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Date: 06 Dec 95 02:54:07 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Water, water everywhere...

> door seal was made of a full round tube, not the current "half tube" (for
> lack of a better description) style.  Can anyone confirm, or deny this?

According to my observations and knowledge it's the other way around. All
Series models have the "half tube" or, er, 'thick lip' seals which a) never
seal properly and b) are ridiculously expensive, and later on the 110 and
all later models they put the round, in some cases (later always) 'one-piece'
seals. Tell you what I did on the S.III 109: I was so fed up with having a
wet left arm and wet lap and feet, plus water dribbling from the dash when
driving through rain that one fine summer day I tore out the @!#%& lips,
flexed the seal channels all around down to size (very hard, filthy work..)
and simply stuck on the one-piece round front door seals from a 110. (While
I was at it and in a spending mood I also fitted the full-alu sliding window
front door tops of the 110). No more draught, no more water! ... the rear
doors?  Hmm - not my problem if the passengers get wet, is it?

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 06 Dec 95 02:55:16 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: 6 Year Corrosion Warranty

>        gentleman from Cleveland, OH., who was selling his
>        90 RR that he had both upper and lower tailgates
>        replaced under the 6 Year Corrosion Warranty. ...

I find it quite bold for a dealer to issue a 6-year corrosion warranty on
a RR. Normally you can expect rust to appear on the upper tailgate whithin
less than two years if you're a non-garaged daily driver, and this is an
age-old phenomenon. In that case he might as well give you a voucher for a
complete tailgate replacement on purchase of the vehicle. Typically you get
6 year *full vehicle* corrosion warranties (as opposed to warranties
covering the 'essential supporting bodywork') on vehicles like top-model
Porsches with fully galvanized/carbon chassis - but a RR ? :-/  No dealer
familiar with the RR and in his good sense would cover a RR with a _6_ year
full corrosion warranty unless he already intends to wiggle his way out one
way or the other, or wants to hook the customer under all circumstances,
even if it means having to throw in a tailgate after 4 years...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: kessels.bill%ott01%c14a#@ey.geis.com
Date: Wed,  6 Dec 95 11:39:00 UTC 0000
Subject: 94 D90 Misc.

(LAN Addressees) LRO submissions

Catching up on a few days of digests:

Re: D90 fiberglass hardtop--I think mine is great.  I may even keep it on next
summer--it makes highway driving almost pleasant, and does not leak.  It also
looks very sharp.  I think it is worth the money if you are planning to keep
the D90 for a long time (although, I wonder how long the top will last...).  I
get the installation done at the garage.  It usually takes a couple of guys
there a couple of hours to do it, and I feel that is money well spent.

Re: Roofracks.  There has been a recent thread on Disco roof racks.  Does
anyone have the D90 LRNA/Thule roof rack system.  I saw it advertised in the
Rovers North Christmas flyer--it attaches to the roll cage above the doors, a
novel idea.  I am wondering if they will continue to make this base unit much
longer, given the lack of production of the D90 in the future.  I.e. should
buy one soon, or if there are other solutions which work based on more readily
available racks.

Hi Lift jack:  I think I will put mine across the back of the front seats, and
lash it down to the lower support for the roll cage.  I also use that support
to hold a fire extinguisher and a shovel.  It fits with a couple of inches to
spare.

Bill Kessels, kesselsb@ey.geis.com
94 D90 #CDN 67  (P.S. Does anybody know how many Canadian D90's were
imported?)

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Grafton's Gallops
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 95 12:01:26 GMT

I've received a postcard from young Andrew,postmarked
Jerusalem(I think) dated 22 11 95.It shows an aerial
shot of the Judean desert.Andy says they have driven
across both this and the Negev.He also says they didnt
mean to,but it seemed like a good idea at the time.
In the Negev,it seems that the Land Rovers drank 50L
of fuel each,took three days to cover 80km.
Nothing has bust,yet,they've had trouble with one
Hardy Spicer joint,and there is some bad language
(wherever did he learn *that*?)about the headlamp
switches.
Route is:Belgium,Germany,Austria,Hungary,Romania,
Bulgaria,Greece,Israel.Next step into Sinai,then
Egypt,Djibouti or Mombasa on a boat to get around
Sudan.
Message for Al Richer,the XCL's work best at 60
rear 45 front on road,full load,50 rear 36 front
off road full load.
I hear any more,I'll let you know.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

PS They dont hang about,do they?

:wq

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 23:05:52 +1100 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: 18 days to Christmas

if you come across any new LR toys could you plsz send me
the details for a toy web page:
   http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Toys/index.html

(couple of new fire-engine pictures on the fire engine page too)

Lloyd

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 95 8:19:27 -30000
From: "Adam Messer" <amesser@usaid.gov>
Subject: Disco roof rack capacity

Be careful when wieghting up your Disco roof rack.  We had jerricans, a 
propane tank, extra water, etc on top.  Over the bumpy roads the rack 
deformed slightly--and mashed the rain channels.  The enamel (or whatever) 
over the welds has cracked and the rack is now rusting a little.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 08:04:10 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Oil everywhere but in the sump!

  Kevan Shaw writes:
> I have an '82  88" diesel which runs fine except it has a habit of chucking
 lots of oil out the breather on the rocker cover, particularly on long
 runs. The local Land-Rover Gurus keep winding tape round the breather cap
> to no avail.
Sounds like the same "mechanic" that adds stuff to brake fluid to 
make the seals swell to "cure" poor brakes.

> The problem is longstanding, i.e. ever since I have owned the
 thing, the engine runs well, starts well and only  shows a very little
 smoke at the oil filler, so I guess there is a bit of blow-by at the
 piston rings however it was recently compression tested and pronounced
> within operating limits.  Anyone any ideas as to what could be a cure?

Proper ring to bore clearance is the only cure I can think of. 
Perhaps the compression test was done under a condition that shows it 
fine, but under other operating conditons blow by occurs.
Good luck. I'd be interested in what cures it.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 1995 15:04:14 +0001
From: wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy Wassili)
Subject: X-mas and New Year

################################################################################
                             /\          ||||||||   
        A                   /0\\        |  O  O  |  \\\\////
      merry                0//\\0      |     \    |  \\\///
    christmas              ///0\\       |  -__-  |     || 
       and                0///\\\0       ||||||||      ||O
        a                 //0/\\\\      |    ||| |-----|o
      happy              0////\0\\0    |    ||    |----|o 
     new year            ///0/\\\\\   |            |   ||
                        0    ||    0   |          |    ||
                             ||         |        |     ||
                         ----/\----      |______|      ||
                                          /_\ /_\      ||

                 ____  
      |   _____/|__||                     \\\\\        |\       |\
      |  /(-8|  \   |                      \\\\\\\\   _| |_    _| |_
  ____|_/[]__|__\___|#                |8   \\\\\\\\\\\\ 
 |] __=|     |  __  |#               8|-8---\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\  |\
[|_/  \|_____|_/  \_|]_o8888888888888o888---//////////////// _| |_
  ( o )        ( o )                  |    ////////////      
                                           ////////    |\      |\
                                          /////       _| |_   _| |__
################################################################################
Roy "waiting for Santana Claus" Wassili

P.S. Santana's are named this way cause Santa used to drive
     these things way before he switched to red nosed Rudolph
     and made this na..na..na.. noise trying to get the thing 
     started in the freezing cold! :-D

P.P.S. I know it's a bit early to send x-mas cards, but just
       couldn't resist!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 16:11:56 -0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: "Strange Noises", '96 Disco, Manual

Mark,

Yes, Yes, i've had that noise too in my SIII SWB Diesel.
In my case the universal joints and moveable joint on the front prop shaft
where completely buggered.
I had the propshaft re-built and BALANCED and the problem went away...

Maybe the prop shaft only needs to be balanced, If it is not balanced it
will also cause a vibration/noise even if the uj's and moveable joint are
perfect.

Cheers
Brian Cotton
Land Rover Owners Club of SOUTH AFRICA
SIII 2.5 LWB TURBO INTERCOOLED DIESEL CAMPER
SIII 2.25 SWB DIESEL (E HEADER + BIG BORE EXHAUST)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 16:12:06 -0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: Hi-lift

Gents and La(n)dies,

Here in SA we have two different goodies which we use to Hi-lift Defenders,
Discos and RRs out of nasty places:

The first goodie is a length of tubing with a square bit which fits over the
jaw of the hi-lift and slots into the holes in the rear crossmember/bumper
of the Defender.

The second goodie is a square-ish bit which fits on the hi-lift with a short
length of chain and a hook which one hooks under the bumper (on the towing
eye I think ? :-] )

I think the LRO magazine has some pictures, if you need more info mail me.

Brian Cotton
Land Rover Owner's Club of SOUTH AFRICA
SIII LWB TURBO INTERCOOLED DIESEL CAMPER
SIII SWB 2.25 DIESEL  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 16:11:47 -0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: Re: Galvanising and junior framemaster

David,

An extremely important thing to do prior to galvanising a chassis is to
clean the inside out VERY VERY VERY well. If this is not done then the bits
of gunge and sand (gravel and sand blasting sand) living in the hidden
corners will get soaked in acid and when galvanised, these acid blobs get
covered by zinc and start rusting away happily.

On the older vehicles it sometimes happens that the cross-member under the
gearbox blows up or sometimes explodes. Exploding is very rere but the
bulging  is about 40 %, it is not serious though.

Have fun
Brian Cotton Land Rover Owners Club of South Africa
LR SIII 2.5l intercooled Turbo Diesel safari camper
LR SIII 2.25 Diesel (E-Header + big bore) Goes like a bomb)

bcotton@lia.co.za

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 06:31:34 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: 6 Year Corrosion Warranty

At 02:55 AM 12/6/95 EST, Stefan R. Jacob wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>Stefan
><Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>
The 6 year corrosion warrenty is from LRNA. In Detroit they are very good
about honoring it. My frend just had 6K worth of work done under warranty.
It is nice to see someone stand by their product for a change.

Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 08:45:37 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: buying land rovers long distance.

Made a couple of telephone calls last night -- I am looking
for a 58-68 SIIa and some of the old hemming's ads sounded
interesting.  But it made me think and I am requesting some
net-wisdom here.  

What are some things to do and not do when buying a vehicle 
long distance (successes and horror stories welcome -- i could
summarize for the FAQ if enough responses).

-- OK, one thing is to have a fairly complete list of what
   is important to you and what is not.  And have an idea
   what certain features might be worth if presence (or
   absent).
-- I understand that sometimes you might have to make the
   trip, see the truck, and be able to walk away because the
   vehicle was not represented correctly -- probably need
   to have that understanding clear before making the trip.
-- my first instinct is to start haggling over price, 
   but how do you do that when you haven't even seen the truck.
-- i've heard stories where people have sent money and never
   seen it again -- this was told in the vein of used parts, but
   it could be true for whole vehicles, too.  how are deposits
   handled.
-- photos can be helpful -- a video, even better.
-- buying from the LR restoration houses that have cropped up
   in the past couple of years.  Their prices seem to be
   out of line to me, but a vehicle with many major components
   renewed does have additional value.
-- Advice on determining value.  The FAQ, past experience comes
   into play here, but LR prices seem to be climbing faster
   than I can comprehend.  Asking price and selling price are
   two different things.  Better to answer ads early, or let
   them age for 2-3 months.
-- Pros and cons of 1)driving, 2)towing, 3)haul-for-hire a
   vehicle 1000 miles or so.  On one hand, I want to save money
   and have an adventure, but how much adventure can I handle?

my only other car was 1200 miles away and i paid $750.  I towed
it and all went well -- it was an adventure (and fun, too).  I
figured I couldn't go wrong -- but $4000-$7000 is another
story.

Any advice would be appreciated along these lines...

Ray Harder (siia 88 (lulu))

------------------------------

From: "MR PETER KEMP" <PKEMP@lark.ru.ac.za>
Date:          Wed, 6 Dec 1995 17:30:26 GMT+200
Subject:       general

Greetings,

A group of us intend embarking on a trip to Malawi next year in June 
and would like to hear from folk who might have travelled up that 
way. There are two ways of getting from Zimbabwe, either going 
through Zambia or through the Tete corridor in Mozambique. Different 
people have different nightmares to tell about each! Is there anyone 
out there who can throw some light on either of these options?

Land Rover watches -WARNING!!!

On the topic of the Land Rover watches that someone mentioned awhile 
back - I have just swopped mine for the third time. Each time there 
has been a problem with the Alarm not switching off, after a couple 
of months. Apparantly they have been withdrawn (in the last two days) 
by Land Rover because of this problem. 

Series 11A Forward-Control Motorhome for sale:

For anyone who fancies travelling across the African Continent - A 
friend of mine is selling the above vehicle in South Africa.

It is in excellent condition and has only 6000km on the clock.

Other features :

Pop-up roof. Eazi-awn. Roof Carriers. 100L water tank. 240L fuel 
capacity. Dual Batteries. Hot water to sink, basin and shower. 
Mosquito netting. Flourescent lights. Radio/tape. Loads of storage 
space. etc. Access from camper into the front cab.

Price : UK 12 500 pounds or SA R 70 000

Feel free to contact me directly on e.mail pkemp@lark.ru.ac.za
or Wayne Sparg Tel (0431) 312077(w) (0431) 54159(h). 9 Linaria Drive, 
Vincent Heights, East London. 5200. South Africa.

Cheers.

------------------------------

From: Danny Phillips <danny@tlpgate.lonpar.co.uk>
Subject: Bunmps and clunks
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 95 16:49:08 GMT

Dear all, well there i was over here in blighty, concerned that the great 
banging and crashing coming from our disco was due to the fact that my wife
tries to emulate nigel mansell whenever she pulls away from the lights.

seriously i do need some advice. i had noticed a thumping (?) noise coming
from the drivetrain esp when coasting / slowing at about 30mph, i thought that
the wheel bearings where / are on their way out. anyway i also checked her over
what with the threat of snow etc. she was low on oil so i glugged in 2L
(mobil 1 incidentally). she is definately quieter at idle, but despite the fact
that my diagnosis of this thumping was bearings (and despite the fact that it
was no more noticible around corners - a symptom i understand) the noise seems
to have all but gone. she could probably do with a bit more oil (more mobil 1)
but could the noise just have been an oil pump working overtime ?

by the way i did post about my power steering pump leaking a while back my
chaps (the garage that do the work for me) say not to worry until it litrally 
starts pouring out (they said they would let me know when it was time to change
) they also recommended a recon unit, they have just fitted one to a RR with 
130,000miles on the clock and it is going great guns after another 2000miles in
4 weeks (including off-road, the chaps been up to scotland).

lastly the CT discos stay upright with all that extra load as they why the
nutters drive them, the centrafugal force generated by their speed round the 
world counters and gravity pulling it over. :-)

hope the snow settles i can earn a few bob then towinf fords out of ditches :-)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 95 11:50:58 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: is the RR diff slop/preload adjustable?

In reference to the Rangie diffs,   Is the preload ("slop"-?) adjustable
w/o resetting the R+P set?  Or should one just get another R+P set?

as long as you're here...
 
(to aussies) How easy and cheap is it to find a 4.4 from P76, pref.?
Is the difference in CR between P76 and Terrier in pistons or heads?

Will stock 4.2/4.6 crank fit the 3.5 block, or are we still looking
only at specialty stroker kits ($$$)

Hot Rod march 85 issue - building a 305 from 215 using BOP 300 crank -
I might be getting a reprint, please check with me in a couple of days.

Also, in ref. to recent RR cam swap post (thanks for the update !!)...
Did you say that Crane had 2 diff. grinds for EFI and carbed 3.5l?
They only show the 256,262 and 27? grinds in their "Energizer" line
AFAIK. 

Any comments? Messrs. Andy(2), Geof, Brian?

Still trying to tune the CD's on the 3.5 v8 in the 109....
Jan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 1995 11:48:48 -0500
From: Stephen Thomas <stephen.thomas@tridom.com>
Subject: Receiver-Mounted Winch

Gentle Readers:

Any thoughts, comments, or experiences with receiver-mounted winches?
I'm particularly interested in the Class III receiver mounted
8000lb Warn Winch (along with the Class III front receiver) listed
in the latest Rovers North Catalog. I'd be installing said device
in a 94 Disco.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.

--Stephen

____________________________________________________________
Stephen Thomas
AT&T Tridom                 Phone: (770) 514-3522
840 Franklin Court          Fax:   (770) 514-3491
Marietta, GA 30067  USA     Email: stephen.thomas@tridom.com

------------------------------

From: "P. Suryono Adisoemarta" <paulus@nextover.pe.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Help selecting a CB radio.
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 09:26:45 -0800 (PST)

According to DEBROWN@SRP.GOV:
>Which antenna should I get? Any mounting locations or suggestions?

I could not answer about CB antenna, but when I drove my LR to the
jungle of Sumatra (Indonesia) with my homebuild 80 meter ham radio, 
I use a bottom
loading vertical antenna that I mount on that 'bumper' little pipe
thingy on the back of the chassis.
I clamp midway of the antenna to the rain gutter, to reduce the whip.

If I would drive again, I'll just use a 2 meter radio with power amp
and a shorter antenna, so I don't have to worry with snapping the ant.
Sumatra is already well covered with 2 meter repeaters anyway (yes, that's
cheating, like somebody said ;)

Dave, let us know when you got your license ;)

73 de Paulus

-- 
Paulus Suryono Adisoemarta		paulus@nextover.pe.utexas.edu (NeXT!)
N5SNN / YG1QN				yono@parokinet.org (Linux!)
Abu:   I wonder why everybody knows that I am a newbie on the internet
Nawas: That's because you just forwarded the 'Good Times virus' mail to everyone

------------------------------

From: "Brazelle, Amy (TRW)" <brazelle@hsv.mdc.com>
Subject: Seat Belts
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 95 12:22:00 PST

Can anyone recommend some replacement seat belts for the back seat of my 
husband's 1966 SIIA 109?  I'm trying to find something "Rover" for him for 
Christmas.  He has already replaced the front belts with lap/shoulder belts. 
 He doesn't have any in the back seat so we don't go out in the Rover a lot 
because the belts aren't there.  He has the old belts but they look pretty 
bad.  I guess lap belts would be sufficient.  I need the type and part 
number please (and I guess a phone number for Rovers North or British 
Pacific).  If I asked him for this information he would get a little 
suspicious!!!

Thanks!!!  Please email any suggestions to Brazelle@hsv.mdc.com

Amy Brazelle
Huntsville, Alabama USA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 95 13:34:52 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re: buying land rovers long distance.

To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Made a couple of telephone calls last night -- I am looking
for a 58-68 SIIa and some of the old hemming's ads sounded
interesting.  But it made me think and I am requesting some
net-wisdom here.  

What are some things to do and not do when buying a vehicle 
long distance (successes and horror stories welcome -- i could
summarize for the FAQ if enough responses).

1) I bought my Rover in upstate NY, 500 miles from home.

2) I drove it back. Depends on condition of car, towing a car can be
expensive /annoying/ dangerous, especially if you aren't experienced.
Same for driving it I guess. U-Haul will set up the tow rig for you but
you've got to drive it...  If you're driving back, bring lots of tools and a
good credit card.

3) Read between the lines, ask LOTS of questions. Consider that a "good"
frame in upstate NY is not the same as a "good" frame in AZ. My frame was
described as "good condition, and has been undercoated" Well, "good" meant
somewhere between poor and very good, and the undercoating took place in
1985. The frame is now breaking. The PO also claimed rebuilt transmission by
Rovers North, which I have found out also took place in 1985.  Gearbox now
pops out of first.

4) Don't be afraid to back out. I had really set my sights on this one, and
got the guy to come down a bit on the price, so I took it. I did okay and
will have a great truck when I'm done. But I'm doing a frame over which is
not what I had quite planned.  By the time I'm done I will have prob'ly
spent as much as I would have on a local vehicle ($6-7,000) This is actually
ok, because the grand lump of cash to buy a more finished car was not
available to me, but charging a couple of hundred a month on parts is no
problem (haha) I may have been better off waiting and going back empty
handed, but probably not. Also, I just wanted to "get one" which I did, and
I've had a lot of fun driving it in between working on it. Fact is its hard
to get a good Rover for a good price, and they usually need more work than
you think.  Even if you buy a "good" one for $7,000+, you'll probably ending
up spending alot more on it.

5) Make a trip out of it if you're driving back. Setting a deadline or
trying to do it in one day (depending on the distance) could be a bad idea,
as you may end up pushing the vehicle too hard, or stressing yourself,
especially if something goes wrong, then you feel like you are being
"delayed".

6) This should be number one. Try to find a local Rover owner that knows
their chops to go look at the vehicle. This will give you the advantage of
an unbiased opinion. Anybody that's done a full restoration him(her)self
will probably know what to look for, as he/she will have already had to
repair the critical sections of their vehicle...  NEVER send ANY money for a
vehicle you haven't seen or had checked out. Don't even send money for
pictures as I suspect there are people that make a living off of this. I
know of somebody who paid a grand sum for a vehicle sight unseen and had it
trucked to his home. He would have been able to get a much better deal or
walk away if he had been to see it. The vehicle was cosmetically and
structurally almost perfect, but severely lacking in the mechanical section.
It'll still be a superb, clean vehicle when everything's straightened
out, but it should have cost a bit less.

7) No matter how bad it is, somebody else always has it worse. There isn't
anything so extreme that can go wrong with these cars (trucks?) that can't
be somewhat anticipated. I heard the noise my gearbox made before I bought
it, but it was just on the reverse gear so I didn't worry. The vehicle is
still driveable, as it only pops out on the overrun... a small inconvenience
(especially going down steep hills:-)). I'll have a galvanised frame in a
few months and I'll switch everything over as is.  After that, new
bolts+lots of anti-seeze means I can easily take it apart to get the gearbox
out, etc... at my lesiure.

Hope this doesn't muddy the water. I guess if you sum it all up, buying a
Rover, even locally, isn't for the faint of heart, and you must understand
that there are times when you will wish you had never bought it, or that
Land-Rovers never existed to tempt you into buying them. But you bought it,
and they do exist, and they always manage to win you over. All those trials
have been worth it for me, and you will NEVER get a perfect Rover, so don't
worry about it.

                     The End
David  Bobeck
72 SIII "Green Car"
Washington DC
dbobeck@ushmm.org

------------------------------

Subject: Re: buying land rovers long distance. 
Date: Wed, 06 Dec 1995 12:00:17 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <199512061449.JAA01859@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote:

> What are some things to do and not do when buying a vehicle 
> long distance (successes and horror stories welcome -- i could
> summarize for the FAQ if enough responses).

	Do so.  :)

> -- buying from the LR restoration houses that have cropped up
>    in the past couple of years.  Their prices seem to be
>    out of line to me, but a vehicle with many major components
>    renewed does have additional value.

	And part of the problem is that to them time=money.  So if it
takes 40 hours of mechanics time to fix it up, how can they not add $1000
to the price and stay in business?  ($25/hour is cheep labor for mechanics)
Certain vendors trying to sell, or actually selling restored Series LRs for
$50k is way too much (IMO).  Heck, I think $40k is too much for a '93 NAS D110.

> -- Advice on determining value.  The FAQ, past experience comes
>    into play here, but LR prices seem to be climbing faster
>    than I can comprehend.  

	I personally think that the reason that prices of Series LRs are
skyrocketing in the US is because of the influx of newer LRs, especially
Discos and D90s.  I've noticed a few D90 people buying Series Rovers to
restore.   After dropping $30k on a D90 or Disco, $7k or $10k on a running
Series vehicle may seem like a good buy.   And how many Series Rovers
change hands in the US every year?  100?  All it takes is a few sales for
the percieved price to go up.   I also wonder if the rising in prices is
because people see the US '93 D110s being advertised at $44k to $48k (I
think the origional price was $40k) and think that Series LRs are collectables
whose price will rise with time.  This trend will also drive the price up.
A third trend, at least in CA, is that pre-1966 Rovers don't have to be
Smogged.  As Smog laws get tougher and tougher, those Rovers, or atleast
the serial numbers thereof, will have more valuable.  How many "pre-1966 SIIA"
SIIIs have you seen lately? 

>    Asking price and selling price are two different things.  

	I'd like to update the FAQ for pricing, but the only data that I
ever see is asking price.  I'm hesitant to put average asking prices in the
FAQ because that is a positive feed back loop.  (Newby reads FAQ, buys Rover
at inflated price, asking prices go up so FAQ reflects this,...)  
	As a general note, the FAQ only has Series LR prices from the US/Canada
in the early 90's.  It is not trying to exclude the rest of the world, but
those were the only data points that Dixon had.   Do the UK memembers feel
that the prices shown in the back of LRO and LRW reflect the current LR market
in the UK?  If so I could use that for a UK data point.   If Australian, 
African, German, Danish, etc list members email me with what they feel is the
current market price for any type of Land Rover in their country/area, I'll
compile the data and add it to the FAQ.

> -- Pros and cons of 1)driving, 2)towing, 3)haul-for-hire a
>    vehicle 1000 miles or so.  On one hand, I want to save money
>    and have an adventure, but how much adventure can I handle?

	Personally I'd go with 1 or 2 and that would depend upon the condition
of the vehicle.  A daily runner, I'd drive 1000 miles.  One that has sat in
a field without running for the last 5 years, I'd be a lot more uncomforable
about driving 1000 miles.   (If you are going to drive it, bring a box full
of likely spares)

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 15:09:47 -0500
Subject: Racks and weights

You wrote: "	Unclear.  Most racks on Series Land Rovers just bolt to the rain
channel.  That's how mine is attached (actually only clamped to the rain
gutter--and it's a full length).  I've carried hundreds of pounds of stuff
up there without any damage."

I'm curious.  Every rack with the exceptions of the CT vehicles seems to use
the rain gutters with no other bracing.  Every catalog that I have shows
loaded racks (usually with gear bags, two jerry cans, a spare and shovel/high
lift) on the rack attached to the gutters.

The Discovery is around 110 lbs.  It will be interesting (at least to me) to
see what the weights are for the others.  Would owners of Range Rovers and
Defenders mind posting the weights that Land Rover recommends not be exceeded
on the List?

(BTW: for those in Phx, I just requested the Safety Devices catalog and will
be happy to share it out on request.... )

Gerry 

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  6 Dec 95 15:26:27 EST
Subject: Anybody want a Lumenition module?

I ended up buying the Crane/Allison unit for my Rover, and as such have a 
Lumenition module I don't need.

$20 plus shipping takes it.

  aj"Gotta clean house SOMETIME..."r

------------------------------

From: Simon Barclay <sbar@jna.com.au>
Subject: Re: Galvanising and junior framemaster
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 95 07:42:00 EST

James

Where did you get the price of $AUD 0.80 per kilo??  I have an early Series 
1 chassis which is just about ready for the big dip but haven't yet 'let my 
fingers do the walking'.  Still have a few things to pull off but it should 
be ready by Christmas.  Any thing else I should look out for?

Simon Barclay
Sydney Australia
'90 5sp RR
'51 Series 1 (Louie)

E-mail:   sbar@jna.com.au
 ----------
From: LRO-Owner
Subject: Re: Galvanising and junior framemaster
Date: Wednesday, 6 December 1995 4:46PM

To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Michel said that galvanising is $0.75 per POUND in Canada. In Australia it 
is approx $AUD 0.80 per KILOGRAM which seems like a bargain. Australian and 
Canadian Dollars are approx equal.

My only extra advice is that galvanising can tend to warp or twist things, 
so be prepared for this; not to the point of unservicability though.

I'm a big fan of galvanising. Why don't LR galvanise the firewall panels? 
Australian army 110's have gal chassis. I've got to get around to blasting 
and galvanising my bullbar.

James Carley
'85 110 County 3.9D

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 12:42:26 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>

I will be on the left coast this weekend, and have an oppertunity to break
a brand new disco.... One of my friends is picking it up today.
Any recomendations of a good off road trail to do it right???
It is even white (a real virgin)
I will be in the San Jose area.

Thanks
Russ

Russ Burns
cisco/Ford
313-317-0451

------------------------------

Date: 06 Dec 95 15:52:21 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: "Strange Noises"

>When coasting to a stop with the clutch in, my '96 NAS Disco sometimes makes 
>a rattling sound in the drivetrain. This seems to be most noticeable after 
>driving for half an hour or more (everything warmed up) and appears to be 
...
>After about 500 miles it started make the exact same sound. The sound only 
>occurs when coasting to a stop and then only when speed pretty slow. Under 
>power the sound goes away.
...
>Anyone else out there experience this? I wouldn't expect it to happen with 
>an automatic. Given it was present in 2 different Disco's, I suppose things 
>are as they should be. There are no other odd symptoms and otherwise the 

I posted a message on this phenomenon 1, maybe 2 weeks ago... It's the
transmission brake (hand brake) drum. We also have this problem with many of
the Defenders we get. There seems to be a particular assembly line in Solihul
which is manned by a bunch of jerks who constantly screw up the transmission
brake assembly (adjusted to tight, shoes out of toe, loose/oily linings etc.)
Clean out, re-assemble and properly adjust the transmission brake, and the
problem will go away (unless it's something else...).

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: 06 Dec 95 15:52:12 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: RR power steering boxes

>Has anyone replaced their PSB, how long did it take, I just read an old LRO 
>article where the guy said it took a few hours. That would seem about right, 

The replacement as such is straightforward, it's pulling out the drop arm
ball joint and realigning the steering geometry which can be time consuming
and requires special tools. You also have to clear a few things out of the
way to have proper access (alternator, air filter, PS-liquid reservoir...)

>Would you guys reccomend a rebuilt or exchange or new. I got a few quotes 
>from the UK for rebuilt factory units that work out about $300, new are $600 

Rebuilt - no. Exchange units are ok, but as far as I know, Land Rover
officially doesn't sell exchange units in the UK, only new ones; so you'd
have to get one from outside the the UK (like KIMMAN in Holland), unless
you settle for aftermarket/no-name. I'd advise to go for the improved
exchange unit NTC1583E (NTC1583 if it's a new unit). For this unit you also
need a different type of drop arm, the old one won't fit (unless you
already have the NTC1583 unit installed). Price: GBP 440.- for a new box,
or GBP 225.- for the exchange unit in the UK (don't forget to specify LHD!)

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 15:51:34 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Re: buying land rovers long distance.

On Wed, 6 Dec 1995, Wes Newman wrote:
> Subject: Re: buying land rovers long distance.
> I have one suggestion.  If the frame is bad, stay away from it. 

 well, actually, that was the conversation over the noon hour.
say you can get a galvanized frame for $2500 on-site.  and say that
you can do a frame-over in 6 days as someone noted earlier this
month.  i have a mechanic that would do it for me for $300 per
day.  this guy is good -- he could likely find me someone less
experienced or do it off-shift -- say $200 per day which adds
up to $1200.  If I could get an old LR for $2000 with a rotted
frame and put $3700 into it, I still am ahead of the $6000 being
asked for the arizona car.  (which has burnt upholstry and seals and
paint burnt off by the intense sun)  And this allows me to look 
east of the mississippi.

tough questions/tougher answers...

sign me ---
confused in missouri...

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 17:34:53 -0500
Subject: Jim Pappas 

ALL;        Need an e-mail address for Jim Pappas..... Have some info I need
to send him.  Thanks     Steve Bradke  72 slll 88        ASFCO@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Dec 1995 22:58:59 +0000
From: Kevan Shaw <kevan@krshaw.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Oil consumption

Thanks for the advice folks, It seems rather a depressing prospect of a
major engine rebuild to cure it. Graham harden asked if it passed the Euro
emission test, wellit did as they only check for exhaust emission which is
clean, thankfully they don't count oil spots on the floor under the Landie,
if they did very few would pass!

I see a lot of people asking about Hi-Lift jacking Discos. There is a
company in Scotland who make bolt on jack sockets  called NSC design, if
anyone is interested I'll try and find the phone number and post it.

Kevan Shaw

****************Ars Longa Vita Brevis ***************
********************Tempus Fugit********************
********************Festina Lente********************

------------------------------

Subject: Re: buying land rovers long distance. 
Date: Wed, 06 Dec 1995 15:26:01 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

Ray Harder wrote:
> On Wed, 6 Dec 1995, Wes Newman wrote:
> > Subject: Re: buying land rovers long distance.
> > I have one suggestion.  If the frame is bad, stay away from it. 

> On Wed, 6 Dec 1995, Wes Newman wrote:
  well, actually, that was the conversation over the noon hour.
 say you can get a galvanized frame for $2500 on-site.  and say that
 you can do a frame-over in 6 days as someone noted earlier this
 month.  i have a mechanic that would do it for me for $300 per
 day.  this guy is good -- he could likely find me someone less
 experienced or do it off-shift -- say $200 per day which adds
 up to $1200.  If I could get an old LR for $2000 with a rotted
 frame and put $3700 into it, I still am ahead of the $6000 being
 asked for the arizona car.  
> On Wed, 6 Dec 1995, Wes Newman wrote:

	Remember that frame overs aren't just a new frame.  New bushings,
probably new U bolts, lots of bolts for body fasteners that will shear when
you attempt to take them off.  You probably need to replace some or all of
the brake lines.   While you are moving the engine, are you going to replace
the clutch and throwout bearing?  I could see another $1000 tacked on in
parts before you are done.  (At least).  I'm not saying that you wouldn't have
to do this on another Rover that you buy, but there you could spread the
repair bills out a bit.   Shipfitter's disease is expensive.   

Ben, (who has a used frame awaiting an upcoming frameover on a daily (and only)
      driver)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 18:37:04 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: SII vs SIIA

On Tue, 5 Dec 1995, Roger Sinasohn wrote:

> > Solid, 1 piece front doors, at least on the 109s.  I've got a couple of 
> > these from a 1959/60 wreck.  The doors have a number of other different 
> > features associated with this major change.

> Nope.  My '59 109" has 2-piece doors.

	One piece doors on the Series I 88" and Series II's basically 
	designate a "Canadian Spec" Land Rover.  There are other options
	that went with this.  (On the Series I's, the serial number carries
	a lower case "c")

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 1995 18:44:59
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: Overdrive and the sound of one hand clapping...

Last saturday's tragic breakdown of the '66 S2A (initiating a cascade failure 
of the wife's car...another sad tale) has gotten me to think about small 
spinning metal things a lot recently(see: Bill's brain). I strongly suspect 
the Fairey overdrive unit let go. this would explain why an otherwise happy 
truck would suddenly stop dead. Have any other readers felt that same BANG ?
If so how big a deal is it to  restore the mainshaft bearing carrier and 
drive on.
Will do a thorough diagnosis tomorrow. 

Always up to  my elbows in something... 
Bill Adams
3Dmentia
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington,MD 20895
301-949-9475

1966 S2a 109" SW Diesel "Keeping it stock in the face of common sense"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 1995 18:59:16
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: Overdrive and the sound of one hand clapping...

Last saturday's tragic breakdown of the '66 S2A (initiating a cascade failure 
of the wife's car...another sad tale) has gotten me to think about small 
spinning metal things a lot recently(see: Bill's brain). I strongly suspect 
the Fairey overdrive unit let go. this would explain why an otherwise happy 
truck would suddenly stop dead. Have any other readers felt that same BANG ?
If so how big a deal is it to  restore the mainshaft bearing carrier and 
drive on.
Will do a thorough diagnosis tomorrow. 

Always up to  my elbows in something... 
Bill Adams
3Dmentia
4016 Spruell Drive
Kensington,MD 20895
301-949-9475

1966 S2a 109" SW Diesel "Keeping it stock in the face of common sense"

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Racks and weights 
Date: Wed, 06 Dec 1995 16:36:54 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <199512062010.PAA02082@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote:
  
> The Discovery is around 110 lbs.  It will be interesting (at least to me) to
> see what the weights are for the others.  Would owners of Range Rovers and
> Defenders mind posting the weights that Land Rover recommends not be exceeded
> on the List?

Based on Land Rover North America  and LR, UK brosures 

1996 NAS Discovery          110lbs (50kg)  (to rain gutter)
1996 NAS Range Rover (Mk2)  176lbs (80kg)  (to mount points in roof)
1995 NAS Defender 90        100lbs         (Thule system to roll bars)
1993 NAS Defender 100       (not listed/I didn't write it down for the web page)
1995 Defender (world wide)  (not listed/I didn't write it down for the web page)

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re:4.4L stuff
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 1995 11:09:25 +1030 (CST)

> (to aussies) How easy and cheap is it to find a 4.4 from P76, pref.?
> Is the difference in CR between P76 and Terrier in pistons or heads?

CR difference is in the pistons.  if you use 8.13 CR rover pistons in the 4.4
leyland you end up with ~ 9.0:1  so its real easy to get high CR's...
  motors are around if you ask the right people, prices vary  but say
$3-400AUD for a rebuilder.  Apart from the rocker gear parts are basically
rover.  the waterpump etc is different but if you want to use the motor in a
landy you will need the Rangie timing cover anyway.   Oh yeah the 4.4 leyland
uses a thick(ish) composite head gasket (like a felpro or McCord).

As an aside be aware that the felpro/Mccord composite gaskets when used on
your 3.5 will gobble CR, compared to the factory tin ones.  ISTR that if I use
composites on my 8.13 I end up with a 7.5 or 7.6.  I supopose they may be a
cheap way of getting ULP capability from a 9.35 Rangie motor  havent done the
sums.....  

I dont know about the stroker kits being so expensive.  At least over here
by the time I pay for crank and rods crack testing, new rod bolts, new
pistons and fitting , crank grind, reciprocating mass balance, rings and
bearings I'm up for something like ~$1500AUD..  A 4.2 stroker kit with all
new bits can be had for $2300-2500AUD.
-- 

  Daryl

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Dec 1995 22:58:59 +0000
From: Kevan Shaw <kevan@krshaw.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Oil consumption

Thanks for the advice folks, It seems rather a depressing prospect of a
major engine rebuild to cure it. Graham harden asked if it passed the Euro
emission test, wellit did as they only check for exhaust emission which is
clean, thankfully they don't count oil spots on the floor under the Landie,
if they did very few would pass!

I see a lot of people asking about Hi-Lift jacking Discos. There is a
company in Scotland who make bolt on jack sockets  called NSC design, if
anyone is interested I'll try and find the phone number and post it.

Kevan Shaw

****************Ars Longa Vita Brevis ***************
********************Tempus Fugit********************
********************Festina Lente********************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 20:29:41 -0500 (EST)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: Re: synthetic

Here's my experiences...  In 5 years of owning my newer LR - a 1970 88", 
I have done a lot of oil changing!  But never to my diffs or overdrive 
after putting synthetic oil in them - done mainly because in northern VT 
it gets down to -29 degrees F and I need to get around.  I highly 
recommend spending the cash on those areas only - don't waste your money 
on an older motor, since it burns away twice as fast and leaks like a 
seive.  Perhaps on a new model, since seals are tight and it aids in 
lowering wear and tear... motto - if cold, lube synthetically - if not, 
don't bother (this applies to both regional temps as well as operating 
temps!).

Frank Twarog
"Brrrrlington" VT

------------------------------

Date: 06 Dec 95 20:46:02 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: disco rear door clunks

     to Chris Boese, 
     
     While mine developed a door squeak after an off road trip, I am not 
     convinced that it is the door. sounds more plasticky to me. I'll have 
     it checked out at the 15k service. I really need to take a ride in the 
     trunk (while some one drives) and try to pinpoint it.
     
     check this out too. above the lock on the rear door is a guide plate. 
     the dealer (Metro west in natick ma) tell me that they have seen two 
     types, a metal to metal (metal on the door and the frame) (guaranteed 
     to make noises) and a metal to plastic (little or no noise). IF yours 
     has metal to metal get the dealer to change it. no idea of part 
     numbers. I have metal to plastic......
     
     regards
     chris browne 
     brit in boston 95 disco

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Dec 1995 21:30:44
From: IIIDmentia@gnn.com (WILLIAM ADAMS)
Subject: seat belts for Amy's 109

>> He doesn't have any in the back seat so we don't go out in the Rover a
>> lot 
>>because the belts aren't there.  He has the old belts but they look
> pretty 
>>bad.  I guess lap belts would be
Hey Amy I hope you aren't trying to tell us that you guys are back seat 
drivers! The number you need to call is 802-879-0032. Just tell them the
year 
and model and they'll do the rest. They quote $62.00 per belt assembly,but 
perhaps if you already have the hardware,they'll just sell you the belts.
 I have the same model Rover as you do (diesel) and love it to 
pieces(literally). 
P.S. Hope your husband doesn't read the Rover mail or your surprise is...

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 23:11:15 -0500
Subject: Re: SII vs. SIIA & Canadian Spec

We have the remains of a '59 88" with 1 piece doors which was originally sold
in West Virginia. Also 1 piece doors were used on some early II SWs sold in
the UK, so it looks like some but not all U.S. early Series II had 1 piece
doors.

I saw references in the OVLR FAQ to Canadian spec Series IIs. Was this a spec
ordered by Rover of North America for the Canadian market? The only
references to special configurations in the early II parts books are to
American Dollar Area.  I have a 1960 East Coast U.S. price list. Does anyone
have a Canadian price list?

Our '60 88", originally sold in Pennsylvania, has a heater with the long
rectangular air box under the dash, and the air inlet at the front, inside of
the right wing as described in the FAQ for late Series I Canadian spec. There
is clear evidence that a round Smith's heater was removed before this heater
was installed. Prehaps this heater was a predecessor to the Kodiak, and was
sourced in North America and installed locally? 

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: Racks and weights
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 20:26:12 -0800

>From: 	GElam30092@aol.com[SMTP:GElam30092@aol.com]
>You wrote: "	Unclear.  Most racks on Series Land Rovers just bolt to the 
rain
>channel.  That's how mine is attached (actually only clamped to the rain
>gutter--and it's a full length).  I've carried hundreds of pounds of stuff
>up there without any damage."
>I'm curious.  Every rack with the exceptions of the CT vehicles seems to 

use
>the rain gutters with no other bracing.  Every catalog that I have shows
>loaded racks (usually with gear bags, two jerry cans, a spare and 
shovel/high
>lift) on the rack attached to the gutters.
The D110 I saw today had it's rack mounted atop the external roll cage. That 
would seem to be a much sturdier mount than a drip rail. Likewise, I would 
think that the number of mounts attaching the rack to the rail would help 
distribute the weight better. Also, there may be some points along the drip 
rail that are stronger than others.
    _____
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |  _|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU

------------------------------

From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 23:34:19 -0500
Subject: 109 in NH

Just got the latest issue of a regional classified magazine.  There's a 1967
109 for sale in NH.  Does this belong to anyone on the list-if so, E-mail me
directly as I'm quite interested.  Also, the January 1996 issue of Four
Wheeler magazine has a long-term update on their Discovery-simply
one-and-a-half pages of praise!  There was a small problem with gearbox whine
which was fixed under warrenty.
       Can someone tell me what the largest tires I can put on my RR with the
OME springs?  I know this was discussed recently, but I admit I didn't pay
much attention.  Does anyone know of a good source(price-wise) for Superwinch
products.  I'd like to mount one of their Husky series winches to my RR.
Cheers, and thanks for the info!
John Cassidy, Bangor Maine USA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Dec 95 17:39:34 EST
From: carley@manly.civeng.unsw.EDU.AU (James Carley - WRL Staff)
Subject: Re: Galvanising and junior framemaster

Simon & LR readers,

this is sort of a personal reply but is of interest to Australian readers
and maybe others.  If you want to do your galvaniSing (I prefer the S spelling)
homework properly the best Australian ref is
Hot Dip Galvanizing, by the Galvanizers Association of Australia,
124 Exhibition Street, Melbourne Victoria 3000. ISBN 0 909951 20 9

Other advice I've remembered is when getting prices check whether the
price (per kg) is for before or after galvanising. I think it's a bit of
a scam that some quote for the weight after galvanising - which they 
estimate is approx 5% higher than pre galv.

I get a bit of galvanising done for work. Most galv's have a min charge of
approx $AUD 50. Last check of prices (Nov 1995) was (Sydney):

Industrial Galvanizers, 636 8244, want drawings, don't like quoting on weight,
but just so you know how cheap it can be, their Government Contract rate was
$AUD 0.39 per kg post gal in 1994.

Mascot Galvanising, 667 4328, $AUD 0.80 per kg pre gal
Galvanising Services, 709 3777, $AUD 0.65 per kg post gal (=add 5%)
Trico Metal Industries, 707 4299, $AUD 0.80 per kg pre gal. Trico were the only
ones to offer reasonable pick-up and delivery for non regular customers.

In my experience most of them tend to be pretty unfriendly and unhelpful
towards small timers, but I guess the product sells itself. Depending on the
corrosivity of the environment (we don't have salted roads in Oz) you can
expect a 25 year life for a galvanised chassis.

James Carley
'85 110 County 3.9D
(and Coastal Engineer)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Dec 1995 08:13:47 +0001
From: wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy Wassili)
Subject: Frozen conduit pipes

Hello folks,

It's freezing( -4 Celsius ) for a view days now here in the Netherlands.
When I wanted to wash wy front window this morning, and the rear window
also, trying to spray some washingfliud on the window, there was none. It
didn't even sputter!. Checked the reservoir under the hood, fluid wasn't
frozen. Could hear the pump also, trying to spray some fluid on the windows.
I suspect that the fluid in the conduit pipes is frozen :-(. Bought the
beast brand new at the end of september, 1995 that is, so I expected there
to be some anti-freeze in the reservoir. Now it seems there was *some* indeed.

Any good suggestions to defrost these pipes? ( No garage to heat the beast
up though :-( ).

Hand clapping and feet stamping regards,
LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR
                ____
      |   _____/|__||   Roy Wassili,<wassili@amc.uva.nl>
      |  /(-8|  \   |   Avalon Green '95 Discovery, VG-XH-66
  ____|_/[]__|__\___|#  scarved for live
 |] __=|     |  __  |#
[|_/  \|_____|_/  \_|]
  ( o )        ( o )

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 95 19:03:00 +0100
From: Daniel Polak <daniel@sys.nl>
Subject: 4WD on snow and ice

Winter is here. I didn't garage my Lightweight on purpose, I'm waiting for 
snow and ice to see how it will behave.
I expect traction to be better than on my regular car but braking to be 
worse (no ABS), also it promises to be quite cold and windy inside.

In European winter conditions how does driving a LandRover compare to 
driving a normal car like my Saab 900? What are your experiences driving 
LandRovers in winter?

Daniel

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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