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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 00:56:32 +1000
From: karen@uni.masey.ac.nz, feldman@rentwes.org.nz, rjames@otego.ac.nz,
Subject: ===>> FREE 1 yr. Magazine Sub sent worldwide- 295+ Popular USA Titles

-----> NOTE:   Please first read my note which appears below the "Request
for more info Form."  Then, to get more info, just fill out the "Request
for More Info" form completely and *FAX* or *SMAIL* it back to the company.
You will get a quick reply via email within 1 business day of receipt of
the info request form below.

IMPORTANT NOTICE FOR THOSE FAXING IN THEIR REPLY:  Please make sure you
return *only* the below form and *no part* of this message other than the
actual form below.  If you do not know how to cut and paste the below form
onto a fresh clean blank page for faxing, then you may re-type the below
form, as long as you copy it line for line *exactly.*  This is necessary in
order for them to be able to process the tremendous number of replies that
they get daily.

Your fax goes directly onto their 4.2 gigabyte computer hard drive, not
paper, and all incoming fax calls are set-up to be *auto-terminated* if
your fax:
1. has a cover page;
2. is more than one page
3. does not begin with the "cut here/begin" line from the below form
4. does not end with the "cut here/end" line from the below form.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
NOTE:  Their fax line is open 24 hrs. per day, but due to thousands of
inquiries coming in per week from potential new members living overseas,
the easiest time to get through is Monday-Friday, 9 am - 5 pm EST (New York
Time).  If you have trouble getting through to their fax, just drop the
below form to them via smail (airmail or first class mail).
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

*------------cut here/begin-------------------------------------------*
REQUEST FOR MORE INFO:  please return *only* this section (with no cover
page) via 1-page fax to:
                              718-967-1550 in the USA

or via smail (airmail) to:    Magazine Club Inquiry Center
                                         Att. FREE Catalogue-by-email Dept.
                                         PO Box 990
                                         Staten Island NY  10312-0990

Sorry, but incomplete forms *will not* be acknowledged.  If you do not
have an email address, or access to one, they will not be able to help you
until you do have one.  If you saw this message, then you should have one.  :)

Name:
Internet email address:
Smail home address:
City-State-Zip:
Country:
Work Tel. #:
Work Fax #:
Home Tel. #:
Home Fax #:

How did you hear about us (name of person who referred you or the area of
the internet that you saw us mentioned in):  Referral by  Karen Stern.
120495-l

Name of USA mags you currently get on the newsstand or in the store:

Name of USA mags you currently get on the newsstand or in the store:

Name of USA mags you currently get on a subscription basis, through the mail:

Name of USA mags you would like price quotes on when we call you:

Catalogue format desired (list "1," "2," "3" or "4"):

*------------cut here/end--------------------------------------------*

Catalogue Format Options:
1.  19-Part email- can be read by EVERYONE (~525 K Total).
2.  For more advanced computer users:  attached text file ~525K - you
     must know how to download an attached text file and then be able to
     open it with your word processor.  If in doubt, don't ask for this
     version.  This isn't for internet *newbies.* Better to order option 1
     and spend a few minutes pasting them into one whole text document
     with your word processor, than to waste hours trying to figure how
     to deal with this option.
3.  For more advanced Macintosh computer users: compressed attached
     text file, created with a Stuffit(tm) self-extracting archive (.sea),
      ~133K.  Can be decompressed by any Macintosh computer user; no
     special expansion software or knowledge of Stuffit (tm) needed.  You
     just double-click on the file icon and it automatically expands
     (unstuffs). This is for more advanced mac computer users only, as
     you still have to know how to deal with an attached file.  It will cut
     your download time by 75%.   Expands out to the same ~525K file in
     option #2.  See option #2 for more info on what you will need to be
     able to do.
4.  For expert computer users: compressed attached text file, created with
     Stuffit(tm),  ~114K.  Can be decompressed by any computer user who
     has expansion software to decompress (expand) Stuffit(tm) (.sit) files.
     This is for more advanced computer users only and will cut your
     download time by 78%.   Expands out to the same ~525K file in option
     #2.  See option #2 for more info on what you will need to be able to do.

Hi fellow 'netters,

My name is Karen Stern and I recently started using a magazine subscription
club in the USA that has a FREE 1 yr. magazine subscription deal with your
first paid order- and I have been very pleased with them.    They have over
1,500 different USA titles that they can ship to any country on a
subscription basis.   As for computer magazines from the USA, they more of
a selection than I ever knew even existed.  They have magazines for most
every area of interest in their list of 1,500 titles.

Within the USA, for their USA members, they are cheaper than all their
competitors and even the publishers themselves.  This is their price
guarantee.

Overseas, on the average, they are generally around one-fourth to one-half
of what the newsstands overseas charge locally for USA magazines.  On some
titles they are as little as one-tenth of what the newsstands charge.  They
feel that mgazines should not be a luxury overseas.   In the USA, people
buy magazines and then toss them after reading them for just a few minutes
or hours.  They are so cheap in the USA!   Well, this company would like to
make it the same way for their overseas members.  They are also cheaper
than all their competitors in the USA and overseas, including the
publishers themselves!   This is their price guarantee.  Around one-half
their business comes from overseas, so they are very patient with new
members who only speak limited English as a 2nd language.

Their prices are so cheap because they deal direct with each publisher and
cut-out all the middlemen.

They will send you their DELUXE EMAIL CATALOGUE (around 525K-big and
juicey) !)...if you completely fill out the form above.  It has lists of
all the freebies, lists of all the titles they sell, titles broken down by
categories and detailed descriptions on nearly 1,200 of the titles that
they sell.

Please do not email me as I am just a happy customer and a *busy* student.
I don't have time to even complete my thesis in time, let alone run my
part-time software business!  Please fill out the above form and carefully
follow the intructions above to get it to them via fax or smail.

They guarantee to beat all their competitors' prices. Sometimes they are
less than half of the next best deal I have been able to find and other
times, just a little cheaper - but I have never found a lower rate yet.
They assured me that if I ever do, they will beat it.

They have been very helpful and helped me with all my address changes as I
haved moved from one country to another.

They have a deal where you can get a free 1 yr. sub to a new magazine from
a special list of over 295 popular titles published in the USA.   They will
give you this free 1 yr. sub when you place your first paid order with them
to a renewal or new subscription to any of the over 1,500 different popular
USA titles they sell.

They can arrange delivery to virtually any country and I think they have
clients in around 45 or 46 countries now.  Outside the USA there is a
charge for FPH (foreign postage and handling) (on both paid and freebie
subs) that varies from magazine to magazine.  I have found their staff to
be very friendly and courteous.  They even helped me with an address change
when I moved from one country to another.

The owner thinks of his service as a "club" and his clients as "members"

automatically makes you a member) and he is real picky about who he accepts
as a new member.   When he sets you up as a new member, he himself calls
you personally on the phone to explain how he works his deal, or sometimes
he has one of his assistants call.  He is kind of quirky sometimes - he
insists on setting up new members by phone so he can say hi to everyone (I
sure wouldn't want to have his phone bills!),  but you can place future
orders (after your first order) via E-mail.

He has some really friendly young ladies working for him, who seem to know
just as much as he does about this magazine stuff.  If you live overseas,
he will even call you there, as long as you are interested, but I think he
still makes all his overseas calls on the weekends, I guess cause the long
distance rates are cheaper then.

He only likes to take new members from referrals from satisfied existing
members and he does virtually no advertising.  When I got set-up, they had
a 2-3 week waiting list for new members to be called back so that they
could join up. (Once you are an existing member, they help you immediately
when you call. )  I think they are able to get back to prospective new
members  the same day or within a few days now, as they have increased
their staff.  I am not sure about this.........but if you email the above
form to them, that is the way to get started!

They will send you their DELUXE EMAIL CATALOGUE (around 525K-big and
juicey) !)...if you completely fill out the form above.  It has lists of
all the freebies, lists of all the titles they sell, titles broken down by
categories and detailed descriptions on nearly 1,200 of the titles that
they sell.

They then send you email  that outlines how his club works and the list of
free choices that you can choose from, as well as the entire list of what
he sells;  and then they will give you a quick (3-5 minute) friendly,
no-pressure no-obligation call to explain everything to you personally and
answer all your questions.

Once you get in, you'll love them. I do.

Sincerely,

Karen Stern

ps.  please forward a copy of this message to all your friends on the net
who you think might be interested in it!  It is a great deal!  If you join
and then they join after you, you will earn a free 1 yr. subscription for
each new person you get to join after you join!   If you exceed 25
referrals, they let you use them to give away as gifts, for Christmas,
Chanukah or any other occasion.  Please be kind enough to mention my name
when you join.   I will then get a free magazine for a year for referring
you.
Thank you.

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  4 Dec 95  7:58:41 EST
Subject: Who was the idiot behind the magazine subscriptions? I have a 5

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Santanas in US
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 95 08:06:00 EST

While in Virginia for the Mid Atlantic I met a house painter who used to own 
a Santana. He said this was imported by a Mr Bill Dickey, a scottish 
refugee!, and was now back with said Mr Dickey. Anyone know of its 
whereabouts?

Trevor Easton

------------------------------

From: Stuart Williams <STUARTW@po1.net.cho.ge.com>
Subject: Squeaky Wheel Fix (Short Term)
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 95 08:25:00 EST

>> From: PZavaletta@aol.com
>> Date: Sun, 3 Dec 1995 06:50:10 -0500
>> Subject: How To Fix Squeaky Steering Wheel?

Pending a trip to our dealer for the 'official' corrective action, I fixed 
the squeaky wheel on my '95 Disco as follows :

1) From under the hood, locate the opening in the firewall where the 
steering column passes through.  There will be a black rubber fitting in the 
opening.
2) Use a cartridge-style grease gun to apply a bead of grease into the right 
and left sides of the narrow gap between the firewall grommet and the 
steering column itself.  There is a recess all around the column that 
extends to the actual point of contact with the steering column.
3) Take a small paintbrush (I used an old 1" wide brush) and use it spread 
the grease around all sides of the column to ensure coverage where it's 
needed.

That's it!  Five minutes maximum.  Four weeks later and I'm still 
squeak-free, and mine was getting to be very insistent before 'the fix', 
especially on colder mornings.  I had already tried greasing from the 
driver's side of the firewall but was unsuccessful, most likely due to a 
steel bracket and other obstructions that were in the way.

As to type of grease, I used marine-grade lithium grease that I had on hand 
for the steering mechanism on our sailboat. (BTW, 'sailboat'  is Latin for 
"fiberglass-lined hole in the water into which you pour money", so 'Rover' 
must be a terra firma derivative!)  The results have been very satisfactory; 
in fact the steering feels notably smoother which would seem to indicate 
that there was friction even when there weren't annoying squeaks ... YMMV!

Good luck,

Stuart Williams
'95 Disco V8i "Great White"
'85 LandCruiser "Old Paint"

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 07:33:06 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Diesel Starting

Bill Adams asks:
Snip
> Therefore I think I need MORE POWER-ERGHH! Anybody have a solution to this?
> I wonder if two 12v batteries in parallel would work or do I simply need to 
> get two ultra robust 6v units. HMMM. 

Get the two biggest 12v batteries that will fit. If you want to get 
fanatical about it one could be a deep cycle hooked only to your glow 
plugs and the other for cranking the starter, but I don't think 
that's really needed. Just get high reserve capacity and the highest 
cca you can. since it's a LR you amy want to consider  truck 
batteries since they are designed to handle vibration better.
Good luck.
cough,cough, hack, hack. Man, where's all this smoke coming from?

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date: 04 Dec 1995 09:15:09 GMT
From: "Anthony Verriello" <verriello_anthony@jpmorgan.com>
Subject: NAS D90 Hardtop

[This note has been sent to the following InterNet address(es):
lro @ Land-Rover.Team.Net]

Since I have spoken to a few LRO's who voiced an interest in hearing about my
self installation and
removal of my D90 hard top I thought I would take an opportunity to answer
everyone in one shot
in the digest....forgive me if this message does not interest you.

I have a '94 NAS D90 that I bought before the hardtop was available.  I was the
first person to purchase the retrofit kit from the dealership when first
imported and subsequently was the first person to discover that they had made
no provision for locking and unlocking the rear gate.  As far as the price
goes, I paid $2500.00 US for mine.  I think that this price is high, but it is
the only show in town and the D90 is consderably warmer, quiter and more secure
with it on.  If you have a '94 you should also plan on buying the new lockset
for the rear gate so you can open the door from the outside, this adds another
$100-$200 US.  Also the full safari cage is required if you don't have
it...another costly add on.

The top is not 100% draft and water tight.  When I first had it installed,  I
let the dealer do it the first time, I was a little unsettled by the rain and
drafts comming in.  After having re-installed it myself and seeing how it all
goes together I can honestly say that it could be made tight, but only if you
want permanent seals and dont plan on removing it.  Also I would not recommend
installing it yourself the first time.  Drilling and installing the riv-nuts
will most likely not be worth the savings on the installation cost (6-8 hours
of labor).

Removing it and reinstalling the soft top is very straight foward and can
easily be accomplished by two people in a few hours.

Installation, the second time, also requires two people and  since I just
completed this last week let me give a few pointers:
1) Installation takes at least 5 hours!!!  I started way too late and ran out
of sunlight-really bad move.
2) Do it before it gets cold.  Trying to line up all the holes in the various
bits is nearly impossible &
     dangerous when the fiberglass is brittle from the cold.
3) Inventory your hardware first...I was missing some washers and things and it
really caused problems.
4) Wires to overhead lights need to go under the top....not in the door jamb,
unless you are not attatched to closing the drivers door.   Trust me, you dont
want to take the top off to remedy this.
5) Be patient...the instructions (yeah I know read LRO's dont need any) says
things like 'one person should muscle the windshield into place under the top
to make the holes line up as the other person bolts it down!!!' -- not
something you want to rush
6) Follow the instructions and dont worry about the extra pieces that the
instructions dont mention...obviously not important.

All in all, I like the hardtop, dont mind taking it off, but wouldnt want to
install it more than once a year.  One person asked me if it could be removed
for a day and reinstalled. NO WAY. Even if you didnt mind wasting half the day
to do it, the top would not survive the repeated removal/installations.

If anyone in the NY area needs to have their top installed/removed I am
available...however I will need to charge twice the hourly rate of the
dealership because I would simply bring it to them anyway and I need to make
some money on the deal  ;~)).
I do offer free advice if anyone would like to contact me by email with
questions.

verriello_anthony@jpmorgan.com

 +-+--+-@
 |_|_/|__\__
 | _  |' |_ |} (Dagwood...named for his voracious appetite,
 =(_)=+==(_)'             petrol not sandwiches)

NAS '94 black D90
(happiness is pulling a jeep out of a hole)

Pre-requisite anal disclaimer to follow:::
The views and opinions expressed here are solely the views of myself and do not
imply any opinion or view of my employer.

------------------------------

Date: 4 Dec 1995 09:25:31 -0500
From: "Bill Skidmore" <skidmore@mitre.org>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Sandy;

As you may have noticed, there have been a number of mentions of this
abomination to enable me to point the finger towards the source.

Hey, Major;

Any chance of reconstituting the balance of that list and retransmitting it
to the list members?

 ------ From: Owner-LRO@uk.stratus.com, Mon, Dec 4, 1995 ------ 

Date: Sun, 3 Dec 1995 22:50:16 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: List wierdness

The 12/2 list was truncated (or at least I received it that way).  Message 
headers and footers from the Major were intact, but only 7 of 30+ messages. 
Any one else with this affliction or is my no-namo service provider screwing
up?
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 08:33:41 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Who was the idiot behind the magazine subscriptions? I have

Alan asks:
> Who was the idiot behind the magazine subscriptions? I have a 5

As usual, the return address is invalid; however, one of them is a 
real host, Otego University in New Zealand, but the user is not 
listed in their gopher directory. I have e-mailed someone at the 
univeristy to try and find the address of the person to whom  I can 
send the message information. Not that I think it will do any good. 
Most likely they've spoofed the return address.
E-mail me directly if you want info I get, if any.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

Date:  Mon, 4 Dec 1995 09:29:00 -0500 
From: "christian (c.j.) szpilfogel" <chrisz@bnr.ca>
Subject:  Hi-Lift and Disco 

Bob Watson writes...
>neat! I put a shakle adapter in the receiver hitch and used it to  jack the 
>back of the Disco up, and the Hi-lift was up about 3-feet before the rear 
>wheel's got off the ground.

This seems to be a problem. One of the ways I used to use the Hi-lift on
an old CJ was to raise the wheels stuck in the mud and push the vehicle
off of the jack and onto a non-hole.

The largest Hi-lift I've seen is a 4' so 1 foot of clearance doesn't look like
it leaves enough room to pull my old trick.

Cheers,

  -Christian
--------------
Christian Szpilfogel
'95 Discovery
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date:  Mon, 4 Dec 1995 09:29:00 -0500 
From: "christian (c.j.) szpilfogel" <chrisz@bnr.ca>
Subject:  Hi-Lift and Disco 

Bob Watson writes...
>neat! I put a shakle adapter in the receiver hitch and used it to  jack the 
>back of the Disco up, and the Hi-lift was up about 3-feet before the rear 
>wheel's got off the ground.

This seems to be a problem. One of the ways I used to use the Hi-lift on
an old CJ was to raise the wheels stuck in the mud and push the vehicle
off of the jack and onto a non-hole.

The largest Hi-lift I've seen is a 4' so 1 foot of clearance doesn't look like
it leaves enough room to pull my old trick.

Cheers,

  -Christian
--------------
Christian Szpilfogel
'95 Discovery
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 10:11:30 -0500
Subject: Discovery racks

There are several ads. for racks (full-length, half-length) for the Discovery
in the LRO and LRW.  Has anyone purchased an after-market product?  What is
the carrying capacity of the your rack on the Discovery?  More than the 150
lb +/- recommended? 

BTW: I see *tons* of stuff on top of the Camel Trophy Discoveries.  I'm
assuming that their racks are braced against the internal roll cages to
provide more carrying strength?  Can anyone in the UK with an older CT
vehicle verify?

Gerry "He's ain't heavy... he's my brother" Elam

------------------------------

From: Ross Leidy <ross@secant.com>
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 95 10:14:17 0500
Subject: Spotted 95 NAS D90SW

Dropped my D90 off at the dealer today for the 2nd in anticipated series of
warranty service visits.  They had just received their first D90SW delivered
over the weekend--alpine white, very nice.  Didn't have the time to stop and
drool, but I hope to go back later to check it out (if it hasn't been sold
by then). Now that Winter is setting-in here in N.E. Ohio, that hardtop
keeps looking better and better.  For now, I'm flappin' in the breeze.

______________________________________________________
Ross Leidy  (ross@secant.com)
Senior Software Engineer
Secant Technologies, Inc.
95 NAS D90 #3032

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 16:30:18 +0100
From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditr1.arcs.ac.at>
Subject: Re: Christmas Decorations For Your Rover?

Hello!

John Y. Liu wrote:
:) Well, I just finished decorating the Rover for Christmas.  200 white lights
.....
:) Looks great at night, ...

Can you post an image?

Thanks, Peter

Signature: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter
Landrover: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Mon, 4 Dec 1995 15:49:00 +0000
Subject:       Re: Hi-Lift and Disco 

On  4 Dec 95, christian (c.j.) szpilfogel wrote:

> The largest Hi-lift I've seen is a 4' so 1 foot of clearance doesn't look
> like it leaves enough room to pull my old trick.
I've got a 5' in the back of my landy - gives you 2' of lift :-)
(more likly, it gives you 1' of lift & sinks the baseplate 1' into the 
mud!)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Dec 1995 00:01:12 +0800
From: OscarM <omont@mnl.sequel.net>
Subject: Posting upcoming events

Came across a web page, http://www.indirect.com/www/a4x4/4x4clubs.html,
which appears to welcome postings of upcoming club events.

For your info.

omont@mnl.sequel.net
75247.2423@compuserve.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 11:26:14 -0500
From: jeff@purpleshark.com (Jeffrey A. Berg)
Subject: Re: Water, water everywhere...

Whoops, looks like a made a little mistake in my query when I responded to
this thread the first time.  To set the record straight, I DO have "folded
over" weather stripping on my IIa.  It's installed with the opening in the
rubber facing the opening of the doorway, and everything is fine except for
the upper portion of the drivers door, where i's refused to settle in
despite the constant use of tape to hold it in place.

What I meant to ask was this:  It is my understanding that the original
door seal was made of a full round tube, not the current "half tube" (for
lack of a better description) style.  Can anyone confirm, or deny this?  If
so, does anybody know of an alternative material that's more like what I'm
told was originally fitted?  This is a small problem, but I'd really like
to get it straightened out and I'd rather not redo the job with the same
stuff if I'm just going to have the same problem.

Thanks, RoverOn!

JAB

==                                                                      ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          ==================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)
==                                                                      ==

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Dec 95 11:43:45 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Christmas Lights, Frames, Steering Relay

Well, being Jewish, I wouldn't likely use christmas lights, but I am looking
for a Menorah shaped aerial if anybody,s got one...

In the spirit of the season however, I did help my roomate, who's Rover is
languishing, stripped bare of its hydraulics, to acquire a Christmas Tree
and a load of firewood. I'm sure the Rover was quite happy to be engaged in
such family oriented work... the back was loaded to the hilt (tilt?, nah,
hardtop.) with oak and handled it with nary a groan or grind. In fact the
ride actually felt smoother!
On another note, picked up a used frame on Saturday, took it to its
temporary home and stripped it of all its various pieces, i.e steering
relay, spring bushings(burning them out was rather neat, sort of like those
"snakes" you get as a kid, just way more toxic), bump stops, brake lines,
etc,. Had to whack the hell out of the relay to get it out, so I guess I
need a new one. Thought about getting it rebuilt but apparently it's not
worth it with BM versions going for $125 US. Also noticed one front horn
has been hit and is tweaked a little towards the inside of the frame.
THought about using my HI-lift to try to bend it back, any ideas? Should I
not bother? Also planning to galvanise, so any tips on that are welcome and
appreciated. Thanks for listening.
Dave Bobeck
72 SIII "Green Car"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 95 11:49:25 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: Haynes FS and a SIIa encounter

1. the SI-II-IIa Haynes repair manual, new - $18 .

2. Driving  off the beach after a windsurfing session in a New Jersey
island town of Seaside, saw a "perfect" SIIa pull up to a liquor store.

I pulled up behind him, jumped out of the F*rd,
and yelled out something about having
a Landie myself. The old man didn't slow down, just said something like "yeah?"
and went in to the store.  So I had time to look over the Landie.

Obviously, just came off the beach.  Everything, inluding tires, looked of
original vintage.  Very well beat, undistinguishable color paint, looked
like a daily fishing/liquor store driver.  109 ragtop with 4 doors?
Instead of the "genuine" ragtop, an adapted blue biminy top on marine stainless
tubing covered just the front seats and a couple of feet behind them.
Not at all a weather proof design, barely enough to slow rain and winter air
from coming in.

The old man came out, holding a bottle with a bag over it.  Now he was willing
to talk, but only long enough to tell me that this WAS a SW, but he cut
the rear tops off, and made the "biminy" ragtop himself. "The hardtops are
too stuffy", he said. Tough dude! (I bet the *real* reason was that he was
getting too much interference with his mobile phone :) - sorry, couldn't resist.

Let me know if you want the manual.
Thanks
Jan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Dec 95 11:56:58 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Christmas Camouflage

          I was watching a show on PBS the other day, about
          modern camouflage techniques. One involved a
          LAnd-Rover 110 driving behind a cloud of smoke
          (must have been a diesel) which you could not see
          through. The next shot was the same image seen
          through an infrared camera, which was able to
          easily see right through the smoke (could be handy
          to have one of those onboard.) Another technique
          was for obscuring a dark object against a light
          background, by covering it with bright lights.
          Worked quite well, in fact it started on WWII
          bombers, so that the U-boat captains couldn't see
          'em until it was too late. Maybe something similar
          could be achieved by the use of multitudes of
          Christmas lights, although they'd have to be white
          and not blinking...
          Just a thought
          Dave "too much spare time"  Bobeck

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 12:05:43 -0500
From: jeff@purpleshark.com (Jeffrey A. Berg)
Subject: Jack All (Hi-lift) accessories?

Here's a question for the experienced offroad contingent.  This will become
crucial to me this summer as a friend has offered me the use of his Vermont
property, an old trappers cabin, for camping, fishing, and as a base of
operations for some trail exploration.  Getting to the property  involves
crossing a (hopefully low) river.  What was the first thing he bought after
the property?  A new LWB Series II Land-Rover of course.  He had a winch
and was forced to use it to get up the muddy bank a couple of times.  I'm
still hoping to avoid such a purchase, at least for the time being.  (I may
decide to get a good come-along though.)

At the Mid Atlantic Rally I bought myself a 48" Jackall 8000 "hi-lift"
jack.  In addition to allowing me to change a tire, I'd like to have the
necessary hardware to use the thing as an emergency "winch" should the need
arise.  I already have a 25' nylon tow strap that should at least serve as
a tree strap.  Now I want to fully outfit the vehicle though, as it looks
like it may get some serious use.   I'd really like to know what people
carry in their offroad kits in terms of rope, chain, blocks, shackles, etc.
Please be specific in terms of sizes, quantity, grades, materials, etc.
Christmas is coming, and your list may be printed out and submitted to
Santa, who will probably just hand it directly to the guy at Ace Industrial
Hardware.  (Mom likes Lou, he doesn't talk down to her.)

Also, am I correct that the Jackall needs an attachment before it can be
used for pulling?  Is there a guide to the various uses for Jackall/Hi-Lift
jacks?  Ideally, I'd like to lay out a few problems in my driveway before
trying to rig something in the middle of a river.

Thanks for the input.  I think it will be interesting to see what various
people consider necessary.  And while we're talking about it, why limit
ourself to pushing/pulling/lifting.  Let's go all the way and talk about
what makes an all-around well equipped Rover.

RoverOn!

JAB

==                                                                      ==
 Jeffrey A. Berg          Purple Shark Media                 Rowayton, CT

                         jeff@purpleshark.com
                          ==================
               My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
          My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
                       Taste for the good life,
                      I can see it no other way.
                                --Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)
==                                                                      ==

------------------------------

From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date:          Mon, 4 Dec 1995 15:49:00 +0000
Subject:       Re: Hi-Lift and Disco 

On  4 Dec 95, christian (c.j.) szpilfogel wrote:

> The largest Hi-lift I've seen is a 4' so 1 foot of clearance doesn't look
> like it leaves enough room to pull my old trick.
I've got a 5' in the back of my landy - gives you 2' of lift :-)
(more likly, it gives you 1' of lift & sinks the baseplate 1' into the 
mud!)

     ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer)        +44 31 650 6205
Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. 
 <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 08:19:33 -0500
From: RICHARD_COLEMAN@fmso.navy.mil (RICHARD COLEMAN)
Subject: 6 Year Corrosion Warranty

         Greetings,

             Before I write a letter to Mr. Hughes at LRNA
         to bitch about the subject warranty I wanted to
         probe the wisdom on this digest list.
             The upper rear hatch on our 90 RR (the money
         pit)--(I'll explain the name in another post) began
         to rust in the lower right corner. I scheduled a
         local body shop to do the work. In the meantime I
         noticed in the Atlantic British want ads that a
         gentleman from Cleveland, OH., who was selling his
         90 RR that he had both upper and lower tailgates
         replaced under the 6 Year Corrosion Warranty. I
         called LRNA Owner Care Dept. to ask what procedure
         to follow. I explained the problem and was told
         that the warranty covered THE ENTIRE VEHICLE, to
         call the LR dealer and schedule an inspection by
         the factory rep. The inspection done, the dealer
         advised the warranty would not be honored because
         it only covered the PAINTED surface of the vehicle.
         Not satisfied with that I called the rep (it took
         several days to actually speak to this guy) and he
         said the same thing even reading part of the
         warranty to me over the phone. He also advised that
         he had NEVER allowed a corrosion warranty claim.
         Even when I mentioned the guy from Cleveland he
         said maybe his dealer paid for the gate replacement
         because he was a good customer (yeah right).
             I'm asking for comments and sugestions on how
         to handle this situation. Anyone else had any
         corrosion warranty work done?

                                    TIA,
                                    Rick
                                    90 RR(the money pit)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 12:33:28 -0500 (EST)
From: STEVE COX <Steve_Cox@delphi.com>
Subject: IIA for sale in West Virginia

Just a quick note to those in the DC area.  Looking for that last miniute
stocking stuffer?
Alan Biggs is looking to sell his 1965 SIIA 88" hardtop.  Good condition,
asking $4,500.
Call Alan at 304-822-5503, Romney, WV

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Dec 1995 11:48:57 -0800
From: Keith Morehouse-WB9TIY <blckhole@ripco.com>
Subject: Headlight Guards for Disco's

A recent message mentioned the enormous coat of OEM headlight 
replacements.  I shudder at the thought of one of them taking a direct 
hit while overtaking some goat-roper's Fo/Chev/Dodge pick-em-up 
while ascending a rock strewn hill.

Does anybody know of a source (preferably NA - but anywhere will do) 
of polycarbonate, lexan or other roost-proof material HEADLIGHT AND 
FOGLIGHT COVERS for Disco's (95/96 MY) ??

No tint - no BS - just CLEAR protectors.

---------------------------###-----------------------------
PROBE ELECTRONICS 100 Higgins Road, Park Ridge IL 60068 USA
Keith J. Morehouse / WB9TIY / Society of Midwest Contesters
708-696-2828  FAX: 708-698-2045  e-mail: blckhole@ripco.com
---------------------------###-----------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 09:51:57 -0800
From: matts@cacilj.caciasl.com (Matt Snyder)
Subject: Models & Sources

Just received a plastic scale model Range Rover kit (normal civilian style, 
not police or ambulance), made by Aoshima, from Triple C.  I don't have a 
lot of experience with models, but I find the amount of detail astonishing.  
The assembly instructions for the undercarriage look like pages from a shop 
manual (a Japanese shop manual, anyway).

-Matt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Dec 1995 11:14:04 -0700
From: David Dodell <david@dental.stat.com>
Subject: Model of Discovery

I am looking hard for a Britains Discovery Model in RED.

I ordered one from Rover North, it arrived today in Green, and they claim
they are all sold out, and are not planning on getting any more in.

Rover Atlantic did not have them in stock either.

Any other suggestions?

David Dodell
---
Internet : david@dental.stat.com
WWW   : http://www.stat.com/~david
Telephone: +1-602-860-1121
FAX      : +1-602-451-1165

------------------------------

From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 13:14:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Discovery racks

On  4 Dec 95 at 10:11, GElam30092@aol.com wrote:
> There are several ads. for racks (full-length, half-length) for the Discovery
> in the LRO and LRW.  Has anyone purchased an after-market product?  What is
> the carrying capacity of the your rack on the Discovery?  More than the 150
> lb +/- recommended? 
. . . .

I asked about this a while back. Part of the issue is stability while 
driving with extra weight so high up. Don't know how the Camel Trophy 
vehicles do it.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Dec 95 11:45:19 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Results of new cam in the Range Rover.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Results of new cam in the Range Rover.
I know there are several Range Rover owners who were eagerly awaiting my
completion of the new cam for my '87 RR. Well, here it is:

I called several suppliers, British Pacific (BP), and Rovers West, and got
some prices on cam and lifters for my RR since I (thought) had a lifter
clicking. Then I called Crane Cams in Florida and was told that there were
several available. From his description I selected a "mild RV cam" that was
to provide more low end torque and possibly better fuel milage. Great! I
thought, and at a price less than that of the suppliers.

Parts come in, get installed (a GREAT deal of details left out here, but it
was quite a job!) I also had the valves ground since I needed to replace a
head gasket anyway. Basically, with the exception of main bearings and
rings, a "new" engine. Of course, there were the usual surprises along the
way, some expected (timing gear and chain worn) some not (A/C fans worn out,
one was unplugged, and an A/C hose). We discovered that the "noisy lifter"
was actually a combination of a worn out pushrod and rocker, and a "flat"
cam lobe. (Not actually "flat" but very noticeably worn down.)

Finally back together. Starts with a bit of difficulty, we brake in the cam
and test drive. Seems to idle with a bit of a lope, (cool!) but doesn't seem
to have any power. Like I have to floor it to even go anywhere. Something
was definitely wrong!!! To make a long story short (too late) I resorted to
calling Crane Cams technical support number. The guy started asking me about
the compression, and lifter pre-load, when he suddenly stops and says "Wait
a minute... What was that cam number?" He then tells me that that was for a
non-computer vehicle and will not work with the RR. He said that all he
could do was to send me out the correct one (charging to my visa card) and
allow credit for the wrong one upon it's return. And the correct cam was
around $85 more than the other one. Being stuck, I agreed.

They rushed it out and it was installed. Now, to test drive. Smooth idle,
good. .. performance (mind you, this is at 6000 foot elevation) fair. Not
great, but not bad. Pretty much as it was with the old cam. We played with
the timing a bit, but it never really made that much difference. I'm still
going to experiment with the vacuum advance, switching it from ported vacuum
to manifold vacuum to see if that makes any difference. Back in Phoenix
(1200 foot level) much better than Flagstaff (6000 foot) but again, pretty
much same as stock.

While I would definitely say that this is not the final verdict, the
preliminary verdict is: No noticeable difference. The RR does run better,
but I don't know if it's the valve job, or cam. And the difference that I DO
notice is so slight that I would NOT recommend changing to this cam for
better performance. Again, this could change, depending on my testing with
the vacuum advance.

The heroes of my cam ordeal: British Pacific! (Shameless plug: great people,
helpful, speedy service, reasonable prices, CALL 1-800-554-4133) They rushed
extra parts to me as we came across bad things, provided the head bolt
spec's (I have a book now) rushed out the 2nd set of valley pan and timing
cover gaskets (to do the cam again). After a very tactful but stern letter
to Crane Cams, they called me to inform me that they'll pay for the 2nd set
of gaskets needed and the labor for doing the cam the 2nd time. Even though
they made the initial error, they made it right as best they were able. I'd
recommend them! (Now to dig up all those receipts!)

I'll post more on this (cam) as I experiment with it.

BTW, I used the RR to tow the 109 back from Flagstaff. On a long mountain
hill, the 109 slowed to around 7-15 miles per hour (no speedometer) when
towing the RR, and the RR slowed to around 30-35 when towing the 109. But,
the RR was loaded with 3 kids myself and a dog, the 109 was loaded with
several guns, tools, jack, and a complete turbo V6 Buick engine in the back.

Disclaimer: This was my experience. Your "milage" may vary.

Thanks for the bandwidth. Please feel free to e-mail of you have any
questions. Dave Brown  debrown@srp.gov

#=======#          ________           We make a living by what we get,
|__|__|__\___     /__/__|__\___        we make a life by what we give.
| _|  |   |_ |}   \_/-\_|__/-\_|}
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                       Winston Churchill

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 14:08:43 -0500 (EST)
From: James Kirkpatrick - INEN/F94 <jkirkpat@acs.ryerson.ca>
Subject: 1970 IIA for Sale

If Santa is looking to replace his Sleigh, I've got the toy he needs.  I 
have decided to sell my 1970 IIA, which being a nice poppy red should make 
a wonderful replacement for Santa.  It is a straight forward IIA, it has 
been invited to be on display for the last two years in the local mall 
where is ususally stands out amongst a bunch of MGAs and E types.  I've 
owned her for 4 years and driven it daily to work for two of those 
years.  
London, Ontario is located about 2 hours north east of Detroit and 2 
hours from Buffalo, New York for those of you in the States.  Depending 
on timing and other arrangements we are still looking for a road trip 
over the Christmas holidays perhaps meeting 1/2 way or more.  
I'm asking $3000. Canadian and may go lower but I would like to take out 
the back seats and perhaps trade back the high ratio diffs.  If is helps 
I think that $3000 Cnd is $2160US today.

Happy Holidays
Jay Kirkpatrick
'55 Series I
'58 Series II
'70 Series IIA
jkirkpat@acs.ryerson.ca

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 14:22:04 -0500 (EST)
From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu>
Subject: 88 RoofRacks...

Howdy all,

does anyone have a good source for aftermarket full length roof racks for 
a S.III 88", relatively cheaply?  By that I mean not Rovers North pricing...
thnx in advance,
steve

	_________________________________
	|_______|_______|_______|_______|	"Moose"
	|   ____________    |	   |	\\	'73 III 88"
	|  /  	  |	\   |  	   |	 \\      ________
     	|  |	  |	|   |	   |	  \\    |        |
	|  \______|_____/   |______|_______\\___|________|__
	|___________________|_______________|---------------\
	|  []    []    []   |		    | 0		    |)
	|                   |--]	    |               |		
       _|    /	 OOOOO      |		    |      OOOOO    |__
      |_|____I OO o o OO ___|_______________|___ OO o o OO ____|
	   0  OO o 0 o OO			OO o 0 o OO
	       OO  o  OO     "Tread Lightly"     OO  o  OO
              	 OOOOO				   OOOOO
       		           Florida Rover Canvas
	Steve Swiger   
	swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu
	(813) 874-5391
	(813) 253-0905 (Work)

------------------------------

From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 14:47:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Headlight Guards for Disco's

On  4 Dec 95 at 11:48, Keith Morehouse-WB9TIY wrote:
> Does anybody know of a source (preferably NA - but anywhere will do) 
> of polycarbonate, lexan or other roost-proof material HEADLIGHT AND 
> FOGLIGHT COVERS for Disco's (95/96 MY) ??

The U.K. Discovery accessory catalog has clear headlight protecters. 
Don't recall what they are made off. Don't have catalog with me to 
give part number.

Do U.K. Disco's have differently shaped headlights? If not these 
might work. I like them better than the metal grids.

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: 04 Dec 95 16:07:36 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: Roof Racks

     Land Rover Owners are lucky in having so many companies catering to 
     our needs (whims?) when it come to roof racks. Brownchurch, Bearmarch, 
     Land Rover's own equipment etc.
     
     Over here in the USA we have some but not all of the products. Have 
     any of you inspected or bought the LiteRacs roof rack? I'm interested 
     in any comments good bad or ugly on quality of construction, design, 
     problems encountered in use etc.
     
     While I have no plans to mount the unit permanently on the vehicle I 
     would like to be able to mount spots on the rack CT/La Ruta Maya 
     style.
     
     And while we're at it please comment on any other roof rack products.
     
     Thanks
     Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com
     Brit in Boston
     95 Discovery I wave and go off road.    
     

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Dec 95 13:38:39 PST
From: "BREAKFIELD ERNEST" <breakfield.ernest@smtpgateway.centigram.com>
Subject: compressed air source

     hello all!
        not recommended (by me), but submitted as food for thought;
        one idea i saw for air pressure for off roading involved a custom 
     bumper (of the 'tube' type) fitted w/ a connector for an air hose. 
     seems the chap had a custom bumper made with a tube as if an air 
     pressure vessel, and simply pumped it up @ the service station when 
     convenient before air'ed-down off roading, plugging the hose into the 
     bumper to re-air when returning to pavement. very convenient, but i'd 
     wouldn't want to be around (spotting?) were he to slip into something 
     solid whilst under full pressure. don't remember how much pressure he 
     used, but the air volume was apparently adequate for airing up 4 
     slightly larger than average tires.
        this guy was the sort that lived out in the Sierras where 
     arrow-hunted bear meat is still considered a staple (only in season, 
     of course, Mr. warden!), not the sort to be concerned about trifles 
     like vehicular regulations and the such, so i wouldn't dare speak for 
     the legalities of driving public highways with a compressed air 
     cylinder for a bumper... (i know even SCUBA tanks are regulated by our 
     Dept. of Motor Vehicles as it's assumed they will be transported by 
     auto.)
     
                                                        ciaou,
                                                                e

------------------------------

Subject: Buying or Selling a used Land Rover?
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 95 14:22:30 -0800
From: Karim El-Fishawy <karime@wsykare.cup.hp.com>

Just wanted to let people know about a great service on the Web 
that makes buying and selling used Land Rovers a snap. 

Classifieds2000 (http://www.Classifieds2000.com) is a free public 
service that actually does your shopping for you.  You simply specify 
the type of Land Rover you are looking for (including model, year, 
price range, mileage, body style, transmission...) and every time 
another user inputs a Land Rover onto the system meeting your criteria you 
are notified via email.  Every morning you will have a brand new listing 
of Land Rovers matching your search criteria.  The feature in Classifieds2000
is called "Cool-Notify" and it is actually a really neat way to shop.

Plus, if you are selling your car, you can list your ad for free 
on Classifieds2000.

                          http://www.classifieds2000.com
                         |
                 _____   |
             ___/__|__\__|
            (__  ______ __)= ooo
        ______(O)_____(O)________

------- End of Forwarded Message

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 18:21:35 -0500 (EST)
From: m8f@ornl.gov (M Scott Fugate)
Subject: 67 IIA for Sale in Tennessee 

I was delighted to learn of two new Series Land Rovers in my fair city of
Knoxville, Tennessee USA last week.  This brings the grand total up to six
in a town of that's the third largest in the state.  Unfortunately one of
these new found local Rovers is for sale.  The owner just finished restoring
it, and then decided to go back to medical school.  No time and no money for
him for a few years, so the Rover has to go.  It's a '67 IIA with only
38,152 original miles.  Seems it was bought new by a Texas oil man for his
wife, and she didn't ever get the knack of the gear shifting.  The Rover was
stored in a barn and only used occasionally by the husband to check on his
wells.  The current owner says when he picked it up, the inside of the left
front wing was coated in old crude.  Frame is said to be perfect, and
interior is original in great shape.  The current owner repainted it
(Limestone over Marine Blue) and rebuilt the brakes, etc.  Asking price is a
pretty steep $13,500.  Could be a good opportunity for someone who wants a
Series Rover that's "ready to go", I guess.

Owner's name is Carl Wheeler, phone number 423-522-0619.  All standard
disclaimers apply.  I haven't seen this truck, and only have talked to the
owner once, but if somebody is serious about buying it, I would be willing
to go check it out and offer an opinion before you travel. YMMV.

Scott Fugate
1970 IIA
1989 RR

BT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Dec 95 16:31:33 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Horror story

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Horror story
John writes (in reference to my cam changing post.)

=========================================================================
   Reply-To: johannes@uiuc.edu

   Thast was an amazing story indeed. So you had to pull everything to
   get that cam in and out twice? Aaargh. I have a new Disco and am
   curious about what sort of milage you had on your RR engine when you
   had this worn lifter and lobe problem? What was your oil changing
   pattern like. Was the inside pretty clean? I am a 2500 mile changer
   and am just curious about what I can look forward to. I also plan to
   go to synthetic 5-50 at the next change or so. Thanks a lot, John
   Friedman
========================================================================
John, and others;

I bought the RR about 3 months ago for $8,500. A real bargain, right?
Well... As they say, "Caveat emptor". I got it for that price for several
reasons, mainly, the lack of care that was very apparent. But, my desire was
for a capable yet comfortable trail vehicle. The lack of wax, dry (cracking)
leather seats, broken seat switches, torn carpet in the rear seat, cheapie
"Audiovox" CD player, etc... didn't really bother me. My only concern was
the "lifter" noise. I could tell, just by looking in the oil fill hole that
it had NOT been maintained as claimed, and assumed that possibly the lifter
was just plugged up. The RR has (now) 48K on the odometer, but an additional
50K on the vehicle. (Or so the story goes! The speedometer was replaced
around 50K.) So, roughly 100K on a neglected engine. (Trans still looks
good, as does the diff fluid.) All in all, I still think I got a good deal.
I still have less than 10K into her, have added a rear Lock-Right, seat
switch, (still need one) removed the front spoiler and rear spot lights (for
clearance on trails) and don't have to cringe when I run into a bush, or get
dinged from a rock. I'm happier this way! ;-) BTW, this RR had previously
NEVER been off-road. Totally spotless undercarriage, NO rust (Arizona) no
scratches or dings, (just faded, lack of wax.) New tyres.

So, let that be a lesson for us all... FREQUENT OIL CHANGES! And the V8
should last a good, long time. Neglect her, and you'll most definitely
regret it!

To me, the 5-50 sounds like quite a large range. I'm no oil expert, but the
more the "range", the more "thingies" (told you I'm no expert) that they
have to add to allow it to do this, and the more "thingies", the quicker the
oil breaks down. I'd rather see someone go with 20-50 rather than 5-50. I
live in Phoenix (78 degrees today) where it's very mild, and I use straight
30 or 40. Maybe this isn't the best, and if not, someone please educate me.

I have 2 cases of "Golden Spectrol" 20W50 motorcycle oil that I'm going to
start using at my next oil change (Synthetic). Any comments on this? Please?

So, everyone... change your oil!! OFTEN!!!

#=======#          ________           We make a living by what we get,
|__|__|__\___     /__/__|__\___        we make a life by what we give.
| _|  |   |_ |}   \_/-\_|__/-\_|}
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                       Winston Churchill

------------------------------

From: Mike Dryfoos <mikedr@microsoft.com>
Subject: oil warning light vs. pressure gauge
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 11:10:44 -0800

A question on my '71 SIIA.  Is it better to believe my oil pressure warning 
light or my oil pressure gauge?

The oil pressure warning light is coming on at idle.  The oil pressure gauge 
installed by the previous owner, and it reads around 28-30 psi at idle.  The 
light goes out when I increase revs to the point that the gauge reads 40 
psi.  Idle speed is smooth and normal.  The gauge reads 50-60 psi when 
moving.  The crankcase is full, and the oil was changed about 300 miles ago. 
 Earlier this year I would see the warning light come on when the gauge read 
about 20 psi or below, 

I feel reasonably comfortable that the gauge is accurate.  What would be 
causing the sensor that triggers the light to object to 30 psi at idle?  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 23:30:11 +0000
From: Kevan Shaw Lighting Design <postmaster@krshaw.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Oil everywhere but in the sump!

I have an '82  88" diesel which runs fine except it has a habit of chucking
lots of oil out the breather on the rocker cover, particularly on long
runs. The local Land-Rover Gurus keep winding tape round the breather cap
to no avail. The problem is longstanding, i.e. ever since I have owned the
thing, the engine runs well, starts well and only  shows a very little
smoke at the oil filler, so I guess there is a bit of blow-by at the
piston rings however it was recently compression tested and pronounced
within operating limits.  Anyone any ideas as to what could be a cure?

Thanks,  Kevan Shaw

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 17:50:35 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Results of new cam in the Range Rover.

Thanks Dave for telling us all about this -- it might save us a lot of 
effort in the future!

Much appreciated

John Brabyn
89RR
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 10:03:59 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Re: Horror story

OK all you oil gurus out there, here are some slippery questions (ha ha):

Is synthetic oil worth the extra money? 
Is it worth it in an old and slightly tired motor?
Is it OK to use in a new motor?

Regarding non synthetics, how do you pick a "good" oil? They seem to vary 
enormously in cost but all claim to exceed all known specifications.

Cheers.

====================================================================
                                      _____________________
                                     /_____________________\
Tony Yates                          |                       |
                                    |                       |
Port Hedland                     _  | _________ _ _________ |  _
Western Australia               |-| |[_________] [_________]| |-|
                                |_|  -----------------------  |_|
                                   \|  \ =============== /  |/
A.Yates@bom.gov.au                   =======================
                                    |o  _ |===========| _  o| 
Opinions expressed                 /|  (_)|===========|(_)  |\
here are almost but                ||o____|===========|____o||
not quite entirely                 ||________[PAMELA]_______||
unlike those of the                \[_______________________]/
Bureau of Meteorology.              |\|/|---\_/---------|\|/|
                                    |\|/|               |\|/|
                                    -----               -----
=====================================================================
                    

------------------------------

From: a-robw@microsoft.com
Subject: RE: Hi-Lift and Disco 
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 18:15:34 -0800

Yea, that thought crossed my mind, too. What would be neat would be a strap 
or bracket or something that you could attach to the tire so you could just 
jack up the tire, sort of like what a tow truck uses, maybe. Another idea, 
I've heard of is to replace the plastic trim piece under the doors with a 
steel square tube and jack from the side.

----------
From: 	christian (c.j.) szpilfogel[SMTP:chrisz@bnr.ca]
Sent: 	Monday, December 04, 1995 6:29 AM
Subject: 	Hi-Lift and Disco 

Bob Watson writes...
>neat! I put a shakle adapter in the receiver hitch and used it to  jack the 

>back of the Disco up, and the Hi-lift was up about 3-feet before the rear 
>wheel's got off the ground.
This seems to be a problem. One of the ways I used to use the Hi-lift on
an old CJ was to raise the wheels stuck in the mud and push the vehicle
off of the jack and onto a non-hole.

The largest Hi-lift I've seen is a 4' so 1 foot of clearance doesn't look 
like
it leaves enough room to pull my old trick.

Cheers,

  -Christian
--------------
Christian Szpilfogel
'95 Discovery
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 21:53:13 -0500
Subject: Re: oil warning light vs. pressure gauge

I'd replace the sender, or find another gague you can temporailly plumb in
place of the sender and go with the majority vote.

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 21:52:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Series II Trivia (Valuable Knowledge)

Here is the collective wisdom and my analysis of the responses to:
>What are 4 standard features and 1 option which differentiate a 1958-60
>Series II from the later Series IIA, and are can be seen without lifting the
>hood (bonnet)?

LR transitioned from the Series II to the IIA spec through ‘61 until the
announcement of the IIA with the 2.25 diesel and significant changes to 2.25
petrol in late ‘61, so ‘61’s with mixed features are seen.

II exclusives
-Valence panel between front bumper and grille - square rather than rounded
on IIA & III (Duncan Brown).
-Horn button on stalk, changed to steering wheel center in mid ‘60 (Duncan
Brown).
-One piece front doors - some but not all II SW’s and hardtops. I’m only
aware of on ‘58 and ‘59, both 88” and 109” (Duncan Brown, Jeremy Bartlett).
-Ventilator hinges on bulkhead - attached to lids with bolts rather than
rivets.
-Ventilator controls - knobs rather than levers, changed to levers in mid
‘60.
-Inspection cover over transmission in front floor. Access panel which swings
away. Used ‘58 -’60.
-Vehicle (chassis) number - on right front spring horn and plate on bulkhead.
Series II first digit is 1, and no suffix letter. Fourth digit is last digit
of year. Series IIA first digit is 2, have suffix letter A thru H, and no
year indicator. (Ben Smith).
-Optional flashers (turn signals) switch - lever on dash acc. panel for II’s
with horn button on stalk.

Definitive info not avail.
-Pendent steering arms (located on top of swivel balls)- claimed by several
sources to be II exclusive, but  listed in Series IIA parts book (Duncan
Brown, Ben Smith).
-Taillights -various Lucas, Wipac and Sparto used. Parts book indicates
change with suffix B on non-NADA, don’t know when changed in NADA.

Not II exclusives
-Headlights with chrome rims - used in North America through ‘67, dropped in
‘63 or so elsewhere with suffix B. This often confuses trans-Atlantic
visitors and owners of recent imports.
-Exhaust system exits through left front wheelhouse - used on diesels thru
‘75, also on 6 cyl.
-Door locks with external pawl and lock cylinder attached to handle - used on
early IIA’s through ‘64?
-IIA diesel have diesel badge on grille. II & IIA petrol don’t have badge.
-Prongs welded to rear corner cappings - used through at least ‘68 according
to parts book.

I’ll be glad to discuss above with anyone, and will appreciate any additional
info. Remember that parts get mixed over time.

David Cockey

1960 II 88” SW
1960 II 88” PU (nee hardtop)
8/10 of 1959 II 88" SW

------------------------------

From: rmodica@east.pima.edu
Date: Mon, 04 Dec 1995 20:19:24 MST
Subject: Xmas Rovers

Well, well, well.  And I thought I was the only Crazy in the bunch. My front
yard has my 109 outlined in 600 white lights with a lighted Santa in the
driver's seat.  We thought about doing it last year, but figured the neigbors
would think us daft.  (With three Land Rovers they prbably already do.) As soon
as the lights came on several neighbors expressed delight.  John's set up
sounds like he can drive around all lit up.  That should be something to see.

On the serious side--.  Last week I disconnected the battery cables in my Disco
to clean off corrosion.  Upon replacing the cables the radio needed rearming as
expected (leave key on for one hour and reenter code), but the SRS light came
on and the right hand S of the SRS blinks for a moment and then remains lit
--as does the entire SRS display. Called the nearest dealer in Scottsdale (110
miles N) and asked for advice.  Their reply - "Come up and have us connect you
to our CDROM analyzer." "Can't you give me a hint over the phone?"  "No, we have
to connect you to the computer."  "what about the black box codes?"  "The
Discos don't have a readout like the D-90s, come to our computer."  Anyone have
any ideas what's happened to my SRS?

Rob Modica		1951 SI 80"	1960 SII109" Safari
Tucson, AZ		1994 Disco 5spd "Casper"
e-mail		rmodica@east.pima.edu
snail mail	6425 E. Hayne St.  Tucson AZ 85710-4638
 

------------------------------

From: a-robw@microsoft.com
Subject: RE: Xmas Rovers/Blinky SRS lights
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 20:04:09 -0800

On the serious side--.  Last week I disconnected the battery cables in my 
Disco
to clean off corrosion.  Upon replacing the cables the radio needed rearming 
as
expected (leave key on for one hour and reenter code), but the SRS light 
came
on and the right hand S of the SRS blinks for a moment and then remains lit
--as does the entire SRS display. Called the nearest dealer in Scottsdale 
(110
miles N) and asked for advice.  Their reply - "Come up and have us connect 
you
to our CDROM analyzer." "Can't you give me a hint over the phone?"  "No, we 
have
to connect you to the computer."  "what about the black box codes?"  "The
Discos don't have a readout like the D-90s, come to our computer."  Anyone 
have
any ideas what's happened to my SRS?
---------
For fear of this, or other strange things, happening to mine when I've ben 
working on the electrical stuff, I've always jumpered the battery to the 
electrical buss while fiddling with the wires so that the battery is always 
connected to the myriad of on-board computers. Let us know what you find 
out. I hope it's nothing serious. Does the (is there a) display under the 
passenger seat say anything?

 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 20:48:25 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Discovery racks

I've got the "expedition" rack, which is exactly like the one in the "La Ruta 
Maya" video tape LRNA was (is?) mailing out to new owners.  It mounts on the 
rain channel so there is no increase in the amount of weight you can carry.
I too 
noticed the amount of stuff that it appeared the Camel Trophy Discoveries 
carried.  We're probably right to assume that they can do this because the 
racks are mounted to the roll cages.  One thing to consider too is that 
putting a lot of weight on the roof may alter the handling of the vehicle 
enough to be dangerous.

By the way, I got my rack at a Land Rover dealership.  Word to the wise: I 
called around to the local dealerships to get the best price.  The prices I
was quoted varied by over $200. (!)

Cheers!
John
'95 Discovery

At 10:11 04.12.95 -0500, GElam30092@aol.com wrote:
>There are several ads. for racks (full-length, half-length) for the Discovery
>in the LRO and LRW.  Has anyone purchased an after-market product?  What is
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)]
>vehicle verify?
>Gerry "He's ain't heavy... he's my brother" Elam

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Dec 95 22:06:43 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Help selecting a CB radio.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Help selecting a CB radio.
I need to get a CB radio for trail runs, and need help selecting one that
best suits my needs. I know NOTHING (well, very little anyway) about them. I
only need it for talking to other trail members, and plan to use a 2-meter
radio for longer distance (once I get my licence).

Should I go with the basic $50 cobra small size, basic functions, or the
larger size that has various functions for around $120? Should I get a power
mike?

Which antenna should I get? Any mounting locations or suggestions?

They will be used mostly in a 1987 Range Rover, but may be used in a 1971
Land Rover as well.

Thanks, Dave Brown   debrown@srp.gov

#=======#          ________           We make a living by what we get,
|__|__|__\___     /__/__|__\___        we make a life by what we give.
| _|  |   |_ |}   \_/-\_|__/-\_|}
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                       Winston Churchill

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re:Oil.FAQ
Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 15:50:13 +1030 (CST)

Tony asks something we've all pondered:
> Is synthetic oil worth the extra money? 
> Is it worth it in an old and slightly tired motor?
> Is it OK to use in a new motor?
> > Regarding non synthetics, how do you pick a "good" oil? They seem to vary 
> enormously in cost but all claim to exceed all known specifications.

Tony the best I can suggest is to read Ed Hackett's oil.faq  
found guess where :-)  

http://www.ridgecrest.ca.us/RoverWeb/OilFAQ.html

Thanks to Dixon and Ben for including one.

There is other predominantly commercial oil stuff kicking around, but Ed's
seems to explain in language even I can understand.......
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 22:14:48 -0700
From: rlarson@lsil.com (Rick Larson)
Subject: Re: Discovery racks

>From the Saftey Devices Catalog:

Discovery 5 Door

The five door Discovery superseded the three door as the
main vehicle for the Camel Trophy.  Consequently the five
door version of the Discovery roll cage has been developed,
providing full protection of the occupants but allowing
access through the rear doors.

The cage is similar to the two door, with backstays moved from
the conventional position to run horizontally to the
'D' posts at the rear of the vehicle to allow maximum load
space.

Once again, the cage is phosphated and black polyester coated.
It is necessary to specify if a Camel Trophy roof rack is to
be used as this bolts to the cage through the vehicle roof.
                ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

A diagonal brace can be added to the main hoop for Police
specification or extreme off-road conditions.

-Rick

At  8:48 PM 12/4/95 -0800, John C. White, III wrote:
>I've got the "expedition" rack, which is exactly like the one in the "La Ruta
>Maya" video tape LRNA was (is?) mailing out to new owners.  It mounts on the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 32 lines)]
>>vehicle verify?
>>Gerry "He's ain't heavy... he's my brother" Elam

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 22:45:46 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: RE: Xmas Rovers/Blinky SRS lights

According to the shop manual "In the event of a fault in the system the
warning light will illuminate and begin modulating.  The airbag diagnostic
control unint logs the fault which can only be accessed using TestBook."
(TestBook is a portable computer used by the mechanics.  The drawing of it
has what appears to be an ejected CD-ROM.)  There is no indication anywhere
that I can find about what might be wrong.  I do notice however that there
are a lot of warnings throughout this chapter.  One reads, "Do not use
electrical test equipment on the airbag harness or connectors.  Tampering
with or disconnecting the harness could result in accidental firing of the
airbag or make the system inoperative, which may result in serious injury."
The very next sentence reads in bold print, "An airbag system fault can only
be diagnosed using TestBook."

Looks like there's a trip to Scottsdale in your future.

Sorry.
John

At 20:04 04.12.95 -0800, a-robw@microsoft.com wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>On the serious side--.  Last week I disconnected the battery cables in my 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 35 lines)]
>out. I hope it's nothing serious. Does the (is there a) display under the 
>passenger seat say anything?

------------------------------

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