off position?)

If not spark, then get out the wiring diagram and see what is 
energized with the switch on. Disconnect things like your oil light, 
and coil, turn on the ignition switch and see if you get a spark on 
the battery post.  If not, add back the fuses one at a time, checking 
for a spark after each.  Oh, make sure your battery is charged when 
you start.

That's the general proceedure I'd use. Process of elimination. 
Good luck. Maybe some others can offer better suggestions.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 07:55:00 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Auxiliary Heaters for anything.

Dixon writes
> 	Doesn't JC Whitless have a propane power inline heater available?
 	Not cheap, but an idea.  If there was a reasonably priced heater
 	to heat the engine that did not require electricity, I and a couple
 	others might be interested if shown to work.  If the heater requires
 	electricity, they are useless unless their is power at the 
 	destination.  (see how well a 109 starts after sitting all day at 
 	-20c while you are at work & there are no plug ins.)
> 	Doesn't JC Whitless have a propane power inline heater available?
Dixon,
Zeor Start makes two propane powered thermo siphon engine heaters. 
If I remember the smaller of the two is about 5,000 
(or was it 500? damn)Btu and about 3" dia and about 7-8" long. Comes 
with everything to mount it except the propane tank. 

I had my Zero Start catalog out the other day, I'll try to remember 
to get the PN. 
If you're seriously interested in one, I used to have an account with 
them. I may be able to get you a better price than the local auto 
parts house.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Mark.Kraieski@mailport.delta-air.com
Date: 4 Jan 96 08:23:08 -0500
Subject: Disco ABS Effectiveness

I had some opportunity over the holiday to play with the Disco's brakes on 
icy surfaces. In situations where all 4 wheels were on ice, they seemed to 
do a decent job. But in split mu tests, where one side of the vehicle was on 
ice and the other wasn't, the results were dissappointing. The ABS appeared 
to modulate both sides when the low traction side started to lock. Stopping 
distances were very long, regardless of pedal pressure or technique and I 
never felt that braking force on the high traction side came anywhere close 
to that available.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Does the Disco use 4, 3 or 2 channel detection/modulation?

Mark Kraieski

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 07:58:14 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Auxiliary Heaters for anything.

Russ  writes:
> I have an old VW gas heater I am going to install on my D-90 someday.
 With the fuel presure from the EFI, I could probably turn the Damn thing
 into a jet engine....
> I have an old VW gas heater I am going to install on my D-90 someday.
Russ,
I VW mechanic told me some years back that quite a few VW's went up in 
flames from those. Not to put a damper on your optimism or anything. 
Of course that didn't stop me from looking for one for my bus. Be 
careful.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 09:07:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Electrical problems with 1967 109" NADA
From: "Andrew A. Dallas" <adallas@systemsoft.com>

>Need help....
>I need to find a short...I think.  Tried to start my 1967 109 the  
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>when I needed to go.... th battery was completely dead again.  
>I know there's a short but how do I find it.

Sounds to me like your alternator is undercharging. Perhaps the voltage 
regulator (which is probably built into the unit) is bad.
-AD

*************************************************
            Andrew A. Dallas
            Full Spectrum Software
            360 Market St.
            Suite 18
            Brighton, MA 02135
            (617) 782-9829
            on-site office: (508) 647-2948
            adallas@tiac.net
            http://www.tiac.net/users/adallas/
*************************************************

------------------------------

From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 09:25:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Disco ABS Effectiveness

On  4 Jan 96 at 8:23, Mark.Kraieski@mailport.delta- wrote:
> I had some opportunity over the holiday to play with the Disco's brakes on 
> icy surfaces. In situations where all 4 wheels were on ice, they seemed to 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> never felt that braking force on the high traction side came anywhere close 
> to that available.

I think the 95 had less than 4 channels (is 3 possible?) and the 96 
has 4 channel ABS. I found (on a 96 Disco) that stopping with the 
right wheels on snow and the left on almost snow free pavement that 
the ABS worked very well.  

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 06:35:48 -0800
Subject: Re: fuel to burn?

You have a series IIA guage and a series III sender unit on the petrol tank.
 The sender units on a series II and a series III are wound in oposit
directions.

You can take one of two cures

1.  Put a IIA sender unit on the tank (from your old tank?).  This will bring
it back into stock.  Don't forget a new gasket & fiber washers on the
mounting screws to keep petrol from leaking out the top.

2. Put a series III guage or the guage from about any other British car in
your series IIA.  The series II sender unit is wound oposit just about
everything else the British made.

The second solution is the one I took because I went to multiple fuel tanks &
guages and wanted the guages to look alike.

I removed the large multiple guage and replaced it with matched Smith fuel
guages, a Lucas Amp meter and Lucas Volt meter on small double IIA guage
panels.  I put a MGB tach in the big hole.  1967 & earlier works for Pos
earth, 1968 and later for Neg earth Land Rovers.

The MGB tach gives me a large easly readable tach that looks like it came on
the car from the factory, and the  seperate smaller guages on Rover panels
not only maintain the  "look" but are easler to read and tell me what I have
in each front tank.  I have not yet decided if adding a third fuel guage for
the new rear tank is just one too many guage or not.  My 109 two door has a
petrol tank under each front seat and a rear tank.

TeriAnn

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 09:58:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Disco ABS Effectiveness

Mark Kraieski states:

But in split mu tests, where one side of the vehicle was on 
ice and the other wasn't, the results were dissappointing. The ABS appeared 
to modulate both sides when the low traction side started to lock. Stopping 
distances were very long, regardless of pedal pressure or technique and I 
never felt that braking force on the high traction side came anywhere close 
to that available.

This may not be entirely correct, but my understanding is that ABS work by
releasing braking force when the wheel's linear velocity does not match with
what would be expected from the angular velocity, that is, if the tire slides
across the ground faster than would be expected by its rotational speed, the
ABS lessens the braking force.  If two wheels are on ice and two on dry
pavement, even though the dry pavement wheels COULD stop faster, to do so
would put one into a sideways slide ( the icy wheels continuing along with
their inertial velocity).  The ABS senses this and decreases the braking
force.  Proponents state that the decrease in braking force is more than
offset by the improved control.  (Some promo tapes show some pretty amazing
feats of steering accuracy on icy courses). The various systems are designed
to detect this discrepency at different levels of sensitivity in various
conditions. 

Again, this may not be entirely accurate, but is what a couple of auto
dealers explained to me when I asked the same question.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 07:20:45 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Auxiliary Heaters for anything.

Doesn't Propane freeze at some ungodly Canadian Temperature?
Or am I confused with butane.
Russ

At 07:55 AM 1/4/96 -0600, Tom Rowe wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Dixon writes
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 39 lines)]
> Four wheel drive allows you to get
> stuck in places even more inaccessible.
Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 10:25:41 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: SII engine oddities

Dear All,
        A question was emailed to me about SII petrol engines, thought I'd
share the reply for anyone about to start a rebuild on a SII engine.
        Some of the SII engines had a 2.5 inch main bearings, the engines
also had the following differences from the newer 2.25 SIIA units.
        Connecting rods are different, due to the crank size.
        The crank and its caps obviously
        The oil dip stick and tube
        The rear main seal and its two retainers
        The exhaust manifold, sometimes
        The down facing tube that heads for the water pump off the
thermostat housing is a different casting.
        The front cover and the water pump
        The questions was what else would he have to worry about in the
rebuild. The oil tube and dip stick, the rear main seal (Rovers North sells
a conversion kit with new retainers and the new style seal to solve this
problem), and having good con. rods and crank that can be machined, the
rest can be updated to the new engines stuff.
Hope this helps someone, good luck with the rebuild Jim.

Mike Smith, ECR

------------------------------

Date: 04 Jan 96 10:37:38 EST
From: Lars Rosenmeier <100670.3705@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re:Auxiliary Heater for anything

Hi all,
I am new to this list and my name is Lars and i live in Denmark. I am sorry to
say that i am not a Land Rover owner at the moment, but i have owned a Range
Rover turbo diesel from 87 to 91 and my father drives a conistan green '96 Land
Rover Discovery V8i 4dr. with 7x16 steel wheels and without the usual
plushmobile extras such as: twin sunroofs, A/C, CD-player, wood panels etc. 
What i actually wanted to tell you was that i have been using an ARDIC engine
and cabine heater in my car for the last 3 years and it is my experience that a
petrol (or diesel) fuelled engine heater is the top priority add on, if you live
in areas where it gets cold in winter. I use it to preheat the engine and
defrosting the cabin and when the weather is very cold i have it turned on for
the first 10 min. or so while driving. I even use mine in summer evenings to
preheat the engine if the temperature drops below 10 degrees C. I bought the
Ardic heater because it was made in Sweden by Volvo Flygmotor and because it
looked well made in polished stainless steel. As far as i know Eberspaecher,
Webasto, Ardic and Bacho make these heaters in both petrol and diesel fuelled
versions, some even with remote control. They may seem expensive, but remember
that you can always remove it before selling your car and then reinstall it in
your new car.
BTW i heard that one of the above mentioned companies are bringing a new cheaper
model on the market with a price in the area of 700 USD.

	Lars

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 10:35:09 -0400
From: jim@kidd.com (jnk)
Subject: Possible Rally in FL

Hello Everyone,

My father (Nick Karantinos) and a friend (Burt Godwin) are considering
putting together a Rally/Swap Meet in April/May 1996. We are located in
Lake City, FL (North Florida between Jacksonville and Tallahassee) and the
Osceola National Forest is nearby with some excellent trails.

Is there any interest?

Jim Karantinos

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 10:47:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Auxiliary Heaters for anything.

On Thu, 4 Jan 1996, Tom Rowe wrote:

> Zeor Start makes two propane powered thermo siphon engine heaters. 
> If I remember the smaller of the two is about 5,000 
> (or was it 500? damn)Btu and about 3" dia and about 7-8" long. Comes 
> with everything to mount it except the propane tank. 

	Sounds like the one I have seen described before.  Any idea on
	cost?  (wonder how far down the temp can drop before propane
	doesn't like to co-operate either?)  Time to hit Canadian
	Tire for a longer extension cord.  Sunday started the 109
	up, drove from the end of the driveway up to the garage
	& turned it off.  Changed the starter selenoid.  Started it
	back up and backed it down the driveway & turned off.  Monday
	it wouldn't start.  Battery too low.  109 is parked 3 feet
	further way than my longest extension cord to get the charger
	to the battery (or the block heater for that matter)  <sigh>
	At least the lamppost is protected by a snow bank nearly at the 
	roof line of the Land Rover...

------------------------------

From: stretch@vol.net
Date: Thu,  4 Jan 96 23:58:57 PST
Subject: intro & request accessory info

I'm new to the list...looks very interesting.

Does anyone have info on either of the following accessories??

Hood (engine cover) mount for spare wheel & tire for late model Defender?  I see lots of photos, but no catalog listing with stuff I have.

Gaiters (leather front swivel protection) for Defender?

thanks much

John Collins

In Hong Kong

------------------------------

Date: 04 Jan 96 10:07:26 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Mail order stories.

     Chances are that even the best mail order places have screwed up once 
     in a while.
     
     Have ordered from Craddocks and Liverpool Lr supermarkets, RN and ABP 
     for a variety of things.
     
     Craddocks were great. Getting the part in shipping it over etc just as 
     promised.
     
     Liverpool were bozos trying to stiff me for UKL50 shipping (I talked 
     them out of it) on an UKL84 part (stowable boot* cover for my 
     discovery) then really screwed me by shipping the rr version. That 
     error will cost me thousands to get right (wife wants a rr now). 
     
     RN and ABP have proven great to deal with. Picked up military tow 
     hooks and other bits and pieces from RN and got the stowable boot 
     cover for my disco from ABP. 
     
     Chris Browne
     95 Discovery. (dashing through the snow in a 182 hp land rover 
     discovery....)

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 10:16:18 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Auxiliary propane Heaters

Dixon asks
> 	Sounds like the one I have seen described before.  Any idea on
> 	cost? 
The last price sheet I have (old) has a price of around $100 US I 
think.
 (wonder how far down the temp can drop before propane
> 	doesn't like to co-operate either?) 

The cabin I lived in in VT the winter od '92 had a propane stove. 
Never had any problem and it got well below zero a few times.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Mark.Kraieski@mailport.delta-air.com
Date: 4 Jan 96 11:28:02 -0500
Subject: Tires Available for Disco

I have not been entirely satisfied with the off-road performance of the 
factory Michelins on my '96 Disco, especially during moderate ascents in wet 
Georgia clay (which I see a lot of!). After a few tire revolutions up such a 
hill, the small tread voids are completely filled and forward progress 
ceases. Applying power to spin-clean the tires gets enough bite to take me 
the rest of the way up the hill in a somewhat dramatic sideways fashion. I 
made several attempts on one hill experimenting with different gears and 
hi/lo range (yes, center diff was locked) but was never completely 
satisfied.

Then a stock Jeep climbed right up with minimal drama on  BFG MTs.

What tires are readers running on their Discos? What non-standard sizes? 
What sizes will fit without rubbing?

The stock tires are 235/70R16. I know Mark Ritter is (sometimes) running the 
225/75R16 BFG MTs which are slightly narrower (10mm) but are also a hair 
taller in theory (doing the math, 235*.7=164.5mm versus 225*.75=168.75mm rim 
to surface). I have found few aggressive off-road tires available in the 
stock Disco size. The BFG's and some other brands are available in both 
225/75R16 and 245/75R16. Any chance the larger size will fit? They are quite 
a bit taller (mathematically, 38.5mm total or 1 and a half inches). Anybody 
running these? What will the tires hit through full articuation and can 
those components be massaged to provide clearance?

Thanks!

Mark Kraieski

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 96 08:46:44 PST
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: San Jose British Motors (was Re: New and old Rovers, Dealerships)

Someone wrote:

>> If I decide that my Green Rover needs a new young sibling, or if 
>> anyone asks me where to go to buy a new Rover, I'll point them to 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>> anyone asks me where to go to buy a new Rover, I'll point them to 
>> the San Jose British Motors. Rover lot.

Then Bennett replied:

>From: Bennett Leeds <bennett@mv.us.adobe.com>
>hat would be the exact opposite of the advice I'd give. 
>> the San Jose British Motors. Rover lot.

With regards to San Jose British Motors:

I have only positive things to say about both the sales staff putting up
with my nagging questions, the parts people searching for components, not
yet in their books, and calling me back with "discount" prices, and service
that has fixed both minor and major problems.  On a house scouting trip 
when I was relocating to the Bay Area, one of the sales people was courteous
enough to go dig up a tape measure to verify D90 height with plastic hard
top. ( So I could make a decision on a rental with a low garage door. ) 
I had purchased my D90 in Mission Viejo and had driven up in my friends
Jeep.  

The sales people seem genuinely interested in my Land Rover experience.
I've been queried about accessory part sources and offroad performance.
( It is pretty obvious my D90 has seen some tough trails :) )

Last year (late '94?) they had a Series vehicle forsale on their lot.  It 
was placed in very prominient position in front of the dealership.

-Rick (and no, I have no vested interest in San Jose British Motors.)
'94 D90

  

Richard Larson
LSI Logic Corporation
(408) 433-7149

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 11:48:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Mail order stories.

Chris Browne states:

  >  RN and ABP have proven great to deal with. Picked up military tow 
  >  hooks and other bits and pieces from RN and got the stowable boot 
  >  cover for my disco from ABP. 
 
I totally agree. Both RN and ABP have given good advice (RN stronger in the
technical) and have been excellent about shipping parts and accepting parts
back when the parts were not right or turned out to be not needed (ABP took
back 2 doorpost weld-ins 2 months afterwards when it turned out the old ones
were ok!) 

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, Maryland USA 21020
NADdMD@aol.com
67 SIIA 

home(410)429-4964
work(410)828-2704
    

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jan 1996 10:57:49 -0500
From: Shaun Carrigan <shaunc@infi.net>
Subject: Re: 88 RR: Self-emptying washer fluid reservoir

Has anyone attempted a repair for the leaking pump that causes this 
problem? The left headlamp washer on my '88 RR recently developed 
this problem and it's more than a trickle...
Shaun Carrigan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 12:05:51 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Auxiliary propane Heaters

On Thu, 4 Jan 1996, Tom Rowe wrote:

> The cabin I lived in in VT the winter od '92 had a propane stove. 
> Never had any problem and it got well below zero a few times.

	It is the perfromance at under -20c I am interested in.  Two years
	ago, the high for a 20 day period in Jan-Fed was -22c.  In the -30c's
	in the mornings.  My real worry is starting the 109 after being
	at work all day.  There are no electrical outlets around in the
	parking lot.  Of course, I did used to bring a propane torch into
	work with me when I was driving the winter Mini...  :-)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 17:16:56 GMT
From: "S.W.Brierley" <S.W.Brierley@dl.ac.uk>
Subject: Ace Ventura- MURDERER...AHHHHHHH.

Sorry all for that outburst,

But anyone (who loves LR's) will have just about the same 
reaction if they see  Ace (hah) Ventura's new movie.

Lets set the scene.......

British Consul in the middle of jungle, camera pans across
the front of the building........

LOOK, FOUR LandRovers, Bloody four. Shouts Stuart to himself.
(2x IIa and 2 x III-all SWB). At last someone has realised the
cinematic virtues of such wonderful vehicles.

Then what happens.... throughout the fil they flamin' trash
two of them, I was a broken man upon leaving that there
cinema, I can tell you that.

Am I the only one who mourns the death of LR's or are there
others like me who suffer such mental torture.

Anyway, i'll stop blubbing now.

Bye for now, keep up the damn good list.

Stu and EMMA ( a  '76 SWB Ser III V8- Love of my life)

------------------------------

From: JEPurnell@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 12:32:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Auxiliary Heaters for anything.

In a message dated 96-01-03 17:32:08 EST, you write:

>               If the heater requires
>	electricity, they are useless unless there  is power at the 
>	destination.  (see how well a 109 starts after sitting all day at 
>	-20c while you are at work & there are no plug ins.)

Don't know about the Whitless heater availability, but the heaters I'm
talking about require around 2 amps for a small fan.  This is a continuous
current draw so you'd have to be able to supply that for as long as needed
and still be able to start the engine.  Upon starting the heater, it will
 draw 20 amps for about a minute or two in order to heat the combustion
chamber, then fires off.  After that the hot combustion chamber is the
"ignition" source.  

John
1994 D90, Wisconsin.

------------------------------

From: JEPurnell@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 12:32:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Aux. heaters

After a few responses on the fancy auxiliary heaters, here is the skinny:

Espar Heater Products
Eric Jesseman
800-387-4800
6435 Kestrel Rd, Mississauga, Ontario, Canada, L5T1Z8
fax 905-670-0728

Tell him John Purnell, of California Air Resources Board infamity  gave you
the contact, I may have to call him for a job.  :>)

John
1994 D90, Wisconsin.  Hey, it's 20 degrees today, Hooorraayyyy!!!! . . .
"where DID I put that heater information..."

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 12:17:42 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Auxiliary propane Heaters

Snip
> 	It is the perfromance at under -20c I am interested in.  Two years
> 	ago, the high for a 20 day period in Jan-Fed was -22c.  In the -30c's
snip

Dixon,
I'll see if I can get an operating range.
or
You could always wrap the propane tank in a battery blanket wired to 
a second battery.
Or, like at Pruhoe Bay, leave it idling all day. ;-)

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 14:10:41 -0500
Subject: re: John Collins in Hong Kong

John;     Sorry....... I did it again, deleted a message before I got the
chance to copy down the e-mail address..Please send me your address......Were
you from Oyster Bay, NY??

                                                                      Thanks,

                                                                        Steve
Bradke   WA2GMC

                                                                           72
s lll 88 petrol      

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Subject: FW: Filters for Disco's
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 12:01:49 -0800

OIL - Fram PH5443
AIR - Cooper AG1103

-- Bob W.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 96 15:28:48 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Pull Pal/Drivetrain noise?

Hi all,

A Couple of things;

First, I'm thinking of buying a Pull Pal. Some of the off-roading I do is 
on power or gas line tracks and a good winching point can be scarce. 

1- Does anyone out there have any experience using this device?
2- Does it really work? In loose dirt, sand, mud?
3- Is it easy to use/setup/breakdown?
4- Any recommendations on size, 8" or 10" spade? Will be used for a D90.

Second; a while back someone posted a problem with a defective 
transmission or transfer case on a D90. I'm getting a slight 
grinding/meshing noise when fluttering the gas pedal at 50 to 60 MPH. This 
usually happens when I back off of the gas. Has anyone had any similar 
problems with a D90?

Any information is greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Barnett
95 D90.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 96 15:35:35 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: sealing a v8 and more on v8 parts

Re: swimming with a v8.

_theoretically_ (i.e. I have not done this) the timing cover of the 3.5
is interchangeable w. the Buick 231 v6.  Thus, stock GM crank-triggerred
ignition is available.  So at least the points are eliminated.
Not quite sure if there is a coil pack that would work, any ideas?
 Of course, there are aftermarket systems, too.
Also, post-75 Buick HEI fits nicely for those who don't trust uncle Lucas.

As for my v8 projects, I found an Olds 215 that I will stroke to ~4.3l.
Meanwile I'll borrow the 4bbl intake to replace the silly Strombergs on the
Rover.  I hope to complete the swap this spring.  I also found an SD1 EFI system,
which would work in lieu of the "proper" LR EFI, I hope.

Jan (in US)

------------------------------

From: PurnellJE@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 15:44:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Auxiliary propane Heaters

In a message dated 96-01-04 13:32:43 EST, you write:

>I'll see if I can get an operating range.
>or
>You could always wrap the propane tank in a battery blanket wired to 
>a second battery.
>Or, like at Pruhoe Bay, leave it idling all day. ;-)

Wouldn't it be easier to plug the blanket  into an outlet?  You'd probably
wear that aux battery down quick...

    :)

------------------------------

From: TWakeman/Apple@eworld.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 12:47:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Mail order stories.

 >  >  RN and ABP have proven great to deal with. Picked up military tow 
>  >  hooks and other bits and pieces from RN and got the stowable boot 
 > >  cover for my disco from ABP. 
 
> I totally agree. Both RN and ABP have given good advice (RN stronger in the
> technical) and have been excellent about shipping parts and accepting parts
> back

You guys might want to give British Pacific in Southern California a try.
 They are nice friendly enthusiasts and have been making big expansions in
their invintory.  Their parts are high quality and they are almost always the
low price leader in the US.

A satisfied customer

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Jan 1996 08:43:41 +1000
From: o.evans@latrobe.edu.au (Owen Evans)
Subject: Warning lights SIIA

Hello LROs

I have a query regarding replacement bulbs for warning (instrument panel)
lights that I hope someone will be able to help with.

My (Haynes) manual indicates, (with one exception) that the warning lights
and instrument panel lights are 12v, 2.2w with a Lucas part number.  The
exception is the flasher warning light, also 12v, 2.2w, but specified as
"Magnatex GBP".  My question is, what is so special about this particular
light, and will the sky fall in if I use anything else?

Owen Evans
1971 SIIA 88  "Agatha"

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 17:47:14 -0500
Subject: Range Rover Models

Received a catalog from Hobby heaven Grand Rapids, Mich.  1-616-453-1094
   fax 1-616-791-9295 ... they list the following plastic glue-together type
models which may be of interest.... Range Rover, Paris-Dakar Rally  $ 17.00
     Kit # ESCI     3033                                   Range Rover, Camel
Trophy  $ 17.00           Kit # ESCI 3036
                                                No year is listed for either
model

                                                                            I
beleive they are 1:24 scale

                                                                           No
series LR Kits available

                                                                      Regards
     Steve Bradke

                                                                           72
s lll 88

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Wading and lights
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 09:18:17 +1030 (CST)

Steve has a problem too:
> I have seen a rubber cover for the back of headlamps which may work. I
> don't know where to get them from though. Sealing the bulb aperture
> with silicone is probably not a good idea as the bulbs get so hot.

The rubber boots usually come with the Lamps, but dont worry they dont help
too much.  Water still gets in just less... you still have to dry them out in
the oven :-)

> The easiest solution is to fit my old sealed beams, which have the same
> connector on the back as the halogens (but this may not be normal)
> whilst I am playing.

Once upon a time it was possible to get Hella Sealed halogen beams,  let me
try to explain.  Its a sealed beam, but inside is a full on H4 halogen globe,
not an exposed filament.  I havent seen them in any shops for a while but it
may be worth rummaging through a parts book, always figured to try them one
day but...

I've found that outboard protectant makes a good ignition anti-wet, for those
that can get it BP CPD-32, is quite good and usually dirt cheap, most of the
servo's here in Adelaide dont carry it, they dont know how good it really is.
Used to sell boxes of the stuff when I worked in the tropics.

I have no connection with BP, though given the amount of petrol I buy they
should give me shares.....

-- 

  Daryl

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jan 1996 18:21:36
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: Re: fuel to burn?

>X-State:  3
>X-Total-length:      2013
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 41 lines)]
>it reads backwards but the reading half full when empty has me stumped. Can
>anyone Help?
So what else is new? A funky fuel gauge? I'd like to hear about that 
transmission and how you "unstuck" the engine! A Series owner can't be 
bothered by such trivialities as a fuel gauge. "Press On Regardless !" and 
all that. OK, so I'm no help. 
As we all know, fuel guages are just stupid resistor coils that say whatever 
they are told. I'd spend a minute looking at the way the sender wires are 
attached (experience shows that just because a wire is red on one end doesn't 
mean it's red on the other) 
Now that it's negative ground do the headlights shine in your eyes at night? 
I must know!
All my troubles are Rover

Bill Adams
3Dmentia Video Animation
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington,MD 20895
301-949-9475

1966 S2a 109" SW Diesel "Keeping it stock in the face of common sense"

" One of these days I'm going to have this thing melted down and hammered into a coffin,
because when they lay me out it will be THIS son of a bitch that put me in it."

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 96 10:25:39 EST
From: carley@manly.civeng.unsw.EDU.AU (James Carley - WRL Staff)
Subject: Re:  intro & request accessory info

John from Hong Kong asked about accessories for Defender.

>From '87 110 parts manual:
Gaiter kit RTC3826   shouldn't be too expensive (1 hose clamp per side
also needed).
Bonnet mounted spare - there are 15 parts items listed to do this but 9 of
these items are rivets, bolts, washers etc. The main parts are:
MUC2443 Plate, MUC6418, MUC6419 Reinforcement channels, MRC4619 Buffer,
MUC2442 Clamping Plate, MUC2440 Retaining Plate for spare wheel.

Also, from the APPEARANCE in the parts man it looks like you don't need to
dismantle the swivel hub to get the gaiters on.

James Carley
Sydney Australia
'85 110

------------------------------

From: CORD5@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 18:51:04 -0500
Subject: UK Rovers, 110's, etc.

This is my first submission to the Land Rover mailing list.  I've been on the
list for about two weeks, and enjoy reading it every day.  I don't own a LR,
but my neighbor used to own a 88" late 60's LR. I loved driving it, but he
sold it before I could offer to buy it from him.  I've been noticing many
submissions from readers in the UK who own Rover's.  Are LR's significantly
cheaper in the UK?  What does a D90 or a Disco go for?  Are TD's available in
those models in the UK?

I know that many of you are interested in the 110, and that they are rare, so
here is an add I found in the Dallas Morning News for a 110 today.  The ad
reads as follows.
"'93 Defender 110, limited edition, only 4600 miles, please call for more
details.  Land Rover Dallas, 11400 North Central Expressway.  (214) 691-4BY4
 -or-  1-800-655-8479"
Hope this ad helps anybody interested in purchasing one of these rare 4x4's.

Cord Campbell, Texas
'90 Chevy Z71
No Rover's, yet.

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Salesmen 
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 1996 16:00:31 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <199512261903.OAA12160@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote:

	Ok, so I'm still catching up on the Xmas email....

} Also, don't play so poor: when you add the
} cost of your antiques plus parts plus repairs (time you spend times your wage
} rate) they don't cost much less than a spanking new Discovery per mile. 

	I don't know if it necessarily fair to factor my time and sweat towards
the cost of my Rover.  But even if I did, I don't think it would come close.
All told, my SIII 88" has cost me about $10,000 in parts and purchase price.
And that included buying an overdrive, winch, roofrack as well as purchasing 
$6,000 in parts (yes I started with a $1500 non-runner). And since I got the
Rover in spring 1991 I've put 70,000 miles on it--almost 26,000 in the last
year alone.  Even if I took 1000 hours to work on it (which I haven't) at
$15/hour, I'd only be at $25,000 which is still well below the Disco's 
price.  Gas mileage is about the same, excepting I use cheeper 87 Octane
and not 92 Octane, so the cost per mile fuelwise is about the same.
	So I'd have to conclude that the cost per mile is much less than a
Disco.  I'm working on my parts spreadsheet so maybe I'll post a real cost
per mile later...

Ben 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: 04 Jan 96 19:24:40 EST
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Fuel gauges

 Bruce  Chicago writes re fuel gauge problems.
Your  ser 2 fuel gauge is not compatable with the later type fuel tank  sender. 
The early type 12 v fuel gauge is used with the tank sender that has a small box
with a removable lid on the top
,the later type instrument is supplied with 10 volts from a stabilised supply
and the tank  sender has a flat top with a spade  connector. Watch out also for
24 voly versions of this type from the ex military vehicles.
The gauges and senders can not be interchanged 
 The latter type systems can also be identified by the fact that when the
ignition is switched on the needle moves slowly into  position, on the early
systems the needle moves instantly to the fuel position.
 The fuel  level systems are not polarity sensitive.

 Regards   Bill Leacock   Limey in exile.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 17:17:41 -0800
From: madhugo@best.com (Hugo Madden)
Subject: RE:  propane heaters

Just for the record, guys, propane liquefies at minus 42 (F or C, it's all
the same at minus 40)

                                                        _______
                                                       //_/_|__\___
                                                       \_ - ___ - _d
                                                         (o)   (o)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 17:21:55 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: VW as a gas heater

On Thu, 4 Jan 1996, Tom Rowe wrote:
(SNIP)
> Russ  writes:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> I VW mechanic told me some years back that quite a few VW's went up in 
> flames from those.

This thread reminds me of a woman in my home town who had just bought a 
new VW bug. On the way home from the dealership, the thing ran out of gas 
so she and her friend walked to a gas station and brought back a can of 
gasoline. They opened the engine compartment and put the gas into the 
filler neck. When she started the engine, the whole VW became a "gas heater"
(the filler neck they used was for crankcase oil).
Luckily, they got out of the bug safely.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 20:45:04 -0600 (CST)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Auxiliary Heaters for anything.

There was a military heater used in the Canadian Arctic that did not 
require electricity.  Some of the units came out as surplus a few years 
back.  A company in Winnipeg Manitoba called Princess Auto Parts on Panet 
Road had some of them for sale.  You might want to give them a call and 
see if they still have some of them.  They went into Military Jeeps so 
they should fit the Land Rover.  Don't forget that Volkswagon made a 
heater called a Southwind which ran from the gas tank.  Some of them will 
still be in vehicles in the wrecking yards I should think.  Check with 
your local natural gas company, they might still supply the Southwind. 
Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 20:55:03 -0600 (CST)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: Re: Auxiliary Heaters for anything.

Dixon:
You need to do a little tuning there.  My 88 sits out all day at work 
with temps this year to -36 or so and it always stars.  The secret seems 
to be the extra insulation under the hood and a "good" working choke.  I 
alwas put a cup of metholhydrate in my gas as well.  If you do plug in I 
think a battery blanket is just as important as a block heater.  
Batteries at -20 are very low efficiency.  There is always the crank to 
just turn over the engine before you use the starter.  This cuts the oil 
enough to get some load off the starter.  In Edmonton one winter when we 
set a record for the longest period below freezing in the city's history, 
I used a railroad lantern under the hood at night just to keep the frost 
out.  I never had a problem starting.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 21:02:30 -0600 (CST)
From: David Place <dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca>
Subject: bulb holders for SerII

Does anyone know a source of new lamp sockets for the instruments in the 
SerIIA?  The PO who had mine cut them up so they would take American push 
in bulbs.  Of course they don't make good contact now and I would like to 
replace them.  Dixon, maybe you could put an ad in the OVLR for me for 
these. If someone has a wiring harness they are cutting up I would love 
the lamp sockets.  Radio Shack replacments just don't make the friction 
fit needed to do the job correctly.  Dave VE4PN

------------------------------

From: Inkornoink@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 21:48:56 -0500
Subject: 110's

Hemmings Motor News has several D110's listed for January   ...   four, if I
remember correctly.  The prices should start coming down.....supply and
demand.

(Hoping!)

Hank Gregory
1990 RR c (Moby)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jan 1996 21:58:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: SII engine oddities

>         A question was emailed to me about SII petrol engines, thought I'd
> share the reply for anyone about to start a rebuild on a SII engine.

    All that stuff he said, plus:

    The head's pretty whacked compared to the later ones-
    -- 7:1 compression (but still not the same as a IIA 7:1 head!)
    -- two-piece rocker shaft
    -- different spacing of rocker stands

    Duncan, who ran in to all this when he tried to drop an 8:1 head in
    his original engine but keep the same rocker gear...

------------------------------

From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 21:48:49 -0500
Subject: Headlight guards

Anyone here actually seen a headlamp broken by a rock or branch? Was 
a headlight guard in place? Was the guilty object identifiable? How 
big was it?

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 19:34:53 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Four Wheeler of the Year

The February issue of Four Wheeler Magazine is out -- wih their Four
Wheeler of the Year competition. Last year the Discovery won, and the year
before it was the Defender. This Year the new Range Rover was one of the
nine contestants but only came third -- behind the Chevy Tahoe (2nd) and
the Jeep Grand Cherokee (first). 

Interesting write-up. It was fairly clear the RR was better than all
others in severe off-road conditions except for noticeable tire harshness
on fast rough roads. It was also notable that for the first time in any
Range Rover comparison I've seen, the RR did not come first in ride
quality, due to the low profile tires and stiffer suspension more tuned to
the street.  With one of the lowest power to weight ratios of the
contestants, it also didn't win any points for acceleration. 

Another interesting comment was that although it overcame all obstacles
effortlessly, it has no underbody protection from off-road hazards;
(does it even have a skid plate on the fuel tank?) 

It seems that in order to win this contest, the Solihull folks might have
to come up with more horsepower (which the 4.6HSE, not tested, has) AND a
more obvious superiority off-road, AND a better ride on rough surfaces
(whereas the 4.6HSE has a harsher ride due to even lower profile tires). 

Food for thought......

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

From: Simon Barclay <sbar@jna.com.au>
Subject: RE: Headlight guards
Date: Fri, 05 Jan 96 14:52:00 EST

I've had plenty of headlight guards broken by rocks, birds (usually galahs) 
and 'roos on Range Rovers over the years and can guarantee if the guards 
weren't there the headlamp would be gone and probably the indicators and 
side lights.

In one case last year I had a Cibe driving light (with its cover on) 
shattered by some dry mud flying off a 4WD going the other way - split the 
cover in half as well!!

I travel around 20,000 kms per year, mainly on country roads, (both sealed 
and dirt or gravel) and would replace the headlight covers on average twice 
a year (and glue them together just as often).  They are around $78 Oz and 
thats a lot cheaper than replacing all those expensive coloured bits of 
plastic on the front corners!!

Simon Barclay
Sydney Australia

'90 5 sp RR
'51 Series 1 (Louie)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 23:07:30 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Military Vehicles

Michael Carradine writes:

>"Army Motors" and "Supply Line" are published by the Military Vehicle 
>Preservation Association...

The president of that organization is a member of ROAV and lives in 
Richmond. One of his many vehicles is a beautifully-restored NATO 109.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  4 Jan 96 20:01:46 EST
Subject: 7:1 or 8:1 head - any performance difference?

I was thinking about this this evening, and my spec. books didn't have an 
answer for me.

Okay:

2.25L engine Would a significant performance difference be seen with either 
head?

Reason I'm asking is that I managed to acquire a 7:1 head for my beast that had 
been Stellite-converted, and my old boy's presently got an 8:1 head on his 
engine.

I can't see as it would make a helluva lot of difference, and none of the 
manuals or catalogues mentions a significant change.

    Opinions? -ajr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 22:33:44 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Electrical problems with 1967 109" NADA

Wes Newman asks...

>Need help....
>I need to find a short...I think.  Tried to start my 1967 109 the  
>other day and the battery was dead... charged it and the Rover ran  
.....snip.....
>I know there's a short but how do I find it.
-

Assuming your battery will keep a charge and your charging system is doing
the job..

If there is a short, your ammeter should show a discharge. But, if it is a
high resistance short, the ammeter may not be sensitive enough to show the
fault. You could disconnect a battery cable and use a multimeter set to
measure amps between the battery and battery cable. If you see a current
drain there, disconnect things one at a time until you find the cause. It
would help to have a wiring diagram to follow, assuming your wiring is all
standard. 

Check the condition of the wiring harness where it is secured by the metal
clamps. Over the years the vibration can cause the cloth insulation to wear
and the wires may get exposed. If you find and worn spots, repair them as
best you can and at the very least, replace the metal clamps with plastic ones.

Cheers

Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Faded Green     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol - Fern Camo
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol - Red and Blue
                     #:-}>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 22:33:44 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Auxiliary propane Heaters

Dixon sez...

>	It is the perfromance at under -20c I am interested in.  Two years
>	ago, the high for a 20 day period in Jan-Fed was -22c.  In the -30c's
>	in the mornings.  My real worry is starting the 109 after being
>	at work all day.  There are no electrical outlets around in the
-

Starting shouldn't be a major problem... It's getting the beast to move with
all that cold 90wt turned to glue...

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Fri, 5 Jan 1996 07:34:16 +0000
Subject:       Re: Auxiliary propane Heaters

On  4 Jan 96, Mike Loiodice wrote:

> Dixon sez...
> >	It is the perfromance at under -20c I am interested in.  Two years
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Starting shouldn't be a major problem... It's getting the beast to move
> with all that cold 90wt turned to glue...
Well, my problem at -22c was starting - If the starter dog wasn't frozen 
to the shaft then the oil (10/50) in the engine would slow everything 
right down.
Added to that is a little problem getting the thing to fire coherently in 
cold temperatures!

But it did eventually start!!!!!!

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

Quote of 1995: "The archididascalus is to be rusticated and will
                cease to be an abecedarian on the 1st of April"

------------------------------

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