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msgSender linesSubject
1 "T.F. Mills" [tomills@du16Re: LR Off Road School / Colorado?
2 M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mik16Re: Dixons abilities
3 "S.W.Brierley" [S.W.Brie16Merry Christmas to all LRO's (Early-going away)
4 Richard Jones [rich@apri27Fwd: '96 County Classic
5 Vel Natarajan [nataraja@28Cappings and Galvanizing
6 Benjamin Allan Smith [be30[not specified]
7 wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter d36Re: Whit
8 Danny Phillips [danny@tl23washing a disco
9 Stuart Williams [STUARTW22Thermal Differences ...
10 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D11Noises that go away.
11 Lee Zeltzer [lzeltzer@bs16Purchasing dilemma
12 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D15Half Shafts
13 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE35Re: Airlockers, Diffs, Shafts & More
14 "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE26Re: Half Shafts
15 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A26Re: Freewheel Insecurity
16 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em16Re: Dixons abilities
17 Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em25Re: Dixons abilities
18 add@philabs.research.phi45New Disco great in the snow, but has audio hum
19 tbwill@interserv.com 22Disco Pricing
20 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D10Willys
21 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D95Pictures of Camel Trials
22 Tony Bonanno [tbonanno@i28Front end wobble
23 Tony Bonanno [tbonanno@i43Broken Axles Experiences
24 "Steve Methley" [sgm@hpl49Re: Whit
25 M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mik46Re: Whit
26 "John J. Tackley" [jtack13 Washing a Disco......
27 "Gerald" [g@ix.netcom.co18Re: Washing a Disco......
28 gpool@pacific.pacific.ne39RE: WHEELS & TIRES
29 Bennett Leeds [bennett@m15Re: Disco pricing
30 chrisste@clark.net (Chri24Heat Not Hot
31 Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti16Rancho RS5000 shocks - 4/$99
32 Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A12Re: Washing a Disco......
33 ASFCO@aol.com 11wrenches
34 "Mark Talbot" [Land_Rove13SI more info
35 tdj@fore.com (Tom Des Ja74Disco antenna replacement
36 "Gerald" [g@ix.netcom.co19RE: WHEELS & TIRES
37 "Gerald" [g@ix.netcom.co20Re: Disco antenna replacement
38 "Mark Talbot" [Land_Rove6Spotting S1 stuff
39 Simon Barclay [sbar@jna.26RE: wrenches
40 "Hugh Grierson" [Hugh_Gr14 Re: Whit
41 Simon Barclay [sbar@jna.7RE: Spotting S1 stuff
42 IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILL28'Cappings' and rivet etiquette
43 Benjamin Allan Smith [be34[not specified]
44 Benjamin Allan Smith [be17Re: Spotting S1 stuff
45 Rick Grant [rgrant@synap73Bosnia travels
46 sm095re@unidui.uni-duisb13Range Rover lift/springs
47 Wdcockey@aol.com 43Re: Whitworth - Info.
48 rover@pinn.net (Alexande20Lugnuts
49 cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chri19Re: wrenches
50 rover@pinn.net (Alexande28Breaking up is hard to do...
51 "Gerald" [g@ix.netcom.co13Disco head lamp levelling
52 "GAWIE VAN BLERK" [A484628 Re: clutch & clunk (was: re:The Land Rover Own...)


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From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu>
Subject: Re: LR Off Road School / Colorado?
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 01:02:06 -0700 (MST)

 Anyone know anything about this?
< David Dodell

Contact Tom Collins, POB 587, Snowmass, CO 81654, 970-927-3788.  He is 
also the Camel Trophy USA Team coordinator.  I think the school is 
jointly operated by the Colorado and San Diego LR dealerships.

T. F. Mills
tomills@du.edu                               University of Denver Library
http://www.du.edu/~tomills                          Denver  CO 80208  USA

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 09:57:34 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Dixons abilities

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Did you all know that Dixon won the OVLR lugnut of the year award or has
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
>FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

He was perfectly OK with the phone when he rang me to sympathise with
my decorating "sentence".Wasnt even shouting.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 09:56:01 GMT
From: "S.W.Brierley" <S.W.Brierley@dl.ac.uk>
Subject: Merry Christmas to all LRO's (Early-going away)

Hi all Fellow LRO's,

Just a christams wish to you all from myself(stu) and EMMA, 
my SerIII SWB.
I am going away for christmas to Suffolk and will not have net access,
so i'll say it now.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

C U all in '96
Stu and EMMA.

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From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com>
Subject: Fwd: '96 County Classic
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 9:57:33 +0000 (GMT)

Mark Clemence writes:
> 	I live in Milwaukee, Wisconsin in the U.S. and am leasing a '93 County SWB 
> 	through August of '96. I was hoping to replace the vehicle at that time with a 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> 	4.0 and 4.6. A decision is apparently due soon. Does anybody have any further 
> 	details?

The last Classic is currently scheduled to come off the line on February 8th 1996,
and from there be driven to the Heritage Museum at Gaydon where it will take up
residence.

It will be the last (no 25) of the 25th Anniversary Final Edition (the other 24 have
already been built).  Incidentally no 25 should have been built already to since 
all right hand drive production has now finished, but it is being held up for the 
camera's.  Current build is purely European spec left hand drive vehicles.
__ 
  _ __              Apricot Computer Limited
 ' )  )      /      3500 Parkside               Tel:   (+44) 121 717 7171
  /--' o _. /_      Birmingham Business Park    Fax:   (+44) 121 717 0123
 /  <_<_(__/ <_     BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS
 Richard Jones      United Kingdom              Email: richardj@apricot.mee.com

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From: Vel Natarajan <nataraja@cig.mot.com>
Subject: Cappings and Galvanizing
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 04:22:42 -0600 (CST)

I've noticed a fair amount of rust on the rear cappings of my 66 SWB,
maybe from the PO steel-wooling them before he sold it.  (It looked OK
at the time.)

I would rather leave them au-natural (as is) then paint them, but...

I've also noticed an ad by "Shire 4x4" in Oxfordshire selling
re-galvanized cappings.  It would be nice to not have to worry about
rusty cappings for a few decades...

How much of a PITA is it to remove those big-ass rivets and replace
the cappings.  Those look like 'real' rivets and not the lil'-old
pop-rivets which hold on the badges.  How hard is it to use a 'real'
rivet gun?  Anyone ever replaced these babies?

Or should I forget it all and slap on some cheesy silver paint?

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Vel Natarajan                            Phone:  +44-1793-566-323
Motorola Inc.                            Fax:    +44-1793-430-987
Email:  nataraja@cig.mot.com             Mobile: +49-171-854-6670
----------------------------------------------------------------------

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Subject: New Years Mojave Road trip 
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 03:00:07 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

	Gerry Elam posted a little bit on this last week (on the main list).  
Since I'll be away for most of next week, I put together a web page with more 
details, a brief map and some photos from when I drove the road last May.  

http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/RoverWeb/MojaveRoad.html

	Note that in some postings a few of the GPS coordinates were off
by 7 minutes of longitude (mea culpa--I screwed up marking my map).  The
web page has the coordinates that I think are correct (but are subject to 
my measurement mistakes).

	In brief a number of the California and Arizona Rovers are spending
New Years weekend driving the old Mojave Wagon Road.  This is a light offroad
and was not challenging last May (dry conditions).  Any Rovers are welcome.
If you want to come email me or Gerry because it would be nice to know how
many people are coming ahead of time.

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 95 13:46 GMT-0200
From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Subject: Re: Whit

Hi all

So Mike sez:
>Whit,(BSW,or British Standard Whitworth),BSF(British Standard
>Fine),and BA (British Association),are all Imperial.
>The numbers denote the diameter of the bolt itself.So 1/4"Whit
>is a 1/4" dia bolt,Whitworth threaded.The number of threads

Hmmmm. So what you're saying is that all 1/4" BSW bolts have the same size
head? Which is like, 3/8" or something? I've seen a spanner (More PC word
than "wrench" :-) in Whitworth. Would that imply that the heads on Whitworth
bolts are some funny size, so they need special spanners?

The spanners I've used are marked AF, so far used 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and managed
to strip a Landy down to the chassis. Using an angle grinder helped :-)

So - if I have four bolts, 1/4" BSW, BSF, BA and AF (?) I would need four
spanners or one shifter? Or are the heads on the first three the same size?

What I'm really trying to determine is, when I'm lying on my back, oil
dripping on my head, etc... what set of tools do I grab? How do I know what
fits where?

Metric is so much easier ... (Big flame-war pyromaniac grin :-)

Wouter
--
Wouter de Waal        Phone : +27 21 683 5490
Development Engineer  Fax   : +27 21 683 5435
CCII Systems
Kenilworth, South Africa

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From: Danny Phillips <danny@tlpgate.lonpar.co.uk>
Subject: washing a disco
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 95 12:18:51 GMT

Gerald
wrote :
> What special things do I need to look out for in washing road crud
> and salt off a Disco? I guess there are some spots underneath I need
> to pay attention to.

one thing to look out for is the ariel, i stuck mine through a car wash and
was so preoccupied about the list of jobs and errands my wife had given me i 
had to sit and watch in horror as the brush things changed my straight arial 
into a peice of bendy wire uri geller would have been proud to produce.
:-)
oh well it still works and i may just have to get out the manual and change it.

by the way the haynes manual only has 4 lines on this, and it says that once
you have removed the splash guard, then disconnect the areil connector, i have
only ever seen ariels with the connector that goes right into the radio, or 
have the lr mechs been sensible about where the connectors are sitiuated.

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From: Stuart Williams <STUARTW@po1.net.cho.ge.com>
Subject: Thermal Differences ...
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 95 08:12:00 EST

All,

Has anyone besides me noticed that Gerry Elam never gloats about Phoenix 
weather in the dead of summer?  After all, he'd have to .sig his messages 
with 'Gerry "Phx high: 125" Elam' ...

> Merry Christmas to all!  May all of your Land Rover Dreams come true!
> Gerry "Phx high: 72" Elam

Ah, but it's *dry* heat, right Gerry?

Cheers,

Stuart "Charlottesville high: 32" Williams
'95 Discovery V8i
'85 LandCruiser (non-plushmobile)

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From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Noises that go away.
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 95 08:18:00 EST

Regarding the thread on engine noises that go away, get worse or deafen the 
operator.
When I added sound proofing to Miss Golightly I found it psychologically 
disturbing to not hear all the noises I was used to.
Then again Series owners are psychologically disturbed, noises or not.

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 06:27:46 -0700
From: Lee Zeltzer <lzeltzer@bsd1.isdnet.com>
Subject: Purchasing dilemma 

A month or so ago I posted a request for leads to purchase a used D110. 
Instead I plunked down a deposit on a new D90 hardtop which is due in next 
week. Currently I own and love a 94 Discovery, however I cannot pry it out of 
my wife's hands. 

Realisticly how does the D90 compare to the Disco off road? Is it really a 
better vehicle or do real men just drive D or series rovers? 

I post this not to start a debate but frankly because I am torn beteen the 
creature comforts of another Discovery and the fact that I live in the best 4 
wheel drive country in the world; Arizona.

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From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Half Shafts
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 95 08:38:00 EST

To add further fuel to the fire of broken half shafts. Ben writes that each 
of the shafts he has broken occured when parking or pulling away on road. 
This points to another reason not to have locking /freewheeling hubs on the 
front. Picture this: Hubs unlocked, pulling away from stop on incline, 
driver only, no passengers, half shaft breaks. Look no drive, look no 
parking brake. Help!!!!!. No freewheeling hubs. Just select FWD and 
continue.

Trevor "I'm taking off my Warns" Easton

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From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 08:17:00 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Airlockers, Diffs, Shafts & More

Wdcockey@aol.com writes;

> Actually, with the differential locked both power and torque are "divided"
 according to the  respective traction on each wheel. This is a function of
 the rubber/ground interface, and any differences in tire diameters.
 
 With a totally open differential TORQUE is split evenly (in an axle) or
 according to the designed ratio in a center diff. Power is speed times
 torque, and therefore will be split according to wheel speed. This equal
 split of torque is why single wheelspin happens. When the torque exceeds the
 traction available to one wheel, it starts to spin and the other tire
> continues to have the same torque.
 
Sure, go and get technical on me. OK, I admit it was a sloppy 
statement (but aren't LR's about getting in the slop?).
It was an ineffective way of trying to say you won't suddenly have a 
lot of power going to a wheel with nowhere to go except to break, or 
weaken, a half shaft, as you would with a detroit locker type diff. 
One wheel isn't going to be spinning madly and suddenly stop.
Sheeesh, you engineer types. ;-)
But it's ok, I understand. I get the same way about welding & pipefitting.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 08:32:01 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Half Shafts

 Trevor "I'm taking off my Warns" Easton writes:

> To add further fuel to the fire of broken half shafts. Ben writes that each 
 of the shafts he has broken occured when parking or pulling away on road. 
This points to another reason not to have locking /freewheeling hubs on the 
 front. Picture this: Hubs unlocked, pulling away from stop on incline, 
 driver only, no passengers, half shaft breaks. Look no drive, look no 
 parking brake. Help!!!!!. No freewheeling hubs. Just select FWD and 
> continue.

This also shows that we all should spend more time off road so we 
don't break half shafts.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

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From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 20 Dec 95  9:40:20 EST
Subject: Re: Freewheel Insecurity

>This points to another reason not to have locking /freewheeling hubs on the 
>front. Picture this: Hubs unlocked, pulling away from stop on incline, 
>driver only, no passengers, half shaft breaks. Look no drive, look no 
>parking brake. Help!!!!!. No freewheeling hubs. Just select FWD and 
>continue.

Dunno about this.... Having driven Churchill with the hubs locked and unlocked, 
I will say that I need the extra 10MPH and fuel mileage I get with the front 
hubs unlocked. Turning all that machinery just doesn't make a lot of sense when 
it's not imminently needed. There's little enough power in a 2.25 to waste it 
on spinning inert metal.....

As far as the broken half-shaft scenario goes, that is why I have wheel chocks. 
If there's no one behind you, that's what CURBSTONES are for....or rocks.....or 
pedestrians.....8*)

>Trevor "I'm taking off my Warns" Easton

Alan "If you do I'll buy 'em"Richer
 

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 09:55:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Dixons abilities

On Wed, 20 Dec 1995, Daryl Webb wrote:

> come on Dixon 'fess up.

	Lies...  (It was 21 years between oil filter changes, not 17)

	rumours...  (You couldn't tell I drove over my landlords lamp post)

	Not my fault!... (no comment)

	I've been framed!

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 10:00:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Dixons abilities 

On Tue, 19 Dec 1995, Benjamin Allan Smith wrote:

>    I haven't heard all of the details and have been waiting to see what
> got printed in the newsletter.  Last I heard Dixon had a long list of 
> nominees including myself (though I can't recall what for off hand).  
> The day after he got the award, Dixon was mumbling on how Dale Despray 
> had sandbagged him.

	Dale is very unhappy about the newsletter.  Seems I lost his and
	Ted's list of these supposed transgressions.  However, to balance
	things out, and being editor, the newsletter is going to be much
	more entertaining this year (I ain't gonna be the first to get it
	twice), starting with Dale...  I did tell them I would print any
	article-type thing they wished to write.  It would be filed in
	a new fiction section in the newsletter

> Maybe Robin will have to enlighten us.  :-)

	Robin missed the party... :-)  You're going to have to get Dale
	to talk.

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 95 10:24:22 EST
From: add@philabs.research.philips.com (Aninda V. Dasgupta)
Subject: New Disco great in the snow, but has audio hum

I got a new Avalon Blue Discovery last Friday. (For those discussing prices
of Discos, I got mine for more than $1000 off MSRP, then added many "options"
at dealer cost.)  

I drove my Disco to the Finger Lakes region of NY state last weekend, and
it was snowing heavily at times. Yesterday we had the season's highest 
snowfall, and while most of my coworkers stayed home for the day, I decided to 
leave work with about a foot of snow on the ground.  And I must say that I was 
impressed and immensely pleased with the way my Disco handled in the snow.  I 
didn't feel any skidding or wheel-slippage, although granted that I don't drive 
like most 4x4 nuts out on the road who think the weather can't touch them.

The two minor problems I have had so far with the Disco are:

1) The passenger seat recliner knob broke off with ouur first attempt to
     recline the seat.  I am debating whether to just put the knob back on
     with some crazy glue, or wait till I take the car for service to the dealer

2) The audio system has a hum which increases in pitch as I rev the engine.
   I hear the hum even when the volume is turned off.  I guess the audio
   system is picking up noise from the coil which may not be shielded.
   Or it could be that the dealer didn't install the CD changer properly.
   Can anyone on this list offer me advice as to what I can do to get rid
   of the hum?  My dealer is more than an hour away, and I don't really
   want to make the trip down there unless I have to.

But all in all, it's indeed a pleasure to drive this vehicle.  Hope this
level of satisfaction continues.  Thanks to many members of this list
who helped me with advice on the Discovery before and during my purchase
of the vehicle.

Happy Holidays/Merry Christmas/Happy New Year everyone!

-Aninda

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aninda DasGupta (add@philabs.philips.com) Ph:(914)945-6071 Fax:(914)945-6552
Philips Labs\n 345 Scarborough Rd\n  Briarcliff Manor\n NY 10510
"Err.., Phillips Petroleum gives you gas; fortunately Phillips Chemical
 makes antacid. Philips is with one "el"; we make lightbulbs, and other shtuff."

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From: tbwill@interserv.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 07:24:35 -0800
Subject: Disco Pricing

> Anyway, are there any dealers willing to *deal* on a new Disco?  I'm looking 
> at the bottom end, box-stock SD model.  Does anyone know the margin on these 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>       |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
>       |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
>       *-----------------------------------------------------*
Out here on the West Coast, we have the "Kelly Blue Book" auto price guide. This 
used to be only for used cars, but now thay have a new car version. To get to 
the point, they show the cost of a 1995 "loaded" Discovery at 88.74% of the MSRP
(MSRP - $36,575, Cost - $32,456). The local dealer confirmed this when he showed 
me the dealer cost of a demo I was contemplating buying. The figures were 
identical to the ones in the Kelly Blue Book. Hope this helps. By the way I took 
delivery of the Disco last Thursday.

Tom Williams
Fresno, CA

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From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Willys
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 95 09:11:00 EST

Bill Adams writes "Don't tread on my Willys"
:-) How appropriate that someone who signs off 3Dmentia should have had two 
willys
:-)

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From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Pictures of Camel Trials
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 95 08:57:00 EST

LRNA press release for December 10 mentions the availability of pictures at 
http://www.featurephoto.com and 
http:www.4x4u.com/pub/k2/am4x44u/whats-newcamelt1.htm. If anyone gets 
pictures from these sites can they Email me some bmps or gifs as I don't 
have access.

 Thanks
Trevor Easton

This is the release. Typos courtesy of my scanner and OCR

FOUR FINALISTS ANNOUNCED FOR CAMEL TROPHY KALIMANTAN '96
         World's most intense four-wheel drive adventure is "tough fun"

         HOLLlSTER, Calif - December 10, 1995 - After more than thirty-two 
hours
         of grueling marathon trials here this weekend, four finalists have 
been selected for
         the United States' 1996 Camel Trophy team. Two of these four will 
go on to
         represent the U.S. in April when two-person teams from twenty 
nations travel to
         Kalimantan, Indonesia on the island of Borneo, for the adventure of 
a lifetime.
         Jeff Brandner, 31, a landscape architect from Chester, N.J.; Ken 
Cameron,
         26, a carpenter from Vail, Colo.; Fred Hoess, 29, a champion 
motorcycle racer
         from Stanhope, N.J.; and Greg Oberst, 36, a firefighter and 
paramedic from Seal
         Beach, Calif. will travel to the Camel Trophy International 
Selections in Seville,
         Spain next February, where they will vie for the chance to 
represent the USA in the
         "Olympics of Four-Wheel Drive."
         "Whether you know it or not, you prepare tor something IIKe this 
most of
         your life: a challenging new venue filled with multiple things to 
do in a short time.
         It's tough fun," said Hoess.
                  Oberst described the punishing 1,000-mile trek as "a 
multi-sport adventure
         that fits my lifestyle."
         The National Trials in Hollister were the first step in determining 
the U.S.
         team. Nine candidates, chosen from more than 400 applicants, 
competed in such
         individual and group tasks as hoisting a full 55-gallon drum one 
meter above the
         ground using only three logs, two pulleys and a length of rope; 
winching a vehicle
         uphill by hand; and crossing an algae-covered pond on a suspended 
rope,
         immediately after running six strenuous miles through the northern 
California hills.
         At night, the men used their Land Rover Discoverys, identical to 
the vehicles
         driven on the actual event, to demonstrate their off-road driving 
prowess. Slowed
         by a mud bog and then a near-vertical rock climb, the candidates 
winched their
         way, inch by inch, along the test course. While waiting their turns 
at the wheel,
         the competitors took written tests of map-reading, first-aid, and 
mechanical
         knowledge -- all critical Camel Trophy skills.
         The candidates are judged on their enthusiasm, their ability to 
perform
         arduous tasks under the most difficult conditions and their 
willingness to listen to
         new ideas and techniques. "Making the Camel Trophy team would be 
the
         achievement of a lifetime," said Cameron. "The Trials have already 
taught me that
         teamwork means letting the other guys have a voice and then picking 
a leader."
         For Brandner, Borneo "would be a different kind of growing 
experience...the
         trials have already shown me a lot of things I don't know and 
surprised me with
         some things I could do when challenged. I'll be growing myself."
         Camel Trophy is sponsored by Worldwide Brands, Inc., marketer of 
Camel
         Trophy adventure gear and clothing and by Land Rover, manufacturer 
of premium
         British four-wheel drive vehicles. Additional U.S. Team support is 
provided by
         Coleman, Inc.
         

------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 08:57:18 -0800
From: Tony Bonanno <tbonanno@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Front end wobble

Don't know if this observation is applicable to the postings I saw regarding
front end wobble, but thought it might be worth considering.

On my series IIA, noticed front end wobble/shimmy for several years with
hubs engaged (but without 4 WD selected) starting at speeds of 35 - 40 mph
and getting worse with more speed.  Dissappeared when hubs were unlocked and
front drive-train disengaged.  After considering several tire
balance/wheel/alignment/worn swivel pin, etc. possibilities, turned out to
be none of them.  What was causing the problem was worn splines in the
sliding joint of the front prop shaft.  The wear of the splines caused just
enough play to set up major vibration when turning at speed.  Remember, that
all of the front end drive train still turns when in two wheel drive (UNLESS
you have free wheeling hubs in the "free" position) and the angle of the
front drive shaft is somewhat more severe than the rear (thereby more
susceptible to wear problems?). Lesson here is keep that baby properly
lubed.  I have to admit, mine has been on the vehicle for about 25 years, so
I can't really complain.  Anyway, put a new front drive shaft on this
summer, and is it smooth now !!  NO vibration.  I just regret that it took
me so many years to figure out what was causing the vibration.

Cheers,

Tony Bonanno, Santa Fe, NM

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 08:57:15 -0800
From: Tony Bonanno <tbonanno@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Broken Axles Experiences

Like most of the others posting on this subject, I've had a few broken axles
over the past 25 years in my IIA SWB.  However, only once did I break an
axle off-road.  All the other times, I was just starting off on dry
pavement.  Obviously, stress was building up over a period of time and it
reaches the "breaking" point eventually..  Notice the "twisted" splines on
BOTH the half shafts when you break one.  I think I've learned a few things
though since I haven't had an axle break (knock on wood) for about the last
10 years.  A few items that I believe contribute to long axle life:

- All my broken axles occurred using "oversize" tires.  Since switching to
235/75's (I have 15" rims), no problem.

- Definitely replace both half shafts if one breaks..

- Stay away from cheap aftermarket half-shafts.  Back in the 70's, these
were quite common from certain suppliers here in the U.S.  I remember
someone did some hardness testing on the original equipment vs. the
aftermarket items.  The aftermarket stuff was horrible.

- Try to minimize excess slop in drive train (clutch judder, worn spring
shackles, etc.).

- Periodically check the condition of axle splines.  You can pull them out
in minutes.  Check for twisting of splines.  If any noticable twisting, I'd
replace ASAP.  

The one time I broke a half-shaft off-road, I was way out in the middle of
nowhere - on a high country track in southern Utah ... no one around to
assist and it was cold and dark.  Although risky (in terms of damaging my
rear diff from metal debris), I drove the 40 miles or so home using the
front axle (4WD High).  Next day, pulled the broken half shaft, dropped the
rear diff, removed the broken end from the carrier, cleaned things up, and
installed new axles.  Apparently, I didn't do any damage to rear diff from
broken pieces, etc.  Although, I can see how that could happen easily.

Cheers!

Tony Bonanno, Santa Fe, NM

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From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 17:08:00 +0000
Subject: Re: Whit

Wouter says:

..Hmmmm. So what you're saying is that all 1/4" BSW bolts have the same size
..head? Which is like, 3/8" or something? I've seen a spanner (More PC word
..than "wrench" :-) in Whitworth. Would that imply that the heads on Whitworth
..bolts are some funny size, so they need special spanners?
and
..Metric is so much easier ... (Big flame-war pyromaniac grin :-)

Whitworth was designed by Sir Joe Whitworth in 1841.  OD's on the
bolts were in fractions of an inch and the heads were standardised
but not by a simple relation to bolt OD as far as I can see.  I think
it had more to do with the hex stock that the bolts were made from in
that era.

Of course the States followed with their own slightly different copy
a little later.

Metric came along at the turn of the century.

Mike may well be right when he suggests a connection between BA and
metric as BA is a Swiss watch thread historically I seem to remember.

Back to the point in hand:  BSW heads are not all the same size.  Also
BSW and BSF spanners are the same sizes, but when used on BSF fits 'the
next bolt up'  ie a 5/16 BSF will fit a 1/4 Whit - again if my memory
serves me correctly.  If you're really stuck a 14mm spanner will fit a
9/16 BSF head, as I discovered - it's almost perfect in theory too!

You did ask...
--
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Best Regards,
Steve.

Dr Steve Methley	       *****     *****
HP Labs, Filton Road, 	       ***  /_  __ ***   email:	  sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com
Bristol, BS12 6QZ, UK	       **  / / /_/  **   or	  sgm@hpl.hp.co.uk
direct line: +44 117 922 8751  ***    /    ***   fax: 	  +44 117 922 9286
switchboard: +44 117 979 9910  *****     *****   or		      8920

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 17:08:08 +0000
From: M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Subject: Re: Whit

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Hi all
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>head? Which is like, 3/8" or something? I've seen a spanner (More PC word
>than "wrench" :-) in Whitworth. Would that imply that the heads on Whitworth
>bolts are some funny size, so they need special spanners?
*All* heads are a funny size if you look at it like that.But yes Imperial
spanners are different sizes to metric.
>The spanners I've used are marked AF, so far used 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and managed
>to strip a Landy down to the chassis. Using an angle grinder helped :-)
AF spanners will fit most bolts on a Land Rover,including *some* Imperial.
But god help you if you try and shift a reluctant Whit bolt with an AF
spanner,'cos no-one else will:-) AF stands for Across Flats,is American,
and refers to the head size.The threads will be either UNF or UNC.

>So - if I have four bolts, 1/4" BSW, BSF, BA and AF (?) I would need four
>spanners or one shifter? Or are the heads on the first three the same size?
>No,1/4" BSW,1/4"bsf are different spanners.BA is the diddy little things

you find on electrical stuff,so you need a set of diddy BA spanners.

>What I'm really trying to determine is, when I'm lying on my back, oil
>dripping on my head, etc... what set of tools do I grab? How do I know what
>fits where?
You've got *sets*? Cor! A rich man!

>Metric is so much easier ... (Big flame-war pyromaniac grin :-)
Since when has easy been a recomendation.*So* much more restrictive,
dont you think?With the great range offered by Imperial/American
just *think* of all the things you can bolt together,using the
*correct* thread for the job,insted of the nearest that might do.
With luck.Imp/Am is so much better...

>Wouter
>--
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>CCII Systems
>Kenilworth, South Africa

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley@DIT2.state.va.us>
Date:          Wed, 20 Dec 1995 12:18:45 +0000
Subject:       Washing a Disco......

Gerald asks:

What special things do I need to look out for in washing road crud
and salt off a Disco? 

personally, I would watch out for the elephants spitting water and 
brandishing wash rags.....................

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From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 13:13:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Washing a Disco......

On 20 Dec 95 at 12:18, John J. Tackley wrote:
> Gerald asks:
> What special things do I need to look out for in washing road crud
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> personally, I would watch out for the elephants spitting water and 
> brandishing wash rags.....................

Are elephants Series devotees who might be a danger to my Disco?

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 10:21:31 -0800
From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool)
Subject: RE: WHEELS & TIRES

Ashley Horn asked:

>HEY Y'ALL,
>Someone on the list made a posting about steel takeoff wheels from a Disco
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>people 
>using on series vehicles (I have a 109 s/w) I am considering a 235/85-16.

These wheels (nearly flat centers, five ovalish cooling slots, 7"x16")
should be available from Land Rover dealers as they were "stock" on NAS D90s
(but try to find a 90 with 'em!  JB had to do big-time arm-twisting to get
his 90 with 'em and not have to pay for the changeover--from "optional"
alloys!).  TW found a Bay Area (SF, CA) dealer taking two sets of these
steel wheels off 90s to fit alloys and was able to buy them as "new,
takeoffs" for about $85 each.  Same item commonly sold in UK for about 20-25
pounds sterling each.  British Pacific (e-mail to britpac@aol.com) in
Burbank, CA is getting at least a pallet-load of brand new steel Disco
wheels soon and sounds like they will be somewhere around $70 each.  I'm
lusting for a set.  But if I get them I plan to fit them with 265/80R16
(=33x10.50x16) Interco Super Swamper TSL radials.  Fantastic tire for mud
and rock crawling.  But 235/85R16s would be ideal on these rims.

>P.S. if I end up using the original wheels can I mount tubless tires on them?

Really should have safety beads to run tubeless but these can be added by a
machine and welding shop.

Granville B. Pool, Redwood Valley, Alta California Norte, USA
<gpool@pacific.pacific.net> (707)485-7220 Home; (707)463-4265 Work
          In the midst of the word he was trying to say,
                In the midst of his laughter and glee,
            He had softly and suddenly vanished away--
                For the Snark _was_ a Boojum, you see.
                          --Lewis Carroll

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 95 10:27:13 PST
From: Bennett Leeds <bennett@mv.us.adobe.com>
Subject: Re: Disco pricing

>...Consumer Reports, they give 

> you a printout on the dealer invoice as well options..
> CR does charge $12 for each report...

If you're on the www, Edmund's has all that info for free. Try:
    http://www.enews.com:80/magazines/edmunds
    

- Bennett

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 13:34:22 -0500 (EST)
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: Heat Not Hot

Okay, okay. I know that these things aren't supposed to be warm in the
winter. Or draft-free for that matter. But the heater in the '69 SRIIa
doesn't seem to be putting out all the warmth it did last winter (and that
wasn't a lot of warmth, believe me). At idle, after warming up the beast
for several minutes, the heat is like room temperature. If I rev the
engine, by pulling out that Cold Start thing, it warms up. But as soon as I
slow the motor down the air cools off again. Is this a bad thermostat?

Chris

Chris Stevens                           1969 SRIIa 88" SW

Beckett Klay Communications
100 West Road
Baltimore, Maryland 21204
USA
(410) 583-1722
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
chrisste@Clark.net

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From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 13:06:54 -0600
Subject: Rancho RS5000 shocks - 4/$99

Thanks for the replies - I called 4 wheel parts wholesalers (310-323-5337) 
and the shocks are on sale through the end of the year.

Get 'em while the gettin's good...

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW "This is fun?"

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From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 20 Dec 95 14:10:26 EST
Subject: Re: Washing a Disco......

Re: Elephants being Series fans:

They should be, consideing they're both large, uuuuuugly, monolithic creatures 
at home in Africa, India and justaboutbloody everywhere else.....8*)

   aj"Theyre just not GREEN"r

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From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 14:30:14 -0500
Subject: wrenches

    Saw an info-mercial a few days ago about a wrench and socket set that has
a unique head design which they claim will fit any type bolt head or nut you
will encounter, even good for rounded off ones. It was called the METRINCH
and is supposed to be something currently in use in Europe. Wonder if anybody
else has seen or has these???   Regards   Steve Bradke  WA2GMC  72 s lll 88

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 95 20:00:31 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: SI more info

That S1 is a 53, had a frame over rebuild 4 years ago, needs tyres, top is 
dented. The starter is out, seems that someone had snapped the connector to 
attach the power. Brake, clutch all rebuilt. Has a 2 litre engine. He's asking 
$2500. 

Going for a drive Friday, will let you know if I take it or pass it on. 

Mark

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 95 15:07:57 EST
From: tdj@fore.com (Tom Des Jardins)
Subject: Disco antenna replacement

Haveing performed this task I can recommend the purchase of an electric
retracting antenna and installing it.  I will be doing this when (not if) I
break my antenna again.  (Of course since it's a disco and I have the 6
disc yuppie changer, I don't need to rush, but still <g>)

Caution, instructions given for antenna on right hand side, with passenger
on right hand side, eg US version.  I plead ignorance of UK versions, but
assume mirror image.

Camel "Lite" Task difficulty: 2
Camel "Lite" Time to complete: 2 hrs
Team activity?: Yes, except for Ben, who, having driven up the mountain for
.5 Jolt units, is oscillating so much from the caffine that he is
simultaneously in two places.  ;-)
Requires: 1 Disco, 1 Antenna, a few wrenches (spanners?), pop rivet tool,
small knife, fish.  Patience.

Exterior

1) The splash guard is attached with some weird pop rivets (about 3).  Be
prepare to remove & replace these.  They are attched along the inside of
the wheel well.  There are also about 8 plastic expanding things that are
like sleves with a pin inside that expands the end of the sleve.  The
little pin that pokes inside can be levered/extracted out with a sharp
pocket knife.  The plastic sleve/boltish thing can then be removed.  These
can be re-used.

2) Be VERY careful unbolting/torqueing the actual antenna.  The metal is
apparently soft and you can bend it.

3) Now, what I did was to snip the antenna wire close to the antenna, and
remove & install the new antenna.  You can reach your arm up there to do it
(see above caution,  Use some lockjaws or whatever to hold the unit while
someone else unscrews the nut.

4) I taped a fish to the old antenna wire and pulled it through the interior.

Interior

1) You must remove the floor trim panel on the side by where your
passengers feet go.  I recall there only being a screw that had a plastic
cap on it and then it sliped out.

2) You must lower the trim panel above where your passengers feet go.
(That's all as I recall).  This had a weird thing that looked like a big
pan headed plastic screw but really was sort of push in thing when it came
down to it.

3) The mess of wires up there is lucas's revenge.  For what I don't know.
:-)  Find the one that is the antenna wire, pull it and your fish through.
Note! Have your asitant guide the fish through all of the grommets without
becomming un attatched. I Find soapy water to help.

4) Attach the fish to the new wire and repeat the procedure.  Mine had some
replacement grommets to be reseated. ymmv.

5) The female end of the antenna wire is within reach in the mess of wires
in step 3 above.  You will find it pretty easily.  No radio removal or
center console removal is required (I know, I was amazed as well).

Dunno how you would put in a power one.  I will soon I'm sure.

Bon chance

ttfn

Tom Des Jardins, Inbound Technology Group
FORE Systems (412)635-3374  FAX 635-3333 url http://www.fore.com
5800 Corporate Drive, Pittsburgh, PA 15237-5829

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From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 16:03:30 -0500
Subject: RE: WHEELS & TIRES

On 20 Dec 95 at 10:21, Granville B. Pool wrote:
. . . .
> alloys!).  TW found a Bay Area (SF, CA) dealer taking two sets of these
> steel wheels off 90s to fit alloys and was able to buy them as "new,
> takeoffs" for about $85 each.  Same item commonly sold in UK for about 20-25
> pounds sterling each.  
. . . .
How much do the steel Disco wheels weigh? Maybe I'll pick up a set
next time I'm in U.K. and bring them back as checked baggage.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

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From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 16:03:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Disco antenna replacement

When ("not if) you install the power antenna please report back the
prcedure. Since it appears to be an option in the U.K. there may be
power for it.

On 20 Dec 95 at 15:07, Tom Des Jardins wrote:
> Haveing performed this task I can recommend the purchase of an electric
> retracting antenna and installing it.  I will be doing this when (not if) I
> break my antenna again.  (Of course since it's a disco and I have the 6
> disc yuppie changer, I don't need to rush, but still <g>)
. . . .

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 95 21:20:16 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: Spotting S1 stuff

Just wondering if anyone knows when the S1 went to 86" from 80" ? 

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From: Simon Barclay <sbar@jna.com.au>
Subject: RE: wrenches
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 95 09:01:00 EST

These have been available in Oz for some years now.  I haven't seen them as 
a set though, only as individual units (makes it an expensive way to buy 
them) but they are very handy.  I have only seen them as 1/2" drive.  So far 
I only have a handfull, but they have saved a lot of cursing, grazed 
knuckles etc...

...and yes, they do work well on rounded off ones!!

BTW I have passed a brown 110 twice this week on the Harbour bridge with 
Christmas tinsel wrapped around the bull bar and the aerials.... Is he on 
the 'net??

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------  
 -------------------------------------------------------------------

Simon Barclay
Sydney Australia

'90 5sp RR
'51 Series 1 (Louie)

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From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh_Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date:          Thu, 21 Dec 1995 11:03:34 +1300
Subject:       Re: Whit

> The spanners I've used are marked AF, so far used 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and managed
> to strip a Landy down to the chassis. Using an angle grinder helped :-)

What!  No 7/16?  That's the first spanner I had to buy two of 
for removing landy body parts (closely followed by the 1/2).
 
-- 
Hugh Grierson   hugh_grierson@trimble.co.nz  

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From: Simon Barclay <sbar@jna.com.au>
Subject: RE: Spotting S1 stuff
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 95 09:17:00 EST

Late 1953....

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 17:35:24
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: 'Cappings' and rivet etiquette

>How much of a PITA is it to remove those big-ass rivets and replace
>the cappings.  Those look like 'real' rivets and not the lil'-old
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>Email:  nataraja@cig.mot.com             Mobile: +49-171-854-6670
>----------------------------------------------------------------------

Vel, Vel, Vel- Rovers are riveted together so that body panel repair can be 
done easily in the field. My technique for speedy aluminum rivet removal:
Obtain a sharp carpenters chisel and keep it sharp as you are working.
Using a light to medium hammer, drive the chisel between the rivet head and 
the sheet metal.Don't be shy. 3 to 5 blows should pop the head off and you 
can then drive the remaining rivet guts out of the hole with a small nail 
set. If you worry about marring the surface, try this on the inboard side of 
the panel.
For steel, copper and other metals, I recommend drilling or grinding off the 
tail of the rivet and then carefully driving it out from the inside. 

I don't know about your area but I  take small stuff for galvanizing to a 
place up in Baltimore, where they usually charge me $10-50 depending on the 
size. I've had lots of boat parts and anchor chain dipped, which they'll do 
as a side job.

Don't paint those things it'll look cheesy. 

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Subject: Re: Half Shafts 
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 15:04:11 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

Trevor Easton wrote:
   To add further fuel to the fire of broken half shafts. Ben writes that each 
   of the shafts he has broken occured when parking or pulling away on road. 
   This points to another reason not to have locking /freewheeling hubs on the 
   front. Picture this: Hubs unlocked, pulling away from stop on incline, 
   driver only, no passengers, half shaft breaks. Look no drive, look no 
   parking brake. Help!!!!!. No freewheeling hubs. Just select FWD and 
   continue.

	You could do that.  Whenever I've broken a half-shaft, I've stopped
immediatly.  The more you drive drive around, the greater the change that 
you'll suck a bit into the crowngear and blow the diff.  Almost every Rover
will have something in it that can be used as a chock.  If I'm not doing a
side-of-the-road repair, I remove the propshaft, remove both half shafts and
put the half-shaft end caps back on.  Then I move the Rover.  That way I
don't do any additional damage to the diff.

	Also why put needless wear and tear on the front diff and it's
linkage?  All that does is suck gas and decrease your top speed.

Ben, keeping my Warn hubs the way they are

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 15:16:59 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: Spotting S1 stuff 

In message <199512202139.QAA05991@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote: 
             <199512202139.QAA05991@butler.uk.stratus.com> 
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 15:16:51 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

Mark Talbot asked:

> Just wondering if anyone knows when the S1 went to 86" from 80" ? 
	Autumn 1953.  (It's in the FAQ under Section 3, major evetns.)

Ben

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 20:14:23 -0500 (EST)
From: Rick Grant <rgrant@synapse.net>
Subject: Bosnia travels

Well I'm just back from a month in the former Yugoslavia and a hell of a lot
of it spent in various Land Rovers.

The most dramatic time was a week ago today when I was trying to travel in a
Discovery from Tuzla, north of Sarajevo, to Medugorje, near the coast; a
distance of roughly 300-400 Km.  Well the emphasis was truly on the roughly.
It took us 20 hours to plough our way through the metre of snow that fell
that day.  Despite living in Canada, including eight years in the Arctic,
I've never seen winter driving conditions as bad as they were on that trip.

The worst bit was trying to get over the mountain after Zenica to join the
main road, in fact the only road, that links Sarajevo and the coast.  The
mountain road is called the PacMan route for some odd reason and it's a
hellish ride in any snowfall but beyond description in a one metre blizzard.

It was made all the worse by the dozens, perhaps hundreds, of stuck and
abandoned trucks and other vehicles up one side of the mountain and down the
other.  But that Discovery Tdi simply chugged its way through it all and
somehow kept us from plunging over the edge into some bottomless ravine.

I couldn't get over how that machine never even seemed to think of getting
stuck.  With only a set of chains on the rear wheels it would happily charge
off the barely cleared track into virgin snow and carve its way around any
vehicle blocking the way.  Many times the snow was rolling up over the
bonnet and breaking against the windscreen as we plunged on.

We passed a number of Defenders that weren't doing so well but to be fair to
them they were the armored type and the extra weight, about another tonne
and a half I believe, severely hampered them.

Those armored Def's are true pigs.  I drove one in Sarajevo for a bit and it
was like trying to pilot a submarine on wheels.  All the armored plate puts
a tremendous imbalance into the suspension and even though they're equipped
with stronger springs and shocks they drive more like a boulder crashing
down a mountainside than anything resembling a vehicle.  And then there's
the near total lack of visibility.  The windscreen and the side windows are
much smaller than normal so it's a bit like looking through the driving slit
of a tank.  The glass is bullet proof as well but it's also coated with a
sheet of some sort of plastic that flares any light, such as headlights,
into a blooming cloud of rainbow col ours.  I believe that people with
severe cataracts would recognize the effect.

But there are lots of more stock Defenders roaring around Croatia and
Bosnia-Herzegovina as well as vast numbers of new Discovery's owned by the
United Nations.  The UN Disco's are a bit of a scandal in the Croatian
capital of Zagreb where they don't get much use beyond running around the
city or trips out to the airport.  In fact there are a couple of dozen new
Disco's with every kind of accessory that are only used at the airport by
the UN and Zagreb doesn't get much snow, not to mention that the roads are
BMW smooth.

I didn't see too many "salvageable" wrecks lying around other than in Tuzla
where there is this really nice clump of six S111's sitting in a junkyard
right in the city centre. All but two are sitting on their rubber and
although I couldn't get closer than 30 metres they appear pretty intact,
right down to wipers and spare wheel fittings on the bonnets.

I would think that given the number of trucking outfits now running into
places like Tuzla from other parts of Europe, and the total lack of any back
haul cargo, it might be worthwhile for someone in say Britain to cut a deal
with the junkyard and have a trucker haul them out for restoration.

But that Discovery -- what a nice machine.  

			Rick Grant

rgrant@synapse.net			1959, 88" SII
Ottawa, Canada

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Date: Thu, 21 Dec 95 03:46:03 +0100
From: sm095re@unidui.uni-duisburg.de (Kurt Reinhardt)
Subject: Range Rover lift/springs

Yesterday Dee Brown asks about a proper spring, to give the Range a lift of
2". I just received four springs from EIBACH. I think the best you can get
in germany. They lift the vehicle nearly 2"(5cm). As I am also looking for
shockabsorbers, I even prefer Bilstein, because the Bilstein kit is made to
fit the Eibach springs. The parts number ot the shocks are: Front B46-0243  
rear: B46-0253. The steering dampers number (strongly recommended): B36-0245.

Ciao Kurt

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 22:12:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Whitworth - Info.

BA is short for British Association according to my father-in-law’s 50 yr old
engineering manual.

BA threads:
BA    Bolt diam.    Pitch         Head
6  2.8mm 0.110in  0.53mm 0.020in  0.193in   
4  3.6mm 0.142in  0.66mm 0.026in  0.248in
2  4.7mm 0.185in  0.81mm 0.031in  0.324in
0  6.0mm 0.236in  1.00mm 0.039in  0.412in
Head size is hex across flats and round head diameter
Above from B.S. 93:1919 and B.S. 57:1920
Note that for the bolt diameter and thread pitch the primary dimension is
metric. And that was 75 years ago.

BS and Whitworth hex sizes
BS   Whitworth   Hex AF
3/16   1/8        .340
1/4    3/16       .445
5/16   1/4        .525
3/8    5/16       .600
7/16   3/8        .710
1/2    7/16       .820
9/16   1/2        .920
5/8    9/16      1.010
11/16  5/8       1.100
3/4    11/16     1.200
7/8    3/4       1.300
I can’t see any logical progression of head sizes but I’m sure it made sense
to Mr. Whitworth. I believe that the threads are very different from the more
usual Unified & SAE, with different thread pitches. The Series One Club
offers a Whitworth rethreading tool for straightening bolt threads.

RN & AB among others carry Whitworth/BS tools
Snap-On also has Whitworth sockets, but not wrenches

Hope the above is of help.
David Cockey

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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 22:56:12 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Lugnuts

Robin wrote:

>Did you all know that Dixon won the OVLR lugnut of the year award or has he 
>been a bit shy about telling you all about it?....

Dixon, old chap, this is a truly *major award*.  Do tell!!!  Normally, you 
have to do something creative, like instantly create a new rear garage 
entrance or road-race angle grinders.  Enquiring minds want to know....
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 19:54:02 -0800
From: cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chris Youngson)
Subject: Re: wrenches

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>    Saw an info-mercial a few days ago about a wrench and socket set that has
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>and is supposed to be something currently in use in Europe. Wonder if anybody
>else has seen or has these???   Regards   Steve Bradke  WA2GMC  72 s lll 88
 
I believe these are very (suspisciuously?) like the "surface drive" sockets used
by the auto manufacturers on assembly lines. They will engage and torque a
fastner while the tool is contiuously spinning. They are a series of round 
"points". 73

Chris Youngson, VE7CST
West Vancouver, BC
1965 109

------------------------------
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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 22:56:06 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Breaking up is hard to do...

WRT this thread on broken axles, all three of mine have also been at slow 
(or no) speed in the city.  Curiously, in each instance, I was also wearing 
a three piece suit....

Anyway, two were pulling away from the parking place in front of my 
apartment in those days, and the other was in rush hour (creeping) traffic. 
Of course, I had the coveralls and spares in the back, though I never had 
the luck for them to break at the outer flange...and when they broke, they 
would always fracture and enlarge necessitating a complete diff disassembly.

If one is prone to breaking axles, a nifty trick is to machine a groove near 
the outer splines just a shade smaller than the inner splines.  That way, 
it'll break out where you can grab out the broken stub with pliers and slap 
in  new one.  BTW, broken (long) axles sharpened slightly (has anyone ever 
broken the short side??)  make good, no-cost ground anchors, especially if 
you weld a little ring onto one end so you can link 'em.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------
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From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 23:11:50 -0500
Subject: Disco head lamp levelling

I have seen two references to head lamp levelling in Discos. Both
were probably for U.K. cars. There seems to be a switch and motors
involved. What is it? 

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------
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From: "GAWIE VAN BLERK" <A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za>
Date:          Thu, 21 Dec 1995 08:23:40 GMT+200
Subject:       Re: clutch & clunk (was: re:The Land Rover Own...)

> > Second, I have a question about diff's and drive trains. When I let out 
> > the clutch on my D90 I hear a "clunk" sound. I also get a similar sound 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
> the theory.
> I don't know if the sound is ok, but at least it's common

It is the Ball joint connecting the rear axle to the body on the 
A-frame. Hope this makes sense, I don't know all the technical
terms. It can be tested by inserting a crowbar and see if it moves.

Replace it and enyou the new !!! ride

Greetings

Gawie. 
Gawie van Blerk
---------------------------------------------------------------
Internet : A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za (work)
         : gawie@pixie.co.za (home)
URL      : http://www.pix.za/bloemfontein/gawie.html
Tel      : 27+51+404-2421
---------------------------------------------------------------

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