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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Donald Abbot [donald@spl18Re: One-Man Brake Bleeder
2 Donald Abbot [donald@spl31Re: Inertia Reel Belts
3 Easton Trevor [TEASTON@D15Rover Car Part Wanted
4 rthomas@postoffice.ptd.n20Re: RR: Lubricating the Speedometer Cable
5 rthomas@postoffice.ptd.n19Re: What is this Window Channel Stuff
6 sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM 30One man bleed kits
7 "jean gruneberg" [grunbe30 Airbags
8 LTC Larry Smith [smithla23 Window Channels
9 Rob Bailey [baileyr@cuug19Re: sorry !
10 DREAD@gnn.com () 25New type of gas guage
11 jpappa01@interserv.com 24Re: D90 4-Sale
12 ecrover@midcoast.com (Mi49Al frames?!! EEEK!
13 lopezba@atnet.at 23Re: Children / Airbags
14 Phairoj Phatsorpinyosaku7Lots of Water!!!
15 cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chri20LR related Email addresses
16 "Soren Vels Christensen"71Lawrence in surgery.
17 Wdcockey@aol.com 11Re: Al frames (Genuine LR Frames?)
18 "Soren Vels Christensen"26LR club in Poland
19 "Gerald" [g@ix.netcom.co20Re: Good Times Virus alert !!!
20 LANDROVER@delphi.com 37Re: Weird Wiring Combos 2.25l p wiring
21 ericz@cloud9.net 51Misc. Tips and Some Questions
22 bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian4750TH ANNIVERSARY TOUR OF SOUTH AFRICA


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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 09:44:37 +0200 (GMT+0200)
From: Donald Abbot <donald@spl.co.za>
Subject: Re: One-Man Brake Bleeder

On Wed, 22 Nov 1995, Tim Harincar wrote:

> Carlstadt, NJ, item # 1238. The tool consists of a hose and a one way check 
> valve that fits over the bleeder. This allows one person to pump the air out,

I had one of these and have successfully used it. Unfortunately, it 
doesn't last forever. The remnants of the brake fluid caused the one-way 
valve to harden and fail. Probably one should clean it before packing it 
away after use.

Nowadays I use an Eezibleed.

Donald

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 10:19:43 +0200 (GMT+0200)
From: Donald Abbot <donald@spl.co.za>
Subject: Re: Inertia Reel Belts

On Wed, 22 Nov 1995, Easton Trevor wrote:

> I have inertia reel belts in Miss Golightly. They are from a Volkwagen 
> Rabbit and the reels are fitted to the back of the bulkhead.

The PO of my Series II had started to fit seat belts before selling the
vehicle to me. I left the pieces in the vehicle and we never used them. 
The law here states that if the vehicle came out without seat belts then
you don't have to have them. 

On a trip to Mocambique, I stopped at one of the frequent road blocks and
was fined for not wearing my seat belt. The traffic official ignored my
protests but he didn't speak English and I couldn't speak Portuguese,
Shangaan or Macua. He wrote the fine out for 20 million Meticais which was
a bit over our budget. He was confused when I offered him the whole
vehicle to pay for the fine. These fines are spot fines and the official
confiscates your vehicle documents and passport until you have paid the
fine.  Fortuitously, a bystander could interpret and got the problem
sorted out. The fine came to R165 or $47. 

After paying the fine and getting my travel documents back we made a hasty
getaway. Just round the first corner we quickly removed all signs of seat
belts although the interpreter had said that all we needed to do at
subsequent road blocks was to produce the fine to avoid another. 

Donald

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From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Rover Car Part Wanted
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 95 07:43:00 EST

Does anyone out there have a spare B Cam Switch for a 1961 P4 100.
Lucas part # BJ5040561
This is needed by Dick Seaton of South Thomaston who has owned the P4 from 
new.
Please contact me or Ted Howard
Can someone on the Rover Car List please post this as well.

Thanks
Trevor Easton

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 07:36:13 -0500
From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall B. Thomas)
Subject: Re: RR: Lubricating the Speedometer Cable

>What kind of grease do people recommend?  I know that white grease picks up
>moisture.  It used to be used on helicopters, but no longer!
>...chris
>88RR

Chris,
I've had excellent success with a product called "Cable-Ease" which I
believe is a graphite modified moly.  It's surprisingly low in viscosity and
very messy to use.  It comes in a small blue tube and is available at most
major US parts shops.  Also works great on manual choke cables, bonnet/hood
release, bicycle handbrakes, etc.

I lubed my 88 Range Rover speedo cable 3 years ago with this and it's been
pretty smooth since.  
Cheers, Randall

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 07:36:29 -0500
From: rthomas@postoffice.ptd.net (Randall B. Thomas)
Subject: Re: What is this Window Channel Stuff

>> to survey the damage. Rust wasn't that bad, but all the furry stuff in the
>> side and lower channels was shot. What is this stuff? Can I recover the
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>propose. They're actually very cheap to replace, the real problem is where
>to find them.
I replaced mine a couple years ago with Rovers North, Vermont parts, however!:
Since I am also a Citroen SM owner, I am also on the 2CV/Citroen mailing
list and there has recently been a thread on this subject.  It seems that a
version of window channel is commonly available at marine supply stores
since many pleasure boats have sliding windows.  It's allegedly inexpensive
and, here's the good part, the base material is aluminium rather than steel!
I haven't had a chance yet to stop by a marine store to check it out and see
if it's the right size so, if anyone does, please let us know.
Cheers, Randall

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From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 95 13:12:23 GMT
Subject: One man bleed kits

Hi, in the past I have used one man bleed kits, with varying degrees of
success.

The first problem is pumping the pipe to the one way valve full of fluid.
Until this happens endless pumping of the pedal just moves a little fluid
up and down the same 3 inch (oops 75mm) piece of pipe.  This leads you to
open the nipple, stand on the pedal, close the nipple, release the pedal...
Sound familiar to anyone?  Yep you need 2 people.

The problem gets worse as the kits get older, I found that the valve stiffened
up to the point where is was more likely that a pipe join (there are some very
poor plastic ones in the kits I have had) would pop spraying you with fluid
than the brakes would actually be bled.

The last time I used one of these I cut the valve off and was left with a piece
of pipe, which I had much better results with.

I use easi-bleeds now (pressured from the spare tyre), which I find is much
easier.  I read the various posts about these a few months ago and I have never
had a problem.  Also as the brakes I had at the time had two bleed nipples per
caliper I needed 2 one man bleed kits which cost as much as the easi-bleed I
bought later.

Happy Land Rovering, Steve

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From: "jean gruneberg" <grunberg@iaccess.za>
Date:          Thu, 23 Nov 1995 14:18:47 +0200
Subject:       Airbags

Bob

In reply to your mail, firstly no offense taken :-),  I was just 
trying to provide some info into the debate.  *Personally* I feel 
that the force exerted by an expanding airbag (motherinlaw or other) 
may harm a small child, and that some circumspection with regard 
to the location of the child with or without a seat is called for.  

In fact on re-reading the article, some of the airbags were *side* bags, 
which is not even relevant to LR or this thread (I think, don't know 
what is fitted to a discovery, hope no side bags)

Regards

Jean
_________________________________

Jean Andre Gruneberg

Vector Control Lab.                ph  +27 31 282274
Durban City Health                 fax +27 31 3003030
P.O.Box 2443
4000 Durban                       
South Africa                   e-mail grunberg@iaccess.com

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Date:     Thu, 23 Nov 95 8:59:11 EST (1359Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Window Channels

To all,

I recently replaced the window channels in my Series III.  I went to the local 
glass company and had them order stainless steel channels with nylon runners.  
Has polypropelene (sp) 'hairs' to prevent window rattle.  The channels come in 
eight foot sections (sorry - don't know metric equivalent) and can be bought in
single and dual track versions.  Simple to cut to length with a fine tooth 
blade hacksaw.  Stuff is a little expensive - $100.00 usd for enough to do full
door top and bottom of the back windows - but its definitely worth it.  Just a 
side note, the glass slides too well now.  Get partial to full window closure 
when I 'accelerate' <g> into traffic.

I have to apologize - I forgot to get the name of the wholesaler.  If someone 
is interested, E-Mail me back and I'll get the name after the weekend.

Regards,

Larry

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 07:20:48 -0700 (MST)
From: Rob Bailey <baileyr@cuug.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: sorry !

Kurt:
  Don't feel too bad about believing this hoax. There is a computer 
engineer here at work that is still trying to convince me that you can 
get a virus from reading email, and he should know better... Can you 
imagine the computers that I would go through if infinite loops 
actually damaged the processor!!

Rob

>Hi out there, I never got such a lot of response to a mail, since my last
>virus alert. Sorry, as a net newbie I got it from a friend of mine in a
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>this. Mea culpa...:-(
>Kurt.... .. more interested in Land Rover than in computer technology :-)

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 10:56:32
From: DREAD@gnn.com ()
Subject: New type of gas guage

Recently, I discovered a new way to determine how much gas is in 
the tank of my '71 SIIa 88" LR (LIC# TKACHNC). When at a gas 
station while filling it up, I look on the ground and when a puddle 
of gas starts to appear, I know the tank is full! Rather 
inconvenient if one is near an open flame.

I assume that the seal between the fill tube and the tank is 
broken. However, I'm not sure how to  a) determine exactly where 
the crack is and  b) seal same. 

A friend mentioned something about a product called "Seal-All". I 
haven't yet gotten underneath and explored. I'm waiting till I've 
used up some gas (10 or 20 miles should do it!).

Any tips, hints would be appreciated.

Speaking of gas, is 9.7 miles/gallon what I should expect??? Now I 
know why most LRs I see have at least two cans of gas strapped to 
the back! Perhaps if we could figure a way to connect the exterior 
cans with the gas tank......

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From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 95 08:03:34 PST
Subject: Re: D90 4-Sale

Posting an ad from the latest BSROA newsletter for possible interest to anyone 
out there:

FOR SALE: 1994 NAS D90. AA Yellow. Hard top. Full soft top. 6-pt. cage. Air 
Cond. Rear seat. Tinted glass. 15K miles. Immaculate. Serviced at Land Rover 
Metro West. Call Lenny Kozlowski at 508-533-5815.

I have seen this vehicle. It is as new. 

cheerz
Jim- giving thanks today for the Wilks Brothers!
`67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (#457/500)
`95 D90 #1958

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 12:10:09 -0500
From: ecrover@midcoast.com (Mike Smith)
Subject: Al frames?!! EEEK!

David  Loews,
If you know enough about metal, MIG welding, plasma cutting, etc. to
attempt to build a L/R 109 frame out of Aluminum, you must also know that
this is the wrong material. We used to make 100'+ motor yacht hulls out of
aluminum, and a previous emailer is correct. The characteristics of
aluminum mean you must increase thickness to gain strength relative to
steel. The frame would be no lighter. Our yacht hulls would be very close
in weight no matter if they were steel or aluminum, due to the increases to
make it handle the same loads. Aluminum doeas not have the needed
properties to be a good Rover frame. If an incredibly cheap solution to L/R
frames did exist in such an easy format, the rest of us would be using it.
If you do build it, I would be really interested to know the overall
diameter of your front spring mounting hole, the one in the front horns,
after about 2000 miles. Most likely would increase from 9/16" to 2".

Trevor & David,
The shipping costs from the UK to the eastern US for our 109 frames, after
customs brokers etc, run close to $1000.. If you then had to ship to to
Alaska I must assume the cost would be at least another $1000. So if you
bought a Marsland at =A3900 x 1.6 exchange rate =3D $1440., plus delivery in
the UK, about =A340 =3D $64. The total now runs... $3504. Most US companies
will cut you a deal on a chassis, around $ 2500. plus shipping to Alaska.
This gives you about $ 3500. delivered to Alaska, without the hassle of
consolidated container shipping etc. We have had major damage occur to our
chassis in consolidated containers.
Isn't there a west coast company that can supply a chassis? Then the
shipping costs would be a lot less, wouldn't they?

General question...
I have noticed many mentions of ABP, does this mean Atl. Brit. Parts? If
so, for everyone suggesting an ABP chassis, what kind of luck have you had
with the Walker frames that they sell. I used one ONCE! Now we only use
Marsland. Did I just get a bad chassis? We had a bitch of a time making the
chassis fit. We even had to shim the gearbox mounts to make it come
anywhere near. All the Marslands and Arrow Coil chassis we have used (and
we use a lot!) have never needed this kind of re-work. I'd like to hear
other's experiences.

Mike Smith, East Coast Rover Co.
As a newcomer...I'd like to say how much I enjoy lro-digest. Hats off to
the people who run this. I would like to hear more about series rovers
though.

Mike Smith, East Coast Rover Co.

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 19:16:39 +0100
From: lopezba@atnet.at
Subject: Re: Children / Airbags

Bob wrote:
>Jean wrote:
>". . . the November 17 (vol 44/45)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 17 lines)]
>seats in the same period of time, would you conclude that car seats are
>dangerous?  I would hope not.      -Bob Virzi

Bob - sorry, but I think you missed the point.  The idea was not that
airbags are bad, but that the combination of a child in the front seat and=

an airbag was a larger risk than a child in the back seat and an airbag. 
So, if possible, keep children in the back seats, and in children=B4s seats=
 if
they are small. 

Peter Hirsch
SI 107in S/W
airbagless + childless

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Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 01:16:06 +0700 (GMT+0700)
From: Phairoj Phatsorpinyosakul <cnxpphts@cmu.chiangmai.ac.th>
Subject: Lots of Water!!!

Has anyone ever experienced water leak into the headlight compartment on 
'95 Disco?

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Date: Tue, 21 Nov 1995 23:15:33 -0800
From: cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chris Youngson)
Subject: LR related Email addresses

I don't know if these are common knowledge, but I'll post them 
anyway:

Range Rover Register: http://www.apricot.co.uk/reI3/directory/rrr/index.html

LRO Magazine: lro@maxcom.demon.co.uk

73, Chris

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chris Youngson           cyoungso@direct.ca      1965 Series IIA 109 3 Door
West Vancouver                                   Limestone (in pieces)
British Columbia         
Canada                   Amateur Radio: VE7CST
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 20:39:46 -0600 (CST)
From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: Lawrence in surgery.

Evenin' all.

MOT next week.

I thought i would sell Aurens and get another 109 petrol instead of starting
a major series of repairs. Trouble is that a) the EU commission wants to
introduce MOT inspection on diesels every year due to the pollution of
diesel engines that are out of adjustment and b) car tax on diesels are to
be increased next year. So there aren't that many petrol landies in the
classified these days.

Well, only one way to go. I drove the car to a DIY garage and my brother and
i fired up the grinder and welded on two outriggers holding the front of the
rear springs, one holding the bulkhead and a longitudinal nose. The
crossmember behind the gearbox is not available through my usual dealers who
are usually able to get anything, even at a reasonable price. It's avbl for
88" though. So my brother (who's a construction smith (fabricator?)) made a
new tunnel. Looks pretty good too. Also reconstructed the bottom two inches
of the breakfast plate. It was simply eaten away by rust. Patched a few
holes in the top and bottom doorpost as well.
Brakes were ovrhauled too. New drums, shoes, cylinders and some pipe.
Finally (i thought) i took Aurens to the high pressure cleaning cabin and
sprayed the engine (aha, so the block is green not black) and the underside
(inspectors are allergic to petro chemicals). At this time i was feeling
pretty bad. Infection in the throat, a banging headache and dizzy spells. So
i just wanted to get home real fast and lie down. When backing out from the
booth to collect our tools i smashed my left side mirror on the lift stand
and the tailgate on the wall. Oops. I already left my right side mirror on a
truck a year back. Both of them are (were) tractor type and they wiggle a
lot in the airstream. In fact it looks like a whole crowd of cars are going
to overtake you all at once. What a nice excuse this was to order a set of
Defender mirrors with hinges and arms. Got one on this afternoon. Great
mirrors. Bolts on directly on a series3. Also picked up a new (used) back
door from a club member. The accident was also a great excuse to get the
door replaced. The doorframe was so rotten that every time i opened the door
i was up to my knees in rust flakes.
The door also took off a rear light glass. Both of them were about to crack
in pieces anyway (winter and frost has arrived). So i replaced those as
well.

Apart from changing the back door and the right mirror i only need to
powerbleed the brakes and have the front wheels tracked. Then: the
inspection.

Advice: If anyone is considering the Defender mirrors (i can recommend
it) you should also get a set (4) of hinge screws and clip bolts. The clip
bolts will probably crack when you undo the hinge screws and sit on the end
of the screw or disappear in the doorpost. Or the bolt will simply drop off
and disappear as well. You will also need four M6x20 bolts to attach the
arms to the hinges.
The set is unoriginal and made by Britax i think. Cost is about $30.00 each
side in DK.

Finally, before you start snoring, a note on wiring. I'm not sure whether
Lucas can be blamed. In the engine compartment i have a wire hanging loose
with a spade plug at the end. It's not original. It cannot reach anything to
connect. It's hot (sparks on + on battery). All electric equipment works for
a change. It's going to ruin my weekend when i try to figure out were to
connect this SPOT/SCOT Lucasoid piece of electric engineering.

Thanks for your patience.
Throat's much better, headache's gone and i can't wait to get my hands dirty
again.

Regards
sv/aurens

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 16:14:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Al frames (Genuine LR Frames?)

I've noticed that Rovers North now lists a galvanized "Genuine Land Rover
chassis". It has lots of "extras" like removable tras x-member, aux fuel tank
outrigger, etc. Is this a Marsland which LR resells/endorses?
We'll going to need an 88" frame soon, and thus far I've heard only good
about Marsland, and very mixed opinions on Walker.

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Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 00:06:48 -0600 (CST)
From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: LR club in Poland

Someone (Roy?) talked about going to Poland. There is a fairly new LR club
in Poland. They have four Land Rovers. If somebody's going to Poland you
might want to meet with these guys. They are quite eager to meet foreigners.

   HOBO Land Rover PL Club
   78-500 Drawsko Pomorskie
   Zbrojewo 2
   Poland

You might also wish to try one of these phone numbers:

   +48 9613 4595 - english,
   +48 5848 7915 - english and german.

They can also arrange camping and tours, some with a guide. Some is free
some is reasonably priced. DL-RK member Jan Christensen went this summer and
is more or less planning a short trip next spring. I might join him. He also
welcomes others to join. He can be reached at +45 3142 4945.

Rgds
sv/aurens

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From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 21:57:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Good Times Virus alert !!!

This is an urban legend. There is no way such a virus could operate. 
The FCC does not warn about viruses.

>There is a computer virus that is being sent across the Internet. If
>you receive
>an e-mail message with the subject line "Good Times", DO NOT read the=
> message,
>DELETE it immediately.

[rest deleted]

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

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From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Thu, 23 Nov 1995 23:25:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Weird Wiring Combos 2.25l p wiring

Jeremy sez...
 
> This entry into the realm of Mr. Lucas reminds me somewhat of those 
> movie scenes where characters are trying to diffuse bombs by guessing 
> at different colored wires. 
-

That's about the best way anyone has put it this far...

Everything you have run into is pretty normal. Your best bet at this point,
other than replacing the harness, is to repair what is damaged (shorted,
melted, bare wires, etc) and then re-wrap the harness using black electrical
tape. Your harness is actually in four sections - Front section, Rear
section, Engine and Dimmer switch. The front section includes all the
dashboard wiring and is the most complex to repair. The rest are all fairly
simple. The first thing to do is use a cleaner like 409 or Fantastic and
degrease what you can. Then repair any damage. I didn't have any shorted
wires on my '65, but the cloth was pretty frayed, and I rewrapped everything
except what is behind the instrument panel. 

You may or may not find the wiring diagrams for the directional lights and
you probably won't find anything for the Kodiak heater. Remeber, these were
all options on the earlier Rovers.

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 725-1859                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078      -USA-   1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney")      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

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From: ericz@cloud9.net
Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 05:11:42 GMT
Subject: Misc. Tips and Some Questions

Greetings!  As a newcomer to the lro mailing list I am amazed at the interest in 
 the LR.  I have a 109" converted to a Stage I and my father has a '59 109" SW 
he bought new and used for a variety of expeditions in the 50s and 60s.  Where I 
am (Westchester Co., NY) there are more discos and rangies than I can count.  I 
stopped waving years ago!

A few comments ref queries over the past few days.  

Although many might find it sacreligous, an easy way to fit foward-facing rear 
seats to any LR (including D90) is to install a rear seat out of a Jeep (gasp!). 
 It fits nicely between the wheel wells and allows passengers a decent view out 
of the rear windows instead of always crouching down as with the inward-facing 
type.  You can get a brand new seat with brackets for less than $200 US or can 
find a used one in any junkyard (after the rest of the vehicle has rusted 
apart).  There is even a model that folds foward, allowing use of the load bay 
for all manner of paraphenelia.  Lap belts can also be fitted through the floor, 
so long as appropriate bracing is used, preferably to the chassis.

As far as running a 3.5 without a thermostat, don't bother.  The PO of my engine 
had removed the part and for a month or so I had cooling problems, the only time 
proper engine temp was achieved was when idling for over an hour!  At high 
speed, however, the temp rises dangerously as the hot water hasn't enough time 
to transfer heat to the radiator before it is re-heated in the block.  This is a 
common problem with antique car owners driving (or trying at least) at modern 
highway speeds.

Now a couple questions:

Will a 3.9 or later engine out of a rangie or disco, bolt to my early RR gearbox 
and bellhousing or is some machining nescessary?  I'm waiting to find a wrecked 
RR and my engine is a little tired.  Around here I hope to find one before its 
sold to one of those high priced import car wreckers...any ideas?

How about alternators...I'd like a litle more juice and would like something 
that required as little modification as possible to install.  Genuine would be 
nice but alas, my wallet can't take that kind of heat.  Perhaps something out of 
a domestic (US) car/truck?

Finally, would a brush bar/winch mount from a 90/110 fit the chassis rails of my 
vehicle?  I am loathe to use one for a series vehicle as I would have to do some 
surgery to the grille.

Any help on these matters would be great.  I really enjoy blowing Explorers off 
the line...it is possible even with a tired 3.5....and then towing them out 
off-road.

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Date: Fri, 24 Nov 1995 06:55:11 -0200
From: bcotton@lia.co.za (Brian Cotton)
Subject: 50TH ANNIVERSARY TOUR OF SOUTH AFRICA

The Land Rover Owners Club of South Africa is planning a six week tour of
South Africa
as part of the 50th birthday celebrations in April, 1998.

The tour will take place in April, and will cover +- 6 000 km in six weeks. 
The route will cover most of the places of interest in SA and will include a
fair bit of off-road driving. 

There are some members in our club who are willing to hire their spare
vehicles out to people from abroad who are keen to take part in the tour.
These people must however be members of a LR club in their country.
  
A full itinerary and other details are available on request.

Email me on : bcotton@lia.co.za

PS: I am planning a trip through Africa to the UK in 1997. I plan to take 4
months to get to London, January-April and return September-December. I
might stay in the UK for their 50th celebrations. 

Cheers
Brian Cotton
SIII LWB 2.5  Intercooled Turbo Diesel Safari Camper !
SIII SWB 2.25 Diesel (Branch Exhaust and big bore free-flow exhaust)
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