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Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 00:33:31 -0800
From: rover@europa.com (Brad Krohn/Deborah Shannon)
Subject: alternators

Sorry for the delay in responding, but here's some data on alternators from
a handy little booklet called "Lucas Fault Diagnosis Service Manual" - a
freebie given out to registrants at the '94 All-British Field Meet in
Portland, Oregon <US>.

The 4TR voltage regulator appears to be fairly standard and the local parts
store threw one in when he sold me a brand new-in-the-box 11AC that was, as
was stated, an original option on late IIAs.

The AC alternators require external regulator. The ACRs are integrated.
Maximum outputs are listed as such:

10AC	35A
11AC	45A
11AC*	60A (*25380, 23633 - numbers similar to those on the yoke of mine)
15ACR	28A
16ACR	34A
17ACR	36A
17ACR*	25A (*derated)
18ACR	43A
20ACR	66A

There is no mention of a 15AC (with no R).

This handy little tome has testing procedures, other values, etc. Don't know
if it's still available. The date on this one was 2/94. It says "Catalog No.
9001" and comes/came from Lucas Aftermarket Operations, Lucas Industries
Inc. Troy Michigan  <Printed in USA>.

BTW, I still haven't had time to replace my C40 genny with the 11AC, so all
data is as Joe stated it (not necessarily reality!).

Cheers.
Brad

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: 60000km service question
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 09:04:57 +0100 (MET)

Hello Rovers!
I just did the first part of the 60000km inspection on my 110 (yes it's that new ;-)
and have some questions on the things still to do.
* Adjusting the valve play: The manual just states to adjust it on the fully open
valve. How do I get them open one after the other? (Stupid beginners question???)
Do I need to replace any gaskets if I adjust the valves?
* Still leaky center diff: I checked the breather as Kurt sugested and it
was not blocked at all, nor was it loose as I suspected. Still any ideas why
the oil get's out of the case? The area around the breather was absolutely clean.
(Maybe I'll should postpone this 'till it's summer again).

And now a little story that may save you some bucks:
When I got to local autoparts store a month ago to buy an oilfilter, they just told me:
sorry, we don't have them for Land Rovers. So I got one from a Brit. autoparts dealer
for 16.-DM (~10.70US$) and went back to the first store this saturday, just for
curiosity. I showed the filter to the guy at the counter and asked, if they had such 
a thing. He looked at it for a moment and said:' Looks like the Volkswagen Golf (Rabbit 
in the US) filter'. It was exactly the same size and I bought it for 10.-DM.

Happy rovering
Franz

PS. I've a pretty new Michelin sand tyre (7.50 R16) lying around which I don't need. 
Anybody interested ?
-- 
Franz Parzefall			 tbr1102@hpmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]           exmil. 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__.._
                                  

------------------------------

From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 10:00:07 +0000
Subject: Re: How Are RR's Like To Work On?

John asks:

>1.  How are RR's to work on?

I find them mechanically just as easy to work on as Series vehicles.
But then I have an early one, before they were tarted up for the
poseurs.  Even so I find looking after the furnishings more
challenging than the mechanical bits.  My RR rides a lot better than
my old leafer, but is otherwise quite similar, and definitely has
character.  The V8 is wonderful.

Having said that I have the MOT on Wednesday.......
--
Best Regards,
Steve.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 11:12:33 +0001
From: wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy Wassili)
Subject: Re: 60000km service question

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>Hello Rovers!
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Hello Rovers!
>I just did the first part of the 60000km inspection on my 110 (yes it's
that new ;-)
>and have some questions on the things still to do.
>* Adjusting the valve play: The manual just states to adjust it on the
fully open
>valve. How do I get them open one after the other? (Stupid beginners
question???)
>Do I need to replace any gaskets if I adjust the valves?
>* Still leaky center diff: I checked the breather as Kurt sugested and it
>was not blocked at all, nor was it loose as I suspected. Still any ideas why
>the oil get's out of the case? The area around the breather was absolutely
clean.
>(Maybe I'll should postpone this 'till it's summer again).
>And now a little story that may save you some bucks:
>When I got to local autoparts store a month ago to buy an oilfilter, they
just told me:
>sorry, we don't have them for Land Rovers. So I got one from a Brit.
autoparts dealer
>for 16.-DM (~10.70US$) and went back to the first store this saturday, just for
>curiosity. I showed the filter to the guy at the counter and asked, if they
had such 
>a thing. He looked at it for a moment and said:' Looks like the Volkswagen
Golf (Rabbit 
>in the US) filter'. It was exactly the same size and I bought it for 10.-DM.
>Happy rovering
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>Franz
>PS. I've a pretty new Michelin sand tyre (7.50 R16) lying around which I
don't need. 
>Anybody interested ?
>-- 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>      [_-__|__|_-]           exmil. 110 2.5D
> ___.._(0)..._.(0)__.._

Franz,

At the time I drove around in a LandCruiser 2.5 TD I had the small services
done ( every 5000 km!) by a specialized shop( Kwikfit ) for these matters.
Wich ment changing the oil and oilfilter. Since they always had problems
ordering an oilfilter  I had them only change the oil and had the filter
changed every 10.000 km according to the manual through the Toyota dealer. 

Well, the guy from Kwikfit told me that oilfilters for turbocharged engines
do have valves in the filterhousing( has something to do with oilpressure !?
) and are not exchangable with oilfilters for non-turbocharged engines.

So make sure that the Volkswagen oilfilter *is exactly* the same as the LR
oilfilter.

LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR
                ____
      |   _____/|__||   Roy Wassili,<wassili@amc.uva.nl>
      |  /(-8|  \   |   Avalon Green '95 Discovery, VG-XH-66
  ____|_/[]__|__\___|#  scarved for live
 |] __=|     |  __  |#
[|_/  \|_____|_/  \_|]
  ( o )        ( o )

------------------------------

Subject: Re: 60000km service question 
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 02:22:24 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <199511270924.EAA08116@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote:

> I just did the first part of the 60000km inspection on my 110 (yes it's that 
> new ;-) and have some questions on the things still to do.
> * Adjusting the valve play: The manual just states to adjust it on the fully 
>   open valve. How do I get them open one after the other? 

	There are two basic ways to do this.  On Rovers that have handcranks
you just use the crank to rotate the engine to the correct position.  The other
way is to park the Rover on a flat section of ground an put into a high
gear (like 4th or 5th).  Take the emergency brake off.  Then by gently pushing
or rocking the vehicle the the engaged drivetrain will rotate the engine.  It
doesn't take much motion to do this.  On my SIII I can adjust all 8 valves 
with only 2 or so total feet of ground motion by my Rover.   This may be
a lot more difficult with a diesel due to the high compression ratio.  On
a petrol engine you can remove the sparkplugs so that there is no compression
in the cylinders.  I haven't seen a diesel upclose, but don't they have 
glow plugs mounted in a similar fashion? 

	Assuming that the 2.5Diesel isn't radically different from other engines
that I've worked on, usually when the manunal says to ajust on fully open
valves, you open a certain valve and adjust the clearance on a different one. 
When a valve is completely open, a rocker arm has pushed down on the top of
the valve stem and compressed the spring.  You certainly aren't going to 
adjust the clearance on that valve, but due to the timing of engines, when
one valve is completely open, on of the valves for another cylinder should be
completely closed.  That is the one that you adjust.   On the 2.25 petrol
engine the valves are adjusted in pairs.  1 & 8, 2 & 7, 3 & 6, 4 & 5.  So
with #1 open you adjust #8 and with #8 open you adjust #1.  The manual should
list the appropriate pairs.

> Do I need to replace any gaskets if I adjust the valves?

	Usually your replace the valve cover gasket(s).  With the 2.25 L 
engine you can get away with reusing the valve cover gaskets a few times. 
I don't know about the 2.5D.  Gaskets are ususally relativly cheep.

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

From: Stuart Williams <STUARTW@po1.net.cho.ge.com>
Subject: Disco 15K Service
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 08:03:00 EST

Disco Owners :

I just had the 15K service done on my '95 Discovery at our dealer in 
Richmond VA.  Total charge including parts, fluids, and tax was $194.15. 
 The dealer gave me a loaner for the day and gave the Disco a much needed 
wash job.

As always, your mileage may vary!

FYI

Stuart Williams
Charlottesville, Virginia
'95 Discovery V8i  "Great White"
'85 LandCruiser  "Old Paint"

------------------------------

From: Stuart Williams <STUARTW@po1.net.cho.ge.com>
Subject: Disco Throttle Problem - FAQ Candidate!
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 08:11:00 EST

All,

I recently developed a problem with my '95 Disco (the first real problem in 
14K miles) that required dealer intervention.  The problem was a brief 
engine stumble or cutout whenever the throttle was eased after cresting 
gentle hills or when running on flat terrain at 70 MPH or so.  It happened 
with or without the cruise control operating, and with or without the OD 
engaged.  The engine would immediately resume normal operation, but the 
vehicle would lurch noticeably as everything caught back up with itself. 
 Duncan Brown tells me that this is normal behavior for his 1960 Series IIa, 
but I was not thrilled with it happening to my Disco given the upcoming 
holiday weekend and some planned travels around the mid-Atlantic.

At first I thought that it might have been transmission slippage or OD 
problems but the RPMs would actually visibly drop on the tachometer during 
the infrequent longer incidents, so I had visions of new Engine Control 
Computers and other Lucas bits dancing in my head.  The dealer's first 
suspicion was the fuel pump, so they set up a pressure gauge and took the 
vehicle on the road but could never see any drops in pressure during the 
fairly easy to duplicate stumbles.  Next they attached a diagnostic monitor 
to the ECC and sent two technicians on the road, one driving and one riding 
shotgun on the monitor, to see what they could see.  Sure enough, the signal 
from the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor, Roverese for potentiometer) was 
intermittent under certain conditions and was momentarily sending signals to 
the ECC that caused the engine to fall back to idle, albeit briefly.  They 
say that this sort of thing should have caused the 'Check Engine' light to 
come on, and it probably was, but things corrected themselves so fast that 
the dashboard light was never observed.  Maybe a latching circuit would be 
helpful here, although that might be a double-edged sword given everything 
that's wired to that indicator!  Anyway, they replaced the TPS under 
warranty and we're back on the road, better than ever.  Kudos to Drew, the 
technician at Land Rover Richmond that found the problem.

For the life of me I can't imagine why the Throttle Position Sensor might 
have worn out  ;^) !!!

FYI

Stuart Williams
Charlottesville, Virginia
'95 Disco V8i "Great White"
'85 LandCruiser "Old Paint" 

------------------------------

Date: 27 Nov 95 08:21:55 EST
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Range Rover front propshafts

> that the front driveshaft yokes are not meant to line up (at least for a 110)

 ...and Jim Roth who had technical problems to reply directly to the list
asked my to forward the following:

                ------------- Forwarded message ----------
Date:  26-Nov-95 18:14 CET
From:  Jim Roth [74245,1226]
Subj:  Rover Drive Shaft

I saw your reply to this question on the LRO.  You might be interested to know
that the Rover manual addresses this specifically and the joints are, indeed,
supposed to "off" a little for the front drive shaft. I'll quote "The front
shaft which is shorter than the rear is 'Phased' with the joints at each
end...mis-aligned as shown (in picture).... This phasing is necessary on the
front shaft only to allow for greater variation in angular changes." The picture
shows the mis-alignment as well as the matching arrows. I notice a little
vibration in my vehicle around 35mph (60kph) and I suspect it's due to this. I
own a Discovery, but the drive line is supposed to be the same. The rears are
lined up as you said. Please pass this on.
              ----------- End of forwarded message ----------

I don't have a 90 or 110 manual at hand right now, but first let me point out
that RR and Defender propshafts are 'something completely different'
(the price difference has to be justified by something, after all).
Having said that, hold on a sec while I check out the facts...  RR workshop
manual says... nothing, except that the alignment markings should be
observed.  So, I'm out into the cold to look underneath the beast...   back
again (~shiver~).  The front propshaft yokes are - (suspense) - NOTALIGNED .
So, I guess I'll have to regress on that one.  OTOH I wouldn't want to rule
out that there are RRs out there with *aligned* yokes.  The infinite wisdom
of Solihul engineers is unfathomable, and what is true for one model may be
reversed on the next.  Your best bet would be a) to observe the alignment
marks at the sliding joints, b) *never* to mix parts from different
propshafts.  After all, YP(ropsh...) - oh, forget it...

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

From: Stuart Williams <STUARTW@po1.net.cho.ge.com>
Subject: Spastic Turn Signals On Discovery
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 08:48:00 EST

I saw Mark Kraieski's LRO posting about a spastic rear bumper-mounted turn 
signal (one not working and the rest of the turn signals blinking fast).  I 
know that this problem has been in the LRO digest several times but I can't 
recall that anyone has ever posted the solution(s) for it.   We own a '95 
Disco with 14K miles that developed the same problem in the right rear turn 
signal a couple of months ago.  I called our dealer in Richmond VA (75 miles 
away) thinking that the bulb was burned out and maybe I could buy a local 
replacement and save the trip down the highway.  They informed me that this 
was a known problem (there is a Service Bulletin, I believe) and advised me 
of the short and long term fixes :

Short Term : Remove the bulb holder from the back of the signal housing by 
turning it gently approximately 1/8 turn.  Remove the bulb from the holder. 
 With a small screwdriver, *gently* pry up on the small tab that provides 
the spring force that maintains electrical contact between the bulb and the 
housing.  Re-insert the bulb into the holder and then re-insert the holder 
into the housing.  Voila.  The signals worked like a champ after that, but 
metal fatigue is a wonderful thing and this is destined to be only a short 
term fix.

Long Term : Replacement of the bulb holders by your dealer with new and 
improved parts.  I had both of mine proactively replaced under warranty 
during a recent service visit.

FYI

Stuart Williams
'95 Discovery V8i "Great White"
'85 Land Cruiser "Old Paint"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 06:08:31 -0800
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Colored Wire

In message <199511242357.SAA05278@butler.uk.stratus.com> Robert Dennis writes:
>  This reminded me, does anyone know of a source for multicolored wire? I know
; lots of sources for single color wire, but none that has a colored tracer.
> Preferably in the US.
;
Rob
British Pacific in California carries all the standard Lucas coloured wires, and
connectors.  They also carry complete new wiring harness for Land Rovers

TeriAnn
Currently In Stockholm
              
                         
                       

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 08:07:27 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Re: Lawrence in surgery.

On Thu, 23 Nov 1995, Soren Vels Christensen wrote:
> Well, only one way to go. I drove the car to a DIY garage and my brother and
>                                                ^^^^^^^^^^
> i fired up the grinder and welded on two outriggers holding the front of the

tell me how a DIY garage works.  i thought of this as something
for my second career.  i would own the garage and lots of major
tools and i would rent the space/tools to people who want to
work on their cars/trucks out of the weather.  i never figured
out how the tool theft and liability insurance angles would
work out.  to me, it would be an ideal job.  just setting around
the garage talking cars and shop with all the local-yokels and
getting paid for it.

ray harder (siia 88 (lulu))

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 08:45:17 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Re: Headliner, EFI, Help!

On Fri, 24 Nov 1995, Randall B. Thomas wrote:
> It seems that the headliner in my 67 88" IIA "Chipper" has faired
> considerably better in it's 28 years than the one on my wifes beloved 88
> Range Rover "Shredder".   It appears the glue that holds the fabric to the
> molded piece has now completely failed leaving me with the following:

 no private email on this one -- reply to the list.  my 87 rr
has a headliner that is asl starting to fail and i am worried (when
i look at it and think about it).  my thoughts so far have been:
-- take it to an upholstry shop...
-- call one of the headliner guys that advertise in the paper and
   do their thing "in your parking lot..."
-- cut a small slit and spray some 3m stuff there.
-- no other ideas.  i don't want to even consider removing
   the headliner -- this is an rr
i don't think about it very often, but if someone posted the solution,
i could completely ignore it for awhile...:)

ray harder (siia 88 (lulu) and 87 rr)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 23:49:58 +0900
From: gnome@st.rim.or.jp (Shunichi Nishi)

unsubscribe land-rover-owner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 09:45:06 -0400
From: jim@kidd.com (jnk)
Subject: CAMEL TROPHY '95

The Mundo Maya will be on ESPN Tuesday, November 28, 1995 at 1:30 a.m. and
5:00 p.m.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 10:52:32 -0500
From: Tim McDaniel <mcdaniel@adra.com>
Subject: Picking up a rolling chassis...

        Hello all,

        I'm looking for an opinion or help on a 88" series rolling chassis that 
        I'm thinking of buying for parts.  The cost is $200 and the chassis is 
        a Series IIa.  Here's what I get:

                2.25 l engine.  Turns and was running within the last few
                years.  Zenith carb.

                Transfer case.

                5 16 inch rims

                Heater that works.  Big unit with fan attached to the
                core housing.  Does anyone know if this is a Kodiak?  If
                it is, has anyone put one of these into a Series III?

                Front and rear running gear diffs/axles etc.

                Two new front horn assemblies

                Two new main front leafs

                Rear station wagon door

                One front door

                Radiator panel.
                
                Tropical roof with sun sheet.  Question:  Will this bolt
                right on to a Series III station wagon in place of the 
                existing hardtop?

                Dash with guages.

                The chassis itself is repairable.                

                No other body parts interior or exterior.

        I think it's OK for $200 and I'm going to pick it up.  I would like 
        to sell off (cheap) any parts that I don't need.  Specifically, the 
        radiator panel, doors, the chassis itself, left horn assembly, and 
        possibly the transmission.  Miscellaneous switches, steering wheel,
        etc.

        If you have any interest or comments in the above or you can answer
        the question about the heater or roof, please let me know.

                                Thanks,

                                        Tim

    +----------------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Tim McDaniel                               (508) 937-3700 ext. 725   |
    | Adra Systems, Inc.                         (508) 453-2462 (FAX)      |
    | 2 Executive Drive                                                    |
    | Chelmsford, MA  01824                      mcdaniel@adra.com         |
    | USA                                                                  |
    +----------------------------------------------------------------------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 10:09:01 -0600 (CST)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Re: Wanted: good used 88" frame

On Sun, 26 Nov 1995, Tim Harincar wrote:
> Subject: Wanted: good used 88" frame
tim, sorry to hear about your problems.  i live in mid-missouri
which is about 600 miles from you (maybe)...  i have a frame
and bulkhead, but...

-- the frame -- it is under roof now.  i had planned to use it
   but...  the PO had done some pretty rough driving and there
   are dents in a couple of the outriggers.  the engine and tx
   crossmembers are dented -- this is not necessarily a problem as
   lots of daily drivers have this problem, it just is a problem
   if you are a perfectionist.  the rear crossmember has minor
   rust, but i was planning to patch it and strengthen it as it 
   is minor. my plan (i have a mig welder and expertise), but no 
   time, was to straighten the outriggers, patch the rear member, 
   weld in replacement cross members (which i have) and have the 
   whole thing galvanized.  it is a good frame, but has the above flaws.
   and yes, most of the paint is still off -- although some is still
   present.
   maybe you could come down and we could do the repairs together
   in my driveway...

-- the bulkhead -- it is off a 69 (the frame, too) and has been
   sandblasted and galvanized.  it is in perfect condition.  a
   couple of holes would need to be drilled to mount the ww motors
   but i think that is all.

i don't think i could let them go for $800 -- i think the bulkhead
is worth close to that, but i could work with you.  let me know
if you are interested.  i need to go look again real closely at the 
frame before you drive down -- don't want any surprises but i think
the above description is accurate.  i was planning on reusing it and
thats the way i remember things.

if this sounds interesting, lets talk.  i have a few other parts --
maybe you have some i want.  good luck on your project.  a posting
today someone was bragging they did a frame-over in 6 long days.

------------------------------

From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 16:03:54 GMT
Subject: Re: One man Brake Bleeder

Hi

Yep, I've used the Gunson gadget, although mine was the cheaper version which 
only consisted of the tube with the one way valve (i.e. it didn't have the
 facility for connecting to the tyre valve).  It wrked great.  However, when
 several months later I came to use it again the tube had clouded up so it was
 then impossible to see if bubbles were present.  I don't know if there are any
 storage instructions or why the tube clouded over.

Cheers, Ian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 08:11:29 -0800
From: cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us (Christopher Boese)
Subject: Re: LR D110 + other comments

Ted Wei asks:

>2. The body panel fit on the Disco is not even comparable to my late model
audi or girlfriend's Infiniti, any comments?

That's something I noticed long before I began looking seriously at Land
Rovers. It may have everything to do with the panels being made of aluminum,
it may have nothing to do with it. Look at other, especially American
trucks, though. Their panel fit isn't any better.

>3. what type of gas mileage are people getting?

Always 14. Ted, have you taken your Discovery off-road yet? At least while
you're out there, you'll forget all the niggling little problems.

Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office
'95 beluga black Discovery

------------------------------

From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: 60000km service question
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 16:21:41 +0100 (MET)

Roy Wassili writes:
> Well, the guy from Kwikfit told me that oilfilters for turbocharged engines
> do have valves in the filterhousing( has something to do with oilpressure !?
> ) and are not exchangable with oilfilters for non-turbocharged engines.
> So make sure that the Volkswagen oilfilter *is exactly* the same as the LR
> oilfilter.        
Hm! I'm pretty sure, that the VW oilfilter is the same, but I'll check it out,
when I come to the autoparts dealer, soon.
Just a guess: The valve in the TD oilfilter may be there to bypass the filter 
at high rpm to get more oilpressure for the turbo. If that is true, I won't
face a problem, since my motor doesn't even know what a turbo charger is.  ;-)

Franz
-- 
Franz Parzefall			 tbr1102@hpmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]           exmil. 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__.._
                                  

------------------------------

From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 16:03:54 GMT
Subject: Re: One man Brake Bleeder

Hi

Yep, I've used the Gunson gadget, although mine was the cheaper version which 
only consisted of the tube with the one way valve (i.e. it didn't have the
 facility for connecting to the tyre valve).  It wrked great.  However, when
 several months later I came to use it again the tube had clouded up so it was
 then impossible to see if bubbles were present.  I don't know if there are any
 storage instructions or why the tube clouded over.

Cheers, Ian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 09:19:00 -0800
From: cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us (Christopher Boese)
Subject: disabled Discovery - the culprit

Last week I wrote about being stranded in the dirt with a Discovery that
wouldn't start. It was obviously some sort of fuel problem; Symes Land Rover
in Pasadena confirmed this. They put their Solihull-trained Range Rover guy
on the case and he discovered that one of the wires to the electric fuel
pump on top of the tank had worked its way loose. It seems someone at the
factory had not pushed it all the way down or failed to clip it on securely;
I couldn't decipher exactly what I was being told without seeing the wires
themselves. BTW, when I looked into the cargo area later, I discovered that
the dealer hadn't correctly reinstalled the carpet and the rubber mat
underneath. There was a big piece of rubber hanging out next to one of the
wheel wells and other bits of carpet were shoved under it. I removed the
sill that holds the carpet and pulled up and reseated everything. I was
annoyed, but I did notice that there's at least one access panel under
there, and that might be the place to check for loose wires in the future.

Symes hasn't yet been able (after three attempts) to fix the creaking I've
been hearing coming from the rear door or thereabouts. This time, they
tightened some of the body mounts, which is something they do at every
service. I was told, "They creak when they're too loose and they creak when
they're too tight." Something still creaks, but off-road I don't notice and
nothing has split open yet so I'll be patient.

Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office
'95 beluga black Discovery

------------------------------

From: a-robw@microsoft.com
Subject: RE: LR D110 + other comments
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 09:32:28 -0800

>1. I'm having some water leaking problems in the passenger rear speaker
>area.  They resealed the alpine windows once before, and it'll go in again
>this week to find the culprit.  Anyone with similar problems?
I had to have the rear door re-aligned to get it to seal correctly across 
the top. I found this out when I drove through a car wash and  water came 
cascading through the top of the read door. The kids thought it was pretty 
funny :-) The dealer fixed this under the warranty. Other than that I 
haven't had any leaks from above or below, since (and I've tested both!)

    _____
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |  _|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU

------------------------------

From: a-robw@microsoft.com
Subject: Re: LR D110 + other comments
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 09:32:27 -0800

| >2. The body panel fit on the Disco is not even comparable to my late 
model
|audi or girlfriend's Infiniti, any comments?

I'd read that the wide "inter-panel" gaps were intentional so as to 
accomodate the flexing that occurs while bouncing around off-road. It would 
seem that this would keep it squeak & rattle free for a longer (i.e. more 
miles) time. While the gaps are wide, they seem to be uniform. My only 
"body" problem was the rear door had to be re-aligned (covered under 
warranty).

|>3. what type of gas mileage are people getting?
16 mpg - freeway (70 mph)
12 mpg - freeway (70 mph towing a 2500 lb trailer)
12 mpg - city
10 mpg - off-road
12.9 mpg overall average since I bought it. ( I do a lot of city driving)

YMMV, of course.

    _____
   /|__|_\__(|                           Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |  _|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 19:23:44 -0600 (CST)
From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: Re: Lawrence in surgery.

In message Mon, 27 Nov 1995 08:07:27 -0600 (CST),
  Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>  writes:

> tell me how a DIY garage works.  i thought of this as something

Where we went the procedure was:
Upon arrival, park the outside the garage to avoid traffic jam in the
building. Go to the store. Register using the cars reg. no. Get a booth no.
and a "credit card" (blank plastic card with dymo numbers on). Take the car
to the booth. The computer at the store is now counting the minutes. I got a
20hr. count twice (buy 20 hrs and save 26,5 percent, valid one week). When
you rent tools or buy bolts etc you show your "credit card". Tools that are
expensive by the hour can of course be handed in and picked up later.
Welding, high pressure cleaning etc. requires you to feed a slot machine.
For example, you get 8 effective minutes welding for dkr10.- (app $1.40).
When you are done you hand in the rest of the tools and get the bill where
you can see everything you have to pay for. If you are not done when closing
you can buy an overnight reservation (same booth) for about $3.50. But if
you leave before closing you will of course have to pay full price until
they close. You always pay when you leave, also if you leave the car for the
night.

> i never figured
> out how the tool theft and liability insurance angles would

With the above mentioned system you always know who has what. I a welder
evaporates, - bad luck for the customer. He should keep an eye on it. As for
liability; if the tools are not in order you would defenitely be out of
business fast. Else, who knows. In Denmark the words "common sense" rules
the courts. In USA...well if you can use a ladder as a car jack and get rich
by hurting yourself...

> the garage talking cars and shop with all the local-yokels and
> getting paid for it.

YES! If you have skills at mingling, you could make each customer describe
their cars from bumper to bumper, tell about all the modifications and
entertain you with it's complete history from when it left the factory. Just
like you do yourself if some poor bastard should happen to comment on Lulu.
Should easily get 10-15 min. extra out of every customer. Except if they are
grinding.

Hope to see you in biz.
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: Susan Dykstra (ArtSource) <a-susdy@microsoft.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 10:33:39 TZ
Subject:  Selling my Defender 90...

^MMessage-ID: red-60-msg951127184044MTP[01.51.00]000000b3-5699

I have a blue 1994 Defender 90 with a safari cage and extra back seat.  
I has 18,000 miles on it and I'm selling it for $27,000.  It's in 
perfect condition.  If you are interested, I'm at   
a-susdy@microsoft.com    - that's Seattle, WA.

------------------------------

From: "Alan Cookson" <acookson@iafrica.com>
Date:          Mon, 27 Nov 1995 21:29:19 +0200
Subject:       Fitting electric fans to series L-Rs

Michael Carradine (cs@crl.com) wrote re fitting fans to series L-Rs:

Michael,

Re. your request for info about fitting electric fans to series L-Rs, 
last week sometime. I fitted a pair of Kenlowe fans to my 69 S11A LWB 
(veteran of a 2 year trip UK to Oz and back) about 20 years ago, and 
they worked fine: cut engine noise and fuel consumption, and engine 
revved easier. Kenlowe kit is still available in the UK, but quite 
pricey now. Installation then was pretty simple, just a few holes to 
drill. Adjustable thermostat unit mounted under bonnet(OK, hood!) next to header 
tank - you set-cut in temperature on a dial. Sensor unit goes inside 
top radiator hose. I fitted an override switch on the dash as well. 

BTW, got any ideas how to keep the doors shut properly (a bungee cord 
across the door tops only lets you open 1 door at a time!) my drivers 
and rear door locks are well worn, and doors pop open onto the last 
catch, under only slight provocation. Can this be adjusted out, or am 
I up for replacements?

Keep cool!

Alan Cookson
(Felix: '76 88 SW)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 11:50:22 PST
From: asmith@BayNetworks.COM (Andrew Smith)
Subject: Re: Disco Throttle Problem - FAQ Candidate!

> From LRO-Owner@uk.stratus.com Mon Nov 27 05:40:07 1995
> From: Stuart Williams <STUARTW@po1.net.cho.ge.com>
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Subject: Disco Throttle Problem - FAQ Candidate!
> Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 08:11:00 EST

Stuart,

> but I was not thrilled with it happening to my Disco given the upcoming 
> holiday weekend and some planned travels around the mid-Atlantic.

Now I hope you didn't exceed that "maximum wading depth" out there 
off the edge of the continental shelf near the Azores .... :-)

Andrew Smith
Palo Alto CA USA
'96 Discovery       (out here on dry land)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 14:15:52 -0600 (CST)
From: Phil Ethier <ethier@freenet.msp.mn.us>
Subject: current LR list?

I have some conflicting reports on where the land-rover-owner mailing list 
is now.  Is this it?

What is the subscribe drill?

Phil Ethier <ethier@freenet.msp.mn.us>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 12:28:22 PST
From: Bennett Leeds <bennett@mv.us.adobe.com>
Subject: Re: extended warranties ...Disco's

> My spouse is adamant about purchasing an extended warranty on our 

> 95 Disco with about 12,000 miles on it. 

>From what I've heard here, I don't blame her.

> Can you buy them thru any dealer?

Yes. You can also buy them from other sources, such as car  
negotiating services. I got mine through Car Club. You need to buy  
them before your existing warranty expires - I've heard the limit is  
you need to have at least 1K miles and 1 month more to go.

> Are there warranties available without the outrageous dealer mark 

> up?

I was quite surprised to find out that dealers were not adding a lot  
onto the price a few months back. In the last month the prices of  
these warranties on Land Rovers have gone through the roof (more than  
doubled!) due to reclassification. At least one dealer I know of has  
absorbed some of the price increase for vehicles purchased from them,  
making them much lower than Car Club, for instance. 

- Bennett

------------------------------

From: Stuart Williams <STUARTW@po1.net.cho.ge.com>
Subject: Re: Disco Throttle Problem - FAQ Candidate!
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 15:52:00 EST

Andrew,

As long as you ordered the optional snorkel for your CD changer this 
shouldn't be a problem!  Talk to the folks at Rovers North, I'm sure that 
Lanny can get you the part number for this key component of the 'SeaRover' 
package...

Stuart
 ----------
> From: asmith
> To: STUARTW; Land-Rover-Owner
> Subject: Re: Disco Throttle Problem - FAQ Candidate!
> Date: Monday, November 27, 1995 11:50AM

> Stuart,
> > but I was not thrilled with it happening to my Disco given the upcoming
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Palo Alto CA USA
> '96 Discovery       (out here on dry land)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 16:01:10 EST
From: add@philabs.research.philips.com (Aninda V. Dasgupta)
Subject: Accessory prices for Discovery '96

I am in the process of negotiating with dealers for purchasing a '96 Discovery.
I looked in the Edmund's guide and even paid Consumer Reports to get the
dealer invoice prices on the base vehicle and all options.  However, prices
on accessories like brush-bars, lamp-guards, fog lamps, etc. are not
available.  I got a dealer to come down to the price I am willing 
to pay, along with the condition that he charge me dealer invoice and NOT
MSRP on the accessories.  But I can't tell if he is indeed charging the 
invoice price.  I will appreciate any help in getting the prices of the 
above accessories. Regards,

-Aninda

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aninda DasGupta
add@philabs.research.philips.com   Ph:(914)945-6071   Fax:(914)945-6552
Philips Labs\n 345 Scarborough Rd\n  Briarcliff Manor\n NY 10510
"Err.., Phillips Petroleum gives you gas; fortunately Phillips Chemical
 makes antacid. Philips is with one "el"; we make lightbulbs, and other shtuff."

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 16:46:18 -0500
From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall Thomas)
Subject: Re: Headliner, EFI, Help!

>> It seems that the headliner in my 67 88" IIA "Chipper" has faired
>> considerably better in it's 28 years than the one on my wifes beloved 88
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
>i could completely ignore it for awhile...:)
>ray harder (siia 88 (lulu) and 87 rr)

Ray,  It's goihg to get worse. much, much worse. Believe me, soon you will
no longer be able to ignore it.   (Feel encouraged yet, or do you need more?)

Cheers, Randall

P.S. No ones replied to this yet, even privately.  Maybe it's just one of
lifes intangibles,  as if the sky were falling.  Perhaps nothing can be done.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 95 08:57:01 EST
From: carley@manly.civeng.unsw.EDU.AU (James Carley - WRL Staff)
Subject: Re:  60000km service question

How I adjust the valve clearances (for constant 4WD 110) is to jack up
one front wheel (with the centre diff unlocked) and engage top gear,
4th in mine (5th in newer ones). You can then turn the wheel to rotate the
engine. I used to remove the glow plugs but don't bother anymore.

For novices with Series vehicles one would need to jack up a rear wheel,
whilst for a viscous coupled RR (diesel) it wouldn't work.

On a previous petrol 4WD (not LR) I was able to use a socket wrench on the
flywheel bolt to rotate the engine for valve setting, but clearance and
diesel compression preclude this on my 110.

James Carley
carley@manly.civeng.unsw.edu.au
'85 110 County 3.9L Isuzu Diesel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 17:39:03 -0500 (EST)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: trivia

Well, I'm back on line - so anyone who has missed the trivia, I apologize 
(I know, I know, you're all so very disappointed)...  well, all this time 
away hasn't helped me come up with lots of mind boggling stuff, but here 
goes:
1. What was the Discovery's code name?
2. How can one distinguish the 6 cyl. 109" from a 4 cyl. 109" by only 
looking at it's exterior (besides the fact it has enough power to 
actually move)? - I'm thinking of one aspect specifically...

OK - there was a fellow named Ted who made mention of 110s possibly being 
available in 1996.  As far as I've learned from every source available, 
the only Defenders that will be available new in the US in 1996 will be 
leftover 1995 model 90 soft and hardtops (though all of those hardtops, I 
believe, are already either paid for or have deposits on them) (speaking, 
of course, about aluminum hardtops)... the earliest we'll be seeing a new
110, if ever (a big *IF*) will be when Defenders are imported 
to meet both exhaust regulations and light truck safety regulations.  In 
other words, don't hold any breaths - especially when one factors in the 
"exclusivity" that was promised to the initial 500 buyers (I believe that 
LRNA used that as a selling point, expecting that the values would 
increase because of the rarity).  If you really do want one, the cheapest 
I've seen recently is one in LROA priced at around $36,000 - with 62K 
miles on it!  If you do the math, that cost the present owner only 5 to 6 
cents per mile - quite possibly the best resale value of any vehicle since 
the Model T!!

Frank Twarog
Burlington, VT

------------------------------

Date: 27 Nov 95 18:45:12 EST
From: "John P. Casteel" <70472.557@compuserve.com>
Subject: Headliner, EFI, Help!

On Fri, 24 Nov 1995  rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net writes...

>... the headliner in my 67 88 IIA has faired
>considerably better in its 28 years than the one on my wifes beloved 88
>Range Rover

Alas, Sir Thomas I share your woes.  Last winter I pulled the headliner from
my 90 RR and tried a repair using 3M s spray headliner adhesive.  It is now
much worse than before.  What I found was that the headliner fabric was
seperating from the underlying foam and not from the molded piece.  

Stupidly, I seperated more of the fabric myself in an effort to spray the 
adhesive in between the seperating pieces.  So now, instead of the two
small areas that were seperating, I have two LARGE areas that are badly in
need of re attaching.  Before giving up I will try again to glue the two fabrics

together but this time I ll use something else.   I hope this keeps you from
making the same errors. 

Mr rthomas continues...

>... BUT! I cannot for the life of me get my hands anywhere near the O2 sensors
to
>unplug and/or plug in the new ones.

There is a special tool for this and I believe that a picture of it is in the
official RR
repair manual.  It s sort of a socket with a line cut into one side so as to fit
the wire 
through.  This socket is then welded onto a handle that comes down and allows
you to unscrew it from below the chasis.  Check with Rovers North and see if
they
have one available.    A flexible open end box wrench tool might work.  I
recently
saw something at Home Depot in the _Husky_ tools department that MIGHT
work.

Cheers,  and let me know if you find anything suitable for the headliner.  I ll
do
likewise.

John Casteel

90 RR    - unnamed
93 Miata  - also unnamed
Beagle and Basset mix     -  named Bailey     ( I hope that the owners never
turn up. ) 

------------------------------

Subject: Re: trivia 
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 16:31:51 -0800
From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil>

In message <199511272239.RAA09804@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote:

> 1. What was the Discovery's code name?

	"Jay".  If you look at the Disco VIN number, the part that indicates
that it is a Disco is a LJ, (RR Classic being LH, The RR mk2 being LP,
Defenders being LD and SIII and Stage I being LB).

> 2. How can one distinguish the 6 cyl. 109" from a 4 cyl. 109" by only 
> looking at it's exterior (besides the fact it has enough power to 
> actually move)? - I'm thinking of one aspect specifically...

	I don't know this one.  Don't they have a modified bulkhead to fit
the engine that can be spied via peeking through the window?

Ben
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88
 Science Applications International Corporation
 Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake

"...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry
 from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere.  He'd drive it up the
 Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..."  --Kevin Archie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 11:05:09 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: test and for sale

Hi all in US:

I think I'd like to sell my LWB HT and get something else.
It's a '63, but with much improved articulation and powertrain.
I'd like to get $14,000 for it.

If you'd like more info, please call 
(908) 949-9537 work.
Thanks
Jan

PS I'm in NJ

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 20:10:45 PST
Subject: Re: 	D90 SW ARRIVES!

Metro West finally got in first two D90 NAS SW's. One Alpine white and one 
Arles Blue! They look (surprise) great! Blue one is number 5 (SW 005/500) and 
white one SW 068/500. No surprises inside. Hoop over driver/pass seats is 
unclad/unpadded and painted grey. Could probably fit padding blankets from 
D110 spare parts bin or use pipe insulation. Small panel fit into center of 
fascia contains three pushbuttons for rear defrost, rear wash and rear wiper. 
Looks like you could order the plastic surround sans the switch insert for 
standard D90s and use it to mount some aux. gauges. I think I'll try this. 
Carpeting, rear jumpseats, upholtery, headliner and plastic side trim panels 
are pure NAS D110. The blue one really looks nice. Well, after 21 years, we 
finally got our beloved Land Rover back! Too bad its going away again!! How 
long this time?

cheerz
Jim- still washing seaweed out from under my D90!

`67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (#457/500)
`95 D90 #1958

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 23:30:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Lawrence in surgery.

Ray asks...

> tell me how a DIY garage works.
................
> work on their cars/trucks out of the weather.  i never figured
> out how the tool theft and liability insurance angles would

When I was in the USAF, all the bases I was stationed at had an "Auto Hobby
Shop" - basically a DIY garage. If you needed tools, you had to sign them
out and they held your drivers license until the tools were returned. No
problem with insurance, being all military and such.

I've only even seen one DIY shop outside of those. I believe that they had
some tools to rent out and you paid for the time you used the facilities.
The shop didn't stay open very long. The insurance costs probably killed it.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 23:41:58 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: British "cuisine"

Alan wrote:
"I have said it before and I will say it again:  The British do not have 
cuisine, they simply have food...."

Several months ago,  Jeff Aronson, the editor of the Rovers North 
newsletter was in town on business.  A couple of the ROAV lads got together 
with him at Reggie's Pub, one of the few establishments locally that might 
pass as a rendition of an English publick house.  Jeff ordered 'shepherd's 
pie' and when it arrived, pronounced it "...absolutely devoid of flavor.  
It's *perfect*!  Just like home!"  (His parents had emigrated from the UK.)  
At least they had Bass, Watney's and Courage on tap!  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 21:58:41 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: re DIY garages.

 
> Ray asks...
> > tell me how a DIY garage works.

 
> (snip) I believe that they had some tools to rent out and you paid for the 
> time you used the facilities. (snip)
> Cheers, Mike

Ah yes, takes me back to my first car which I got at the tender age of 28 in 
1977: a '72 SCOUT. Winter in Rochester, New York. A do-it-yourself 
garage, the Auto-Fix (?). Three or four bays with hydraulic lifts and 
various tools. Bays rented by the 1/2 hour and you signed out tools, all 
with drivers license as security deposit.  

Rochester: cold and snowy. SCOUT needed an oil-change (my first). So, I 
arrived with oil-filter and quarts of oil. Signed up for a bay and used 
the lift (no extra charge), emptied the old oil into one of those big 
screen funneled collectors that service stations have. Quick and neat....

Old oil filter was on....TIGHT. I did not have a strap wrench, and the 
Auto-Fix didn't have such a wimpy tool to rent, so I signed out a big 
screwdriver, stabbed the filter and twisted it off (over the funnel, of 
course, so everthing was still neat). 

Unpacked the new oil filter, smeared some oil on the rubber gasket and 
was going to screw it on....but the threaded hole in the new filter was 
MUCH BIGGER than the SCOUT piece that it screwed onto.

SCOUT had no oil in engine, old filter was utterly mangled with two huge 
screwdriver holes. Auto-part store was far from the Auto-fix. Auto-fix bay 
meter was running....

So, I lowered the SCOUT, pushed it out of the bay, into the snowy, cold 
street, helped by a slight down-hill.  Walked to the auto parts store and 
exchanged the filter for one that fit, walked back to the SCOUT and finished 
the job in the gutter. Back of head in snow, looking up into the 
underbelly of the SCOUT while daylight faded on a frigid winter afternoon....

When I drove by the Auto-Fix several months later, it had closed up.

Now, I probably have 3 or 4 strap wrenches.....I think there's one in this 
box....no...must be this one.....Oh,well, I'll just get another when I 
pick up the oil. 

Best wishes,
David

'94 D90 (needs next oil change in about 1500 miles....still have time to 
find the wrench.....)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 08:37:42 +0200 (GMT+0200)
From: Donald Abbot <donald@spl.co.za>
Subject: Re: Fitting electric fans to series L-Rs

On Mon, 27 Nov 1995, Alan Cookson wrote:
> BTW, got any ideas how to keep the doors shut properly (a bungee cord 
> across the door tops only lets you open 1 door at a time!) my drivers 
> and rear door locks are well worn, and doors pop open onto the last 
> catch, under only slight provocation. Can this be adjusted out, or am 
> I up for replacements?

I notice that in my 1973 Series III that the doors would pop open to the 
last catch from time to time. In most cases it was a door that had been 
locked at some time and then tested for being locked. You know, the sort 
of thing you do when you park the vehicle in a public area. Later, when 
travelling, the door would pop. If the door is bumped inwards after 
testing it would be fine.

If this is not the case I suggest that the door latches and catches be 
cleaned up, oiled and checked to see that they align correctly.

Donald

------------------------------

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