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From: wassili@AMC.UVA.NL
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 1995 09:16:35 +0001
Subject: Info on LandRover Magazines

John and Dixon thanks for this helpfull information. If one of you is
interested in a Dutch 4x4 magazine( just for the pics I guess ?;-) ), let me
know and I'll send you one of the duplicates I have.

Thanks again!
LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR
                ____
      |   _____/|__||   Roy Wassili,<wassili@amc.uva.nl>
      |  /(-8|  \   |   Avalon Green '95 Dicovery,
  ____|_/[]__|__\___|#  scarved for live
 |] __=|     |  __  |#
[|_/  \|_____|_/  \_|]
  ( o )        ( o )

------------------------------

From: wassili@AMC.UVA.NL
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 1995 09:42:04 +0001
Subject: Anti FAQ

On advice of Dixon I just read the FAQ and the Anti FAQ  and had some
hilarious laughs 8-D, especially on number 19. So if you're a slow starter
today and haven't read the FAQ on the US RoverWeb yet, this might help you
for today.

P.S. Be aware not holding any hot liquids while reading this Anti FAQ!!
LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR*LR
                ____
      |   _____/|__||   Roy Wassili,<wassili@amc.uva.nl>
      |  /(-8|  \   |   Avalon Green '95 Dicovery,
  ____|_/[]__|__\___|#  scarved for live
 |] __=|     |  __  |#
[|_/  \|_____|_/  \_|]
  ( o )        ( o )

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 01:18:51 -0800
From: aminner@ix.netcom.com (Allen Minner)
Subject: Re: Planning a purchase

I have been thinking about getting an 87-90 Range Rover priced around $ 
18k.  Sounds like they need bushings at 80k miles, any other surprises, 
bad years?  Whats real world gas milage like? How about average repair 
cost per 10k miles?

I plan to put 23k miles a year on it.  Am I crazy?

Thanks for any help.

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 1995 04:56:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: RoverWeb, LROA, OVLR, et al. Bye

Dixon speaks of club insurance...
 
>         USA clubs should seriously consider banding together with other
>         British marque clubs and doing the same (though probably on a

As far as I know, the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA) and the Vintage
Triumph Register (VTR) have insurance policies which can cover local car
club events. If I remember correctly, the club has to be a chapter of the
national organization and some number of members of the club must also have
membership in the national organization. A couple of differant car clubs I
have been a member of over the years have joined national organizations for
this very reason.

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 1995 04:55:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Movies.

Russ W. wants to know.....

> Panhard?????? Panhead, I know.  Panhard....Hmmm Tell us a story about the 
> mystical Panhard.
/

Its French. Need I say more??

OK,OK... Front wheel drive, ugly as home made sin. Air cooled engine.
Elliptical shaped pistons... Actually pretty nice cars, in a French sort of
way...

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com>
Subject: Re: Picking up new RR
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 10:08:25 +0000 (GMT)

Matt Snyder writes:
>	The Classic unfortunately is 
> 	a slug compared to even a 6 cylinder unamed American 4wd vehicle. I believe 
> 	that the 4.6 resolves that issue.

The Classic always feels more sluggish than it really is (its surprising what you
can leave dehind without really trying).  Also the Classic runs better once it is
run in (may take 7,000-10,000 miles or more).

Yes the 4.6 does resolve this issue but it costs!  Single figure fuel consumption,
unless you can drive it with a very light right foot (and I havn't met anyone yet
who can :-))
__ 
  _ __              Apricot Computer Limited
 ' )  )      /      3500 Parkside               Tel:   (+44) 121 717 7171
  /--' o _. /_      Birmingham Business Park    Fax:   (+44) 121 717 0123
 /  <_<_(__/ <_     BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS
 Richard Jones      United Kingdom              Email: richardj@apricot.mee.com

------------------------------

From: Hldixon@aol.com
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 06:06:18 -0500
Subject: DealerNet

I was watching PC TV the other night and they were previewing a page on the
Web. It was called DealerNet. I noticed the Land Rover logo on the screen and
just had to go check it out. DealerNet is your basic how to choose a new
vehicle, special interest vehicle, boats & rv's, also gives you dealers in
your area. ( couldn't find a participating one for Land Rovers. Hey Jim
Pappas, why wasn't Metro West listed??)

Has anyone else checked this out?

Happy Rovering
Heather

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 05:26:30 -0800
From: jcwhite3@well.com (John C. White, III)
Subject: Re: eu-lro

Hey!  Who are you callin' a eu-lro!?

Why I oughta...

;-)
John

At 00:59 08.11.95 -0500, GJevne@aol.com wrote:
>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>eu-lro
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]

>To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
>eu-lro
Cheers!
John

------------------------------

From: Danny Phillips <danny@tlpgate.lonpar.co.uk>
Subject: various.
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 95 13:24:01 GMT

dear all, first does anyone know how i subscribe to the uk and european lists
i think they exist.

second the only time i had a noise in my disco with steering was a low fluid
res so for the sake of a few quid it might be worth checking.

i will flash my lights at other drivers from now on, as i am shamed, but its too cold here in the uk to have the windows open and wave.

i now have 75,000 miles on my disco, and the only things she has needed outside
of servicing are a new battery (tdi and 5 yrs old not bad on a deisal) and a 
rear door lock that we broke by letting it swing shut with the camber of our 
road.

 one thing though some of the vinyl trim is starting to lift, anyone know 
why? just usual uk weather. not garaged.

nice green mark on the rear bumper and big dent in a lamppost down the road,
teach me and the wife to rush into parking.

lastly a note to tim macdaniel, is chelmsford in the US more interesting than 
the one in the uk? the uk one was once voted 3rd most boring city in the 
country, just after coventry and grantham.town

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: Disco duning
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 01:23:10 +1100 (EDT)

Kirk,
Pleease, please lock your diff when you get up in the morning and leave 
it locked as long as you will be driving on sand or loose surfaces....
A disco is NOT the same as a TLC in 4WD mode unless the centre diff is 
locked. ("same" does not refer to anything but drive mode)
By driving with the diff unlocked on hilly, loose surfaces such as sand, 
it is almost unavoidable that one axle will load up more than the other, 
and that poor little tiny centre diff will spin for all it's worth trying 
to give more power to the axle whose wheels slip first. Two things can 
then happen: forward progress will slow or stop, possibly leading to 
another perhaps more aggressive try, and/or the gears and shafts in the 
centre diff assembly may overheat or bind or worse- break. This diff is 
included ONLY to allow the vehicle to be a "full time 4WD". That is, it 
is meant to allow a way for the front wheels of the vehicle to travel 
further than the rears in a turning situation, exactly as the front or 
rear diff will allow the outside wheel to travel further as it follows a 
larger turn radius than the inner one. This is necessary only when there 
is little or no "give" elsewhere in the system ie. the wheels are in 
contact with a gripping surface. As soon as slippage is introduced into 
the system, even if only to one wheel, all the vehicle's power will be 
transmitted to that wheel through the centre diff and then the front or 
rear diff. The front and rear diffs are relatively robust by comparison 
to the centre one, but the centre one is provided with its own 
protection: the diff lock.
Lock it up whenever the road surface is slippery enough that wheelspin 
might be encountered- the only side effect is better traction. With the 
centre diff locked, the way in which the four wheels will be driven is 
equivalent to the TLC in 4WD. Unlocked it may as well be only 2WD in 
slippery conditions, and will soon damage itself in a costly way if it is 
unlocked and the car is allowed to wheelspin.
As soon as hard, grippy surfaces are encountered, unlock the diff, as 
here is where it may have a detrimental effect by placing the drivetrain 
under increased stress, as the axles will otherwise be given equal drive 
to cover unequal distances... the usual symptoms will be similar to 
leaving the transmission handbrake slightly on, a little shuddery and 
clunky, but mostly when turning at low speeds. Probably the only damage 
in the short term will be uneven tyre wear, but it is inviting trouble to 
leave the extra stresses on unnecessarily.
I would advise you to lock the diff whenever you are off sealed roads, 
and unlock it otherwise. Once or twice a month, you should lock and 
unlock it a few times also, to keep the mechanisim free and lubricated. 
this can be done stopped, or whilst travelling in a straight line at any 
speed. There is no functional difference between having the centre diff 
locked in low or high range, and the above applies equally for both. 
Finally, the diff lock should never be engaged whilst actually spinning 
one or more wheels, or preferably not even whilst turning a corner. Using 
the diff lock in the right situations, and activating it at the right 
times will allow your vehicle to perform as well as it can in 4WD and 
minimise wear and tear on the whole drivetrain.
 
Enjoy your Disco!

cheers,
Brian.
77 RR

P.S. I've noticed that if I type too fast I end up with $WD 
instead of 4WD.... mmmm SPOOKY eh Dr. Freud? Mine loves to eat $! ;)

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 1995 10:13:03 -0700
Subject: Brake Drum Paint?

Does anyone know if the brake drums, hubs, backing plate, etc were originally 
painted on IIa's?

If yes, what color?

Thanks,

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW aka "Algernon"

------------------------------

Date: 08 Nov 95 10:22:20 EST
From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com>
Subject: Disco duning

 >> P.S. I've noticed that if I type too fast I end up with $WD
 instead of 4WD.... mmmm SPOOKY eh Dr. Freud? Mine loves to eat $! ;) <<

 I often find myself typing $x$ which unfortunately seems more correct at
times.

     -------------------
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|
   |     |   ###   |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |     | ####### |     |      1990 RangeRover
   |_____|_#######_|_____|
  [_______________________]
     |\/|           |\/|

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 08-Nov-1995

------------------------------

From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 95 11:29:22 EST
Subject: Series Dash Panels ("Bulkheads")

All,

Am considering how best to proceed with this major piece of 
my drivable project.  Situation is this:

1960 Ser II original dash panel is in place, showing rot in 
the usual spots.  Have replacement LH door post (from A-B) 
for it.  Can get footwell pieces for it or otherwise repair 
that area.  Also have IIA dash panel available (free), in 
similar condition.  Want to do a once-and-forever job on the 
panel, assuming removal is required for the sandblasting and 
high-tech repaint.  

Questions are -- Are there differences between the Ser II 
and Ser IIA dash panels???  This will decide whether I 
remove, restore, and reinstall the original, or restore the 
spare and swap it in.  Will I likely run into alignment/fit 
problems if the repairs are carried out on a removed dash 
panel?  I intend to have the welding done by a fellow 
recommended on this list, who I have since visited at his 
shop.  Also, is there anyone in Baltimore/DC area that can 
be trusted to do a bulkhead remove/reinstall and do it 
right?  For less than a king's ransome?  Unfortunately, 
doing it at home is not diplomatically viable.

Have a call in to A-B since they advertised bulkheads for 
II, IIA, III a while back.  Am considering buying one that's 
already been de-rotted, if available, and going straight to 
blast/repaint.  Waiting for the callback...

Thanks in advance for your collective experience,
Hank

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: nice conversion if...
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 02:28:02 +1100 (EDT)

A friend of mine has an interesting lump sitting in his garage:
It is a GM 6.2 litre diesel V8, and can also be found I believe in a 6.5 
litre form. It will soon sit in his Defender tray as a replacement for 
the current 400 Chev.... I think he wants to pull Rome from Italy or 
somesuch, but I watch with interest. The Defender currently has a 
Turbo400 automatic behind it, but the guy is considering a Turbo700 or 5 
speed truck box... I'll keep you posted, anyone else seen one of these 
installed? Supposed to be quite economical and super torquey, but not too 
dieselish in sound/smoothness. Looks HEAVY.

seeya
BT
77 RR.

------------------------------

From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood)
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 07:58:32 -0800
Subject: Re: various.

On Nov 8,  1:24pm, Danny Phillips wrote:
> Subject: various.
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

snip
> i will flash my lights at other drivers from now on, as i am shamed, but
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
its too cold here in the uk to have the windows open and wave.

Hey, hey. Here in the colonies we found the solution to this as we also have
a bit of the chill too: we *wash* our windows when dirty so as to wave to
strangers with the windows up }{;>)

> i now have 75,000 miles on my disco, and the only things she has needed
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
outside
> of servicing are a new battery (tdi and 5 yrs old not bad on a deisal) and
a
> rear door lock that we broke by letting it swing shut with the camber of
our
> road.
>  one thing though some of the vinyl trim is starting to lift, anyone know
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> why? just usual uk weather. not garaged.
> nice green mark on the rear bumper and big dent in a lamppost down the
road,
> teach me and the wife to rush into parking.
> lastly a note to tim macdaniel, is chelmsford in the US more interesting
> why? just usual uk weather. not garaged.
than
> the one in the uk? the uk one was once voted 3rd most boring city in the
> country, just after coventry and grantham.town
>-- End of excerpt from Danny Phillips

I get the idea that LR culls the defectives out and sends them to the US.

-- 
Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Nov 95 16:07:58 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: Dealing with DOT Customs and the dreaded EPA

All, 

has anyone dealt successfully with the DOT, EPA and CUSTOMS regarding vehicle 
entry into the USA. I'm talking about parts and also pre-67 Land Rovers. Can 
anyone who has moved stuff over here contact me so I can pick your brains. 

Looking to get Land Rovers in.

Mark

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Brake Drum Paint?
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 95 16:26:17 GMT

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 19 lines)]
> tim harincar
> harincar@mooregs.com
> '66 IIa 88 SW aka "Algernon"
There are traces of black on mine....
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 08:26:01 -0800
From: cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us (Christopher Boese)
Subject: DealerNet and another resource

Heather Dixon asks:

>I was watching PC TV the other night and they were previewing a page on the
>Web. It was called DealerNet.
>Has anyone else checked this out?

Yes; actually, DealerNet played some part in my decision to buy a Discovery,
not that I needed much convincing. In fact, I'd seen an article on the Camel
Trophy the year before the Discovery appeared in the US. I decided on the
spot that if it were ever imported I'd have to take a serious look.

There's an even better source of information for those considering buying a
Land Rover product--the Edmund's Web site at
http://www.enews.com:80/magazines/edmunds/.

Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Nov 95 11:43:29 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Importing 101FC

          Greetings
          There was a chap at the Mid-Atlantic Rally that
          had one. He brought it over without the engine. He
          then added a winch, Rover V8, (which is standard I
          believe) and a top for the back section. The
          vehicle was purchased from PRB services in the UK.
          PRB advertises in LROI every month. The fellows
          name was Jared Silbersher, if anyone knows how to
          get a hold of him then maybe you can enlist his
          help.
          Cheers
          David Bobeck
          Washington DC
          72 SeriesIII SWB "Green Car"
          dbobeck@ushmm.org

------------------------------

From: "Grimes, Sean" <grimes@uf9455p01.MinneapolisMN.attgis.com>
Subject: unsubscribe
Date: Wed Nov 08 11:14 CST 1995

unsubscribe

------------------------------

From: "Grimes, Sean" <grimes@uf9455p01.MinneapolisMN.attgis.com>
Subject: unsubscribe
Date: Wed Nov 08 11:18 CST 1995

    unsubscribe lro-digest Sean Grimes 
<sean.grimes@MinneapolisMN.ATTGIS.COM>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Nov 95 09:25:43 -0800
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Hub nut socket?

In message <199511080250.VAA28015@butler.uk.stratus.com> "John Y. Liu" writes:
;
> I assume by hub nuts you mean the two large-diameter nuts that hold the hub
> on the stub axle.
;
> Instead, they should be just snug.

I would suggest following the work shop manual on this.  They are not tightened 
down snug.  There is a definite amount of freeplay that should be there.  Set 
the freeplay with the first nut jam the second one down on the first to keep it 
tight, then remeasure the freeplay.
;
 
>  So, hopefully, you'll be able to get them off with some
> skinny-nosed channel lock pliers and a little ingenuity and cussing.  
;
The outer ones are normally on too tight for channel locks.
;
; 
> If the nuts are on really tight, you can always use a chisel/screwdriver and
> hammer 
;
I've seen hub nuts with some big gouges from chisels.  If you go to reuse the 
nut you need to file the sides flat again and figure out how to get the outer 
nut tight when you put it back on.
;
If you own a series car for a long time, you will replace the seals 
periodically.  I consider the hub socket to be a basic part of my Land Rover 
tool set.  You end up paying more for hub seals, grease & gaskets than you do 
for a socket, so why not get the tools to do the job correctly so you won't have
to do it as often.
;
Think of it like using a set of wrenches instead of a crescent wrench on 
everything.
;
TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 12:33:43 -0500
From: Tim McDaniel <mcdaniel@adra.com>
Subject: Re: Series Dash Panels ("Bulkheads")

At 11:29 AM 11/8/95 EST, you wrote:

>....... Will I likely run into alignment/fit 
>problems if the repairs are carried out on a removed dash 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)]
>right?  For less than a king's ransome?  Unfortunately, 
>doing it at home is not diplomatically viable.

        I spoke to Bruce McEnaney at DAP (Springfield VT) about bulkheads/
        doorpost/footwell repair yesterday.  I will be doing similar repairs
        to my Series III sometime kindof-sortof soon.  His cautions were
        to not replace any more of the doorpost than necessary and to be
        extremely careful about all other work.  The main problem that
        he has seen people end up with were alignment problems.  He was
        referring to alignment of the door(s) and alignment of the body to
        the chassis.  If only the bottom of the doorpost is shot and you
        can replace just that section, then the upper hinge holes are
        already aligned.

        He said for his shop to do complete doorposts and footwells to two 
        sides would run about $1000 total and that he likes to do it over a 3
        day period.  Way too much for me, so I'll be tackling it myself.
        He felt that any competent shop should be able to handle the job
        as long as they don't rush it.

        He also has remanufactured bulkheads in stock.  He gets $1200 for
        one plus exchange.  I think they remanufacture them at their shop,
        Bruce McEnaney 802-885-6660.
                                        Tim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 12:36:02 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Importing 101FC

On Wed, 8 Nov 1995, Bobeck, David R. wrote:

>           There was a chap at the Mid-Atlantic Rally that
>           had one. He brought it over without the engine. He
>           then added a winch, Rover V8, (which is standard I
>           believe) and a top for the back section. 

	This 101 was purchased in more parts than this.  It was not
	a vehicle that was dissassembled, just to get it into the USA for 
	reassembly.  He had to pick up a lot more pieces that were missing
	and bring it all over and put back together.  The 101 was very 
	much incomplete and took more than a year to get the remaining
	pieces & reassemble.

------------------------------

From: William Terry <wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com>
Subject: Trying to reach MARK PERRY
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 13:50:10 -0500 (EST)

Sorry for the spam, but the address on his last post isn't working for me.

Mark,

Please, email me and I'll try using a respond. I want to discuss something, 
but don't want to take the bandwidth on lro.

TIA, Bill

______________W__i__l__l__i__a__m_____D__a__n_____T__e__r__r__y______________
  How do we acquire wisdom along with all these shiny things? (David Brin)

  wterry@sartre.minerva.bah.com
  http://glenfiddich.minerva.bah.com:8062/CyberJungle.html
  MINERVA Development Team, Booz, Allen & Hamilton

------------------------------

Date: 08 Nov 95 14:19:06 EST
From: <Chris_Browne@us014-boston-minet.ccmail.compuserve.com>
Subject: land rovers on the dunes

---------------------------------- Forwarded ----------------------------------
From: Chris Browne at US014-BOSTON-MINET
Date: 11/8/95 11:37AM
Receipt Requested
Subject: land rovers on the dunes
---------------------------------- Forwarded ----------------------------------
From: Chris Browne at US014-BOSTON-MINET
Date: 11/8/95 9:29AM
Receipt Requested
Subject: land rovers on the dunes
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

============== Begin part 2 ==========================

     have played with my disco on the beaches around cape cod 3 times this 
     year with great success. went with BSROA a couple of times and solo 
     the other. great fun digging toyotas out-the ford escaped before we 
     got to him.
     to maintain good forward motion on sand you should be dropping the 
     tyre/tire pressure down to 12-15lbs persq inch. only need central diff 
     lock when climbing over a hill or ridge. otherwise you should be able 
     to keep on going without the diff locked. no damage can result from 
     using it all the time when locked except on hard non slippery surfaces
      
     as a club we always run in low range, which helps keeps speed down. 
     there are many feathered animals out there who love the wheel ruts as 
     a place to curl up and sleep so keeping speeds down helps.
     sand by the way is very damaging to vehicles and you must wash it down 
     afterwards to protect the vehicle. and don't forget to reinflate the 
     tyres when returning to the road.
     regards
     chris browne
     minet gallagher associates, boston
     http://minet-tech.com
     chris_browne@minet-usa-bos.ccmail.compuserve.com 

============== End part 2 ============================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 19:51:23 -0600 (CST)
From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: RE: 101 FC Questions

In message Tue, 7 Nov 1995 23:04:32 -0700 (MST),
  beesley@primenet.com (Brad Beesley)  writes...

...about a 50 state expedition.

No answers (don't know the ambulance/radion conversion) but one question:

You are not going to call it Rosinante are you?

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 19:53:07 -0600 (CST)
From: "Soren Vels Christensen" <velssvch@inet.uni-c.dk>
Subject: RE: 101 FC Questions

In message Tue, 7 Nov 1995 23:04:32 -0700 (MST),
  beesley@primenet.com (Brad Beesley)  writes...

...about a 50 state expedition.

No answers (don't know the ambulance/radion conversion) but one question:

You are not going to call it Rosinante are you?

rgds
sv/aurens

------------------------------

From: Harincar@mooregs.com (Tim Harincar)
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 1995 14:35:51 -0700
Subject: Re: Hub Nut Socket?

Thanks for all the replies regarding this tool. Michael Slade has generously 
agreed to ship me his for this project, since he won't be using it.

BTW, consensus seems to be that the tool is worth having and is better than 
alternate methods, although channellock's are the first runner-up.

Once again, the power of the net saves me time and money! [OTOH, it was the 
power of the net that got me a Rover in the first place, which has definatly 
*cost* me time and money :-) ]

tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@mooregs.com
'66 IIa 88 SW aka "Algernon"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 11:51:51 -0800
From: cboese@co.san-bernardino.ca.us (Christopher Boese)
Subject: Land Rover Bicycle (!)

FYI, everyone, here's the URL for a description of that Land Rover bicycle.
According to the Web search site's abstract, the bike is built under license
from LR. I haven't been able to connect to the site yet, but someone in the
UK might have better luck:

http://137.205.192.13/~esrgq/moulton/landrapb.html

Christopher Boese
County of San Bernardino, California
Information Services, Information Systems Security Office
1995 beluga black Discovery

------------------------------

From: Wes Newman <newmanpp@corcomsv.corcom.com>
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 12:14:43 AST
Subject: Brake Problems

I have a 1967 109" Rover with brake problems.  I have tried to bleed them by  
the book (parked on an uphill) and even replaced the master cylinder but still  
having problems.  Does anyone know of other tricks to bleed the brakes?

____________________________________________________________
Personal Internet address:   newmanpp@corcom.com        
IBM Internet address:          wdnewman@vnet.ibm.com    
IBM Alaska Home Page:     http://www.corcom.com/wnewman/ibmakhom.html 
____________________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Nov 95 16:18:40 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: LRO's in Boston.

          I know there's lots of you out there. In fact last
          time i was there I saw an actual Land-Rover so
          that proves it. I'll be in Beantown this Friday,
          Saturday and Sunday, to visit my SO, who hasn't
          seen the "Green Car" yet. Anybody want to get
          together for some "trail-riding"? I don't know
          what's up there but I suspect I prob'ly don't have
          to go to far from the city to find some nice
          trails. If nobody wants to hang out then at least
          clue me in to some good spots. Please.
          Thanks
          Dave "Been All Over..."Bobeck
          72 SERIII swb "Green Car"
          dbobeck@ushmm.org

          ps- Brian Bonner are you out there?

------------------------------

Date: 8 Nov 1995 17:21:10 -0500
From: "Sean McInerney" <smcinerney@mail.nrgn.com>
Subject: More dynamo current?

 More dynamo current?
Okay gang-

  Now that I have finished replacing every rubber seal in the body of the
beast, I am officially on to other projects.  First off will be my
installation of a personally refurbished Mk. IV Kodiak.  Presently heating is
provided by warm engine compartment air flowing through the holes where the
Smiths foot-soaker once was.

  But since this will all happily be done quite soon, I am moving on to
"what-ifs" to devote my time and money to.  My Rover is a 1963 and remains
positively earthed, chugging along with its C-40 generator.  Alas....one side
of me wants more power for the likes of PIAA "landing lights" while I also
wish to remain somewhat authentically simple..read: not wishing to give up
the durability of a generator for the power and rewiring tasks of an
alternator.  I really do not want anything so "high-tech" as a diode in my
landie :-).

QUESTION:  (1)Does the larger C-42 generator pump out an appreciably greater
current flow when compared to a C-40 (22amps)?...compared to an alternator? 
(2)Is the C-42 and its associated control box an, essentially, a bolt-in
swap?....If I can find one for a reasonable price.

Waiting to be educated,
  Sean C. McInerney

1963 SIIa 88" HT...world's greatest sources of random questions

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Nov 95 16:37:54 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Squirrels in my heater

          Now I know why the Series III heater fan is
          referred to as a "Squirrel Cage". When you turn it
          on it sounds like there's a squirrel inside! Neat.
          Seriously (really, stop laughin' at me) whenever I
          first turn the heater on it sounds like
          the bearings are self-destructing, then
          once it gets going it quiets down. I'd
          like to at least know what this is before
          it actually gets cold. Anybody had this
          happen? No? You will now! "List syndrome"
          strikes again!
          Dave Bobeck
          72 SeriesIII "Habitrail"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Nov 95 16:40:53 EST
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: v8 cams (again) and vac. advance with CD's

Hi all,

Any news on the 3.5 v8 aftermarket (e.g. Crane) cam vs. stock?
I can't believe there's not a Rangie around that has  worn its
original cam and went for a better bumpstick...
Also, I heard that RN ran an article in the newsletter ?? back comparing
the OEM vs aftermarket.  Has anyone got a copy of that?

And, moving on to the distributor:  With the dual CD's, what's the point??
Isn't it supposed to be constant vac.?  So it's always watever the engine
vac. is, regardless of the throttle position?
I hooked up a vac. gauge to mine: as soon as it's at all open, the vac. stays
steady at 20" or so.  So why bother?
BTW, is this normal, or am I hooked up to a wrong port :0  ?

Jan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 16:55:09 -0500 (EST)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: Re: Virgin airlines etc.

To follow up on the Virgin story, indeed the pres. did have a major 
accident in a RR in which his entire family survived.  The interesting 
thing was, because of the accident he placed an order for 600 RRs!!!  
Those were to be built over 3 years and each one replaced appx. every 3 
months - unbelievable!!!

Answer to yesterday's trivia - the LR Discovery is aka the Honda 
Crossroads in Japan.  Ouch!

Today's trivia is extra simple  -  how can one differentiate a 1988 RR 4 
door from a later model 1990?  Very subtle...  think about the exterior 
differences between a late IIA and a series III (besides the grill!)...

Frank Twarog
Burlington, VT 

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Disco arriving any day:  Cold Feet
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 95 18:01:07 -0500
From: Gary Mitchelson <garym@cais.cais.com>

-- [ From: Gary Mitchelson * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

> And, NO-ONE ever posts: "Well, I've put on 10K miles and it's never  
> been in the shop except for scheduled maintainence." Can someone do  
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
> reliability that almost led to Jaguar going under.
> So, you Disco lurkers, here's your chance: Tell me how reliable your  
vehicle
> has been.

9000 miles on a 95 and I had it in once for leaking PS fluid which ended up
being a loose clamp.
--
Gary Mitchelson                     
garym@racalrecord.com                                
N3JPU

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 15:40:17 -0800 (PST)
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: Re: Virgin airlines etc.

On Wed, 8 Nov 1995, Francis J. Twarog wrote:

> Today's trivia is extra simple  -  how can one differentiate a 1988 RR 4 
> door from a later model 1990?  Very subtle...  think about the exterior 
> differences between a late IIA and a series III (besides the grill!)...

I think I noticed this one when comparing my 88 RR to one on the local 
Jag used -oops- pre-owned lot.  The rear wiper on mine is mounted at the 
top of the window, and the newer one was mounted at the bottom.

Walt Swain

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
               Walter C. Swain          |  wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us 
               Davis Community Network  |  1988 Range Rover
               Davis, California        |  1967 109 Series IIA Safari SW

------------------------------

Date:     Wed, 8 Nov 95 13:12:27 EST (1812Z)
From: LTC Larry Smith <smithla@arngrc-emh2.army.mil>
Subject:  Hub Wrench

To all,

Have been following the threads on the various methods for removal/refixing of
the nuts used to hold the wheel hubs in place.

As someone stated (sorry, I deleted your message before I remembered to get
your name), you don't (shouldn't) need a lot of force to remove and refit the
nuts.  I went to the local NAPA store and they ordered a 2 1/16inch hub
service/wheel bearing wrench (looks like an oversized sheetmetal sparkplug
wrench).  Cost was about $12.00.  No, its not a perfect fit, esp. with the
rounded corners on the nuts, but it works.

Also caught the posting on the RR having the distance piece/seal race machined
as a part of the axle.  Not sure where I read it, but some of the Series
vehicles also had the race machined the same way.  I agree, you need to read
the manual.

BTW, have been copying the pages and laminating with clear contact
paper.  Learned the hard way in the Army.  In the middle of the job, screw up
the page, and can't get any more manuals from the supply system.  Yes, greasy
pages are a badge of honor and a cheap page marker, but I ain't smart enough to
get it put back together without the book.  Guess that's why I'm in the Army
   (;^>

Best to all,

Larry

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: vac advance.
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 11:12:21 +1030 (CST)

Jan comments:
> I hooked up a vac. gauge to mine: as soon as it's at all open, the vac. stays
> steady at 20" or so.  So why bother?
> BTW, is this normal, or am I hooked up to a wrong port :0  ?

Sounds funny.  the vac advance on mine certainly modulates with throttle
opening.  mind you the "normal" state seems to be advanced, but it drops off
at idle and wide openings.
As for the wrong port, is there more than one???  there is only one port on
my LH carb and none on the right...
cheers

-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Nov 1995 18:13:56 +0000
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: Brake Problems

>I have a 1967 109" Rover with brake problems.  I have tried to bleed them by  
>the book (parked on an uphill) and even replaced the master cylinder but
still  
>having problems.  Does anyone know of other tricks to bleed the brakes?

 Wes,

 You're NOT supposed to raise the front of a 109.  It needs to be dead level
 as the rear cylinder will trap air.

____________________________________________________________
>Personal Internet address:   newmanpp@corcom.com        
>IBM Internet address:          wdnewman@vnet.ibm.com    
>IBM Alaska Home Page:     http://www.corcom.com/wnewman/ibmakhom.html 
>____________________________________________________________

 Ahh... I think I have located the only 'mystery' subscriber to the Unimog
 Network Int'l list (UNi)   :)

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 95 19:03:39 PST
Subject: Re: Misc.

- Today, I fell in love all over again. Needed to pick up my ARB bumper/Warn 
winch combo from truck depot in Avon, MA. Decided to take F/C as 10-ft. bed 
would handle anything. Two hours later and couldn't get her started. Plugged 
in block heater. Used kero heater to warm underside of truck, and put battery 
charger on full boost. Hmmm. Not even a click of the solenoid! Aha! The 
solenoid! Crawled underneath and looked. Sure `nuff. Copper strap from cold 
side of solenoid to starter housing cracked in two!! Vibration  finally takes 
its toll after untold years. Solenoid on order. Time for plan B.

Got Big Red fired up! 109 2A w/transplant engine. Frame like Swiss cheese. 
Steering shot. Holes in floor. Chunks of seat upholstery gone. Springs flat. 
But the heart and soul of a lion. She was proud to chug up Rte.128 at 65 so 
that I could deliver a spanking new Disco SE to a happy new owner at Metro 
West. After, I trundled down to Overnight Trucking to pick up my new toy. Boys 
at RN outdid themselves. The stuff was completely *crated* and insulated to 
the nines inside! Outstanding packing job! The lads at the depot helped me 
uncrate the goodies as the crate wouldn't fit inside Big Red. So, 275 pounds 
of ballast in the back - we completed the tour back to the house. Not a 
whimper. Not a strain. Left channel of Alpine stereo still worked. Same tape 
still in player for past five years. Cranked up the gain. Leslie West grinding 
the axe- barely audible above the cacophany. I actually burst out laughing! It 
felt so good to be back! Ah. A true workhorse. Rewards for her loyalty coming 
in future. I have completely restored frame for her tucked in garage. Will 
retro NADA 2.6L engine back during reconstruction. Hate to lose that 5.0L 
though. Damn, it *always* starts and never needs nuthin'. But a NADA 6-cyl 
tugs at my heart. Loyalty wins out in the end. What a great escape down 
yesterroad! Now I *really* miss my 88. I must go retrieve her and finish the 
electrics. A series is a series. A Defender is an awesome vehicle. I love `em 
all. But a series completes the mind link. Virtual reality with your past. 
Wow! Scary.

- Interesting piece in latest LRO and LRW about a fellow who hit a rock wall 
head on in his D90, fell 46 feet into a river and had an articulated truck 
fall on top of him!! He crawled out without a scratch! Truck driver broke both 
legs. I wouldn't have believed it `cept both magazines ran photo. Unreal! 
Owner said not one straight panel left except rear door but chassis held and 
survived the impact, fall, and weight of truck rolling onto the Land Rover!

- Latest LRO features BSROA newsletter cover in Clubs section. Thanks, LRO!

- No NAS Discovery (or any other that I know of) has any type of active or 
passive adjustable suspension (pneumatic or Boge strut). 

- RE: Camel Trophy/ESPN. The piece that we've mostly all seen last couple of 
weeks was only the *Camel Trophy: The Ultimate Adventure Quest* Sort of a 
teaser on the event itself. The original complete tape of the event was 
postponed due to what was thought to be an inferior soundtrack. Back to 
drawing board to re-lay the audio. The previously booked ESPN slots were 
filled with the piece that was aired last week. In fact, the proper Camel 
Trophy event will be aired as follows in 30 and 60-minute segments:

11/15	Camel Trophy Mundo Maya `95: 1500-1600 	ESPN-2

11/22	Camel Trophy Mundo Maya `95: 0300-0400 	ESPN-2

11/28	Camel Trophy Mundo Maya `95: 0130-0200	ESPN

11/28 	Camel Trophy Mundo Maya `95: 1700-1730	ESPN

12/24 	Camel Trophy Mundo Maya `95: 1500-1600	ESPN-2

1-	Assumption is made that times are local EST. Check local listings to 
verify
2-	The above information has been cleared for customer release by LRNA 
Corporate 	
	Communications.
3-	Enjoy!

cheerz

Jim - don't know *WHICH* side of the steering column to fit the key anymore...

`67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (#457/500)
`95 D90 #1958

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Nov 1995 22:04:10 EST
From: SWKW53A@prodigy.com (MR JAMES F MCHUGH)
Subject: Discovery Woes!

I have put 16m miles on a 95 Discovery in 6 months. I spent a lot
of time on the beach this summer and have spent a fair amount of
time in the woods this fall. The squeaking steering column showed
up last week and was fixed (at the 15m service stop) yesterday by
lubricating the firewall fitting. Apart from a very early and minor
problem (engine oil leaking from a gasket when ascending steep
inclines), a small leak under the glove compartment in driving rain
and a few, easily fixed rattles, I have had no problems. I
made a special trip to the dealer to have the oil leak fixed but
all other problems were adjusted, under warranty, at regular
servicing. The dealer (Land Rover MetroWest in Natick, MA) is
excellent and the service staff is knowledgeable, friendly and
takes the time to explain to new owners like me features and
systems I do not fully understand. I am fully satisfied. This car's
off-road capability is far better than anything I have had before
and, after 6 months of heavy use, I have no reason to doubt its
reliability. 
Regards, 
Jim McHugh

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: Disco arriving any day:  Cold Feet
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 18:59:47 -0800

> And, NO-ONE ever posts: "Well, I've put on 10K miles and it's never  
> been in the shop except for scheduled maintainence." Can someone do  
	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
> reliability that almost led to Jaguar going under.
> So, you Disco lurkers, here's your chance: Tell me how reliable your 
 vehicle
> has been.

95 Black Discovery service history for the past 3.5 months
	2500 miles: 	Oil change & 
				sent to body shop to re-align rear door (mounted wrong)
	7500 miles: 	Oil change & 
				replaced A/C button (light out)
				replaced R. Headlight (getting dim)
				replaced L/R valve cover gaskets (minor seepage)
				replaced rear transfer case seal (seepage around e-brake)
				replaced trim fastener (fell out)

Total maintenance expense so far: $ 50.08 (2nd oil change, first one was 
free)

    _____
   /|__|_\___                            Bob Watson
  |   |   |  \                 a-robw@microsoft.com
  |---|___|___\____      Mountlake Terrace, WA, USA 
  |  _|=  |=  |o_  }\                
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/                            N7UMU

				

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Nov 95 00:35:19 UT
From: "Mark Talbot" <Land_Rover@msn.com>
Subject: FOR SALE  88 TROPICAL ROOF

F O R  S A L E 

88 Tropical roof, comes off a 71 SIIA. Offers in the region of $250 

Call or e-mail  603-357-3401

Mark

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 1995 23:34:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Squirrels in my heater

Dave Bobeck and his squirrels
      - or -
Look, Boris! Is Moose and Squirrel!

>           Now I know why the Series III heater fan is
>           referred to as a "Squirrel Cage". When you turn it
>           on it sounds like there's a squirrel inside! Neat.
/

It *is* annoying, isn't it. My Ser III did that - it got worse when it was
cold. At -20F it was *real* bad... but then you don't get much heat, so why
bother at all...

Cheers
Mike

------------------------------

From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 1995 23:34:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: rro

 
> rro
-

Hey.... That's the noise my Landy makes when it gets c-c-cold outside.

------------------------------

From: ARPollard@aol.com
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 00:17:50 -0500
Subject: re: Overheat light - transmission

Re: a couple of postings about getting false transmission fluid overheat
indications in Discos after "swimming".

I had the same thing happen with my '87 RR a couple of years ago after
fording a river several times (it was fun).  I assumed the sensor was damaged
by thermal shock -- it's right behind the grill on the tranny cooler.  Due to
the high cost of replacement -- over $60 US, combined with the fact that I
have never even come close to overheating it, don't pull trailers, etc, I
just disconnected it (I may have had to short the wires, can't remember for
sure).

WARNING!  When I was trying to diagnose the overheat light, I discovered that
my ATF had turned cloudy and grayish.  Water I presume.  Be sure to check
yours!  Flushing it out required several cycles of drain, fill, drive,
drain... because the fluid in the torque converter doesn't come out when you
drain it.

It only just now occurred to me that the sensor malfunction could have been
related to the altered thermal and/or electrical properties of the
water-contaminated ATF.  I'll try hooking it back up and see if it's still
broken.  I'll let you know if I learn anything.

Alan Pollard
Colorado Springs, CO
arpollard@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 9 Nov 1995 00:29:25 -0500 (EST)
From: James Kirkpatrick - INEN/F94 <jkirkpat@acs.ryerson.ca>
Subject: Re: Manuals and dirty hands

As far as copywrite infringement, the Series I Manual is not copywrited, 
at least in a manner recognisable by the local copy shop.  The employee 
even called the manager over because "they don't make books like this 
without copy write" after much discussion they decided to copy the parts 
I needed.  I don't know about the other manuals though.

I still need to know if the Series I wheel cylinders and the IIA are 
interchangeable - if anyone knows HELP!

Regards,
Jay Kirkaptrick
'55 Series I
'69 Series IIA

------------------------------

From: tbr1102@hpmail.lrz-muenchen.de
Subject: Leaky center diff
Date: Thu, 9 Nov 95 8:28:16 MET

Hi all
I've a little problem (most of you won't even call it this way).
After driving my center diff of my 110 (1989) looses some drops
of gearoil. It seems to be related with the diff getting warm,
since it stops after it cools down. The comes out somewhere 
at the upper part of the housing (perhaps where the two parts
are flanched together), not at one of the shaftseals. 
The oillevel is completele ok.
If I were free to do so, I wouldn't do anything about it, but
they are a bit nasty about oil on the parking lot where I live.

If anyone has seen something like this before, please tell me.

Thanks,
Franz
--
Franz Parzefall			 tbr1102@hpmail.lrz-muenchen.de
       _______
      [____|\_\==
      [_-__|__|_-]           exmil. 110 2.5D
 ___.._(0)..._.(0)__.._
                                  

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
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