[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | Rob Bailey [baileyr@cuug | 18 | Junket pudding... |
2 | Lloyd Allison [lloyd@cs. | 37 | propshafts |
3 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 37 | Re: Junket pudding... |
4 | Andy Dingley [dingbat@co | 15 | Range Rover rear body crossmember |
5 | Marit & Bjornung [bjjen1 | 225 | Range Rover front propshaft |
6 | Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti | 54 | Wanted: good used 88" frame |
7 | "Gerald" [g@ix.netcom.co | 19 | "rough" idle in auto Disco |
8 | howtaw@hg.uleth.ca | 20 | Rovers for Sale |
9 | jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.c | 26 | Dormobile home page |
10 | carley@manly.civeng.unsw | 18 | Re: Range Rover front propshaft |
11 | alanch [alanch@ibw.com.n | 13 | [not specified] |
12 | Inkornoink@aol.com | 24 | Re: Land Rover for sale |
13 | William Caloccia [calocc | 26 | lro / trip |
14 | GARCAY@aol.com | 7 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
15 | "Steven Swiger (LIS)" [s | 36 | Rover V8 q's. |
16 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 26 | Re: New type of gas guage |
17 | Oscar M [omont@mnl.seque | 15 | Upper tailgate NAS RR '89 |
18 | dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu | 29 | Re: Rover V8 q's. |
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 00:43:12 -0700 (MST) From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca> Subject: Junket pudding... Well, this may not be too related to Land Rover's, so if the discussion of chilled puddings offends you, go to the next message. I just thought that with the large number of people on this list residing in the UK, I might be able to find out whether Junket pudding still exists. I believe that it is English, but I could be wrong. It is strawberry and vanilla, etc... flavoured pudding that is like a cross between gelatin and yogurt. Mmmm, sounds terrible, but it is quite good. I haven't been able to find it in years, and even the British shops just kind of stare at me when I ask for it! Does anybody know what I'm talking about, or am I just remembering childhood hallucinations and slowly going insane? Rob ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 20:41:45 +1100 (EST) From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au> Subject: propshafts consider a propshaft to be an input shaft, a joint, a centre shaft, a joint, an output shaft generally the angles input:centre and centre:output are equal and opposite. Then the two uni-joints (if such they be) need to be in-phase to avoid vibration. However, if the output:centre shafts are in line, as is very nearly the case on the Rangie I believe, the phasing won't make any difference. The Rangies come with a wierd "phasing" and some say it makes a difference but I can't see why. The Disco's get away with a flexible rubber disc at the rear diff' (reminiscent of the Lotus Elan (?) rubber dough-nuts) cos the centre:output shafts are nearly inline. Strictly speaking if the angles input:centre and centre:output are not equal then both joints should be of the C.V. type, but if the angles are small it doesn't matter much. On the SIII-stage-1, input and output are not quite parallel and the car comes with a CV (double Hookes) at the transfer case end - it is almost invariable replaced with a single Hookes (uni) when it fails. The 101 is the vehicle that *really* needs in-phase uni-joints. I have a small Pascal program (on the web) to play around with deflection and phase angles. The Disco and RRII have rubber-mounted weights bolted to the noses of their diff' housings, presumably as vibration dampers. Do they actually do anything? ie. do you notice if they fall off? Lloyd ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 26 Nov 95 9:17:05 EST Subject: Re: Junket pudding... Actually, I've seen something labeled Junket (tm) pudding mix oin the shelves of grocery stores here in the States, at least in New England. I'll eyeball for it next I'm in a grocery store.... I believe, though, that all this is is another brand of the Jell-Oish cooked puddings that proliferate down here. Hang on, lemme have a look in my old cookbooks..... >From "The Joy of Cooking", used without permission: Rennet Pudding or Junket: Put into the bowl in which the pudding will be served: 2 cups milk, warmed to exactly 98 gegrees F. Add 2 teaspoons sugar. Stir in 2 teaspoons essence of rennet or 1 teaspoon prepared rennet. (2 teaspoons brandy optional) Let the pudding stand for approximately 1.5 hours until it coagulates. Sprinkle with cinnamon or nutmeg and serve cold. Personally, were I to cook this, I would add the prepared fruit mix when the milk went in, at the same temperature (heat them together). The vanilla is a simple substitution for the brandy. Alan P.S.: I have said it before, and I will say it again: The British do not have cuisine, they simply have food.....8*) ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk> Subject: Range Rover rear body crossmember Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 14:01:06 GMT Owing to rust problems, I need to replace the rear body crossmember in my Rangie. This is the box channel that forms part of the steel tailgate frame. I have the replacement section (from Bearmach), so I guess I need to unbolt body panels until I reach it, then weld the new one in. Anyone done this before ? Any advice ? Thanks ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Marit & Bjornung <bjjen13b@telepost.no> Subject: Range Rover front propshaft Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 21:50:51 +-100 Andy Dingley wrote Nov 25 and were worried about the front propshaft on his Range Rover. He suspected that he had two halves from different shafts. Stefan R. Jacob tended to agree the same day. I can probably clarify what seems to be an error! All front propshafts on Range Rovers (to my knowledge, at least from 1986-onwards) are assembled with the rear yoke leading the front yoke by two splines!!!! I cannot say for sure the reason for this, but for a propshaft to totally eliminate the variation in angle velocity on the center shaft, during rotation, from being transferred to the output side, the inclination of the shaft in and out must be the same. This is not the case for the front propshaft on a Range Rover. The first time I have seen this mentioned in any Land Rover litterature is in the following Service Bulletin from 1986. At the same time Land Rover introduced the "front driveline vibration damper", the large piece of metal assembled to the front diff on many Range Rovers. I believe the phasing introduced to the propshaft is to eliminate harmonics set up in the front driveline. The following bulletin is very handy for sorting out vibrational problems. This is re-typed from: Land Rover/Range Rover Service Bulletin August 1986 (Bulletin 08/86) Item 527 RR 86 MY 51/54 VIBRATION DIAGNOSIS The following is intended as an aid for the diagnosis and solution of vibration problems on 1986 model year Range Rovers. When investigating complaints of vibration in the vehicle, it is important that the vehicle is assessed in a logical manner, so that, by a process of elimination, it is possible to determine the exact source of the problem. Therefore the first part of this bulletin gives a step by step sequence for the diagnosis of vibration sources and their elimination. Before initiating any investigation, however, check the vehicle to ensure that the cause is not due to an obviously simple fault. For example: check that all engine and gearbox mountings are of the correct specification and are correctly fitted; check that all exhaust mountings are correctly fitted, in particular check that there is no metal to metal contact between the mountings and the body; check the torque of the propshaft drive flange bolts, the universal joints for excessive play and transfer box and differential bearings for excessive wear. If your initial investigations do not identify a problem it will be necessary to carry out the following procedure, which will involve some testing of the vehicle. NOTE Should it be found at the outset that several vibrations are evident at different road or engine speeds, each must be treated individually. It is highly unlikely that the vibrations will be due to the same problem and therefore each will require a separate cure. Similarly, if a vehicle is found to be suffering from a particularly harsh vibration, it may not be possible to detect other, less noticeable vibra tions which may exist. However, once the primary vibration has been eliminated, the secondary vibration, which again will only be evident at different road or engine speeds, will then become prominent. Again each vibration must be treated separately, allowing the causes to be isolated and the necessary remedial action taken. RANGE ROVER VIBRATION DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE 1. Road test the vehicle. Does the problem always occur at the same road speed irrespective of the gear selected? (SEE NOTE A). YES: CHECK 2. NO: Confirm that the problem occurs at the same engine RPM in all gears. CHECK 21. 2. Does the problem occur at 30-50 mph (48-80 km/hr) in all the available gears? YES: Check that the front propshaft is correctly phased. The rear yoke must lead the front yoke by two splines. Fit correctly if necessary and re-test. If problem persists CHECK 3. NO: CHECK 9. 3. Mark the drive flange and remove the front propshaft, engage the diff lock and re-test. Has the vibration been eliminated? YES: CHECK 4. NO: Check balance of front and rear wheel and tyre assemblies, using ON-CAR balancing equipment. Check that tyres have even wear characteristics with no evidence of flat spots. If wheels and tyres OK Check 19. 4. Check drive flanges (front output drive flange and front differential pinion flange) for eccentricity and run-out. (SEE NOTE B). Do the flanges conform to the tolerances? YES: CHECK 7. NO: CHECK 5. 5. Replace the flange(s). Recheck the eccentricity and run-out. Does the flange(s) conform to tolerances? YES: CHECK 6. NO: Fit 2nd replacement flange. Recheck eccentricity and run-out. If tolerances are still incorrect, the differential unit (or alternatively the transfer box) is suspect and should be checked separately. If tolerances correct CHECK 6. 6. Re-test the vehicle with the front propshaft fitted. Is problem still evident? YES: CHECK 7. NO: ------. 7. Substitute a replacement propshaft from a donor vehicle and Re-test. Is the problem still evident? YES: CHECK 8. NO: Replace propshaft with new unit (or leave on donor unit). 8. Fit the vibration damper assembly to the front axle, (see Attachment 1). (The attachment contains some figures. For further information, please contact Internet E-mail address: bjjen13b@telepost.no).Refit the front propshaft and road test. Is the problem still evident? YES: Repeat diagnosis. NO: ------. 9. Does the problem occur at 80-80 mph (112-129 kph) in ALL the available gears? YES: Check that the rear propshaft is correctly fitted. The front and rear yokes must be IN LINE. There should be no phase difference. Realign if necessary and re-test. If problem persists, check ALL wheel and tyre assemblies for balance. If problem still evident CHECK 10. NO: CHECK 19. 10. Mark the drive flanges and remove the rear propshaft. Secure the transmission brake drum with the propshaft flange nuts. With the differential lock engaged, re-test the vehicle. Is the problem still evident? YES: CHECK 11. NO: CHECK 15. 11. Remove the transmission brake drum and re-test. Is the problem still evident? YES: Cause of problem is unknown. Re-check diagnostic procedure. NO: CHECK 12. 12. Check the rear output flange on the transfer box, where the DRUM SITS, for eccentricity and run-out (See NOTE B). Does the flange conform to the tolerances? YES: The handbrake drum is suspect and must be replaced with a known good component. Then CHECK 15. NO: CHECK 13. 13. Replace the output flange and recheck the eccentricity and run-out. Does the flange conform to the tolerances? YES: CHECK 14. NO: Fit 2nd replacement output flange. Recheck eccentricity and run-out. If tolerances still incorrect, transfer box is suspect, and should be checked separately. If tolerances correct CHECK 14. 14. Refit the original handbrake drum and secure to flange with propshaft nuts. Re-test the vehicle without the propshaft fitted. Is problem still evident? YES: The handbrake drum is suspect and must be replaced with a known good component. Then CHECK 15. NO: CHECK 15. 15. Check the rear differential pinion flange for eccentricity and run-out. (See NOTE B). Does the flange conform to the tolerances? YES: CHECK 17. NO: CHECK 16. 16. Replace the flange. Recheck the eccentricity and run-out. Does the flange conform to the tolerances? YES: CHECK 17. NO: Fit 2nd replacement flange. Recheck eccentricity and run-out. If tolerances are still incorrect, the differential unit is suspect, and should be checked separately. If tolerances correct CHECK 17. 17. Re-test vehicle with rear propshaft fitted. Is problem still evident? YES: CHECK 18. NO: ------. 18. Substitute a replacement propshaft from donor vehicle and re-test. Is the problem still evident? YES: CHECK 20. NO: Cause of problem is unknown. Recheck fault diagnosis procedure. 19. If the vehicle has a manual gearbox, does the problem occur at 30-50 mph (48-80 kph) in all the available gears except 4th gear. YES: CHECK 20. NO: Cause of problem is unknown. Recheck fault diagnosis procedure. 20. Disconnect the front propshaft. Re-test with the differential lock engaged. Is the vibration still evident or is it worse? YES: If this is confirmed, main gearbox is suspect, and should be investigated separately. NO: RE-CHECK 2. 21. Are the correct engine mountings fitted? Current production usage:- Part no 566222 (colour coded yellow spot) for front engine mountings. Part No NRC 9154 (colour coded white spot) for rear engine mountings. (See also Service Bulletin 11A/85, Item 1). YES: CHECK 22. NO: Fit new engine mountings and re-test. If problem persists CHECK 22. 22. Remove the water pump drive belt. Test the vehicle statically by revving the engine in neutral. In order to avoid any overheating of the engine, DO NOT prolong the test. Does the problem remain? YES: CHECK 24. NO: CHECK 23. 23. Replace the fan and viscous drive unit, by substitution with known components from a donor vehicle. Refit the drive belt. Re- test the vehicle statically. Is the problem still evident? YES: Replace water pump. NO: ------. 24. Replace the electronic control unit by substitution with a known unit from a donor vehicle. Does the problem still exist? YES: Cause of problem is unknown. Recheck fault diagnosis. If the vehicle is an automatic, check torque converter balance (see Attachment 2). (The attachment contains some figures. For further information, please contact Internet E-mail address: bjjen13b@telepost.no). NO: ------. Bjornung Jensen, bjjen13b@telepost.no ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar) Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 14:58:50 -0600 Subject: Wanted: good used 88" frame Well people, the adventure begins. I got the green light from my wife to go ahead and find a frame for my '66 IIa 88 as sort of a christmas present. As some of you know, this started as a brake project. However, as I got into it, I realized that unless I find a frame, there is no point in putting another dime into this vehicle. I started getting scared at what I was seeing happeining around the spring mounts. Even if I fixed the brakes, I would worry about every manhole cover I drove over. Then in a year I'd be taking the whole thing apart again. Ladies and gentleman, I got screwed. The only way I'm not going to take a $2000 hit on this truck is to restore it. I believe the motor and tranny are fine - compression is good and it has lots of power. But my story is akin to the saga of the guy in the last RN newsletter. I didn't know what I was doing when I bought it and I'm paying the price. Ok, so enough sob story. Time to get on with it. I love this truck anyway and want to save it. Its got all the classic rot problems. I need a frame and bulkhead. I need to get them used because I cannot afford the nice, new galvanized ones. Basically, I need to see what I can do for $1000. I won't be able to save up the extra $2000 for new ones and the time it would take would sap all my energy anyway. I'm willing to travel to get one, but I have to include my travel costs in the $1000 tag (I have my father-in-law's Suburban to pull a trailer, but I may have to rent a trailer) - I'm in Minneapolis Minnesota. I hope I'm not dreaming - the couple of feelers I put out for used frames before seem to tell me that I might be able get these for around $800. Comments? Anyone have one? I've heard I should avoid used frames freshly painted as the paint might hide the real story. Opinions on this? My santa list just took some major restructuring to fill in some holes in my tool collection. I have a good compressor and assorted tools at my disposal. All in all, I think I am ready to take on this project. I have the Leslie Porter book now, I plan on getting every book I can find on Series LR mechanicals, and I have the support of my spouse (the biggest thing). If anyone wants to help, I'll put you up and feed you while you stay - put that in your '96 vacation plans :-) Call it the " 'Net Restoration Project." Thanks a lot, Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com> Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 17:39:59 -0500 Subject: "rough" idle in auto Disco My wife noticed a "rough" idle in our 96 North American Disco with automatic transmission. I'm not sure I would have seen it if she did not point it out. When the engine has warmed up the tach is going up and down maybe 50 rpm. The rpm are changing every few seconds. Anyone else have this? An RR driver waved at me and of course I waved back. All the other 5 LR's I saw that day were parked. -- Gerald g@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: howtaw@hg.uleth.ca Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 19:10:48 MST Subject: Rovers for Sale My freind, Iver Wild, requested that I post some Rovers he is selling. There are three Rovers and some different parts avilable: 101 exmilitary foward control 109 pickup righthand drive (I forgot what ser) 88 exmilitary airportable (lightweight) A wide range of used parts (I think he has some engines and trans) The goods are in Sundre Alberta Canada. Iver's #'s are (403)638-2189 (403)638-2400 and fax (403)638-2602 Sorry he's not on Email. Andrew Howton: howtaw@hg.uleth.ca ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 18:20:55 -0800 From: jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us (john hess) Subject: Dormobile home page Hello everyone, I have put together a www home page to provide information about Dormobiles. Although I have a Land-Rover Dormobile, the page has photos of other kinds of Dormobiles as well as information about the Dormobile club. Please investigate and provide feedback. I am interested in: 1) contacting other L-R Dormobile owners 2) displaying pictures of other Dormobiles 3) Acquiring Dormobile parts for myself and for other Dormobile owners who need them The Home page URL: http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html Thanks, jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us from home via modem Land- -Rover, Sunbeam Tiger and Mazda owner! ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 95 13:24:43 EST From: carley@manly.civeng.unsw.EDU.AU (James Carley - WRL Staff) Subject: Re: Range Rover front propshaft G'day all from Oz, My first reply after a short burst of lurking. I happened to be reading my workshop manual on Fri 24, in contemplation of a swivel hub seal replacement and as a byline noticed the statement that the front driveshaft yokes are not meant to line up (at least for a 110). I'm the contented owner of a 1985 110 with a factory fitted (in Australia only) Isuzu 3.9L diesel. So far 250000 km at 11 L/100 km. James Carley 110 County 3.9D ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 21:10:10 -0600 Subject: LR Discovery tdi 1995 From: alanch <alanch@ibw.com.ni> I own a 1995 Discovery tdi and would like to install wider tires such as Pirelli Scorpion 255/65/16 tires, Will they fit? Also, I would like to install the stereo that comes with the US version. Is it Pioneer or Blaupkunt. Can someone tell me the make and model number? Last, does K&N filters make an air filter for the 300 tdi engine, if so please give me the item number from K&N? ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Inkornoink@aol.com Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 22:46:26 -0500 Subject: Re: Land Rover for sale Some one asked about a Hunter Rangie.... Looking thru the Chicago Tribune's Sunday Classified's, I came across this: 91 - Hunter Green w/ Tan cloth $19,995 Knauz of Lake Forest, Illinois 708+234-1700 Hope that this is helpful...I have no info on Knauz's Dealership...nor about this vehicle... Happy Trails, Hank Gregory 1990 RR c (Moby) Inkornoink@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@OpenMarket.com> Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 23:02:12 -0500 Subject: lro / trip >I am writing this because of a trip that I am about to undertake over >Christmas. This past summer a friend of mine and myself met a Brit couple [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] >let me know- I am leaving December 18, 1995. I am also interested to find out >how to become a member of LRO.Thanks. I'd expect most folks would be willing to hear about the trip (assuming it isn't boring or offensive to the members from the people republic of berkeley, and has something to do with rovering :-) As for joining the list, you've been added as a member of the daily digest, but it gets big, so be sure to at least empty out your mailbox periodically. Cheers, --bill caloccia@OpenMarket.com http://www.senie.com/billc/ 1 3 R dl OD L "Land Rover's first, because |--|-+ o | | Land Rovers last." 2 4 ul N H '63 IIa, '72 & '90 Range Rover (customs) UK & USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: GARCAY@aol.com Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 23:55:57 -0500 Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest unsubscribe lro-digest ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 00:16:00 -0500 (EST) From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu> Subject: Rover V8 q's. Howdy all, ran into a gent in orlando this weekend that has 2 rover 3500 salons. One he wants to sell as a parts car... Still has the rover v8 in it. Anyone know if this is the same v8 that will mount directly to the front end of a IIa tranny? if so, what is a reasonable going price for a running engine, and how much modification needs to be done to the engine bay of a IIa to fit the chunk of metal? All help greatly appreciated...... thnx steve _________________________________ |_______|_______|_______|_______| "Moose" | ____________ | | \\ '73 III 88" | / | \ | | \\ ________ | | | | | | \\ | | | \______|_____/ |______|_______\\___|________|__ |___________________|_______________|---------------\ | [] [] [] | | 0 |) | |--] | | _| / OOOOO | | OOOOO |__ |_|____I OO o o OO ___|_______________|___ OO o o OO ____| 0 OO o 0 o OO OO o 0 o OO OO o OO "Tread Lightly" OO o OO OOOOO OOOOO Florida Rover Canvas Steve Swiger swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu (813) 874-5391 (813) 253-0905 (Work) ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 22:12:14 +0000 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: New type of gas guage ?? <DREAD@gnn.com> writes: :Recently, I discovered a new way to determine how much gas is in :the tank of my '71 SIIa 88" LR (LIC# TKACHNC). When at a gas :station while filling it up, I look on the ground and when a puddle :of gas starts to appear, I know the tank is full! Rather :inconvenient if one is near an open flame. : :I assume that the seal between the fill tube and the tank is :broken. However, I'm not sure how to a) determine exactly where :the crack is and b) seal same. It might also be leaking from the pickup tube or the fuel sender on the top of the tank, both of which are gasketed and may just need tightening of the screws. ______ Michael Carradine [__[__\== Rumpole of the Bay 510-988-0900 [________] Land-Rover 4x4 cs@crl.com ___________.._(o)__.(o)_____...o^^^+++++ '65 IIA 2.235m/88" _________________________________________________________________________ Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 14:21:59 +0800 From: Oscar M <omont@mnl.sequel.net> Subject: Upper tailgate NAS RR '89 Can anyone tell me whether the upper tailgate of a NAS '90 will fit a NAS '89. Mine's rusting and would like to replace with an upper tailgate having the 3rd brake light. Thanks guys. Oscar omont@mnl.sequel.net 75247.2423@compuserve.com Philippines ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Rover V8 q's. Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 17:20:32 +1030 (CST) Steve asks re: 3500 V8's > Anyone know if this is the same v8 that will mount directly to the front > end of a IIa tranny? I dont know about "mount directly" but there are adapter plates and conversion kits available here in OZ, and probably more in the UK. The only manufacturer I know of on-line is Marks 4WD http://www.ozemail.com.au/~marks4wd Check out Lloyds 4x4 magazine http://www.sofcom.com.au/4WD/4WD.html and look for the excellent article by Andrew Maeder for more info.. > and how much modification needs to be done to the engine bay of a > IIa to fit the chunk of metal? I dont know but there are/were V8 conversion LRO's on the net, come on guys 'fess up. Should I really try to find a series 1 to put that 4.4L V8 I've got in the shed into.. ( polution control regs killed the idea of fitting it to the stage 1) cheers -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951127 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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