Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Date: Tue, 19 Dec 95 17:37:10 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: FW: Series 1 for sale

----------
From:  Mark Talbot
Sent:  Monday, December 18, 1995 1:12 PM
Subject:  Series 1 for sale

All, 

I have come across a nice S1 for sale, early 80 " with small instrument panel. 
Think it's a 52-53. The guy is asking $2500. What do you guys think. It has a 
hard top wit tailgate and lift up hatch. Bronze green, new frame, tank, 16" 
wheels etc. very nice, few dents ere and there, but what do you expect for a 
50's Land Rover

Any feed back would be helpful from S1 owners in the states

Mark

------------------------------

From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Range Rover fuel tank sender
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 1995 13:39:21 GMT

I'm having problems with my fuel tank sender ('85 petrol carb Rangie)
Despite changing the sender, I still get a gauge reading 2/3 full for
a ful tank and empty for 1/4 full. I can't get the "almost empty"
warning light either.

Does anyone know what the correct sender resistances should be for
full, empty and almost empty ?  The Repair Ops Manual doesn't list
them anywhere I've seen.  

My sender is the type with a separate contact for "almost empty", but
there's no connection in the loom for it. The warning light on the
dash is driven by a control unit that compares the sender resistance
to a threshold value. If I fiddle about with shorting wires, I can get
full tank and almost empty warnings on the dash, but I can't do this
with the sender connected, even if I move the float by hand.

Yes, the earth wire to the sender unit is good.

Incidentally, if anyone else needs to change sender units, you'll need
to special spanner to undo the bayonet fit locking ring. You can make
your own very easily by taking the box spanner for the hub bearing
nuts and sawing three notches into the rear end of it - the tube is
just the right diameter.

I did find (after three failed attempts) that you _can't_ change
sender units without taking the tank off. You need to fit the sender
to the tank on the bench, carefully checking that the locking lugs
aren't bent and are clamping the rubber seal ring properly. Otherwise
it leaks the first time you fil the tank to the brim.

--
Andy Dingley                          dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk                                          

A Happy New Year to all our readers !

------------------------------

Date: 30 Dec 95 12:19:59 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: 88 RR: Self-emptying washer fluid reservoir

A common but not-so-well-known RR quirk. The (large) headlamp washer pump
is prone to leaking (design flaw) in the sense that the valve inside doesn't
close completely, and you constantly have a small amount of fluid dribbling
from the jets/nozzles on the fenders/bumpers. That's why you usually don't
notice the real source of the mysterious 'vanishing washer fluid' - the
trickle can be so slight that fluid evaporates in summer before leaving any
noticeable wet areas, and in autumn/winter when the vehicle is wet/damp most
of the time anyway, you wouldn't notice either. Quick fix: Put a small clamp
on the headlamp washer hose and disconnect (and insulate) the electrical leads
from the big washer pump. This will leave you without lamp washer action but
save you from having to fill the reservoir every other day...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Dec 1995 18:25:34 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: ROAV sun visors

David Olley wrote about sun visors:

>>  for the record, how were the ones finished 20-30 years ago.  painting
>>i assume.  the limestone white, or the body color.  enquiring minds
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>        Paint it limestone!
>Tel: +44(0)1962-840769      Fax : +44(0)1962-867367

I always thought the tropical roofs were ivory in the S I and SII, limestone 
only came with the SIII.  And that would not be above the waist, either, but 
just the roof, not the superstructure. Probably wrong! Anybody know?
Have a good 1996, and may this be our biggest problem!
Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W

------------------------------

Date: 30 Dec 95 12:52:56 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Rodent in '93 County

>to several other Range Rover owners in the area. Furthermore, I was also told
>that this is not a scenario covered under my warranty and that it entails over 
>10 hours of labor at $60.00 an hour (apparently the engine needs to be removed).

Hmmp, dealers...
Well, I wouldn't want to rule out the possibility of critters in your heater,
but they only could've gotten in there from the *inside* of the vehicle.
There is truly, absolutely no way anything larger than an flea can get into
a RR's heating/vent system from the outside or the engine bay. Ask the dealer
to show/demonstrate to you in a feasible way how this should at all be
possible. As for the engine removal crap - *all* of the RR's ventilation/
heating/air ducts/fans/heater matrix/etc./whatever is located *inside* the
vehicle *behind* the fire wall. Removing the engine in order to work on the
heating system is about as neccessary as drilling a hole in your foot.
The only labour-intensive work involved is pulling out and reassembling
the entire front panel w/dash, 'louvres', tray etc. But anyone who has done
this a couple of times wouldn't need more than, say, 3 hours all told. Add
another hour for actually clearing and cleaning up the system, and that
should be it. By all means get a second or third opinion on this before
you give away money for nothing...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: "geoffrey.m.halaburt"
Date: 30 Dec 95 14:22:43 
Subject: re:Rear rack vs. roof rack

Barnett writes about his quest for storage....  Here are two ideas:

** The first I saw in use last Fall on a D110 in Moab, UT.  It was very well 
equipped for expeditioning, but unfortunately I didn't get a chance to talk 
with the owner.  It had the (Rovers North, I think) hood-mount spare setup.  
With the spare gone from the back door, it had a special (custom?) steel 
box-like affair mounted at the rear.  It was holding 1 (or was it 2?) jerry 
cans plus a bunch of tow rope and other tools.  On the D90 softtop, you could 
probably rig something like that to the swing-away tire mount.

** The Rovers North "D90 Safari Roof Rack" shown on page 2 of their '96 parts & 
accessories catalog looks very good.  It is about 1/2 the length of the roof 
and mounts on the front rollcage above the doors.  If my experience with the 
dealer-bought Thule crossbars (for bikes, etc.) is an indicator, this is an 
exceptionally strong setup and yet is relatively easy to remove (unlike the new 
rack #LRNA90FSRR shown in the D90-SW brochure).  With this you could mount 
jerry cans, hi-lift jack, etc. up top or put the spare up there and setup a 
"box" in the rear like I mentioned in idea #1 to keep the cans/tools more 
easily accessible.

I'm pondering all the same things for my new D90-SW (replaced a '94 
D90-softtop), so keep us posted.

-Geoff
(geoffrey.m.halaburt)
San Anselmo, CA, USA
'95 D90-SW (#167/500)

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 1995 15:57:21 -0500
Subject: Re: TICKING IN A 2.25 Petrol

>>However,
the ticking stops under heavy acceleration and worsens upon deceleration

A regular "ticking" doesn't quite fit, but your acceleration/decceleration
symptom might point to the timing chain, a traditionally weak-point in LR's
if your oil pressure isn't up to snuff.  Put a timing light on it, and if the
mark jumps around on decceleration (just goose the linkage), it's the chain.
- Tony

------------------------------

From: Landy88@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 1995 16:10:31 -0500
Subject: Ticking in LR 2.25

Thanks, I figured it was the tappets.....For the same logic Duncan used.
 Just didn't want to put the estimated $1000 into it if I was not sure....I'm
about 1000 miles from my tools and shop in Ga.  Plus Mass winters aren't
great working environments this time of year without a good shop.

Any suggestions on Series mechanics in western Mass or nearby?  My current
mechanic is great with Jags and RRs, but hasn't much experience with Series
trucks.  Seems to think it will require engine removal.....I've heard both
ways.  Any experience here?  How major is the overhaul?  I've put about three
and 1/2 years into the resto so far, but all I've done to the engine is have
the valves and head done and done a bore inspection.  Again, the engine only
has 39k miles.  

Is it possible to change the tappets without removal of anything but the
head/manifolds?  Should I go ahead and replace the cam bearings?  Should I
put in a small block chevy? (Just for reaction........I'll die first).

Where is the best source of supply for interior parts?  I need some of the
interior panels for the hardtop.  Mine were refininshable, but the backing
boards got wet and warped.

Thanks for all your help.......... 

------------------------------

From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 1995 16:24:19 -0500
Subject: Critters and Miscellaneous

The thread about rodents hits home for me.  The first winter I had my Jeep
GC, I turned the heater fan on high and heard a scurrying noise and then a
ka-chunk, followed by rough running of the fan.  I had a sinking feeling that
something with four legs had just met his/her demise in my new Jeep!  I took
it to the dealer quite a while later(heater still worked) and told them it
was probably going to be a body recovery job-they came back and told me that
they found 1/2 a rat in the heating duct, but they couldn't find the other!
 Another reason to sell the damn thing-maybe the new owner has found/smelled
it by now!
2.)  I also need to patch the aluminum seat base on the drivers side in the
back bottom corner where the seat belt connects.  Any thoughts/experiences
would be helpful!
3.)  Discovery rear bumper strength:  I was backing out of our garage a
couple of months ago(too embarassed to admit it to the list 'til now!) and
backed right into my parked Kubota diesel tractor, almost tipping it onto its
side.  My wife's bumper ended up with  a reversed raeydooG imprinted on it
with a cracked turn signal(the one in the bumper).  Repair was $78 for the
turn signal at the dealer.  I asked them afterwards why they could just
replace the light lens(lights worked fine) and it turns out that LR only
supplies the whole unit.  Didn't even get the old assembly back!
4.)  Can someone tell me what the largest tires I can fit on my '87 RR with
the OME springs-I want something a little larger.
5.)  Just purchased a pair of Hella Rallye 3000 lights for the RR.  Atlantic
British wanted $349 for the pair.  The local VIP Dicount Auto store had them
for $112/each.  I'll let you know how they are when I hook them up!

Sorry for all the bandwith, 
Cheers!  John Cassidy Bangor, Maine

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Dec 1995 17:53:09
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re: looking for 109 frame

>Hi
> I am Rob & new to this digest.  However as I have never found any
>Land Rover owner who would refuse to help another owner with a 
>problem. 
> I hope some one out there will be able to help me. My father owns 

>a 1968 109 three door land rover which needs a frame badly. (not 
>drivable)  This is more then just a project needing parts. I am 
>using this project to get my Father busy after a stroke this year. 

>Money is tight for me and I need to locate & purchase a useable 
>used frame that I can repair for his LR. This will keep him active 

>for atleast the coming year.  If anyone knows where I could locate 

>a frame please email me with. as much information as you have. I 
>know that new frames are available but they are to expensive at 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Regards & thanks
> Rob      

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 1995 17:51:40 -0500
Subject: Caulk: The electron peacekeeper?

I'm replacing my rusted out toolbox with a new galvinized replacement.  After
removing the old one, I've cleaned the aluminium but I'm wondering if I can
caulk the edges before riveting in the new toolbox.  Does silicone caulk
effectively form a barrier between the two and prevent corrosion?

------------------------------

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 1995 17:54:21 -0500
Subject: Caulk and battling electrons

Sorry, I accidently sent out the previous caulking question before I signed
it.

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD USA 21020
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Dec 1995 18:19:01
From: CarDoctor@gnn.com (Robert Davis)
Subject: Re: looking for 109 frame

>Hi
> I am Rob & new to this digest.  However as I have never found any
>Land Rover owner who would refuse to help another owner with a 
>problem. 
> I hope some one out there will be able to help me. My father owns 

>a 1968 109 three door land rover which needs a frame badly. (not 
>drivable)  This is more then just a project needing parts. I am 
>using this project to get my Father busy after a stroke this year. 

>Money is tight for me and I need to locate & purchase a useable 
>used frame that I can repair for his LR. This will keep him active 

>for atleast the coming year.  If anyone knows where I could locate 

>a frame please email me with. as much information as you have. I 
>know that new frames are available but they are to expensive at 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
> Regards & thanks
> Rob      

------------------------------

From: Softy90@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 1995 19:43:29 -0500
Subject: Real World Sighting...a 110 & a 90

I just saw a Def 110, #238/500, and a 95 Def90, yellow with plastic hardtop,
here in my hometown of Madison Wisconsin, up at a hotel on the square by the
capitol building.  Both had Pennsylvania plates.  Any one know who? And if
they are list members?  probably not reading list since theyre out of town
now.  But boy, what a coincedence,  a  Defender Hootenany... The carparker
said the same guy owns both, his brother is driving the 110, he was in the
new defender.  

I need a ride in that hardtop model, gotta see how much quieter it REALLY is
than the soft top. And I'd love all those fancy-assed (plushmobile??)
features that the 95's have, like map pockets in the doors, keyed entry for
the rear (ouch...), and doors that actually stay open instead of swinging
back and severing feet at the ankles...

John
1994 Defender90, softtop in Wisc.

PS...we just got a skiff of snow, boy is it slick out there, think I'll go
out for a ride...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Dec 1995 21:27:24 -0500 (EST)
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@synapse.net>
Subject: Paris Dakar & LR's

        
The Paris-Dakar race has started and there are at least three LR's in it,
two from France and one from Spain.

The Web page for the race is   www.dakar.com/

			Rick Grant

rgrant@synapse.net			1959, 88" SII
Ottawa, Canada

------------------------------

Date: 30 Dec 95 23:19:10 EST
From: Mark Ritter <70472.1130@compuserve.com>
Subject: Disco winch bumpers

Anybody out there have a replacment winchmount/bumper on their Disco? I know of
3 that are made. ARB, TJM and Safari Gard. I just bought a Superwinch X9000 for
$430 new in the box and it nees a home on the front of the Disco. I'm looking
for comments on the various products available. I know that I do not want to
mount it behind the stock bumper as I do not want to alter the stock bumper
(just remove it), and I want it more accesable that with a "hidden mount". Any
advice would be appreciated.

								Mark Ritter 

------------------------------

Date: 30 Dec 95 23:19:08 EST
From: Mark Ritter <70472.1130@compuserve.com>
Subject: Safari Gard Rock Sliders

I finally got the Rock sliders in just the other day. They are very high quality
and the holes matched up perfectly with the ones used to mount the plastic sill
"protection". Once installed it is hard to tell a difference in appearence from
stock. I got the ones that protude about 1" out from the door as this gives a
bit more protection without being noticeable. I can vouch for their strength as
I slid the Disco down a bank into a river on the left one during a trail ride on
Friday. No damage and the Slider didn't even budge(this was intentionally done
to cross the river, deep and cold!) They provide great protection for the lower
doors and the lower back edge of the front fenders which are VERY vulnerable.
The only downside is that the installation is time consuming unless you have a
tool to compress the very big rivnuts that go into the holes in order to provide
threads for the attaching bolts. Count on a few bashed knuckles. If you do mail
order from Safari Gard be patient. It is a small company and everthing is made
to order so don't expect your order to show up in a couple of weeks.

								Mark Ritter
								94 Disco w/
								lots of goodies.
								Winch is next!

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 16 lines 570 [forwarded 58 whitespace 141]
 Output: lines 519 [content 273  forwarded 42 (cut  16) whitespace 136]

	
    Forward
	


	
    
          
	



Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.