[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
| msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
| 1 | janjan@xs4all.nl (Jan Sc | 27 | Re: Elec. Fans |
| 2 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 27 | Re: Range Rover front propshaft |
| 3 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 202 | Re: Colored Wire |
| 4 | "Soren Vels Christensen" | 35 | RE: Manifold Bolts/Studs 2.25 l - Info? |
| 5 | Johnny Hansen [Johnny_Ha | 15 | Hello |
| 6 | Roy_H._Caldwell@desktop. | 23 | London Visit |
| 7 | OscarM [omont@mnl.sequel | 23 | RR aftermarket spoiler and air vent cover |
| 8 | "John Y. Liu" [johnliu@e | 11 | Inertial Reel Seat Belts |
| 9 | twei@mail.eye.utmem.edu | 50 | LR D110 + other comments |
| 10 | "John Y. Liu" [johnliu@e | 22 | How Are RR's Like To Work On? |
| 11 | "John Y. Liu" [johnliu@e | 24 | Series I For Sale |
| 12 | FHYap@aol.com | 11 | LRNA Marketing |
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 16:43:41 +0100 From: janjan@xs4all.nl (Jan Schokker) Subject: Re: Elec. Fans Thanks for your answers, everyone, I wrote: >> has an enourmous oil-cooler in front of the radiator. Then Stefan answered: >In that case you would obviously need one mounted behind the rad. On the >other hand I wouldn't remove the propeller from a military model with [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >on how close the propeller is running to the radiator, there might not be >much room left for an additional electric fan. But: My fan has four small blades, and is only abt. 36 cm in diameter. Does this make it a non-military model? If so, how big is a military fan? If I would remove the fan, there is 7 cm clearance between the fanpulley and the radiator. That should be enough for an electric fan, right? Thanks, Jan S. (Not Jan B.) janjan@xs4all.nl Amsterdam, the Netherlands ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951126 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 25 Nov 95 11:25:12 EST From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Range Rover front propshaft > yokes on my shaft don't line up - is this normal ? Every other Cardan > shaft I've ever seen keeps the spiders in alignment. And so they should be. Obviously the sliding joint has been apart, to say the least. But then you go on saying... > When I compare the alignment marks (stamped arrows), the two halves > appear to be aligned correctly. This is what makes me suspect I have > two halves of different shafts. I'm afraid your suspicion is probably right. As for vibrations, if the vibes are up front and go into the front diff, you most likely wouldn't feel them as you have the entire suspension + shocks between you and the axle. The destruction would be 'silent'. You might feel the steering wheel 'buzzing' a bit at high speeds. If the vibes are at the transfer case side of things, again you wouldn't feel much as the massive T-case rubber mounts would swallow most; but there should be a noticeable vibration of the diff lock lever in that case. Stefan <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951126 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 14:18:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Colored Wire
On 24 Nov 1995, Robert Dennis wrote:
> This reminded me, does anyone know of a source for multicolored wire? I know
> lots of sources for single color wire, but none that has a colored tracer.
> Preferably in the US.
There is a place at the bbottom of this, but you might as well have
the whole mess...
Rgds,
Dixon
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE Black All earth connections
Black Brown Tachometer generator to tachometer
Black Blue Tachometer generator to tachometer
Black Red Electric or electronic speedometer to sensor
Black Purple Tempreature switch to warning light
Black Green Relay to radiator fan motor
Black Light green Vacuum brake switch or brake differential
pressure valve to warning light and/or buzzer
Black White Brake fluid level warning light to switch and
handbrake swith, or radio to speakers
Black yellow Electric speedometer
Black Orange Radiator fan motor to thermal switch
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE Blue Lighting switch (head) to dip switch
Blue Brown Headlamp relay to headlamp fuse
Blue Red Dip switch to headlamp dip beam fuse Fuse to
right-hand dip headlamp
Blue Light green Headlamp wiper motor to headlamp wash pump motor
Blue White a) Dip switch to headlamp main beam fuse
b) Headlamp flasher to main beam fuse
c) Dip switch main beam warning light
d) Dip switch to long-range driving light switch
Blue Yellow Long-range driving light switch to lamp
Blue Black Fuse to right-hand main headlamp
Blue Pink Fuse to left-hand dip headlamp
Blue Slate Headlamp main beam fuse to left-hand headlamp
or inboard headlamps when independently fused
Blue Orange Fuse to right-hand dip headlamp
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE Brown Main battery lead
Brown Blue Control box (compensated voltage control only) to
ignition switch and lighting switch (feed)
Brown Red Compression ignition starting aid to switch Main
battery feed to double pole ignition switch
Brown Purple Alternator regulator feed
Brown Green Dynamo 'F' to controlboxl
'F' Alternator field 'F' to control box 'F'
Brown White Ammeter to control box Ammeter to main alternator
terminal
Brown Yellow Alternator to 'no charge' warning light
Brown Black Alternator battery sensing lead
Brown Slate Starter relay contact to starter solenoid
Brown Orange Fuel shut-off (diesel stop)
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE Green Accessories fuesed via ignition switch
Green Brown Switch to reverse lamp
Green Blue Water temperature gauge to temperature unit
Green Red Direction indicator switch to left-hand flasher lamps
Green Purple Stop lamp switch to stop lamps, or stop
lamp switch to lamp failure unit
Green Light green Hazard flasher unit to hazard pilot lamp
or lamp failure unit to stop lamp bulbs
Green White Direction indicator switch to right hand flasher lamps
Green Yellow Heater motor to switch single speed (or to
'slow' on tow- or three-speed motor)
Green Black Fuel gauge to fuel tank unit or changeover
switch or voltage stabilizer to tank units
Green Pink Fuse to flasher unit
Green Slate a) Heater motor to switch ('fast' on two-
or three-speed motor)
b) Coolant level unit to warning light
Green Orange Low fuel level switch to warning light
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE Light green Instrument voltage stabilizer to
instruments
Light green Brown Flasher switch to flasher unit
Light green Blue a) Flasher switch to left-hand
flasher warning light
b) Coolant level sensor to control unit
c) Test switch to coolant level control unit
Light green Red Fuel tank changeover switch to right-hand
tank unit or entry and exit door closed
switch to door actuator
Light green Purple Flasher unit to flasher warning light
Light green Green Start inhibitor relay to change speed
switch; or switch to heater blower motor
second speed on three-speed unit
Light green White Low air pressure switch to buzzer and
warning light
Light green Yellow Flasher switch to right-hand warning light;
or differential lock switch to differential
lock warning light
Light green Black Front screen jet switch to screen jet motor
Light green Slate Fuel tank changeover switch to left-hand tank
unit; or entry and exit door open switch to
door actuator
Light green Orange Rear window wash switch to wash pump; or cab
lock-down switch to warning light
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE Orange Wiper circuits fused via ignition switch
Orange Blue Switch to front screen wiper motor first speed
timer or intermittend unit
Orange Green Switch to front screen wiper motor second speed
Orange Black Switch to front screen wiper motor parking
cicuit, timer or intermittent unit
Orange Purple Timer or intermittent unit to motor parking circuit
Orange White Timer or intermittent unit to motor parking circuit
Orange Yellow Switch to headlamp or rear window wiper motor feed,
timer or relay coil
Orange Light green Switch to headlamp or rear window wiper
motor parking circuit timer or relay coil
Orange Pink Timer or relay to headlamp or rear window wiper
motor feed
Orange Slate Timer or relay to headlamp or rear window wiper
motor parking circuit Pink white Ballast terminal
to ignition distributor
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE Purple Accessories fed direct from battery
via fuse
Purple Brown Horn fuse to horn relay when horn is fused
separately
Purple Blue Fuse to heated rear window relay or switch
and warning light
Purple Red Switches to map light, under bonnet light,
glove box light and boot lamp when fed direct from
battery fuse
Purple Green Fuse to hazard flasher
Purple Light green Fuse to relay for screen demist
Purple White Interior lights to switch (subsidiary circuit
door safety lights to switch)
Purple Yellow Horn to horn relay
Purple Black Horn to horn relay to horn push
Purple Pink Rear heated window to switch or relay
Purple Slate Aerial lift motor to switch up
Purple Orange Aerial lift motor to switch down
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE Red Main feed to all circuits mastered by
sidelamp switch
Red Brown Rear fog guard switch to lamps
Red Blue Front fog lamp fuse to fog lamp switch
Red Purple Switches to map light, under bonnet light,
glove box light and boot lamp when sidelamp
circuit fed
Red Green Bulb failure unit to right-hand-side and rear
lamps
Red White a) Sidelamp fuse to right-hand side and rear lamps
b) Sidelamp fuse to panel light rheostat
c) Fuse to panel light switch or rheostat
d) Fuse to fibre optic source
Red Yellow Fog lamp switch to fog lamp or front fog fuse
to fog lamps
Red Black Left-hand,sidelamp fuse to side and tail lamps
and number plate illumination
Red Pink Sidelamp fuse to lighting relay
Red Slate Lamp failure unit to lef-hand side and tail lamps
Red Orange Fusebox to rear fog guard switch Slate
Window lift main lead
MAIN TRACER PURPOSE White Ignition switch or starter solenoid
to ballast resistor
White Brown Oil pressure switch to warning light or gauge,
or starter relay to oil pressure switch
White Blue Choke switch to choke solenoid (unfused) and/or
choke to switch to warning light, or electronic
ignition distributor to drive resistor
White Red Starter switch to starter solenoid or inhibitor
switch or starter relay or ignition (start position)
to bulb failure unit
White Purple Fuel pump no 1 or right-hand to changeover switch
White Green Fuel pump no 2 or left-hand to changeover switch
White Light green Start switch to starter interlock or oil
pressure switch to fuel pump or start inhibitor
switch to starter relay or solenoid
White Yellow Ballast resistor to coil or starter solenoid
to coil
White Black Ignition coil contact breaker to distributor
contact breaker, or distributor side of coil
to voltage impulse tachometer
White Pink Ignition switch to radio fuse
White Slate Current tachometer to ignition coil
White Orange Hazard warning lead to switch Yellow
a) Overdrive
b) Petrol injection
c) Door locks
d) Gear selector switch to starter
There is one place that carries the whole all this wire:
British Wiring Inc
20449 Ithaca
Olympia Fields, IL 60461
(708) 481-9050 voice & fax
------------------------------
[ <- Message 4 -> end
| Table of Contents
| <- Digest 951126 ->
Archive Index
| <-
Browser ->
]Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 22:35:34 -0600 (CST) From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk> Subject: RE: Manifold Bolts/Studs 2.25 l - Info? In message Fri, 24 Nov 1995 18:36:06 -0800, jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) writes... ...about manifolds. When i rebuilthe head a short time ago i took off the manifolds. Maninly because a stud broke at the exhaust exit (annoying isn't it?). Bolts and studs were pretty rusty so i ordered a complete set of bolts and a an integrated gasket with the new ex-manifold. If yours is a sIII you might prefer to use the two metal gaskets again (only if they are undamaged). Use studs at the top centre hole and at the sides (top holes). Studs are great for guideing the preassembled manifolds on with the gaskets already hanging on the studs. Then just use long bolts in deep holes etc. It's dark here too but i seem to remember a short bolt centre-bottom. The butterfly washers land on the easily recognisable platforms on the underside. Only use enough studs to guide. Bolts are a lot easier to get out five or more years from now. And use a good quality copper grease. Not cheap stuff that has more grease than copper in it. PBC (PolyButylCuprysil) is three times as expensive as Duckhams copper grease, but it's almost like thick liquid copper. And most brands are lead free nowadays. Oh, and don't put it on the end of the studs/bolts. Thread only. Good luck. sv/aurens ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951126 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Johnny Hansen <Johnny_Hansen@dk-online.dk> Subject: Hello Date: Sat, 25 Nov 95 21:48:11 +0000 (GMT) Hello all I'am new at all this. I have had Internet acces for 10 days, and I bought my first Land Rover this summer. It's a SIII 109" Diesel, from 1982. I have found a lot of good things here, and expect to participate with somethings in the future. I am a member of the Danish Land Rover Klub. ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951126 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 95 17:55:02 -0700 From: Roy_H._Caldwell@desktop.org (Roy H. Caldwell) Subject: London Visit I will be in the London area from Dec 10 to the 19th. I was hoping to get some pointers on some quality parts places to drop by. Sig othr will limit me to two or three. I will actually be in the Twickenham area. I wanted to drop by Brownchurch and Merseyside but also wanted to drop by one place that might have more used parts. I am specifically looking for bits and pieces for the soft top sticks. Any suggestions? I would appreciate any suggestions? I do have a rental and can get some where that is not to far out of the way. The rest of the family does not share my addiction to Rovers. Thanks. Roy - Rovers in the Rockies -- ......................................................................... WestNet is the Online Community for People with a Passion for this Place. Modem: 406-442-3697 (28,800/8-N-1) Info via Internet: westnet@desktop.org Sponsored by Desktop Assistance, Inc. Info via Internet: info@desktop.org ......................................................................... ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951126 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 10:38:01 +0800 From: OscarM <omont@mnl.sequel.net> Subject: RR aftermarket spoiler and air vent cover Alan Smedley writes: > I have seen pictures of a very nice looking moulded aftermarket "spoiler" > which fits over the roof on the back of the Range Rover, also forming a wind > deflector for the back window. >>It is part of a kit designed by TWR (Tom Wilkinshaw (sp??) Racing) who just happen >>to be one of the Local Land Rover dealers. The specific photo you refer is of a RR with plate __TOM 4__, as featured in the March '94 issue of Off Road and 4 Wheel Drive. TWR Special Vehicle Operations is at Station Field Industrial Estate, Kidlington, Oxford OX5 1JD, Tel 0865 842220. Oscar Montelibano omont@mnl.sequel.net 75247.2423@compuserve.com Philippines ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951126 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 18:56:19 -0800 From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net> Subject: Inertial Reel Seat Belts In my SIIA 109 3-door the inertial reel for the 3-point belt is bolted to a steel plate which is in turn mounted vertically and bolted through the galvanized capping at the front corner of the bed. The other end of the belt is anchored to the floor by the side of the seat box, and the latch/female end is anchored to the trailing edge of the seat box top with a steel plate and 8 bolts. ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951126 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 23:57:31 -0600 From: twei@mail.eye.utmem.edu (Ted Wei, Jr.) Subject: LR D110 + other comments Hello everyone! I've been reading the LRO Digest for over a year, and I finally purchased a White 1996 Discovery last month and loving every mile! a couple of questions and comments.. 1. I'm having some water leaking problems in the passenger rear speaker area. They resealed the alpine windows once before, and it'll go in again this week to find the culprit. Anyone with similar problems? 2. The body panel fit on the Disco is not even comparable to my late model audi or girlfriend's Infiniti, any comments? 3. what type of gas mileage are people getting? 4. Discussion on the Defender board on AOL state that LR is bringing back the D110 for 1996. Are these rumors true? Anyone have a price range? How reliable are these? 5. Is there a LR Owners club/group in the Memphis ( home of the king) area? 6. I want to start a collection of Digitized (Quicktime) Disco commercials and possibly by permission from LR have them available on the internet via ftp. Anyone have video clips from the earlier commercial on VHS they can lend to me? Any suggestions or help on collection would be much appreciated. If you've got one, please let me know! Thanks Ted Wei, Jr. Memphis, TN ___ '96 Discovery wanting a D110! ___ Ted Wei, Jr., MD University of Tennessee, Memphis Department of Ophthalmology 956 Court Ave Suite 301 Memphis, TN 38163 (901) 448-5883 twei@mail.eye.utmem.edu medmac@aol.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951126 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 21:06:48 -0800 From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net> Subject: How Are RR's Like To Work On? I'm toying with the idea of selling my Series IIA and getting a used Range Rover -- about 5 years old with about 80-100K mile, given my price range. But I've never worked on a RR and have never owned one before, so I'd appreciate it if the RR owners on the list could tell me: 1. How are RR's to work on? Can you do most jobs as DYI without a shop's worth of "special tools"?. Is there room to reach in and work? Are things generally understandable? I'm not intending to rebuild the transmission or anything like that, but would like to be able to do the sorts of repairs I've done on the LR -- brakes, swivel balls, bearing, busted halfshafts, propshafts, etc. 2. What do folks think about a 5 year old US-spec RR with 80K miles on it? Is that too many miles? Do they start to have lots of problems at that age? 3. What areas of the vehicles give problems the most? What areas should I look at? Is there a good inspection guide available? ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951126 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 21:06:45 -0800 From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net> Subject: Series I For Sale A guy I know told me of a Series I sitting in a "farmer's backyard" in Arizona for sale. He got some photos and info but decided not to pursue it, so he passed the photos on to me. I don't have the facilities for a restoration at present, so I am passing the info on to the list. The photos show a Series I SWB. The owner's note describes it as a "1958 88 inch". The truck is blue with a white hardtop including the two piece rear door. The body has a fair number of dents and the whole thing would probably be a restoration job. The front wings are "just set on, but all the parts are with it" (per the owner's note.) I was told that my buddy's friend (who found the truck in the first place) talked to the owner and was informed that the latter would take $1,000 for the truck. If anyone wants the owner's name and address, just contact me. (I'm reluctant to "publish" it on the list since I've not received permission to do so.) Caveat: I have neither seen the truck nor spoken with the owner, and so don't take any of my info as gospel. Sorry, I don't have the equipment to electronically transmit the photos, and they don't show much more than what I've just described. ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951126 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: FHYap@aol.com Date: Sun, 26 Nov 1995 00:28:24 -0500 Subject: LRNA Marketing See Business Week, November 20, 1995, page 152. The Ralph Lauren of Car Dealers: Land Rover Centres sell boots, safari suits - and yes, cars. I have heard of the term Chinese Wall but I'm not sure what is a Chinese Whisper. ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951126 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST
Input: messages 11 lines 624 [forwarded 23 whitespace 121]
Output: lines 579 [content 367 forwarded 21 (cut 2) whitespace 121]
Forward
Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved.
Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
Bill Caloccia,
All rights reserved.