Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 10:45:23 +0000 (GMT)
From: Nobody Home <hec2@coventry.ac.uk>
Subject: Discovery Project

Hello!
 I am a 3rd year student at Civentry University and for my honours project 
I am analysing the "Success of the Discovery". I will be looking at the 
Disco in terms of the Product itself, the price, promotion,etc.etc., so 
the project will have a marketing slant. I thought this an appropriate 
subject to cover as I drive a LR/RR hybrid off-road at the weekends.
 If anyone has got any information on anything to do with the Discovery or 
even wish to express their personal opinion on the vehicle I WOULD BE 
VERY GRATEFUL!!!
 It may take me a while to reply but your help would be appreciated.

Please email me:
     Helen>>>>     hec2@coventry.ac.uk

*****************************************************************************
 	    __                  Nobody home and
	 _,~/ )                 No books to read
	O_ ^\/ `- - . 
	 `~\         `@         What about the pig?
   	    ;, ,_(   ;    
  	   //_/  //_/           What about it?                           
      hec2@coventry.ac.uk
*****************************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 22:29:16 +1100 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: Landy/BMW and US army Rovers

LROC printed a letter from LR to an oz business
telling them to stop using the name, but although it
was doubtless upsetting in that it was a change in
the status quo, it was quite reasonable in tone  -
like I might get ****** off if someone had been using my name
for profit for a long time.  The implication seemed to be that
they could "do a deal" but there might be $ involved and quality
could be an issue.

Clubs commonly have permission, sometimes written (!) to use
the LR logo, for example.  Intent, hurt and profit are
definitely part of copyright law.

There was also a report that LR had put the hard word on Dipstick's
(the cartoon) author -  which I find very hard to believe as
I would have thought that LR-BMW would have no leg to stand on?
Can anyone confirm this?  [Who, me paranoid about copyright?]

Mind you, Bill Spear tells me that Harley D want to copyright
the exhaust note of their bikes!  Maybe LR could copyright
an oil-stain?

I have read, but it could be a conspiracy-theory, that
car companies are looking at using copyright of their designs
to prevent non-standard spares being made and sold.

How do the US military LRs compare with the UK SAS
and with the oz Perentie
http://www.cs.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Perentie/index.html
[Isuzu 3.9D, turbo in 6x6, 4x4 modified D110, 6x6 mostly "new".]

Lloyd

------------------------------

From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Soccer practice...
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 11:45:05 +0000 (GMT)

>You're absolutely right, of course.  LR's are *very* versatile. 
>However, if
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 14 lines)]
>Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
>sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen
>know."

The alternative strategy is to sell some of the children for scientific
experiments in order to finance the running of the Land Rover.
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

From: "John J. Tackley" <jtackley@dit2.state.va.us>
Date:          Tue, 31 Oct 1995 07:23:55 -0500
Subject:       Def 110 4sale - NOT!

I called that Alaska number to get some details about the 100 mil 
spec '92 110's 4sale and I spoke with Jake.  Jake says that after 8 
months of dicking around with the EPA, that they have given up 
selling any of these vehicles into the US.  He did say that they were 
working on fulfilling an order from someone in the US Virgin Islands 
though, so there is a chance that you rovers outside the US can still 
cop the deal.  He did take my name and number 'just in case'.  I will 
let the digest know if I hear from Jake, but don't hold your 
collective breath..........
BTW, as an aside to Malcom at the EPA, any truth to this story from
 your perspective????????And have you sold that beautiful 109 yet???
John J. Tackley

------------------------------

Date:  Tue, 31 Oct 1995 08:26:00 -0500 
From: "christian (c.j.) szpilfogel" <chrisz@bnr.ca>
Subject:  re:Hams 

[snip...]
Sorry for interrupting, but as a non-native English-speaking uhh typing
member of the list, could any one explain to me what a ham radio is? I
assume its not the kind of ham one gets from the local butcher though? Or
did I miss a thread about new technologies were they import ham from
Tjernobyl and convert them to transistors in implement them in new car hifi?
[...unsnip]

It's a nickname for Amateur Radio operators. My father (VE1KG) is a big
ham :-) and by his setup, I refer to him as the blow-torch of the Atlantic.
Actually he likes lower power and more antennae.

Most hams I know really like to get their hands dirty in the electronics
which is probably why they are also associated with LRs. Could be that
they see Lucas wiring as a challenge that must be taken head on!

Cheers,

  -Christian

P.S. Dixon, I believe you were the closest. When I went to sleep it was
     50.6 vs. 49.4 for the Non.

---------------
Christian Szpilfogel
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 31 Oct 95  8:47:17 EST
Subject: re:Hams

>Most hams I know really like to get their hands dirty in the electronics
>which is probably why they are also associated with LRs. Could be that
>they see Lucas wiring as a challenge that must be taken head on!

>Cheers,

>  -Christian

As a ham, I have a sincere fondness for the old tube-type gear, most of which 
is hand-wired with cotton-covered wire from which the color codes have long 
since faded. It's incredibly tough for its design, but crotchety and difficult 
to get parts for except from specialist dealers.

See a resemblance yet? 8*>

  Alan/N1TWY
  Also with a 2-meter rig in the Rover....

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 05:59:23 -0800 (PST)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Discovery Woes

Roy,

"Ham" radio is a nickname for "amateur" radio.  "Ham operators" are 
licensed for some of the shortwave bands.  I don't know the exact radio 
frequencies that are involved as I am not a ham.  I'm sure one of the 
other LROs who is a ham and maybe a bad actor (another type of ham) will 
be happy to give more details.

Cheer!
John
'95 Discovery, also scarred
San Francisco, California

On Tue, 31 Oct 1995 wassili@AMC.UVA.NL wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> >To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 25 lines)]
> [|_/  \|_____|_/  \_|]
>   ( o )        ( o )

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 10:15:10 -0500
From: chrisste@clark.net (Chris Stevens)
Subject: More Paint Codes

Paint code from Sherwin Williams Automotive Finishes for Marine Blue is
J5-6118 00. This is the Acrylyd finish. I tried the synthetic and it was
off by about 1 million shades.

Chris Stevens

Beckett Klay
100 West Road
Suite 300
Baltimore, MD 21294
USA
(410) 583-6146
(410) 583-1935 (FAX)
chrisste@Clark.net

------------------------------

From: Treit Le <Treit_Le@apprise.com>
Date: 31 Oct 95 10:23:50 
Subject: 7500 warranty

I called up 3 dealers in my area and found that the 7500 mile service on a '95 
Classic runs $45-54. Are all the services subsidized and equally cheap? Can you 
have multiple 7500 mile services? Like every 3,000 miles for instance?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 95 09:05:01 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: 109 pulled the RR through the mountains... SLOW

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: 109 pulled the RR through the mountains... SLOW
Just thought I'd let you all know that the 109 performed flawlessly as it
churned, chugged, and guzzled gas pulling the RR up the mountains from
Phoenix to Flagstaff Arizona (USA). What would normally have taken me a
little less than 3 hours took 5 hours. I was passed by *every* semi on the
road. The slowest *long* hill required 2nd gear, and even at that, it was
lugging, and the only thing that kept me from downshifting to first was the
fact that I didn't want to lose my momentum! In a 150 mile trip, I used
almost 25 gallons of fuel! This was serious work for the old gal!

On the way back, I met up with Gerry and James, and we did a bit of
wheeling. I crossed my first river with the 109, around 30" deep! Ahem... I
mean, 2.5 meters! Oops! Make that .75 meter! (This metric stuff is gonna
burn me sometime, like when I try to order a quantity of cement or
something...) But the fact that Gerry's Disco had a winch made it easier to
go for it. We also traveled on many miles of washboard road. Poor old gal
got the *%$ shaken out of her.

When I got back, I hosed off the frame, and found a *great* deal of rust
flakes inside the frame. (Poked my finger through a drain hole to discover
about a half inch, 15 cm... make that mm of rust flakes!) This frame's even
worse than I thought. But I have a line on a good, used, rust free frame
that I'm going to look at this weekend. Also, the exhaust pipe to manifold
had rattled loose, and when I tried to tighten it, 2 of the 3 studs broke
off. (Darn rust!) So I had to take off the intake and exhaust manifolds off,
and will be taking them in to be drilled out and retapped, probably with a
US standard thread.

I don't think I posted this earlier, but in case I have, sorry... my memory
is *so* bad that... I forgot what I was going to say.... ;)

Sorry to hear about James! I don't know what happened... I tried to call him
twice, but he wasn't in the first time, and was on the phone the second
time... I'll keep trying. Meanwhile, he's in my prayers.

Have fun!

Dave (wet behind the ears) Brown.

 #=====#         #========#          -------,___           ________
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___      |--' |  |  \_|_      /__/__|__\___
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}    |  _ |--+--|_  |     \_/-\_|__/-\_|}
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"    ||_/_\___|__/_\_|}      (_)    (_)
                                       (_)      (_)
 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa     1994 Discovery (Sold) '87 Range Rover
 LIC: LION B8    Historic plates     (Too hard to "draw")  rear Lock-Right
                 (rust bucket frame)

#=======#          ________           We make a living by what we get,
|__|__|__\___     /__/__|__\___        we make a life by what we give.
| _|  |   |_ |}   \_/-\_|__/-\_|}
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                       Winston Churchill

------------------------------

Date: 31 Oct 95 11:31:23 EST
From: Mike Kneafsey <73407.1504@compuserve.com>
Subject: D90 For Sale in Tulsa

Saw a D90 with 900 miles at Clark Motor Cars in Tulsa.  I believe they were
asking $25,600.  This was the first I have seen in Tulsa.
 
Someday I still hope to save my pennies for a 109.
 
Mike Kneafsey

------------------------------

Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore)
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 95 11:54:08 -0500

re:
>Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 10:57:51 +0100
>From: Peter Kutschera <peter@zditr1.arcs.ac.at
>Subject: Need help with 2.25 Diesel: smoking when idle
>Hello!

>Whe I got  my SIIa 109 (1968) about 3 years ago the engine was the
>only part working fine. 
>This changed last fall. 
>Hello!

>It is now nearly impossible tho start when the temperature goes below
>5 Deg Celsius, the engine smokes REALY MUCH when idle or going
>downhill. 

and 

>From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
>Subject: Re: Need help with 2.25 Diesel: smoking when idle
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>totally worn out,and smoked all the time like a factory chimney.
>You dont say whether the engine will turn in cold weather,and

Gentlemen;

I can't speak preceisely to the LR diesel, as I have a D90 (which is still in 
the delaer waiting in the arrival of a "tail shaft"), but I did own a 
Volkswagen Quantum Turbodiesel for about 7 years, during which time I logged 
about 100k miles.

I learned the hard way about the "glow-plugs", having spent several hours 
sitting in a parking lot trying to start the bugger, even after getting a 
jump.  After the second year of this happening (usually coincident with the 
first winter-like day), I started having the glow plugs changed every 
September.  Didn't have any problem after that.  Just figured that instead of 
doing tuneups every 12k miles, I had to change those plugs once per year.  It 
was better to spend the approx $US 250 to have a mechanic do it (VW had the 
terrible habbit of putting these plugs behind the injector pump, out of 
reach!) than to be stranded somewhere.

------------------------------

Subject: RE: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest
From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore)
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 95 12:01:02 -0500

>>From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
>Subject: Re: Need help with 2.25 Diesel: smoking when idle
>Date: Mon, 30 Oct 95 11:05:32 GMT

>....Also,a good lorry drivers tip,given to me by innumerable truckers
>when I first got my Oily Wadder was "Keep the fuel tank WELL full
>in cold weather,to prevent fuel waxing".If the fuel waxes up it
>*wont* start.

Another trick is to add about 1 gal of kerosene per every 15 gal of diesel.  
This will prevent the waxing (or gel'ing) of the diesel by lowering its 
freezing point, kerosene being the Artic substitute for diesel!

>Check the condition of the air cleaner.Diesels need *loads* of
>air,and a clogged air cleaner doesnt help.Just take the large
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
>to get the ones you have cleaned and set up,by a competant diesel
>place.All the specs are in the Genuine Parts manual.

agreed - I learned by ignorance that my neglect of the fuel filter contributed 
directly to glow plug failure - the crud was being sprayed out the injector, 
and causing the plug to short!

>Like you,ny distributor pump has no adjustment left clockwise.I'm
>very much afraid that this is a result of the skew gear being worn.
>Although you *could* try a new timing chain,it cant hurt.

Can't speak to adjusting the pump - that kind of stuff has too many negative 
implications of done wrong, and my luck was never that consistently good 
(until I got my Land Rover!)

Good Luck-

Bill Skidmore

------------------------------

From: Guydell@aol.com
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 12:07:32 -0500
Subject: RE: Heater vents/controls '90 RR

I have the same problem with lack of hot air flow through the fascia vents in
my 90 RR County.  Seems like an unusual feature!  Also, my fan does not blow
at the intermediate speed and the dealer diagnosed it as a defective resistor
pack (which is under the cowl panel according to the shop manual, I think?).
 I am getting ready to pull apart the dash to attempt a fix of one or more
problems.  Does anyone have experience under a 90 RR dash?  The RR shop
manual is pretty nebulous about these matters. 

Regards,
Guy della-Cioppa
90 RR County (Beluga black)
66 VW Camper
50 Plymouth P-19 fastback
(and two other insignificant daily drivers)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 95 11:17:49 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Re: 109.....

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Re: 109.....
Thanks Alan,

I'm sure that it's because of the load and the mountains. I "normally" get
around 17mpg or so. It is a webber single barrel. Kind of hard to check it
with any accuracy, the speedometer is broken. :( It is also calibrated in
kilometers/hour, and I live in the world of "miles/hour".

I'd like to try the webber 2-barrel sometime. Might give a bit more power??
Have you heard from anyone with a 2bbl?

Thanks, Dave Brown

?? Anyone have a speedometer they'd like to part with?? (Series IIa)
_______________________________________________________
-------------------------------------------------------
Will take metric or american. Working or not.

#=======#          ________           We make a living by what we get,
|__|__|__\___     /__/__|__\___        we make a life by what we give.
| _|  |   |_ |}   \_/-\_|__/-\_|}
"(_)""""""(_)"      (_)    (_)                       Winston Churchill
*** Forwarding note from MAILER  --PABVMSYS 10/31/95 10:04 ***
=========================================================================
From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 31 Oct 95 11:52:34 EST
Subject: Re: 109.....
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: Text/Plain

What kind of a carburetor do you have on your 109? This sounds suspiciously
like the behavior of a Rochester... especially the 6MPG part. They are rather
hoggish on gas....

If you have occasion to do more of this, might I suggest a Weber? Might be
worth it just to keep your wallet rom bleeding to death...8*)

     Alan

------------------------------

From: Sanna@aol.com
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 13:24:30 -0500
Subject: Fwd: Re: Heater vents/controls '90 RR

---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    Re: Heater vents/controls '90 RR
Date:    95-10-31 11:09:06 EST
From:    Sanna

Steve - After I got my '89, it took me about two years to get used to the
Rover's ventilation system.  To truely understand it's functions you must
begint by throwing out all of your experience with logical American auto
heaters.  Remember, the Range Rover's heating and cooling works are brought
to you by the same people who drive on the wrong side of the road, call the
trunk a hood, drink warm beer, and developed the logic behind the English
system of weights and measures (12 inches = 1 foot, 3 feet = 1 yard, 5 1/2
yards = 1 rod, 40 rods = 1 furlong, 8 furlongs = 1 mile, & 3 miles = 1
league.  However, 6 feet = 1 fathom, 120 fathoms = 1 cable, 8 1/2 cables = 1
nautical mile, & 3 nautical miles = 1 marine league.  But, 7.92 inches = 1
link, 25 links = 1 rod, 4 rods = 1 chain, 10 chains = 1 furlong, 8 furlongs =
1 mile, & 1 square mile = 1 section.  I won't even begin to explain cords,
bushels, firkins, barrels, hogsheads, pecks, carats, pennyweights, ounces
(troy & avoirdupois), pounds, drams, grains, scruples, tons (short & long),
short hundred weights (hint: it's 100 pounds), quires, bundles and reams,
dozens (let's not forget baker's), gross and scores, stones, loads,
atmospheres, degrees ( F), and the British monetary system.

So, back to your heater.  Actually, I should say ventlating systemS, because
there are actually three of them in your Rover.  First there is the vertical
lever on the left.  It opens & closes the fresh air intake only.  There's
left bottom horizontal slider. This is either refrigerated air through the
dash vents only, refrigerated air through the dash vents along with heated
air through the defroster/heater (this is to dehumidify and heat the car at
the same time), "normally" heated fresh air through the defroster/heater, or
recirculated air through the defroster/heater.  The dash vents only blow A/C
(quite well, I might add), or rammed fresh air.  

If your Rover turns into a fog machine on wet days, it is probably the fault
of a failed or disconected solenoid.  It's screwed to the left side of the
heater box (it has 2 vacumn tubes & 2 wires to it), and is accessed by
dropping the hush panels under the steering wheel and the side panel by your
right leg.  When this fails or is somehow disconected, the system defaults to
the recirc mode and produces "INSTANT FOG" on cold or wet days.

Quiz on Friday.

Tony

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date: 31 Oct 95 13:47:55 EST
Subject: Bogus idle when cold - any hints?

My 109 has an odd problem when started on a cold(er) morning. With the choke, 
er, cold start control pulled to close the butterfly and kick up the idle it 
starts fine, but after idling a few minutes, it seems to load up with gas and 
stall.

Subsequent restarts exhibit the same behaviour until the engine is well and 
truly warmed up. As I am one of those types who believe in warming up a car in 
the winter without babysitting it, I don't like this. Any suggestions as to a 
cure (other than yanking the Weber and putting on a heater-equipped Zenith)?

     -Alan

------------------------------

From: KKelly6788@aol.com
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 14:38:39 -0500
Subject: Land Rover Name in North America

As a 10 year plus member of the BMW Car Club of America (#50039) I know what
BMW/Land Rover is doing in North America with the Land Rover name.

About 9 years ago BMW got real aggressive with protecting their name in North
America.  The formal company line was that they did not want consumers to
confuse a non-authorized BMW dealer, repair facility, parts source with one
of the authorized BMW of North America dealers.

This was a pain for the many people that had to change the name of their
business, but it was not a big deal for the typical BMW owner.  Some examples
of what BMWNA forced people to do by threatening litigation are:

The BMWCCA became the BMWspaceCCA
The BMW CCA had to remove the BMW Roundel from the cover of its magazine
Many of the local club chapters had to change their logos and newsletter
names
"Berkeley BMW Salvage" had to change its name to "Berkeley Salvage"
specializing in BMW's

These are just a couple of examples I personally remember, there were
hundreds more.  

Kevin Kelly

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 14:54:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Re: Bogus idle when cold - any hints?

Alan,
> My 109 has an odd problem when started on a cold(er) morning. With the choke, 
> er, cold start control pulled to close the butterfly and kick up the idle it 
> starts fine, but after idling a few minutes, it seems to load up with gas and 
> stall.

    Done exactly as you describe it, this is what I'd expect.

> Subsequent restarts exhibit the same behaviour until the engine is well and 
> truly warmed up. As I am one of those types who believe in warming up a car in 
> the winter without babysitting it, I don't like this. Any suggestions as to a 
> cure (other than yanking the Weber and putting on a heater-equipped Zenith)?

    What you want is an automatic choke!

    There is an optimum position of the choke for any given engine
    temperature.  When the engine is stone cold on a really cold
    morning, that position is pretty much closed.  When the engine is
    fully warmed up, that positiion is fully open.  As the engine is in
    between those extremes, so too does the optimum choke position
    change.

    If you just leave your choke full on, then the engine doesn't have
    to warm up very much (not even registering on the scale, perhaps)
    before that choke position is WAYYYY too rich.  SO it loads up with
    gas and stalls.  But taking the choke off too soon leaves the
    mixture too lean...which might actually be OK at idle, but it's
    generally not going to idle fast enough before it's warm.  (See
    previous thread about hand throttles for one solution to this
    problem!)

    So if you truly want a vehicle you can start and leave alone in the
    driveway for minutes while it warms up, you need something with an
    automatic choke...which I've never seen for a Series Rover (short of
    a Chevy V-6 or Rover V-8 conversion!)  It's probably worth pointing
    out here that warming a vehicle up like that wastes gas, pollutes
    the environment needlessly, etc.  Half a minute or less of warmup
    and attentive adjustment of the choke as the vehicle warms up while
    you drive it down the road is the "best" approach.

    (If I totally misunderstood what you were saying, you already know
    how chokes work, and you find the preceding patronizing, please
    forgive me!)

    Duncan

------------------------------

From: rob_hooper@om.cv.hp.com
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 95 11:04:12 -0800
Subject: Solex Carb Throttle Shaft "Bushings"

TO: lro@Land-Rover.team.net

.......................................................................

Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
     Inital submission bounced - once more

______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Solex Carb Throttle Shaft "Bushings"
Author:  Rob Hooper at HP-Corvallis,om1
Date:    10/31/95 8:56 AM

     >From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com> 
     >Subject: Throttle shaft bushing?
     
     >Does any one know a U.S. company that can put bushings in the 
     >throttle shaft 
     >holes for a Solex to bring the holes back into spec?
     
     >I'm ready to trade the rochester for the original stock carb, but the 
     >throttle 
     >holes are worn on both Solex carbs that I have. 
     
     >TeriAnn
     
     I did a homebrew fix (OK it's not totally a SPOT) that has been 
     working quite well now for 7 years. You can try this at your own risk 
     - I had 2 backup lower bodies in case I botched one up. Or you can go 
     to professional shop. I have heard of the teflon bushes but teflon 
     cold flows and you end up with a wobbling shaft after time. Teflon's  
     surface is soft that enable dust/dirt to imbed and wear your shaft. 
     There are some other materials that would be better like sintered 
     brass and some of the new DuPont engineering plastics used in bushes. 
     Not going to give all my SPOTS away!;-)
     
     I'm sorry I don't have all the dimensional data with me for this but 
     this should explain it enough to make sense. I took the original, i.e. 
     replacement steel shaft that comes in the overhaul kit, went down to 
     my local hobby shop and found the precision brass tubes used for model 
     making that would fit snugly but not binding over the shaft. I got the 
     closest drill (within 0.002 inches oversize and not a bit undersized) 
     to the OD of the tube. If you have access to an adjustable reemer 'tis 
     better. Measured the depth (or length) of the bearing surfaces needed 
     for both sides of the carb. Cut the 2 pieces of tubing about 0.25" 
     (1/4") longer than needed. Use a Dremel motor tool with an abrasive 
     cutoff wheel or a fine toothed model maker's saw to cut to length. 
     Make sure that you deburr the inside of the end that will be pressed 
     into the lower body.
     Check using the new shaft! In my case the wear on the lower body was 
     not quite enough to drop these new bushing in so I used a drill press 
     (make sure the table is square to the spindle)to do the following:
     
     1) Carefully clamp the lower body in the drill press vise (machinist 
     vise) and plumb things up. You can use the throttle shaft to assist. 
     You can "eyeball" vertical or use a dial indicator (or a good triangle 
     or square for truing up all axis. That should get you close enough or 
     within a mil (0.001") or two.
     
     2) Using the drill point (better yet is a counter sink) align the 
     center of the hole under the spindle.  That is bring the spindle down 
     on the hole and turn by hand until it is lined up. Clamp the vise to 
     the table once located.
     
     3) DON"T FORGET YOU SAFETY GLASSES HERE! I ran the drill press at a 
     medium speed (about 800-1000 rpm) and proceeded to bring the spundle 
     down slowly, using some lubricant on the bit or reemer to keep it from 
     binding and chattering. Pot metal is soft and it can easily bindup and 
     trash you lower body. That's why you clamp the vise down to the table 
     besides it's safer that way. 
     
     You will need to get some Loctite penetrating thread locking compound 
     and ACTIVTOR. NAPA has that and I think it was Loctite 490. You need 
     the activtor as these metal (brass and pot metal need a little help in 
     setting up the bond). Keep all this stuff from the inside of the 
     bushes and shaft. Follow the directions from Loctite and apply 
     activator to the bore of the lower body and the outside of the new 
     bushes - "q-tips" work great. BTW clean the surfaces throughly (no oil 
     or gunk) and you could Scotchbrite (green pad) the outer surface of 
     the bush to remove the oxidation if they're not bright. 
     
     After the holes have been bored, using the OLD shaft with a nut and 
     *tight* fitting washer, push or LIGHTLY tap the new bushes into the 
     body. Do not drive the bushes flush to the inside bore! Leave about 
     0.020" from the inside of the bore - you don't want to have any 
     interference with the throttle plate! Now using your new shaft unless 
     you old shaft is in good shape like mine was, insert it into the new 
     bushings to line them up. Now VERY  CAREFULLY apply a small amount of 
     the thread locking compound to the outer surface of the bushes - 
     that's why the minimum of 1/4" longer was needed - to help guide the 
     adhesive to the right place. I found that a diabetics syringe works 
     well for this use you Dremel or sharpening stone to get rid of the 
     sharp injection point - be careful!!  
     
     Let this sit overnight, You can remove the shaft after several hours 
     but I would carefully test periodically to make sure you didn't bond 
     the shaft! Then carefully file the bush that is still sticking out 
     flush to the surface. Use a sharp, fine mill bastard file, not a good 
     place for the Dremel! Use a countersink drill or hand reemer to deburr 
     the end just filed. Go slow as one can easily distort the tube making 
     a mess of things. You might have to work at getting the shaft to 
     freely (not wobbling) rotate. I used my an old, worn shaft with some 
     fine lapping compound to get it just perfect. I reassembled using a 
     synthetic teflon loaded grease. The shaft is still tight (<0.001 inch 
     radial free play - wobble) after 7 years. 
     
     BTW I am looking for a 28mm Solex choke tube (carb venturi) which was 
     used on some Solex carbs. The standard on the IIA's w/7:1 heads seemed 
     to be 26mm - that dimension is the middle number of the three that you 
     see as you look down the carb. I had a 28mm on an older III I had 
     converted to Solex and it really helped performance and mileage. My 
     next GOT (good owner trick) is to re-machine my existing tube to open 
     it up and maintain the venturi curve contours.  Also am looking for a 
     117.5 and 115 main jets for the Solex (that's the 7-11K ft altitude 
     jets) and a couple of the long screws that hold the starter body (with 
     heater element) to the lower body. Drop me a note if you have any of 
     these you might be willing to part with from your parts inventory (ie 
     the "hellbox").
     
     Cheers, Rob Hooper

------------------------------

From: K Schmidt <s20845@hp.rmc.ca>
Subject: LR sighting in Nov Motor Trend
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 95 16:05:50 EST

For those who are in Noth America you should like this really cool picture...
In the Nov issue of Motor Trend p149 there is a champion spark plug ad with
a early series II LR slugging along in mud up to it's bumper.  :) The LR has two
jerry cans on it's bumper and has a canvas hood.

Kurt

Happy Halloween :~}

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 16:22:42 -0500 (EST)
From: "Francis J. Twarog" <ftwarog@moose.uvm.edu>
Subject: Ramblings

First - to Raoul Miller in Middlebury - those 3 110s you saw in Vermont 
etc. are all the same car!  It was owned by a guy in New Hampshire (since 
new, I think) and sold in order to buy his new Def. 90 - a light blue 
County model that used to run around Nantucket by summer and Rover 
rallies the rest of the year.

Next - anyone near Burlington,Vt that wants to join a couple of Rovers 
for some off roading this Thursday, please give me a call... (802) 864 - 
0936.  I think we'll either head out to Eagle's Ledge or maybe a trip 
further north...

Last - TRIVIA!! Come and join the fun!! (thanks, Dixon, for making the 
only attempt to yesterday's).  Anyway, today I have a few easy ones... 
First, on which side of the vehicle *should* the LR oval appear (in the 
rear) on a UK Landie?  a US one?  Australian?
Next, what was the code name for North American spec Range Rovers in 
1987? 1989?

Frank Twarog
Burlington, VT

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 13:55:15 -0800
From: Doug.Forehand@Eng.Sun.COM (Douglas W. Forehand)
Subject: Re: 110's

Speaking of Defender 110's for sale.

I saw an add for one in this past weeks AutoWeek mag.
I called up the dealer heres what they said:

 1993 Defender 110
 ~28,000 miles

  $44,500.00  

Just how bad do you want one ?

He seemed a bit miffed when I laughed at the price.

Perhaps someone in the southern New Jersey area could
drop by the dealer and let us know what kind of condition
a 110 needs to be in to warrant that asking price.

 Cherry Hill Imports  (New Jersey)
  Phone number - 609-665-5370

Enjoy
Doug

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 16:56:38 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Ramblings

On Tue, 31 Oct 1995, Francis J. Twarog wrote:

> Last - TRIVIA!! Come and join the fun!! (thanks, Dixon, for making the 
> only attempt to yesterday's).  Anyway, today I have a few easy ones... 
> First, on which side of the vehicle *should* the LR oval appear (in the 
> rear) on a UK Landie?  a US one?  Australian?

	UK 	=	Left
	Canada	=	Right

	Basically, on the passenger side because the license plate goes
	on the drivers side, putting it out in traffic where the local
	constabulary can see it better.  Maybe the UK has regs for the
	placement of the front plate, but over here they appear every
	where in the front.  Have seen them on left & right wings, on
	the grille, and various places on & above the front bumper.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 17:31:59 -0500 (EST)
From: Jon Humphrey <jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Ramblings

Frank wants to know;

 
Last - TRIVIA!! Come and join the fun!! (thanks, Dixon, for making the 
only attempt to yesterday's).  Anyway, today I have a few easy ones... 
First, on which side of the vehicle *should* the LR oval appear (in the 
rear) on a UK Landie?  a US one?  Australian?
Next, what was the code name for North American spec Range Rovers in 
1987? 1989?

Ovals on UK LR is on the left.
Ovals on US LR is on the right
Ovals on Austr.is on your forehead.

87-89 RR were called Vogues

Howzat?
Jon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 15:21:51 -0800 (PST)
From: John Brabyn <brabyn@skivs.ski.org>
Subject: RE: Heater vents/controls '90 RR

On Tue, 31 Oct 1995 Guydell@aol.com wrote:

> I have the same problem with lack of hot air flow through the fascia vents in
> my 90 RR County.  Seems like an unusual feature!  Also, my fan does not blow
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
> problems.  Does anyone have experience under a 90 RR dash?  The RR shop
> manual is pretty nebulous about these matters. 

I've torn my 89 dash apart and it's pretty straightforward but tedious. 
In the initial step you remove the vents (pop out from top or bottom) and 
the clock and mirror control. The clock is very stubborn and requires a 
bit of patience and brute force. That exposes all the screws and every 
layer you remove exposes more screws. Good luck!

Cheers

John Brabyn
89 RR

------------------------------

From: JCassidyiv@aol.com
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 18:24:44 -0500
Subject: Old Man EMU springs

Just received my set of Old Man EMU springs from Rover's North for my 1987
RR.  They were $70/each.  I got a set of #757 for the front and #758 for the
rear.  These, along with the polyurethane bushings, and the new shocks,
should make all the difference.  I'll let you all know.
Cheers!  John

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Subject: Camel Trophy '95 Video
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 15:08:50 -0800

I just saw the CT95 video on ESPN2 today (I played hookey this morning to see
it).  What fun! They covered the tryouts in Colorado this February to the Mundo 

Maya this summer.  I was a bit disappointed they didn't show the manual
vertical hoisting of a Disco from a ditch but overall it was pretty good
coverage.

As an added bonus, LRNA ran sevaral Disco ads:
	the elephant car wash
	carrying your offspring (which is pretty funny)
	CT mud splash/"I have to go potty"

That makes tape # 2 in my Discovery video library.

    _____
   /___|_\___     Bob Watson <a-robw@microsoft.com>
  |   |   |  \                  6405 235th Place SW
  |---|___|___\____     Mountlake Terrace, WA 98043
  |  _|   |   | _  }\
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/

\_/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 19:43:34 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Off-topic I know, but terrific news!

	Premier Parizeau, leader of the seperatist Parti Quebecois 
	has resigned! Good riddance...

	Oh yeah, compulsory LR content.  Chopped off a plough harness for
	the 109 Sunday off one of my 88's.  Generator uses a double pully
	arrangement so the hydraulic pump works.  Now to repair lower
	portion of the harness and figure out how to keep it from 
	moving around too much (It had been welded on.  The blue wrench
	solved this aspect of the problem)

------------------------------

From: "Craig R. Jett" <cjett@voicenet.com>
Subject: RE: 110's
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 19:43:05 -0500

clip

Speaking of Defender 110's for sale.
I saw an add for one in this past weeks AutoWeek mag.
I called up the dealer heres what they said:
 1993 Defender 110
 ~28,000 miles
  $44,500.00 
Just how bad do you want one ?
He seemed a bit miffed when I laughed at the price.
Cherry Hill Imports  (New Jersey)
  Phone number - 609-665-5370
Enjoy
Doug
unclip

I've test driven this 110.  It's in perfect shape, Never off road, if =
you can believe. They've had it at least 10 months, just sitting there =
on the lot, such a waste.  Anyway, they were asking $48,000 for it then. =
 Don't feel bad Doug, I laughed also.  Maybe if we wait another 10 years =
the price might be right.

Craig Jett
95 Disco

------------------------------

From: Julianbak@eworld.com
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 19:07:24 -0800
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

I am not sure that Land Rover has abandoned the US Series LR market
altogether - even before they re-entered the US market they established a
close relationship with Rovers North - as I understand it - just to support
series LR owners.

Julian Baker, '66 series 11A 88
----------------------------- Begin Original Text
-----------------------------

The company (Land Rover/BMW) attitude to the use of the name seems to be 
hardening.
----------------------------- End Original Text -----------------------------

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: tyres, disco woes 
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 14:23:41 +1100 (EDT)

Hi all,
Reading these posts concerning tyre sizes prompts me to type...
I offer a little info on what the tyre sizes actually mean.
The various manufacturers tend to label the real thing somewhat loosely, 
so for example some 7.50 16 s are larger in rolling diameter than others...
Anyhow, one ROUGH idea coming right up:

Sizes of the form 7.50 16, 7.00 16, 8.25x16, 750R16, 10.50 20 etc.
First number is the tyre tread width in inches, the second is the rim 
diameter suited to the tyre. The overall height of the tyre can be simply 
arrived at, as the "profile" of this type of tyre is normally 100% 
(sidewall is as high as tread is wide).
Overall rolling diameter= 2X(first number) + (second number)
eg. A 7.50 16 SAT is approximately (2X7.5) + 16 = 31" tall (actually 
closer to 32" but you were warned). 

Some tyres come with the sizes simply stated in inch measures: 33X12.5X15,
9X34X16LT etc. 

Still others come in the dreaded Metric (ish) measures such as 225 75 16 
or 235 85 16... The first number is the tread width in millimetres, the 
second is the profile (percentage), and the third is the rim diameter 
(inches). Now the profile number is simply an expression of how high a 
tyre's sidewall is as a percentage of its tread width. This means that a 
235 85 16, for example, has a 235mm tread width, and a sidewall which is 
85% as high as the tread is wide (0.85X235=199.75mm).

Now cos I speyk um betta sumtimz, inches: 235mm=9.25" and 199.75mm=7.86" (or 
so), and by the same reasoning as above, overall rolling diameter is: 
2X7.86 +16 =31.73"
So in reality a 235 85 is near as dammit to a 9X32X16, and a 7.50 is just 
a bit skinnier and depending who makes it, possibly smaller diameter.

In all of the above, letters are often mixed to and fro:
R-Radial ply construction.
LT-Light Truck.

7.50 16 type sizes are usually bias ply (rag) tyres unless there appears 
an R in these somewhere.

Tyres usually have a "Ply Rating" moulded somewhere into them also. This 
is not necessarily the number of plys used, but an equivalent load rating.
This number gives an idea of sidewall stiffness and durability: too stiff 
may never get spiked, but will ride like a series LR :) and be next to 
useless to "air down", too weak and sidewalls will develop bubble like 
lumps after impacts with logs or rocks, and spike all too easily.

I'll try to dig out the recommended rim widths for various common tyres 
if people are interested....
Trivia: Silverstone make a thing called an MT117 in 235 85 16 !! 
Might just be the replacement for my Super Swampers...wassat 34X11 ish :)
Tread is like an SAT, but one zigzag down the middle, then herring bone.
Tread depth at shallowest point is in the order of 20mm (3/4"). Handling 
is supposed to be MUCH better than SS on road, and as capable as 9X34X16 
SS offroad.... This is second hand, I am yet to see or drive a set. I 
have a faxed picture and the first set is around on a LC I think, others to 
follow (new import line for the local Silverstone wing).
Small drawback: WILL NOT fit in a standard Disco wheel arch.... oh well, 
I don't own one anyway, and my RR is,  well,  modified anyway.

To the guy with the Disco stalling woes in humid weather, check and clean 
the contact areas of all the fuses and fusible links you can lay eyes on, 
and ensure that the inside of fuseboxes is dry... maybe a pack of silica 
gel or some other dessicant. This should help to prevent contact 
corrosion in humid conditions. I know that glass fuses often suffer like 
this, as do the silly little ceramic ones with conical pads at each end- 
I think these are Joe's pride and joy! Blade type fuses should be less 
prone, as the mechanical contact is the same as a traditional spade lug. 
Still, easy to check and if need be fix. EFI computer if you have one, is 
another good place to look for dirty contacts- in fact the whole efi system.

Just Ideas,
Good Luck!
Brian.
77 RR

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 22:28:12 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Missing rovers

Set the VCR to record the ESPN Camel Trophy thing today, but got ice hockey 
and mountain biking instead.  Was it on ESPN-2?

Checked out the November issues of "Four Wheeler" and "Off Road" for the 
rhino-chasing-Rover calendar, but couldn't find it in either.  Is it a 
pull-out??...maybe they had already been nicked by the time I got there.

The Rovers advertised from the Big Sky company should remain *missing*.  (I 
used his tape to record -or try to- the Camel Trophy.)  Reviewed it just 
before erasing it...just bombed, burnt-out, shot-up and tank-trashed hulks, 
not one of which was considered to be driveable.  Might be able to build one 
out of three or so, as long as one didn't mind the extra ventialtion 
provided by all the .50 cal bullet holes.  Caveat emptor!
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 19:30:02 -0800 (PST)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: 7500 warranty

I've read here on the List that the 15,000 service runs about US$250.  
Since the LRNA and its dealerships are in business to make money, you can 
bet that the cheap 7500 mile service is a one-shot deal.  What you might 
consider is changing your oil at mid points between services.  If you 
don't do this yourself, you can go to one of the while-you-wait places, 
but be prepared to have to bring an oil and/or air filter from the dealer 
with you.  This turns out to be a rip-off (about $35 for both of them), 
but the oil-changer places around here don't know from newer Land Rovers, 
so the dealers have us by the giblets on these.

Cheers!
John
'95 Discovery
San Francisco, California

On 31 Oct 1995, Treit Le wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> I called up 3 dealers in my area and found that the 7500 mile service on a '95 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 8 lines)]
> Classic runs $45-54. Are all the services subsidized and equally cheap? Can you 
> have multiple 7500 mile services? Like every 3,000 miles for instance?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 22:58:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

On Tue, 31 Oct 1995 Julianbak@eworld.com wrote:

> I am not sure that Land Rover has abandoned the US Series LR market
> altogether - even before they re-entered the US market they established a
> close relationship with Rovers North - as I understand it - just to support
> series LR owners.

	They dumped NA like a hot potato in '74.  For years it was almost
	impossible to get parts or suppport.  Their abandonment of NA
	lead to the initial creation of many of the older Land Rover clubs,
	just to keep their vehicles on the road, and the creation of ABP
	first in NY, then in Quebec and California to supply aftermarket
	parts to Land Rover owners.  RN is a much newer company than
	many clubs etc, but were the first to strike up a relationship
	with LR(UK) for Series parts

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 19:59:11 -0800 (PST)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Camel Trophy '95 Video

Any chance of getting a copy of the tape, Bob?  We don't get ESPN-2 in my 
village of 6 million (San Francisco Bay Area).  I'll of course pay for 
tape, shipping & handling, etc.

Much obliged,
John
'95 Discovery

On Tue, 31 Oct 1995, Robert Watson (CNA) wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> I just saw the CT95 video on ESPN2 today (I played hookey this morning to see
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 31 lines)]
>     \_/        \_/
> \_/

------------------------------

From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: High mileage. Is it a problem ?
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 1995 14:51:10 +1030 (CST)

Doug asks:

> 1.) One of the 110s I'm looking at has a pretty high mileage. 240000kms
> (150,000 miles). Its a 1985 model Thats pretty high in 10 years. I'm
wondering if the whole truck is about to expire in a fury of nasty
noises ! Its does seem  in good condition, just lots of miles.

Well i'd sorta hoped someone else would deal with this one but...
1. I dont think 24K km per year is a lot for a 4x4 in australia, a little
more than average but not a lot.  Our 12/82 built stage 1 has close to 400K (
maybe more the speedo didnt work for a year or so)

As to problems  well the cam/lifters/rocker gear is likely to be hosed, ours
certainly is and I'd expect that the transfer case would need re-shimming.
Motors typically go past 300K but it depends a lot on maintainance and what
you are prepared to put up with in the way of rattles and fuel consumption,
my stage 1 is pushing to break 15  mpg, a friend with a recon exchange
motor (~$2K) figures on 19-21 mpg. 

> A friend has a 30 year old IIa 109 thats only done 116000 miles, and
> they've used it pretty heavily.  

Its only just run in doug.......:)

> Whats the expected lifetime of such things as diffs, gearbox and
> engine (V8) if we assume they've been adequately maintained ?

V8's common;ly mid 300's but.... Ymmv  as low as high 100's and as high as
900K are reports i've heard.

The salisbury diff will likely go forever provided that it gets an oil change
occasionally and doesnt ingest water.  the rover diff  dont really know
depends on use/abuse..  maybe 3-500K????   second hand or recon units
shouldnt be too hard to find.

the g/box and transfer   variable, heard of problems within 150K, also know
of others well into 500's with only re-shimming of the transfers... 
 
Your best bet would be to get a reputable rover specialist check out the
vehicle.   Having not owned a 110 I dont know all of the problem areas.

> 2). I'm seriously considering getting a Range Rover instead. Nobody wants to
> sell me a 110 at what I consider to be a reasonable price. They all
> want nearly AUS$20k. I'd prefer to spend closer to $15k.

Wouldnt we all!   market forces at work I'm afraid.   1109 prices just keep
going up....:-(

cheers
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 21:17:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael Slade <slade@teleport.com>
Subject: Diesel advice sought

Dear list,

Sandy mentioned a diesel 109 for sale in his area, and since I have 
absolutely no experience w/diesel land rovers I thought I'd solicit the 
experince of the list at large.

I grew up with tractors and learned to drive a Kubota diesel and only 
have those mainly farm tractor diesel experiences to go on.

So, any pros?  Cons?  Things to consider?  Things to avoid/look for?

Is a decent diesel engine strong enough to push around the mass of a 
laden 109?

This post is pretty wide open in the scope of questions posed, but I'm 
looking for basically any information members might be willing to share.

Thanking everyone in advance,

Michael

slade@teleport.COM  Public Access User -- Not affiliated with Teleport
Public Access UNIX and Internet at (503) 220-1016 (2400-28800, N81)

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 37 lines 1725 [forwarded 168 whitespace 409]
 Output: lines 1433 [content 904  forwarded 93 (cut  75) whitespace 380]

	
    Forward
	


	
    
          
	



Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.