Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents


[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

msgSender linesSubject
1 pmarx@netcom.com 35kerosene on the debate...
2 Mark Perry [rxq281@freen22windshield washers
3 Lloyd Allison [lloyd@cs.19stripped Disco
4 NADdMD@aol.com 25Electrochemistry: Friend or Foe?
5 "John C. White, III" [jc22Re: kerosene on the debate...
6 w1eox@ix.netcom.com (Yve40rodents at play
7 Ross Leidy [ross@secant.30Re: kerosene on the debate...
8 LTC Larry Smith [smithla25 Tire Wear
9 "barnett childress" [bar46re:Rear rack v.s roof rack
10 "barnett childress" [bar17re:rodents at play
11 "Craig R. Jett" [cjett@v28RE: CD Player for 95 Disco
12 Martin_Eglitis@nih.gov (23Re: LRNA Disdain
13 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE27Re: Frame welding
14 russ burns [burns@cisco.24re:Rear rack v.s roof rack
15 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE23Re: Electrochemistry: Friend or Foe?
16 russ burns [burns@cisco.17Sir Lamplighter (dixon)
17 "CLAVEN" [CLAVEN.Y#u#CNC48verify addresses and resend
18 fv67@dial.pipex.com 16discovery radio/Cas
19 Mark Perry [rxq281@freen26Canadian Ser1 & Fuel filler
20 fv67@dial.pipex.com 16discovery radio/Cas
21 owner-lro-digest@uk.stra6 The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
22 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em13re:rodents at play
23 "barnett childress" [bar10re:Racks
24 tdj@fore.com (Tom Des Ja36Re: kerosene on the debate...
25 Jack Stansbury [jack@eco36Seat Frame Breaking
26 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em14Re: Frame welding
27 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em52Re: Sir Lamplighter (dixon)
28 "barnett childress" [bar30re:More on dealers
29 STEVE COX [Steve_Cox@Del20Rover for sell in NC
30 William Owen [ib011ca@sm14 Good dealers
31 "Robert Watson (CNA)" [a22RE: rodents at play
32 "Robert Watson (CNA)" [a31RE: kerosene on the debate...
33 rpeng@cadev6.intel.com 31Re: Disco pricing redux and yuppies...
34 Jim Edwards [edwardsj@oh18PTFE oil additives
35 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em16Re: Disco pricing redux and yuppies...
36 Ross Leidy [ross@secant.20Re: Disco pricing redux and yuppies...
37 "Bror 'Count' Heinola" [47Re: rodents at play [take 2]
38 Russell U Wilson [ruwst+6SOLD++ 1970 light wht for sale in Pa.
39 ASFCO@aol.com 11Russell U Wilson
40 Gary Mitchelson [garym@c23[not specified]
41 ASFCO@aol.com 7Russ Wilson.. Please disregard
42 Magnet [magnet@io.org> 62Rodent in 93 Cty Heater
43 smitha@candw.lc 33Re: pricing ..
44 David Rosenbaum [rosenba36re:Rear rack v.s roof rack
45 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em34Re: pricing ..
46 "John C. White, III" [jc26re:Rear rack v.s roof rack
47 "John C. White, III" [jc19re:More on dealers
48 "John C. White, III" [jc15Re: Disco pricing redux and yuppies...
49 KKelly6788@aol.com 20Range Rover Power Seat Switches
50 KKelly6788@aol.com 21Range Rover Headlight Washers
51 KKelly6788@aol.com 18Hi-Lift Jack on Yakima Racks
52 Landy88@aol.com 21TICKING IN A 2.25 Petrol
53 Landy88@aol.com 28TO Barnett Childress
54 Robert Dennis [73363.42739Frame welding
55 jpappa01@interserv.com 29Re: Engines & stuff


------------------------------ [ Message 1 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: pmarx@netcom.com
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 00:01:25 -0800
Subject: kerosene on the debate...

Dear Folk:

Owning a Disco has been one of the great joys of this last year...until 
earlier today. 

I happened to have lunch in a badly infested area (with yup's) of Santa 
Monica (California) this afternoon and parked directly in front of a 
brand-new (sparkling!) Beluga Black 1996 Discovery. A well-dressed couple 
and a nicely groomed Labrador Retriever (accessory?) were getting out at 
the same time I was pulling up.

It turns out they bought their car two days ago, love it dearly (more 
than their Porsche) and had the wood panelling installed yesterday.

Wood Panelling??!!!

Inside a Land Rover?!

Waaaaa! Eeeek! (and various other caterwallings!)

It looked just like a Jag...only about three feet higher off the ground!

Maybe the Series owners will take an embarrassed Disco owner into their 
ranks...? Please?

Peter Marx

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
- - - 

------------------------------
[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 03:27:46 -0600 (CST)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: windshield washers

Alan Richer's account of windshield washer installation parallels mine, 
though I used a tank/pump ass'y from a Suzuki Samurai I got at a 
wrecker's yard for $5. Could be same or similar as used in Toyota. I first 
used the spray head from the Suzuki set in 
the bonnet but the angle was bad, so I went to Genuine Parts spray 
nozzles which I drilled for and mounted in the windscreen frame as per 
SerIII. With push button on dash, all works great. In Winnipeg, in fall 
and spring especially, there are times when it's asking for trouble not to 
have a windscreen washer setup. You can lose vision in seconds in muddy 
spray in traffic. A must-have here. Of course, I still have the Lucas 
wiper motors and dinky blades to operate ...

Regards,

Mark Perry   Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop 
"Yes, I can see quite well over the spare tire."

------------------------------
[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 21:44:22 +1100 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: stripped Disco

In high taxing Europe there is a (really stripped)
commercial Discovery:
   http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/Landy/Disco.com.html
   - thanks to Tony Luckwill

Dealers and old Landies:
   in a dealer's in Melbourne, next to the new Disco and Rangie
   on the showroom floor, is one of the company's old Landies,
   this one a 1948 (not for sale).
   They are always very polite and courteous when they take your money!

Lloyd

~

------------------------------
[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 08:39:53 -0500
Subject: Electrochemistry: Friend or Foe?

Hi all,

I've come to a place in my restoration where I need imput.  How do people
patch/repair or otherwise deal with the corrosion around bolt holes in the
aluminium sheet metal?  Can I just place a large (preferably) aluminium
washer on the bolt before replacement?  What about structural integrity?

Secondly, does anyone have a solution to replace the aluminium plate on the
underside of the top section of the front fenders to which the steel mud
shields bolt?  I have thought of brazing a replacement aluminium plate to the
cleaned but corroded old plate, but I am not sure it would hold.  

All suggestions and comments are welcome
Thanks for the help

Nate Dunsmore
Rocking Horse Farm
Boring, MD USA 21020
NADdMD@aol.com

------------------------------
[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 05:50:17 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: kerosene on the debate...

Okay.  I confess.  (Sob!)  I too have wood paneling in my Discovery, but it
was already installed when I bought it.  I told the dealer I didn't want it,
but he said that they couldn't take it out.  At least they gave it to me for
free.  Doesn't seem to hurt the off-road performance any, and it lulls any
passengers into a false sense of well-being.  (It looks just like a Jaguar!)

Cheers!
John
'95 Discovery (Who dresses you?  Your mom?)

At 00:01 28.12.95 -0800, pmarx@netcom.com wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Dear Folk:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 38 lines)]
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
>- - - 
>( just a couple of bits coming your way. )

------------------------------
[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 06:10:46 -0800
From: w1eox@ix.netcom.com (Yves  Feder)
Subject: rodents at play

Actually rodents getting into heating systems is a pretty common occurence
(at least here in New England when fall turns abruptly to winter...!) Have
had it happen several times in BOTH our Subaru Legacy 4X4 wagons, as tightly
built as these mini-plushwagons are :)

Field mice can squeeze through the tinest of openings... amazing actually.

You do want to get them out before the - ahem - smell gets too bad.
In our 1963 Series 109, the problem has never occurred but in the Subarus
it's almost a procedure I look 4WD to every fall.... 

and all it involves is dropping the (aptly named) squirrel cage blower from 
its housing in the vent plenum where the li'l micey guys like to make their
nests (you'll find fur, straw, wood chips, etc.etc.) and clean the thing out.

In most cars one can get to this stuff from inside the passenger compartment.
An hour's work at most, including disassembly, cleaning, removing and
reattaching the blower wiring harness, and putting the interior panels back.

To remove the engine (!!!!!) and charge for ten hours work to do this?!?!?

I can't believe that even on a Rangie this would be the case.

Look for a second opinion, or alternatively don't be afraid to tackle the
job yourself. It's no biggie, and have pity on the poor li'l critters who
need the warmth your engine/heater provides after you park it and go inside.....

Good luck...

Yves
1963 Ser IIa 109 3/4t trucque
Yves Albert (Al "Al") Feder
w1eox@ix.netcom.com
Harpsichord Workshops and Recording Studios
"Danged if'n I unnerstand all I know"

------------------------------
[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Ross Leidy <ross@secant.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 95 09:21:34 0500
Subject: Re: kerosene on the debate...

On 12/28/95 at 05:50 AM, "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
penned:

>Okay.  I confess.  (Sob!)  I too have wood paneling in my Discovery,
>but it was already installed when I bought it.  I told the dealer I
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>performance any, and it lulls any passengers into a false sense of
>well-being.  (It looks just like a Jaguar!)

>Cheers!
>John
>'95 Discovery (Who dresses you?  Your mom?)

Don't underestimate the appeal of real wood.  Any LRO whose
vehicle is a bit more spartan than the Disco could easily
increase the value of  the vehicle and add to its aesthetic
qualities simply by bolting  a 4 foot length of 2x4 to the dash. 
Choose a stain color to complement the interior, and coat with a
good polyurethane (2 coats if you expect to be submerged).  ;)

______________________________________________________ Ross
Leidy  (ross@secant.com)
Secant Technologies, Inc.
95 NAS D90

------------------------------
[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date:     Thu, 28 Dec 95 9:43:03 EST (1443Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Tire Wear

To all,

I am getting uneven wear on the outer edge of the left front tire on my SWB
Series III petrol.  Vehicle has 117,000 PLUS miles.  At first I thought it
might be the alignment (toe in), because I am getting some minor wear on the
right also.  However, the left is now really being eaten up.  Occurs both with
and without the freewheeling hubs engaged.

Before I tackle track rod ends, swivel joints, shim plates, etc. as a whole,
does anyone have a specific area I should look at first?  Hubs are a recent
(10,000 miles +/-) replacement and appear to be in good shape.  Wrong preload?

The tire appears to "layover" quite a bit when turned to the left.  Don't have
the same amount of "layover" on the right when turned to the right.

Thanks in advance your help/suggestions.

'til later,

Larry

------------------------------
[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 95 10:05:56 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Rear rack v.s roof rack

Hi all,

I have been thinking of different ways to carry a Hi-lift jack, shovel, 
Max Axe, Pull Pal, and extra fuel in or on my D90. Inside space is pretty 
tight especially sense I'm planning to install two inward facing bench 
seats, and some sort of a storage locker for tools, winch kit, oil, Etc. I 
was thinking of having a rear rack made that would bolt onto the spare 
tire carrier where the wheel bolts up and would be removable. This would 
give me a place to carry two 5 gallon cans on either side of the tire, and 
the Hi-lift jack and shovel across the back.

A few recent posts have mentioned a full roof rack that bolts up to the 
roll cage on the D90. I would like your thoughts and some advice on the 
following;

1) - Which rack do you think would be better, and why? The rear rack would 
be removable but the roof rack would be permanent.

2) - I know the roof rack would increase the possibility of tipping, and 
reduce the angle that could be safely traversed on a side hill, but does 
anyone know how much? I don't think having the extra weight on the back of 
the vehicle would make any difference in this regard.

3) - Does a roof rack add a lot of noise when driving on the highway? I 
have to travel 70 miles a day to work. Again, the rear rack would be 
removable but even if left on I don't think noise would be any different.

Any comments or opinions would be greatly appreciated. I was all set to 
start the fabrication until I saw the roof rack posts.

Thanks, and waiting for your replies.

Barnett Childress

95 AA yellow D90
Superwinch Husky 8 winch/HD bumper (Camel Trophy setup).
OME HD suspension.
ARB air lockers.
Soon to have rear seats, and some kind of rack! 

4) -   

------------------------------
[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 95 10:14:57 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:rodents at play

We had a similar problem in my wife's Toyota corolla. The mice had taken 
the insulation and completely blocked up the air vents. I cleaned out what 
I could reach but it didn't completely fix the problem. The dealer cost to 
have this fixed was very expensive due to the fact that they would have to 
completely dissemble the dash, very labor intensive.

The dealer told us it was a good idea to keep the circulator switch in the 
closed (recycle) position when the car was not being used.

Good luck,
Barnett
Childress

------------------------------
[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 10:20:32 -0500
From: "Craig R. Jett" <cjett@voicenet.com>
Subject: RE: CD Player for 95 Disco

Vince Bobba wrote:
"The Disco is already wired for this particular model, with what appears 
(to me)to be an oddball connector. "

I went down this path a month ago and this is what I found:

The model and "oddball" connector is actually an old Pioneer model that 
was last made in '93.

That old version CD player is no longer available, and there is not an 
adapter made to convert.

Looked into making a connector but could not get the schematics.

SO.... I bought the factory CD player, and paid through the nose.
Two pluses though:
1. Very easy to install - 5 minutes in the dark, with bitter cold was 
all it took.
2. Sounds great.

Good Luck!
Craig Jett
95 Alpine White Discovery

------------------------------
[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 10:35:05 -0500
From: Martin_Eglitis@nih.gov (Martin Eglitis)
Subject: Re: LRNA Disdain

To add my two cents to the response one gets from dealers; when I brought
my '94 Discovery in for its first service, the rear bumper was distinctly
bent and the beautiful Beluga black clear coat was attractively decorated
by forest pin striping. Anyway, when I went to pick it up, the service
manager asked "You've been offroad, haven't you?" sounding somewhat
surprised. When I admitted this, he continued: "You know, we've been
selling Range Rovers for 20 years, but the Discovery is attracting a very
different sort of customer. They actually seem to be taking them off-road!"
My point is, the dealer's attitudes are as much a product of the customer
as starting from within. Who knows, not withstanding the wood-trimmed
Discos we've been hearing about, maybe the dealers are going to evolve into
someone more in tune with the whole spectrum of LR uses?

BTW, with the clearcoat, the black buffed out beautifully, and gives one
all the more reason to add more pinstriping in the future.

Martin Eglitis
'94 Discovery

------------------------------
[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 09:41:14 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Frame welding

Sandy Grice asks:
Snip
> Several questions: To remove the wiring harness, are there Lucar connectors 
> somewhere, or do I have to disconnect at each light?  Also, is it better or 
> easier to do lap welds or butt welds?
Snip
I don't recall about the connectors, but memory tells me there aren't 
any. If it were me  I'd go with the butt weld, but I used to be a professional 
weldor. However, you may be more satisfied with the lap weld. It will 
be easier. Make sure the base metal is melting so you don't get cold 
lap (where the filler just sits on the base metal).  Watch out for 
the zinc fumes. With  mig be sure to weld only bare metal for the best 
weld.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 07:42:48 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: re:Rear rack v.s roof rack

Barnett,

I made a carrier for my D-90. I tried to fit the jerry cans on the side,
but could not get the door to open correctly. I ended up building a rack
off the back of the spare
        ___
        T  |
        I  |
        R_ |
        E  |________

I used some foam to eliminiate chafing on the spare tire, and bolted 
the rack to the tire with a "big" bolt.

Russ

Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------
[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 09:47:56 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Electrochemistry: Friend or Foe?

Nate Dunsmore asks:
Snip
> Secondly, does anyone have a solution to replace the aluminium plate on the
> underside of the top section of the front fenders to which the steel mud
> shields bolt? snip

I must do the same thing on mine. Any decent sheetmetal shop should 
be able to spot weld on new ones. Although I'm considering deviating 
from the original and riveting on SS ones.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 07:48:46 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Sir Lamplighter (dixon)

Sir Lamplighter....,

I got my ovlr news letter yesterday, and heard a couple of lines on
how you won the illustrious lug nut award. Pray tell, is backing over
lamp poles a sport north of the border??. Down in the deep south Michigan
we do have a rural hobby of knocking over mailboxes with the bumper.
I realize that mailboxes would not be much of a challenge for macho drivers
equiped with a Land Rover. Now lamp poles... that could be interesting.

Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------
[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: 28 Dec 1995 07:48:15 U
From: "CLAVEN" <CLAVEN.Y#u#CNC@claven.llnl.gov>
Subject: verify addresses and resend

Mail*Link(r) SMTP               The Land Rover Owner Daily 
!!!! Original Message >= 24K; See following enclosure. Preview follows !!!!

Land-Rover-Owner List &  Land Rover Owner Daily Digest List

Send submissions to the list to:	lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net

To UNSUBSCRIBE send a message to:		MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
	with the text:				unsubscribe lro-digest
	
Tell your friends SUBSCRIBE send a message to:	MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
with the text:					subscribe lro-digest

Majordomo can also respond to other commands, send text:	help

	  Contents:
  1 fv67@dial.pipex.com Sun Dec 24 03:17   28/968   discovery radio/Cas
  2 rxq281@freenet.mb.ca Sun Dec 24 03:41   39/2036  Canadian Ser1 & Fuel fill
  3 fv67@dial.pipex.com Sun Dec 24 03:43   28/968   discovery radio/Cas
  4 omont@mnl.sequel.net Sun Dec 24 05:22   29/1165  Merry Christmas
  5 igor@tinet.ch      Sun Dec 24 06:47   33/1436  Merry Christmas from Swit
  6 burns@cisco.com    Sun Dec 24 12:07   50/2502  Merry Christmas
  7 burns@cisco.com    Sun Dec 24 12:07   50/2540  Merry Christmas
  8 burns@cisco.com    Sun Dec 24 12:16   34/1653  Re: 	D90 SW
  9 102505.3511@compuserve.com Sun Dec 24 12:50   29/1469  Salesmen
 10 wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us Sun Dec 24 14:24   42/2031  Re: Merry
Christmas from 
 11 avdende@nik.publishnet.nl Sun Dec 24 14:52   36/1466  Bulk
 12 71643.2453@compuserve.com Sun Dec 24 15:50   30/1596  Why Buy a RR 4.0 SE
 13 CpaulP@aol.com     Sun Dec 24 16:17   19/1035  Re: The Land Rover Owner 
 14 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com Sun Dec 24 16:29   59/2801  Re:
Salesmen
 15 Sanna@aol.com      Sun Dec 24 16:52   28/1615  Re: Why Buy a RR 4.0 SE
 16 dplace@SIRNet.mb.ca Sun Dec 24 17:55   34/2190  silver plate
 17 jcwhite3@well.com  Sun Dec 24 18:36   78/3711  Re: Salesmen
 18 BobandSueB@aol.com Sun Dec 24 18:38   27/1166  Washer fluid and wives
 19 smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil Sun Dec 24 20:26   38/2266  Re:  Salesmen
 20 burns@cisco.com    Sun Dec 24 22:12   61/2761  Re: Why Buy a RR 4.0 SE
 21 swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu Sun Dec 24 22:58   45/1868  Happy Christmas to
Everyo
 22 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com Mon Dec 25 00:31   34/1740  Re:
silver plate
 23 JFisk1120@aol.com  Mon Dec 25 01:53   36/1970  "My Rover Trips"

------------------------------
[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: fv67@dial.pipex.com
Subject: discovery radio/Cas
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 1995 08:12:42 GMT

Help

ive just brought a 1992 five door discovery but the radio just shows
154.

any ideas. ive got the code but how do i program it in???

happy christmass

andy waples

------------------------------
[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Sun, 24 Dec 1995 02:41:47 -0600 (CST)
From: Mark Perry <rxq281@freenet.mb.ca>
Subject: Canadian Ser1 & Fuel filler

I've been unsubscribed and out of touch with the digest for a bit, but LRO
Intl mag can't fill all the needs. Speaking of LRO Intl mag, I noticed in
the current Readers' Rovers section a pic of a Series 1 with cut-back
front wings, which were said to make it look like a version "used by the
Canadian army." Is this so and who knows what about these models (Dixon
K?) and have any survived? I also noticed in same issue that Canadian
UNPROFOR contingent in Bosnia have been using three of the Courtlands
composite-armored LRs. Probably some of the better kit our guys have,
especially compared to the Iltis. The new Western Star trucks are no great
shakes either, so one of the troops told me.
 I'm still looking for the telescopic filler extension, p/n 504656 for my
88" IIA. Local LROs, Octopus and Paul Safari couldn't turn one up for me
here in Canada. Does anyone out there have one? It's no longer available
as a separate item from Genuine Parts. Name your price. I have a few
swappable parts also, if anyone's looking for something. 

Regards

Mark Perry   Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
1966 Ser.IIA 88 Petrol Hardtop 
"Yes, I can see quite well over the spare tire."

------------------------------
[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: fv67@dial.pipex.com
Subject: discovery radio/Cas
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 1995 08:40:33 GMT

Help

ive just brought a 1992 five door discovery but the radio just shows
154.

any ideas. ive got the code but how do i program it in???

happy christmass

andy waples

------------------------------
[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Sun, 24 Dec 1995 18:15
------------------ RFC822 Header Follows ------------------
transfer.stratus.com (8.7.1/8.6.11) with ESMTP id EAA21016; Mon, 25 Dec 1995
04:06:07 -0500 (EST)
CAA10863 for lro-digest-outgoing; Mon, 25 Dec 1995 02:55:04 -0500
Date: Mon, 25 Dec 1995 02:55:04 -0500
From: owner-lro-digest@uk.stratus.com
Errors-To: Owner-LRO@uk.stratus.com
Precedence: 	bulk
Subject: 	The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

------------------------------
[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 10:50:13 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: re:rodents at play

On Thu, 28 Dec 1995, barnett childress wrote:

> We had a similar problem in my wife's Toyota corolla. The mice had taken 
> the insulation and completely blocked up the air vents. I cleaned out what 
> I could reach but it didn't completely fix the problem. 

	My experience with Series LR's is that mice leave the air system 
	alone.  However, they do love the area behind the dash.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 95 10:57:40 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:Racks

Thanks Russ,
I had not thought about the changing angles when you open the door and the 
tire carrier pivots. Would locating the cans a little farther out on the 
sides also solve this?
Barnett.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 95 10:56:49 EST
From: tdj@fore.com (Tom Des Jardins)
Subject: Re: kerosene on the debate...

<snip>
>Don't underestimate the appeal of real wood.  Any LRO whose
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>Choose a stain color to complement the interior, and coat with a
>good polyurethane (2 coats if you expect to be submerged).  ;)

Not only snobby, but US centric too.  <Wink, Grin>  That should be 1.25m
length of 5cm x 10cm, harvested from an environmentally managed new growth
forest and varnished using renewable resources such as di-hydrogen oxide,
with extremly low VOC's (asymptotically approaching zero in it's pure
form).

I actually have applied wood to my Disco, (a black beluga, fwiw) and found
that the sticks are a real pain to remove from the grill, however the twigs
etc. after polishing the sides, make a wonderful statement if left wedged
into the rain gutter!

The fellow I bought my Disco from (via the dealer) had every option known
to man installed (except the leather seats thankfully) including tinting
the windows, the brush bars, the rear jump seats, the dual sunroofs, the cd
player and the extra AC.  He then traded it in after 10 months & 11K miles
and I bought it at what I thought was a good price (30k).  This supports
the general statments on the list, let the yuppies by them and drive them
'till they're bored, it gives us thrifty folk a good supply of quality used
vehicles.

ttfn,

Tom Des Jardins, Inbound Technology Group
FORE Systems (412)635-3374  FAX 635-3333 url http://www.fore.com
5800 Corporate Drive, Pittsburgh, PA 15237-5829

------------------------------
[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 95 11:07:12 EST
From: Jack Stansbury <jack@eco.twg.com>
Subject: Seat Frame Breaking

This is my first submission to the Land Rover mailing list. From reading it for 
awhile, I see there are lots of people that love these machines!

My wife and I bought a 96 Discovery about a month ago. At the time of delivery, 
the frame underneath the driver's seat was cracked. The cracks were around one 
of the screws that holds the front of the frame to the floor. When we pointed 
this out to the salesperson (Tischer in Laurel, Maryland), they said they hadn't 
seen that before, but that they would fix it. They actually replaced it with one 
from a floor model. 

Well, we have now had this seat frame replaced three times, and it's broken 
again! Has anyone else seen this, or does anyone have any idea why this keeps 
happening? I think the base of the frame may not be sitting level on the floor, 
so when they screw it down, it cracks the plastic. I have mentioned this to the 
salesperson, but it still happens.

In addition, one of the little plastic "screws" that hold down the driver's side 
mat keeps breaking. We are on our third (fourth?) one of these also. I'm not 
sure if the two problems could be related, but they may be.

Any ideas?

Aside from this, and aside from the promises that the salesperson keeps making 
and breaking, we do love it! We are looking forward to taking it to West 
Virginia and other places where we never felt comfortable taking our cars 
before. It's too bad it was in the shop for another seat frame replacement when 
it snowed here last. Looking forward to the next snow!

Jack Stansbury
Rockville, Maryland
'96 Discovery 5-speed Avalon Blue (no name yet)

------------------------------
[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 11:12:28 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Frame welding

On Thu, 28 Dec 1995, Tom Rowe wrote:

> I don't recall about the connectors, but memory tells me there aren't 
> any. 

	If the harness is original (II/IIA) there should be connectors
	above the grommet where the harness emerges from the frame in
	the rear.  From there, two seperate bundles go up to the lights
	on either side.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 11:28:34 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Sir Lamplighter (dixon)

On Thu, 28 Dec 1995, russ burns wrote:

> I got my ovlr news letter yesterday, and heard a couple of lines on
> how you won the illustrious lug nut award. Pray tell, is backing over
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> I realize that mailboxes would not be much of a challenge for macho drivers
> equiped with a Land Rover. Now lamp poles... that could be interesting.

	The lamp post was more of a challenge.  Yes, up here, as in Michigan
	knocking off rural mailboxes is a sport for the local children.  
	However, as there are those who grow fatigued with replacing the
	box regularly, they have gone to welding it to a strong post.
	(Not too strong.  One chap up the valley got so sick of the
	kids blowing away his mail box, and the plough in the
	winter doing in the post he built a post/mailbox out of
	150 pound rail, sunk 8' into the ground, with a plate steel
	mailbox.  The mailbox was a success.  He found bits and pieces f 
	baseball bat around it one morning.  The post got him into a bit
	of trouble.  Seems the plough decided that it would be fun to
	blow away his post again that year.  Plough did at least one 360
	before ploughing into the ditch further down the road on the other
	side.  County was very unhappy with the chap.)  Because people
	are used to problems with mailboxes, they have taken protective
	measures of one sort or another.  Hence the kids use baseball
	bats, rather than actually drive into it.  (of course, a more
	common approach is welding the mailbox on a steel post and putting
	the steel post in a milk can full of concrete.  Wakes the plough
	driver up, but moves... :-)

	Now, my landlords lamppost was a piece of cake...  Didn't even mark
	the 109 when it hit.  Had to use a winch to pull it back up again
	though.  Was very happy when it actally worked (didn't break the wires
	underground)  How'd I do it?  Easy.  Hop in the 109 and back up.
	Figured that it was parked properly in the driveway (it wasn't)
	Backing straight out, it strayed from the intended course and kinda
	got slowed a bit.  Got it fixed in typical efficiency.  About 6
	weeks to do...  The rest of my achievements are lies, falsehoods,
	being framed, or honest mistakes.  Like, with a cooler full of beer
	on the floor next to you, relaxing in a lawnchair (only way to
	work on a LR), it is easy to put the front backing plates on the
	wrong sides...  Did catch it though...  I can tell the shoes apart
	which indicated that something might be wrong...  Justified Ted
	getting more beer, which is justifiable...  

	Rgds,

	PS,  Like Dale's welding techniques?  :-)

------------------------------
[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 95 11:29:42 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:More on dealers

Martin Eglitis writes;

The dealer was surprised that he went off road with his discovery.

I think he is right. The dealerships are dealing with a different type of 
customer than before. People are buying newer LR's with the intent of 
really going off-road. My dealer LRMW in Natick MA. realizes this and not 
only encourages people to explore their vehicles full potential, they also 
offer a full day of off-roading at a special course they have set up for 
free. 

I took them up on their offer and I was surpassed! The course was actually 
pretty good and definitely capable of putting a few dents in your new $30K 
LR. They covered rock crawling, steep hill climbs and decents, sand, mud, 
etc. 
They were there to guide people thru the rough spots and help out people 
that had never been off-roading before with gear selection etc.

There were mostly discovery's there but a few range rovers. I had the only 
defender!

If other dealers out there are not catering to their customers that really 
use their LR's, thats really to bad. 

Barnett 

------------------------------
[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 12:16:09 -0500 (EST)
From: STEVE COX <Steve_Cox@Delphi.Com>
Subject: Rover for sell in NC

Below is a nice sounding Rover in the NC area:

1968 Series IlA
Limestone. safari top, galvanized full rack, farley
overdrive. 8,000 lb worm drive Warn winch. new tires,
12-13,000 miles on rebuilt engine by HarrelI motors in
Waynesville NC.  16" wheels.  This Rover has bean well cared
for and is in good original condition. Has fuel tank leak
and one outrigger to be replaced. Rest of frame excellant.
Suspension and brakes excellent.  $6,500.00

Contact: Jody Kuhne
         123 Montford Avenue
         Asheville, NC 28801
         704-254-9482

------------------------------
[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 11:24:33 -0600
From: William Owen <ib011ca@smtpaoc.tsc.state.tn.us>
Subject:  Good dealers

Our LR dealer in Nashville actually includes an off road "course" as part
of their test drive.  They have been exceptionally nice to me despite the
fact I told them up front I might not buy for several months and even then
it will probably be a used vehicle. I got no sales pressure but I did get to
drive a new disco through ditches my Jeep would not have made and up
a 45 degree  hill in front of the dealer.  They are actually a bit proud of the
muddy tracks going up the hill.  I do wish the salesman knew more
technical info, especially about older RR's etc, but I was very pleased
with their attitude.  

------------------------------
[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: rodents at play
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 10:01:46 -0800

>Actually rodents getting into heating systems is a pretty common occurence
>(at least here in New England when fall turns abruptly to winter...!) Have
>had it happen several times in BOTH our Subaru Legacy 4X4 wagons, as 
tightly
>built as these mini-plushwagons are :)
>Field mice can squeeze through the tinest of openings... amazing actually.
>had it happen several times in BOTH our Subaru Legacy 4X4 wagons, as 
Couldn't you just let the cat sleep in the car at night? Certainly that 
would be cheaper than 10hrs of a LR mechanic's labor. :-) 
    _____
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |  _|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU

------------------------------
[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: kerosene on the debate...
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 10:53:32 -0800

>From: 	John C. White, III[SMTP:jcwhite3@well.com]
>Okay.  I confess.  (Sob!)  I too have wood paneling in my Discovery, but it
>was already installed when I bought it.  I told the dealer I didn't want 

it,
>but he said that they couldn't take it out.  At least they gave it to me 
for
>free.  Doesn't seem to hurt the off-road performance any, and it lulls any
>passengers into a false sense of well-being.  
Don't worry, John, I think your Expedition Rack cancels out any negative 
effects of the Wood Trim.
 
>(It looks just like a Jaguar!)
Right! A Discovery looks like a Jaguar like a VW Beetle looks like a Porshe. 
I don't care how much wood trim you have (inside or out!). 

Now there's a thought, wood paneling on the outside. A "woody" Disco! 
Perfect for surfing.
    _____
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |  _|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU

------------------------------
[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Subject: Re:  Disco pricing redux and yuppies...
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 95 9:33:53 PST

>>I asked my source inside LRNA why a stripped Disco isn't offered...one with
>>crank up windows, manual everything, no anti-lock brakes, etc. 

>I tend to agree with the LRNA "luxury" concept here.
>Granted the used
>sport ute market might be different from used luxo market, but it seems to me
>that people still will choose the more optioned-out car in the used market
>where the differences in price get smaller and smaller

I think the problem is not that only luxury sells. I believe a stripped-
down model will sell, PROVIDED that it comes with a stripped down price.
Look at the Defender 90, that's a pretty stripped down vehicle, but it
costs over 30K and comes with hardly anything. That's when people have
to struggle and justify the purchase.

For comparison purposes, the Jeep Wrangler is a pretty stripped-down vehicle
compared to the Cherokee, but Chrysler sells more Wranglers than Cherokee's;
that's because the Wrangler is half the price of a loaded Cherokee. 

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------
[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 11:54:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Jim Edwards <edwardsj@ohsu.EDU>
Subject: PTFE oil additives

I use a additive called "tufoil" in my Discovery and used it for years in 
my IIa. I have always been a bit skeptical of many additive claims, but 
the company, Fluoramics, does send out test results. The latest data 
sheet quotes data from the National Bureau of Standards (NIST). They use 
a four ball test to look at the efficacy of oils and measure the time to 
smoking when the balls ar spun under pressure. All additives (including 
slick-50, Whiz, Wynns #85, Bitron, Fluorocote, Lubrilon, slick willie, 
etc) began smoking within 10 minutes, while the tufoil went 16 days.

Of course, while I've been using it for years, I don't have a clue as to 
whether its doing anything except making me feel better by spending 
money. Fluoramics Phone # is 1-800-922-0075. I am not affliated with them 
in any way except being a satisfied customer.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 15:01:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Disco pricing redux and yuppies...

On Thu, 28 Dec 1995 rpeng@cadev6.intel.com wrote:

> I think the problem is not that only luxury sells. I believe a stripped-
> down model will sell, PROVIDED that it comes with a stripped down price.
> Look at the Defender 90, that's a pretty stripped down vehicle, but it
> costs over 30K and comes with hardly anything. That's when people have
> to struggle and justify the purchase.
  .
	A stripper D90 would have a 4 banger TDi, a blindsider hardtop, 
	steel wheels...  Still be pricey, but nothing like the US Spec D90.
	

------------------------------
[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Ross Leidy <ross@secant.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 95 15:09:09 0500
Subject: Re:  Disco pricing redux and yuppies...

On 12/28/95 at 09:33 AM, rpeng@cadev6.intel.com penned:
[snip]
 >down model will sell, PROVIDED that it comes with a stripped down
 >price. Look at the Defender 90, that's a pretty stripped down
 >vehicle, but it costs over 30K and comes with hardly anything. That's
 >when people have to struggle and justify the purchase.
[snip]

Whaddaya mean, "stripped down"--the D90's got two cup holders! 

_____________________________________
Ross Leidy  (ross@secant.com)
Secant Technologies, Inc.
95 NAS D90

------------------------------
[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: "Bror 'Count' Heinola" <count@key.hole.fi>
Subject: Re: rodents at play [take 2]
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 22:46:43 +0200 (EET)

	(argh, I forgot to cc: the list!)

Yves  Feder taisi sanoa:
> and all it involves is dropping the (aptly named) squirrel cage blower from 
> its housing in the vent plenum where the li'l micey guys like to make their
> nests (you'll find fur, straw, wood chips, etc.etc.) and clean the thing out.
 
 	That's essentially correct. Though I've never dismantled the Range
 	Rover heater/fan assembly because of rodents, I've done it (or helped
 	to do it) twice because the heater element broke. The procedure is
 	fairly straightforward and no special tools are needed. 
 
 	In my car (a '76 Range Rover) taking the fan/heater assembly out
 	required dismantling the underside of the dashboard pretty completely
 	to make the removal easier. Glove box has to be removed, but the 
 	drivers side can be left in place provided that it has been loosened 
 	some so the center part can come off. It's advisable to drain the water
 	out of the system first, or you'll make a mess. But then again, who's
 	afraid of getting a bit wet and dirty in the process? ;-)
 
 	The heater hoses are a pain to get off because the fasteners have
 	usually rusted nicely, and I'd advice to replace them (and perhaps the
 	hoses too, if they look worn out) just to make sure they won't start
 	leaking. To make the heater work a bit better (if you happen to have
 	an older model) flush it with water in reverse direction, there can be
 	plenty of stuff coming out, especially if you've had a nasty accident
 	with the head gasket. The whole thing took about 5 hours on the first 
 	try, and less than an hour on the second. 
 
> To remove the engine (!!!!!) and charge for ten hours work to do this?!?!?
> I can't believe that even on a Rangie this would be the case.
 
 	Well, the mechanics have to make a living too! ;-)
 
 	Ok, so now I've delurked. Hello to all fellow Rover fans/fanatics!

-- 
Bror 'Count' Heinola	# E-mail:		# Network admin of muncca.fi
Pengerkatu 13b A5	# count@snafu.muncca.fi	# Count in IRC
00530  HELSINKI		# count@key.hole.fi	# "Be excellent to each
Cell: +358-40-5533-554	# ...free your mind...	#  other!" - Bill & Ted

------------------------------
[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 16:15:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Russell U Wilson <ruwst+@pitt.edu>
Subject: SOLD++ 1970 light wht for sale in Pa.

Thanks to all who replied but as I said this thing sold in a flash. 

------------------------------
[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 16:57:58 -0500
Subject: Russell U Wilson  

All;                Anybody have a phone number for Russ Wilson from
Pennsylvania ??         I  Have his e-mail address but need his phone
number....
                                                             Thanks
     Steve Bradke   72 Slll 88

------------------------------
[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Subject: Getting rid of scratches
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 95 18:38:43 -0500
From: Gary Mitchelson <garym@cais.cais.com>

-- [ From: Gary Mitchelson * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

I know I'll probably catch hell for asking the following question but I will
and do take my Discovery off-road on trails that non-LR 4WD's will not take
theirs.

Anyways here it goes.

Has anyone have any suggestions for removing scratches from branches? 
I have in the past just used a good wax, a orbital buffer and several hours
of time, is this the best approach?

I picked up a nice assortment this time in the mountains of southwestern
Virginia.
--
Gary Mitchelson     
N3JPU     
garym@racalrecord.com     
Racal Recorders, Inc.     

------------------------------
[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 18:48:33 -0500
Subject: Russ Wilson..   Please disregard

Please disregard my previous posting.. Thanks.........Steve

------------------------------
[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 19:07:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Magnet <magnet@io.org>
Subject: Rodent in 93 Cty Heater

Mark Clemence is advised he has a rodent in the heater of his '93 RR...

Well, I think I smell a rodent, all right, but not sure it's in the heater.
I too have a '93 RR County, and while it is in all respects an admirable 
car, it did give me a problem about a month ago that sounds very much 
like the one Mark describes.  The heater would slow down and eventually 
stop, to the tune of a pronounce rumbling noise.  Left alone for a bit it 
would re-start, but after about 3 or 4 minutes, slow down and stop again.

I checked all the electrics up to the motor, and they were OK.  As the 
symptoms were the same as I once had on a Marina, I figured the problem 
was probably the same too -- bearings on the fan motor seizing up.  To 
get at this requires disassembly of the lower part of the dashboard, and 
then getting the case off the heater to get at the motor.  It's not as 
bad as Mark's dealer implied, but it still is a nasty job, especially in 
the winter in an unheated garage.

Anyway, I asked the dealer about it, since the car is still under 
warranty.  They fixed it, no quibble, no argument, no cost.  Mind you, 
they managed to forget to reconnect the wires for three of the lights in 
the heater control panel, the cruise control, and the cigarette lighter 
light when they reassembled everything, plus getting the subwoofer volume 
control wired up backwards...  Yes, I know, that all sounds like yuppie 
fluff, but since the car has got all that stuff on it, it ought to work!
Anyway, I fixed all those odds and ends, which was still a lot easier 
than fixing the heater, not to mention the cost of the new heater motor.

I suppose it is too much to expect a dealer mechanic to be as painstaking 
as an owner would be, especially when he's only allowed X minutes to do a 
warranty repair.  Still, I'd like to think that Rover dealers would 
employ first class people.  My experience with this dealer (Lawrence Park 
Motors in Toronto) is that the spirit is willing, but the flesh is weak.  
That is, they are very courteous, and helpful, and have never given me 
any flak about warranty work, but their mechanics are either careless or 
don't have the time to check over their work to make sure everything is 
up to spec.  However, they do get it more or less right eventually, if I 
have the time to let them.

Rather a pity you can't just get the parts for free under the warranty.  
I'd much prefer to do the work myself (although as I said, not in the 
middle of winter!)

By the way, I also have a 1959 Rover 90 CAR, and feel much about it the 
same as you Series LR people do about your cars -- the Beauty of Simplicity!
But what can one do? They just don't make 'em like that any more.  And I 
do have to admit that the ABS, electronic traction control, etc., etc., 
on the Range Rover are incredibly effective in snowy conditions.  

Enough babble!  Happy New Year to all, and Happy Rovering!

                                      Cheers,

                                            -- Bill

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Bill Daddis -- Aurora, Ontario, Canada -- magnet@io.org
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

------------------------------
[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: smitha@candw.lc
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 16:23:47 -0800
Subject: Re:  pricing ..

On Thu, 28 Dec 1995, Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
>	A stripper D90 would have a 4 banger TDi, a blindsider hardtop, 
>	steel wheels...  Still be pricey, but nothing like the US Spec D90.
>It is a real pity that you cannot order direct from the UK.  We don't have a 
dealership in the island so I had a 90 Tdi pickup built-to-order in Solihull 
last December and delivered on the banana boat in the first week of February 
this year. The options included specifying the type of engine, wheels, tyres, 
bars for front and sill protection, lighting, instruments, seats, etc. etc. 
There were dozens of them, right down to the mud flaps. The f.o.b. price was 
around 10,000 pounds, or $15,000. The basic vehicle was around $1000 less. 
(f.o.b. means the finished vehicle ready and delivered to the ship at the docks 
in the UK). I had earlier considered getting a used vehicle, but a look through 
the ads in LRO International showed that even for vehicles without the UK VAT 
tax, I would have to get something at least 5 years old to get significantly 
below that price. 
BTW that also included an independant inspection before delivery.

Although I have only been on the 'net for 2 weeks (and found the Land Rover 
sites immediately), much of the Land Rover traffic seems to indicate that North 
American customers don't have any choice in what they are offered, and also that 
the serious users are given short shrift. However, if you live on an obscure 
island in the Leewards you can have what to me is essentially a Series 4A, made 
to meet a job description that you specify.  
Good luck

------------------------------
[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 17:54:29 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: re:Rear rack v.s roof rack

Dear Barnett:
I have been thinking about such things. No action yet. "Tuffy" makes a 
center console that locks and is bigger than the standard cubby (Jeff 
Gauvin recently put one in his D90). Masterack makes lockable bins that 
fit on the rear wheel wells.
Yesterday I went to Seattle Land Rover and saw the D90 station wagon. 
Also, the folks there gave me a Station Wagon brochure, which includes a 
picture of the Safari Roof Rack. It looks great and the brochure reads:
"The Safari Roof Rack is a necessity for the serious outdoor adventurer. 
Its full basket design provides ample storage for all types of cargo and 
includes a rear ladder for easy, convenient access.  The rugged, tubular 
design is constructed from heavy-gauge steel for maxium strength and 
durabiltiy and accommodates all Defender 90 models. Available in matte
black."
As has been previously mentioned (by Jim Pappas?), it fastens to the 
front exterior safari cage, and to the back by a left-sided ladder that 
attaches to the chassis and a right rear pillar that extends down to the 
chassis.
Most of my serious outdoor adventures happen in Seattle (by necessity 
rather than choice) so I have some concern about the *height* of the roof 
rack. The Seattle dealership doesn't have a price listed for the rack 
yet, but based on a D110 price of $1080 in '93, I was told it is probably 
in the $1200 range.
I agree that space for Jerry cans of gas&water and secured HiLift and 
Pull Pal would be good.
A rack on the rear tire would keep center of gravity from being so 
high. Stuff would be more accessable on a rear carrier, although the 
ladder on the Land Rover rack looks pretty good (my kids would 
probably *beg* me to let them fetch stuff!!).
Please let me know what you decide. 
Best wishes, David

------------------------------
[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 23:10:00 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: pricing ..

On Thu, 28 Dec 1995 smitha@candw.lc wrote:

> Although I have only been on the 'net for 2 weeks (and found the Land Rover 
> sites immediately), much of the Land Rover traffic seems to indicate 
> that North American customers don't have any choice in what they are 
> offered, and also that the serious users are given short shrift. 

	NA is getting hosed on the options, though to a great extent
	this has historically been the case, at least for the USA & Canada
	later on.  It was possible in Canada to get strippers into the 
	late 60's in Canada, but with BL etc. the US/Canadian spec
	vehicles would be considered top of the line in the UK.  While
	I know in Canada it was possible to get more basic vehicles,
	today that is basically impossible.  Phone LR(UK) and you get
	forwarded back to NA.

> However, if you live on an obscure island in the Leewards you can have 
> what to me is essentially a Series 4A, made to meet a job description 
> that you specify.  

	Ah, but you haven't tested it in snow yet.  Can I interest you
	in a couple hundred million tons?  :-)  Got plenty to spare...

	For the NA Series owners....  Any idea when the LU761 taillight
	assembly was used?   Seen LU691 and LU592, but not the 761.  Must
	have been UK only.  Looks very similar to the LU592 (flat topped
	with "ears" for the two screws.  691 is the chrome based unit
	found in II's and early IIA's.  Think 761 has a clear piece on the
	bottom to illuninate the number plate.)

------------------------------
[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 20:36:32 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: re:Rear rack v.s roof rack

I would expect that the amount of change in your D90's tippability with a
roof rack would depend on how much weight you put up there.  As for noise, I
have an expedition rack on my Discovery and at >50 mph with a cross wind I
do find it noisy.  My cure for this is to close the sunroofs and turn on the
air conditioning (he said risking a rekindling the Great Plushmobile
Skirmish of 1995).  From the posts I've seen here on the Lists those canvas
tops on a D90 are pretty noisy already.  A roof rack will probably not make
much difference.  One thing you probably should keep in mind is that a roof
rack adds a fair amount of height, which can keep you out of some parking
garages.

Cheers!
John

At 10:05 28.12.95 EST, barnett childress wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Hi all,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 47 lines)]
>ARB air lockers.
>Soon to have rear seats, and some kind of rack! 
>4) -   

------------------------------
[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 20:36:38 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: re:More on dealers

Oh, that is good news!  My dealership was appalled when I brought my
Discovery around after its first romp.  The reaction was a frowned, "It's
scratched."  So far, they're still catering to yuppies and the carriage trade.

Here's to the Revolution, comrades!
John

At 11:29 28.12.95 EST, barnett childress wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Martin Eglitis writes;
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 31 lines)]
>If other dealers out there are not catering to their customers that really 
>use their LR's, thats really to bad. 
>Barnett 

------------------------------
[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 20:37:25 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re:  Disco pricing redux and yuppies...

At 09:33 28.12.95 PST, Roger Peng wrote:

>For comparison purposes, the Jeep Wrangler is a pretty stripped-down vehicle
>compared to the Cherokee, but Chrysler sells more Wranglers than Cherokee's;
>that's because the Wrangler is half the price of a loaded Cherokee. 

Well... a D90 ($30,000) is about half the price of a 4.6 HSE ($62,000).

Cheers!
John

------------------------------
[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 00:10:01 -0500
Subject: Range Rover Power Seat Switches

The power passenger seat back in my '89 Range Rover will not tilt forward (it
still tilts backward) and the entire seat still slides forward and back.  I
took the fuse out so it will not get stuck all the way back.  This would not
bother me (I don't sit in the passenger seat) but, today was the third time
that someone has tried to adjust the seat and then made a  comment like "Land
Rovers are nice, if only they didn't break all the time."  I always tell
people it is a German switch.  I was going to try and take it apart tonight
and try to fix it (the shop manual only tells how to replace the switch) but
I thought I would post to the list first and ask for any tips.  If the switch
can not be fixed does anyone know the cheapest  place to buy them?

Thanks,

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------
[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 00:10:09 -0500
Subject: Range Rover Headlight Washers

I was getting the Range Rover ready for the drive up to Lake Tahoe tomorrow
and I noticed that my windshield/rear window/headlight washer fluid tank was
half full despite the fact that I filled it a week ago.

My headlight washer hose had been rubbing against the front fender and it had
sprung a  small leak.  Instead of buying a new hose I cut the part of the
hose with the hole out and replaced it with an inexpensive in line fuel
filter. I figured having the filter might reduce the chance of the sprayers
clogging.  The filter did not seem to reduce the pressure or amount of water
sprayed.

I also rerouted the hose and covered it with plastic wire loom cover where it
touches the fender so I won't have any more leaks.

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------
[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 00:10:12 -0500
Subject: Hi-Lift Jack on Yakima Racks

I am going to have four people in the Range Rover so I couldn't just fold
down the back seat and throw the Hi-Lift jack in.

I found an easy way to bolt it to my Yakima racks right next to the skis.  I
used two Yakima plastic SnapArounds with the bolt threads facing up.  I put
the bolts through the holes in the jack and then tightened it down with a nut
and lock washer over a big washer.

I put an old bike lock cable though the jack, wrapped it around the crossbar
and locked it with a small lock to stop someone from walking off with it.  

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------
[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Landy88@aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 00:12:49 -0500
Subject: TICKING IN A 2.25 Petrol

I have a strange ticking coming from my Ser III 88.  I have the original 2.25
petrol with only 39k miles.  I have a ticking that starts about five minutes
after ignition and get progressively louder..I suspect tappet wear.  However,
the ticking stops under heavy acceleration and worsens upon deceleration.
 Also, it is not very rhythmic.  Kind of a tap,tap........tap, tap,
tap.....tap,tap thing.  Any suggestions?

I've tried valve adjustment, but it only changes the rhythm slightly,,,also,
valve adjustment seems dynamic on this vehicle....an adjustment and two
hundred miles equals out of adjustment again.....

Would like some input before the $1000 tappet assembly replacement.....Also,
any good Series Rover mechanics in Western Mass or nearby?  I have a good
mechanic, but he is more of the RR type.  I need a good old-fashioned Series
III guy.

------------------------------
[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: Landy88@aol.com
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 1995 00:12:50 -0500
Subject: TO Barnett Childress

Sorry if this is addressed incorrectly, as I get the digest and can't
reply.....

As this is the Christmas season....Allelujah......

One of the biggest problems I've seen in my tenure as a British Vehicle owner
(MGs to Triumphs to Rovers) is the snobbery between owners.....

I guess it is to be expected, as being different is part of the joy of
ownership of what is sometimes an unappealingly problematic
machine......(Those other vehicles, I mean).  I am currently the owner of a
'72 Ser III 88 and a '68 Ser IIa 88.  I would like to have any number of
other models for their respective appeals..from the older 80"s up to the 130
TDI.  I might even spring for a Rangie one day.......

I guess what bothers me is the increasing lack of camaraderie between owners.
 Only a short while ago, any LRO on the road would acknowledge me (and I
he/she) in passing.  Many newer owners act as though they are ashamed of the
bonnet-mounted tyre crowd....

Oh, by the way, for those of you lucky enough to own a 4.0.......how sweet
can it get??  (These are the only guys who ALWAYS wave).

------------------------------
[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

Date: 29 Dec 95 00:14:25 EST
From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com>
Subject: Frame welding

 >>  To remove the wiring harness, are there Lucar connectors somewhere, or do
I have to disconnect at each light? <<

    The rear wiring harness comes out of the right frame rail and up into the
rear body behind the cover plate for the right side lights and into a
connector for each circuit. From here the circuits that go to the left side go
back into the harness, down to the frame, and are clipped to the top of the
rear cross member across to the left side and up behind the cover for the left
lights.
    To remove the body box, you have to disconnect the harness behind both
light covers, and also remove 3 or 4 harness clamps that hold the harness
down, inside the wheel wells. You might be able to remove the clips on the
rear cross member before you remove the body box, but I normally wait until
everything is loose, lift up the box an inch or so, and unclip them.
    It would have been nice to have one big plug to separate the harness at
the frame, but it would not have taken long at all for it to rust away. After
all, you see what happened to you cross member.

 Good luck with your project

     -------------------
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     |\/|           |\/|

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 29-Dec-1995

------------------------------
[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 21:28:57 -0800
Subject: Re: 	Engines & stuff

For the record:

There is *NO* 1996 Range Rover Classic. There are 25 Euro only Classics 
special badging and color and run's end in February. The are a handful of 1995 
Classics remaining in NA dealer inventories at this point - and *NO* green 
ones BTW. 

The 4.6 litre mill is *ONLY* availble in the Range Rover 4.6 HSE world wide. 

The 4.0 litre V-8 is available in the Range Rover 4.0SE worldwide and in 
downrated power (182 vs. 190) in the NAS Disco. It will probably make it's way 
into the Euro Disco next year.

cheers
Jim

`67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (#457/500)
`95 D90 #1958

------------------------------
[ <- Message 56 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951229 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 50 lines 2126 [forwarded 217 whitespace 536]
 Output: lines 1723 [content 1118  forwarded 91 (cut  126) whitespace 480]

	
    Forward
	


	
    
          
	


Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.