[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | rover@europa.com (Brad K | 39 | alternators |
2 | Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-m | 37 | 60000km service question |
3 | "Steve Methley" [sgm@hpl | 21 | Re: How Are RR's Like To Work On? |
4 | wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy | 67 | Re: 60000km service question |
5 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 50 | [not specified] |
6 | Stuart Williams [STUARTW | 21 | Disco 15K Service |
7 | Stuart Williams [STUARTW | 48 | Disco Throttle Problem - FAQ Candidate! |
8 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 44 | Re: Range Rover front propshafts |
9 | Stuart Williams [STUARTW | 35 | Spastic Turn Signals On Discovery |
10 | "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak | 19 | Re: Colored Wire |
11 | Ray Harder [ccray@showme | 20 | Re: Lawrence in surgery. |
12 | Ray Harder [ccray@showme | 24 | Re: Headliner, EFI, Help! |
13 | gnome@st.rim.or.jp (Shun | 5 | [not specified] |
14 | jim@kidd.com (jnk) | 7 | CAMEL TROPHY '95 |
15 | Tim McDaniel [mcdaniel@a | 64 | Picking up a rolling chassis... |
16 | Ray Harder [ccray@showme | 42 | Re: Wanted: good used 88" frame |
17 | i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk | 16 | Re: One man Brake Bleeder |
18 | cboese@co.san-bernardino | 24 | Re: LR D110 + other comments |
19 | Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-m | 26 | Re: 60000km service question |
20 | i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk | 16 | Re: One man Brake Bleeder |
21 | cboese@co.san-bernardino | 31 | disabled Discovery - the culprit |
22 | a-robw@microsoft.com | 22 | RE: LR D110 + other comments |
23 | a-robw@microsoft.com | 33 | Re: LR D110 + other comments |
24 | "Soren Vels Christensen" | 49 | Re: Lawrence in surgery. |
25 | Susan Dykstra (ArtSource | 12 | Selling my Defender 90... |
26 | "Alan Cookson" [acookson | 30 | Fitting electric fans to series L-Rs |
27 | asmith@BayNetworks.COM ( | 22 | Re: Disco Throttle Problem - FAQ Candidate! |
28 | Phil Ethier [ethier@free | 11 | current LR list? |
29 | Bennett Leeds [bennett@m | 30 | Re: extended warranties ...Disco's |
30 | Stuart Williams [STUARTW | 25 | Re: Disco Throttle Problem - FAQ Candidate! |
31 | add@philabs.research.phi | 23 | Accessory prices for Discovery '96 |
32 | rthomas@postoffice.ptd.n | 18 | Re: Headliner, EFI, Help! |
33 | carley@manly.civeng.unsw | 20 | Re: 60000km service question |
34 | "Francis J. Twarog" [ftw | 33 | trivia |
35 | "John P. Casteel" [70472 | 52 | Headliner, EFI, Help! |
36 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 28 | [not specified] |
37 | jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben | 17 | test and for sale |
38 | jpappa01@interserv.com | 29 | Re: D90 SW ARRIVES! |
39 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 24 | Re: Lawrence in surgery. |
40 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 23 | British "cuisine" |
41 | David Rosenbaum [rosenba | 55 | Re: re DIY garages. |
42 | Donald Abbot [donald@spl | 23 | Re: Fitting electric fans to series L-Rs |
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 00:33:31 -0800 From: rover@europa.com (Brad Krohn/Deborah Shannon) Subject: alternators Sorry for the delay in responding, but here's some data on alternators from a handy little booklet called "Lucas Fault Diagnosis Service Manual" - a freebie given out to registrants at the '94 All-British Field Meet in Portland, Oregon <US>. The 4TR voltage regulator appears to be fairly standard and the local parts store threw one in when he sold me a brand new-in-the-box 11AC that was, as was stated, an original option on late IIAs. The AC alternators require external regulator. The ACRs are integrated. Maximum outputs are listed as such: 10AC 35A 11AC 45A 11AC* 60A (*25380, 23633 - numbers similar to those on the yoke of mine) 15ACR 28A 16ACR 34A 17ACR 36A 17ACR* 25A (*derated) 18ACR 43A 20ACR 66A There is no mention of a 15AC (with no R). This handy little tome has testing procedures, other values, etc. Don't know if it's still available. The date on this one was 2/94. It says "Catalog No. 9001" and comes/came from Lucas Aftermarket Operations, Lucas Industries Inc. Troy Michigan <Printed in USA>. BTW, I still haven't had time to replace my C40 genny with the 11AC, so all data is as Joe stated it (not necessarily reality!). Cheers. Brad ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de Subject: 60000km service question Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 09:04:57 +0100 (MET) Hello Rovers! I just did the first part of the 60000km inspection on my 110 (yes it's that new ;-) and have some questions on the things still to do. * Adjusting the valve play: The manual just states to adjust it on the fully open valve. How do I get them open one after the other? (Stupid beginners question???) Do I need to replace any gaskets if I adjust the valves? * Still leaky center diff: I checked the breather as Kurt sugested and it was not blocked at all, nor was it loose as I suspected. Still any ideas why the oil get's out of the case? The area around the breather was absolutely clean. (Maybe I'll should postpone this 'till it's summer again). And now a little story that may save you some bucks: When I got to local autoparts store a month ago to buy an oilfilter, they just told me: sorry, we don't have them for Land Rovers. So I got one from a Brit. autoparts dealer for 16.-DM (~10.70US$) and went back to the first store this saturday, just for curiosity. I showed the filter to the guy at the counter and asked, if they had such a thing. He looked at it for a moment and said:' Looks like the Volkswagen Golf (Rabbit in the US) filter'. It was exactly the same size and I bought it for 10.-DM. Happy rovering Franz PS. I've a pretty new Michelin sand tyre (7.50 R16) lying around which I don't need. Anybody interested ? -- Franz Parzefall tbr1102@hpmail.lrz-muenchen.de _______ [____|\_\== [_-__|__|_-] exmil. 110 2.5D ___.._(0)..._.(0)__.._ ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 10:00:07 +0000 Subject: Re: How Are RR's Like To Work On? John asks: >1. How are RR's to work on? I find them mechanically just as easy to work on as Series vehicles. But then I have an early one, before they were tarted up for the poseurs. Even so I find looking after the furnishings more challenging than the mechanical bits. My RR rides a lot better than my old leafer, but is otherwise quite similar, and definitely has character. The V8 is wonderful. Having said that I have the MOT on Wednesday....... -- Best Regards, Steve. ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 11:12:33 +0001 From: wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy Wassili) Subject: Re: 60000km service question >To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net >Hello Rovers! [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >Hello Rovers! >I just did the first part of the 60000km inspection on my 110 (yes it's that new ;-) >and have some questions on the things still to do. >* Adjusting the valve play: The manual just states to adjust it on the fully open >valve. How do I get them open one after the other? (Stupid beginners question???) >Do I need to replace any gaskets if I adjust the valves? >* Still leaky center diff: I checked the breather as Kurt sugested and it >was not blocked at all, nor was it loose as I suspected. Still any ideas why >the oil get's out of the case? The area around the breather was absolutely clean. >(Maybe I'll should postpone this 'till it's summer again). >And now a little story that may save you some bucks: >When I got to local autoparts store a month ago to buy an oilfilter, they just told me: >sorry, we don't have them for Land Rovers. So I got one from a Brit. autoparts dealer >for 16.-DM (~10.70US$) and went back to the first store this saturday, just for >curiosity. I showed the filter to the guy at the counter and asked, if they had such >a thing. He looked at it for a moment and said:' Looks like the Volkswagen Golf (Rabbit >in the US) filter'. It was exactly the same size and I bought it for 10.-DM. >Happy rovering [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >Franz >PS. I've a pretty new Michelin sand tyre (7.50 R16) lying around which I don't need. >Anybody interested ? >-- [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > [_-__|__|_-] exmil. 110 2.5D > ___.._(0)..._.(0)__.._ Franz, At the time I drove around in a LandCruiser 2.5 TD I had the small services done ( every 5000 km!) by a specialized shop( Kwikfit ) for these matters. Wich ment changing the oil and oilfilter. Since they always had problems ordering an oilfilter I had them only change the oil and had the filter changed every 10.000 km according to the manual through the Toyota dealer. Well, the guy from Kwikfit told me that oilfilters for turbocharged engines do have valves in the filterhousing( has something to do with oilpressure !? ) and are not exchangable with oilfilters for non-turbocharged engines. So make sure that the Volkswagen oilfilter *is exactly* the same as the LR oilfilter. LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR ____ | _____/|__|| Roy Wassili,<wassili@amc.uva.nl> | /(-8| \ | Avalon Green '95 Discovery, VG-XH-66 ____|_/[]__|__\___|# scarved for live |] __=| | __ |# [|_/ \|_____|_/ \_|] ( o ) ( o ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: 60000km service question Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 02:22:24 -0800 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> In message <199511270924.EAA08116@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote: > I just did the first part of the 60000km inspection on my 110 (yes it's that > new ;-) and have some questions on the things still to do. > * Adjusting the valve play: The manual just states to adjust it on the fully > open valve. How do I get them open one after the other? There are two basic ways to do this. On Rovers that have handcranks you just use the crank to rotate the engine to the correct position. The other way is to park the Rover on a flat section of ground an put into a high gear (like 4th or 5th). Take the emergency brake off. Then by gently pushing or rocking the vehicle the the engaged drivetrain will rotate the engine. It doesn't take much motion to do this. On my SIII I can adjust all 8 valves with only 2 or so total feet of ground motion by my Rover. This may be a lot more difficult with a diesel due to the high compression ratio. On a petrol engine you can remove the sparkplugs so that there is no compression in the cylinders. I haven't seen a diesel upclose, but don't they have glow plugs mounted in a similar fashion? Assuming that the 2.5Diesel isn't radically different from other engines that I've worked on, usually when the manunal says to ajust on fully open valves, you open a certain valve and adjust the clearance on a different one. When a valve is completely open, a rocker arm has pushed down on the top of the valve stem and compressed the spring. You certainly aren't going to adjust the clearance on that valve, but due to the timing of engines, when one valve is completely open, on of the valves for another cylinder should be completely closed. That is the one that you adjust. On the 2.25 petrol engine the valves are adjusted in pairs. 1 & 8, 2 & 7, 3 & 6, 4 & 5. So with #1 open you adjust #8 and with #8 open you adjust #1. The manual should list the appropriate pairs. > Do I need to replace any gaskets if I adjust the valves? Usually your replace the valve cover gasket(s). With the 2.25 L engine you can get away with reusing the valve cover gaskets a few times. I don't know about the 2.5D. Gaskets are ususally relativly cheep. Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. He'd drive it up the Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..." --Kevin Archie ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Stuart Williams <STUARTW@po1.net.cho.ge.com> Subject: Disco 15K Service Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 08:03:00 EST Disco Owners : I just had the 15K service done on my '95 Discovery at our dealer in Richmond VA. Total charge including parts, fluids, and tax was $194.15. The dealer gave me a loaner for the day and gave the Disco a much needed wash job. As always, your mileage may vary! FYI Stuart Williams Charlottesville, Virginia '95 Discovery V8i "Great White" '85 LandCruiser "Old Paint" ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Stuart Williams <STUARTW@po1.net.cho.ge.com> Subject: Disco Throttle Problem - FAQ Candidate! Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 08:11:00 EST All, I recently developed a problem with my '95 Disco (the first real problem in 14K miles) that required dealer intervention. The problem was a brief engine stumble or cutout whenever the throttle was eased after cresting gentle hills or when running on flat terrain at 70 MPH or so. It happened with or without the cruise control operating, and with or without the OD engaged. The engine would immediately resume normal operation, but the vehicle would lurch noticeably as everything caught back up with itself. Duncan Brown tells me that this is normal behavior for his 1960 Series IIa, but I was not thrilled with it happening to my Disco given the upcoming holiday weekend and some planned travels around the mid-Atlantic. At first I thought that it might have been transmission slippage or OD problems but the RPMs would actually visibly drop on the tachometer during the infrequent longer incidents, so I had visions of new Engine Control Computers and other Lucas bits dancing in my head. The dealer's first suspicion was the fuel pump, so they set up a pressure gauge and took the vehicle on the road but could never see any drops in pressure during the fairly easy to duplicate stumbles. Next they attached a diagnostic monitor to the ECC and sent two technicians on the road, one driving and one riding shotgun on the monitor, to see what they could see. Sure enough, the signal from the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor, Roverese for potentiometer) was intermittent under certain conditions and was momentarily sending signals to the ECC that caused the engine to fall back to idle, albeit briefly. They say that this sort of thing should have caused the 'Check Engine' light to come on, and it probably was, but things corrected themselves so fast that the dashboard light was never observed. Maybe a latching circuit would be helpful here, although that might be a double-edged sword given everything that's wired to that indicator! Anyway, they replaced the TPS under warranty and we're back on the road, better than ever. Kudos to Drew, the technician at Land Rover Richmond that found the problem. For the life of me I can't imagine why the Throttle Position Sensor might have worn out ;^) !!! FYI Stuart Williams Charlottesville, Virginia '95 Disco V8i "Great White" '85 LandCruiser "Old Paint" ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 27 Nov 95 08:21:55 EST From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Range Rover front propshafts > that the front driveshaft yokes are not meant to line up (at least for a 110) ...and Jim Roth who had technical problems to reply directly to the list asked my to forward the following: ------------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: 26-Nov-95 18:14 CET From: Jim Roth [74245,1226] Subj: Rover Drive Shaft I saw your reply to this question on the LRO. You might be interested to know that the Rover manual addresses this specifically and the joints are, indeed, supposed to "off" a little for the front drive shaft. I'll quote "The front shaft which is shorter than the rear is 'Phased' with the joints at each end...mis-aligned as shown (in picture).... This phasing is necessary on the front shaft only to allow for greater variation in angular changes." The picture shows the mis-alignment as well as the matching arrows. I notice a little vibration in my vehicle around 35mph (60kph) and I suspect it's due to this. I own a Discovery, but the drive line is supposed to be the same. The rears are lined up as you said. Please pass this on. ----------- End of forwarded message ---------- I don't have a 90 or 110 manual at hand right now, but first let me point out that RR and Defender propshafts are 'something completely different' (the price difference has to be justified by something, after all). Having said that, hold on a sec while I check out the facts... RR workshop manual says... nothing, except that the alignment markings should be observed. So, I'm out into the cold to look underneath the beast... back again (~shiver~). The front propshaft yokes are - (suspense) - NOTALIGNED . So, I guess I'll have to regress on that one. OTOH I wouldn't want to rule out that there are RRs out there with *aligned* yokes. The infinite wisdom of Solihul engineers is unfathomable, and what is true for one model may be reversed on the next. Your best bet would be a) to observe the alignment marks at the sliding joints, b) *never* to mix parts from different propshafts. After all, YP(ropsh...) - oh, forget it... Stefan <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Stuart Williams <STUARTW@po1.net.cho.ge.com> Subject: Spastic Turn Signals On Discovery Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 08:48:00 EST I saw Mark Kraieski's LRO posting about a spastic rear bumper-mounted turn signal (one not working and the rest of the turn signals blinking fast). I know that this problem has been in the LRO digest several times but I can't recall that anyone has ever posted the solution(s) for it. We own a '95 Disco with 14K miles that developed the same problem in the right rear turn signal a couple of months ago. I called our dealer in Richmond VA (75 miles away) thinking that the bulb was burned out and maybe I could buy a local replacement and save the trip down the highway. They informed me that this was a known problem (there is a Service Bulletin, I believe) and advised me of the short and long term fixes : Short Term : Remove the bulb holder from the back of the signal housing by turning it gently approximately 1/8 turn. Remove the bulb from the holder. With a small screwdriver, *gently* pry up on the small tab that provides the spring force that maintains electrical contact between the bulb and the housing. Re-insert the bulb into the holder and then re-insert the holder into the housing. Voila. The signals worked like a champ after that, but metal fatigue is a wonderful thing and this is destined to be only a short term fix. Long Term : Replacement of the bulb holders by your dealer with new and improved parts. I had both of mine proactively replaced under warranty during a recent service visit. FYI Stuart Williams '95 Discovery V8i "Great White" '85 Land Cruiser "Old Paint" ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 06:08:31 -0800 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com> Subject: Re: Colored Wire In message <199511242357.SAA05278@butler.uk.stratus.com> Robert Dennis writes: > This reminded me, does anyone know of a source for multicolored wire? I know ; lots of sources for single color wire, but none that has a colored tracer. > Preferably in the US. ; Rob British Pacific in California carries all the standard Lucas coloured wires, and connectors. They also carry complete new wiring harness for Land Rovers TeriAnn Currently In Stockholm ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 08:07:27 -0600 (CST) From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu> Subject: Re: Lawrence in surgery. On Thu, 23 Nov 1995, Soren Vels Christensen wrote: > Well, only one way to go. I drove the car to a DIY garage and my brother and > ^^^^^^^^^^ > i fired up the grinder and welded on two outriggers holding the front of the tell me how a DIY garage works. i thought of this as something for my second career. i would own the garage and lots of major tools and i would rent the space/tools to people who want to work on their cars/trucks out of the weather. i never figured out how the tool theft and liability insurance angles would work out. to me, it would be an ideal job. just setting around the garage talking cars and shop with all the local-yokels and getting paid for it. ray harder (siia 88 (lulu)) ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 08:45:17 -0600 (CST) From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu> Subject: Re: Headliner, EFI, Help! On Fri, 24 Nov 1995, Randall B. Thomas wrote: > It seems that the headliner in my 67 88" IIA "Chipper" has faired > considerably better in it's 28 years than the one on my wifes beloved 88 > Range Rover "Shredder". It appears the glue that holds the fabric to the > molded piece has now completely failed leaving me with the following: no private email on this one -- reply to the list. my 87 rr has a headliner that is asl starting to fail and i am worried (when i look at it and think about it). my thoughts so far have been: -- take it to an upholstry shop... -- call one of the headliner guys that advertise in the paper and do their thing "in your parking lot..." -- cut a small slit and spray some 3m stuff there. -- no other ideas. i don't want to even consider removing the headliner -- this is an rr i don't think about it very often, but if someone posted the solution, i could completely ignore it for awhile...:) ray harder (siia 88 (lulu) and 87 rr) ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 23:49:58 +0900 From: gnome@st.rim.or.jp (Shunichi Nishi) unsubscribe land-rover-owner ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 09:45:06 -0400 From: jim@kidd.com (jnk) Subject: CAMEL TROPHY '95 The Mundo Maya will be on ESPN Tuesday, November 28, 1995 at 1:30 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 10:52:32 -0500 From: Tim McDaniel <mcdaniel@adra.com> Subject: Picking up a rolling chassis... Hello all, I'm looking for an opinion or help on a 88" series rolling chassis that I'm thinking of buying for parts. The cost is $200 and the chassis is a Series IIa. Here's what I get: 2.25 l engine. Turns and was running within the last few years. Zenith carb. Transfer case. 5 16 inch rims Heater that works. Big unit with fan attached to the core housing. Does anyone know if this is a Kodiak? If it is, has anyone put one of these into a Series III? Front and rear running gear diffs/axles etc. Two new front horn assemblies Two new main front leafs Rear station wagon door One front door Radiator panel. Tropical roof with sun sheet. Question: Will this bolt right on to a Series III station wagon in place of the existing hardtop? Dash with guages. The chassis itself is repairable. No other body parts interior or exterior. I think it's OK for $200 and I'm going to pick it up. I would like to sell off (cheap) any parts that I don't need. Specifically, the radiator panel, doors, the chassis itself, left horn assembly, and possibly the transmission. Miscellaneous switches, steering wheel, etc. If you have any interest or comments in the above or you can answer the question about the heater or roof, please let me know. Thanks, Tim +----------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Tim McDaniel (508) 937-3700 ext. 725 | | Adra Systems, Inc. (508) 453-2462 (FAX) | | 2 Executive Drive | | Chelmsford, MA 01824 mcdaniel@adra.com | | USA | +----------------------------------------------------------------------+ ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 10:09:01 -0600 (CST) From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu> Subject: Re: Wanted: good used 88" frame On Sun, 26 Nov 1995, Tim Harincar wrote: > Subject: Wanted: good used 88" frame tim, sorry to hear about your problems. i live in mid-missouri which is about 600 miles from you (maybe)... i have a frame and bulkhead, but... -- the frame -- it is under roof now. i had planned to use it but... the PO had done some pretty rough driving and there are dents in a couple of the outriggers. the engine and tx crossmembers are dented -- this is not necessarily a problem as lots of daily drivers have this problem, it just is a problem if you are a perfectionist. the rear crossmember has minor rust, but i was planning to patch it and strengthen it as it is minor. my plan (i have a mig welder and expertise), but no time, was to straighten the outriggers, patch the rear member, weld in replacement cross members (which i have) and have the whole thing galvanized. it is a good frame, but has the above flaws. and yes, most of the paint is still off -- although some is still present. maybe you could come down and we could do the repairs together in my driveway... -- the bulkhead -- it is off a 69 (the frame, too) and has been sandblasted and galvanized. it is in perfect condition. a couple of holes would need to be drilled to mount the ww motors but i think that is all. i don't think i could let them go for $800 -- i think the bulkhead is worth close to that, but i could work with you. let me know if you are interested. i need to go look again real closely at the frame before you drive down -- don't want any surprises but i think the above description is accurate. i was planning on reusing it and thats the way i remember things. if this sounds interesting, lets talk. i have a few other parts -- maybe you have some i want. good luck on your project. a posting today someone was bragging they did a frame-over in 6 long days. ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 16:03:54 GMT Subject: Re: One man Brake Bleeder Hi Yep, I've used the Gunson gadget, although mine was the cheaper version which only consisted of the tube with the one way valve (i.e. it didn't have the facility for connecting to the tyre valve). It wrked great. However, when several months later I came to use it again the tube had clouded up so it was then impossible to see if bubbles were present. I don't know if there are any storage instructions or why the tube clouded over. Cheers, Ian ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 08:11:29 -0800 From: cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us (Christopher Boese) Subject: Re: LR D110 + other comments Ted Wei asks: >2. The body panel fit on the Disco is not even comparable to my late model audi or girlfriend's Infiniti, any comments? That's something I noticed long before I began looking seriously at Land Rovers. It may have everything to do with the panels being made of aluminum, it may have nothing to do with it. Look at other, especially American trucks, though. Their panel fit isn't any better. >3. what type of gas mileage are people getting? Always 14. Ted, have you taken your Discovery off-road yet? At least while you're out there, you'll forget all the niggling little problems. Christopher Boese County of San Bernardino, California Information Services, Information Systems Security Office '95 beluga black Discovery ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Franz.Parzefall@lrz.tu-muenchen.de Subject: Re: 60000km service question Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 16:21:41 +0100 (MET) Roy Wassili writes: > Well, the guy from Kwikfit told me that oilfilters for turbocharged engines > do have valves in the filterhousing( has something to do with oilpressure !? > ) and are not exchangable with oilfilters for non-turbocharged engines. > So make sure that the Volkswagen oilfilter *is exactly* the same as the LR > oilfilter. Hm! I'm pretty sure, that the VW oilfilter is the same, but I'll check it out, when I come to the autoparts dealer, soon. Just a guess: The valve in the TD oilfilter may be there to bypass the filter at high rpm to get more oilpressure for the turbo. If that is true, I won't face a problem, since my motor doesn't even know what a turbo charger is. ;-) Franz -- Franz Parzefall tbr1102@hpmail.lrz-muenchen.de _______ [____|\_\== [_-__|__|_-] exmil. 110 2.5D ___.._(0)..._.(0)__.._ ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: i.mitchell@ic.ac.uk Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 16:03:54 GMT Subject: Re: One man Brake Bleeder Hi Yep, I've used the Gunson gadget, although mine was the cheaper version which only consisted of the tube with the one way valve (i.e. it didn't have the facility for connecting to the tyre valve). It wrked great. However, when several months later I came to use it again the tube had clouded up so it was then impossible to see if bubbles were present. I don't know if there are any storage instructions or why the tube clouded over. Cheers, Ian ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 09:19:00 -0800 From: cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us (Christopher Boese) Subject: disabled Discovery - the culprit Last week I wrote about being stranded in the dirt with a Discovery that wouldn't start. It was obviously some sort of fuel problem; Symes Land Rover in Pasadena confirmed this. They put their Solihull-trained Range Rover guy on the case and he discovered that one of the wires to the electric fuel pump on top of the tank had worked its way loose. It seems someone at the factory had not pushed it all the way down or failed to clip it on securely; I couldn't decipher exactly what I was being told without seeing the wires themselves. BTW, when I looked into the cargo area later, I discovered that the dealer hadn't correctly reinstalled the carpet and the rubber mat underneath. There was a big piece of rubber hanging out next to one of the wheel wells and other bits of carpet were shoved under it. I removed the sill that holds the carpet and pulled up and reseated everything. I was annoyed, but I did notice that there's at least one access panel under there, and that might be the place to check for loose wires in the future. Symes hasn't yet been able (after three attempts) to fix the creaking I've been hearing coming from the rear door or thereabouts. This time, they tightened some of the body mounts, which is something they do at every service. I was told, "They creak when they're too loose and they creak when they're too tight." Something still creaks, but off-road I don't notice and nothing has split open yet so I'll be patient. Christopher Boese County of San Bernardino, California Information Services, Information Systems Security Office '95 beluga black Discovery ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: a-robw@microsoft.com Subject: RE: LR D110 + other comments Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 09:32:28 -0800 >1. I'm having some water leaking problems in the passenger rear speaker >area. They resealed the alpine windows once before, and it'll go in again >this week to find the culprit. Anyone with similar problems? I had to have the rear door re-aligned to get it to seal correctly across the top. I found this out when I drove through a car wash and water came cascading through the top of the read door. The kids thought it was pretty funny :-) The dealer fixed this under the warranty. Other than that I haven't had any leaks from above or below, since (and I've tested both!) _____ /|__|_\__(| Bob Watson | | | \ a-robw@microsoft.com |---|___|___\____ Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA | _|= |= |o_ }\ [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}| '95 Beluga Black Discovery \_/ \_/ N7UMU ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: a-robw@microsoft.com Subject: Re: LR D110 + other comments Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 09:32:27 -0800 | >2. The body panel fit on the Disco is not even comparable to my late model |audi or girlfriend's Infiniti, any comments? I'd read that the wide "inter-panel" gaps were intentional so as to accomodate the flexing that occurs while bouncing around off-road. It would seem that this would keep it squeak & rattle free for a longer (i.e. more miles) time. While the gaps are wide, they seem to be uniform. My only "body" problem was the rear door had to be re-aligned (covered under warranty). |>3. what type of gas mileage are people getting? 16 mpg - freeway (70 mph) 12 mpg - freeway (70 mph towing a 2500 lb trailer) 12 mpg - city 10 mpg - off-road 12.9 mpg overall average since I bought it. ( I do a lot of city driving) YMMV, of course. _____ /|__|_\__(| Bob Watson | | | \ a-robw@microsoft.com |---|___|___\____ Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA | _|= |= |o_ }\ [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}| '95 Beluga Black Discovery \_/ \_/ N7UMU ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 19:23:44 -0600 (CST) From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk> Subject: Re: Lawrence in surgery. In message Mon, 27 Nov 1995 08:07:27 -0600 (CST), Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu> writes: > tell me how a DIY garage works. i thought of this as something Where we went the procedure was: Upon arrival, park the outside the garage to avoid traffic jam in the building. Go to the store. Register using the cars reg. no. Get a booth no. and a "credit card" (blank plastic card with dymo numbers on). Take the car to the booth. The computer at the store is now counting the minutes. I got a 20hr. count twice (buy 20 hrs and save 26,5 percent, valid one week). When you rent tools or buy bolts etc you show your "credit card". Tools that are expensive by the hour can of course be handed in and picked up later. Welding, high pressure cleaning etc. requires you to feed a slot machine. For example, you get 8 effective minutes welding for dkr10.- (app $1.40). When you are done you hand in the rest of the tools and get the bill where you can see everything you have to pay for. If you are not done when closing you can buy an overnight reservation (same booth) for about $3.50. But if you leave before closing you will of course have to pay full price until they close. You always pay when you leave, also if you leave the car for the night. > i never figured > out how the tool theft and liability insurance angles would With the above mentioned system you always know who has what. I a welder evaporates, - bad luck for the customer. He should keep an eye on it. As for liability; if the tools are not in order you would defenitely be out of business fast. Else, who knows. In Denmark the words "common sense" rules the courts. In USA...well if you can use a ladder as a car jack and get rich by hurting yourself... > the garage talking cars and shop with all the local-yokels and > getting paid for it. YES! If you have skills at mingling, you could make each customer describe their cars from bumper to bumper, tell about all the modifications and entertain you with it's complete history from when it left the factory. Just like you do yourself if some poor bastard should happen to comment on Lulu. Should easily get 10-15 min. extra out of every customer. Except if they are grinding. Hope to see you in biz. sv/aurens ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Susan Dykstra (ArtSource) <a-susdy@microsoft.com> Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 10:33:39 TZ Subject: Selling my Defender 90... ^MMessage-ID: red-60-msg951127184044MTP[01.51.00]000000b3-5699 I have a blue 1994 Defender 90 with a safari cage and extra back seat. I has 18,000 miles on it and I'm selling it for $27,000. It's in perfect condition. If you are interested, I'm at a-susdy@microsoft.com - that's Seattle, WA. ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Alan Cookson" <acookson@iafrica.com> Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 21:29:19 +0200 Subject: Fitting electric fans to series L-Rs Michael Carradine (cs@crl.com) wrote re fitting fans to series L-Rs: Michael, Re. your request for info about fitting electric fans to series L-Rs, last week sometime. I fitted a pair of Kenlowe fans to my 69 S11A LWB (veteran of a 2 year trip UK to Oz and back) about 20 years ago, and they worked fine: cut engine noise and fuel consumption, and engine revved easier. Kenlowe kit is still available in the UK, but quite pricey now. Installation then was pretty simple, just a few holes to drill. Adjustable thermostat unit mounted under bonnet(OK, hood!) next to header tank - you set-cut in temperature on a dial. Sensor unit goes inside top radiator hose. I fitted an override switch on the dash as well. BTW, got any ideas how to keep the doors shut properly (a bungee cord across the door tops only lets you open 1 door at a time!) my drivers and rear door locks are well worn, and doors pop open onto the last catch, under only slight provocation. Can this be adjusted out, or am I up for replacements? Keep cool! Alan Cookson (Felix: '76 88 SW) ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 11:50:22 PST From: asmith@BayNetworks.COM (Andrew Smith) Subject: Re: Disco Throttle Problem - FAQ Candidate! > From LRO-Owner@uk.stratus.com Mon Nov 27 05:40:07 1995 > From: Stuart Williams <STUARTW@po1.net.cho.ge.com> [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > Subject: Disco Throttle Problem - FAQ Candidate! > Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 08:11:00 EST Stuart, > but I was not thrilled with it happening to my Disco given the upcoming > holiday weekend and some planned travels around the mid-Atlantic. Now I hope you didn't exceed that "maximum wading depth" out there off the edge of the continental shelf near the Azores .... :-) Andrew Smith Palo Alto CA USA '96 Discovery (out here on dry land) ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 14:15:52 -0600 (CST) From: Phil Ethier <ethier@freenet.msp.mn.us> Subject: current LR list? I have some conflicting reports on where the land-rover-owner mailing list is now. Is this it? What is the subscribe drill? Phil Ethier <ethier@freenet.msp.mn.us> ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 12:28:22 PST From: Bennett Leeds <bennett@mv.us.adobe.com> Subject: Re: extended warranties ...Disco's > My spouse is adamant about purchasing an extended warranty on our > 95 Disco with about 12,000 miles on it. >From what I've heard here, I don't blame her. > Can you buy them thru any dealer? Yes. You can also buy them from other sources, such as car negotiating services. I got mine through Car Club. You need to buy them before your existing warranty expires - I've heard the limit is you need to have at least 1K miles and 1 month more to go. > Are there warranties available without the outrageous dealer mark > up? I was quite surprised to find out that dealers were not adding a lot onto the price a few months back. In the last month the prices of these warranties on Land Rovers have gone through the roof (more than doubled!) due to reclassification. At least one dealer I know of has absorbed some of the price increase for vehicles purchased from them, making them much lower than Car Club, for instance. - Bennett ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Stuart Williams <STUARTW@po1.net.cho.ge.com> Subject: Re: Disco Throttle Problem - FAQ Candidate! Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 15:52:00 EST Andrew, As long as you ordered the optional snorkel for your CD changer this shouldn't be a problem! Talk to the folks at Rovers North, I'm sure that Lanny can get you the part number for this key component of the 'SeaRover' package... Stuart ---------- > From: asmith > To: STUARTW; Land-Rover-Owner > Subject: Re: Disco Throttle Problem - FAQ Candidate! > Date: Monday, November 27, 1995 11:50AM > Stuart, > > but I was not thrilled with it happening to my Disco given the upcoming [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)] > Palo Alto CA USA > '96 Discovery (out here on dry land) ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 16:01:10 EST From: add@philabs.research.philips.com (Aninda V. Dasgupta) Subject: Accessory prices for Discovery '96 I am in the process of negotiating with dealers for purchasing a '96 Discovery. I looked in the Edmund's guide and even paid Consumer Reports to get the dealer invoice prices on the base vehicle and all options. However, prices on accessories like brush-bars, lamp-guards, fog lamps, etc. are not available. I got a dealer to come down to the price I am willing to pay, along with the condition that he charge me dealer invoice and NOT MSRP on the accessories. But I can't tell if he is indeed charging the invoice price. I will appreciate any help in getting the prices of the above accessories. Regards, -Aninda -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Aninda DasGupta add@philabs.research.philips.com Ph:(914)945-6071 Fax:(914)945-6552 Philips Labs\n 345 Scarborough Rd\n Briarcliff Manor\n NY 10510 "Err.., Phillips Petroleum gives you gas; fortunately Phillips Chemical makes antacid. Philips is with one "el"; we make lightbulbs, and other shtuff." ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 16:46:18 -0500 From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall Thomas) Subject: Re: Headliner, EFI, Help! >> It seems that the headliner in my 67 88" IIA "Chipper" has faired >> considerably better in it's 28 years than the one on my wifes beloved 88 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)] >i could completely ignore it for awhile...:) >ray harder (siia 88 (lulu) and 87 rr) Ray, It's goihg to get worse. much, much worse. Believe me, soon you will no longer be able to ignore it. (Feel encouraged yet, or do you need more?) Cheers, Randall P.S. No ones replied to this yet, even privately. Maybe it's just one of lifes intangibles, as if the sky were falling. Perhaps nothing can be done. ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 95 08:57:01 EST From: carley@manly.civeng.unsw.EDU.AU (James Carley - WRL Staff) Subject: Re: 60000km service question How I adjust the valve clearances (for constant 4WD 110) is to jack up one front wheel (with the centre diff unlocked) and engage top gear, 4th in mine (5th in newer ones). You can then turn the wheel to rotate the engine. I used to remove the glow plugs but don't bother anymore. For novices with Series vehicles one would need to jack up a rear wheel, whilst for a viscous coupled RR (diesel) it wouldn't work. On a previous petrol 4WD (not LR) I was able to use a socket wrench on the flywheel bolt to rotate the engine for valve setting, but clearance and diesel compression preclude this on my 110. James Carley carley@manly.civeng.unsw.edu.au '85 110 County 3.9L Isuzu Diesel ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 17:39:03 -0500 (EST) From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu> Subject: trivia Well, I'm back on line - so anyone who has missed the trivia, I apologize (I know, I know, you're all so very disappointed)... well, all this time away hasn't helped me come up with lots of mind boggling stuff, but here goes: 1. What was the Discovery's code name? 2. How can one distinguish the 6 cyl. 109" from a 4 cyl. 109" by only looking at it's exterior (besides the fact it has enough power to actually move)? - I'm thinking of one aspect specifically... OK - there was a fellow named Ted who made mention of 110s possibly being available in 1996. As far as I've learned from every source available, the only Defenders that will be available new in the US in 1996 will be leftover 1995 model 90 soft and hardtops (though all of those hardtops, I believe, are already either paid for or have deposits on them) (speaking, of course, about aluminum hardtops)... the earliest we'll be seeing a new 110, if ever (a big *IF*) will be when Defenders are imported to meet both exhaust regulations and light truck safety regulations. In other words, don't hold any breaths - especially when one factors in the "exclusivity" that was promised to the initial 500 buyers (I believe that LRNA used that as a selling point, expecting that the values would increase because of the rarity). If you really do want one, the cheapest I've seen recently is one in LROA priced at around $36,000 - with 62K miles on it! If you do the math, that cost the present owner only 5 to 6 cents per mile - quite possibly the best resale value of any vehicle since the Model T!! Frank Twarog Burlington, VT ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 27 Nov 95 18:45:12 EST From: "John P. Casteel" <70472.557@compuserve.com> Subject: Headliner, EFI, Help! On Fri, 24 Nov 1995 rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net writes... >... the headliner in my 67 88 IIA has faired >considerably better in its 28 years than the one on my wifes beloved 88 >Range Rover Alas, Sir Thomas I share your woes. Last winter I pulled the headliner from my 90 RR and tried a repair using 3M s spray headliner adhesive. It is now much worse than before. What I found was that the headliner fabric was seperating from the underlying foam and not from the molded piece. Stupidly, I seperated more of the fabric myself in an effort to spray the adhesive in between the seperating pieces. So now, instead of the two small areas that were seperating, I have two LARGE areas that are badly in need of re attaching. Before giving up I will try again to glue the two fabrics together but this time I ll use something else. I hope this keeps you from making the same errors. Mr rthomas continues... >... BUT! I cannot for the life of me get my hands anywhere near the O2 sensors to >unplug and/or plug in the new ones. There is a special tool for this and I believe that a picture of it is in the official RR repair manual. It s sort of a socket with a line cut into one side so as to fit the wire through. This socket is then welded onto a handle that comes down and allows you to unscrew it from below the chasis. Check with Rovers North and see if they have one available. A flexible open end box wrench tool might work. I recently saw something at Home Depot in the _Husky_ tools department that MIGHT work. Cheers, and let me know if you find anything suitable for the headliner. I ll do likewise. John Casteel 90 RR - unnamed 93 Miata - also unnamed Beagle and Basset mix - named Bailey ( I hope that the owners never turn up. ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Subject: Re: trivia Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 16:31:51 -0800 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> In message <199511272239.RAA09804@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote: > 1. What was the Discovery's code name? "Jay". If you look at the Disco VIN number, the part that indicates that it is a Disco is a LJ, (RR Classic being LH, The RR mk2 being LP, Defenders being LD and SIII and Stage I being LB). > 2. How can one distinguish the 6 cyl. 109" from a 4 cyl. 109" by only > looking at it's exterior (besides the fact it has enough power to > actually move)? - I'm thinking of one aspect specifically... I don't know this one. Don't they have a modified bulkhead to fit the engine that can be spied via peeking through the window? Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. He'd drive it up the Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..." --Kevin Archie ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 11:05:09 EST From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben) Subject: test and for sale Hi all in US: I think I'd like to sell my LWB HT and get something else. It's a '63, but with much improved articulation and powertrain. I'd like to get $14,000 for it. If you'd like more info, please call (908) 949-9537 work. Thanks Jan PS I'm in NJ ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jpappa01@interserv.com Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 20:10:45 PST Subject: Re: D90 SW ARRIVES! Metro West finally got in first two D90 NAS SW's. One Alpine white and one Arles Blue! They look (surprise) great! Blue one is number 5 (SW 005/500) and white one SW 068/500. No surprises inside. Hoop over driver/pass seats is unclad/unpadded and painted grey. Could probably fit padding blankets from D110 spare parts bin or use pipe insulation. Small panel fit into center of fascia contains three pushbuttons for rear defrost, rear wash and rear wiper. Looks like you could order the plastic surround sans the switch insert for standard D90s and use it to mount some aux. gauges. I think I'll try this. Carpeting, rear jumpseats, upholtery, headliner and plastic side trim panels are pure NAS D110. The blue one really looks nice. Well, after 21 years, we finally got our beloved Land Rover back! Too bad its going away again!! How long this time? cheerz Jim- still washing seaweed out from under my D90! `67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid `67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid `68 2B 110 F/C diesel `70 P6B 3500S `90 Range Rover County `93 D110 (#457/500) `95 D90 #1958 ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 23:30:53 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Lawrence in surgery. Ray asks... > tell me how a DIY garage works. ................ > work on their cars/trucks out of the weather. i never figured > out how the tool theft and liability insurance angles would When I was in the USAF, all the bases I was stationed at had an "Auto Hobby Shop" - basically a DIY garage. If you needed tools, you had to sign them out and they held your drivers license until the tools were returned. No problem with insurance, being all military and such. I've only even seen one DIY shop outside of those. I believe that they had some tools to rent out and you paid for the time you used the facilities. The shop didn't stay open very long. The insurance costs probably killed it. Cheers Mike ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 23:41:58 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: British "cuisine" Alan wrote: "I have said it before and I will say it again: The British do not have cuisine, they simply have food...." Several months ago, Jeff Aronson, the editor of the Rovers North newsletter was in town on business. A couple of the ROAV lads got together with him at Reggie's Pub, one of the few establishments locally that might pass as a rendition of an English publick house. Jeff ordered 'shepherd's pie' and when it arrived, pronounced it "...absolutely devoid of flavor. It's *perfect*! Just like home!" (His parents had emigrated from the UK.) At least they had Bass, Watney's and Courage on tap! Cheers *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 21:58:41 -0800 (PST) From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu> Subject: Re: re DIY garages. > Ray asks... > > tell me how a DIY garage works. > (snip) I believe that they had some tools to rent out and you paid for the > time you used the facilities. (snip) > Cheers, Mike Ah yes, takes me back to my first car which I got at the tender age of 28 in 1977: a '72 SCOUT. Winter in Rochester, New York. A do-it-yourself garage, the Auto-Fix (?). Three or four bays with hydraulic lifts and various tools. Bays rented by the 1/2 hour and you signed out tools, all with drivers license as security deposit. Rochester: cold and snowy. SCOUT needed an oil-change (my first). So, I arrived with oil-filter and quarts of oil. Signed up for a bay and used the lift (no extra charge), emptied the old oil into one of those big screen funneled collectors that service stations have. Quick and neat.... Old oil filter was on....TIGHT. I did not have a strap wrench, and the Auto-Fix didn't have such a wimpy tool to rent, so I signed out a big screwdriver, stabbed the filter and twisted it off (over the funnel, of course, so everthing was still neat). Unpacked the new oil filter, smeared some oil on the rubber gasket and was going to screw it on....but the threaded hole in the new filter was MUCH BIGGER than the SCOUT piece that it screwed onto. SCOUT had no oil in engine, old filter was utterly mangled with two huge screwdriver holes. Auto-part store was far from the Auto-fix. Auto-fix bay meter was running.... So, I lowered the SCOUT, pushed it out of the bay, into the snowy, cold street, helped by a slight down-hill. Walked to the auto parts store and exchanged the filter for one that fit, walked back to the SCOUT and finished the job in the gutter. Back of head in snow, looking up into the underbelly of the SCOUT while daylight faded on a frigid winter afternoon.... When I drove by the Auto-Fix several months later, it had closed up. Now, I probably have 3 or 4 strap wrenches.....I think there's one in this box....no...must be this one.....Oh,well, I'll just get another when I pick up the oil. Best wishes, David '94 D90 (needs next oil change in about 1500 miles....still have time to find the wrench.....) ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 08:37:42 +0200 (GMT+0200) From: Donald Abbot <donald@spl.co.za> Subject: Re: Fitting electric fans to series L-Rs On Mon, 27 Nov 1995, Alan Cookson wrote: > BTW, got any ideas how to keep the doors shut properly (a bungee cord > across the door tops only lets you open 1 door at a time!) my drivers > and rear door locks are well worn, and doors pop open onto the last > catch, under only slight provocation. Can this be adjusted out, or am > I up for replacements? I notice that in my 1973 Series III that the doors would pop open to the last catch from time to time. In most cases it was a door that had been locked at some time and then tested for being locked. You know, the sort of thing you do when you park the vehicle in a public area. Later, when travelling, the door would pop. If the door is bumped inwards after testing it would be fine. If this is not the case I suggest that the door latches and catches be cleaned up, oiled and checked to see that they align correctly. Donald ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951128 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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