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Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 03:32:13 -0500
From: landrvr@blacdisc.com (Mike Loiodice)
Subject: Re: Tire Wear

        Larry's asks about tire wear...

>Series III petrol.  Vehicle has 117,000 PLUS miles.  At first I thought it

.....snip.....
>Before I tackle track rod ends, swivel joints, shim plates, etc. as a whole,
>does anyone have a specific area I should look at first? 
-

You could look for obvious wear in the front end by jacking up the front
axel under the springs and wiggle the tire side-to-side and top-to-bottom.
If the swivel bearings/bushings have excessive wear it should show up when
you wiggle the tire top to bottom.

Cheers
Mike Loiodice
166 W. Fulton St.                  1965 SerIIa 88 Petrol ('Sydney')     
Gloversville                       1972 SerIII 88 Petrol ('Fern')
NY  12078  (USA)        7          1971 SerIIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)
                     #:-}>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 03:44:40 -0800
From: w1eox@ix.netcom.com (Yves  Feder)
Subject: The warm glow of burnished wood panels

>Right! A Discovery looks like a Jaguar like a VW Beetle looks like a Porshe. 
>I don't care how much wood trim you have (inside or out!). 
>Now there's a thought, wood paneling on the outside. A "woody" Disco! 
>Perfect for surfing.

In our Series truck, I installed the following wood panelling:

- a sheet 1/2" ext ply on the cargo bed. Formerly part of our barn shed
roof, before redoing it..... has lots of nice nail holes, knots, paint and
tar stains. All genuine antique. The warm glow of the fine burnished 
all-American plywood lends a subdued air of beluga-like distinction to the
cargo bay. And it keeps the sharp ends of our local salt hay from mutilating
the fine british-light-green finish on the LR bed. Also hate to bruise the
aluminum runners whilst loading raw firewood when in the woods.

- A creosote pressure treated railroad tie section, the width of the vehicle,
held in place just abaft the stern with two fabricated 3/8" mild steel brackets
secured to the rear frame members. Excellent rear bumper protection. And the
aroma of creosoted timber on a hot summer day is pretty neat too..

Yves Albert (Al "Al") Feder
w1eox@ix.netcom.com
Harpsichord Workshops and Recording Studios
"Danged if'n I unnerstand all I know"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 95 7:36:49 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Rear rack v.s roof rack

Dave,
Thanks for the reply. I did call my dealer LRMW, and Jim Pappas put a 
brochure aside for me. He also said that the rack looked "serious", and 
very well made, possibly by Safety Devices? But he wasn't sure. 

I agree with you. I was also concerned about height, and the extra weight 
so high up. Here in New England most trails are in the woods, and there 
can be some steep side hills to traverse. Clearance and weight could be a 
problem. However some of the other D90 owners I have off-roaded with have 
installed the Hella 3000's across the front top of their roll cages and 
they don't seem to have any problems with clearance. The lights are about 
9" high. So my main concern is the added weight. I also wonder how 
difficult it would be to install and remove the canvas top with the rack 
in place? 

Another option would be to use the inside cage support that runs across 
the back of the seats. It's possible to secure a Hi-lift, Max Axe, or 
shovel there. Then you could fabricate a small simple rack to carry two 
spare jerry cans back on the tire. This would keep the center of gravity 
lower.

I have seen the Masterack storage lockers they look like there well built. 
I would not be able to mount them on the wheel boxes because I will be 
fitting two inward facing bench seats there, but I was thinking about 
mounting one between the wheel boxes just behind the cage support and 
making it removable. 
That way I could fold up the seats, remove the storage locker and still 
have the maximum cargo area when I need to haul things.

I'll let you know how it all turns out.
Thanks,
Barnett
95 D90 AA yellow (unnamed but thinking!)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 95 8:18:20 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Lack of camaraderie

Dear Landy,

I think the reason series owners sometimes feel apart from new owners is 
the fact that SOME newer owners don't know or care to know about the 
heritage and history of Land Rover. They bought the vehicle because it 
will safely get them to and fro in bad weather, and they might not ever 
take their vehicle off-road (and thats okay). Land Rover is not that well 
known to non-enthusiasts in the US. All they have seen for many years are 
Range Rovers. I know for a fact that I have talked to people who don't 
know Range Rover is made by Land Rover!

Series owners are a different breed, with a different attitude. They take 
pride in the work it takes to build and restore a classic. They Know what 
a  LR is capable of.

Some newer owners (like myself) have bought LR's because we recognize and 
enjoy the full potential of our vehicles as mush as series owners do. When 
I went to my first LR rally in Maine this year a lot of the series owners 
were joking with me, "Has this thing ever been off-road?" "Are you going 
to try the trail you might get your truck dirty!" Etc. It was all in good 
fun. I told them I had been off-road many times and it was not a sin to 
wash off the mud!

After a great trail ride everyone new owners and series owners banded 
together and had a great time. I like talking to series owners because 
there are a lot of things about the series vehicles I prefer over the 
current LRNA options, like rear seats for one.

Camaraderie is alive and well between all LR owners who know and love the 
history behind these machines.

If I see ya I'll wave.
Barnett Childress 95 D90. 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 08:24:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: Ticking in a 2.25 petrol

> I've tried valve adjustment, but it only changes the rhythm slightly,,,also,
> valve adjustment seems dynamic on this vehicle....an adjustment and two
> hundred miles equals out of adjustment again.....

    Here is your Big Clue.

    If you adjust them and one or more slowly CLOSE again over time, you
    very likely have a burned valve.  As more of the valve head and seat
    wear away, it collapses farther up into the head, closing the gap.

    If the adjustments just wander around (Never Twice the Same
    Clearance?) then you most likely have a flattened roller on one or
    more tappets.  That would certainly account for the erratic tapping
    noise- when it's on a flat spot, the gap widens and you get tapping,
    when it happens to hit on a non-worn spot the gap closes and no
    tapping.

    Duncan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 08:17:56 -0500 (EST)
From: STEVE COX <Steve_Cox@Delphi.Com>
Subject: Scratches

>Subject: Getting rid of scratches
>Date: Thu, 28 Dec 95 18:38:43 -0500
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>Anyways here it goes.
>Has anyone have any suggestions for removing scratches from branches? 
***SNIP***
>Gary Mitchelson
>Date: Thu, 28 Dec 95 18:38:43 -0500

Dear Gary,
Re: your question on removing scratches from branches...  I would really think
that you would be OK to just leave the branches scratched... most woodland
creatures, and even most people in the woods would think the marks on the 
branches came from a natural source (Deer rubbing their antlers, Bears
scratching their backsides, mice racing their little feet, etc.).  If you are
really, really concerned -- I would seek the advice of a good tree surgen.

Regards,

Steve Cox

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 95 9:21:09 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Rear rack v.s roof rack

John,
I agree tipability depends on what's up there. Thanks for the info on 
extra noise. HMMMMM this is going to be a hard one to decide...

Barnett
Too many things to buy and not enough money!
Childress

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 06:47:23 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Range Rover Power Seat Switches

Regardless of what the manual states, you can repair the switches.
It is a pain, and be careful of all the round bb's that will roll
all over the kitchen floor. But by cleaning the switch contacts
it will work again.

Russ Burns (been there, done that)
91 R-ROver
94 D-90

At 12:10 AM 12/29/95 -0500, KKelly6788@aol.com wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>The power passenger seat back in my '89 Range Rover will not tilt forward (it
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>Thanks,
>Kevin Kelly
Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------

Date: 29 Dec 95 09:53:18 EST
From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com>
Subject: TICKING IN A 2.25 Petrol

    In addition to what Duncan said, you might also crank the engine with the
valve cover removed. The tappet assembly gets oil through the rear mount, and
then passes through the shaft forward to each of the rockers. As the rocker
shaft wears, the clearance between the rockers and the shaft increases and you
start to loose oil to the forward rockers. Since your engine does not have
many miles on it, I would be surprised if it the rocker shaft is to worn. It
could be that the passage is blocked. Either way, you can quickly get an idea
of the condition of the rocker shaft by watching the oil flow through the
assembly. The flow to each of the rockers should be the same.
    My engine had about 200,000 miles on it and the shaft was in awful shape,
but I think it cost about $250 to replace it.

     -------------------
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     |\/|           |\/|

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 29-Dec-1995

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 09:09:15 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Re: ROAV's Sun Visors......

On Thu, 28 Dec 1995 RICKCRIDER@aol.com wrote:
> Subject: ROAV's Sun Visors......
> The visor itself is very heavy aluminum plate, straight as an arrow,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Haven't installed it yet.   Actually haven't even painted it yet.   Doesn't
> look to be any problem at all though.
  for the record, how were the ones finished 20-30 years ago.  painting
i assume.  the limestone white, or the body color.  enquiring minds
(and visor owners) want to know...

ray harder (siia 88 (lulu))

------------------------------

From: clapp.carol@mail.viacomcv.hybrid.com (Carol Clapp)
Subject: Introduction
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 07:54:29 +0000

I have been listening in to the Land-Rover net so felt it was about time to
introduce myself.  Home is now in Castro Valley in the San Francisco Bay
Area.  I used to live in England where I had a SIII 88" 1981.  One of my
sons had a S1 1948 soft top which was fun to drive altho one had to hunch
forward to see below the top of the windshield.  He now has a 90TD.  We used
to use the S1 to tow a trailer loaded with hay across deeply mudded hills to
the animals.
Here in the US I have a SII of 1959 with tropical roof and huge fan.  Maybe
it was in South Africa as all good landrovers were at some time in their
lives!  Have yet to trace it's life story - it had been six years in a barn
before I found it.   It has no brake system and needs new outriggers on the
front of the chassis so my husband and I are about to take it apart and do a
rebuild.  May need help with the welding as neither of us has done any
welding.  I brought this landrover here in a 20 ft container and picked it
up at the docks in Oakland and brought it home on a transporter, put in some
gas, added a new battery and drove it into our garage where it will undergo
it's rebuild.  Only problem was: when I turned off the engine and removed
the key, the engine kept on running!  Not bad after six years in a barn.
In 1992 I bought a new Jeep Wrangler - the nearest thing which looked like a
rover at that time, as I hadn't seen any landrovers over here - it is a good
vehicle but still feels very light and like a toy compared to the old
rovers.  Talking of old rovers, my dad had a 1934 Rover car when I was
little and I learnt to drive on a Rover 90 I think it was (car not landrover).
More later - so pleased to have met you all.
Telephone number (510) 581-9180.
Carol

------------------------------

From: clapp.carol@mail.viacomcv.hybrid.com (Carol Clapp)
Subject: Introduction
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 07:56:35 +0000

>Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 07:40:32
>To: lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Subject: Introduction
>I have been listening in to the Land-Rover net so felt it was about time to
introduce myself.  Home is now in Castro Valley in the San Francisco Bay
Area.  I used to live in England where I had a SIII 88" 1981.  One of my
sons had a S1 1948 soft top which was fun to drive altho one had to hunch
forward to see below the top of the windshield.  He now has a 90TD.  We used
to use the S1 to tow a trailer loaded with hay across deeply mudded hills to
the animals.
>Here in the US I have a SII of 1959 with tropical roof and huge fan.  Maybe
it was in South Africa as all good landrovers were at some time in their
lives!  Have yet to trace it's life story - it had been six years in a barn
before I found it.   It has no brake system and needs new outriggers on the
front of the chassis so my husband and I are about to take it apart and do a
rebuild.  May need help with the welding as neither of us has done any
welding.  I brought this landrover here in a 20 ft container and picked it
up at the docks in Oakland and brought it home on a transporter, put in some
gas, added a new battery and drove it into our garage where it will undergo
it's rebuild.  Only problem was: when I turned off the engine and removed
the key, the engine kept on running!  Not bad after six years in a barn.
>In 1992 I bought a new Jeep Wrangler - the nearest thing which looked like
a rover at that time, as I hadn't seen any landrovers over here - it is a
good vehicle but still feels very light and like a toy compared to the old
rovers.  Talking of old rovers, my dad had a 1934 Rover car when I was
little and I learnt to drive on a Rover 90 I think it was (car not landrover).
>More later - so pleased to have met you all.
>Telephone number (510) 581-9180.
>Carol
>Subject: Introduction

------------------------------

From: Treit Le <Treit_Le@apprise.com>
Date: 29 Dec 95 10:35:31 
Subject: Re: kerosene on the debate...

>Owning a Disco has been one of the great joys of this
> last year...until earlier today. 

>I happened to have lunch in a badly infested area (with yup's) 
>of Santa Monica (California) this afternoon and parked
> directly in front of a brand-new (sparkling!) Beluga Black
> 1996 Discovery. A well-dressed couple and a nicely
> groomed Labrador Retriever (accessory?) were getting out
 >at the same time I was pulling up.

>It turns out they bought their car two days ago, love it dearly
>(more than their Porsche) and had the wood panelling installed yesterday.

>Wood Panelling??!!!

>Inside a Land Rover?!

Of course. It is used a a dampening material for the CD changer:)

Actually a very popular option. Can't understand why it costs $2000US for a 
couple strips of wood glued on. But plenty of other people do the same with 
carbon fiber in VW's and Hondas. Wood comes installed with all new RR's. I 
personally don't like it since it scratches easily. I covet the half leather, 
half wood Jaguar steering wheels though.

Triet Le (dressed somewhat poorly as laundry not done in 2 months)
'95 Classic ("Woody?")
'86 Porsche 944 Turbo (No wood anywhere)
No pets (groomed or otherwise)

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 11:31:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Range Rover Power Seat Switches

>>I was going to try and take it apart tonight and try to fix it (the shop
manual only tells how to replace the switch) but I thought I would post to
the list first and ask for any tips.

As they say:  "Just do it!".  I look at the seat switches as an almost annual
maintenance item.  I'm usually rebuilding one or the other at some time
during the year.  I have a bad habit of leaving the sunroof open during
summer rainstorms.

It's not hard at all.  Just keep track of all the little balls, get some
contact cleaner & Q-tips, and maybe a small file & tweezers.  It's only about
a ten minute job.  Good luck. - Tony

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 17:49:48 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Wood panelling

Peter Marx wrote:

>Dear Folk:
>Owning a Disco has been one of the great joys of this last year...until 
>earlier today. 

>I happened to have lunch in a badly infested area (with yup's) of Santa 
>Monica (California) this afternoon and parked directly in front of a 
>brand-new (sparkling!) Beluga Black 1996 Discovery. A well-dressed couple 
>and a nicely groomed Labrador Retriever (accessory?) were getting out at 
>the same time I was pulling up.

>It turns out they bought their car two days ago, love it dearly (more 
>than their Porsche) and had the wood panelling installed yesterday.

>Wood Panelling??!!!

>Inside a Land Rover?!

>Waaaaa! Eeeek! (and various other caterwallings!)
>It looked just like a Jag...only about three feet higher off the ground!

>Maybe the Series owners will take an embarrassed Disco owner into their 
>ranks...? Please?

>Peter Marx

Dear Peter - welcome!  All you have to do is rip out the A/C, get very stiff 
leaf springs, disconnect between 25 and 50 % of your spark plugs and 
constantly play a tape of extremely loud engine noise on the stereo, and you 
are practically one of us!

Hope 96 is better for you
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 12:14:22 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Wood panelling

On Fri, 29 Dec 1995 lopezba@atnet.at wrote:

> Dear Peter - welcome!  All you have to do is rip out the A/C, get very stiff 
> leaf springs, disconnect between 25 and 50 % of your spark plugs and 
> constantly play a tape of extremely loud engine noise on the stereo, and you 
> are practically one of us!

	???  If you completely remove a couple of the spareplugs, you can do
	without the stereo too!  Of course, for the full effect, the
	A/C stays in.  It operates continuously in the winter, while
	in the summer, the heater runs full blast.   :-)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 09:58:12 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: re:Rear rack vs roof rack and Hi-Lift question

Dear Barnett,
Thanks for your note.
A couple of "armchair" observations:
-from the photo on the brochure, it doesn't look like the LRNA rack would 
interfere much with removal/installation of soft top. Technique would 
have to differ since you might not be able to *fold* it till it was off.
-storage of Hi-lift, shovel, etc. is possible behind the front seats, but 
it limits access to the rear, and if the tools get used on a trip, their 
mud ends up in an area that is more difficult to clean out (space behind 
front seats) than the front foot wells or rear load space.

Also a Hi-Lift question:
On the NAS D90 it looks like the front and rear bumpers are the only 
jackpoints for the vehicle. 
Jackall sells an extender which slips over the lifting part of their jack 
to insert into Defender frame members, but it doesn't look like it would 
bolt onto a Hi-Lift jack securely.
Any Hi-Lift advice from other Land Rover owners?

Best wishes,
David

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 95 13:24:36 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Hi-Lift jack points

Dave,
The attachment slips over the Jaw of the jack and is bolted in place. I 
think it would work fine but I haven't ordered mine yet. My jack was a 
Christmas gift and came with the quick clamp and the mounting brackets, 
they look sturdy. Some people just use the jack as is directly under the 
front bumper then push the vehicle over.

Good point about returning all the muddy gear behind the seats. It would 
be easier to have everything mounted outside, and probably more accessible 
too.

Oh well, back to the drawing board. That full rack is sounding better all 
the time!

Regards,
Barnett.  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 11:01:35 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: re:Hi-Lift jack points ....and roof rack for NAS D90

Barnett:
Is your jack a "Hi-Lift" or a "Jack-All"? The extender for Defenders that 
I've seen advertised (in Land Rover Owner) slips over the lifting jaw and 
bolts to it through a hole in the jaw of the "Jack-All"
The Hi-Lift has a cut-out in the jaw that is *not* round and doesn't look 
like it would securely support a bolt without wobbling.

Regarding the height of the LRNA roof rack for the D90: Two small 
electric chain saws mounted with chains facing forward at the leading 
corners of the basket and remote switches mounted on the dash might take 
care of low branches over trails and provide *green* wood for camp fires 
- branch part drops into basket automatically (or onto windshield and 
hood!)  BUT the chainsaws *might* attract dirt bikers :-{ 

Best,
David

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 11:32:21 -0800
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: Discovery radio

Did the advice you got about leaving the radio off for an hour solve your 
problem?  If not, it might be that your '92 radio is more closely related to 
mine, an '88.  If so, in order to clear out erroneously entered numbers (in 
your case 154) so you can enter the correct code, you need to push and hold 
down the band (BND) button until the numbers clear.

-Matt

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 11:35:58 -0800
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: Getting rid of scratches

The solution for me has been an orbital buffer and a polishing compound, 
called MALCO lite finish.  I got the stuff by going to a detailer supply 
shop, where a fellow tried various things on the scratches until he found 
the mildest stuff that would take the scratches out.

-Matt

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 11:43:11 -0800
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: Range Rover Power Seat Switches

This was discussed in some detail a few months ago, and in fact the thread 
might be in the RR FAQ if there is one.

There are three solutions: 

1. If you don't adjust the seat very often, it's possible to remove the 
switch, disconnect the two plugs from the bottom, and use two jumper wires 
to activate the motor to put the seat into a comfortable position.

2.  You can open the switch, clean the contacts, and reassemble.  This will 
require some patience, as there at least 50 little parts inside.

3.  You can buy a replacement switch.  The cheapest source would be a 
Mercedes wrecking yard, and the second cheapest source would be a Mercedes 
dealer.

-Matt
'88 RR

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 95 14:49:47 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Hi-Lift jack points ....and roof rack for NAS D90

Dave,
I have a Jack All 8000.

Great tip for clearing forest trails and gathering firewood but I believe 
that "old fashioned reliable chain saws" would work best on Series 
Rover's. Newer NAS Rover's would have to be equipped with something a 
little more modern. Something complicated, with a lot of moving parts, 
remotely powered, and possibly laser aimed with some sort of video display 
on the dash to let you know if it's on or not?

I hear LRNA is secretly working on this as we speak. There biggest 
problems to date have been keeping up the "Tread Lightly" theme, and or 
course USA DOT Safety approval!

Barnett.

------------------------------

From: "John R. Benham" <BENHAM@WFOCLAN.USBM.GOV>
Date:          Fri, 29 Dec 1995 11:59:17 +1100
Subject:       Land Rover for sale!

Dear LRO's,

    A local friend and Rover owner is selling one of his Land Rovers. 
So here are the particulars:
 
    Land Rover
    1969 SIIA late model
    Hard top
    Limestone
    15" wheels/tires
    No modifications
    Super straight
    All original
    $8,000. obo

    Contact Brent Rosengrant: 208.267.6507

    Land Rover and Brent are in Bonners Ferry, Idaho

Later,

John R. Benham
Spokane, WA
    

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 12:05:35 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: LRNA and supply of Rovers

On Sat, 9 Dec 1995 ericz@cloud9.net wrote:

> The reason that LRNA doesn't bring any more D90s into the US is quite simple:  
> They want to restrict the supply to justify charging astronomical prices for the 
> Defenders.  This is also the reason that they "discourage" any form of 
> importation of other LR vehicles (Including pre-'67). LRNA is in the business of 
> supplying limited edition status symbols, not Land Rovers.

Now Now folks -- LRNA, unlike the members of this list, has to make a 
profit out of Land Rovers. Otherwise their importation would once again 
cease and we would all be back to where we were pre 1987.

Just a thought--
Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Scratches
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 95 15:39:24 -0500
From: Gary Mitchelson <garym@cais.cais.com>

-- [ From: Gary Mitchelson * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

> Re: your question on removing scratches from branches...  I would really
think
> that you would be OK to just leave the branches scratched... most woodland
> creatures, and even most people in the woods would think the marks on the 
> branches came from a natural source (Deer rubbing their antlers, Bears
> scratching their backsides, mice racing their little feet, etc.).  If you
are
> really, really concerned -- I would seek the advice of a good tree surgen.

Thanks Steve,
I was trying to return natureto the way it was before I trampled it.
The other option was to collect all the damaged branches and make some wood
paneling for the dash.

--
Gary Mitchelson     
N3JPU     
garym@racalrecord.com     
Racal Recorders, Inc.     

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 12:44:24 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Range Rover open Diff, TC, and buying used questions

Looks like a lot of water has flowed under the bridge since this inquiry, 
but I can clarify a couple of points from the responses etc:

1. The viscous diff lock is certainly effective, and allows only just 
enough movement to prevent binding. For example, in a tight turn on 
concrete the tires squeal. One advantage not often mentioned is that it 
should help prevent breakage of axles and other drive train parts during 
four wheeling in conditions such as rocks where most folks lock up for 
better traction, but where it's like being on pavement as far as the 
excess binding forces are concerned. The other advantage is you get 
maximum traction at all times without having to think about it -- useful 
when you are going over varying road surfaces.

2. The reason it's not used on Discos and Defenders is that it's probably
more expensive and is incorporated in a new chain driven Borg Warner
transfer case that's quieter and was developed specially for the RR. 

3. Same applies to the suspension system which in the RR is superior to
any other vehicle, Land Rover or not, for off road use. The early ones
have a Boge self energising load levelling device not fitted to other
models, allowing softer springs, which combined with the absence of sway
bars allow the vehicle to maintain exceptional ground contact force on all
four wheels. This gives outstanding traction on uneven terrain, even
without limited slip or locking diffs in the axles. On the later ones
similar benefits accrue from the air suspension and traction control. The
new shape RR also has air and traction control but with harder spring
rates and less travel, so it remains to be seen whether it's as good off
road. 

Hope this totally unbiased treatment adds some spark to the discussion!!

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

On Wed, 13 Dec 1995, William Owen wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>    I've started looking for a 87-90 (maybe even a 91 if I wait a few
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 37 lines)]
>    Thanks in advance for all your help.
>        A hopefully soon to be Range Rover owner

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 12:52:49 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: New Range Rover

Great news about the rumour of more US spec 90's!

Re the new Range Rover, though I am disappointed in some of its features
such as reduced departure and breakover angles, stiffer ride and reduced
suspension travel, it seems at least to be able to run rings around the
4x4's made by other manufacturers, when it comes to off road performance,
from the comparison reviews I've seen. I'm looking forward to seeing what
the Four Wheeler of the Year writeup in Four Wheeler magazine next year
says about it -- I assume it would be one of the contenders?? It would be
neat if a Land Rover product won 3 years in a row (94 was the Defender, 95
the Discovery -- plus the Range Rover win in 89). 

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

On Thu, 14 Dec 1995 KKelly6788@aol.com wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> >Ever look at the new Range Rover??  Those cars were never meant for off road
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 25 lines)]
> 110 he responded "no  comment"
> Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Scratches
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 95 13:30:47 PST

I am a little confused by all this, but if you painted your
landrover with a good quality tree tar, all the scratched should heal.

Russ Burns

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 26 lines)]
> garym@racalrecord.com     
> Racal Recorders, Inc.     

------------------------------

From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 17:40:02 -0500
Subject: Re: ROAV's Sun Visors......

In a message dated 95-12-29 10:14:57 EST, you write:

> The visor itself is very heavy aluminum plate, straight as an arrow,
>> beautiful breaks and bends.  Nicely ground edges.  Nicely machine punched
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>>   The aluminum visor is almost too pretty to paint.
>> Haven't installed it yet.   Actually haven't even painted it yet.
  Doesn't
>> look to be any problem at all though.
>  for the record, how were the ones finished 20-30 years ago.  painting
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>(and visor owners) want to know...
>ray harder (siia 88 (lulu))

Ray:
I don't know the *official* color scheme for the visors.......I'm gonna paint
mine limestone to match the top.   Gonna leave the galvanized brackets as
they are except for coating the exposed edges with some cold zinc galvanizing
compound.
Cheers.......
Rick Crider

------------------------------

From: "Mugele, Gerry" <Gerry.Mugele@wellsfargo.com>
Subject: Diesel Trivia
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 95 15:21:00 PST

Some time back Christopher Boese questioned the lack of diesels in the US 
and speculated:

>Is it an emission thing? BTW,
>Mercedes no longer can sell diesels in California, even though they've 
developed a soot-reducing
>catalytic converter-style "afterburner."

Uh...not true.  The MB 300D is still available, even in Calif.  I had to 
check to be sure but it is.  I drove one last year and they are surprisingly 
smooth, quiet and odor/soot free.  It is a new (two or three years old) 
6-cylinder engine, naturally (for a diesel) aspirated - that is to say no 
turbo.  I believe HP was around 135; quite good for a 3 liter oil burner.

But I think your original presumption that emissions are the problem is 
correct for the other manufacturers.  And in the US diesels generally have 
very limited market appeal.  That combined with EPA hassles and various 
idiot inspired regulations create a diesel hostile market.  I think MB can 
do it because for so long they were identified with quality diesel passenger 
cars in the US.

I should think that the TDi must be fairly close to meeting the requirements 
though so I agree with Kevin Kelly:
 >If people are interested in the Tdi they might think about writing a 
letter
>to LRNA. After BMW decided not to import the new E36 M3 they received quite 
a
>few letters.  Executives from BMWNA have publicly announced that it was the
>letters received from owners and potential owners that got them to change
>their mind.

Right or wrong it couldn't hurt.  I've wanted a new diesel LR for 27 years 
now...

Gerry M 72 88
*** Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine.

------------------------------

Date: 29 Dec 95 18:54:59 EST
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Lucas 761

Dixon asks for info on the LU 761 Rear light.
 My 67, 69  and 70 Lucas catalogues list the 761 , "stop. tail and number plate
lamp as fitted to the 88, 109 and 2b FC models. 
 The US spec is listed as fitted with the 692 stop and tail light. and a
separate number plate lamp.

 Happy New Year
Regards  Bill  Leacock, Limey in exile.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 16:28:51 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Wood panelling

Watch out, Peter Marx.  These Series guys can get kind of mean.  Just toss
them a can of 90wt.  Calms them right down, it does. ;-)

Cheers!
John
'95 Discovery (Say it loud!  I'm plush, and I'm proud!)

At 17:49 29.12.95 +0100, lopezba@atnet.at wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Peter Marx wrote:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)]
>Peter Hirsch
>SI 107in S/W

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 19:22:58 -0800
From: marick@nwlink.com (Rick Harrison)
Subject: Ex-MOD 109 for sale.

I'm selling my baby (109) to buy/build a new baby (D90).
Series III 109 Military, 12V, NATO flat green, Frame off Rebuild over winter 
'92/'93, Chevy 250 six (well sorted conversion, really), Late IIA Gearbox 
(the one that can take it),  3.54 Salisbury rear axle, Range rover 3.54 
Front, Selectro Frewheel hubs, Oil cooler, Full length Hard top w/side 
windows and tropical skin (winter), MOD Roll bar and Full length Canvas (w/o 
windows, for summer), Tailgate and full length rear door, Military 
suspension, Reinforced front axle housing, 19 gallon fuel tank in the rear 
(outside fill), 8000Lb. 2 speed winch, Bull bar, 90% BFG Mud Terrains, AM/FM 
Cassette, No frame changes done for the engine conversion so it could easily 
be converted back to 2-1/4 engine.
Garaged, Absolutely no rust anywhere, Smooth running, tight Land Rover and 
excellent off road (except in those pesky tight spots where the 109 turning 
circle shows up.), Only about 10k miles since the rebuild. Located in 
Everett, Washington (Seattle Metro area)
$14,000
Rick Harrison, 
marick@nwlink.com
206-337-1185

       ___________
      /_"___"___"_\
     |      |      |
    [|______|______|]   Mari and Rick
     /___\_____/___\    marick@nwlink.com
    |(@) [|||||] (@)|    206-337-1185
    | o  [|||||]  o |
    ======+++++======
    |%|=={&}======|%|
    |%|           |%|
     Color it GREEN!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 22:45:51 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Noisy roof racks and other matters

Barnett Childress writes:
>Does a roof rack add a lot of noise when driving on the highway?

I have a full length Brownchurch rack on my 88 constructed out of 3/4" 
square tube stock.  As it was hot-dipped, all of the sections have holes to 
let the galvanizing in and the air out during the bath.  Anyway, when the 
forward vs cross wind is just right, these things get *musical* with all 
these weird little hoots and whistles. 

Roger Peng writes:
>...provided it comes at a stripped down price.  Look at the Defender 90, 
>that's a pretty stripped down vehicle, but it costs over 30K...

You can thank Uncle Sam and Detroit lobbyists for that price tag.  The 
Defender as well as all off-shore 2 door sport-utes pay a 25% tarriff.  For 
that reason, Rover's profit margin is *very* slim on the D-90, the prime 
reason, I think, why it is being withdrawn.

And John White writes:
>Here's to the Revolution, comrades!

I like to think back to the time that the local dealer invited ROAV over for 
the "unveiling" of the 110.  (Free food and drinks - they didn't have to ask 
twice!)  They probably figured that we would add a certain air of 
'rusticality' to the whole proceeding.  Anyway, a group of us shows up in 
various greasy/grimy/leaking 22-35 year old vehicles.  Curiously bypassing 
the drinks (for a while) two immediately popped the bonnet and three others 
slid underneath.  (Never been under a Rover and laid on carpet before...)  I 
don't think *anyone* else (staff, sales people) there had *ever* done that. 
We haven't been asked back....

And Landy88@aol.com asks about non-rythmic tapping sounds:

Depends upon where its coming from.  Beg/borrow/steal a set of cheap, 
disposable stethoscopes and replace the chest piece with a bit of copper 
tubing.  Check to see if the noise is coming from the front timing cover.  
If it is, the timing chain dampening device is loosening - it needs 
*immediate* attention.  The consequences of the thing coming adrift at speed 
is similar to breaking a timing belt...not pretty.

Tomorrow - the rear frame crossmember!   Chaaarrgggeee.....
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 23:14:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Chris Haslam <haslam@alcor.concordia.ca>
Subject: 88 RR: Self-emptying washer fluid reservoir

There seems to be a minor epidemic of this at the moment!

Mine empties to below the level of the front and rear pumps. I took the
reservoir out.  It spent overnight in the bathtub, and remained full! (I
blocked off the pump outlet ports.)

I have now replaced the hoses from the pump motors to the non-return valves
with good rubber tubing: the old tubing (of the plastic, wine-making
variety) seemed loose on the motor fittings.

I will tell more when I know more.

Two tips:

- The "nuts" that hold the reservoir to the inner fender have a knurled
outside that stops them turning, so loosen from the bolt-head end!

- The port of the power (headlight) washer is fragile, and the 10 mm hose
was firmly attached to it.  If you need to get the reservoir out, cut the
hose in some convenient place.  Then, when you put the reservoir back in,
use a piece of copper tubing between the two pieces of the hose.

...chris haslam
Montreal, Canada

------------------------------

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