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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Volkswagen Oilfilters
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 08:59:42 +0100 (MET)

Hi folks,
last week, Roy Wassili doubted if the Volkswagen Oilfilter really matches
the LR one. I got to the autoparts dealer again this Saturday and checked
carefully again. It is really similar to that I got from the British autoparts
shop. If anyone is intersted to use it, too. It's the oilfilter mounted on 
the newer VW diesels (nonturbo) like Golf/Rabbit and Passat.
Chears,
Franz
-- 
Franz Parzefall			 tbr1102@hpmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]           exmil. 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__.._
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Dec 1995 05:02:43 EST
From: "Steve Reddock" <steve_reddock@uk.xyratex.com>

Hi all, look a new address for me: Steve_Reddock@uk.xyratex.com !
  
Have fun, Steve Reddock
  
Steve Reddock                         Product Evaluation, 26/12
Xyratex                   Ext.(01705) 486363 x4450 Int.721-4450
REDDOCK at HVTVM                 Internet SREDDOCK@VNET.IBM.COM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 95 7:27:41 EST
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re:The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Hello All,

First, could someone please send me Dec 2 & Dec 5 digests somehow I only 
got the first few listings.

Second, I have a question about diff's and drive trains. When I let out 
the clutch on my D90 I hear a "clunk" sound. I also get a similar sound 
when I push in the clutch. This sound is coming from the rear diff, and 
possibly the front diff but its to hard to hear.

Anyone else out there have this same sound? Is this normal for LR's? I was 
told that LR drive trains are built with a lot of slop on purpose and that 
this is normal. A friend of mine says it sounds like ring and pinion 
engagement.  Backlash should be set correctly it was checked/reset when RN 
put in ARB air locker's for me.

Any opinions or advice would be greatly appreciated. If any of you other 
D90 owners have this sound and this is "normal" I would shure like to 
know!

Worried and wondering!

Barnett			EMAIL Barnett Childress@eng@emchop1
95 D90 still unnamed    

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Dec 95 08:03:11 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Re[2]: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Barnett Childress wrote:

          When I let out the clutch on my D90 I hear a
          "clunk" sound.

95 D90 still unnamed -That very well could be the problem!

  Sorry, I couldn't resist.
          Dave
          '72 SIII

------------------------------

From: Mark.Kraieski@mailport.delta-air.com
Date: 5 Dec 95 08:28:01 -0500
Subject: "Strange Noises", '96 Disco, Manual

When coasting to a stop with the clutch in, my '96 NAS Disco sometimes makes 
a rattling sound in the drivetrain. This seems to be most noticeable after 
driving for half an hour or more (everything warmed up) and appears to be 
coming from the front axle assembly. It is related to motion, not bumps or 
turns.  What is odd is that the first Disco I test drove made this sound as 
well. The salesman and I agreed something wasn't right and parked it at the 
service area and got another one. This one seemed fine and I now own it. 
After about 500 miles it started make the exact same sound. The sound only 
occurs when coasting to a stop and then only when speed pretty slow. Under 
power the sound goes away.

Anyone else out there experience this? I wouldn't expect it to happen with 
an automatic. Given it was present in 2 different Disco's, I suppose things 
are as they should be. There are no other odd symptoms and otherwise the 
vehicle performs fine. Given only 1 out of 20 NAS Disco's have manual 
transmissions, I'd love to hear from some of the rest of you if you have 
experienced this.

Mark

------------------------------

From: Ross Leidy <ross@secant.com>
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 95 09:00:43 0500
Subject: re:The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

On 12/05/95 at 07:27 AM, barnett childress penned:

<snip>
 >Second, I have a question about diff's and drive trains. When I let out 
 >the clutch on my D90 I hear a "clunk" sound. I also get a similar sound 
 >when I push in the clutch. This sound is coming from the rear diff, and 
 >possibly the front diff but its to hard to hear.

 >Anyone else out there have this same sound? Is this normal for LR's? I was 
 >told that LR drive trains are built with a lot of slop on purpose and that 
 >this is normal. A friend of mine says it sounds like ring and pinion 
 >engagement.  Backlash should be set correctly it was checked/reset when RN 
 >put in ARB air locker's for me.
<snip>

I found the same thing both with my D90 the demo D90 that I drove before
buying mine.  It is possible to avoid the "clunk", but you really have to
be gentle with the clutch; not an easy feat with the beastie.

______________________________________________________
Ross Leidy  (ross@secant.com)
Senior Software Engineer
Secant Technologies, Inc.
95 NAS D90 #3032

------------------------------

Date: 05 Dec 95 09:37:01 EST
From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com>
Subject: Strange Noises

    I have a 90RR that quite often makes a loud clunk also. It seems to occur
if the transmission is trying to change gears, just as I let off the
accelerator. When I first heard this, I thought that my transmission or drive
train was about to go. That was 60,000 miles ago. Everyone I have talked to
says that this is normal, but it still makes me uncomfortable. I'm sure that
part of the reason the drivetrain is so overbuilt is to help absorb some of
this slop, that is designed in.

    I haven't noticed this problem in the SerIII. If it is doing it, I can't
hear it over the whining overdrive, noisy gearbox, rattling body panels, tire
noise, wind noise.....

 Rob

     -------------------
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|      (404) 875-4537
   |     |   ###   |     |
   |     | ####### |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |_____|_#######_|_____|      1990 RangeRover
  [_______________________]
     |\/|           |\/|

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 05-Dec-1995

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 07:15:40 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: 6 Year Corrosion Warranty

I have a friend who bought a used R-Rover, had it inspected, and the 
whole vehicle repaired. New tailgate, upper and lower, rocker panels,
floor boards, almost everything except the hood.... All at no cost.

Russ burns

At 08:19 AM 12/4/95 -0500, RICHARD COLEMAN wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>         Greetings,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 42 lines)]
>                                    Rick
>                                    90 RR(the money pit)
Russ Burns
91 R-Rover
94 D-90

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Dec 1995 16:26:07 +0001
From: wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy Wassili)
Subject: Re: "Strange Noises", '96 Disco, Manual

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>experienced this.
>Mark
Mark,

I'm driving a 5speed manual gearboxed '95 Discovery and do hear these
rattling noise sometimes. Especially when driving off-road and the wheels
start digging. If I hit the clutch pedal fast I can hear these rattling
noises. IMO this happens when the wheels suddenly stop spinning( due to
hitting the clutch pedal and the high resistance of the mud/sand there still
is some momentum in the drive train. I believe that this is very Roverish
and therefore not abnormal. Never heard these noises on-road though! ( Have
heard this noise on a lot of other LR's too !:-) )

LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR
                ____
      |   _____/|__||   Roy Wassili,<wassili@amc.uva.nl>
      |  /(-8|  \   |   Avalon Green '95 Discovery, VG-XH-66
  ____|_/[]__|__\___|#  scarved for live
 |] __=|     |  __  |#
[|_/  \|_____|_/  \_|]
  ( o )        ( o )

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 10:33:03 -0500
Subject: Racks and misc.

You wrote: "Once again, the cage is phosphated and black polyester coated.
It is necessary to specify if a Camel Trophy roof rack is to
be used as this bolts to the cage through the vehicle roof."

How many polyesters did they kill to obtain the coating?

But seriously... did Safety Devices mention any pricing?  I keep threatening
to request a  catalog but as a member of the Lazy Buggers set, I never seem
to get around to it!

Any futher info is appreciated...
Gerry "Rack em up" Elam

------------------------------

Date: 05 Dec 1995 10:39:10 GMT
From: "Anthony Verriello" <verriello_anthony@jpmorgan.com>
Subject: D90 Engine light

Has any NAS D90 owner out there experienced problems with their Engine light 
illuminating.   Mine is on its second
occurrence in 3000 Miles...last time it was a malfunction in the 
exhaust/emission systems.  I dont mind glitches
but I have to admit this one annoys me since it deprives me of the use of my 
beast until I can get it in for servicing.
The dealership claims I can drive it for short periods like this.......

Also I heard someone mention a diagnostic display on D90's????????

BTW,   NAS D90 SW is a thing of beauty,  Im trying to convince myself two D90s 
actually makes sense!
verriello_anthony@jpmorgan.com
        
 +-+--+-@
 |_|_/|__\__ 
 | _  |' |_ |} (Dagwood...named for his voracious appetite,
 =(_)=+==(_)'             petrol not sandwiches)

NAS '94 black D90 
(happiness is pulling a jeep out of a hole)

Pre-requisite anal disclaimer to follow:::
The views and opinions expressed here are solely the views of myself and do not
imply any opinion or view of my employer.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 07:47:33 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: re:The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

On Tue, 5 Dec 1995, barnett childress wrote:
>(snip) clutch on my D90 I hear a "clunk" sound. I also get a similar sound 
> when I push in the clutch. This sound is coming from the rear diff.
> Anyone else out there have this same sound? Is this normal for LR's? I was 
> told that D90 owners have this sound and this is "normal." 

Dear Barnett:
The sound is common and, I believe, normal. I asked about it soon after I 
got my '94 and was told that it was usual by Seattle Land Rover. Also, 
during the "Wheels '95" gathering hosted by Seattle Land Rover last 
summer (great trail riding and feast!), I KNEW when I would need to 
clutch by the "clunk" of D-90s ahead of me, and could hear those behind 
me as they passed the same spot later.

Best wishes,
David

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 95 16:03:04 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: RR power steering boxes

All, 

I need to replace the power steering box on my 1988 RR. The thing used to 
wonder, but now it seems to be getting worse, even to the point where the 
wife has mentioned it !

Has anyone replaced their PSB, how long did it take, I just read an old LRO 
article where the guy said it took a few hours. That would seem about right, 
and the fact that the thing has been leaking power steering fluid for the 
past year, the bolt should be easy to remove !

Would you guys reccomend a rebuilt or exchange or new. I got a few quotes 
from the UK for rebuilt factory units that work out about $300, new are $600 
!

Mark

------------------------------

From: crash@merl.com
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 10:31:21 -0500
Subject: Synthetic in a landie

my Disco (41,000 miles and counting) has been on Mobil-1 and Castrol 
Syntec since the 1000-mile change.

It had the head off once, for a warranty bit... the mechanic was amazed
at how clean and new everything looked.  "It just sparkled"...

Synthetics don't turn to tar on a cold day.  The engine starts much
easier and oil pressure comes up much faster.

Synthetics also stick to the metal better, and provide better lubrication.

Synthetics handle high temperatures (i.e. bottom of the piston) much
better than conventional oils.

I'd be a little wary about putting synthetics into an old vehicle;
synthetics, being better lubricators, tend to do several things:

	1) they don't swell seals as much- which means an oil seal
	that _was_ marginal can quickly become an oil leak... ditto
	leaky gaskets.  Make sure all the bolts are tight... 

	2) They retain pourability much better- so even a pinhole
	leak (insignificant with regular oil) will be a major leak
	with synthetic.

	3) They are _much_ better detergents than regular dino-blood.
	An engine with lots of deposits will shed a lot of crap into
	the new synthetic oil in the first thousand miles or so.  
	You *may* end up with a clogged filter, clogged intake
	screen, or worse (clogged oil pump and broken oil pump shaft).

This isn't to say you can't switch over at 80,000 miles- I did switch
a 86 Subaru Turbo 4WD with 70,000 miles from Castrol GTX (changed every 4000,
I bought the car new) to Mobil-1 synthetic.  The mobil-1 freed a sticking
tappet and made the car start much better on cold winter days (because
of the much-improved pour point).  I made sure all the gasket bolts
were snugged down before I switched over, and didn't have any major
leakage problems.

Just be careful- and you *may* want to make your first oil+filter
change with synthetic about a thousand miles long, then two thousand,
then five thousand (which is what I run my Mobil-1 for).  This is
to avoid the crapshedding factor I mentioned above.  That subaru
engine hadn't been neglected or allowed to foul; I don't think the
same is true of your Rangie.

Oh- among synthetics, there is a certain amount of "tailoring" that's
done.  Redline and most of the motorcycle synthetics are tailored for
high-temperature racing use.  Mobil-1 is tailored toward extreme
cold weather/transcontinental truck use (i.e. vehicles expected to
run for hundreds of thousands of miles).  Castrol Syntec is somewhere 
in the middle, probably the equivalent of "consumer white bread".  
AMSoil seems to be similar to Redline but not quite as extremely 
aimed at the racing community.

[ If you really want the numbers, someone had recently posted the
 actual pour-point and extreme-pressure ratings for about a hundred
 different oils (including the synthetics).  The above is from memory. ]

Right now I'm basically running synthetic lube everywhere except the 
grease in the U-joints (and I'll switch that over when I do my
next chassis lube).  Engine, transmission, transfer case, both diffs,
all are the appropriate Mobil-1 lube (or Syntec- the dealer didn't have
Mobil-1 in stock, but he did have Castrol Syntec so that's what's in
the engine now.  It was part of the service and I let it go at that).
	
	-Bill Yerazunis

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 11:26:56 -0500
From: michelbe@praline.net (Michel)
Subject: Re: Galvanising and junior framemaster

Hello again, I have been out of the net for about a year now but I'm back,
with Rudolph.(My 109 PU). 

David Bobeck wrote:

 Also noticed one front horn
>has been hit and is tweaked a little towards the inside of the frame.
>THought about using my HI-lift to try to bend it back, any ideas? Should I
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>Dave Bobeck
>72 SIII "Green Car"
When I had the bodywork redone last year on Rudolph, we noticed at one point
that the frame was crooked. Both front horns sort of tilted to the side.
According to the shape of the wing, it looked like it had a big hit on the
side. The rover drove very straight and I didn't notice anything strange in
the handling (I do remember the gallons of sweat I lost when installing the
new front springs,though). Anyway, we had to fix it. With chains, Hi-Lift,
two big trees, a 10 pound sledgehammer and a 4 ft long 4X4 solid oak piece
of wood, it was possible to get the frame as straight as new. If you want to
do this kind of work, make sure that all your chains and attachment points
are solid. The strengths and pressures are enormous in this situation. Try
to "see" in advance how the frame or horn will react to the Hi-Lift and
do'nt be afraid to use the sledgehammer. It's another way to see if your
frame is solid or not!!

David also asks:

Also planning to galvanise, so any tips on that are welcome and
>appreciated. Thanks for listening

I have never galvanised a frame before, but I did have all the bits and
pieces of Rudolph regalvanised last year.The place I had it done told me
that they could do a frame without any problems. This, in short, is what you
need to know:

        1) Find a galvanising shop that has big enough "baths" for your frame
        2) Check for the price. Here, in Quebec, it's about 0.75$ per pound
           Comes up to about 200-250$ for a frame.
        3) Sandblast the frame completely. There shouldn't be any paint left
anywhere on the frame. They won't galvanise a piece of metal that has
           1 sq.inch of paint on it. It pollutes their acid and zinc baths.
        4) leave the outer suspension bushings inside the frame. After the 
           zinc-coating, all you have to do is to remove them (I use a rat-tail 
           electric saw and metal chisels)
        5) Make holes in the frame so that the zinc can come out easily
        6) Put bolts through the holes that you do not want blocked-out
        7) Remember that the zinc will give an "extra-coat" to the frame. Try to
           avoid having to grind or sand down in some areas (steering relay)
        8) While being there, have a few bits and parts galvanised. You can 
           basically have anything in steel galvanised. Don't have the door 
           hinges galvanised, though, it makes a terrible job. For the different
           hinges and tailgate apparitus, they seize with the zinc. You have to 
           heat them with a propane torch and work'em out slowly.
        9) Rust is not important. The acid bath will dissolve it all. Remember:
           no paint.

That's about it for the galvanising tips, from what I know, check with your
galvanising shop. To all who read this until the end, I apologize for the
long post. I hope that this will be helpfull.

Michel Bertrand

1963 109 IIA (Rudolph)
1968 109 IIA SW-NADA (in the works)
1973 88 III 21st century project

Sherbrooke, Quebec, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 09:24:14 -0700
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: Racks and misc.

At 10:33 AM 12/5/95 -0500, GElam30092@aol.com wrote:
>You wrote: "Once again, the cage is phosphated and black polyester coated.
>It is necessary to specify if a Camel Trophy roof rack is to
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
>Any futher info is appreciated...
>Gerry "Rack em up" Elam

PRICES IN POUNDS:

I think the cage is on the order of $669,  Optional diagonal, $35,
Load guard, $85, Roof Rack mounts $24.  Can't find the listing for the
actual roof rack.  D110 Long Roof rack is listed for $427.48.

Rovers North carries the Safety Devices stuff.  May want to give them
a call for US prices.  I'll bring the catalog and price sheets to the
next couple events.  I'm going to try and make Berkley  but have a
party I have  to attend later that evening so will have to see how my
day goes.  As far as Hollister on Sat. or Sun.  Really just waiting
on the weather and how I feel when I get up in the morning.  I got my
catalog by calling Safety Devices direct at

011 44 1353 624624.

If you are in the Los Gatos neighbor hood and just want to check it
out feel free to stop by.  (408) 354-2931.

-Rick

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 08:45:57 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: D90 Engine light

My light come on when I hit a bump....
I have the dealer trying to fis this as the warranty is fading fast.
With normal check engine malfunctions the code is on an LED display
next to the computer. The code are listed in the service manual.
I uses the check engine light as a troubleshooting tool, not "severe damage"
indicator. It will detect misfire, backfire, and other anomilies.

Russ Burns

At 10:39 AM 12/5/95 GMT, Anthony Verriello wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Has any NAS D90 owner out there experienced problems with their Engine light 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 30 lines)]
>Pre-requisite anal disclaimer to follow:::
>The views and opinions expressed here are solely the views of myself and do not
>imply any opinion or view of my employer.
Russ Burns
91 R-Rover
94 D-90

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 09:49:59 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: RR power steering boxes

On Tue, 5 Dec 1995, Mark Talbot wrote:

> I need to replace the power steering box on my 1988 RR. The thing used to 
...
> Would you guys reccomend a rebuilt or exchange or new. I got a few quotes 
> from the UK for rebuilt factory units that work out about $300, new are $600 

Mark -- where do you get the new ones for $600?? In the US they seem 
closer to $1000!

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Dec 1995 10:06:18 -0800
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: Can Hi-Lift Be Used On Most Trucks?

The current hi-lift discussion has me wondering if a hi-lift can be used on a Range Rover or Disco or other truck without the easilt accessed frame and solid steel bumper of a Land Rover (or J**p)?  I also have a Ford F250 and can't see anywhere one could use a hi-lift without roaching up something pretty good.  I also can't see where one could place the lifting jaw of a hi-lift on a RR or Disco without destroying a sill or sheet metal bumper.

Have folks actually made much use of hi-lifts on RRs or Discos?  Where do you place it? (Assuming you haven't added a bull bar or receiver.)

------------------------------

Date: 05 Dec 95 13:18:56 EST
From: "BENJAMIN G. NEWMAN" <71773.3457@compuserve.com>
Subject: Oil Change

I am about to take my 1995 RR 4.0 SE in for its 7500 mile service.What is the
wisdom of the Net regarding changing to Mobil 1 15-50wt oil. Is it too soon;
will it starting leaking; is this the proper weight for Florida????
Thanks,
Benjamin G. Newman
Ser 11A;66 pick up:66 88" 3 dr;109 NADA wagon;95 RR

------------------------------

From: Marcus Haas <marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk>
Subject: Recent postings about models...
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 18:33:42 +0000 (GMT)

...could someone post the address of Triple C?  What kind of business
are they specifically?

Marcus.

------------------------------

From: Grahame.Harden@BRI.NRC.CA
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 13:36:52 -0500
Subject: Oil everywhere but in the sump!

Dear Kevan,

Yep, sounds like bores/rings (80,000 miles if not abused) or
valve guides/seals (whenever they feel like it).

PLEASE do not obstruct the breather with tape!!!! backpressure 
will blow the main bearing seals, if nothing else... you'll
have lots more oil going over the road.

Why not simply construct a breather tube that goes somewhere
(even to a bottle!) from the rocker cover.

Did YOURS pass the Euro-regs for emmission??

Grahams

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Dec 1995 10:37:22 -0800
From: Christopher Boese <cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us>
Subject: drivetrain clunking

Barnett Childress wrote:

> Second, I have a question about diff's and drive trains. When I let out
> the clutch on my D90 I hear a "clunk" sound. I also get a similar sound
> when I push in the clutch. This sound is coming from the rear diff, and
> possibly the front diff but its to hard to hear.

I hear the same thing from my (automatic) '95 Discovery's drivetrain. 
This occurs inevitably at low speeds when I've just begun to accelerate, 
i.e., when power comes on, or when I lift off on the throttle. I also 
assume it's normal drivetrain slop -- there are a lot of pieces whirling 
around underneath and they can't all fit together too tightly.

BTW, my Discovery's gone in three times now for some loud creaking noise 
coming from the hinge corner of the rear door. Symes LR in Pasadena have 
tightened body mounts, removed the panel in the rear door, tightened the 
exhaust heat shields, etc. But there's still the metal-on-metal grinding 
or creaking whenever the body flexes. The techs at the dealer say they've 
never heard it. I suppose I need to take them for a ride some time before 
the rear door falls off. Anyone know of any adjustments to the hinges, 
seals, or latches I could do? Thanks for helping me not go mad.

Off-road, of course, I have so much fun I forget all about it.

-- 

Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Discovery racks 
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 1995 10:41:27 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <199512050449.UAA12894@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us>you wrote:
> I've got the "expedition" rack, which is exactly like the one in the "La Ruta
> Maya" video tape LRNA was (is?) mailing out to new owners.  It mounts on the 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> carried.  We're probably right to assume that they can do this because the 
> racks are mounted to the roll cages.  

	Unclear.  Most racks on Series Land Rovers just bolt to the rain
channel.  That's how mine is attached (actually only clamped to the rain
gutter--and it's a full length).  I've carried hundreds of pounds of stuff
up there without any damage.

> One thing to consider too is that 
> putting a lot of weight on the roof may alter the handling of the vehicle 
> enough to be dangerous.

	Yes it does and you have to be careful.  No sharp turns.  I found that
with good shocks and new springs, a fully loaded Series 88" with, oh, about 300
lbs in the roof rack develops an uncontrolable side to side roll at about 53mph.
The only way to regain control is to slow down below that speed, and the roll
hits suddenly with positive feedback.   
	You will also have to remember when off roading that on side hills,
you will tend to roll over at a much smaller angle than a Rover without such
loading.
	In the Camel Trophy, they are rarely trying to move at highway speeds
so the risk is acknowledged.  Besides, on the CT, you don't have much choice
on how much you bring.  A lot of the equipment load is mandatory.  If I 
recall correctly, each person is allowed 60lbs for food, clothing and personal
gear for the 2 week trip.  (Let's see, usiung my backpacking rule of 
thumb, 2lb per day for food is 28 lbs,  How much clothing, toiletries, etc
can I cram in 32 lbs?...)

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Help selecting a CB radio. 
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 1995 10:46:50 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

Dave Brown asked:

> Which antenna should I get? Any mounting locations or suggestions?

	Personally I'd suggest not getting a centerload antenna that has a
plastic piece conneting two metal ones.  (Standard Radio Shack 3/8 wave)
I've had at least 3 break on me off road.  Branches love to snap them off
at the plastic part.  So I'd recommend using any of the one piece antennas. 
I've had good luch with the the Firestick types.  (Mine is a 5', mounted
to the rear of the roofrack, with a spring on the base of the antenna)

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: clutch & clunk (was: re:The Land Rover Own...)
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 15:07:23 +0100 (MET)

Hello All,
Barnett Childress writes:

> Second, I have a question about diff's and drive trains. When I let out 
> the clutch on my D90 I hear a "clunk" sound. I also get a similar sound 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> engagement.  Backlash should be set correctly it was checked/reset when RN 
> put in ARB air locker's for me.

I have the sound just when stepping off the clutch pedal. Sounds like a bit of
play in the diffs. It's not there if I get of the pedal gently, which supports
the theory.
I don't know if the sound is ok, but at least it's common.
-- 
Franz Parzefall			 tbr1102@hpmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]           exmil. 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__.._
                                  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 10:54:46 -0900
From: abalser@merlin.salrm.alaska.edu (Andrew Balser)
Subject: oil opinion and cooling question

Hello all,

	I think the benefits of synthetics depend in part on the 
circumstances.  In extreme temperatures (hot or cold), I think it can 
make quite a difference.  Apparently the chemical bonds in a molecule 
of synthetic oil help it maintain its viscosity over a far broader temperature
range.  Case in point; yesterday I had to add a quart to my SerIII.  I had
a quart of synthetic 15w-50, and a quart of regular 10w-30.  Because I run
synthetics, I wanted to stick with them, so in spite of the 15w-50 rating,
and the fact that it is deep winter here, I went ahead with it.  It was -52F
at my cabin near Bearflanks (brrrr!!) when I poured it, and although it 
poured something like honey, it did come out of the bottle o.k.  In 
contrast, the 10w-30 nonsynthetic was like rock candy in the bottle.  

	Other testaments for synthetics come second hand.  I have heard stories 
from folks who rebuild engines telling me that the few occasions they have 
looked at engines that have run on synthetics their whole life, they appear 
almost as pristine as they were at day one.  Also, synthetics supposedly 
cling to engine parts better, making starts less traumatic - another cold
weather advantage.  

	In spite of the expense, I also use synthetic gear oil. The difference
in getting all that gear oil in the Salisbury diff and transfer case moving
between regular and synthetic is astounding.  Another way to look at the 
cost difference is to consider that you need fewer oil changes with synthetic.
Assuming you aren't leaking or burning too much, in which case you are always 
adding oil, the cost of synthetic, in the long term, is not much more than
regular oil.  Just be sure to keep up with changing the filter.

	On a different note; I have been toying with the idea of by-passing
my radiator in the winter months, since it is so bloody cold here.  My 
engine has enough trouble getting up to operating temp, why not help it out
a bit?  I figure the heater core will give it cooling enough.  Anyway, can 
anybody think of a reason why this might be a poor idea. Don't worry I 
wouldn't forget to put it back online before spring (if spring ever comes).  

Later,
Andrew Balser

           _______________
          [___I___I___I___]
           H_____________H
	  I______|_|______I
	  |       |       |
	O I    ___|___    I O
         \----{///////}----/
         [----{///////}----]
        _____/( )###( )\_____
       | o   | ####### |   o |
       |     | ####### |     |
       _______L-------J_______
      [_______________________]
        |//|---\_/-------|\\|
        |//|             |\\|
         --               --

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 15:11:25 -0500
Subject: Series Sighting

Received the Fall/Winter magazine from Acura with their new Acura SLX on the
cover.  (Is the SLX an Isuzu derivative?)  

As I was scanning the magazine (the last step before tossing it), I can
across a picture of a leopard on the hood on a Series Land Rover.  All that
shows of the Land Rover is the hood and the area that composes the drivers
seat (RHD!) along with a bit of the roof.  There are several people on the
roof lying down taking pictures of the leopard.  (Can you say "Nice kitty
cat!)  The cat doesn't look amused!

Actually the picture was contained in a advertisement that isn't supposed to
look like an ad for a travel group offering exciting vacations.
 Nevertheless, it was nice of Acura to include a Land Rover in the magazine!

Gerry "That's too close to a damm cat for me" Elam

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 12:32:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Kurt Jensen <kajensen@puc.edu>
Subject: Re: roof racks-handling 

On an interesting side note about roof racks and handling....
When I bought my 1964 109 2 door Safari this summer, I took the roof off 
immediately.  Handling was great! It felt like I could go at almost any 
angle on a side slope.  It never felt ready to roll, even when a brake 
failure caused me to rocket down a very steep hill in reverse at high 
speed, with a nice spin out at the bottom to avoid the Cope mobile. I 
know I probably would have rolled multiple times if I had had a roof on, 
let alone a loaded rack.
	I guess it's a trade off.  I was compelled by cold and rain to return 
my roof to my vehicle (and by passengers unused to such 
accomodations....on 6 hour road trips...at night...in the rain.) 
However, it was fantastic in nice weather, and handling was 
unbelievable.  I have no idea why more LRO's don't do it seasonaly...Is 
it the "lazzy bugger" thing? Do you not enjoy dirt in every pore on 
off-road convoys?
	Anywway, now that the roof is back on, and the roof rack, it feels 
much more tippsy, and I know those side slope spectacles would now leave 
my lying on my side like Eric Cope found himself at Hollister in his 109.
	Next summer, you guys should try the topless thing...the ultimate 
tanning machine!  I think that easy seasonal option is one of the great 
things about the series vehicles!  Yet at the British Car Meet in Palo 
Alto this year, I think DanoRosa and myself were the only topless ones! 
We didn't have to drive home with a foot holding the driver door open to 
cool off after "Paradise Lost" either.  
	Anyone out there have opinions on why more of us don't go topless when 
the weather calls for it? Embarrassment? (someone might see your duct 
tape covered seats...modesty?)
Curious Kurt
 On Tue, 5 Dec 1995, Benjamin Allan Smith 
wrote:

> > One thing to consider too is that 
> > putting a lot of weight on the roof may alter the handling of the vehicle 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
> 	You will also have to remember when off roading that on side hills,
> you will tend to roll over at a much smaller angle than a Rover without such
> loading.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Dec 1995 12:49:25 -0800
From: Christopher Boese <cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Series Sighting (Acura SLX)

Gerry Elam asks:

> Received the Fall/Winter magazine from Acura with their new Acura SLX on the
> cover.  (Is the SLX an Isuzu derivative?)

Yes. According to Car and Driver (at 
http://www.caranddriver.com/member/curIssue/nov_95/changes.html) the SLX is just a rebadged Honda 
Passport, which in turn is a rebadged Isuzu Rodeo.

-- 

Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office
'95 Beluga Black Discovery

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Dec 1995 12:52:55 -0800
From: Christopher Boese <cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us>
Subject: Acura SLX -- correction

Just now, I stupidly wrote:

Yes. According to Car and Driver (at
http://www.caranddriver.com/member/curIssue/nov_95/changes.html) the SLX 
is just a rebadged Honda
Passport, which in turn is a rebadged Isuzu Rodeo.

Oops, I meant a rebadged Isuzu Trooper. The Passport will only be sold by 
Honda.

-- 

Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office

------------------------------

Date: 05 Dec 95 15:51:54 EST
From: Mark Ritter <70472.1130@compuserve.com>
Subject: Camel Sized Disappoinment

Well Murphy's law visited me last Thursday. I was training for the upcoming US
Camel Trophy trials by pacticing my rope climb when I felt something give in my
upper right chest. I decided to give it a rest for a few days but by Sunday
afternoon while on an orienteering run the pain was getting severe everytime I
took a deep breath. A visit to my friendly Dr./ Chiropractor revealed two ribs
out of place and a badly pulled or torn Rhombus muscle. This probobly is left
over from a car wreck in '87. Anyway the end result is that have had to withdraw
from the trials or risk further damage to my shoulder/chest. 
When I spoke to Tom Collins this morning he was very sympathetic and level
headed in his advice. He rightly concluded that even a spot on the team was not
worth possible physical damage considering my carreer as a pilot. Somebody has
to pay for all the new toys I want on my Disco.
Anyway thanks to all those folks who wrote me with their support ( there were
quite a few).
As I had optimistically figured that I would need quite a bit of time off this
spring I'm going to put it to use and attend one of Lakeland Safari's off-road
trips to one of 3 locations:
			
			      1.Pyrenees Mountains
			      2.French Alps
			      3.Morrocco

Not having been to any of these locations before could anybody give me some
opinions on which might have the best combination of off-roading, scenery,
adventure? Also anybody else interested in attending?

						Mark (It's only a flesh wound)
Ritter
								

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 95 20:57:52 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: RRR WWW

Anyone got the RRR WWW page address ?

Mark

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 16:03:03 -0500
Subject: 1990 RR  

All;      Saw a recent ad for a 1990 RR 79000 miles asking price 14,900.
anything to watch out for in particular on this year ??  Don't know the book
value but price seems a little on the low side for that year, at least here
in NY... any comments welcomed  thanks

                                                                        Steve
          72 slll   88

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 95 21:10:45 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: LAND ROVER SIGHTING

All, 

There is a new video camera on the market, thinks it's Canon that the focus 
is controlled by your eye, anyway, they have a Land Rover in several of the 
background shots. 

also, this may be old, but the DSS dish has a Land Rover going over a cliff, 
the dog watching the TV seems sad !

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 16:36:29 -0500
From: Martin_Eglitis@nih.gov (Martin Eglitis)
Subject: Re: Acura SLX -- correction

According to my brother-in-law, who works for Honda/Acura, the SLX is a
fully tricked out Trooper with full leather, fancy stereo, and (not like
the regular Trooper) shift-on-the-fly 4WD (but still no AWD).

BTW, Honda really wanted to expand its stake in Rover so they could get the
rights to LR, and were quite peeved that BMW snatched Rover away from them.
But for the purchase by BMW, the new Acura SLX would have been a re-badged
Discovery.

Martin Eglitis
'94 Discovery

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 13:39:52 -0800
From: John_White@logistics.nonstop.com
Subject: I almost fainted.

I saw a conniston green Discovery with an expedition roof rack, rhino bar 
with fog and driving lights, and five of the Camel Trophy-style steel 
wheels also in conniston green.  It was so beautiful, I almost fainted.  
Other distinguishing marks: it had Colorado license plates, and did a 
u-turn at the corner of Union and Columbus here in San Francisco during the 
lunch hour today.  Was it someone on one of the LRO lists?

Cheers!
John

John C. White, III                                   voice: +1 (415) 283-1891
Database Architect                                    facs: +1 (415) 984-4599
NON-STOP Logistics Corporation                        
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

From: a-robw@microsoft.com
Subject: RE: Incredable Disco
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 14:12:10 -0800

----------
From: 	Insoo@ceramatec.com[SMTP:Insoo@ceramatec.com]
Sent: 	Friday, December 01, 1995 2:17 PM
Subject: 	Incredable Disco

>I slowly and cautiously maneuvered the Disco and I knew it, we were over
>those huge slickrocks without a glitch or hang ups like Jeepers had.  I
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>minutes or so.  It was purely incomparable the way Disco maneuvered its way
>through those huge rocks with so much ease and grace.
That was my initial impression, the first time I drove the Disco after 
trading in a Wrangler. In one sense it took all the "adventure" out of going 
to the mountains. On the other hand, I don't mind going up with the kids 
(1.5, 7, 9, & 11 yrs old) as much since I know we'll invariably be driving 
out. In the Jeep, I wasn't quite so confident.

>Later, back at the motel, I found out that this trail was actually for "top
>rated vehicle only", which meant " non-stock vehicle allowed".  This just
>again proves Disco's amazing capability and solidity at its most
>challenging course.  
Another reason for me trading in the Jeep. I thought it was cool to be able 
to drive a vehicle off the lot with the capabilities necessary for the 
"tough" trails where any other stock truck would need some degree of 
"beefing" up. Of course, when my wife asks why I keep buying stuff for it, 
if it's so trail-ready, I have to hem and haw a bit :-)
    _____
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |  _|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 17:57:56 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: External sun visors

Stopped by the metal shop this morning and got the estimates for the 
external sun visors.  The guy still had the program on disk, and I've 
ordered eight to be made up.  These are 14 guage aluminum sheet with .090" 
galvanized steel brackets, shipped unpainted and CKD.  Shipping costs have 
yet to be determined, but the visors will be sold for $85, or $75 to ROAV 
members.  With the holidays coming up, I don't expect these will be ready 
until early January.

If you are wondering, these are superior to the Rover originals.  The metal 
is heavier guage, and the holes have been purposefully elongated to allow 
for a perfect fit, even if your windscreen is a bit "tweaked".  Sturdy 
enough to withstand the footfalls of the neighborhood urchins who view a 
Rover with a roofrack as a piece of playground equipment.  Reservations to 
the below address, and I'll advise as to UPS costs.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Dec 95 14:43:03 PST
From: "BREAKFIELD ERNEST" <breakfield.ernest@smtpgateway.centigram.com>
Subject: Re: Help selecting a CB radio.

     David,
        i'd suggest getting the best rig you can physically fit into the 
     vehicle(s) that has Single Side Band (SSB) operation; they are 
     generally built with better transmitter sections than their 'strictly 
     AM' cousins as the rules allow 12 Watts on transmit using SSB (vs. 4 
     Watts on AM). the receiver sections are usually equally superior.
        as you'll probably learn, SSB works better @ 11 Meters (CB 
     frequencies) in mountainous or hilly areas, valleys, canyons; exactly 
     the sort of places we are likely to go to play! even if your friends 
     don't have SSB rigs, you can still use yours on AM, with generally 
     noticeable improvement (over AM-only rigs) in the signal reception, 
     unwanted (adjacent) signal rejection, and audio quality 
     characteristics.
     
        with regard to the advice given by others here concerning 
     antennae's; i'd go along strongly with the recommendation that you 
     give serious consideration to impact vulnerability/survivability when 
     making your selection! although the relatively impervious nature of 
     the 102" Stainless Steel whip is desirable and its length would help 
     your range in & out of those deep, dark gorges we traverse, not many 
     of your fellow wheelers/spotters will appreciate having that thing 
     flying around in the rougher sections! (and no matter how you try to 
     attach it, some will say, it WILL come loose somewhere 
     off-roading...). a shorter antennae would be nice in this regard, but 
     as soon as you start lowering the tip of the antennae towards the 
     ground, your range decreases, so you need to settle on a compromise 
     that suits you. garage clearance, aesthetics, and other things will 
     all figure into the picture, as will which vehicle your going to use 
     it on. ever try to get that nice magnet-mount to stick to an aluminum 
     roof?  ;-)
        you might also consider that a 5/8 wave(length) ant will need a 
     good ground plane to function properly, maybe even at all, (read: 
     steel roof or BIG flat roof rack!) whereas a 1/4 wave will not. (i 
     think a 1/2 wave works like the 1/4 in this regard, but i don't 
     remember for sure; will somebody on the list please fill in here? 
     thanks...)
     
        power mikes; don't do it! not only are most of them ineffective, 
     unnecessary, and sometimes even detrimental. on the better(/SSB) rigs, 
     you shouldn't need one if the radio is properly tuned. you also add in 
     the distinct possibility that the battery in the mic could (read: 
     will,) fail, rendering an otherwise perfectly good radio inoperative. 
     (nice feature, eh? NOW how much would you pay?!) so, you say, carry an 
     extra battery, right? yeah sure, IF you can find one; many of the 
     power mics don't use readily available standard batteries, and it'll 
     probably be dead too by the time you pull it out of your glove box... 
     carry an extra mic? O.K., if you want to, (and some people do, since 
     mic/cord failures aren't entirely unknown,) but i'll stick to the 
     stock mic in a good radio.
     
        which brings me to the final point; no mater what rig you get, get 
     a good radio 'doctor' if you can find one in your area. "golden 
     screwdriver" status not necessary; what you need is what they'll 
     probably call "peaking and tweaking". it seems every assembly line is 
     a little different, and the performance characteristics of the final 
     sum of any collection of components will vary from unit to unit, but 
     almost every new radio i've seen on a scope was not operating to it's 
     full potential, and sometimes it wasn't even close! getting it tuned 
     can sometimes yield dramatic results, depending on how far out it is 
     to start with. no, this shouldn't be necessary, but life in 
     manufacturing being what it is in these cost-of-assembly oriented 
     times, it's a reality.
     
        BTW, 12 Watts on 11 Meter SSB will probably work farther for you in 
     the mountains and canyons than any amount of power on 2 Meter FM 
     simplex; the VHF characteristics of 2M won't likely allow you more 
     than line-of-sight contact... of course if you're using the Amateur 
     advantage of repeaters, that's cheating, and all bets with regards to 
     range are off!
     
        i hope some of this helps, and welcome you (and others) to contact 
     me directly (or otherwise) if you have any questions.
     
                                                   73, and happy trails,
                                                                     e
                                                                 N6ZES
> Subject: Help selecting a CB radio.
> Author:  DEBROWN@SRP.GOV at smtpgateway

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 37 lines)]
> |__|__|__\___     /__/__|__\___        we make a life by what we give. 
> | _|  |   |_ |}   \_/-\_|__/-\_|}

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 18:32:23 -0500
From: benedick@emh1.pa.net (KRIS/DARWYN BENEDICT)
Subject: Triple C address

Here is the address for Triple C Motor
1908 Orange Street
York,  PA  17404
717-854-4081
Fax: 717-854-6706
They sell a variety of accessories for MG, Lotus, Jag, Triumph, etc. and
Land Rover.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Dec 1995 16:17:37 -0800
From: Christopher Boese <cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us>
Subject: Re: 1990 RR 

ASFCO@aol.com (couldn't find his real name) wrote:

> All;      Saw a recent ad for a 1990 RR 79000 miles asking price 14,900.
> anything to watch out for in particular on this year ??  Don't know the book
> value but price seems a little on the low side for that year, at least here
> in NY... any comments welcomed  thanks

According to Edmund's, the current wholesale for a 1990 RR is $16800. Retail is $20125. For a 
County, you're supposed to add about $600. Mileage will bring that down some -- normal mileage is 
supposed to be 10000 per year.

This came from 
gopher://www.dc.enews.com:70/00/showroom/edmunds/usedmake/landrove/1990/rangerov%09+Text/plain

-- 

Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office
'95 beluga black and tan with brush scratches Discovery

------------------------------

Subject: Re: RRR WWW 
Date: Tue, 05 Dec 1995 16:56:24 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

Mark Talbot asked:

> Anyone got the RRR WWW page address ?

http://www.apricot.co.uk/rel3/directory/rrr/index.html

It's listed in the International Section of the FAQ club section
(http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/OVLR/FAQ.internat.html) with the Range Rover
Register listing.  

Lloyd's Web page (http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/) should
also have a listing.

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: 05 Dec 95 21:12:58 EST
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Diesel starting

In addition to a good battery,a good earth link is advisable for starting a
diesel, the regular battery earth lead goes to the frame, usually corroded. A
useful mod is to run an additional earth lead to the engine from the batery, or
better still to the starter motor itself.
 After a sluggish start feel all the cable joints in the starting circuit, any
hot joints are asign of high resstance caused by a dirty or poor connection.
 Regards Bill  Leacock  Limey in exile.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 95 04:24:43 +0100
From: sm095re@unidui.uni-duisburg.de (Kurt Reinhardt)
Subject: Discovery/Camel roof-racks

Gerry asks in the digest of 05.12. about discovery racks.....

Yes your guess is correct. As I was glad to drive some of these vehicles at
the german pre-selection I can confirm that they are attached to the very
strong internal rollcage. It is even mentioned as safety advice in " The
Land Rover Experience " written by Tom Sheppard, published by Land Rover
(STC 8545.AA) in the chapter about Loading and weight distribution ( this
book is a nice x-mas gift).
Greetings Kurt

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 95 19:28:41 PST
Subject: Re: D90 SW update

Metro West has received 7 D90 Station Wagons. I posted some stuff the other 
day when the earth stood still - it disappeared into the now-infamous *non* 
digest from the other day. Also, what is this magazine ultrawide bandwidth 
chomper! Why do I feel the urge to zap them into obligatory hell?

Three white, two blue, and two green. They all look great. Lowest number was 
an Arles Blue one with SW #005/500! 

Methinks that I'm going to pop sliders into my `glass hardtop and will report 
on same.

cheerz
Jim - intolerant of non-LRO's - can't help it - I'm obsessed! Or possessed...

`67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (#457/500)
`95 D90 #1958
 

------------------------------

From: Inkornoink@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 22:57:40 -0500
Subject: Re: 1990 RR 

In a message dated 95-12-05 16:26:42 EST, ASFCO@aol.com writes:

SNIP:>

All;      Saw a recent ad for a 1990 RR 79000 miles asking price 14,900.
anything to watch out for in particular on this year ??  Don't know the book
value but price seems a little on the low side for that year, at least here
in NY... any comments welcomed  thanks

It's quite low...I was offered $22,000 for mine one week ago....

If the truck's in good shape, snatch it up....and consider selling it for
more!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Dec 95 16:46:21 EST
From: carley@manly.civeng.unsw.EDU.AU (James Carley - WRL Staff)
Subject: Re: Galvanising and junior framemaster

Michel said that galvanising is $0.75 per POUND in Canada. In Australia it
is approx $AUD 0.80 per KILOGRAM which seems like a bargain. Australian and
Canadian Dollars are approx equal.

My only extra advice is that galvanising can tend to warp or twist things, so
be prepared for this; not to the point of unservicability though.

I'm a big fan of galvanising. Why don't LR galvanise the firewall panels?
Australian army 110's have gal chassis. I've got to get around to blasting
and galvanising my bullbar.

James Carley
'85 110 County 3.9D

------------------------------

From: "GAWIE VAN BLERK" <A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za>
Date:          Wed, 6 Dec 1995 07:57:54 GMT+200
Subject:       LR trip over Afrika

Hi fellow Rovers,

If you have got WWW access have a look at the following URL.

http://gnn.com/gnn/meta/travel/features/lovedu/index.html

It is about a trip over Afrika in a Blue Land Rover and the series is 
at about Chapter 4 now. Very neat, good writing style, what a 
pleasure to find an article like this on the Net.

Greetings

Gawie
Gawie van Blerk
---------------------------------------------------------------
Internet : A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za (work)
         : gawie@pixie.co.za (home)
URL      : http://www.pix.za/bloemfontein/gawie.html
Tel      : 27+51+404-2421
---------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 22:43:45 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: SII vs SIIA

> Solid, 1 piece front doors, at least on the 109s.  I've got a couple of 
> these from a 1959/60 wreck.  The doors have a number of other different 
> features associated with this major change.

Nope.  My '59 109" has 2-piece doors.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 22:45:39 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Christmas Decorations For Your Rover?

Well, I've got year-end-holiday-celebration-of-your-choice (I like the pagan 
festivals of the winter solstice, myself) lights on my roof rack.  And I 
thought I was being so original!  Oh well.  I've got the red ones on, if I 
can find time, I'll get the blue ones up too.  

I was also going to do a holiday card, but I was thinking of getting some 
slow film, and take a picture of the vehicle moving for that liney effect.  
But I don't know enough about photography to get it right.  Well, I'll try, 
it's amazing what these little disposable cameras can do...

BTW, some folks got to see my LR with lights in Mt View last week.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 23:12:40 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Discovery racks 

Clamped on is more accurate a description of how the expedition rack
attaches.  I have a sneaking suspicion that the loads LRNA says a Discovery
can carry on its roof are probably low to satisfy LRNA's lawyers.  According
to the docs, the maximum roof rack load is 110 lbs (!), but I've been on my
rack (175 lbs) and it didn't collapse.  One thing that must come into play
on the stability side is that the suspension on Series Rovers is leaf versus
a Discovery's spring, no?  Sometime I'll have to load up my rack with, oh,
300-400 lbs just to find out at what speed the Discovery becomes unstable.
I've had my unloaded Disco up to 85 mph on Hwy 280 without breathing hard,
and would find 53 mph annoying were I limited to that speed (I tend to
become a bit Type A).

Cheers!
John

At 10:41 05.12.95 -0800, Benjamin Allan Smith wrote:
>In message <199512050449.UAA12894@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us>you wrote:
>> I've got the "expedition" rack, which is exactly like the one in the "La Ruta
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>with good shocks and new springs, a fully loaded Series 88" with, oh, about 300
>lbs in the roof rack develops an uncontrolable side to side roll at about
53mph.
>The only way to regain control is to slow down below that speed, and the roll
>hits suddenly with positive feedback.   
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
>"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
> from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
> Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 23:12:40 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Discovery racks 

Clamped on is more accurate a description of how the expedition rack
attaches.  I have a sneaking suspicion that the loads LRNA says a Discovery
can carry on its roof are probably low to satisfy LRNA's lawyers.  According
to the docs, the maximum roof rack load is 110 lbs (!), but I've been on my
rack (175 lbs) and it didn't collapse.  One thing that must come into play
on the stability side is that the suspension on Series Rovers is leaf versus
a Discovery's spring, no?  Sometime I'll have to load up my rack with, oh,
300-400 lbs just to find out at what speed the Discovery becomes unstable.
I've had my unloaded Disco up to 85 mph on Hwy 280 without breathing hard,
and would find 53 mph annoying were I limited to that speed (I tend to
become a bit Type A).

Cheers!
John

At 10:41 05.12.95 -0800, Benjamin Allan Smith wrote:
>In message <199512050449.UAA12894@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us>you wrote:
>> I've got the "expedition" rack, which is exactly like the one in the "La Ruta
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 21 lines)]
>with good shocks and new springs, a fully loaded Series 88" with, oh, about 300
>lbs in the roof rack develops an uncontrolable side to side roll at about
53mph.
>The only way to regain control is to slow down below that speed, and the roll
>hits suddenly with positive feedback.   
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
>"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
> from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
> Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 22:44:40 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: Buying or Selling a used Land Rover?

omigawd -- not, e-mail-merge! 

Aarrgggghhhhh!!!!

The thing I like best is...

> Every morning you will have a brand new listing 
> of Land Rovers matching your search criteria.  

A whole big listing of all those Land Rovers for sale!  (There are so many, I 
don't know how I'd wade through them all without this service!)  8^)

(Actually, I saw this posted at HP and checked it out; not bad, but not the 
only one.)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

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