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From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk>
Subject: How Are RR's Like To Work On?
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 04:54:58 GMT

> Range Rover -- about 5 years old with about 80-100K mile, given my price range.

I'm tempted to say that you should get an _older_ Rangie, as it will
be more reliable.

I don't like modern Rangies. There are just too many fiddly little
pieces involved. The original Rangie concept was a brilliant
combination of road & off-road flexibility, but (IMHO) the modern
vehicles are getting to be too complicated and unreliable for a long
service life. I see 20 year old Rangies on an almost daily basis,
whenever someone needs a big reliable tow-car that goes on forever. I
don't expect to see post '89 models still running around in 15
years....

I have an '85 carb Rangie, because it's just about the last year made
when you could still fix them with a rock (*). I've just rebuilt my
entire brake system; from master cylinders seals right out to braided
stainless flexies and new vented disks. There's no way I could afford
to do this with a post '89 ABS rig. That thing has about a dozen
solenoid valves in it ! What am I supposed to do if that goes wrong in
the middle of Bratislava ? (**)

On the plus side, the more recent Rangies do get some more
sophisticated features, like ABS, a viscous centre diff and possibly
air suspension. It's your choice.

(*)  I broke a rear brake disk a few weeks ago, cracked it clean off
at the flange. Despite having it happen in the middle of a country
market town's one-way street system, I found that there wasn't a
Land-Rover dealer within 30 miles. My only option was to get home
myself, which required me to saw the old disk off in two halves, then
wedge the caliper pistons in place by jamming a small rock between
them. I drove home 50 miles on it, and could hardly notice any loss of
braking.

(**) Actually, Bratislava has one of the best Landie dealers that side
of Berlin. Try breaking down in Albania though.

> But I've never worked on a RR and have never owned one before, 
> so I'd appreciate it if the RR owners on the list could tell me:

> 1.  How are RR's to work on?  

Pretty easy. If you've experience of a Landie, you'll find yourself
right at home. About the only thing you'll miss is the ability to lift
floor panels out in seconds.

With a Rangie you also get to play the game of "Guess which set of
spanners I need". It can never make its mind up whether to use metric
of UNF bolts. Rear wings are held on with metric at the front and UNF
at the back...

> Can you do most jobs as DYI without a shop's
> worth of "special tools"?.  

Yes. You need a 2' long ratchet or breaker bar, a hub-nut spanner and
that's about it. You'll also need lifting gear that is up to the job
in both capacity and height, but that shouldn't surprise any previous
Landie owner.

You'll need a genuine service manual. Carb models are one volume and
not too expensive, injection models and onwards are a whole library
full.

> Is there room to reach in and work?  

Engine access is about as much fun as any V engine is ever going to
be. Carbs are a real pain to get to, but everything else is easy
enough. Transmission work is a nightmare, as it's such a big heavy
lump that it's a real headache to get in and out.

Changing spark plugs and tensioning the power steering belt are horrid
jobs. You need a 3/8" drive spark plug socket and a selection of
wobble bars. For tensioning the belt I use a hand-forged crowbar -
there's no other way to get decent leverage on it.

NB - Get yourself some heavy and _padded_ wing covers. The aluminium
wings are very easy to dent with a dropped spanner.

Axles are dead easy, suspension is dead easy, hubs swivels are dead
easy, brakes are dead easy. Diff juggling (a subject I'm getting far
too much practice with lately) is easy, but needs a strong-armed
assistant to lift them in. I've just rebuilt my entire front axle,
from the propshaft out to the new vented disks and it only took a
couple of days (would have been quicker, but it wouldn't stop raining)

Some repair work is awkward, because of the need to strip a bunch of
trim out before reaching the work site. It's no worse than most road
cars, but a lot different from a Landie.

> 3.  What areas of the vehicles give problems the most?  

The electrics are horrible. The wire gauge used is far too small and
the insulating material goes brittle with age. For Lucas to do this,
and top it all off by running bare wires under the floorpan without
any spiral binder or similar protection is ridiculous. After 5 years,
you might start to see random and inexplicable faults in lengths of
cable that are exposed to heat, oil or roadspray.

I've never seen a useful wiring chart for a Rangie. Apart from the
unidentifiable model changes and different national variations in
wiring which make it difficult to identify which diagram you need, the
official diagrams also ignore any connectors in the loom. This makes
it very difficult to trace wires through the vehicle.

Carb setup is awkward, unless you can find someone who knows their way
around multiple Stromberg setups.

Rust is a problem with Rangies. Most of them is steel, not aluminium,
but many owners assume that they'll _never_ rust and don't look after
them. A Rangie bodyshell is really three of them, inside each other.
At the bottom is a steel ladder chassis. This shouldn't give trouble,
so avoid any ex-coastguard or sea-fishing Rangies that have got
corrosion problems here. On top of the chassis sits a steel monocoque
body, which is usually rust free. Wrapped around the steel monocoque
is an outer shell, made of mainly aluminium panels bolted, screwed and
pop-riveted onto the steel. Most rust problems are around the steel
portions of this outer wrapper:

Lower tailgate - these are terrible for failing along the bottom edge.
When you open it and fold it down you can't see the edge as a rubber
flap is in the way. Try standing on the tailgate and feeling if it
bends - or look for rust flakes falling out.

Upper tailgate - Catches fail, and frames fail in time. If the side
catches don't work, try taking the lower trim off and adjusting the
pull rods. New catches are ridiculously expensive (20 UK pounds /
side) and adjustment will fix all but the most worn-out.

Rear body crossmember - This is originally part of the tailgate frame
(a square frame that goes right up to the roofline) and the inner
monocoque, but you can replace the lower crossmember on its own by a
lot of dismantling and a little simple welding.

Sills - part of the inner monocoque and prone to road-salt corrosion.
Easy enough to fix.

B pillars. This is the steel pillar behind the front door. They're
prone to cracking about half-way up after some years service, but
they're an easy weld to fix.

Inner front wings - these corrode along the top, just inside the
bonnet. It's hidden from view, so even ugly welding will keep it
together.

Battery tray - acid spills cause holes.

Bonnet & rear corners - steel, but rarely cause problems.

Brake disks corrode and wear out in time, so keep on top of it. I've
just switched my front disks for vented ones from B&H engineering.
This is a DIY conversion kit for the calipers, and standard post '89
vented disks & pads. It's a dead easy job to fit, and I look forward
to testing it on Bosnia's mountain roads with a full backseats-out
load of food aid.

Chrome balls and their seals seem to last better than on Landies, and
the later rubber-lip seals are reckoned to be better than the original
leather.

Rubber suspension bushes go squidgy. Fit new ones, either rubber or
polyurethane (better ride, more vibration) and see your handling
transformed.

Steering boxes fail at around 80K. An exchange one is about 150 UK
pounds around here and not difficult to fit.

Transmissions are built noisy. The gearbox should be quiet, easy to
change gear and not prone to jumping out of gear. Transfer boxes are
always noisy under load and it's only a whining noise on the over-run
that indicates a problem. Gearboxes with 100K and above may start to
jump out of first gear.

No-one can ever agree what to lubricate the gearbox with. The manual
seems to allow anything vaguely oily (engine, hypoid, or ATF), but I
use ATF and EP90 for the transfer box.

Engines are generally reliable. At around 100K the camshaft will be
worn, the lifters will be dirty and (by repute) the inner side of the
head gasket will be starting to blow-past. It keeps running, but loses
some of the flush of youth. With appropriate rebuilding, the block,
crank and heads go on for ever. 

Oil pumps wear at around 100K. They're still OK for cruising, but oil
pressure falters when you're mud-plugging at low revs. You can either
change the pump (it's an external pump, so it's dead easy to do with
the engine in place), grind the end plate smooth again to get another
60K miles of life out it, or buy a new end-plate with a built in oil
cooler take-off from Moquip (cheaper than a new pump, and you get the
cooler fitting too). 

When changing oil, don't be tempted to mess with the pump or the
relief valve. If the pump loses its contents it won't reprime itself,
so you need to strip it and pack it with vaseline before starting.
This also requires a new pump gasket - they're dirt cheap, but not
available on a rainy Friday evening !

Take all the above information with a pinch of salt. It's only my
personal experience and biases and I've far less experience with
Landie products than many people around here.

--
PS - Thanks for all the information on propshafts !

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: British "cuisine"
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 95 11:02:19 GMT

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 27 lines)]
>       |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
>       *-----------------------------------------------------*
And therein lies the secret.Spicy grub spoils the taste of the beer!
Who says we dont know what we're doing:-)

Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: LR valve adjustment
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 11:08:34 +0000 (GMT)

Franz
Use the 'Rule of Nine' to decide which valve to adjust. Subtract the
number of the valve you want to adjust from 9, and make sure that that
valve is fully depressed. eg to adjust valve #2, make sure #7 is fully
depressed.

Cheers!
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 05:05:13 -0800
Subject: Trivia

The Discovery's code name during development I believe was project Jay.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Headliner problems
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 95 09:14:00 EST

A possible solution to the headliner problem is to use an acrylic adhesive 
such as weldbond which can be injected through the drooping liner using a 
hypodermic syringe (available from your neighbourhood agricultural supply 
store or drug dealer). I have used this method with some success on a 
Chrysler headliner. No guarantees on a quality pruduct such as RR but worth 
a try.

Trevor Easton

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 95 08:35:15 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: RR Headliner

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: RR Headliner
When I bought my '87 RR the headliner was hanging down on my head. It HAD to
be fixed. I called several upholstery places and inquired if there was a
spray that could be sprayed in. All said "no" (But I think it could be done,
although the glue might bleed through the fabric and look ugly.) I got a few
estimates and made an appointment.

A friend said he could do it if I bought the glue and material. I did, at
about $75 (US). Removal of the headliner is not that difficult, and a wire
brush works well for removing the old foam backing. BUT, my friend's best
intentions were limited by his upholstery talents, and he didn't wrap the
new liner around the edges. It looked AWFUL!! I made an appointment and
paid the $150 to have it done right.

Looking back on the experience, I think I could have done a decent job. Here
are some hints.

  *** Wire brush can be used to remove the foam backing from the old
      material liner.
  *** The hand hold straps have 2 washers (spacers) behind the inner screws
      to allow the cover to snap over the screws. (note where they come
      from)
  *** Spray a good amount of glue in the crevasses (where the headliner
      bends, around the visors, etc.)
  *** The RR headliner is WIDE and the new material will barely fit the
      width, I would suggest two or more people hold the new liner over the
      RR shell, and attach the edges first. (Once the glue touches, that's it!)
  *** You will want to wrap the new liner over the edge, 1/2" to 1" should
      be enough. Too much, and you'll have to stretch the material a lot
      to fit. Too little and you risk the edge of the material showing.
  *** Then, AFTER the edges are attached, start from the center and work
      your way towards the edges. The front and rear edges will be last.
      (assuming that you've purchased a length suitable for some waste.)
  *** Use an ice pick to punch out the screw hole locations, and to help
      align holes when replacing the screws. Larger holes (speakers and
      lights) can be cut from behind by cutting an "X" and folding the
      material back and gluing it to the back side.

I hope this helps, and you have more luck with yours than I did with mine.
For the $75 that I could have saved (had I, or my friend known what we
were doing) I'd suggest having it done professionally. Get an estimate first,
you might be surprised. Mine (doing it twice) ended up costing $225! :-(

Good luck! Feel free to call or e-mail if you need more details.

Dave Brown

#=======#          ________           We make a living by what we get,
|__|__|__\___     /__/__|__\___        we make a life by what we give.
| _|  |   |_ |}   \_/-\_|__/-\_|}
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                       Winston Churchill

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 10:35:49 -0500
Subject: Discovery fuel tank access...

You wrote: There was a big piece of rubber hanging out next to one of the
wheel wells and other bits of carpet were shoved under it. I removed the
sill that holds the carpet and pulled up and reseated everything. I was
annoyed, but I did notice that there's at least one access panel under
there, and that might be the place to check for loose wires in the future."

I managed to turn over a small cooler about a week ago and filled the cargo
space with water.  (Airborne... you say..in a 4600 lb vehicle? :-)   About a
day later when I went to clean out the back, I noticed the water and
immediately stripped the rear (of the Discovery) down to bare metal.  The
access panel covers the fuel access and is held down by 7 or 8 screws.  Being
of curious nature, I opened the hatch.  There are two fuel hoses (one supply,
one return?) and the wiring.  I pulled on the wiring to check for a good
connection and it was tight.

At least it's easy to get to!
Gerry "and his amazing airborne Disco" Elam

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 08:17:22 -0800
From: cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us (Christopher Boese)
Subject: Re: Embarrassing Discovery question ....

Andrew Smith noticed,

>There's a nice flat area shaped for an English number plate on the front
bumper but a US one is the wrong size.

Andrew, I wish I were as lucky as you to have gotten an unviolated front
bumper. On my '95 Discovery, the dealer (probably) had sloppily punched
those four holes Stuart Williams refers to and attached a bracket. That
bracket doesn't even quite hang straight, but I can't leave it off since the
holes look worse.

>From the California Vehicle Code (from http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/calaw.html):

5200.  When two license plates are issued by the department for a
vehicle, they shall be attached to the vehicle for which they were
issued, one in the front and the other in the rear.  When one license
plate is issued for use upon a vehicle, it shall be attached to the
rear thereof.

If I had an undamaged bumper, though, I'd take my chances and leave it that way.

Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 18:03:08 -0600 (CST)
From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: Rw: trivia

On a 6 cyl you can see the exhaust pipe in the left front wing right behind
the wheel.

sv/aurens

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 09:13:27 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Front license plates

On Tue, 28 Nov 1995, Christopher Boese wrote:
> Andrew Smith noticed,"There's a nice flat area shaped for an English 
  number plate on the front bumper but a US one is the wrong size".
> On my '95 Discovery, the dealer (probably) had sloppily punched
> those four holes Stuart Williams refers to and attached a bracket.(snip)

When I got my D90 in Dec.'93, there was no bracket to mount the front 
license plate (winch and brush bar on front bumper). I was advised to keep 
the plate up front under the dash and if I got stopped, explain that lics 
bracket was not yet available...new car model, etc.

A couple of months later I DID get stopped by Seattle police and got a 
$70 dollar ticket (not interested in explanation). Then attached the lics 
plate to the front grille with 4 zip ties....

Best wishes, 
David

------------------------------

From: /DDV=TRANSQUEST#b#/A3#b#/MKraieski/DDT=msdos/O=MSMAIL/P=DELTA-AIR/A=ATTMAIL/C=US/@mailport.delta-air.com
Date: 28 Nov 95 12:21:34 -0500
Subject: Disco Didn't Start

Problem: '96 Disco refused to start after lunch yesterday with 650 miles on 
the odo. Starter spun but no combustion. Fuel okay. Everything looks good. 
Hmmmm.

Solution: While deciding whether or not to call LR, I locked and unlocked 
the doors using the remote. Vehicle started as normal.

Follow-Up: Owner's manual makes reference to an "engine immobilizer" engaged 
when the alarm is enabled. A troubleshooting table lists "engine won't 
start" and recommends hitting the unlock button on the remote again.

Just as I suspected - functions as designed. Phew!

Mark E. Kraieski

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 09:16:29 -0800
From: cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us (Christopher Boese)
Subject: Re: Front license plates

David Rosenbaum recounts:

>A couple of months later I DID get stopped by Seattle police and got a 
>$70 dollar ticket (not interested in explanation). Then attached the lics 
>plate to the front grille with 4 zip ties....

That seems petty. Damn. On the other hand, I drove the predecessor to my
Discovery, an '88 Acura Integra, for seven years without a front plate, got
stopped two or three times for other things, and never was cited.

Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 10:48:02 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: Range Rover front propshafts

Yes Folks they are supposed to me misaligned -- and I think it's some 
kind of compromise setting to allow greater axle travel etc. I too notice 
a small vibration at about 25 and 50 mph, which I think is due to this. 
There is also a vibration damper fitted to the axle, also I believe 
because of this unconventional situation.

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 11:11:05 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: Re: How Are RR's Like to work on ---old vs new

Come on now Andy -- those are all good comments but what about the other 
side of the same coin? I certainly hope mine lasts for 15 years -- it has
already lasted for nearly 7 and everyone who gets into it thinks it's
brand new! 

I think the statement that the new ones are more unreliable is not 
necessarily true. For instance, carburettors are always pesky unreliable 
things that are basically a bad compromise; EFI systems get it right and 
always start (knock on wood), work upside down and are certainly no more 
unreliable than carburettors.

In general, I think newer vehicles are remarkably more reliable and often
longer lasting than older ones. Twenty or thirty years ago, the side of
the road was littered with vehicles with basic failures such as
carburettor flooding, vapour lock, no spark, broken axles, blown head
gaskets, etc -- all fairly rare today. Most engines needed valve jobs 
after 50,000 miles, and needed tappet adjustments every 5,000.

Another example is the viscous center diff lock actually reducing the 
likelihood of a broken axle, by not allowing any binding.

Both new and old have their charms, but we mustn't fall into the trap of 
trashing the new just because it uses different and hopefully better 
technology. Other things about new vehicles can indeed be criticized, but 
if we take the "fix it with a rock" argument to its logical conclusion we 
would all get out and walk.

Just a few friendly perspectives meant in good fun to enliven the debate!!

Cheers

John Brabyn
89RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 14:35:56 -0500
From: RICHARD_COLEMAN@fmso.navy.mil (RICHARD COLEMAN)
Subject: Headliner---RE: tent

         Greetings,

                Not sure of the submission address so I hope
         this makes it to the digest.
                Randall, you are not alone. Just had the
         same problem in our 90 RR. As it was explained to
         us --- the outer headliner was separating from the
         foam backing. Don't think there is a FIX. REPLACE
         is the solution. WE took ours to an auto accessory
         place and they replaced it. Almost a perfect match
         and somewhat reasonable ($175). Atlantic British
         advised that replacing the actual headliner (read
         board) is very expensive. Believe it actually
         requires removal of windshield.
                If you decide to go with recovering the
         board (like we did) make sure the person doing the
         replacement realizes that the board is 54" wide and
         he/she will have to have material that is wider
         than 54". This happened to us and they had to do
         the job twice. No charge to us of course but an
         inconvenience. I see you are in Lancaster so if you
         want to come to Mechanicsburg to get it done let me
         know and I'll give you the details.

                                       Cheers
                                       Rick
                                       90 RR (the money pit)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 12:31:48 -0800
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: RE: Discovery quality

>We've been hearing quite a bit from Discovery owners about quality
>quirks. What about the Defender 90 owners? Seems like they're not
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>D90, or just the fact that there are fewer D90's around, so we don't
>hear as much about them?

I have 49K on my D-90 and have to following problems.
1: rear tire carrier rattles.
2: the tailgate squeaks when opened.
3: water leaks in the front vents when driving 70MPH in the rain.
4: the antenna keeps breaking off when hit by tree branches.
5: the body leaks in numorous places when driving thu 2 ft of mud.
6: the hood latch cable keeps breaking.
7: the paint has funny swirls under the mud. Seems to be caused by brush.
8: door hinges rust.

Russ Burns
91 R-Rover
94 D-90

------------------------------

From: kessels.bill%ott01%c14a#@ey.geis.com
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 95 18:33:00 UTC 0000
Subject: Let it snow...

(LAN Addressees) LRO submissions

We had our first big snowfall yesterday here in Ottawa, 20-25cm (about 10
inches) and it was the first time a got the chance to drive around on the
unplowed city streets.  Awesome--I was the only guy smiling--the BFG Mud's
performed really well. I experimented with the dif locked and unlocked.  I
found I felt more solid on the road with it locked, however steering response
was not as good--I had to go slowly around corners in the deep snow or I would
just proceed in a straight line.

RE: D90 quality--I agree with the other guys--I can't hear any sqeaks over the
noise of the wind and the tires.  I have the hard top on it now, which does
quiet it down significantly.  The only problems I have had are the hood latch
(turns out there is a factory fix--they had originally routed the cable wrong)
and the passenger door latch which needed replacing.

Question:  I have noticed that I feel some resistance (or should I say,
increased resistance) when starting up from stopped, or coasting.  Could this
be a result of the below freezing temperatures here thickening up all the oil
in the Diff's, or do I likely have a seized brake caliper or problem with the
parking brake.  I do detect the occasional slight burning smell, but the thing
tracks straight, so I don't think either of the front brakes would be seized.

On another note, a guy here in Ottawa rolled his Discovery on the
weekend--travelling too fast on unfamiliar, twisting roads (those of you from
the area--he was on his way up to St. Jovite on the 323, a brutal road).

Apparently you can hardly tell he rolled it--on of the sidelight windows on
top is smashed, but that is it.  All the doors open and close.  It wasn't
really a roll, more of a flip--he landed on the roof and was left hanging
upside down in his seatbelt.  The air bags rightfully did not discharge.

Bill Kessels
94 D90 #CDN 67
kesselsb@ey.geis.com

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
//

------------------------------

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Subject: RE: Discovery quality
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 95 13:08:14 PST

| I have 49K on my D-90 and have to following problems.
| 1: rear tire carrier rattles.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
| Russ Burns
| 91 R-Rover
| 94 D-90

Sounds like nothing of mechanical nature has broken, and certainly nothing that 
kept the vehicle from running. Not bad considering you drive thru 2 feet of
mud and do 70 mph in the rain.

Regarding the door hinge rust, I've seen new D90's on the dealer's lot that
show signs of rust there after some rain. 

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: howtaw@hg.uleth.ca
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 14:17:35 MST
Subject: V8 engine

Hi, I'm looking for ideas on fueling the 3.5L V8 that I'm planning on
putting into the 110 I have under construction.
The engine was removed from a 1988 RR that was getting a 3.9L put in.
I do not have the EFI as this was used with the 3.9L.

The options that I have thought of so far are:
	-get a used EFI system (I'm not too keen on used electonics)
	-scare up the twin carb system of an older vehical
	-use a holey 390cfm
	-use a holley after market fuel injection system
Has anyone any experence with this problem?
My main concern is that I get the most reliablity for the lest dollars.
Miles to the gallon is important to but not as much.

Thanks for reading this,

Andrew Howton
1982 109 2door (soft and hard top)
1967 NADA 109 wagon (out of action due to rusted out frame)
19?? 110 2door (got most of the parts just need to build it)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 14:18:44 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: RE: Discovery quality

On Tue, 28 Nov 1995, russ burns wrote: (snip) I have 49K on my D-90 and 
have to following problems:1)rear tire carrier rattles;2)the tailgate 
squeaks when opened;3)water leaks in front vents@70MPH in the rain;
4)antenna breaks off when hit by tree branches;5)numerous body leaks 
driving thu 2 ft of mud;6)hood latch cable keeps breaking;7)paint swirls 
under the mud..caused by brush;8)hinges rust.

Dear Russ:

My D90 hasn't experienced #'s 4, 5, and 7: which must mean that I'm doing 
too much commuting and not enough trail riding!  :-(

Hood latch cable hasn't broken....yet. If it does, how do you open the hood?!

Best,
David

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 14:36:03 -0800 (PST)
From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Let it snow...

On Tue, 28 Nov 1995 kessels.bill%ott01%c14a#@ey.geis.com wrote: (snip)
> Question:  I have noticed that I feel some resistance (or should I say,
> increased resistance) when starting up... or coasting.  Could this
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> parking brake.  I do detect the occasional slight burning smell, but the thing
> tracks straight, so I don't think either of the front brakes would be seized.

Dear Bill,
Sometimes my D90 seems to drag and has a slight burning smell. Last 
weekend when it happened, I felt the front discs and they were HOT, but 
it hasn't happened since, yet. Like you, tracking is straight. 
It is raining and 50's in Seattle (has been for the last month or so 
here) so cold isn't a factor...
For now, I'll just continue to keep track of it.

Best,
David

------------------------------

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 18:02:07 -0500
Subject: Interesting site

(Please forgive me if this was already posted!)

Found an interesting site at
"http://www-e1c.gnn.com/gnn/meta/travel/features/lovedu/index.html" about an
adventrue from London to Africa.  Make for interesting reading.... it is
about a group looking for a place where women rule.  (No smart-a$$
comments.......)

There is a fair picture of their Landy and on the first link there's this:
"How could I blame him? After all, the equipment was my department. The Land
Rover was his. He'd rushed out and bought it last spring, without consulting
me, while I was in Ladakh, and he'd been working ever since on certain
improvements and adaptations. He'd developed a proprietary interest in the
creature he habitually referred to as "the vehicle." Like a librarian who
hates to see readers messing about with the books, he didn't want me
overburdening his vehicle with my precious gear."

Boy does that sound familiar!!!

Gerry "Stuck in AZ enjoying the 65 degree weather" Elam
'95 Disco: LKY 138 

More: "And a lovely vehicle it is. Built in 1980. Strong. No nonsense. Meant
to survive. But painted -- for reasons about which I hesitate to inquire --
blue. Not navy blue, which might make sense, but a peculiar robin's-egg
shade, like the sashes and doors of many English cottages. It came that way.
But Muggleton installed a hardtop of pale creamy yellow, and along the top
edge of the roof, he bolted the sand ladders which (in a fit of matching) he
painted the same peculiar blue as the body of the Land Rover. They look
rather like a decorative border of rickrack, or window boxes from which
geraniums might peep. In
short, Muggleton had transformed this army surplus tank wannabe into a honey
semblance of an English cottage on wheels. When he suggested making curtains
for the back windows, for safety's sake, my first thought was floral chintz.
"

There are some other comments that are funny too!

------------------------------

Date: 28 Nov 95 18:10:12 EST
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Trivia

My last few mail submissions have not appeared in the digest so I must be using
the wrong address. 
 trying a different one I'll make my trivia answer to the external differences
between the 4 and 6 cyl vehicles, assuming that the vehicles are standard, the 6
cylinder has a larger dia exhuast pipe ( muffler ) than the 4 cyl and the exit
angle is different.
  The gearbox cross member is further back on the six than on the four.

 regards  Bill Leacock   Limey in exlie.

------------------------------

From: ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 20:09:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Trivia etc.

Well, to answer yesterday's trivia, the Discovery's codename was "Project 
Jay."  And since noone got what I was getting at in terms of the unique 
aspect of a 109" 6 cyl., I'll add this clue - think wheelwell... think 
exhaust...

  For today's trivia, there are many correct answers, but try and name at 
least 4 things that were unique to some of the Santana Land Rovers (the 
more obscure the better!).

 Today at work I got a glimpse of the name of our Lan (Local area network)
computer - the "LanRover."  Considering the frequency with which my 
terminal goes down, I can say to some degree of certainty that Lucas must 
be the parent company!

Frank Twarog
Burlington, VT  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Nov 1995 23:38:56 -0500 (EST)
From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu>
Subject: Re: Trivia etc.

Actually,
I can't think of anything right off the top of my head other that the 
whole front facia, and I think the powertrain was spanish, or was it 
rover 6?

The reason I am questioning is this:  Are there any Santana's in the US?  
if so, where and how did they come in?
thnx
steve

	_________________________________
	|_______|_______|_______|_______|	"Moose"
	|   ____________    |	   |	\\	'73 III 88"
	|  /  	  |	\   |  	   |	 \\      ________
     	|  |	  |	|   |	   |	  \\    |        |
	|  \______|_____/   |______|_______\\___|________|__
	|___________________|_______________|---------------\
	|  []    []    []   |		    | 0		    |)
	|                   |--]	    |               |		
       _|    /	 OOOOO      |		    |      OOOOO    |__
      |_|____I OO o o OO ___|_______________|___ OO o o OO ____|
	   0  OO o 0 o OO			OO o 0 o OO
	       OO  o  OO     "Tread Lightly"     OO  o  OO
              	 OOOOO				   OOOOO
       		           Florida Rover Canvas
	Steve Swiger   
	swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu
	(813) 874-5391
	(813) 253-0905 (Work)

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Disco Didn't Start
From: david@stat.com (David Dodell)
Date: Tue, 28 Nov 95 21:51:00 MST

/DDV=TRANSQUEST#b#/A3#b#/MKraieski/DDT=msdos/O=MSMAIL/P=DELTA-AIR/A=ATTMAIL/C=US writes:

> Problem: '96 Disco refused to start after lunch yesterday with 650 miles on 
> the odo. Starter spun but no combustion. Fuel okay. Everything looks good. 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> Solution: While deciding whether or not to call LR, I locked and unlocked 
> the doors using the remote. Vehicle started as normal.

I had a similiar problem, but this didn't solve it.

First tank of gas on my '96 Disco and the vehicle wouldn't restart.
Tried resetting the alarm, etc with no luck.  A friend of mine who owns
a Defender came over, reached under the driver's side rear wheel and
unplugged and replugged the electric fuel pump ... it appears that it
wasn't making a good electrical connection.

Started right up after this.

David

---
Internet: david@stat.com                 FAX: +1 (602) 451-6135
WWW: http://www.stat.com/~david

------------------------------

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