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msg | Sender | lines | Subject |
1 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 33 | Re: Clutch problem on LR90 |
2 | sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM | 20 | petrol leaks |
3 | Richard Jones [rich@apri | 18 | LR related Email addresses |
4 | MRGATE%OUVAX.dnet@ouvaxa | 132 | Message Router delivery notification message |
5 | Donald Abbot [donald@spl | 12 | Re: 2.25 Fuel Pump Condition/Rebuild or new? |
6 | Mr Ian Stuart [Ian.Stuar | 22 | Re: greasing leaf springs |
7 | Donald Abbot [donald@spl | 16 | Re: More Hub & Brake Q's |
8 | Steve Temple [temples@cs | 25 | Clutch problem on LR90 |
9 | o.evans@latrobe.edu.au ( | 47 | Alternator woes, WAS Current leakage problem |
10 | "barnett childress" [bar | 6 | re:The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
11 | Peter Kutschera [peter@z | 28 | Re: Alternator woes, WAS Current leakage problem |
12 | ASFCO@aol.com | 10 | National Rally |
13 | "Steve Methley" [sgm@hpl | 20 | Re: Clutch problem on LR90 |
14 | rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A | 25 | Re: Re: Children / Airbags |
15 | "Steve Methley" [sgm@hpl | 31 | Re: Alternator woes, WAS Current leakage problem |
16 | Mark.Kraieski@mailport.d | 34 | Schizophrenic Turn Signals |
17 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 23 | I need a step up... |
18 | "R. Pierce Reid" [70004. | 119 | Installing rear seats - repost |
19 | "christian (c.j.) szpilf | 38 | re:The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
20 | Marcus Haas [marcus@dcs. | 14 | Unimog URL |
21 | benedick@pa.net (KRIS/DA | 12 | Subscribe LR Daily Digest & Owner List |
22 | ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi | 41 | Tim Hariner hub questions |
23 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 25 | Re: 109" Frame Plans? |
24 | "Brazelle, Amy (TRW)" [b | 35 | Steering Stabilizer |
25 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 19 | Re: Re: Children / Airbags |
26 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 25 | Re: Re: Children / Airbags |
27 | Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti | 44 | Hub Rebuild, con't... |
28 | Treit Le [Treit_Le@appri | 12 | Wind noise |
29 | Ray Harder [ccray@showme | 46 | my mid-life crisis |
30 | Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu | 76 | The Retro Fit Air(or Gas)Bag |
31 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 82 | Relative dangers to the LR/RR owner... |
32 | "Jon Moody (BME)" [mood@ | 18 | Range Rover... |
33 | "T.F. Mills" [tomills@du | 25 | Re: National Rally |
34 | jjbpears@ix.netcom.com ( | 17 | Re. Oil Filled Hub |
35 | Robert Dennis [73363.427 | 31 | Hub Rebuild, con't... |
36 | Dixon Kenner [dkenner@em | 44 | Re: Relative dangers to the LR/RR owner... |
37 | sm095re@unidui.uni-duisb | 75 | Virus alert !!! |
38 | Mr Ian Stuart [Ian.Stuar | 24 | Re: I need a step up... |
39 | Mr Ian Stuart [Ian.Stuar | 17 | Re: 2.25 Fuel Pump Condition/Rebuild or new? |
40 | wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy | 41 | Re: a cradle to roll a vehicle |
41 | Roger Sinasohn [sinasohn | 25 | Re: full cash refund |
42 | RICKCRIDER@aol.com | 86 | Selling My 109" (Repost) |
43 | o.evans@latrobe.edu.au ( | 34 | Re: Alternator woes |
44 | 7direct@inch.com (alain | 11 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
45 | dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu | 33 | Re:children/airbags/mothers in-law |
46 | dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu | 32 | Oil filled hubs (still) |
47 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 11 | Re: Hub Rebuild, con't... |
48 | Wdcockey@aol.com | 16 | Re: 109" Frame Plans? |
49 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 28 | Re: Oli filled hub! |
50 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 31 | Re: What is this Window Channel Stuff |
51 | dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu | 35 | Re:Oil filled hubs. |
52 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 46 | Re: I need a step up... |
53 | ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi | 17 | axle housings |
54 | DEBROWN@SRP.GOV | 25 | Squeak in steering column... of my 109! |
55 | Ross Leidy [ross@secant. | 24 | Question of std equip on 95 NAS D90 |
56 | John Brabyn [brabyn@skiv | 36 | Re: Range Rover... |
57 | Doug.Forehand@Eng.Sun.CO | 61 | Discovery Winch bulletin |
58 | "Mark Talbot" [Land_Rove | 10 | What has it come too !!!! |
59 | Jeff_Scott@tvo.org (Jeff | 11 | brakes |
60 | Robert Dennis [73363.427 | 43 | Steering Stabilizer |
61 | beesley@primenet.com (Br | 32 | Re: California on the LRO List |
62 | Chris Haslam [haslam@alc | 10 | RR: Lubricating the Speedometer Cable |
63 | Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO | 17 | Subject: What is this Window Channel Stuff |
64 | rpeng@cadev6.intel.com | 21 | RE: Discovery quality |
65 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 22 | Re. Oil Filled Hub |
66 | jjbpears@ix.netcom.com ( | 35 | Weird Wiring Combos 2.25l p wiring |
67 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 27 | Re: Center diff woes become ... |
68 | "Stefan R. Jacob" [10004 | 17 | Re: What is this Window Channel Stuff |
69 | Mike Rooth [M.J.Rooth@lu | 10 | Re: Center diff woes become ... |
70 | wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy | 17 | Re: Discovery Winch bulletin |
71 | Ron Taylor [rtaylor@coil | 17 | Re:Virus alert !!! |
72 | "Seymour, Gareth" [GSeym | 7 | subscribe |
73 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 17 | Frames |
74 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 24 | Re: Hub Rebuild, con't... |
75 | Harincar@mooregs.com (Ti | 30 | One-Man Brake Bleeder |
76 | "Stephen Miller" [BOMILC | 18 | Springs on 88 RR |
77 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 22 | Re: One-Man Brake Bleeder |
78 | Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D | 23 | Inertia Reel Belts |
79 | Treit Le [Treit_Le@appri | 13 | Dealer Part Prices in England |
80 | David Rosenbaum [rosenba | 30 | Re: Question of std equip on 95 NAS D90 |
81 | David Rosenbaum [rosenba | 39 | RE: Discovery quality vs. NAS D90 |
82 | C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.u | 38 | Re: Virus Alert ("Good Times") is a hoax ... |
83 | "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak | 47 | Re: I need a step up... |
84 | cs@crl.com (Michael Carr | 39 | Re: Steering Stabilizer |
85 | "TeriAnn Wakeman" [twak | 37 | Re: Virus alert !!! |
86 | MFIELD@MOHAWK.WIC.EPA.GO | 7 | Subscription |
87 | MFIELD@MOHAWK.WIC.EPA.GO | 32 | Land Rover for sale |
88 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 20 | Re: What has it come too !!!! |
89 | "Tom Rowe" [TROWE@AE.AGE | 18 | US Holiday |
90 | DREAD@gnn.com () | 7 | LRO Digest for 11/22 |
91 | sm095re@unidui.uni-duisb | 13 | sorry ! |
92 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 40 | Camel Trophy Trials |
93 | "Walter C. Swain" [wcswa | 27 | Re: Springs on 88 RR |
94 | Roger Sinasohn [sinasohn | 29 | Discovery models (toys) |
95 | Roger Sinasohn [sinasohn | 32 | [not specified] |
96 | howtaw@hg.uleth.ca | 18 | Land Rovers in Southern Alberta |
97 | "Richard Lucking" [BU063 | 39 | Re: Wierd Wiring....! |
98 | mfarrall@well.ox.ac.uk ( | 19 | Re: One-Man Brake Bleeder |
99 | ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi | 24 | Chassis selection |
100 | ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi | 12 | welcome |
101 | Alan Smedley [alans@mpx. | 21 | Re: RR Heated windscreen |
102 | Alan Smedley [alans@mpx. | 21 | Re: RR aftermarket spoiler and air vent cover |
103 | Alan Smedley [alans@mpx. | 27 | Re: RR fuel economy - why so bad? |
104 | Alan Smedley [alans@mpx. | 29 | Re: Oil Consumption |
105 | Marcus Haas [marcus@dcs. | 11 | Wiring looms |
106 | wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy | 24 | LRO went mad again!? |
107 | "Anthony Verriello" [ver | 49 | Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest |
108 | LANDROVER@delphi.com | 43 | Re: New type of gas guage |
109 | Richard Jones [rich@apri | 41 | Re: RR aftermarket spoiler and air vent cover |
110 | "Steve Methley" [sgm@hpl | 13 | Re: RR fuel economy - why so bad? |
111 | chrisste@clark.net (Chri | 30 | Turkey And The Window Channels |
112 | cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chri | 20 | Re: LR related Email addresses |
113 | SLYKDYK@aol.com | 11 | Re: extended warranties ...Disco's |
114 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 19 | Steppin' in with an idea... |
115 | rover@pinn.net (Alexande | 21 | Window channel |
116 | Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus [A | 30 | Re: I need a step up... |
117 | Mark Ritter [70472.1130@ | 11 | Looking for RR |
118 | Robert Dennis [73363.427 | 30 | Colored Wire |
119 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 28 | [not specified] |
120 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 30 | [not specified] |
121 | rthomas@postoffice.ptd.n | 47 | Headliner, EFI, Help! |
122 | jjbpears@ix.netcom.com ( | 49 | Manifold Bolts/Studs 2.25 l - Info? |
123 | ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi | 14 | Thanks |
124 | jjbpears@ix.netcom.com ( | 24 | Alternator Mounting - Aargh |
125 | Benjamin Allan Smith [be | 45 | [not specified] |
126 | Andy Dingley [dingbat@co | 27 | Range Rover front propshaft |
Date: 24 Nov 95 03:40:05 EST From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Clutch problem on LR90 >year old, 95k mile, 90 diesel? >The problem is that sometimes the clutch disengages at varying >depressions of the pedal. In some cases it will barely disengage even >with the pedal hard down on the floor. The point at which the pedal Steve, I don't want to be the male counterpart of Kassandra, but your clutch symptoms are potentionally of a serious nature (not in terms of money, but of a lot of work and dirty fingers). The problem could be the clutch release lever inside the bell housing (I'll just call it like that; you know, this fork-like thingy which is pushed by the slave cyl. and rests on this pivot ball). Well, on 90's/110's/Defenders (not on RR's and Discos, astonishingly) between '84 and '93 with 4-cyl. engines and LT77 or LT77S gearbox, this component was not made from solid cast iron anymore, but from thick profiled sheet metal. This sheet metal component has a limited lifespan and will withstand only so many declutchings before the round depression sitting on the steel pivot ball will suffer material fatique and give. The metal gradually bulges, rips, and ultimately the pivot ball punches right through, at which point your clutch pedal is dead on the floor... In your case you seem to be experiencing the first symptoms of this process. You _might_ be lucky, of course, and all you have is a hydraulic problem which I would check and repair first - but then again... dare I say it... YMMV Stefan <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM Date: Fri, 24 Nov 95 10:34:11 GMT Subject: petrol leaks Hi, I wouldn't try to repair the damaged pipe. I'd replace it. Petrol is evil stuff and will eat through most pipes eventually. It the pipe is rotten enough to leak in one place the rest can't be much better. I wouldn't take the chance. As far a fuel consumption goes 9 MPG is pretty poor. I had to drive my 2.25 very hard to get it down to that level. I assume you have a 2.25 as the 2.6 never made it to a SWB. I used to get 15-20 MPG on normal driving, but is was fairly easy to get less. An average of 9 sounds like a problem (like fuel leaking from the tank???!!). Cheers, Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com> Subject: LR related Email addresses Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 11:02:03 +0000 (GMT) Chris Youngson writes: > Range Rover Register: http://www.apricot.co.uk/reI3/directory/rrr/index.html ^ | This is a lower case L (l) not an upper case (I) -------- __ _ __ Apricot Computer Limited ' ) ) / 3500 Parkside Tel: (+44) 121 717 7171 /--' o _. /_ Birmingham Business Park Fax: (+44) 121 717 0123 / <_<_(__/ <_ BIRMINGHAM B37 7YS Richard Jones United Kingdom Email: richardj@apricot.mee.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 06:36:37 EST From: MRGATE%OUVAX.dnet@ouvaxa.cats.ohiou.edu Subject: Message Router delivery notification message RE Message ID: G20400D8223NOV199504201995 UA content ID: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Generated by node: LANCE Attempted delivery to: Route : @A1 <-- Userid : ROLLINSM Arrival date : 23-NOV-1995 08:20 This delivery failed. Failure reason was "transfer failure". Diagnostic was "message purged by operator". Message-id: G20400D8223NOV199504201995 From: MX%"Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com"@OUVAX@MRGATE@OUVAX Subject: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest To: ROLLINSM@A1@OUVAX Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 02:55:11 -0500 From: owner-lro-digest@uk.stratus.com Subject: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Land-Rover-Owner List & Land Rover Owner Daily Digest List Send submissions to the list to: lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net To UNSUBSCRIBE send a message to: MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net with the text: unsubscribe lro-digest Tell your friends SUBSCRIBE send a message to: MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net with the text: subscribe lro-digest Majordomo can also respond to other commands, send text: help Contents: 1 donald@spl.co.za Tue Nov 21 03:21 26/1223 Re: 2.25 Fuel Pump Condit 2 Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk Tue Nov 21 03:51 41/2134 Re: greasing leaf springs 3 donald@spl.co.za Tue Nov 21 04:33 29/1414 Re: More Hub & Brake Q's 4 temples@cs.man.ac.uk Tue Nov 21 05:58 33/1450 Clutch problem on LR90 5 o.evans@latrobe.edu.au Tue Nov 21 06:04 64/3208 Alternator woes, WAS Curr 6 barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com Tue Nov 21 07:03 14/881 re:The Land Rover Owner D 7 peter@zditr1.arcs.ac.at Tue Nov 21 07:37 46/1734 Re: Alternator woes, WAS 8 ASFCO@aol.com Tue Nov 21 07:58 16/1052 National Rally 9 sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com Tue Nov 21 08:13 34/1688 Re: Clutch problem on LR9 10 rvirzi@gte.com Tue Nov 21 08:25 40/1879 Re: Re: Children / Airbag 11 sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com Tue Nov 21 08:29 45/2130 Re: Alternator woes, WAS 12 Mark.Kraieski@mailport.delta-air.com Tue Nov 21 08:41 55/2663 Schizophrenic Turn Signal 13 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com Tue Nov 21 08:45 36/1764 I need a step up... 14 70004.4011@compuserve.com Tue Nov 21 08:46 130/6158 Installing rear seats - r 15 chrisz@bnr.ca Tue Nov 21 08:56 56/2839 re:The Land Rover Owner D 16 marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk Tue Nov 21 09:07 31/1539 Unimog URL 17 benedick@pa.net Tue Nov 21 09:26 24/1161 Subscribe LR Daily Digest 18 ecrover@midcoast.com Tue Nov 21 09:37 52/3274 Tim Hariner hub questions 19 TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU Tue Nov 21 09:37 46/1995 Re: 109" Frame Plans? 20 brazelle@hsv.mdc.com Tue Nov 21 09:42 47/2475 Steering Stabilizer 21 dkenner@emr1.emr.ca Tue Nov 21 09:49 33/1437 Re: Re: Children / Airbag 22 TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU Tue Nov 21 09:50 45/2061 Re: Re: Children / Airbag 23 Harincar@mooregs.com Tue Nov 21 10:07 57/2520 Hub Rebuild, con't... 24 Treit_Le@apprise.com Tue Nov 21 10:51 26/1690 Wind noise 25 ccray@showme.missouri.edu Tue Nov 21 11:04 58/2867 my mid-life crisis 26 M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk Tue Nov 21 11:18 87/4918 The Retro Fit Air(or Gas) 27 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com Tue Nov 21 11:22 105/3811 Relative dangers to the L 28 mood@rad.unc.edu Tue Nov 21 11:34 34/1469 Range Rover... 29 tomills@du.edu Tue Nov 21 11:50 38/1915 Re: National Rally 30 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com Tue Nov 21 11:51 25/1211 Re. Oil Filled Hub 31 73363.427@compuserve.com Tue Nov 21 11:58 43/2013 Hub Rebuild, con't... 32 dkenner@emr1.emr.ca Wed Nov 22 03:37 58/2252 Re: Relative dangers to t 33 sm095re@unidui.uni-duisburg.de Wed Nov 22 04:25 90/4157 Virus alert !!! 34 Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk Wed Nov 22 04:25 45/2208 Re: I need a step up... 35 Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk Wed Nov 22 04:25 38/1940 Re: 2.25 Fuel Pump Condit 36 wassili@AMC.UVA.NL Wed Nov 22 04:25 61/2876 Re: a cradle to roll a ve 37 sinasohn@crl.com Wed Nov 22 04:25 37/2004 Re: full cash refund 38 RICKCRIDER@aol.com Wed Nov 22 04:26 96/4788 Selling My 109" (Repost) 39 o.evans@latrobe.edu.au Wed Nov 22 04:28 51/2364 Re: Alternator woes 40 7direct@inch.com Wed Nov 22 04:30 22/1257 Re: The Land Rover Owner 41 dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au Wed Nov 22 04:29 49/2512 Re:children/airbags/mothe 42 dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au Wed Nov 22 04:30 45/2130 Oil filled hubs (still) 43 Wdcockey@aol.com Wed Nov 22 04:30 17/1155 Re: Hub Rebuild, con't... 44 Wdcockey@aol.com Wed Nov 22 04:30 22/1539 Re: 109" Frame Plans? 45 LANDROVER@delphi.com Wed Nov 22 04:30 41/2006 Re: Oli filled hub! 46 LANDROVER@delphi.com Wed Nov 22 04:31 44/2182 Re: What is this Window C 47 dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au Wed Nov 22 04:31 48/2407 Re:Oil filled hubs. 48 LANDROVER@delphi.com Wed Nov 22 04:31 58/2590 Re: I need a step up... 49 ecrover@midcoast.com Wed Nov 22 04:33 28/1599 axle housings 50 DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Wed Nov 22 04:33 35/1646 Squeak in steering column 51 ross@secant.com Wed Nov 22 04:34 35/1557 Question of std equip on 52 brabyn@skivs.ski.org Wed Nov 22 04:43 51/1828 Re: Range Rover... 53 Doug.Forehand@Eng.Sun.COM Wed Nov 22 04:47 77/2764 Discovery Winch bulletin 54 Land_Rover@msn.com Wed Nov 22 04:47 20/970 What has it come too !!!! 55 Jeff_Scott@tvo.org Wed Nov 22 04:49 22/1129 brakes 56 73363.427@compuserve.com Wed Nov 22 04:49 55/2735 Steering Stabilizer 57 beesley@primenet.com Wed Nov 22 04:49 45/2207 Re: California on the LRO 58 haslam@alcor.concordia.ca Wed Nov 22 04:50 20/1090 RR: Lubricating the Speed 59 grea@net.gov.bc.ca Wed Nov 22 04:51 24/1336 Subject: What is this Win 60 rpeng@cadev6.intel.com Wed Nov 22 04:52 35/1866 RE: Discovery quality 61 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com Wed Nov 22 04:52 37/1890 Re. Oil Filled Hub 62 jjbpears@ix.netcom.com Wed Nov 22 04:52 44/2335 Weird Wiring Combos 2.25l 63 100043.2400@compuserve.com Wed Nov 22 06:14 37/2072 Re: Center diff woes beco 64 100043.2400@compuserve.com Wed Nov 22 06:15 27/1305 Re: What is this Window C 65 M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk Wed Nov 22 06:44 22/1007 Re: Center diff woes beco 66 wassili@AMC.UVA.NL Wed Nov 22 07:37 35/1607 Re: Discovery Winch bulle 67 rtaylor@coil.com Wed Nov 22 07:48 31/1407 Re:Virus alert !!! 68 GSeymour@mp.sihe.ac.uk Wed Nov 22 07:53 19/887 subscribe 69 TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA Wed Nov 22 08:59 33/1731 Frames 70 TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU Wed Nov 22 09:18 44/1941 Re: Hub Rebuild, con't... 71 Harincar@mooregs.com Wed Nov 22 09:49 43/1921 One-Man Brake Bleeder 72 BOMILCAR@msn.com Wed Nov 22 10:16 25/1394 Springs on 88 RR 73 TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU Wed Nov 22 10:47 41/1795 Re: One-Man Brake Bleeder 74 TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA Wed Nov 22 10:50 39/2236 Inertia Reel Belts 75 Treit_Le@apprise.com Wed Nov 22 10:55 26/1727 Dealer Part Prices in Eng 76 rosenbau@u.washington.edu Wed Nov 22 11:23 45/1981 Re: Question of std equip 77 rosenbau@u.washington.edu Wed Nov 22 12:06 53/2609 RE: Discovery quality vs. 78 C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.uk Wed Nov 22 12:08 53/2484 Re: Virus Alert ("Good Ti 79 twakeman@apple.com Wed Nov 22 12:32 57/2862 Re: I need a step up... 80 cs@crl.com Wed Nov 22 12:39 53/2732 Re: Steering Stabilizer 81 twakeman@apple.com Wed Nov 22 12:43 46/2315 Re: Virus alert !!! 82 MFIELD@MOHAWK.WIC.EPA.GOV Wed Nov 22 13:41 13/681 Subscription 83 MFIELD@MOHAWK.WIC.EPA.GOV Wed Nov 22 13:53 38/1867 Land Rover for sale 84 Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com Wed Nov 22 15:02 38/1602 Re: What has it come too 85 TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU Wed Nov 22 18:02 37/1481 US Holiday 86 DREAD@gnn.com Wed Nov 22 18:38 19/1024 LRO Digest for 11/22 87 sm095re@unidui.uni-duisburg.de Wed Nov 22 19:30 26/1416 sorry ! 88 rover@pinn.net Wed Nov 22 20:30 55/2530 Camel Trophy Trials 89 wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us Thu Nov 23 00:24 41/2211 Re: Springs on 88 RR 90 sinasohn@crl.com Thu Nov 23 02:12 41/1660 Discovery models (toys) ------------------------------[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 10:24:33 +0200 (GMT+0200) From: Donald Abbot <donald@spl.co.za> Subject: Re: 2.25 Fuel Pump Condition/Rebuild or new? On Fri, 17 Nov 1995, Jeremy Bartlett wrote: > Discos now? :) I'm still here - owner of 1 x Series II and 1 x Series III. Donald ------------------------------[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 08:27:39 +0000 Subject: Re: greasing leaf springs On 21 Nov 95, Simon Barclay wrote: > I was reading in the official Land Rover Ltd Series 1 workshop manual > that you should strip and grease (with graphite grease) the springs, [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > This was in reference to a major overhaul and didn't seem to refer to > regular intervals as suggested with the Bentley's. I regularly (basically just after I've power-washed the muck of the chassis) paint old EP90 onto my springs. It *does* make a difference - road trips are much smoother & when offroading the axles flex more (and more evenly) ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> ------------------------------[ <- Message 7 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 11:36:53 +0200 (GMT+0200) From: Donald Abbot <donald@spl.co.za> Subject: Re: More Hub & Brake Q's On Mon, 20 Nov 1995, Tim Harincar wrote: > - How critical are the brake drum screws? All three of mine on this side are > sheared off. Grrrr. I was considering taking the hub to a machine shop and > having them drilled out & re-tapped. Is it worth it? I found that a metal scribe could be used to remove the part of the screw left in the hub. The screw is no longer under tension and should come out easily. Donald ------------------------------[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 10:57:11 GMT From: Steve Temple <temples@cs.man.ac.uk> Subject: Clutch problem on LR90 Hi All, Can anyone offer some advice on diagnosing a clutch problem on my 9 year old, 95k mile, 90 diesel? The problem is that sometimes the clutch disengages at varying depressions of the pedal. In some cases it will barely disengage even with the pedal hard down on the floor. The point at which the pedal starts to provide resistance to pressure moves around over time and is currently half-way to the floor. There is no problem with the hydraulic fluid level so I suspect something wrong with either the pedal/master cylinder linkage (I hope) or slave/clutch plate mechanism (oh dear!). Anyone have any experience of such problems or have any suggestions? Thanks, --Steve ------------------------------[ <- Message 9 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 22:03:33 +1000 From: o.evans@latrobe.edu.au (Owen Evans) Subject: Alternator woes, WAS Current leakage problem Hello all, I asked the list about my problem wih minor but constant and annoying current leakage in my SIIa 1971. I had several helpful responses, for which I am grateful, together with all the usual variants on leakage and LR. Well, that was to be expected. Surprisingly, no Lucas stories, but this might change. I decided to check out whatever I could in the engine compartment (I'd have said under the bonnet, but in the vein of international communication . . .). My first target was a black bakelite box on the bulkhead called Alternator Control (Lucas 4.T.R. Patented Observe Polarity). I pulled the "plug" on this (actually a block incorporating 4 quick connect terminals). Result, no leakage problem! Further checking showed that most of the connections went to (surprise) the alternator. So I suspected the alternator. Reconnected the alternator control, and disconnected the alternator at source. Leakage still present, so problem appears to be with this Alternator Control. Now those more into the Trivia end of things will be asking, as I am, SIIa and an alternator?, and what's this control box? My manual shows the SIIa with a dynamo, and the SIII with alternator, but no Alternator Control box. Moreover, the alternator in question is Lucas 15AC, not one listed in my book even for a SIII. So, there's every likelihood that a PO has made some mods here, but does anyone have any clues on the Alternator Control box? Is it needed for this alternator? It certainly looks genuine, but anything in ancient black bakelite with Lucas on it can't help but look genuine. My inclination is to throw out this control box, but I await (LRO) infinite intelligence. Owen Evans SIIa 1971 Alfa 33 Quattro 1985 Jerome K Jerome wrote, in Three Men on the Bummel, that there were two ways to enjoy a bicycle, you could either ride it, or you could take it apart and put it back together again. What a LR foresight! ------------------------------[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 7:05:31 EST From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%Eng%EMCHOP1@fishbowl02.lss.emc.com> Subject: re:The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Index lro digest ------------------------------[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 13:37:13 +0100 From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditr1.arcs.ac.at> Subject: Re: Alternator woes, WAS Current leakage problem Hello! The "Alternator Control" is used to controll the output voltage of the alternator. It should have 3 connections: D+, D- and DF. No idea abouth the 4th line, any label? If you remove the box you would (should?) not get any current out of the alternator. If you replace the box with a wire (D+ to DF I think - not sure) you will overload your battery. A new control box should not cost so much. ( I think I also need a new one - at max RPM I only get 13V out of the alternator, but 16V are required to fill the battery to the top and it starts getting cold. At idle I get only 9 V ! ) Hope this helps Peter Signature: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/ Landrover: http://zditr1.arcs.ac.at/~peter/LR ------------------------------[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: ASFCO@aol.com Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 07:57:17 -0500 Subject: National Rally All; I Need to know who is in charge of the National Rally this August in Colorado. EXACT Dates for the rally are also needed.........If Daddy wants to go play..... Mommy has to know by tomorrow , she has to pick her '96 vacation then. Thanks. Steve WA2GMC 72 slll 88 ------------------------------[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 13:14:17 +0000 Subject: Re: Clutch problem on LR90 Steve asks: >Can anyone offer some advice on diagnosing a clutch problem on my 9 >year old, 95k mile, 90 diesel? Well it sure sounds like your cylinder seals are failing. Since the slave sees the most temperature cycling I'd go for that one. It's quite easy to change - buy a new unit for 30 quid or so at your sort of mileage for peace of mind since the cylinder may well be scored by now. It's a common replacement item on RR's like mine which have similar clutch hydraulics to your 90. -- Best Regards, Steve. ------------------------------[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 08:25:52 -0500 From: rvirzi@gte.com (Robert A. Virzi) Subject: Re: Re: Children / Airbags Jean wrote: ". . . the November 17 (vol 44/45) issue of the Morbidity and Mortality Weekly report has an article on the use / safety of airbags in front with small children. The article lists 8 airbag related deaths with apparently at least one in a rearward facing seat." Please don't take offense, but this is a meaningless statistic. It ignores the prior odds of the kids being killed without the airbag. About the only statistic that really matters is whether or not the child is more or less likely to be hurt/killed in an airbag equipped car than in a similar car without. No safety device is perfect. The point is to reduce risk, and the 8-killed statistic doesn't speak to the issue. If I told you that eight children were killed in accidents while in car seats in the same period of time, would you conclude that car seats are dangerous? I would hope not. -Bob Virzi rvirzi@gte.com Think Globally. === +1(617)466-2881 === Act Locally! ------------------------------[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 13:29:39 +0000 Subject: Re: Alternator woes, WAS Current leakage problem Owen's alternator leakage: >My inclination is to throw out this control box, but I await (LRO) infinite >intelligence. :set mode infinite intelligence What you have is a common regulator failure mode on an alternator with a now uncommon external regulator. 15AC means your alternator o/p will be something like 15amps and there is no regulator inside the alternator. Your best bet is to replace with a 17ACR/21ACR/25ACR alternator which has higher o/p and an internal Regulator courtesy of the modern world. The regulator rectifies the alternator o/p and regulates the o/p current via the field winding current. Your regulator rectifier pack has one or more bad diodes (there are most likely 6 diode rectifiers inside) which are allowing current to leak in the reverse direction. You may also find your charging capacity is below par too. :unset mode infinite intelligence good luck, -- Best Regards, Steve. ------------------------------[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mark.Kraieski@mailport.delta-air.com Date: 21 Nov 95 08:35:03 -0500 Subject: Schizophrenic Turn Signals Picked up my new '96 Disco last night and at the third right turn the turn signal indicator went schizophrenic on me, quick-flashing at 2 or 3 times the normal rate, just as has been reported by several readers. 1. I put the left signal on and got out and looked at all the lights. 2. I put the right signal on and did the same, noticing any differences. 3. The lower rear turn signal, the one built into the bumper, was not on or blinking. 4. I reached behind the light and jiggled the connector and the light blinked momentarily (at the correct speed) until I let go. 5. I cleaned the sticky, black tar-like substance off my hand that covers everything behind the bumper. Theory: The rustproof coating is applied hot and either gummed up the connector or actually melted or damaged it. I could not see (dark out) but the connector just pushed on and pulled off with no positive engagement. When the connector was off, the bulb was not inside it but remains in the housing. At least there are two separate signal lights on each side in the back so the signals still work. [Verify this for yourself, don't assume your problem is the same. A blown bulb in the front would also cause the quick-flashing.] Mark ------------------------------[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 21 Nov 95 8:38:53 EST Subject: I need a step up... What does the entry step on a Series vehicle atach to? I need to attach side steps to my 109, as the leather uphostery is simply too high for comfortable step-up entry. My 10-year-old's getting tired of using a rope to get into the cab...<grin> Also, is there any marked advantage to the folding side steps as sold by LR? I personally can't see the point of hinge mechanisms out in the mud and was considering using a simple yoke step or some such. I figure as ong as I stay above the height of the diff. bottom, i'm not losing any clearance. Opinions? Alan P.S.: She Who Must Be Obeyed still will NOT set foot in the 109. Oh, well....8*( ajr ------------------------------[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 21 Nov 95 08:41:37 EST From: "R. Pierce Reid" <70004.4011@compuserve.com> Subject: Installing rear seats - repost I am sorry I have not had time to follow LRO for the past few weeks... I have gotten several requests to repost an article on seats for my D90... here is the post. Once I get my garage interior finished, I'll do one on sealing the windshield frame and a post-mortem on my 416 trailer that is about done -- it looks awesome! Cheers, R. P. Reid *****Attached post***** "The latest in a series on how to add the best features of a Series Land Rover to your D90. So far have added a pintle-hitch, trailer wiring, gaiters and now -- an inward-facing bench seat. How to add an inward-facing bench seat: I ordered my seat from BLRS in Birmingham. I ordered a "Rear Bench Seat, Complete" in Neptune Cloth, which is similar (although not identical) to the Spec. D90 upholstery. Price, including shipping, was about 1/3rd the cost of vinyl seat from U.S. Suppliers and 1/6th the cost of a LRNA optional seat. The seat comes without any hardware, so the first order of business is to assemble the following hardware: For attaching the seat back to the seat base: 2 1" allen-head machine screws (or similar) 6 flat washers 2 nylock nuts (All 1/4 inch) For attaching the seat back to the fender well: 2 7/16 bolts 2 7/16 lockwashers 2 7/16 nuts 2 7/16 large flat washers For attaching the seat back to the rear box lip: 2 1/4 x 2" bolts 2 nuts 2 lockwashers 2 1 1/2" spacers 2 large flat washers For attaching the seat back pillow to the frame: 4 1/2" long stainless phillips screws Also, a set of shoelaces to secure the bottom pillow to the seat frame once installed. The seat appears to be a straightforward installation....but, appearances can be deceiving. The roll cage diagonal support interferes with the seat back, so it must be mounted about 1 1/2 inches away from the box sides. Also, moving the seat too far rearward (to try to clear the diagonal) can interfere with the speakers. Also, because the rear lip on the D90 is boxed, you can't get your hands in to put the nuts on the bolts, so you have to drill your holes for bolts close to the only two openings large enough to get your fingers in.... Locate the seat back so that it clears the bed lip by about 1 1/2 inches and that the rear part of the frame is about 1 inch from the end of the lip near rear panel. This boxed-section is open at the end and you will be able to reach in and put the lockwasher on the bolt later on. When lined up in this position, the forward part of the seatback should be close to a 3"x2" opening in the boxed section at the base of the roll cage. This gives you the other opening where you can reach in with a nut and lockwasher. Once you have your seat aligned, mark the location to bolt the seat back to the floor. Cut two small holes in the rear mat and then drill a pilot and a 7/16" hole through the aluminum fender. Bolt this in place, but don't tighten fully... you will be taking it out again. Mark the seat back and the bed lip where you want the 2" top securing bolts to go through. You will have to guestimate a bit, but a level may help. Remove the seatback and drill 1/4" holes in both the seat back and in the section of the bed. Re-install the seatback (but don't tighten.. you will take it out again!) and line-up the 2" bolts into the holes. You will now need to install some kind of spacer to maintain the 1 1/2" space between the seatback and the bed. I used 1/4" ID aluminum tubing, cutting each piece to fit (there is no set length here, just cut what works). Once this is done, take the seatback out again, leaving the 2" bolts in place hanging through the holes. Install the seatback using the 4 stainless phillips screws (there is exposed fibreboard on the seats as shipped from BLRS. I attached a piece of black naugahyde over the exposed fiberboard using contact cement... both for asthetics and to protect it from water.) Now install the bolts through the fenderwell. Put on the lockwasher and a large flat washer up against the fender. I coated mine with Silicone caulk because I don't want water coming in through the hole. Install the 2" bolts with the spacer, a large flat washer, put through your hole in the box section and then put on a lock washer and a nut. This will be tough to tighten but it can be done. You will have to reach into the box section and hold the nut with your finger until it gets tight. Now install the seat bottom using the washers, allen screw and nylock nut to keep it from vibrating loose. Tie the bottom pillow in place and you're done...you have a seat. The whole process took about 2 hours, including 2 trips to the hardware store. **DISCLAIMER** I recommend NOT using this seat while the vehicle is moving unless you install approved seatbelts. Since I plan really only to use it as a place to sit to clean shotguns and smoke cigars, I do not have seatbelts. This installation is not to be intended to imply that inward-facing bench seats provide adequate protection for passengers in the event of an accident. Use these seats for passengers at your own risk. Anyway...next installment will probably be either the installation of a gun/security box on the other fenderwell or, perhaps, a work-light. Cheers, R. Pierce Reid " ------------------------------[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 08:54:00 -0500 From: "christian (c.j.) szpilfogel" <chrisz@bnr.ca> Subject: re:The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest From: a-robw@microsoft.com >Please let us know what they find/fix for this. It's a good thing you were >only 100 yards off the highway. Has anyone had the "opportunity" to try the >"Road-side" recovery when far from the road side (e.g. way off road)? I have not yet gotten that stuck. I did get firmly planted in a swamp once. When I came up to it, it looked like an innocent mud hole. Once I got about half way across it got bogged down and spent the next 2 hours getting myself out. My pride would not allow me to call "off-road-side assistance". As I was digging, I noticed that this innocent mud hole was really the edge of a swamp! I did get out, continued along my way and discovered it was a dead end!! Yup had to go back through that hole. However this time I carefully planned my trek across and just barely made it. The only really bad part of the experience was the 33C heat and the deer flies which discovered a new salt lick. All this while my wife was sitting inside running the A/C. She likes the ride but not the work :-\ Anyway, that was not the point of my post. A local fellow who bought a '95 Disco (I won't metion names) did get high centered in the Gatineau's. Off- road-side assistance did come and get him. He has a winch now. The dealer told me that this kind of thing was covered (in fact bragged about it). He said you have up to 2 men and 3 hours to help extract you, after that you get billed. Cheers, -Christian --------------- Christian Szpilfogel '95 Discovery Ottawa, Ontario, Canada ------------------------------[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Marcus Haas <marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk> Subject: Unimog URL Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 13:49:26 +0000 (GMT) One of our more regular contributors (I forget who, sorry!) used to include the URL for a Unimog WWW page. Could someone be so kind as to email it to me? Thanks. Marcus. (marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk) ------------------------------[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 10:44:32 -0500 From: benedick@pa.net (KRIS/DARWYN BENEDICT) Subject: Subscribe LR Daily Digest & Owner List Please, add us to the LR Daily Digest List & Owner List. My real name is Kris Benedict and I own a 94 Disco. Can't Wait to start reading the digest. Thanks! Kris ------------------------------[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 09:35:56 -0500 From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith) Subject: Tim Hariner hub questions Tim, The brake spings on your 88 are as follows. Top spring (the one with the long straight section) goes from upper right, to the pin on the backing plate. The lower sping (no straight section) goes between the bottom two, and all springs must be in the back, between the backing plate and the shoes. The easiest way we have found to set this up is... Set the two pads down, remember to get one of each, if you are doing more than one wheel. You need one with no adjuster pin, and one with (some cheapo brake pads don't even have the pin, you have to put a bolt in for the pin, but we'll assume you bought the good stuff) Install the lo wer spring from the back side. Now pick up the rig, and keep the spring inplace. Put one side on the bottom pin, and wrestle the other side over the pin. If you do it right the pads will now just sit there on the backing plate waiting for the top spring. Makes things a lot easier, especially since the springs are supposed to be behind the pads. Now put the top spring on, by sticking it in the upper, rear pads whole, then I use needle nose pliers to slip it on the pin on the backing plate. The long straight part goes towards the backing plate pin, not the sping. If you connect the sping (shoe to shoe) on the top, instead of shoe to backing plate pin, you have too much return, and have to pump the brakes like crazy to get anything. The pin on the front shoe is for the adjuster, not a spring. Yes you should drill and tap your brake drums. They help take pressure off the studs that hold your wheels on. The braking power is transfered through the studs and these screws. They all should be there. The 90w out of your hub flange is normal. It means that unlike some Rovers, you actaully had some in there! The hub flange bolts do get dry, just clean an lightly lube to install. The front axle is a full floater. This means fluid can flow from one side to the other. When you get the new felt, and gasket installed, check your swivel ball oil level, and top it back up. The fill and drain are on the swivel housing casting, and you can't miss them. Put a piece of fuel line hose on the end of a bottle of 90w, creates a bit less mess during filling. Manuals say to pack the bearings, It is a good idea, but even we don't do it all the time on our own stuff. Hope this helps. Mike Smith, East Coast Rover Co. ------------------------------[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 08:38:20 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: 109" Frame Plans? > Although wonderfully light and corrosion resistant it does not have the > strength and stress resistance of steel, being more prone to cracking [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > the frame after every heavy off-road trip... > Cheers. Actually, a number of heavy truck makers (Peterbuilt is one I think) make their frames out of aluminum. If you use the proper alloy & thickness I think it would be fine. However, one thing that gives LR's their low center of gravity is the heavy frame. You'd loose that with aluminum. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Brazelle, Amy (TRW)" <brazelle@hsv.mdc.com> Subject: Steering Stabilizer Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 08:40:00 PST Hello, for the first time. Greetings from Dixie. Believe it or not, but there are a few Rover nuts even in the deep south. My wife had email at her office (just subsribe to lro-digest a few weeks ago) and has been updating me with info that she has read about Series Rovers. She doesn't have very much time to read it so we miss a lot of the info on the digest. We will soon be purchasing a PC for our home which will enable me to follow the digest on a daily basis. I have been the PROUD owner of a '66 109 IIA SW for a year now - a vehicle my son refers to as "The lean green leaking machine" and my wife simply calls it "The money pit ! ". I have been making improvements to the Rover since I have owned it beginning with replacing both rear axle halfs the week after I brought it home. I wish I could say that the long shaft broke while pulling a suburban out of a ditch or powering my way up a muddy slope, however it actually snapped while backing out of the driveway with a load of friends who wanted to take a ride around the block in "that strange vehicle". Hunting season has begun which requires that I traverse management roads with deep ruts. I am considering purchasing a steering stabilizer. Has anyone installed one on a Series II and if so, what type did you use and where did you buy it? I don't think that Rovers North carries them. I believe I saw a "Rancho" type on a Series Rover in a magazine. I would appreciate any recommendations. Thanks!!! Bryan Brazelle Huntsville, Alabama USA brazelle@hsv.mdc.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 09:49:45 -0500 (EST) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Subject: Re: Re: Children / Airbags On Tue, 21 Nov 1995, Robert A. Virzi wrote: > If I told you that eight children were killed in accidents while in car > seats in the same period of time, would you conclude that car seats are > dangerous? I would hope not. -Bob Virzi Ahhhh, we're talking about those things that explode out of the dash. I figured that the air bags being discussed (with all their destructive force) was when the mother-in-law was riding in the passenger seat. Now, that is dangerous too... Rgds, :-) ------------------------------[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 08:51:44 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Re: Children / Airbags > Please don't take offense, but this is a meaningless statistic. It ignores > the prior odds of the kids being killed without the airbag. About the only > statistic that really matters is whether or not the child is more or less > likely to be hurt/killed in an airbag equipped car than in a similar car > without. Actually I'd think you'd need to compare it to the number of kid's exposed to but *not* killed by airbags, compared to the number of kids killed in the front seat of non-airbag equiped cars. If a total of ten were exposed to deploying airbags, I'd say they were unsafe. I suspect there is a valid reason the NHTSA says not to use child seats in the front with airbag equiped cars. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar) Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 09:09:06 -0600 Subject: Hub Rebuild, con't... Hi again, I. Hit a road block last night on my hub project ('66 IIa 88). I can't extract the inner oil seal from the hub, preventing me from removing the bearing. Any tricks? I thought of pounding out the whole race/bearing/seal assembly from the inside, but I don't have a brass drift and really didn't want to remove the races if I didn't have to. My guess, from the condition of the outside of the hub and seal is that they may be rusted together. Any other methods of removing this little bugger? Haynes says "prise out the oil seal and remove the bearing..." - thanks a lot :-). Anyone in real-time got a quick answer? I was hoping to continue tonight... II. I want to sand blast and paint the exposed components. My father-in-law has a sand blasting kit with his compressor (typical 4 hp home type unit). I have never sand blasted anything before. How easy is it to damage the bare metal components - i.e. races, inside of the brake drum, etc. Obviuosly, I'd try to aviod hitting those areas, but should I be super careful, kinda careful, not- to-worry? III. P.S. To my brake shoe spring problem. I was wrong. The spring goes from the leading shoe to a post on the back plate, as Chris from RN said. This is a prime example of why it is good to take notes while doing any job that has multiple components. In less than 24 hours, I had compleatly reversed the correct assembly. Sorry to waste bandwidth. Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Treit Le <Treit_Le@apprise.com> Date: 21 Nov 95 10:19:08 Subject: Wind noise I have a significant amount of wind noise in my '95 Classic. The person on the other end of a cellular call said that it seemed loud to him. It sounds like the window is open a crack. This is at 65mph+ with all windows, sunroof and vents closed and ventilation turned off. Is this normal? That, the AT transmission lever being loose in "D" and glove compartment door needing to be slammed are my only "problems" in the first 3K miles. ------------------------------[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 10:01:19 -0600 (CST) From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu> Subject: my mid-life crisis Hey, it worked for me... A man at where my wife works is going thru a mid-life crisis. Janice is watching all the antics and we chuckle about them at home. This guy is trying to have some fun, but he is really working hard to accomplish it. New divorce, new hair, new car, new clothes, new women and no respect. I told Janice that I didn't want to go thru a mid-life crisis. The payback of chasing all the women just wasn't worth the effort. I told her that what I really wanted was "...just another old landrover...". I told her that this was common amoungst land rover owners and "...that dixon has 12..." Something clicked that night -- she thought for a few seconds. I knew she was doing some serious soul-searching. Her only words to me was: "...ok, you can get another land rover, but it has to be a good one..." I was caught flat-footed, but managed to mumble "...whatever you think is right, dear...". Getting a good one is going to be tough for me. I am a bottom-fisher that attempts to buys cheap and then spends $4000 to save $1000. Old habits die hard. But wait, mates, don't start sending email about those junkers you are attempting to unload. I am going to be selective. I have spent the past couple of weeks saying to myself s1/sii, 88/109, petrol/diesel, lightweight? And each day the decision is different. It is fun going thru the old issues of LRO, AL Workhoure, and RN/AB listings and re-reading the for sale ads. I even made a phone call last night on an attractive sounding 8-month ad, but no answer... But I have settled on one thing -- and I think I am paraphrasing dixon, -- my new land rover will "...have leaf springs and a metal dash...". Stay tuned for the next update... Ray Harder (61 SIIa -- Lulu) ------------------------------[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: The Retro Fit Air(or Gas)Bag Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 16:15:34 GMT There is available,at great expense,as Dixon so nobly points out,a retro fit airbag for Series machines. However,to fit this awe inspiring piece of equipment there is a prerequisite.One must acquire oneself a wife,should one not alredy possess such an item.With each of these comes the airbag itself,if you've worked it right,to whit item,mothers in law, one,sweet fanny adams for the use of,one.The acquisiton of a suitable spouse I leave to the ingenuity of the reader,since methods vary from country to country,and Land Rover owners are generally a pretty ingenious lot. You should be aware that the equipment comes with audio output, which cannot be deleted from the specification,nor,moreover, can it be switched off(no doubt for safety reasons).It is this feature that makes the old....er..airbag especially suited to the oily wadder series machine,since with judicious throttle control the audio O/P generic to the Oily Wad Land Rover can be made to match,or even exceed the airbag wattage. To install,open the passenger side door,first having donned suitable ear defenders(pun,sorry),probably available at cost from RN,should any of their staff be wedded,or even betrothed. Be sure to ask.Next,place a suitable block of wood beneath the entrance,(do *not* use your axle stands,you may need them at some stage,and its a shame to ruin perfectly serviceable pieces of equipment),and get out,hire,or steal(the latter is preferable) an engine crane.I should perhaps have mentioned that the equipment *is* heavy duty.Attach,via the engine crane,a length of rope,under the handbag(purse)handling members of the airbag and lift into the cab.Note:attaching the rope immediately under the audio output device is *not* recommended should the installation operation have drawn a crowd,particularly if said crowd numbers amongst it members of the local constabulary.It will also render the operation to date useless,since the airbag output and audio output are irretrievably connected.Damage to one renders the other useless. The engine crane is not absolutely essential,the block of wood,plced as a step may be used,providing you have understanding neighbours to replace the function of the crane.Close the door,and drive away. The benefits will be immediately obvious.the volume of air generated is directly proportional to the speed of advance,and since it is generated in a forward direction,it impinges upon the windshield, forming an impenetrable barrier between the driver and any hard object in front of him.The drivers nose will also be found to be kept pleasantly warm.However,all the marks manufactured to date have a side effect which,as yet,science has failed to eradicate. The drivers ears will be found to be painfully burning.The ear defenders do not seem to make much difference in this respect, but rumour has it that as a stopgap,a refrigerated set is to come on the market shortly. It is said in some quarters that Land Rover are shortly to bring out a *three* airbag Discovery.Apparently,this model will be easily identifiable by the existance of a large round hatch above the passenger seat.From what little information I have been able to glean,the driver merely has to utter,in a frustrated and ill-tempered manner,facing the passenger seat, the words "Foxtrot Oscar",and the third airbag will deploy, also the hatch. However,due to the habit of many drivers of Land Rover products, of carrying multiple six packs on the passenger seat,research is said to still be under way to prevnet accidental deployment. Land Rover are,apparently,not short of volunteers for this phase of development,but publicans in Solihull are reportedly less than pleased,since their custom has inexplicably dropped off since the project started,and Land Rover are buying the beer required direct from the brewery.The main problem to be overcome is that rapid reduction in weight of the six-packs,once the vehicle is under way, and after a short while,the apparent increased attraction to the vehicle of obstacles such as large trees.This phenomenon has yet to be explained.I have no doubt that LRO will feature a full report in due course. Cheers Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 21 Nov 95 10:45:16 EST Subject: Relative dangers to the LR/RR owner... It's been getting too damn stuffy in here..... I will agree that the discussion on airbags is important, but there are many other things that bedevil the true scion of the Land/Range Rover breed. Many of these things are common among the thoroughbreds from the Solihull farm, but each member of the family has its own perils, too. For all, of course there are many hazards to ownership. Among these are: >Weak kidneys from the vibration at over 40 MPH. >Penury from purchasing all the fuel that our thirsty steeds need. >Death by crushing while trying to retrieve that elusive part from the bottom wreck in a 4-car pile at the breaker's yard. >Cancer from cleaning up all the puddles of 90wt. in the driveway. and so on.... Series owners do not have it easy, as our vehicles are the oldest of the marque. For us, we brave other problems as well a the hazards listed above. >Being shot by the Jag owner at the car club meet when the mud from you car gets on his $10K paint job. >Carbon Monoxide poisoning from all the leaky seams in the firewall and footboxes. >Death by chagrin from being laughed at by all the Jeep owners as they pass us on the highway. >Alzheimer's Disease from constant exposure to all that aluminum. >Deafness from the +90DBm noise level at 50MPH... > Nervous breakdown from having your 4-wheel beloved called a Toyota by the local hoodlums. Range Rover owners, while being luckier than their Series compatriots by having vehicles that were not designed during the last Ice Age, still must muddle through the dangers of Rover ownership. >Barfights over diff locked/diff unlocked arguments in restaurants. >Apoplexy over the cost of replacement steering boxes on the discovery of a leak. >Hernias while trying to lift the bull bar onto the front mounts during installation. >Severe psychological discomfort over the paint scratches the SO keeps giving you hell over. > Series owners trying to steal your axles for coil-over rebuilds. Defender and Discovery owners, while not unlike Range Rover owners, mst work through ever-different challenges, being the "new kids" on the block They have problems all their own... > Food poisoning from having the pate de foie gras go bad while out in the jungle. > Sticker shock over the insurance on what is considered a luxury vehicle. > Being harassed in airport parking because the FAA thinks Rovers are "Terrorist Vehicles". Come to think of it...they may be right....witness Dixon! >Inability to pass a Premium gas pump. >Finding out your onboard computer WON'T play "Myst"...or run "Windows '95"..... Ours is a hard life..... Tongue being surgically removed from cheek, Alan ------------------------------[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 11:27:20 -0500 (EST) From: "Jon Moody (BME)" <mood@rad.unc.edu> Subject: Range Rover... Hi all thanks for the replies re '88 range rover. I actaully ended up seeing a '90 w/ 80K for $15.5K. Questions. 1. Any estimates as to what annual maintance cossts would be? 2. Gas milage on average for RR`s. 3. Reliabilty? 4. I'm finishing up as a grad student, am I crazy to be considering this? 5. Any other major weak spots besides power steering pump, and rust in the footwells? 6. How parts availibilty and costs? THanks for all the input. Jon Moody ------------------------------[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "T.F. Mills" <tomills@du.edu> Subject: Re: National Rally Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 09:50:28 -0700 (MST) Steve asks: All; I Need to know who is in charge of the National Rally this August in Colorado. EXACT Dates for the rally are also needed.........If Daddy wants to go play..... Mommy has to know by tomorrow , she has to pick her '96 vacation then. Thanks. Steve WA2GMC 72 slll 88 Don't assume it's always in Colorado in August (if you were assuming). It's just that Solihull Society (the Colorado club) is on a roll, and we'd like to keep it rolling at least to the LR 50th anniversary. The rally was held for several years in Utah. That said, the 1996 rally is *very tentatively* set for Aug. 8-14 in Colorado. I am not involved in organizing it, and I am not sure anybody has stepped forward to take full charge. T. F. Mills tomills@du.edu University of Denver Library http://www.du.edu/~tomills Denver CO 80208 USA ------------------------------[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 08:50:15 -0800 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: Re. Oil Filled Hub If its apart, I'd say you should be replacing the seal at the end of the axle housing, then repacking and seating the bearings. It seems like filling the hub with 90wt would be trickier than packing with grease (the grease stays roughly where it's put). The more 90wt you've got in your hubs the more likely you are to have some leak into the brake drum... cheers, Jeremy P.S. Don't use a cold chisel on the hub nuts :) ------------------------------[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 21 Nov 95 11:54:50 EST From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com> Subject: Hub Rebuild, con't... >> Hit a road block last night on my hub project ('66 IIa 88). I can't extract the inner oil seal from the hub, preventing me from removing the bearing. Any tricks? I thought of pounding out the whole race/bearing/seal assembly from the inside, but I don't have a brass drift and really didn't want to remove the races if I didn't have to. << I always removed mine with a large screwdriver and a adjustable wrench. I used the wrench to turn the screwdriver and press the seal out. It never required much force, so there was no damage to the bearing, but if you are not planing on replacing the bearing, you might use a flat washer or something similar to help protect the bearing. ------------------- | | | | _ _ ____|____ _ _ | Rob Dennis O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O 73363.427@Compuserve.com \____===_=====_===____/ Atlanta, GA USA |oo |(_)###(_)| oo| | | ### | | 1972 SerIII 88 | | ####### | | 1990 RangeRover |_____|_#######_|_____| [_______________________] |\/| |\/| Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com On 21-Nov-1995 ------------------------------[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 12:11:52 -0500 (EST) From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca> Subject: Re: Relative dangers to the LR/RR owner... On 21 Nov 1995, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote: > It's been getting too damn stuffy in here..... Oh? :-) > >Weak kidneys from the vibration at over 40 MPH. 40? Try 4... But, you've cheated I understand and put radials on your pretty 109. > >Death by crushing while trying to retrieve that elusive part from the bottom > wreck in a 4-car pile at the breaker's yard. That's why you get a winch. To pull the piles apart first. > >Cancer from cleaning up all the puddles of 90wt. in the driveway. > and so on.... Ahhh, you clean these? I'm parking the 109 in different spots to make them blend together. Then the driveway looks like it was newly coated, just like the neighbours who have this affliction that requires them to paint with some black goo... Of course, the occasional Exxon Valdez speeds the process up too... > >Being shot by the Jag owner at the car club meet when the mud from you car > gets on his $10K paint job. No, no, no... You straddle the $70k Jag with a pair of Land Rovers. The Jag owner has a coronary when he notices his new neighbours at the show... He will never notice the migrating mud... > >Deafness from the +90DBm noise level at 50MPH... Ahhh, yes, Mike Rooth's comments earlier today. Rgds, :-) ------------------------------[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 95 09:18:29 +0100 From: sm095re@unidui.uni-duisburg.de (Kurt Reinhardt) Subject: Virus alert !!! Hi folks, and now something completely different..... I`ve got this forwarded message today and even it doesn=B4t concern anything related to Land Rover it seems to be important for us as internet user. There is a computer virus that is being sent across the Internet. If you receive an e-mail message with the subject line "Good Times", DO NOT read the= message, DELETE it immediately. Please read the messages below. Some miscreant is sending e-mail under the title "good times" nation-wide.= If you get anything like this, DON'T DOWN LOAD THE FILE! It has a virus that rewrites your hard drive, obliterating anything on it. Please be careful and forward this mail to anyone you care about--I have. *********************Forwarded Message**************************** WARNING!!!!!!!!!: INTERNET VIRUS The FCC released a warning last Wednesday concerning a matter of major importance to any regular user of the InterNet. Apparently, a new computer virus has been engineered by a user of America Online that is unparalleled= in its destructive capability. Other, more well-known viruss such as Stoned, Airwolf, and Michaelangelo pale in comparison to the prospects of this= newest creation by a warped mentality. What makes this virus so terrifying, said the FCC, is the fact that no= program needs to be exchanged for a new computer to be infected. It can be spread through the existing e-mail systems of the InterNet. Once a computer is infected, one of several things can happen. If the computer contains a hard drive, that will most likely be destroyed. If the program is not stopped,= the computer's processor will be placed in an nth-complexity infinite binary= loop - which can severely damage the processor if left running that way too long. Unfortunately, most novice computer users will not realize what is= happening until it is far too late. Luckily, there is one sure means of detecting what is now known as the "Good Times" virus. It always travels to new computers the same way in a text= e-mail message with the subject line reading simply "Good Times". Avoiding infection is easy once the file has been received - not reading it. The act of loading the file into the mail server's ASCII buffer causes the "Good Times" mainline program to initialize and execute. The program is= highly intelligent - it will send copies of itself to everyone whose e-mail address= is contained in a received-mail file or a sent- mail file, if it can find= one. It will then proceed to trash the computer it is running on. The bottom line here is - if you receive a file with the subject line "Good Times", delete it immediately! Do not read it! Rest assured that whoever's name was on the "From:" line was surely struck by the virus. Warn your friends and local system users of this newest threat to the= InterNet! It could save them a lot of time and money. ------------------------------ end --------------------------- I=B4ve heard that some mailer as next-mail or z-mailer are in great danger, because they load a file before deleting. So please be careful. happy rovering...:-) Ciao Kurt ------------------------------[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 08:01:35 +0000 Subject: Re: I need a step up... > Also, is there any marked advantage to the folding side steps as > sold by LR? I personally can't see the point of hinge mechanisms > out in the mud and was considering using a simple yoke step or > some such. I figure as ong as I stay above the height of the > diff. bottom, i'm not losing any clearance. Take into account the clearance *between* the wheels. The thing that tends to knock side-steps off is not ground-clearance but bashing them sideways as your bodywork bounces off a hard object. Most damage I've seen is either rust to the hinge areas or bent frameworks. Just my 0.02 ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> ------------------------------[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mr Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk> Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 08:08:30 +0000 Subject: Re: 2.25 Fuel Pump Condition/Rebuild or new? > > Hey are there any Series owner left on the LRO Digest list or is it all > > Discos now? :) > I'm still here - owner of 1 x Series II and 1 x Series III. Who has the list of Rover Names - that'll remind us of the legions of Series motors out there.... (BTW - Lucas is a Series III 109, reg LCS 210 W) ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. <http://www.vet.ed.ac.uk/> or <http://www.tardis.ed.ac.uk/~kiz/> ------------------------------[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 08:55:42 +0001 From: wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy Wassili) Subject: Re: a cradle to roll a vehicle >Yes, Roy, this is what I was talking about... >And...? [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] >I like your ASCII art. >Jan Well.... uhmm. that is a little embarassing story, but what the heck. When we were heading for the Polish/German frontier we were shot by two Polish policemen with radar guns, since we were driving to fast ( 90 km/h instead of 40 km/h). But then the Polish were driving a very old Polonez( Polish assembly of a Fiat 128) and they just couldn't speed up with us.( I was then driving a red Toyota Landcruiser 2.4 turbocharged diesel) and we got away with it. I assume the radio of the police went flat also, because I've never seen the entire brigade following us and I guess we were lucky at that time. Two miles away from the frontier we were once again shot by two Polish policemen with radar guns. 100 yrds behind them they had thrown up a road block( the policeradio was working afterall :-) ) and we just had to stop. The two policemen looked very impressive with their machineguns and all that stuff! Well we got a ticket for speeding and had to pay 500.000 slotty, wich we didn't have anymore, since we bought some tools and a blueprint of that ingenious piece of equipment to tilt a car on its side. After a lot of talking we could pay the policemen of with these tools, beer and the equipment, and also $23( = 500.000 slotty ). So, Jan , I'm sorry but I don't have these blueprints any more ;-) LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR ____ | _____/|__|| Roy Wassili,<wassili@amc.uva.nl> | /(-8| \ | Avalon Green '95 Discovery, VG-XH-66 ____|_/[]__|__\___|# scarved for live |] __=| | __ |# [|_/ \|_____|_/ \_|] ( o ) ( o ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 23:52:38 -0800 From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> Subject: Re: full cash refund > But then, where could I put my cellular phone? And would I have enough > cargo space for all those bottles of wine, wedges of goat cheese, and > crates of arugula? 8-) Well, I keep one on the ledge by the vents (next to the power inverter for the laptop) and one on the bench next to me. The microcassette recorder (for notes) goes on the center seat with the flip-phone, and the laptop on the far seat, or soon, on a custom stand floating above the shift levers. I usually leave the printer in its case when traveling. The *cases* of wine go directly behind the front seats, crates of arugula on the roof rack (they're ligtht) and the goat cheese in the garbage. I'll stick to real cheese (mozzarella) on my pizza, thank you! --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California ------------------------------[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 02:34:32 -0500 Subject: Selling My 109" (Repost) Hello all: Well, 63 days and counting till the estimated January 24 due date of our second child. (Yes, the human version, not a Rover this time) The Sonogram and other indicators tell us it's a boy this time. All this brings me around to reposting my earlier entry about Hugo, my 109". I bought Hugo on June 14, literally days prior to being informed of my re-entry into fatherhood. To get to the point, I need to recoup my money to pay for the new heir to the throne. We're self employed, have excellent casualty insurance but no maternity benefits. I've had several very good inquiries but distance seems to kill the deal more than price or anything else. Michael Slade, out in Oregon, sent film and *two pages* of details to shoot photographs of. I see in a recent posting by him that he has since aquired a 109 fairly close to him. (Michael, if you're reading this, perhaps you could comment to the list on Hugo based on the comprehensive photos. You've already found yours, you don't know me, and would have no reason to offer anything but an un-biased opinion.) In all honesty, Hugo would make an excellent second (or tenth) Rover or a first for someone in heat to experience Roverhood. The entire repost follows: *********Begin Repost********** Well.....alas....:-( ...guess I can't keep everything. A new baby in the oven ($$$), another 88" Rover thats crying for new toys, several unfinished Alfa Romeo projects and a ham radio habit tend to eat away at my toy money. I've decided to put Hugo up for adoption. Hugo is a VERY straight 1966 Series IIA, 109" 5 door wagon. (VIN # 826630765) No signs of major collision or repair during his 29 years. Wears size 235/85/16 Goodyear Wrangler shoes on his rims, with 90% of their tread remaining. Standard green in color, sports a white tropical roof panel with the oval horizontal windows in the top section. All guages work except for the odometer itself. ( The speedometer works fine.) *Excellent* oil pressure. Original (except for alternator and Rochester carb conversion) and relatively clean and un-butchered under the hood (bonnet, for some of you). Sold, serviced and maintained by Harrell Motor Sales most of his life (one of the first Land Rover Dealers in the US back in the 'old days'......Ted, the chief mechanic, has been with Harrells more than 40 years). Hugo anxiously cranks and runs on demand, is a non smoker, and recently passed the stringent North Carolina DMV inspection with an excellent report card. Has excellent floorboards, NO rust where you'd expect it around the bottom of the bulkhead. The outriggers show some patching but overall the frame passes the hammer and screwdriver test with flying colors. Comes with set of new 'Genuine' door seals, yet to be installed, and other various parts that I've accumulated, including an old original parts manual. So what does he need? Mostly cosmetic stuff.....a set of seats, seat covers, or a new roll of duct tape. Could use a new headliner, and a rear exhaust section, and lower sliding window channels. Could use spring mount bushings if your really picky. Right rear taillight lens is cracked. Actually, a type A 'anal' personality could probably quickly spend a grand on trivial toys, goodies and pretty things but Hugo is fully ready and serviceable just as he stands. I need to get $8650. (US) or a very near reasonable offer in order to let Hugo leave. Cash or certified bank funds only. Visitors are welcome. If you're seriously interested and have more questions feel free to call (704) 289-6303 or email. Thanks all. Cordially: Rick Crider <rickcrider@aol.com> 111 S. Hayne St. Monroe NC 28112 (Thats near Charlotte NC) ' 66 IIA 109" Hugo ' 73 III 88" Jesse ' 88 Range Rover (the daily mule) .....and more Alfa's than I'm willing to admit. **********End Repost********* ------------------------------[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 16:11:14 +1000 From: o.evans@latrobe.edu.au (Owen Evans) Subject: Re: Alternator woes Just a short summary of responses to my query, and a thank you to those who took the trouble, and to the list as a whole. 1. Notwithstanding the information that I had, SIIa was available with an alternator as an option. I guess I could have found this out if I'd been using a genuine LR manual. An offer of a copy of the circuit diagram was made. 2. The separate Alternator Control was used in some early alternator systems. I was unaware of this, being familiar only with alternators with the integral control. 3. If there is something wrong with the Control, I'm probably getting poor charging too. True. 4. The main suggestion was to throw out the existing alternator and control, and replace with a (higher capacity) alternator with integral control. It may come to this. 5. Install a big main power switch. I may do this anyway. By chance, a colleague here has offered to lend me a spare 4.T.R. Control box that he had for a Rover 2000 car. I'll give this a try before I do anything more substantial. Once again, many thanks to those who offered help. Owen Evans SIIa 1971 ------------------------------[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 21:22:29 -0500 From: 7direct@inch.com (alain boyer) Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Hi everyone, I live in NYC U.S.A and I have a 91 RR county but last night someone who probably needed a spare part stole my front bush guard... :(. I don't want to spend $1200.00 for a new one so if someone has a used one or can suggest a clone that would fit on the front of the RR please let me know. ------------------------------[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re:children/airbags/mothers in-law Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 13:49:46 +1030 (CST) Dixon venturing out onto thin Canadian Ice writes: > Ahhhh, we're talking about those things that explode out of the > dash. I figured that the air bags being discussed (with all their > destructive force) was when the mother-in-law was riding in the > passenger seat. Now, that is dangerous too... Cultures around the world seem to have a common "mother in-law" problem. Is there a solution? Why yes, been around for 10's of thousands of years! In many (if not all?) Australian Aboriginal tribes in Arnhemland NT, (people regarded by "modern experts" as "primitive", yeh right....) an individual has a group of relatives commonly described as "poison cousins". These are people you may not speak directly to, if seated near must be back to back, and a whole heap of other complex social mechanism aimed at minimising contact apply. what has this to do with Mothers in-law you ask. (its sure got nothing to do with Landrovers :-) Well under traditional law, once you "marry", your wifes mother becomes a "poison cousin" type. She cant speak to you ........... I had my Aboriginal "sister" explain this to the Mother in-law at my wedding, got a thick ear for my effort to uphold traditional values. Hmmph some people. -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) ------------------------------[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Oil filled hubs (still) Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 12:20:11 +1030 (CST) Mike L tells us: > The SerIII has the hub drilled for this. Yeah but which series III's, I robbed my hubs from an early (pre heater/demister sIII.) None of the other series IIa's or III's I've seen have had this feature. I spent a fair bit of time running around wrecking yards and rubbish dumps around Darwin NT with a 5/16 W spanner and a length of coat hanger wire, only ever found the one set. > The later IIa's might have this, but I'm not sure. Dont know either. My '67 certainly didnt. I'd *really* like to know the origin of these hubs... > The Haynes manual says the early hubs were oil filled, the later ones grease > packed. It doesn't state what models/years.. Hub capacity is something like > .33 Imp pints... Ok so thats about 190 ml. My guess is that the haynes manual is refering to oil filled hubs as defined by the oil filling hole in the drive flange. I dunno when these stopped but they certainly qualify as "early" > Cheers -- Daryl ------------------------------[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 19:49:08 -0500 Subject: Re: Hub Rebuild, con't... Had an inner grease seal which I couldn't extract with my usual crowbar/seal extractor method. Drove the corner of a 3/8" cold chisel into the flat of the seal towards the center of the seal. Did that in two places to peel the seal away from the hub, and it finally popped out. Just be careful not to drive down onto the bearing, but rather across the hub. ------------------------------[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wdcockey@aol.com Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 19:56:20 -0500 Subject: Re: 109" Frame Plans? Another concern with aluminum for the frame is the prevention of galvanic corrosion between the frame and steel components (i.e. creating a battery with the disimilar metals). To prevent galvanic corrosion you must electrically isolate the steel and aluminum with paint or a gasket. Also aluminum is available in a number of alloys and tempers, and the varieties can be all over in terms of strength and corrosion resistance. Finally to maintain frame stiffness, use 3 times the wall thickness of the steel frame if you don't increase section size. This is due to the modulus of elasticity being 1/3 that of steel. So your light aluminum frame weighs the same as a steel frame, since the densities also differ by a factor of 3. ------------------------------[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 20:04:35 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Oli filled hub! Daryl comments... > At last another vehicle with flange bolt, hub oil filling ability. Now if > only we can work out which models! The SerIII has the hub drilled for this. If you notice, it's the flange bolt that is centered between two of the lug bolts. The later IIa's might have this, but I'm not sure. First chance I get, I'm going to check my '71 IIa parts truck and see how the hubs are. I would like to set up the '65 IIa like that, but I don't want to use SerIII hubs.. The Haynes manual says the early hubs were oil filled, the later ones grease packed. It doesn't state what models/years.. Hub capacity is something like .33 Imp pints... Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 725-1859 Gloversville NY, 12078 -USA- 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney") 7 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern") #:-}> 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts) ------------------------------[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 20:04:23 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: What is this Window Channel Stuff Chris Stevens asks... - I removed the right hand window channels form my SRIIa 88" this afternoon - to survey the damage. Rust wasn't that bad, but all the furry stuff in the - side and lower channels was shot. What is this stuff? Can I recover the - channels after I sand out all the rust? Anyone have any experience with - this? What you have there is your basic Land Rover flora.. an ecosystem that thrives in the crud that collects in the window channels. The only way to replace it is to wait 5 or 10 years (depends on the climate) for it to grow back. OK, Ok... It's a type of flocking that comes bonded to the channels when they are new. If the furry stuff is gone, most people replace the channels. If you don't, the windows will probably rattle. But, since everything else rattles, how do you know the differance?? Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 725-1859 Gloversville NY, 12078 -USA- 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney") 7 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern") #:-}> 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts) ------------------------------[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re:Oil filled hubs. Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 11:15:17 +1030 (CST) Jeremy writes: > It seems like filling the hub with 90wt would be trickier than packing with > grease (the grease stays roughly where it's put). Sorry Jeremy you've missed the point. On the type of hub I'm talking about you assemble the whole thing, squeeze the oil in through the flange bolt hole and re fit the flange bolt. To change the oil you undo the flange bolt (only one) roll it to the bottom and watch all of the black grungy oil drain out. spin the wheel until that bolt is back near the top and refill. (actually i go for aboy 1/3 full) Its easier than packing grease, honest, just like changing the engine oil. > The more 90wt you've got in your hubs the more likely you are to have some leak into the brake drum... this was a concern to me. But I've run these hubs for ~9 years (umm say 200K - 230K km something like that), not had any leakage problems *Yet*. the bearings need adjusting at the moment but I cant remember the last time I looked at them......... To steal a line from Stefan, of course YOLMV....(your oil leaks may vary) cheers, > P.S. Don't use a cold chisel on the hub nuts :) Aww but dad....:-) -- Daryl Webb (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au) ------------------------------[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 20:04:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: I need a step up... Alan Richer steps up... > What does the entry step on a Series vehicle atach to? I need to attach > side steps to my 109, as the leather uphostery is simply too high for > comfortable step-up entry. - leather uphostery??? The side steps attach at three points. Two are on the sill rail and the third is on the bulkhead outrigger. I believe you will need to weld a tab on the outrigger - at least there were tabs on my IIa for the steps. You will also probably need to drill out the holes on the sill rail. (The sill rail supports the floor and the seat box and is also where the bottom door seal is attached.) > personally can't see the point of hinge mechanisms out in the mud and was > considering using a simple yoke step or some such. I figure as ong as I > stay above the height of the diff. bottom, i'm not losing any clearance. - Have you ever high-centered your sill panels while off-roading?? That would be my concern on having something much lower than the sills. Could be a real problem with a very rocky trail... > P.S.: She Who Must Be Obeyed still will NOT set foot in the 109. Oh, > well....8*( - What a lucky guy!! Well... I suppose you'll have to buy her a Discovery, eh? Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 725-1859 Gloversville NY, 12078 -USA- 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney") 7 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern") #:-}> 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts) ------------------------------[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 18:27:20 -0500 From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith) Subject: axle housings Re: Mark Talbot's request for 88/109 axles. The axle housing on a 88 are different to those on a 109. 88 part # is 622283, 109 part # is 622288 or FRC2139. The most obvious difference is the tube wall thickness, and the welded on extra supports, like the ones found on rear axles from 88s. Most front end parts will cross, except, as noted in an earlier email, the brake backing plates, etc. The 6 and 4 cyl 109's also have different front castings. The 6 parts # is 622288, 4 cyl front casting is FRC2139. The swap to 109 axle housings to an 88 is ok, but would suggest against 88 to 109, without adding some support, especially if it is a 6 cyl. Alan Adolphsen, East Coast Rover Company ------------------------------[ <- Message 54 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 16:56:45 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Squeak in steering column... of my 109! FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Squeak in steering column... of my 109! With all the talk of squeaky Discovery steering columns when cold, my 109 is having empathy for the squeaky Disco's. This morning my 109's steering column squeaked whilst (might as well get the nick of the language, eh?) turning. Cheers. Dave (squeaks) Brown P.S. Update on the Range Rover cam will be coming the first part of next week. #=======# ________ We make a living by what we get, |__|__|__\___ /__/__|__\___ we make a life by what we give. | _| | |_ |} \_/-\_|__/-\_|} "(_)""""""(_)" (_) (_) Winston Churchill ------------------------------[ <- Message 55 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Ross Leidy <ross@secant.com> Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 17:31:08 EST Subject: Question of std equip on 95 NAS D90 All, Just so I don't feel cheated, did any of the 95 NAS D90's come with the tonneau cover as standard equipment? I thought it would be best to check with everyone on the list in case it was simply overlooked by the dealer. If it's no longer standard equipment, anyone know how many $$ it is? Completely unrelated: I thouroughly enjoyed the post by Mike Rooth on the retrofit of airbags. While reading it at the office, I tried to contain myself, but I busted-out laughing about half-way through. -Ross _______________________________________________ Ross Leidy Senior Software Engineer ross@secant.com Secant Technologies 95 D-90 (red) #3032 ------------------------------[ <- Message 56 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 13:31:01 -0800 (PST) From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org> Subject: Re: Range Rover... On Tue, 21 Nov 1995, Jon Moody (BME) wrote: > Hi all thanks for the replies re '88 range rover. I actaully ended up > seeing a '90 w/ 80K for $15.5K. Questions. > 1. Any estimates as to what annual maintance cossts would be? Basic maintenance much the same as other imported luxury cars. Above that depends on what goes wrong! > 2. Gas milage on average for RR`s. I average about 13 mpg with mixed driving > 3. Reliabilty? Major systems should be reliable but expect a few minor bugs > 4. I'm finishing up as a grad student, am I crazy to be considering this? We are all crazy -- that's a prerequisite to owning a Rover. > 5. Any other major weak spots besides power steering pump, and rust in the > footwells? Nothing major that I know of. > 6. How parts availibilty and costs? Availability is excellent but costs are very high. Good luck!! Cheers John Brabyn 89 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 57 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 12:30:17 -0800 From: Doug.Forehand@Eng.Sun.COM (Douglas W. Forehand) Subject: Discovery Winch bulletin Well I picked up our new 96 Discovery last night. Avalon Blue SE7 with LR winch kit. All appears to work fine, though it being dark we did'nt get wring it out real thoroughly. One thing the dealer imediately pointed out was that with the winch installed the front end is an inch or so lower than it should be. They noticed this while doing the installation and went digging through the bulletins for for some possible explination. heres what they found: =========================================================================== PARTS BULLETIN Bulletin: VG95-046 Section: Vehicle Gear Date: Nov 17, 1995 Model: Discovery Applicable to: USA/Cda Subject: Heavy duty road springs for discoverys with winch installation Effective immediately, heavy duty springs are now available as vehicle gear items for Discovery. PART SUGGEGSTED SUGGESTED NUMBER DISCRIPTION Retail (US) RETAIL (Cda) ------ ----------- ----------- ------------ NTC8476 LHS Spring $103.97 $164.32 NTC8477 RHS Spring $101.54 $160.47 Suggested installation time for the springs is 1.35 hr. Installation of these springs will correct the ride height of a Discovery with a SRS approved winch installed. These springs should be ordered in conjunction with the winch (LRNADISWIN). Please add these part numbers to your price book, PC, or any other location. =========================================================================== The dealer aggreed to get me the above mentioned springs at no charge along with some other stuff to compensate me for the comedy of errors we went through in acquiring the vehicle. Enjoy -Doug 96 Discovery (Simba) ------------------------------[ <- Message 58 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 19:42:56 UT From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com> Subject: What has it come too !!!! Just what is going on here, someone complaining about the wind noise in a 95 Range Rover is loud he can't hear the other person on the cellular phone. Go try it in a Series Land Rover. Stop wasting e-mail space !!!!! ------------------------------[ <- Message 59 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Jeff_Scott@tvo.org (Jeff Scott) Subject: brakes Date: 21 Nov 1995 18:49:43 GMT I recently overhauled the brakes on my 62 IIa and was disappointed to the other day to find the pedal going to the floor, but even more surprised a day or so later to find I had brakes again. This situation has repeated a couple of times. Any ideas? It might help to zero in where the air is getting in. Thanks. ------------------------------[ <- Message 60 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 21 Nov 95 14:48:11 EST From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com> Subject: Steering Stabilizer >> I am considering purchasing a steering stabilizer. Has anyone installed one on a Series II and if so, what type did you use and where did you buy it? I don't think that Rovers North carries them. I believe I saw a "Rancho" type on a Series Rover in a magazine. I would appreciate any recommendations. Thanks!!! << Bryan, I recently purchased the stock steering stabilizer for my SerIII. I purchased mine from Rover's North. There are three parts that you need to have. The first is the frame bracket (NRC4657 $16) this bolts to the frame, but many vehicles already have one so it might not be necessary. You also will need a drag link with the integral bracket for the damper. (NRC 4609 $50) It might be possible to find a clamp on bracket to attach to your exist drag link, but I needed a new drag link so I went with the stock part. Then there is the Damper itself (STC786 $60). Installation is easy, depending on the state of your tie rod ends. Rusted Tie Rod ends are difficult to remove without damaging them, so you might end up replacing these also. Unless of course you go with a bolt on bracket. If your tie rod ends are worn, the damper will not be as effective. It was definitely an improvement, but after a replaced all the tie rod ends the damper became even more effective. P.S. These prices are about a year old, so I imagine they have gone up a bit. ------------------- | | | | _ _ ____|____ _ _ | Rob Dennis O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O 73363.427@Compuserve.com \____===_=====_===____/ Atlanta, GA USA |oo |(_)###(_)| oo| (404) 875-4537 | | ### | | | | ####### | | 1972 SerIII 88 |_____|_#######_|_____| 1990 RangeRover [_______________________] |\/| |\/| Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com On 21-Nov-1995 ------------------------------[ <- Message 61 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 11:39:54 -0700 (MST) From: beesley@primenet.com (Brad Beesley) Subject: Re: California on the LRO List Mark ----SNIP------ >Following a business trip to Las Vegas I am contemplating a trip to Los >Angeles, CA. A few have metioned to me that LA is somewhat dangerous with >heavy congestion on the freeways and lacks the greater sights of other >California cities. ----SNIP------ Welcome to California I live about 10 minutes from LAX (Los Angeles International Airport) and can give you many tips and details about the LA area. As far as the danger aspect, LA is kind of like any other big city... certain places are better than others, and rush hour is all day long. Actually it is not that bad. Where are you from? E-mail me directly if you want. (save the LRO bandwidth). Brad Beesley ___________________________________________________________________ beesley@primenet.com Seven Thorns of the Crown http://www.primenet.com/~beesley/ ___________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------[ <- Message 62 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 12:35:27 -0500 (EST) From: Chris Haslam <haslam@alcor.concordia.ca> Subject: RR: Lubricating the Speedometer Cable What kind of grease do people recommend? I know that white grease picks up moisture. It used to be used on helicopters, but no longer! ...chris 88RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 63 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 10:16:36 -0800 (PST) From: Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.) <grea@net.gov.bc.ca> Subject: Subject: What is this Window Channel Stuff Chris Stevens wrote: >I removed the right hand window channels form my SRIIa 88" this afternoon >to survey the damage. Rust wasn't that bad, but all the furry stuff in the >side and lower channels was shot. What is this stuff? I my experiance, the green furry stuff in the window channels will last forever if you keep it well watered and a bi-weekly dusting of road dirt. I read somewhere that this was the LR "Herb Garden" option. (not available on the Disco or RR). g. ------------------------------[ <- Message 64 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com Subject: RE: Discovery quality Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 9:35:12 PST We've been hearing quite a bit from Discovery owners about quality quirks. What about the Defender 90 owners? Seems like they're not experiencing many problems. A few of the owners I talked to said they've enjoyed many trouble-free miles. Supposedly the two vehicles share the same drive train, and are made under the same roof, so I'm wondering what causes the discrepancy. Could it be due to the relative simplicity of the D90, or just the fact that there are fewer D90's around, so we don't hear as much about them? -- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Roger Peng (408)765-7863 Intel Corporation Design Technology, Physical CAD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 65 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 21 Nov 95 13:05:36 EST Subject: Re. Oil Filled Hub Jeremy Bartlett Expounds a theory: >If its apart, I'd say you should be replacing the seal at the end of >the axle housing, then repacking and seating the bearings. It seems [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] >got in your hubs the more likely you are to have some leak into the >brake drum... Filling the hub is extremely simple, if you're equipped with that type of hub. All you need do is pop the plug with the plug facing up and add it. To empty, turn the wheel over...it drains out. I do agree that grease will not tend to migrate as the oil does, but then again, how often do people repack? aj"Oil-filled and NOT leaking...much"r ------------------------------[ <- Message 66 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 10:10:19 -0800 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: Weird Wiring Combos 2.25l p wiring OK so weird wiring and LUCAS systems is repetitive but... As the days get shorter and darker it seemed appropriate to move my restoration project into the electrics :) Last night I began work on the main wiring harness. The original cloth braid wrap is now mostly rotted and partly falling off under its own weight and that of the grease and dirt accumulated over 30 years. In the process of removing the original cloth braid from the wiring harness it became apparent that some of the wires from the factory are plastic coated with color codes and some are cloth wrapped with color codes (black underneath). Has anyone else come across this (the vehicle is a '65 109)? Are the later vehicles all plastic and was LR only using up the last of its cloth wrap on these mid 60s models? Furthermore, close inspection of the parts diagrams and electrical circuits from the manuals and Haynes book reveal that the harness doesn't exactly match any of the examples provided. The differences do not appear to be entirely explained by the presence of options such as a Kodiak heater. I've not begun the careful diagnosis yet (having discovered only one shorted wire so far within the rotted cloth wrap) but this seems a little disconcerting. Again, has anyone else noticed such discrepencies? This entry into the realm of Mr. Lucas reminds me somewhat of those movie scenes where characters are trying to diffuse bombs by guessing at different colored wires. Cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 67 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 22 Nov 95 06:11:32 EST From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Center diff woes become ... > Has anyone had any experience with Disco or RR of the hand brake > sticking on and going on by itself at very slow speeds? I have been I'm slowly coming to the conclusion that they should weed out a couple of fruitcakes at certain assembly lines in Solihull who are obviously messing up things... I must explain that a friend of mine does 'grey imports' of Defenders to Germany via Holland (remember, Defenders aren't officially sold in Germany). Well, on 3 out of 5 Defenders we get, the transmission brake is badly/wrongly assembled or maladjusted and shudders or 'rips' at lower speeds, or even locks when comming to a standstill (like at red lights!). In one handbrake we dissassembled we found assorted debris, metal filings, a *cigarette butt* ?! and the linings were fouled with 90W. These are *brand new* cars, mind you, with 0.5 miles on the od. We don't deal in Discos or Rangies , but I wouldn't be surprised if the problem surfaces there as well. If I were a paranoid sort of person I'd even suspect sabotage. Maybe a staunch old Rover shop stewart who wants to take personal revenge for the company having been taken over by the huns... Attila in a Land Rover, just imagine! Stefan <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 68 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: 22 Nov 95 06:12:55 EST From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: What is this Window Channel Stuff > to survey the damage. Rust wasn't that bad, but all the furry stuff in the > side and lower channels was shot. What is this stuff? Can I recover the > channels after I sand out all the rust? Anyone have any experience with Dry moss, that's what it is :-) ! You'd have a lot of rattle and draught if you 'restore' them the way you propose. They're actually very cheap to replace, the real problem is where to find them. Stefan <Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com> ------------------------------[ <- Message 69 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Center diff woes become ... Date: Wed, 22 Nov 95 11:43:40 GMT Hey! Attila in a Land Rover! Didnt know you *knew* my mother in law Stefan. Mike Rooth ------------------------------[ <- Message 70 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 13:37:49 +0001 From: wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy Wassili) Subject: Re: Discovery Winch bulletin Doug, congratulations with your Discovery. I own a Avalon coloured Discovery. At first I thought it was blue too. But the longer I own the car the greener it becomes :-) Just wait and see.... LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR ____ | _____/|__|| Roy Wassili,<wassili@amc.uva.nl> | /(-8| \ | Avalon Green '95 Discovery, VG-XH-66 ____|_/[]__|__\___|# scarved for live |] __=| | __ |# [|_/ \|_____|_/ \_|] ( o ) ( o ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 71 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 07:49:18 -0500 From: Ron Taylor <rtaylor@coil.com> Subject: Re:Virus alert !!! At 3:18 AM 11/22/95, Kurt Reinhardt wrote: > Hi folks, > and now something completely different..... As many (but not all) of you know, this is a hoax. Reference: <ftp://mirrors.aol.com//pub/info-mac/vir/good-times-virus-hoax-faq.hqx> cheers... Ron Taylor ------------------------------[ <- Message 72 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Seymour, Gareth" <GSeymour@mp.sihe.ac.uk> Subject: subscribe Date: Wed, 22 Nov 95 12:53:00 PST subscribe ------------------------------[ <- Message 73 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Frames Date: Wed, 22 Nov 95 08:59:00 EST David Lowe writes: >Funding constraints prevent considering buying a new galvanized frame and = >supsension kit from ABP at $3,995. By the time I pay shipping to Alaska = >it would cost over $5,000. Since you have to pay shipping cost wherever it comes from why not buy from the UK? Frame plus springs and steering relay comes to about 900 quid assuming shipping to be about $1000 your cost would be $3000 or less than ABPs list price. Trevor Easton ------------------------------[ <- Message 74 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 08:19:26 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: Hub Rebuild, con't... > >> Hit a road block last night on my hub project ('66 IIa 88). I can't extract the inner oil seal from the hub, preventing me from removing the bearing. Any tricks? I thought of pounding out the whole race/bearing/seal assembly from the inside, but I don't have a brass drift and really didn't want to remove the races if I didn't have to. Place a few rags on the floor for padding, lay your brake drum on the rags on it's rim. Place the hub in the brake drum center hole with the studs uppermost. Take a wodden dowel and place it against the inner bearing and whack it. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 75 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar) Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 08:50:59 -0600 Subject: One-Man Brake Bleeder Hi all, I ran accross a tool that anyone contimplating a brake job might be interested in. A motorcycle guy I was talking to turned me on to it. Its called a One-Man Brake Bleeder, manufactured by CTA Manufacturing Corp. in Carlstadt, NJ, item # 1238. The tool consists of a hose and a one way check valve that fits over the bleeder. This allows one person to pump the air out, without reintroducing air or contiminated fluid back into the system. It was written ip in the June '95 Motorcycle Consumer News by Ray Englehardt. The author has used it on a variety of vehicles - a cycle, a SAAB, and a Ford pickup, and says it lives up to all its claims and he was able to successfully get all the air out of the system. Cost - $5.49. I gotta try this for six bucks. Anyone else use one of these? I'll report on my results. Tim --- tim harincar harincar@mooregs.com '66 IIa 88 SW ------------------------------[ <- Message 76 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 95 15:13:35 UT From: "Stephen Miller" <BOMILCAR@msn.com> Subject: Springs on 88 RR I have a 72 series III I use for off road and a 1988 RR I use for city and high way. I bought the 72 new and it is still number one on the list, but in Texas AC becomes a must in the summer months, thus the RR. I have finally saved enough $$$ to try and do something about the "slop" as the RR tries to corner. New shocks helped some but I think it is time think about springs. Any one have any experience using higher grade springs on an 88 RR? What did you use? How many $$$? Did it make a difference? How long did it take? Any help would be very much appreciated. Steve Houston TX USA 72 Series III SW 88 RR ------------------------------[ <- Message 77 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 09:48:45 GMT -0600 Subject: Re: One-Man Brake Bleeder > From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar) > To: Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com > X-To: lro@Land-Rover.Team.Net (LRO List) > Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 08:50:59 -0600 ABP used to sell (maybe they still do) a spring loaded bleed screw that owuld let one person bleed their brakes. Theory was that it would close on the up stroke to prevent air infiltration. I bought one but never put it to the test. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 78 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA> Subject: Inertia Reel Belts Date: Wed, 22 Nov 95 10:50:00 EST I have inertia reel belts in Miss Golightly. They are from a Volkwagen Rabbit and the reels are fitted to the back of the bulkhead. There are reinforcing brackets for the hardtop to provide a mounting above the shoulder, These were standard on SIII I think and can be retrofitted. The problem with leading the belt directly to the reel when running topless is just that, if one actually has an accident and the belt works in anger, you will probably suffer a broken collar bone due to the downward pull. Otherwise it works OK and doesn't pull you down to one side. I have to admit that my belts go straight to the reel as I find it is more comfortable for normal driving. Trevor Easton BTW My company server was constipated since last Wednesday and I haven't been able to communicate with the outside world until this morning. If you tried to get in touch with me, sorry for the delay and if your mail was bounced please try again now. ------------------------------[ <- Message 79 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Treit Le <Treit_Le@apprise.com> Date: 22 Nov 95 9:02:05 Subject: Dealer Part Prices in England I there a way to get a list of dealer prices on genuine parts? A friend is going back to England for Christmas and is willing to bring back some small items. I've seen prices for rear lamp guards ('95 Classic) in LRW at aftermarket shops, but am guessing that the parts are not genuine and that the prices must be much lower than the dealer's. Am I correct in assuming that it is pretty easy to find a Land Rover dealer in England (like finding a Ford dealer in the US)? ------------------------------[ <- Message 80 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 08:23:52 -0800 (PST) From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu> Subject: Re: Question of std equip on 95 NAS D90 Ross Leidy wrote: > Just so I don't feel cheated, did any of the 95 NAS D90's come with the > tonneau cover as standard equipment? ..<snip>..If it's no longer standard > equipment,anyone know how many $$ it is? Dear Ross: The '94 NAS D90 came with a tonneau cover standard, but no top or door tops (sliding windows). I believe that the '95 NAS D90 comes standard with the sloping soft top and door tops, but no tonneau cover. On the basis of cost, the '95 standard is a much better deal. The '94 tops and tonneau cover attach to the body by snaps, whereas the '95s switched to "bed rails." I do not believe that tonneau covers are made in the '95 bed rail style. I think that the "list price" of the '94 tonneau cover is about $400. A phone call to your LR dealer or another Land Rover supplier would answer your question more accurately.... Best wishes, David '94 NAS D90 ------------------------------[ <- Message 81 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 09:04:41 -0800 (PST) From: David Rosenbaum <rosenbau@u.washington.edu> Subject: RE: Discovery quality vs. NAS D90 Roger Peng wrote: > We've been hearing quite a bit from Discovery owners about quality > quirks. What about the Defender 90 owners? Seems like they're not > experiencing many problems...<snip>... so I'm wondering what > causes the discrepancy. Dear Roger, I believe that a lot of the difference has to do with the owners' expectations. My '94 NAS D90 has all sorts groans and squeeks and rattles that I could post to this list about, but *they are not important.* Most of the time they will be drowned out by the wind noise anyway. If not, I can *increase* the flapping of the soft top by opening one of the side windows, just so, and the wind noise goes way up: squeeks and rattles all gone! ;-) Soon after I got the D90, it stalled twice in rush hour traffic. The mechanic at Seattle Land Rover found some grease inside a connector associated with the computer module: very annoying problem, potentially tough to figure out, solved by a dedicated mechanic: actual fix was trivial! With the new RRs, Discoverys and D90s much more immersed in electronic and computer controls of this and that, our machines are more susceptible to the whims of the Great God Lucas. And since Discoverys have more electronic stuff than NAS D90s (?electric seats, windows, doorlocks...) they may heed Lucas' call more often. Hopefully though, the intrinsic toughness that is built into Land Rovers will have all of us owners of new beasts chatting about how to re-build this or that ....... in 20 years. Best wishes, David ------------------------------[ <- Message 82 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 17:09:04 +0000 From: C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.uk (Craig Morgan) Subject: Re: Virus Alert ("Good Times") is a hoax ... >There is a computer virus that is being sent across the Internet. If >you receive an e-mail message with the subject line "Good Times", DO >NOT read the message, DELETE it immediately. Please read the messages below. Please, please, please ... This is an old *hoax* which reappears like the proverbial bad apple, there is no such virus and you can not be infected by just reading a mail message. Before this takes hold again amongst the general Internet populus please help to stamp it out. Please don't let these lists (Land Rover related) suffer the fate of others I have seen which died, swamped by email and discussion regarding this hoax. Let's just let it lie, suffice to say that if people want to verify the non-existance of this virus, a search on any of the WWW search mechanisms will probably turn up many notes like this one! Chinese whispers travel fast on the Internet ... lets kill this one before it starts! -- Craig ,,, Wot, NO mountains! ======================oOO=(o o)=OOo=================================== Craig Morgan (_) Lecturer, CS Group School of Computing Email: C.Morgan@soc.staffs.ac.uk Staffordshire University Phone: +44 (0)1785 353466 Beaconside Fax: +44 (0)1785 353497 Stafford, UK ST18 0DG Pager: +44 (0)839 453754 "It's the downhill thrills, that make the uphill slog worthwhile..." ====================================================================== ------------------------------[ <- Message 83 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 09:33:00 -0800 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com> Subject: Re: I need a step up... In message <199511220931.EAA00541@butler.uk.stratus.com> writes: > Alan Richer steps up... ; > What does the entry step on a Series vehicle atach to? I need to attach ; side steps to my 109, as the leather uphostery is simply too high for > comfortable step-up entry. ; Leather? You have dolled up the interior with leather upholstry and your wife refuses to go inside? ; Side steps limit the kind of places you can travel through. They are fine if you drive on pavement, dirt roads, or open gentle terrain or beaches. Where you can get into trouble is when you are negotiating narrow trails/untrails with large objects waiting to rub against your sills. I think their biggest clearence problem is from the side and not the bottom. If you don't normally drive real close to objects sill height or higher, side steps are probably fine. I personally find that I'm always getting my 109's sills tickled by rocks, logs and brush. I ended up putting aluminum diamond plate over my sills so they wouldn't look so bad and to protect them (and the lower side edge of my underseat fuel tanks). I was looking at them the other day and noticed that the diamond plate was getting a little wavy too. Maybe I'm just a little sloppy in my driving, maybe the 109 just doesn't quite make some of the curves, but if I had side steps, they would be littering the mountains long before now and their mounting area and sills would be torn up when they were ripped out. If your driving doesn't include close encounters of the object kind, or if you are more careful than I seem to be, you should do fine with side steps. Vertical clearence should not be a problem. If you want vertical clearence problems get one of the new style Range Rovers with the side steps mounted. You might run aground on a parking lot speed bump. TeriAnn I will not be near my e-mail from Wed afternoon 'till Dec 11. ------------------------------[ <- Message 84 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 09:38:29 +0000 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Steering Stabilizer Bryan writes: >I am considering purchasing a steering stabilizer. Has anyone installed >one on a Series II and if so, what type did you use and where did you buy it? >I don't think that Rovers North carries them. I believe I saw a "Rancho" type >on a Series Rover in a magazine. I would appreciate any recommendations. As taken from the Series Aftermarket Parts List by Mike Hoskins, published at the URL in my signature, the shock part number are: Shock Absorber 88" Front RTC-4230 Gabriel G53494, Rancho* RS5163 Shock Absorber 88" Rear RTC-4232 Gabriel G53299, Rancho RS5169 HD Shock Absorber 88" Front RTC-4234 Gabriel G63494 HD Shock Absorber 88" Rear RTC-4235 Gabriel G63299 Shock Absorber 109" Front RTC-4483 Rancho RS5119(was RS5164) Shock Absorber 109" Rear RTC-4442 Rancho RS5117 HD Shock Absorber 109" Front RTC-4484 Rancho RS5164 HD Shock Absorber 109" Rear RTC-4236 Rancho RS5157 Steering Stabilizer STC-786 Rancho RS5402 *Rancho Customer Service 310-630-0700 I ordered a replacement Rancho stabilizer for the old bracket kit on my Series III --worked great, cleared up an oscillating shimmy at 50mph+ :) Bruce at DAP sells them (86 Clinton, Springfield, VT 05156 802-885-6660; Fax 802-885-6662), with shipping the price is what you would pay locally with tax, but I prefer to support Land Rover vendors who will get me the correct part. ______ Michael Carradine [__[__\== Rumpole of the Bay 510-988-0900 [________] Land-Rover 4x4 cs@crl.com ___________.._(o)__.(o)_____...o^^^+++++ '65 IIA 2.235m/88" _________________________________________________________________________ Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html ------------------------------[ <- Message 85 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 09:43:08 -0800 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" <twakeman@apple.com> Subject: Re: Virus alert !!! In message <199511220925.EAA00391@butler.uk.stratus.com> Kurt Reinhardt writes: ; > Hi folks, > and now something completely different..... > I`ve got this forwarded message today and even it doesn=B4t concern anything > related to Land Rover it seems to be important for us as internet user. ; Kurt, ; The warning message IS THE VIRUS and you have just spread it to hundreds of people. The message is a hoax that had been going around and around for well over a year now. Your computer can not get infected by a document. You need to run code for the code to do something. The virus needs to be in an application of some kind and you need to run that application. You can not get it by opening and reading a document unless the application that opens it has the virus. My guess is that the person who originated the warning had an idea for a new kind of virus. One that didn't do anything to your computer. It is the warning. All it does is travel around the world countless times visiting people's mail in boxes. It doesn't do anything except take up space & time. The vector for this new internet virus are well meaning people who do not understand how a normal computer virus infects a computer. i think I've gotten this one 10 or 11 times in the last year...sigh TeriAnn I will not be near my e-mail from Wed afternoon 'till Dec 11. ------------------------------[ <- Message 86 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: MFIELD@MOHAWK.WIC.EPA.GOV Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 13:41:19 -0500 (EST) Subject: Subscription subscribe digest ------------------------------[ <- Message 87 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: MFIELD@MOHAWK.WIC.EPA.GOV Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 13:54:27 -0500 (EST) Subject: Land Rover for sale To all who are interested: I still have my land rover for sale -- its a great deal just waiting for the right person. I need to sell asap. 1967 series IIA 109 regular LHD. NO rust. Newly rebuilt engine. Recently refurbished series III transmission. New NATO brush paint. Hard and soft tops. New high-back bucket seats and console in front. Six new rear jump seats (two installed). New accoustic sound proofing. New safety belts. New brakes. New tires. New carpeting (not installed). New ring-and-pinion gears ready to be installed for 24% on-road performance. New roof rack and ladder for hardtop. Engine is a four-cylinder gas model with specially hardened cylinder head for unleaded fuel. Dual master cylinder. It was appraised at $13,000 and may be worth more according to people I have talked with and that it should not be sold for less than $12,000. Those that have seen it and know rovers generally want to buy it but have been having difficulty obtaining financing. Please note, I am negotiable on the price but do need to sell because of employment and family concerns. Malcolm S. Field -- Maryland (202) 260-8921 work (301) 349-5712 home mfield@mohawk.wic.epa.gov e-mail ------------------------------[ <- Message 88 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 22 Nov 95 11:50:00 EST Subject: Re: What has it come too !!!! Mark Talbot blithers: >Just what is going on here, someone complaining about the wind noise in a 95 >Range Rover is loud he can't hear the other person on the cellular phone. Go >try it in a Series Land Rover. >Stop wasting e-mail space !!!!! Speak for yerself, mate. My Motorola DPC-550 works quite nicely in my IIa 109, even at highway speeds. Dialing the G$^%$E&% thing is another story.... Alan ------------------------------[ <- Message 89 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU> Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 17:03:34 GMT -0600 Subject: US Holiday To all you US subscribers out there, have a nice holiday and try not to spend too much of your time off from your real jobs working on those infernal machines. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. ------------------------------[ <- Message 90 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 18:40:42 From: DREAD@gnn.com () Subject: LRO Digest for 11/22 Was there a digest for 11/22? I didn't get one and I was wondering if perhaps my server was down. ------------------------------[ <- Message 91 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 95 01:30:56 +0100 From: sm095re@unidui.uni-duisburg.de (Kurt Reinhardt) Subject: sorry ! Hi out there, I never got such a lot of response to a mail, since my last virus alert. Sorry, as a net newbie I got it from a friend of mine in a serious manner, and I couldn`t know taht it is a joke. So it seems to me a question of honour to send it to the list. Sorry, if I have annoyed you with this. Mea culpa...:-( Kurt.... .. more interested in Land Rover than in computer technology :-) PS.: What a fortune that lucas doesn`t manufacture computers.... ------------------------------[ <- Message 92 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 20:29:08 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Camel Trophy Trials Ten candidates have been selected for the US Camel Trophy trials, to be held at the Hollister Hills ORV area in California December 9-10. Over two days, the candidates will be asked to run a six-minute mile, build log bridges, repair a purposely-impaired Land Rover, prepare their own meals and generally survive a non-stop marathon of stress designed to push each to their limits. Four finalists will advance to the international selection trials, where two will be chosen to compete in the 17th adventure in Borneo. Needless to say, the candidates are a fit bunch. One was a Navy UDT, two are marathon runners and all have off-road vehicle skills, either in motorcycle endurance races or four wheeling. The candidates are: Thomas Baynard,27, Chester Springs, PA Jeffrey Brandner, 31, Chester, NJ Kenneth Cameron, 26, Vail, CO Stuart Dahlin, 35, Watertown, SD Kevin Hines, 35, East Wareham, MA Fred Hoess, 29, Stanhope, NJ Jonah Houston, 29, Monterey, CA James Lyaons, 30, Davis, CA Gregory Oberst, 36, Seal Beach, CA Mark Ritter, 33, Marietta, GA Mark is a member of the Atlanta area Rover club. P.S. Is the digest down again? *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 93 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 21:24:47 -0800 (PST) From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us> Subject: Re: Springs on 88 RR On Wed, 22 Nov 1995, Stephen Miller wrote: > I have finally > saved enough $$$ to try and do something about the "slop" as the RR tries to [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > you use? How many $$$? Did it make a difference? How long did it take? > Any help would be very much appreciated. I would like to hear from others on this, but when I was shopping used RRs, I encountered one (a 1989) that had a severe case of the wallows, and several people suggested that this was a case of bad bushings. My present 88 RR handles very well (123K miles) and I believer it was treated to new shocks (Ranchos) and bushings. It has, as far as I know, the original springs. Any comments? Walt Swain * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Walter C. Swain | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us * * Davis Community Network | 1988 Range Rover * * Davis, California | 1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ------------------------------[ <- Message 94 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 22:58:24 -0800 From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com> Subject: Discovery models (toys) Got the RoverLog from Atlantic British. They have what sure looks like the Britains model of the Disco that my sister brought back from England for me. Cost is $24.95, looks to be available in burgandy and Dark Blue. They also have a Police Discovery model for $19.95. White, with yellow/red stripes and lights on top. AB is at: Atlantic British Ltd Box 110 Rover Ridge Drive Mechanicville, NY 12118 1-800-533-2210 (Orders) 1-518-664-6641 (Fax) Enjoy! --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California ------------------------------[ <- Message 95 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 89 lines 3803 [forwarded 180 whitespace 945] Output: lines 3135 [content 1805 forwarded 169 (cut 11) whitespace 940] | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]From: howtaw@hg.uleth.ca Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 04:14:29 MST Subject: Land Rovers in Southern Alberta Hi, I just found this site this week and thought it looked good. My name is Andrew and I'm presently driving my 4th Land Rover. It is a 1982 exmilitary 109 with a 2.5L petrol engine I whipped up from parts on hand. I'm also building a 110 from parts, not sure if I will go for 2 or 5 door format, as time and money permit (both in short supply as I am going to the U of L full time). Are there any Land Rover owners in or near southen Alberta who get together, ie.events, clubs, trips, etc........ How about US boarder States? Also I can be of help to anyone else who is tring to build from military scrap. A friend of mine has a 101 and some other stuff for sale, anyone interested? Please respond here or Email me at howtaw@hg.uleth.ca ------------------------------[ <- Message 97 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]From: "Richard Lucking" <BU063@ist2.co.umist.ac.uk> Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 11:39:34 GB/EIRE Subject: Re: Wierd Wiring....! Over the summer I rebuilt my SIIa SWB on a new chassis, which I managed to complete, from driving it into the garage to driving it out again, in only 8 days - is this a record ;-) which, inbetween buying hundreds of nuts and bolts, I managed to recover some of the loom, and make new sections for other bits. I remade the secion from the Bulkhead rearwards, and from the bulkhead to the fromt lights (From the connectors) I recovered most of the rest. DON'T use adhesive tape, as it causes dust and stuff to work its way in, and causes a horrible mess, and wears the wires away quicker. There is "Special" loom tape which in not adhesive. It is not easy to use, but you will get the hang of it. (I apologise if you know this, and I am just being patronising... It is what I am best at :-) ). The best way I found to rewire was to completely remove the section, measure where each wire came out of the loom, how long it was etc (measure everything!) Then find out what colour it should be, and buy some more, then lay the sections out, and rewrap them! I hop this is of use to somebody! If you have any queries, then don't forget I am a computation student, not English, so I have trouble making any sense!! Cheers Richard PS. If Rupert with the 101 in Edinburgh who knows me reads this, then please email me! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Richard Lucking phone:(0161) 224 6641 (Term) email:bu063@ist2.co.umist.ac.uk (Flat 48) Life is a Sexually Transmitted Disease, invariably fatal Disclaimer: All opinions are my own, or so I've been told.... ===================================================================== ------------------------------[ <- Message 98 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 12:08:01 GMT From: mfarrall@well.ox.ac.uk (Martin Farrall) Subject: Re: One-Man Brake Bleeder In the UK, Gunson sell a kit which works very well. I've used it on two landrovers and two other vehicles and find it very easy and convenient to use. The kit comprises a fresh fluid reservoir, with a siphon tube and a fairly wide selection of screw-caps to connect to the brake top-up reservoir and an air-tube that connects to a tyre valve (to pressurise the system). All you have to do is open up the bleed valves and the fluid drains under pressure. You do not need much pressure to do this, 15 lbs is sufficient. Martin Farrall ------------------------------[ <- Message 99 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 08:50:50 -0500 From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith) Subject: Chassis selection In reference to wdcockey's request about researching his 88 chassis. We change a ton of chassis over the course of a year and we stick with Marsland. I'm not trying to sound like an advertisement, but I know what works, and we have tried just about every chassis out there. We have had big problems fitting the Walkers without a lot of re-work. The Marslands always bolts in. The worst we ever have to do is clean up a bit of goopy galvanizing, but that is perfectly normal. Sometimes companies offering original chassis are just that. In my experience what happens is that they locate a batch of ex-military chassis that were built by Rover. They then have them galvanized and can sell them as original L/Rover galvanized chassis, and it is true, that's what they are. All chassis nowadays should have the removalbe cross member. Someone called me the other day and said Rovers North may be offering 88 military frames if you are interested. They most likely cost more though. If you want a coil chassis for your series Rover look me up. Good luck. Mike Smith, East Coast Rover Co. Mike Smith, East Coast Rover Co. ------------------------------[ <- Message 100 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 08:50:46 -0500 From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith) Subject: welcome >Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 08:37:54 -0500 >To:ericz@cloud9.net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)] >don't see many Rovers on the interstates, especially not a red Stage I! >Mike Smith, East Coast Rover Co. Mike Smith, East Coast Rover Co. ------------------------------[ <- Message 101 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 01:00:26 -1000 From: Alan Smedley <alans@mpx.com.au> Subject: Re: RR Heated windscreen >Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 08:09:43 -0800 >From: aminner@ix.netcom.com (Allen Minner ) [ truncated by lro-digester (was 13 lines)] > 1989 First year of higher output engine, ABS available in County > edition only, first year of heated windshield? > 1990 ABS brakes standard I have only seen heated windscreen on vehicles prepared for racing. I have been wondering about their availability for general consumption. Can anyone tell me if heated windscreens are readily available as after market items on Range Rovers? Is the wiring already installed for this though the screen is not fitted? :-) Alan Smedley (-: :-) Plymoth Blue '92 Range Rover (-: ------------------------------[ <- Message 102 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 01:00:24 -1000 From: Alan Smedley <alans@mpx.com.au> Subject: Re: RR aftermarket spoiler and air vent cover I have seen pictures of a very nice looking moulded aftermarket "spoiler" which fits over the roof on the back of the Range Rover, also forming a wind deflector for the back window. On the photo I saw it was color coded to the cars colour and included a changed "cover" on the through flow vents on the rear sides as well. I saw the photo at a dealer but he was reluctant to tell me more about the "Spoiler Kit". I asume its from UK as the vehicle had english plates. Can anyone tell me where about such a kit and where it comes from, also where I can see any pictures of similar devices. Also what are these items worth? :-) Alan Smedley (-: :-) Plymoth Blue '92 Range Rover (-: ------------------------------[ <- Message 103 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 01:00:23 -1000 From: Alan Smedley <alans@mpx.com.au> Subject: Re: RR fuel economy - why so bad? >Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 12:10:40 -0800 >From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com> [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] >Russ Burns >91 D-90 >94 R-ROver I posted a question about fule consumption on Range Rovers a few days ago. Comparing an '87 3.5 RR with a '92 3.9 RR I went from 400Kms per tank to 300Kms with similar load and same style of city driving. So there has to be more to it than just the size and shape of the vehicle. No matter what I do I am unable to get any better than 320-325Kms around the city. I have had near to 600Kms on a long trip which is what I was able to get on the '87 RR. I am still awaiting suggestions as to how best to improve on the fuel consumption. :-) Alan Smedley (-: :-) I wish I was that smart (-: ------------------------------[ <- Message 104 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 01:00:27 -1000 From: Alan Smedley <alans@mpx.com.au> Subject: Re: Oil Consumption >Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 12:21:37 -0600 >From: Insoo@ceramatec.com (Insoo Bay) [ truncated by lro-digester (was 15 lines)] >BTW, I have to confess I started using the synthetic oil after 1000 mile >(currently, 7600 mile)-I know its my mistake. I just gave too much love.- >Does it cause problem due to not correctly sitting piston rings? At about 59,000Kms I found that my '92 Range Rover was using about one litre of oil every 1000Kms. I had not noticed this before as the vehicle is new for me. I have the car serviced every 5000Kms. The dealer told me that oil consumption on the 3.9 litre engine increased over the 3.5 litre engine. At 210,000Kms my '87 RR burned very little oil at all. The dealer said he replaces the valve guide seals with a different stlye seal. This took about 3 hours to do as he does not have to remove the heads to do the work. The oild consumption now is about zero. I just dipped the sump at 62,500Kms and the level is OK. Tell me about Synthetic Oil. What are the pros and cons of its use? :-) Alan Smedley (-: :-) Plymoth Blue '92 Range Rover (-: ------------------------------[ <- Message 105 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]From: Marcus Haas <marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk> Subject: Wiring looms Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 14:02:12 +0000 (GMT) On the subject of wiring looms, Land Rover were certainly using the braided cloth wrap and individually cloth wrapped wires beyond the mid-sixties if my 1970 Station Wagon is anything to go by. Marcus. ------------------------------[ <- Message 106 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 15:53:06 +0001 From: wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy Wassili) Subject: LRO went mad again!? Has the LRO went mad again!? A few seconds ago I received some mailing from the past, old news I might say, wich I received earlier when these mails were new news. I also received a digest with a datestamp November 23, 1995 with messages wich were datestamped November 21, 1995. This is really confuses me because I subscribed myself to real-time list( land-rover-owner ). Is this once again one of Lucas's ugly tricks? I wish you all a nice weekend, and be carefull out there.... LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR ____ | _____/|__|| Roy Wassili,<wassili@amc.uva.nl> | /(-8| \ | Avalon Green '95 Discovery, VG-XH-66 ____|_/[]__|__\___|# scarved for live |] __=| | __ |# [|_/ \|_____|_/ \_|] ( o ) ( o ) ------------------------------[ <- Message 107 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: 24 Nov 1995 10:00:10 GMT From: "Anthony Verriello" <verriello_anthony@jpmorgan.com> Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest >>>>From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com >>>>Subject: RE: Discovery quality >>>>Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 9:35:12 PST >>>>We've been hearing quite a bit from Discovery owners about quality >>>>quirks. What about the Defender 90 owners? Seems like they're not [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] >>>>D90, or just the fact that there are fewer D90's around, so we don't >>>>hear as much about them? Rest assured that D90 owners have our share of little quality issues... I believe that the difference is that the D90 owners are a different sort of animal. Anyone that buys a D90, buys it understanding the nature of the beast. Whats the point in complaining about the rear tire carrier rumbling (see a much earlier post from me ;-> ) or the seats squeaking when you cant hear the passenger who is now screaming at you over the wind noise, and tire noise for those of us with the Muds (pre-yuppy-ized D90s). Not that I mean to label Disco owners as complainers or All terain wearing D90 owners as yuppies.... :-) PS. If Ive offended anyone, just let me say I wave to all LR on the road...even the "expensive" ones verriello_anthony@jpmorgan.com +-+--+-@ |_|_/|__\__ | _ |' |_ |} (Dagwood...named for his voracious appetite, =(_)=+==(_)' petrol not sandwiches) NAS '94 black D90 (happiness is pulling a jeep out of a hole) Pre-requisite anal-retentive disclaimer to follow::: The views and opinions expressed here are solely my own and do not imply the opinion or view of my employer or any one else in any way. ------------------------------[ <- Message 108 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]From: LANDROVER@delphi.com Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 10:14:23 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: New type of gas guage Someone said.... > I assume that the seal between the fill tube and the tank is > broken. However, I'm not sure how to a) determine exactly where > the crack is and b) seal same. - Your fill tube has a rubber hose that connects it to the tank. Two hoses, actually, a large fill hose and a smaller vent hose. You can get access very easily to the bottom of the hoses by moving the seat. For a 1971, you probably have the adjustable seats. Take out the bottom seat cushion and remove the four 1/2 nuts that hold the seat frame in. Remove the frame and you'll have lots of room to play in! Each hose has a clamp, which you should check for tightness. The hoses themselves may be cracked, which could cause the leakage. Chances are the leak is on the tank and not the hoses. Under the seat frame there should be a cover plate screwed to the seat box. About six screws hold it on. Remove the cover plate and there's the top of the tank. There are two items attached to the top of the tank - three is you have emmissions controls. The fuel guage sender is a round plate with a wire attached. The fuel pick up the other. With emmisions controls there is a vent line which looks like the fuel pick-up from the outside. All of these have cork gaskets. If the gaskets aren't sealing correctly, they will leak if the tank is overfilled. If they have leaked, you'll see evidence of the leakage in the accumulated dirt and dust on top of the tank. > Speaking of gas, is 9.7 miles/gallon what I should expect??? - That's pretty poor. You should see something around 15 MPG (US). Cheers Michael Loiodice E-MAIL landrover@delphi.com 166 W.Fulton St. VOICE (518) 725-1859 Gloversville NY, 12078 -USA- 1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney") 7 1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern") #:-}> 1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts) ------------------------------[ <- Message 109 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com> Subject: Re: RR aftermarket spoiler and air vent cover Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 15:31:17 +0000 (GMT) Alan Smedley writes: > I have seen pictures of a very nice looking moulded aftermarket "spoiler" > which fits over the roof on the back of the Range Rover, also forming a wind > deflector for the back window. It is part of a kit designed by TWR (Tom Wilkinshaw (sp??) Racing) who just happen to be one of the Local Land Rover dealers. The complete kit consited of the following all colour matched to the body: Integrated front bumper and spoiler * Rear bumper * Side "skirts" really just replaced the rubber molding below the doors * Roof spoiler Rear quarter panels The parts marked with * were standard fit on the Range Rover "In Brookland Green" limited edition and some later LSE's. Also available as an LRP option on other models. I have seen adverts in LRO International for the TWR kits from time to time. > I asume its from UK as the vehicle had english plates. Can anyone tell me > where about such a kit and where it comes from, also where I can see any > pictures of similar devices. Also what are these items worth? The rear bumper is fun if you want to fit a tow bar ... take a deep breath and start hacking a hole in your nice shiny new bumper. __ _ __ Apricot Computer Limited ' ) ) / 3500 Parkside Tel: (+44) 121 717 7171 /--' o _. /_ Birmingham Business Park Fax: (+44) 121 717 0123 / <_<_(__/ <_ BIRMINGHAM B37 7YS Richard Jones United Kingdom Email: richardj@apricot.mee.com ------------------------------[ <- Message 110 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]From: "Steve Methley" <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 16:12:37 +0000 Subject: Re: RR fuel economy - why so bad? >Comparing an '87 3.5 RR with a '92 3.9 RR I went from 400Kms per tank to >300Kms with similar load and same style of city driving. What is the fuel tank size and weight of each vehicle? -- Best Regards, Steve. ------------------------------[ <- Message 111 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 11:24:03 -0500 (EST) From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens) Subject: Turkey And The Window Channels To Mike, Sandy, Mark et al: thanks for the window channel advice. Tried my own home cooked recipe...appropriately enough on Thanksgiving...for the repairs. Here's the recipe: - Window channels, rusted, and defelted. - Sandblaster or wire brush on electric drill. - Plasticoat (Black, Red, Green...your choice) - Spool of Self Adhesive Velcro (the felt stuff side) Blast or brush the channels. Brush on a few coats of Plasticoat. Line the insides with Velcro felt. Re-install. It's a lot more work than buying some new ones from RN, but definitely cheaper. And hey, what else are you going to do on Thanksgiving? BTW no felts were killed. Chris Stevens 1969 SRIIa 88" SW Beckett Klay Communications 100 West Road Baltimore, Maryland 21204 USA (410) 583-1722 (410) 583-1935 (FAX) chrisste@Clark.net ------------------------------[ <- Message 112 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Wed, 22 Nov 1995 00:23:43 -0800 From: cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chris Youngson) Subject: Re: LR related Email addresses >To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net >Chris Youngson writes: [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)] > /--' o _. /_ Birmingham Business Park Fax: (+44) 121 717 0123 > / <_<_(__/ <_ BIRMINGHAM B37 7YS > Richard Jones United Kingdom Email: richardj@apricot.mee.com Thanks, 73 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Chris Youngson cyoungso@direct.ca 1965 Series IIA 109 3 Door West Vancouver Limestone (in pieces) British Columbia Canada Amateur Radio: VE7CST ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------[ <- Message 113 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]From: SLYKDYK@aol.com Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 15:23:08 -0500 Subject: Re: extended warranties ...Disco's My spouse is adamant about purchasing an extended warranty on our 95 Disco with about 12,000 miles on it. It seems to me there was a thread on this a couple of weeks ago..Can you buy them thru any dealer? Are there warranties available without the outrageous dealer mark up? Who has the best warranty? etc, etc? ------------------------------[ <- Message 114 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 24 Nov 95 7:21:34 EST Subject: Steppin' in with an idea... Thinking about steps got me in tinkerers mood.... I think I have an answer to the problem of off-road clearance coupled to ease of mounting otherwise. I'm going to hack together a removable step, from square tube and such (that is, when Talbot gets me back my bl***y welder....<grin>...) This way, Amanda can get in and out without resorting to ropes and pitons, and I still have all the clearnace I need. Opinions? Alan ------------------------------[ <- Message 115 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 17:02:27 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice) Subject: Window channel I've replaced mine with stainless steel channel purchased at a ship chandler (we've got a *bunch* of them locally). Derlin bottom slides, with synthetic 'fuzz' on the sides so no more felts need be slaughtered to make more. I thonk the single 8' section is less than $20 while the double track is about $25 or less. The OEM stuff just doesn't last. In less that three years, the steel track was full of rust/moss/detritus and unuseable. The stainless stuff is the way to go. Cheers *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----* | A. P. (Sandy) Grice | | Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 | | E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) | | 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 | *-----------------------------------------------------* ------------------------------[ <- Message 116 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com> Date: 23 Nov 95 8:11:37 EST Subject: Re: I need a step up... Re: Leather: So what's everybody got against a little comfort? 8*) Re: Steps: Actually, I had a brainstorm this morning. What would folks think of a removable side-step or peg that popped out like a receiver hitch ball? The mount would stay safely ensconced under the sill, projecting only an inch or so. The step could be un-pinned and removed when boonies travel was in the offing. Gotta think about this....I think there are possibilities here..... Alan P.S.: I wouldn't bother with the step, but my 10-year-old is getting tired of using climbing gear to get in the truck.....8*) ajr wHEN ------------------------------[ <- Message 117 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: 24 Nov 95 17:21:13 EST From: Mark Ritter <70472.1130@compuserve.com> Subject: Looking for RR A good friend of mine just sold his 325 BWM and wants a 91' Hunter Range Rover. This was the model w/ cloth seats and no sunroof. He is not online but you can call him at 770-641-0147. His name is Jack Walter. If you would rather do this by E-mail send it to me. Mark Ritter ------------------------------[ <- Message 118 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: 24 Nov 95 18:57:57 EST From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com> Subject: Colored Wire Richard Lucking Writes >> The best way I found to rewire was to completely remove the section, measure where each wire came out of the loom, how long it was etc (measure everything!) Then find out what colour it should be, and buy some more, then lay the sections out, and rewrap them! << This reminded me, does anyone know of a source for multicolored wire? I know lots of sources for single color wire, but none that has a colored tracer. Preferably in the US. ------------------- | | | | _ _ ____|____ _ _ | Rob Dennis O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O 73363.427@Compuserve.com \____===_=====_===____/ Atlanta, GA USA |oo |(_)###(_)| oo| (404) 875-4537 | | ### | | | | ####### | | 1972 SerIII 88 |_____|_#######_|_____| 1990 RangeRover [_______________________] |\/| |\/| Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com On 24-Nov-1995 ------------------------------[ <- Message 119 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Subject: Re: Colored Wire Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 16:36:09 -0800 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> In message <199511242357.SAA05278@butler.uk.stratus.com>you wrote: > >> The best way I found to rewire was to completely remove the section, > measure where each wire came out of the loom, how long it was etc [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)] > lots of sources for single color wire, but none that has a colored tracer. > Preferably in the US. I think British Pacific (Burbank, CA) carries the correct color coded wires for Rovers (and the bullet connector and...) I don't know the cost though. BP can be contacted at: 1-800-554-4133 or by FAX at: 818-841-3825 or email at: BRITPAC@aol.com Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. He'd drive it up the Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..." --Kevin Archie ------------------------------[ <- Message 120 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Subject: One-Man Brake Bleeder Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 17:14:44 -0800 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> Tom Rowe wrote: > ABP used to sell (maybe they still do) a spring loaded bleed screw > that owuld let one person bleed their brakes. Theory was that it > would close on the up stroke to prevent air infiltration. > I bought one but never put it to the test. I don't know where the ones that I have came from (previous owner tricks), but I wouldn't suggest them. Mechanically they have a a main body and a spring loaded plunger. This seems like a good idea, right? No. If you do a lot of fording, or even just driving on wet roads, the plunger tends to rust/jam inside the bleed hole. Sometimes the springs break. Every time I had to bleed the breaks, I had to replace the whole damn bleed screw assembly. And most of the time, I had to sit under the Rover with a pair of needle nose pliers trying to extract the jammed plunger from the bleed screw hole. I switched back to standard bleed screws and have a friend assist me with bleeding the breaks. Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. He'd drive it up the Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..." --Kevin Archie ------------------------------[ <- Message 121 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 21:05:08 -0500 From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall B. Thomas) Subject: Headliner, EFI, Help! Dearest List, It seems that the headliner in my 67 88" IIA "Chipper" has faired considerably better in it's 28 years than the one on my wifes beloved 88 Range Rover "Shredder". It appears the glue that holds the fabric to the molded piece has now completely failed leaving me with the following: 1. On a cold dry day, the headliner fabric is stretched tight as a drum from the roof edges to the dome lights. This doesn't look too bad and I could probably leave it this way except,; 2. On a warm moist day, the bloomin thing is like the Maharaji's tent, hanging down to the level of the top of my head. Very annoying. My wife is 4' 11" (metric equiv: "real short") so she doesn't complain. This is most fortunate as it allows me the time to fix it right. So, given that, does anyone else have this problem? I can't be an isolated case. Is there an appropriate adhesive I should use once I get the headliner out of the car? One that won't degrade after 5 years like this one did? I'm looking at 3M spray stuff but don't want to go to the trouble of doing this job without at least an 87% confidence factor. I suspect Land Rover used a heat/vacuum process with a thermoset adhesive, but I unfortunately don't have access to this kind of equipment. Any hard learned experience would be appreciated. Onto the fuel injection: Several months ago, the EFI light started coming on. I noticed that if I rebooted the control unit, (power cycled) I could get it to shut off but it would relight after a few hours of driving. After checking the entire system(over several weeks) I finally isolated the problem to a slow oxygen sensor. Okay, so you know how it goes, if you've got one bad one you better replace both, right? Well, I've now got 2 gorgeous new O2 sensors sitting in their boxes (a small fortune). It's a simple matter to remove the sensors from the exhaust downpipes, BUT! I cannot for the life of me get my hands anywhere near the connectors to unplug and/or plug in the new ones. Their located above the tranny bell housing. Has anyone performed this operation? Is their some other access? The factory manual is extremely unhelpful as usual. Cheers, Randall Lancaster County Pennsylvania 67 88"IIA "Chipper" 88 Range Rover "Shredder" 70 Rover P6B "Fred" Fred is dead but came with an organ donor card. 70 Rover P6B "Ethyl" under restoration. ------------------------------[ <- Message 122 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 18:36:06 -0800 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: Manifold Bolts/Studs 2.25 l - Info? I have been rather surprised to find that neither the LR shop manual, the LR parts catalogue, the Haynes book, nor any second party catalogues show the complete bolt and/or stud pattern for the intake and exhaust manifold to block attachment for the 2.25l p engine. The LR parts catalogue shows only the lower studs and in the parts listing there is a gap in the listed parts at this point [ :( ! ]. Furthermore, comparing the RN catalogue and remnants (see below) of the original engine the LR parts catalogue appears to be incomplete. Does anyone out there have the details on which bolts and studs are required at which location to mount both the intake and exhaust manifold? I believe I've figured the exhaust out based on the exhaust manifold kit and a couple of different figures. The intake looks a lot more straight forward, but I'd like to get some confirmation if possible. The biggest concern I've got on the exhaust manifold is the center 2 bolts. I assume that these are long bolts that bear the butterfly washers at their ends. My interpretation of the exhaust manifold kit, and figures is that 2 long bolts go on the outer lower, (thicker on the manifold) locations, the 2 short bolts go on the upper inner, and the 1 stud is mounted in the center at the single hole. The 2 sides get the lock tabs and the center a lock washer. It appears possible to install the inlet manifold (it's dark out now and I'm going by memory) using only a suite of comparably sized 5/16 bolts. Any comments or detailed peculiarities here? I'm asking all the above because I'm attaching the manifolds to a "new" rebuilt engine. The old block, unfortunately, does not have sufficient of the original studs (or bolts, but I think it was too early for that) left to pattern after. The PO seems to have started working on the manifolds and in the process disposed of a number of studs, except for the 2 sheared off remanants in the exhaust to pipe junction :( (probably gave a nice "harley" like sound). [On the positive side he did leave a 14mm socket in the exhaust manifold by way of compensation :) (Another story for another time). Well time to shut up on this one. Thanks for any info. Cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 123 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 21:51:33 -0500 From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith) Subject: Thanks digest members... Thanks for all the warm welcome email (and one complaint). I appreciate it. It's nice to know that this lro-network is run so well, just sorry we are so long in getting here. Alan and I look forward to offering any help we can to fellow Rover owners. Mike Smith, East Coast Rover co. Mike Smith, East Coast Rover Co. ------------------------------[ <- Message 124 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 18:59:26 -0800 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: Alternator Mounting - Aargh Well, come to attach the mountings for a new (Delco 100 amp rebuilt) alternator to a 2.25l petrol engine (a new Turner rebuild) and it appears that the alternator mounts cannot be removed/reattached without removal of the starter dog! DAMN! (Why is everything "new" I have actually rebuilt old :)? ) Why couldn't they have designed that mounting location 1/3" to the right? As I recall this dog has about a 100 ft/lb torque setting, and it's size is going to require at least a new spanner, more properly a whopping socket. Given the length of the bolt required for the alternator/dyanamo mount I don't see anyway around it, but I thought I'd check if I'm missing some trick or something. (Aw come on, can't I just cut the bracket with a hacksaw and silicone it back when I'm done :) ). The LR manuals don't discuss bracket mounting, being content to deal only with the actual component removal/replacement. AaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggHhhhhhhhhhhh! Jeremy ------------------------------[ <- Message 125 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]Subject: Re: Manifold Bolts/Studs 2.25 l - Info? Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 19:04:56 -0800 From: Benjamin Allan Smith <bens@archimedes.vislab.navy.mil> Jeremy Bartlett wrote: > I have been rather surprised to find that neither the LR shop manual, > the LR parts catalogue, the Haynes book, nor any second party catalogues [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] > Does anyone out there have the details on which bolts and studs are > required at which location to mount both the intake and exhaust > manifold? This is how I have my 2.25 Liter Petrol manafolds set up B S B S B ,O, ,O, ,O, ,O, ,O, ,O, ,O, ,O, OOEOO OOIOO OOIOO OOEOO OOEOO OOIOO OOIOO 00E00 LB `O' MB `O' `O' BUT `O' `O' BUT `O' `O' MB `O' LB B = short bolt S = stud LB = longest bolt MB = medium bolt But = Bolt with "butterfly" dog Manifold pipes with an "E" in the center are Exhaust and "I" means intake. I'm not sure if the LB or But uses the longer bolt. It should be fairly obvious. All of my bolts/nuts use a 1/2" (American) wrench/spanner. Usually I bolt the ehause manifold and the intake manifold together and bolt them to the block as one unit. The bitch is always the bolts with the butterfly dogs. It always take me about a half an hour to get those two bolts in because it is a pain in the tail to actually get them into their respecive holes at the right angles to get the threads to catch. Ben ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Benjamin Smith------------bens@vislab.navy.mil---------1972 Land Rover SIII 88 Science Applications International Corporation Naval Air Warfare Center, Weapons Division, China Lake "...If I were running such a contest, I would specifically eliminate any entry from Ben involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. He'd drive it up the Amazon basin for a half can of Jolt and a stale cookie..." --Kevin Archie ------------------------------[ <- Message 126 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]From: Andy Dingley <dingbat@codesmth.demon.co.uk> Subject: Range Rover front propshaft Date: Sat, 25 Nov 1995 03:00:04 GMT What's up with my front prop shaft ? It's a fairly normal shaft, two Cardan joints and a sliding spline. The unusual part is that the two yokes on my shaft don't line up - is this normal ? Every other Cardan shaft I've ever seen keeps the spiders in alignment. It's been like this ever since I bought the vehicle. I've not noticed any vibration, although I have had a diff pinion bearing break up on me. In the past the prop has seen some abuse (the shaft is scored, and had lost its gaiter when I bought it), so I'm wondering if I have a shaft and front yoke from two entirely different shafts ! When I compare the alignment marks (stamped arrows), the two halves appear to be aligned correctly. This is what makes me suspect I have two halves of different shafts. Could I trouble another Rangie owner ('85 or thereabouts) to stick their head underneath and take a look. Do your spiders line up at each end ? Thanks. I'm off to Bosnia in a week, so I really _don't_ need propshaft problems en route ! ------------------------------[ <- Message 127 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 951125 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST Input: messages 34 lines 4310 [forwarded 307 whitespace 1035] Output: lines 4021 [content 2707 forwarded 239 (cut 68) whitespace 1013]Forward
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