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Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 20:56:15 +1300
From: jawa@I-MAX.CO.NZ (jawa SmartCash)
Subject: radiators and springs

Just a couple of querys. 
While moving all the bits of my slll lwb onto a new chassis, I saw that
because the p.o. had fitted a 3.3 Holden 6 motor, he had needed to move the
whole of the grill forward about 4" to clear the  fan. He had also extended
the bonnet and chopped and mutilated the front cross member to fit the
radiator  down into it. I would rather not have to chop the new cross
member, and wonder if it is possable to remove the motor driven fan and
spacer, put a lower profile radiator sitting on top of the cross member, and
mount an electric fan in front of the radiator.
The other thing is that the rear springs have been immersed in salt water,
they have sort of delaminated a bit and are said to be completely wrecked.
my question is can I strip them down myself, de-rust / grease them and refit
them. The other idea I have been toying with is to use springs off another
vehicle of about the the same size and weight, a large sedan or van maybe,
they would need to be the same length and width.  I do not intend to carry
great weights in the back and was hoping for more flexability and a softer
ride. 

thanks in advance,

regards John (& lofty, 78 series lll)
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 16:32:31 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Re: radiators and springs

My first Landrover was a SIIA with a 186 Holden motor.  It had a Holden 
heavy duty radiator in place of the original, which sat on top of the 
front cross member.  I think the front panel may have been moved forward 
ever so slightly, but only 1/2 an inch or so.

It was also much cheaper to replace.

Cheers.

P.S. I replaced the motor driven fan with an electric one which is 
another alternative.

==========================================================
                               @@@@@@@@@@@@  
Tony Yates                      @@@@@@@@@@ 
Bureau of Meteorology             @@@@@@@  
Port Hedland                         @@@@
Western Australia                     @@@@
                                       @@@
ph:  (091) 401 350                   @@@
fax: (091) 401 100                  @@@
                                   @@@
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au            @@
                                      @
==========================================================

------------------------------

Subject: London LR Dealers
From: David.Tinley@bbc.co.uk (Dave Tinley)
Date: 15 Nov 95 08:51:34 EST

Several people wanted addresses of LR dealers in London, here are a few.

H.R.Owen, Melton Court, 27 Old Brompton Road, London.  SW7 3TD
0171-584 8451  or  0181-992 2299
Stratstone, 40 Berkeley Street, London.  W1X 6EN
0171-629 4404  fax 0171-499 0881
Hexagon, Holmes Road, Kentish Town, London.  NW5
0171-284 1777

Does anyone know a dealer selling good quality second hand parts?

David Tinley

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 09:15:39 +0000
From: Michael Turpin <ccaamet@ucl.ac.uk>
Subject: Seatbelts for D110 rear

Hi,

Has anyone got any experience of fitting seatbelts on all the rear seats (3
forward facing + 2 inward facing bench) in a 110 SW.  I know, from the parts
catalogue that strengthening plates etc are required.  The dealers that I
have spoken to told me that it's not a favorite job of their mechanics and,
surprisingly, they don't do many, although they would charge me >1000
pounds, so maybe it's not so surprising!  Anyone out there done this.

Any info/experience gratefully received.

Mike

____________________________________________________________________________

                        Michael Turpin
                        Network Operations Section,
                        Network Group,
                        Information Systems Division,
                        Kathleen Lonsdale Building,
                        University College London,
                        Gower Street,
                        WC1E 6BT.

E-Mail: m.turpin@ucl.ac.uk                            Tel: 0171-380-7828

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 10:20:40 GMT
From: mfarrall@well.ox.ac.uk (Martin Farrall)
Subject: 94 Discovery experience

Our 200 TDi 3dr Disco has covered about 40,000 miles in 28 months.  We
have had no major problems to date.  Minor niggles include:

1) intermittent squeaky steering wheel
2) clips holding plastic rain gutter trim come loose
3) discoloration on internal rubber window seals
4) dribbles of oils from various seals
5) faulty side window catch (fixed under warranty)

The Disco was bought to pull a horsebox (all in towing weight at least
2200 kg) mainly on the highway but regularly on tracks and in fields.
Fuel consumption is nearly 30 m.p.g. (Imperial measures).  We drove to
the Alps, traction on hardpacked and gritted snow covered roads was
fine with M/S tires.  We hired snow chains but did not need to use them
but have been painfully aware on other occasions that they are
necessary (even with 4WD) on fresh snow and gradients.  We are very
pleased with the vehicle and plan to keep it "for ever" as it shares
the basic design philosophy of LR.

I guess secondhand prices will take a pasting soon as the "generation"
of Discos bought as "fashion" accessories over the last couple of years
are sold on in the UK.  I wonder where they will all end up?

Martin

------------------------------

From: Stephen Thomas <THOMSE-U@m4-arts.bham.ac.uk>
Date:         15 Nov 95 11:27:19 GMT
Subject:      Fuel Sender and Gauges

TeriAnn
Yesterday you said about the incompatibility of SerII Gauges and
SerIII senders. I also found this problem and, coupled with a fried
ammeter and a duplicated main beam indicator, I dropped the old
cluster in favour of one from a SerIII. What will be the implications
of no voltage stabiliser for the temp and fuel gauges in the Ser III
cluster, and to make use of the charge light do I need an insulated
lamp holder with two contacts?

sheesh....Taylor lives on in all of us....
Steve

    /~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
   /  /-\ /--------------\ /-\  \
   |  | | |              | | |  |
   |  \-/ |              | \-/  |
   |______|______________|______|
   /~~~~~~|              |~~~~~~\
  |o|     |[]            |     |o|
  |O/     |              |     \O|
  ||      |              |      || Stephen Thomas
  ||______|______________|______|| 1964 IIa Diesel 'Andy'
   \_          |    |          _/  0121-452-1405
   |~\_________|_{}_|_________/~|  Thomse-u@m4-arts.bham.ac.uk
   |~_-_~|)              (|~_-_~|
   |~_-_~|                |~_-_~| ['Andy': except for the XCL's :)]
    ~---~                  ~---~

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Discovery
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 95 08:02:46 -0500
From: Gary Mitchelson <garym@cais.cais.com>

-- [ From: Gary Mitchelson * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

-------- REPLY, Original message follows --------

> As for the '96 vs.'95 models, I don't think there is much difference as
far as
> the vehicles are concerned. As for quality, does anyone know if BMW has a
> program to improve Land Rover quality, similar to what Ford has done to
Jaguar?

As far a BMW reliability all I know is that my wife's 1992 325i has had more
warranty work done in the same period of time than my 95 Discovery (once for
a loose hose clamp in 9000 miles). The BMW has been in several times for the
same problem, actually 2 different problems and they are still not resolved
to our satisfaction.

So be wary of wishing BMW quality on LR.

--
Gary Mitchelson                    
garym@racalrecord.com           
N3JPU

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 05:34:48 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Consumer Reports Ratings on 1995 Land Rover Discovery

That dearth of 5-speeds is pretty much the norm.  Every time I see a
Discovery up close I always check to see what kind of transmission it has.
I'd say it's about 5% total -- stripped down or fully loaded.

Just a guess, but might Frl be "Facing Rear Leather" seats?

Cheers!
John
'95 Discovery, 5spd

At 11:46 14.11.95 PST, Bennett Leeds wrote:
>> There are also two models now.  The SD and the SE7.  
>Actually, there are 3 models: SD, SE, and SE7.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 68 lines)]
>- Bennett
>Just say No to full sticker!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 05:34:31 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: LRNA recall notice found

No, but 155 isn't very many vehicles.  Maybe those of us on the List with
these Rovers got lucky.

Cheers!
John
'95 Discovery
San Francisco, California

At 12:01 14.11.95, Ross Leidy wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>My grandfather spotted this notice in Oct 95 Trailer Life magazine. I had
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)]
>Secant Technologies, Inc.
>95 D-90 #3032

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 05:35:08 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Consumer Reports Ratings on 1995 Land Rover Discovery

Thanks, Andrew!  I was in only to kick tires.  There isn't a lot of
difference between the '96s and '95s from what I can tell.  Electric seats,
I don't care about.  I'm happy with my '95.

Cheers!
John

At 16:21 14.11.95 PST, Andrew Smith wrote:
>> From LRO-Owner@uk.stratus.com Mon Nov 13 21:55:29 1995
>> Date: Mon, 13 Nov 1995 21:28:55 -0800
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
>Palo Alto CA USA
>'96 Disco

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 15 Nov 95  8:24:21 EST
Subject: Rover tip: Winch Control Cables found!

A company called Dorman here in the US makes a 6-foot, t-handled locking pull 
cable that's perfect for Bellview and similar type winches. They're long and 
strong enough to be run to the interior, and they lock by turning the T-handle 
clockwise (compresion chuck locking).

They're 16.88 each at my local auto-parts emporium...not bad at all.

    FYI...Alan

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 15 Nov 95  8:21:09 EST
Subject: Thread on PTO mounts?

Does anyone know what the threading is on the two holes in the front cover? I 
need a place to attach the ground bond from my winch to the engine and this 
seems as good a place as any, but I didn't have anything around the house that 
fit into it. Any info?

Also, anybody got any good sggestions as to a good replacement fuse block? This 
2-fuse rig is giving me nightmares....

      Alan

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 15 Nov 95  8:10:39 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Sender and Gauges

Re: Voltage stabiliser:

Get one and put it in. You really need to regulate the voltage to +10v or 
thereabouts, as the guages will read inaccurately otherwise. Also, you stand a 
good chance of burning up your senders, as the current increases with the 
voltage input.

It's a cheap fix - add it.

I know this from my old Volvo - don't ask why....<grin>
    Alan
    

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 05:35:12 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: 'Truck falls on Land Rover' - the picture!

Stefan Jacob wrote...

...just to inform you that in the Dec. issue of LRW on p.10, there's the
photo of the Deanston Bridge incident where a HGV (articulated 10-wheeler
truck) dropped  40 feet on top of a Defender 90 lying on its side. The
Land Rover isn't even deformed! Awesome...  The LR driver suffered only
minor injuries resulting from the fall (he too dropped from the bridge
before the truck followed him) whereas the truck driver was in serious
condition. (Does this make up for squeaking steering wheels, then?)

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>
------------------------
Squeaky steering wheel, maybe.  Bizarre behavior from electrical systems,
especially in something as simple as directionals, no.

As we say in my village, "One gotcha cancels 10 attaboys."

Cheers!
John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 05:34:35 -0800
From: "John C. White, III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: re: Discovery

Well, he's a salesman, and I thought I'd pass it on.  I did tell him I
already owned a Discovery and had no intention of trading it in.  Actually I
mis-typed myself.  The S.F. dealer can't seem to get more than 50 (not 15)
Discoveries a month.
Who cares?  Not I.

Cheers!
John

At 10:14 14.11.95 PST, rpeng@cadev6.intel.com wrote:
>>Found out something else interesting in the process.  Land Rover only
>>produces 45,000 Discoveries a year.  Of these 20,000 are kept for the U.K.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 25 lines)]
>Design Technology, Physical CAD
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 08:25:55 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: radiators and springs

John asks:
Snip
> The other thing is that the rear springs have been immersed in salt water,
> they have sort of delaminated a bit and are said to be completely wrecked.
> my question is can I strip them down myself, de-rust / grease them and refit
> them. 
snip

I tried that on my '67 109. The springs were rusty and splayed. I 
took them apart, class beaded them, painted them with Rustoleum and 
installed new main leaves. They were at best ok. If I had it to do 
over, I would just opt for new springs.
Greasing is considered by some to be a no-no since it tends to 
collect grit and cause premature wear. Graphite may be better.
I know of some who have greased their springs and wrapped them in 
long wide strips of rubber to keep the grit out. seems questionable to me, 
but I don't know what the long term effect was.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Rowe" <TROWE@AE.AGECON.WISC.EDU>
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 08:32:42 GMT -0600
Subject: Re: Thread on PTO mounts?

> Does anyone know what the threading is on the two holes in the front cover? I 
> need a place to attach the ground bond from my winch to the engine and this 
> seems as good a place as any, but I didn't have anything around the house that 
> fit into it. Any info?

??? I'm confused here Alan. Why do you need a ground for a PTO winch?
 
> Also, anybody got any good sggestions as to a good replacement fuse block? This 
> 2-fuse rig is giving me nightmares....

You can get aftermarket GM type fuse blocks at auto parts stores. 
Unfortunately, I don't have a mfg name. If you don't come up with 
anything, let me know. I have one in a parts box I may be able to 
locate.
Or you could go to a junk yard and get a suitable fuse block. Just be 
sure to get some of the attached harness, it's hard to rewire those 
blocks.

Tom Rowe
UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research    
608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578        
trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu                

 Four wheel drive allows you to get
 stuck in places even more inaccessible.

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Discovery
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 95 14:37:58 GMT

FWIW (notalot)I agree with Gary over wishing BMW quality
on Land Rover.Friend of mine(A salesperson,and thats *my*
PC lot for this century)thought she'd arrived when her
boss told her she could have a BM on the firm."Dont" I
ses."Black one" ses she."You'll fry in summer" ses I.
Would she listen? What do *you* think.
This heap was trouble from the word go.First it decided
it wanted servicing every 2,000 miles.She rang me."How
often" she said "d'you think a BM needs servicing?"
Restraining the temptation to say as soon as the ashtray
is full,I reckoned about 6,000 miles or upwards.But the
electronics said 2,000,and THAT'S WHAT SHE WAS DOING.
Unfortunately,she did about that mileage in a week!
Then,the brakes failed,at ten at night,in the middle
of Lincolnshire,while she was about eighty miles from
home.She drove it home.Got guts,that girl!Then the exhaust
fell off.Then the door handles.In fact,in the twelve months
before she got fed up with it,the thing was in for repair
at least once a month.Not only that,but apparently there
was a club of pissed off BMW owners at that dealers who
regularly swopped sob stories.
My brother in law had one.For six months."Never again"
quoth he.
'Nother bloke I know,great fan of the BM,bought another
new one and put it in his garage until the new plate letter
came round and he could use it.First morning,in he gets,
and the grab handle blanking plate fell off above the
drivers door.Shuts the door,the door trim fell off.
Starts car (after some effort) and drives away.Slowly.
Thing wouldnt pull at all from cold.After a while he
felt some pressure on his thighs.Looks down.The dashboard
had fallen off!Takes it straight back to the vendor,who 
opens the passenger door,and guess what? Yep,*that* door
trim fell off.Total period of ownership,one month.Just as
long as it took him to set up a deal for a new Volvo estate.
To be fair(why?) I also know of two people with *old* BMW's
like ten years and over,whos cars are still running faultlessly.
Basically,the things are well marketed,that's all.
BMW decided to get into the marine diesel lark."Gosh" thought
all these floating motorists"powered by BMW.Great!" Not great.
Like most BMW power plants,apparently,(which,also apparently,
included the FW190 fighter)the things were undercooled.Mind you,
its dedication of no mean order to undercool an *air cooled*
engine,but I'm told they managed it,perhaps they were on our
side after all.Boats were seizing up all over the place.
Wiped thousands off the value.BMW decided,I'm told,to sell
the marine division,only to find their reputation preceded
them.The rumour was they couldnt *give* it away.
It was also reported in a paper that BMW had spent millions
on trying to develop their own 4X4.Wothout success.So they
bought Land Rover instead.Now it seems they are telling that
company all about how to build a 4X4!
Incidentally,the young lady mentioned previously has had the
opportunity on many occasions to drive a Disco.She wont!She's
actually *frightened* of them!Takes all sorts doesnt it?
Cheers
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 07:47:54 -0700
From: David Dodell <david@dental.stat.com>
Subject: Models of LR Discovery?

Has anyone ever seen a model of a Land Rover Discovery?

David
---
Internet : david@dental.stat.com
WWW   : http://www.stat.com/~david
Telephone: +1-602-860-1121
FAX      : +1-602-451-1165

------------------------------

Date: 15 Nov 95 06:48:27 PST
From: Paul.Smail@Washcoll.EDU (Paul Smail)
Subject: Television Appearances

Rovers on the tube!

Discovery on an Amoco commercial...

and who can avoid seeing the Pet Detective 2 trailers in which Ace Ventura
tests the mettle of a SWB IIa?

There is also a cross-over into a Subway commercial in which the Rover takes a
parking place and obstinately holds its ground.

Impressive air time.

all the best,
Paul

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 09:53:47 -0500
From: Martin_Eglitis@nih.gov (Martin Eglitis)
Subject: Re: 94 Discovery Experience

Alright, I've bee reading the other postings and thought I would weigh in
with mine.

I have one of the last '94s sold, so it only has 21k miles on it. Let me
start by saying that I think that it is a GREAT car. Utterly trouble-free,
no. But really not much different from the quality one sees in most
non-Japanese cars.

The bad stuff:
1) Arrived from the boat with a faulty rear sunroof (no mocking, series
owners!). Certainly didn't affect its off-raod performance, but I did lose
4 days use until the dealer finally decided to replace the whole thing. My
biggest complaint with that one was that LRNA seemed unprepared parts-wise
and couldn't properly advise the service dept as to how to proceed.

2) At 13.4k miles, replaced power-steering box, which had begun leaking
fairly prodigously. That repair (again under warranty) went very smoothly,
car out of service 8 hr. Did LRNA know this repair was going to be
necessary?

3) Finally, just now, with the advent of the cold weather, am the proud
owner of a moaning steering column. Is going into the shop tomorrow, and
expect a simple fix.

That said, I must say the dealer's service department has been excellent,
providing me with a replacement car while waiting for the roof parts
(although it was an Audi). And, more importantly, the vehicle delivers
exactly what I expected transport-wise. I've driven the beaches of the
Outer Banks of NC without incident, and have taken it into some pretty
challenging (for me) off road terrain. When this rooky off-roader managed
to dive into axle-deep Western Maryland muck, she pulled me out without
hesitation, then carried me and my SIX passengers up a grade that had those
in back sure we would tip. The consensus of the testers on that occasion
was that we hadn't found a proper challenge for the car.

As for other issues, I have no complaints about acceleration (certainly for
such a big truck) and it is one of the more pleasant cruisers at 85 mph
that I've driven (usually for stretches of 3-400 miles, that's when the
6-disc CD really is appreciated). And braking? Let's just say the ABS kept
me out of a pretty bad situation that sent the cab in front of me into the
guard rail.

Summary- after one year, I can only look forward eagerly to the next 10 yr,
if this how she will behave. Would I recommend one to a friend?
Unhesitatingly, certainly over one of those under-powered off-road wanabes
from Japan. Remember, Isuzu was Honda's second choice, BMW took LR away
from them. And we all know Honda's reliability reputation.

Sorry for taking up so much band width, but I hope these observations are
helpful.

Martin Eglitis
'94 Beluga Black Discovery

        ****************************************************************
        |    Martin Eglitis                    Lab of Cell Biology     |
        |    Phone: (301) 402-1641             NIMH, Bldg. 36 Rm. 2D10 |
        |    FAX:   (301) 480-2437             36 Convent Dr  MSC 4068 |
        |    sveiks@codon.nih.gov              Bethesda, MD 20892-4068 |
        **************** Wherever you go, there you are ****************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 10:04:24 -0500
From: kelliott@intranet.on.ca (keith Elliott)
Subject: Subway Commercial

Hi All...

        I was really sickened last night when I saw the new commercial from
Subway resturants. They showed a clip from the new Ace Ventura movie where
he is trashing a Land Rover, but that is not the worse part. The next scene
shows the same beat-up Rover stopped in front of a subway res. and Buckey
and Vinnie
park behind it and then give the Rover a couple of kicks because it stole
their parking spot!!!
        Boy do I wish that Rover could put the boots to Buckey and Vinnie!!!
Of course another way of looking
at it is that the Rover took a beeting and still got its' driver to the
Subway...

TTYL
Keith   ('61 Series II 88")
--
Registered ICC User
INTRANET Technologies Inc.
Check out  http://www.intranet.on.ca/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 11:16:58 -0500 (EST)
From: Kurt Horton <khorton@deming.mdc.com>
Subject: LRO lost episode.

A while back someone was asking about Turn Signals for SIII but this mail
got lost along the way, so I thought I would just re-send it in case it
will help anyone.  His question was: How do you fix the Turn signal "return
thingy"?

My SIII has turn signals w/ the return thingy.  And in the past they have
gotten stiff / hard to return.  If I changed lanes on a cold morning I
couldn't turn the signal off without pusshing the lever so hard that I
thought that I might break it.  Well once I did break it on a cold morning.
 Since then I have discoverded Quite by accident that the secret to keeping
your 'signal return thingies' working well is to lubricate them and the cam
they ride on.  Two methods may be employed to do this.  

Method ONE (the way I found out about the positive effects of signal
lubricant) is to drive up a steep rock until you can go no steeper without
falling back.  If you sit there waitting for friends to hook up the winch
oil from your steering box will slowly dribble DOWN your steering column
drip in your lap and in the process lube your signal mechanism.  Or option
TWO just take your column cover off and drip a few drops of 30W on the
mechanism's cam.  The signal will then work like a charm in all weather. 
And you will not break those 'signal thingies'.

To repair your signal 'thingy'.  you may do so if the finger breaks in a
thick enough section near the base as mine did.  I just cleaned it up
"super glued" it together and then drilled a #40 hole through the two
pieces and pinned it for added strength with the steel shaft of that same
drill bit.  Yours may be different depending on where it breaks.  But if
you keep them oilled they probably won't break.

Kurt Horton.
<khorton@deming.mdc.com>
posted 13:50 PST 11/6/95
end

Thanks,

KPH
x2120

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 08:42:52 -0800
From: cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us (Christopher Boese)
Subject: Discovery quality vs. Jeep

It's not just the Discovery that has problems. The famed Jeep, remember, has
the worst reliability record of any 4WD. This is even supported by Consumer
Reports. Of course, they went ahead and recommended the Grand Cherokee and
the Pathfinder (drives *just like a car*) anyway. The Grand Cherokee they
tested unlocked itself constantly and had various other defects.

I talked with a friend last night who owns a Jeep Cherokee. He paid $25000
for it, and this is just a standard, not "Grand" model. For this, he got
leaks from the oil pan, the transfer case, the front differential, and the
rear differential. All at almost the same time. The cruise control switch
has failed three times. The front seats squeaked and rattled from new, and
the thing is filling with rattles as it ages (28000 miles by now.)

I'm sure that if I took a Cherokee up some of the terrain I've inflicted on
my Discovery, it would break in half.

Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office
'95 beluga black Discovery

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 09:10:06 -0800
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Isuzu/Landie contest

> In short, the challenge was to get people with different vehicles together 
> in an environment which fostered curiosity about (and appreciation for) how 
> different vehicles work, respect for other's vehicular taste and driving 
> ability, and to leave the "my truck's better'n yours" attitude to others.  
> The result was that everyone had a good time.  

Wow!  A lesson we LRO's would be well advised to put to use even just amongst 
ourselves!  This guy's a good guy.  I'd go with him anytime!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 11:18:22 -0800
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Sender and Gauges

In message <199511151128.GAA05402@butler.uk.stratus.com> Stephen Thomas writes:
;
> TeriAnn
; I dropped the old
> cluster in favour of one from a SerIII. What will be the implications
; of no voltage stabiliser for the temp and fuel gauges in the Ser III
> cluster,
;
I only have a series III speedomotor so I don't know the specs for the rest of 
the guages.  Lucas/Smith jager guages were usually designed for use with a 
voltage stabilizers.  I got one from a MG to put on my IIA.
;
 and to make use of the charge light do I need an insulated
> lamp holder with two contacts?
;
??? No one sells the ser III lanmpholders for the guage lights seperatly.  You 
need to find a dead series III and snip the lampholders off the wiring harness.
> sheesh....Taylor lives on in all of us....
> Steve

;
TeriAnn
Accused land Rover asbuser for not having 100% stock Land Rover..Guilty as 
charged

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 12:34:08 -0700 (MST)
From: beesley@primenet.com (Brad Beesley)
Subject: Rovers in the Movies

I saw a rover in a movie called "Sands of the Kalahari" during a period of
insomnia. The movie is about some folks stranded in the desert when their
plane went down. They are forced to fend for themselves until they get
rescued. They send one poor chap to get help. He walks hundreds of miles
across the desert and finally makes it to the ocean. Little did he know
that he was traveling across diamond territory. He is soon spotted by some
diamond mine guards (who drove the rover) and is beaten sensless because
they think he was spying on their mining operation. Not a terrible movie,
it kept me up until 4 AM.

Not sure of the make and model, but it was a long truck with a soft top,
maybe a SeriesIIA?

Brad

___________________________________________________________________
                      beesley@primenet.com

                   Seven Thorns of the Crown
               http://www.primenet.com/~beesley/
___________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: jgoldman@acs.bu.edu
Subject: Looking for a rover... WAS:Attention Jim Dolan
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 14:25:27 -0500 (EST)

> Jim,
> Jeff Goldman, from Boston is looking for a Land rover SIIA, bad frame, do you
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Cheers
> Mark

	To qualify that further (thanks for the intro Mark!), I'm looking for
anyone in the general vicinity, say 2 to 3 hours from Boston, who wants to
part with a complete vehicle (88") that needs a frame-over. Preferably,
anything post '67 (but, that's getting picky, I know).
	Ideally, I'd like to get a runner that would last, on-road, until
March or April when I, hopefully, can go ahead with a shipment of parts from
the UK (frame, and other assorted bits and pieces, etc). Plus, it would nice
to start a real restoration in the spring, as opposed to starting in on winter.
	So, if anyone has, or knows, of such a beast, please feel free to
contact me. Thanks...

								Jeff Goldman

E-Mail: jgoldman@acs.bu.edu
Tel: 617-244-5223

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 15:18:16 -0500 (EST)
From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" <swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu>
Subject: Wanted to Buy:  LWB

Howdy all,
just wanted to put a probe out as Moose get finished up.  After he is 
done, I am going to start looking for a II/IIa 109 in a pickup 
configuration, preferably with a stout (1ton?) rearend (salisbury 
optional).  Anyone have any leads on one?  I think I have had enough fun 
rebuilding for now, so it should be in daily-driver condition (doesn't 
have to be pretty, just strong).  Any leads, please e-mail me directly 
(swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu)
thnx in advance, Happy Roverin'
steve

	_________________________________
	|_______|_______|_______|_______|	"Moose"
	|   ____________    |	   |	\\	'73 III 88"
	|  /  	  |	\   |  	   |	 \\      ________
     	|  |	  |	|   |	   |	  \\    |        |
	|  \______|_____/   |______|_______\\___|________|__
	|___________________|_______________|---------------\
	|  []    []    []   |		    | 0		    |)
	|                   |--]	    |               |		
       _|    /	 OOOOO      |		    |      OOOOO    |__
      |_|____I OO o o OO ___|_______________|___ OO o o OO ____|
	   0  OO o 0 o OO			OO o 0 o OO
	       OO  o  OO     "Tread Lightly"     OO  o  OO
              	 OOOOO				   OOOOO
       		           Florida Rover Canvas
	Steve Swiger   
	swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu
	(813) 980-1013
	(813) 253-0905 (Work)

------------------------------

From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh_Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date:          Thu, 16 Nov 1995 09:38:35 +1300
Subject:       Re: radiators and springs

: From:          jawa@i-max.co.nz (jawa SmartCash)
: While moving all the bits of my slll lwb onto a new chassis, I saw that
: because the p.o. had fitted a 3.3 Holden 6 motor, he had needed to move the
: whole of the grill forward about 4" to clear the  fan. He had also extended
: the bonnet and chopped and mutilated the front cross member to fit the
: radiator  down into it.

: I would rather not have to chop the new cross
: member, and wonder if it is possable to remove the motor driven fan and
: spacer, put a lower profile radiator sitting on top of the cross member, and
: mount an electric fan in front of the radiator.

Is the 3.3 longer than the 179/186?  When my PO fitted a 179 to the 
IIa he chopped the grille (breakfast) so that the old radiator sits further
forwards, but the grille itself mounts to the crossmember in the original
location. No bonnet mods required other than removing the latch mech.
The radiator is from the original landrover as far as I can tell.  It 
seems to have been up to the job for at least 10 years, but just 
recently has started to overheat.  One local radiator shop suggested
recoring it with a more efficient 4 channel core rather than dicking
around trying to squeeze in a different radiator around the steering
relay etc, so I will probably do that soon (next pay check I guess),
and it may be an option for you also.

With my setup there isn't much clearance between the fan and the rad.
When I fitted a drain plug I didn't check the clearance so of course as 
soon as I started her up the blades chopped the plug off.  Not much
clearance in the IIa for replacing the left headlight either, but that's not a 
problem on a sIII.  I don't know if I could squeeze in an electric 
fan. I guess that by removing the current fan the radiator could be moved
back closer to original location and then there's a better chance of 
fitting an electic fan in front of the radiator.  You'd want to 
measure all that quite carefully before jumping in.  But in any case,
if you're going to use the modified bonnet and fit the grill assembly
further forwards to match then you should have clearance for africa.
Front mounted electric fans seem to be quite popular.

Cheers,
Hugh
-- 
Hugh Grierson   hugh_grierson@trimble.co.nz  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 95 12:47:50 PST
From: "BREAKFIELD ERNEST" <breakfield.ernest@smtpgateway.centigram.com>
Subject: Re: in poor defense; Discovery quality vs. Jeep

     
     hello, unintentional campers!
        after reading the message that started this thread, i felt i'd  
     share with you my story, and that of my (Gasp! inserted here) Jeep, if 
     you will...
     
        after wanting to off-road for years, i finally traded in the old 
     relatively trusty and unarguably stylish Quattro ski-mobile and the 
     trusty old econo-hatchback (only *slightly* tweaked for auto-crossing. 
     honest!). lusting after the Defender 90, i couldn't justify the coin 
     required for what was going to be my only (motor) vehicle when i 
     wasn't going to be able to throw my non-motorized toys in the back or 
     on the roof-rack while i was in the back. the Range Rovers were out of 
     the question for me for anything that i was planning to use seriously 
     off-road!) i was concerned about the likelihood of finding the right 
     parts if/when i were to break something miles from pavement somewhere 
     outside of West Jesus, Nevada, or someone to help me work on it when 
     out of cel-modem and ham radio range!
        i ended up spec'ing out a '94 Jeep Cherokee Sport, hoping that 
     after building them in the same factory for over a dozen years, they 
     might know how to do it by now! (i couldn't picture climbing back into 
     a Grand Cherokee with mud on me; too yuppie-ized looking! and worth 
     another $10K US? maybe some other day, mate!) reading the ratings 
     available from the various magazines and agencies, my own informal 
     survey of owners didn't seem to support the kind of unreliability 
     ratings i was reading about. i decided to take a chance on my first 
     american car in years, and hoped i'd get one that worked.
        careful to take advantage of the information available, and using a 
     little time to shop around the Bay Area dealers within the range i was 
     willing to travel (for warranty work, service, etc), i was able to 
     spec a 4 liter, 4 door automatic with the off-road package, 4-wheel 
     ABS, A/C, and a few other options i deemed necessary for under $21K 
     US. (no power doors, remote entry door lock foo-foo stuff, no center 
     console or leather seats; simple, but equipped with the idea of real 
     life in the field in mind.)
        paying CLOSE attention to my vehicle, and having the luxury of 
     still owning another vehicle for the initial months, i was able to 
     attend to every problem i discovered for the first several months, and 
     came to the conclusion that although the vehicle is assembled poorly, 
     it isn't that bad an initial design. (if you stay on top of it, 
     English-style, you can keep it working). i've used it off road 
     extensively in areas like the Anza-Borrego Desert, Death Valley, 
     National Forest and BLM lands outside the Lake Tahoe area, Southern 
     Nevada deserts and mountains, Northern California logging roads and 
     more, and found it capable of performing MORE than reasonable tasks. 
     granted, this IS my first "fou' wheela'", so i'm lacking the years of 
     experience with which to judge that a more seasoned veteran off-roader 
     might have, but i'm trying to share here my perceptions from my 
     viewpoint. i had high expectations, and made the effort to learn what 
     i could from those who'd gone before me; taking off-road safety 
     clinics, Jeep Jamborees, etc, so that i could benefit from their 
     experience, and not have to repeat their mistakes with my new vehicle!
        i've got over 40k on the odo now at about 1.5 years, and have quit 
     compiling the list of things wrong with the same amount of 
     faithfulness i originally started with; maybe after having enough 
     things go wrong i've gained a higher tolerance for things 
     'not-as-they-should-be', or i'm just tired of trying to keep up, but 
     the list isn't as up-to-date as it might be. what follows is a partial 
     list:
     
     - Pull (Tires? Alignment shim?)
        upon delivery, the vehicle pulled to the left under sever braking. 
     this was resolved by (i'm told) a "shim" in the front end somewhere. 
     at every tire rotation, a slighter pull would move around the car; the 
     original tires (Goodyear Wrangler Radials, 225/75/15.) had to be 
     'juggled' constantly to keep it tracking straight. buying 3 more to 
     use with the virgin spare, and having experienced another set of the 
     same, the best advice i can give anyone considering these tires is 
     DON'T.
     
     - Horn
        failed twice. replace the first time without argument under 
     warranty; the second time refused due to the mechanic noting that it 
     was "packed with mud".
     
     - A/C Howl
        a banshees howl that began when the compressor kicked in; 3 
     separate attempts to resolve this; the first 2 replacing parts, the 
     last by reducing the pressure between the high and low pressure side 
     (effectively reducing the efficiency of the entire A/C system, but 
     eliminating the howl!) semi-repaired under warranty.
     
     - A/C Leak
        near the refill valve, fast enough to blister the paint near the 
     valve. repaired under warranty.
     
     - Transmission leak (3 Times)
        twice due to something common to all the leaks i've had in the 
     drivetrain, seemingly due to the fact the gaskets aren't used; instead 
     the assembly is done with a RTV-like goop that almost works. another 
     time only when under heavy throttle, (who, me? i said i used it, 
     didn't i?) throwing fluid up to land all over the rear end. repaired 
     under warranty.
     
     - Front Differential leak (2 Times)
        see above.
     
     - Headlight `Flasher' (fuse)
        ok, so i put some motorcycle H4's in with a slightly higher current 
     draw; my fault.
     
     - Paint; thin spots, foaming
        electrostatic painting on a fiberglass hatch door? anybody else see 
     a problem with this? aside from this, thin spots on drip rails, 
     bubble, etc.
     
     - Door handle pulling off, inside Right Front (2 Times)
        i'm no he-man, but i had the door handle pull off in my hand while 
     playing passenger in a road trip. repaired under warranty, only to 
     have it repeat.
     
     - Brake Line rattle (Brake Line routed against firewall)
        dumb assembly; the damn thing rattled (more than usual!) when the 
     door were closed, and at certain idle conditions.
     
     - Exhaust leak (Loose bracket)
        unforgivable! the exhaust may well have fallen off, if i wasn't 
     poisoned first, had i not traced down what i thought sounded like an 
     air leak.
     
     - Fog Light leak
        the stock lamps, (which i bought only so i wouldn't have to wire 
     the switch when i put in REAL lights) leak, as well as feeble.
     
     - Loose Battery Bracket
        like, the battery falling over when i gave it a wiggle the day i 
     drove it home? not clamped down AT ALL.
     
     - Stereo Volume/Balance knob Dirty/Noisy
        the switch in the factory cassette deck isn't fit for Hasbro! 
     requiring a liberal dose of contact cleaner regularly since new. not 
     such an issue these days as it seems the antennae cable is falling off 
     of the back of the stereo intermittently rendering me radioless 
     anyway.
     
     - Rear "Locking" Differential not locking! (One rear wheel will spin 
     while the other doesn't)
        a special order item, the Trac-Loc Rear dif, which i'm told may be 
     what was also referred to as a Detroit Locker (and is really a 
     ratcheting dif, not truly locking!), doesn't lock (or ratchet!). a 
     couple of situations have placed me with contact points only at 
     diagonal wheels, i don't always get the lockup of the rear i'd expect.
     
     - Rear Interior light switch inoperative
        another intermittent thing, never duplicated my the dealer, of 
     course.
     
     - Oil leaking onto motor on long uphill climbs (near rear of motor)
        not an apparent problem yet, but not comforting either!
     
     - Oil Pressure Gauge erratic
        possibly a problem with the sender unit (i hope!), the gauge needle 
     swings (intermittently, of course,) right up to the high end of the 
     dial. sometimes remedied, by a frisky romp on the throttle (enough to 
     cause downshift), especially frustrating because this is a gauge i 
     hope to have faith in!
     
     while i'm at it, please let me address the attached items clipped from 
     Christopher Boeses message:
     
     I talked with a friend last night who owns a Jeep Cherokee. He paid 
     $25000 for it, and this is just a standard, not "Grand" model.
        i prefer to think of mine as the "original" version! ;-)
     
     He paid $25000 for it
        unless he wanted a lot of the extra stuff, i think he paid too much!
     
     The cruise control switch has failed three times.
        hmm, haven't lost that yet! don't mention that within earshot of the 
     parking lot, please!
     
     The front seats squeaked and rattled from new
        no problem with my (Jeeps) seats.
        Christopher: did he get the 2 door or 4-door? i think the seats would be 
     different, although i somehow suspect they are the same kind of 
     uncomfortable.
     
     the thing is filling with rattles as it ages
        i found a lot of rattles due to things not being tight, and have managed 
     to keep mine pretty quiet in spite of the off-roading. encourage him to 
     chase the noises down, and tighten things up (carefully!)
     
     (28000 miles by now.)
        cheez, mine didn't feel like it was broken in 'til then!
     
     I'm sure that if I took a Cherokee up some of the terrain I've inflicted on 
     my Discovery, it would break in half.
        i don't know about this; i think if the Jeep didn't unbolt itself, it 
     would probably do pretty well (driven properly!) of course, anything can be 
     driven poorly; i've even cleaned sections in the Hollister Hills OHVRA's 
     "Frametwister" i've seen people hang Range Rovers on! (read: it's not just 
     the VEHICLE that gets you stuck, or through.)
        hope you all enjoy this/ find it useful. comments welcome!
     
                                                                 cheers for now!
                   (i don't care what you're trying to drive; if you're stuck 
     i'll probably pull you out; not just wave!)
     
                                                                        e

------------------------------

Date: 15 Nov 95 15:50:09 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: land rover recall re 1995 rangies/discos/defenders

     I checked in with Land Rover North America on the recall notice posted 
     by Ross Leidy.
     
     There is a dealer service advisory (not a recall or internet rumour) 
     either check with the dealer or call 800 637 6837 to LRNA direct but 
     make sure that you have your vin number handy as they need the last 6 
     digits. Dealers are meant to identify the vehicles and do the work 
     automatically when the vehicles are in for service.
     
     and yes I checked, mine (a 95 built in November 94) is not affected.
     Rats,I like visiting the dealer makes me feel like a kid in a candy 
     store.  
     
     regards 
     chris browne (brit in Boston)
     95 portafino red discovery
      

------------------------------

From: ASFCO@aol.com
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 16:01:57 -0500
Subject: Att: Massachusetts

All  ................. I was in New Hampshire on Sunday and talked with a
woman who was using a relatives 109 to go antique shopping.. Was wondering if
this 109 belongs to anyone who subscribes to the digest...The Rover had Mass.
Tags.   Thanks,  Steve  WA2GMC  72 slll 88

------------------------------

From: Richard Strysniewicz <richard@ducati.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 20:58:58 BST
Subject: Re: Luminition

> I have the original pamphlet that must have come with the Lumenition when
> one of the PO's installed it on my 88. It lists the manufacturer as
> Lumenition, a division of Autocar Equipment Ltd., 77-85 Newington Causeway,
> London SE1 6BJ. No phone, but perhaps one of our right-side-of-the-pond
> brethren could tell you if the company is still in business. 

They are still in business, I had to get a replacement part for my Luminition
a few months back.  If anyone is interested I can dig up the phone number and
post it.  Let me know.

Richard Strysniewicz                              DoD 1193   AMA 661768
Petersfield, UK                                   1991 907ie Bellarossa
                                                  1979 SIII SWB Jessie

------------------------------

Subject: back surfing the net from 'caloccia@OpenMarket.com'
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 18:37:35 -0500
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@OpenMarket.com>

Hi, 
	I arrived in Boston last Thursday and spent the weekend in Worcester
but am now staying in the Holiday Inn at Government Center (ugh !). 

	If you hear of any apartments available in the Cambridge/Boston area,
please let me know.

	And am at the moment trying to close a deal on a '90 RR County.

	Cheers,
	-Bill

email	caloccia@OpenMarket.com

phone	617.374.6579  (work, direct)

mobile	now active

home	still looking for one

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 07:28:48 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Re: Seatbelts for D110 rear

On Wed, 15 Nov 1995, Michael Turpin wrote:

  Has anyone got any experience of fitting seatbelts on all the rear seats (3
  forward facing + 2 inward facing bench) in a 110 SW.  I know, from the 
parts
  catalogue that strengthening plates etc are required.  The dealers that I
  have spoken to told me that it's not a favorite job of their mechanics and,
  surprisingly, they don't do many, although they would charge me >1000
  pounds, so maybe it's not so surprising!  Anyone out there done this.

My 110 CSW has factory fitted seatbelts for all seats. (seatbelts have 
been compulsory in Oz for front and rear seats since the early 70s).

The rear forward facing bench has inertia reels on each side attached 
high up on the C-pillar (behind plastic trim), with a lap belt in the 
middle. Proper floor strongpoints are built into the floor behind the 
seat for the stalks.  The rear side facing seats have lap belts which are 
attached to steel plates (not very big) which are in turn *rivetted* to 
the wheel boxes.  These ones don't look particularly strong but must have 
passed some sort of design rule to be installed.  They do make quite good 
tie down points though :-)

A kilopound seems a bit steep, I had seatbelts professionally fitted to 
my old IIA for about $300 (150 pounds), which included the belts.

Cheers.

==========================================================
                               @@@@@@@@@@@@  
Tony Yates                      @@@@@@@@@@ 
Bureau of Meteorology             @@@@@@@  
Port Hedland                         @@@@
Western Australia                     @@@@
                                       @@@
ph:  (091) 401 350                   @@@
fax: (091) 401 100                  @@@
                                   @@@
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au            @@
                                      @
==========================================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 17:33:20 -0800
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: How to SPOT Hubs (long)

Well in my last few idle minutes at work I thought I'd relay another 
SPOT for all you boys and girls in Land Rover Land.  Do not, I repeat 
do not follow these instructions.

Remember don't try this at home (can you say "moron" .. that's right I 
knew you could ... uhm hhmmm). 

SPOT #42: Adjustment of Rear Hub Bearings, Series Land Rover

Remove the rear hub flange and using a suitable makeshift instrument, 
preferably a cold chisel, drive the two hub nuts, lock washer and 
distance washer from the hub.  You might find it a bit tricky to work 
the washers out; to assist lever from behind dragging the point of the 
chisel (or screwdriver) with a bit of force along the hub shaft 
threads.  [You have wisely decided to purchase a cold chisel rather 
than a socket of the appropriate dimensions for the hub since the cold 
chisel is more versatile a tool for other jobs on your LR.]  The tip of 
the chisel (or if you're really cheap, screwdriver) will jam in the 
threads preventing the washer from falling back into place.  Don't 
worry about the threads; you've got plans.  The first nut is also 
likely to be tight.  This is a problem since it prevents access to the 
second nut.  Hammer the cold chisel about 1mm into the nut; this will 
make extraction easier.  Extraction can also be eased by hammering 
sufficiently at the edge of the nut to generate jagged spurs that can 
in turn be levered on.  You will notice that the inner nut is looser 
than the outer which seems odd since the outer has to come off first.  
This can be adjusted as described below.

When you've removed the nuts and washers, just drop the extracted 
pieces on the ground; their order is irrelevant.  You have a superior 
arrangement described below.

Working in the hub is a messy process because of the presence of 
grease.  To avoid such a mess in the future remove as much of the 
grease as you can.  There's a bit of 90wt coming through the hub seal 
which should more than make up for the lower quantity of the less 
mobile, and therefore poorer lubricating grease.  Save the extracted 
grease! (see below).

In the process of removing all the grease and removing the hub, the hub 
bearing is now free.  You will note that it falls free with disturbing 
ease.  Properly adjusted reassembly of the hub can cure this and get 
you better performance.

Having removed the offending and useless grease from the hub to the 
best of you ability you may now reassembly the hub in the anticipation 
that it will turn more readily thus improving your mileage.

A cure to the loose nature of the bearing following the removal of 
grease may be affected by placing the previously removed lockwasher 
over the bearing BEFORE the distance washer and the nuts.  Lightly tap 
the now somewhat mutilated washer into the bearing with your chisel to 
help seat it.  Replace the first nut and vigorously drive the nut onto 
the hub with chisel.  If possible use previously generated scars for 
leverage but generate new ones as needed.  Because the lock washer has 
been used to better seat the bearing you can assist in retaining the 
first nut in its tight position by deforming the threads immediately 
above it with the chisel (see how much better this is than a socket :) 
).  This has the advantage that the second nut, when placed loosely on 
the hub above the first will sufficiently strip these deformed threads 
to seriously hinder migration of the inner nut in effect self locking 
it without the now superfluous lock washer.

You may now just replace the other components as before and you're 
almost done except for one bonus:

Remember that grease you saved?  Transfer it to the front swivel pin 
housings - these are prone to leaking and the "immobile" grease will 
solve this problem.  Nothing like killing two birds with one stone!

But then again, maybe not :)

Cheers,

Jeremy

Still offering a home to abused Land Rovers.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 11:56:25 +0930
From: philr@ozemail.com.au (Phil Rofe)
Subject: Re:RE Seatbelts for D110 rear

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Further to the query regarding seat-belt mountings for the D110SW,I had
occassion to need anchorages installed for a child restraint and took the
opportunity to get several more installed as tie-down points.

The installation involved rivetting 8mm square plates each of which had a
nut welded to it to the floor of the LR behind the rear pax seat.  In this
way the bolt could be put in place withoput the need to 'hold' the
underfloor nut.  I had three done and the cost was around AUD$80.  The
method of installation was a standard one and had been approved by the
relevant Road Authority.

I imagine that a similar technique could be used for the side mounted seats?

Phil Rofe
Darwin
Northern Territory
Australia

email:philr@ozemail.com.au

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 21:27:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Models of LR Discovery?

Britain's has a Discovery model which is relatively inexpensive. It's about
5.5 inch long.
Ours is a dark red-orange, and I know another color was available. We got
ours when we visited Craddock for under 10 pounds I believe, but I'm sure
they would ship one.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 1995 21:54:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Kurt Horton <khorton@deming.mdc.com>

Mr Mike,

Don't re-core that radiator with a US Corregated fin type.  I tried it and
it did ok until I was in the desert one hot day.  It couldn't keep up. 
After refitting my SIII with a LR  (Staggered core, Horizontal fin type)
the airflow through the radiator almost doubled at idle.  I haven't had
much of a chance to try it at 100+ degrees but I am thinking it will do
better that The four row that my local radiator shop put in.

I'll sell you my old one... cheap.

Also, 
For those of us in DC that want turn signals in the tail lamps.  Call
Safari Gard at (909) 698-6114  he has the multi-color lenses and can tell
you how to hook them up.  He does it all the time when he outfits Discos
with aftermarket steel bumpers.

Series Rovers (100% UTILITY, no artificial sport added)

Kurt Horton
<khorton@deming.mdc.com>
Thanks,

KPH
x2120

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 14:16:10 -0700
From: cyoungso@Direct.CA (Chris Youngson)
Subject: Re: Rovers in the Movies

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>I saw a rover in a movie called "Sands of the Kalahari" during a period of
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 24 lines)]
>               http://www.primenet.com/~beesley/
>___________________________________________________________________

Yes, I've seen that movie. The guards were driving some sort of 
cab forward (forward control) truck with a soft top. It looked 
very LRish. Maybe a South African-only model? It was similar 
in ways to a Pinzgauer. 73

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chris Youngson           cyoungso@direct.ca      1965 Series IIA 109 3 Door
West Vancouver                                   Limestone (in pieces)
British Columbia         
Canada                   Amateur Radio: VE7CST
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Nov 95 19:00:12 PST
From: Bennett Leeds <bennett@mv.us.adobe.com>
Subject: Re: Discovery quality vs. Jeep

> ...Consumer Reports. Of course, they went ahead and recommended the 

> Grand Cherokee...

Not in the review I have, dated Aug., 1995. They said: "CR would  
recommend the Grand Cherokee if not for its poor reliabilty record."

- Bennett

------------------------------

From: Sekerere@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 00:05:59 -0500
Subject: Looking for a 1994/95 Discovery

Hi Everyone,

My wife and I are in the market for a 1995 or 1994 Discovery. We need to
trade or get rid of a Mazda Navajo (1992) with 42000 miles on it. Just want
something with 4 doors and that has a fairly proven (through past models)
longevity. Not interested in Black - we live in Arizona. We want the rear
jump seats for what they are worth, leather does not really interest us.
Please pass on any info you can find-we'd appreciate your help. Also do not
want to spend the earth. There is one 1994 here in the Scottsdale dealer for
$31,018 that is pretty nice, so anything lower than that would be in the ball
park. Thanks for your help, sorry to you folks out of country who have to
read this.

Cheers

Chris Whitehead (602) 924-0431

1966 88" Series IIA - The Anti-Christ

------------------------------

From: Sekerere@aol.com
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 00:05:57 -0500
Subject: Questionable Dealing

 We looked at the "Land Rover" advertised in the newspaper today (AZ Rep).
Ulrich Motors advertised it. Anyhow I called them upo this morning and they
told me it was a 1994, white with 30000 miles on it, all the bells and
whistles. They told me the price was 27,900, so we decided to look at it.
After a bloody long journey up to Scottsdale airpark, my 19month old sqealing
a bit all the way. It turns out that it is a 1994 Range Rover-"Oh, they're
the same company" says the sales rep!!!! Like advertising a Mercury as a
 Ford!! Anyway, I think this is a bit low for a Range Rover, but that's what
they quoted me, so we drive it and look it over-a really nice vehicle. Then
the guys says "Well I need to get 36,500 out of this vehicle." At that point
I had about had it. I showed him the paper that I copied down the info from
the phone call on. "Why is there price so different???" I ask. "Oh!" he says"
that's my mistake, I told you the wrong price over the phone!!" I am now
P----- off, and I just trun around and leave. I understand why the price is
what it is, but he could have had the decency to tell me when I called him
this evening before we drove up to Scottsdale( an hour and 15 min drive in
rush hour traffic), and then to say it is a Land Rover when it is a Range
Rover-big difference!!! So don't ever deal with this guy. I think his
practices are a bit shady. 

Cheers

Chris W

1966 Series IIA 88" The Anti-Christ

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 00:14:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Sun visors

> OK...more trivia.  What was the trade name on the original IIa manual
> screen washers? 
-

I'm goon guess that the hand-operated pump I have is an original. The name
on it is KIGASS SCREENWASHER.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 17:38:45 +1000
From: o.evans@latrobe.edu.au (Owen Evans)
Subject: Current leakage problem

G'day All

I,ve lurked for a while, but now is the time for a real request.  I have a
'71 Series IIA 88", and it spends some long periods garaged
(unfortunately).  Frequent problems starting, always remedied with a few
hours on the charger.  Eventually got sick of this so started to check it
out.  With battery reasonably well charged, and everything turned off,
disconnect battery +ve cable.  Check current (if any).  About 10 milliamps.
Not much, but multiplied by a few weeks or even months, and it adds up to
a few AH.

Tried removing the fuses.  No change, so obviuosly part of the unfused
circuit.  Short of removing all the lamps one by one, any quick way to
localise the leak?  Could it be the 25yo loom itself?  Didn't have time to
check further  on this occasion.

One modification that a (particularly brutal) previous owner appears to
have made is to install an alternator and alternator controller rather than
the dynamo shown in the (Haynes) manual.  Don't know it this mod. could be
a contributor to the problem.

Any suggestions most welcome.

Owen Evans
SIIA '71

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 15:07:46 +0800
From: Oscar Montelibano <omont@mnl.sequel.net>
Subject: Safari Gard address

Can someone post or email me the address of Safari Gard?

Follow up : Can someone post an address of exhaust manifold suppliers in the
UK who does exports?

TIA

Oscar

Oscar Montelibano
omont@mnl.sequel.net
75247.2423@compuserve.com
Philippines

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 08:17:24 +0001
From: wassili@AMC.UVA.NL (Roy Wassili)
Subject: Re: Models of LR Discovery?

>Has anyone ever seen a model of a Land Rover Discovery?
>David
>---

Yep. In fact I've one. Scale 1:1. Nice toy to play with! ;-)

LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR
                ____
      |   _____/|__||   Roy Wassili,<wassili@amc.uva.nl>
      |  /(-8|  \   |   Avalon Green '95 Discovery,
  ____|_/[]__|__\___|#  scarved for live
 |] __=|     |  __  |#
[|_/  \|_____|_/  \_|]
  ( o )        ( o )

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  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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