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Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 21:45:13 +1300
From: jawa@i-max.co.nz (Leonard John Hobart)
Subject: handy hint?

Here is a handy hint I discovered today. I had some dry sand, gravel, and
road dirt, in the outrigger that supports the front of the rear spring. If
or when this stuff gets damp, it holds the moisture against the inside of
the chassis.  The end of this outrigger has a gap for some reason in the end
plate. I scraped out what I could with a long screwdriver, but there was
obviously some debris still in there.  I hit open the idea of useing the
vacume cleaner. I attached a couple of feet (500 mm) of 1/2" garden hose to
the end of the vacume hose wth duct tape, made sure it was air tight, and
had a mini size cleaner hose that fitted through the gape and cleaned out
all the crap. any stones and stuff too big for the hose stuck on the end and
could be pulled out. I intend to pour some waxoyl or fishoilene down the
outrigger. 
regards John

"well it's a beautiful morning this morning, the sun's shining right up my
back passage"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 02:10:32 -0700
From: Roger Sinasohn <sinasohn@crl.com>
Subject: Re: re:Consumer Reports on Discovery

> As with any data provided, evaluate them from your own point of
> view and relative importance. As you test-drive these vehicles
> (and note that most of the comments were comfort related) figure
> out which one brings a big grin to your face.

Exactly.  Consumer reports caters to the average nitwit on the street who 
wouldn't know a quality vehicle from a hole in the ground.  (Can you tell I 
don't really care for 'muricans?)  If you want something to drive around in, 
and haul the kids to soccer practice, get a 4runner or something.  If you 
want a serious vehicle that will last forever, get a Disco.

I'll be the first to admit that if I could, my LR wouldn't be my only car.  I 
definitely need something more practical for commuting and around town.  So 
I'm looking for either an Electric Vehicle or a DeLorean.  But, given only 
one vehicle, I'll take my LR.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Uncle Roger                         "There is pleasure pure in being mad
sinasohn@crl.com                                that none but madmen know."
Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates
San Francisco, California

------------------------------

From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Metric Land Rovers
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 9:52:28 GMT

Point one,you may have noticed that my post was a *reply*.
Two,you do not state *why* you consider the SI system to
be an improvemment.
However,if you do *not* mean the SI system,but true metric,
if there is such a thing,I would point out that "archaic"
is better applied to the metric system than to imperial.
The Imperial System is Victorian in origin,later than metric.
It was introduced after a commitee of all interested parties
considered the problem,and had their say,more than can be
said for either metric system.It was then called the Imperial
System after Queen Victoria.
As for Europe,you have obviously found some advantages in the
setup.There must be thousands of people waiting to find the
same thing!
Suffice it to say,that one of the "advantages" I have found
with metrication,is that I have had to buy,separately,Whit
sockets to replace the metric ones in my set.And that replacement
bolts for the 11A are somewhat more difficult to obtain.And that
if this current evangelistic fervour continues,making it a
*criminal* act to sell Imperial,there are going to be a good

many series owners cursing the number ten!
One thing you(and the politicians)appear to conveniently forget,
is that when a different system of weights and measures is
introduced,for many years afterwards,there exists a stock of
buildings and artifacts which still use the previous system.
Simply scrapping these is not an option,particularly where
buildings are concerned,and the installations therein.
So costs go up.And who pays?Well,certainly not the clown who
advocates such a change.
Mike Rooth

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: The heating season
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 07:54:00 DST

As the time of year when we become thankful for that exhaust heat coming 
through the floor approaches, a couple of items for the heating system. 
Alexanders SIII heat control v alve wasn't working because the cable had 
seized and it hadn't moved for years. This weekend we replaced it with a 
handy inline valve from a VW Rabbit. The original valve and fittings were 
removed and replaced by a straight fitting and the new valve fitted in the 
hose close to the heater. The seized cable and cover was replaced by VW 
cable and nylon conduit. The only drawback to this arrangement is that the 
stroke of the control lever and stroke of the valve don"t match and the 
action is reversed.

While fitting the valve we also noticed that the VW heater matrix and the 
SIII matrix were very similar in size. The VW unit is about 1 inch longer, 
(er, sorry I mean about 25 mm longer ) with the connections in the same 
location. If you need a new or additional matrix this may provide a cheap 
source at the wreckers.

Trevor Easton, Grimsby, Ontario

Now we just have to hope Miss Golightly doesn't become jealous of the new 
family member.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Metrication
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 08:09:00 DST

To add to the metric debate. Canada choose to change the highways to Metric 
some years ago at great expense in road signs etc. The change did absolutely 
nothing but create work for those who were making the changes and confusion 
for those across the border who continued to use real miles (Even thought 
they use a short measure for the gallon, probably some merchant/ revolution/ 
War of 1812 thing). My belief is that the change was made also for the 
psychological effect on vehicle speeds. It seems much faster going 100 now 
than it did going 70 before. At least Miss Golightly can cruise at 90 in 
Canada (Just like Jory!)

Trevor Easton

------------------------------

From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 12:37:44 GMT
Subject: Did somebody (Mike?) flame me

Whilst reading one of the weekends digests it was mentioned that Mike flamed
my bit about Harriers, was this about my tongue in cheek comment about wheel
base accuracy or did I miss something funny.  In which case can somebody resend
it to me. Ta

Steve

------------------------------

From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 12:39:46 GMT
Subject: 101 Brakes

Hi there, are there any 101 people out there?  A friend has a 101 and he is
about to overhaul his brakes.  He has heard rumours that there are some
particular problems with bleeding these things.  Is this true or do you
do it in the same way as most vehicles?  Does anybody know the magic sequence
of sorting them?

I drove his 101 yesterday, they are a bit weird to drive aren't they!

Cheers, Steve.

------------------------------

From: Stephen Thomas <THOMSE-U@m4-arts.bham.ac.uk>
Date:         23 Oct 95 14:39:35 GMT
Subject:      Ser III instrument cluster

I put a SerIII temp/fuel/charge cluster in my IIA after the other set
of gauges all went, the main beam light was already duplicated in the
speedo (converted to diesel ages ago I believe)

My question is this. I want to move the charge light from the middle
of the dash above the light switch where it is now, down to the
SerIII cluster. However if I use the lamp holder which I have now it
will earth the light on to the dash, rather than down to the switch
on the alternator. Did the vehicles with this cluster fitted to them
have an isolated lamp holder too? (and I bet no-one has a part no.).
It's the only solution I can see.

By the way, is this what the SWB version of your 110 would look like
Dave? (Customised of course!)

    _______________________________
    [_[_[_[_[_[_[_[_[_[_[_[_[_[_[_]
  I-|~~~~~~~I~~~~~~~I~~~~-I--- ___I
  I |~~~~"~~~~~~~~~~~~I~~~~~~~~~~~\\                             /
  I-| ANDY THE LANDY  I     oo     \\                           /
  I | 0121 452 1405   I      Q    / \\    XXXXXXXXXX           /
  I-|_________________I__________/\__\\___XXXXXXXXXX___       /
  IC|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~II~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\     /
  IC| ==              I"~             II            == |D   /    R
  I |      ________   I               II  ________     |D  /    LA
  I-|     /        \  I               II /        \    |  /    NDR
    \_   /  _----_  \_I_______________II/  _----_  \   /W]    OVER
      ~~~ /~ /~~\ ~\ \I________________/ /~ /~~\ ~\ ~~~ []   LANDR
          | | () | |                     | | () | |        ROVERLA
          \_ \__/ _/    LANDROVERL       \_ \__/ _/  VERLANDROVERL
 ANDROVERL..~----~     LAVERLANDRDRO       ~----~ VERLANDROVERLAND
 ROVERLANDROVERLAN Courtesy : Dave Bobeck ROVERLANDROVERLANDROVERL

Steve

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Stephen Thomas                          Phone:0121-452 1405
                1964 Ser IIa Diesel 'Andy'
'Land Rovers let out all that gear oil to compensate for all the
rain water they let in'
----------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 07:46:36 -0700
From: russ burns <burns@cisco.com>
Subject: 90 R-Rover burns oil int #5 cylinder

One of my friends has a "new 1990 Range Rover, and it burns quite
a bit of oil in the # 5 cylinder. We noticed it when we changed 
plugs. all the other plugs are fine, but the #5 usally comes out 
oily. 
As we have checked the PVC crap, it looks like we are down to
leaky valve seals, or a stuck ring.

Any words of advice from the rest of the rover world.

Russ Burns
91 R-Rover
94 D-90

------------------------------

From: Tom Stevenson <gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk>
Subject: Metrication
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 17:26:19 +0100 (BST)

We now get whiskey in 50ml measures for the same price as the old
quarter gill (36ml) measures in our local. Every cloud has a silver
lining (or is Jaques Santer a whisky drinker?)
-- 
Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk
University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland
Tel:(01475) 530581  Fax:(01475) 530601

------------------------------

From: Guy Arnold <GUY@facade.adm.clarkson.edu>
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 13:05:08 EDT
Subject: Series Roof Rack

I picked up a roof rack for my 1973 Series III swb yesterday from the 
PO.He used to deal in LRs in the late 60's and early 70's and he said 
this rack was an optional  equipment sold by Land-Rover buy not made 
by them. The rack was made by a company called Eversure and made in 
England. What I was wondering is if they are still in business? Or if 
parts can be had for this rack? I am missing one of the rubber pads 
that the feet of rack rest in. They are white and about 2" in 
diameter and 1" thick with the top edge rounded off. There is hole in 
the top to receive  the foot of the support leg. If they are availble 
and 
there is a place near Portmouth that sells them, then my sister-in-
law could pick one up for me. She is back and forth accross the pond 
on a regular basis for her job so she could get it to me easily. 
Thanks in advance to anyone in England that can help me.

Guy Arnold 
1973 Series III "88" "Green Machine"
1960 MGA 1600 roadster

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 10:32:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Brake and Clutch pedal pins - alternatives?

I recently finished rebuilding the brake and clutch pedal assemblies on 
Mathilda (SIIA 109) but have not yet replaced the retaining pins that 
are driven through the spindles/shafts around which the pedals rotate.  
These are the small pins that supposedly retain the spindle in the 
pedal housing assembly.

It occurred to me that given the difficulty of removing these pins that 
cotter pins might be more useful.  Has anyone tried this before or can 
anyone see a reason why cotter pins (split pins) would be inappropriate 
at this location?  Would this be a stupid substitution?  The 
spindle/shafts seem like tight fits in the housing, and it doesn't 
appear that the retaining pins are actually subject to any significant 
force.

cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

From: lenagham@inetmail.bachman.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 12:52:19 EST
Subject: Re: shocker mounts

     Brian,
     
     the Range Rover shock mounting arrangement you described was still in 
     use on the Range Rovers imported into the US beginning in 1987. They 
     later went to an arrangment using a lock nut but I don't remember 
     when. 
     
     My workshop manual specifies that only one of the two holes (don't 
     remember which) is to be used for the split pin to retain the shock 
     absorber. The other hole is there for another purpose - but it doesn't 
     state what that purpose is!
     
     Sorry to hear about your engine problems.
     
     How is your EFI test bed coming along?
     
     Regards
     Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 10:38:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: Dormobile Propane Holder Rack Location?

Can any of the Dormobile owners (or timeshare holders :) ) out there 
tell me the location of the propane tank holder?  I'm wonder where this 

is located on the frame since I will probably be installing one while I 

have Mathilda down to the frame.

Thanks in advance

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: 23 Oct 95 14:16:47 EDT
From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Metric Land Rovers

What a lovely thread...

May I contribute the immortal words of CCP Chairman Deng Hsiao Ping, 
"never mind if the cat is black or white, as long as it catches mice".
IOW it's got to be practical, and it has to work - everything else is politics.
Anyway, all unit conversions from whatever to whatever, and unifications or
or the undoing of such, whether pro-EU, anti-EU, Schengen, Schmengen, or
bloody hell-knows-what, to the average citizen and consumer all of these have
so far only ever meant: Rise of costs, rise of prices, rise of contributions
and taxes. Taxes alleviated in one place are slapped back on tripple somewhere
else. Whenever governments and industries feel they've hit the ceiling with
tax and price increases beyond which they cannot go without seriously enraging
the public, they cook up some sort of unit conversion or system change.
The windfall must be tremendous, otherwise they wouldn't do it so often.

Does this have anything to do with Land Rovers? I think so, because with the
regulation frenzy the bureaucrats are working themselves into, the day may
not be far where it will be illegal to drive the kind of cars we do. In the
Americas and Oz this possibility might still be some time away, but in
Europe I can see it just around the corner. And I'm not speculating: Just
a few days ago a former school classmate of mine who is now head of the
designing department of Mercedes Benz told me that currently *80%* of
Mercedes' design and development efforts are going into small, ultra -
compact, ultra-light hightech city cars with milage averages of  59.6 mpg(US),
that's 4 l/100 km for the metric fans.
Surely they must be anticipating something...

Pint, anyone?  %-)

Stefan
<Stefan R. Jacob, 100043.2400@CompuServe.com>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 11:36:02 -0700
From: "TeriAnn Wakeman"  <twakeman@apple.com>
Subject: Re: Mailing list future <NOT NOISE>

In message <199510180026.TAA24298@butler.uk.stratus.com> Tom Des Jardins writes:
> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Have we considered becomming a news group? 

And you would have every yahoo in the world posting why his Tyota/jeep/whatever 
is better than a Land Rover and every person who ever considered a Rover, 
wheather they were in the market or not, asking about the specs and asking for a
comparison between a rover and car X.

Your quality of postings would probably go down 75%

TeriAnn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 14:49:55 EST
From: "Bobeck, David R." <dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Subject: Waxoyl

          Hello.
          Found a source for Waxoyl in the US, Triple C
          Motor Accesories, in Milpitas California. Their
          number is (408)492-5485. They supply it in a
          400ml. aerosol, $10.00, or a 2.5liter kit, $45,
          which includes a pump, sprayer and extension probe
    --------------------------------------------------------

           Sorry- Triple C has moved to Pennsylvania. All
          you Left Coasters don't need Waxoyl anyways.
          the new number is (717)854 4081.
          Cheers

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 15:30:52 EST
From: "Wharton, Skip" <wharton@mail.scra.org>
Subject: Progress?

        
        The only thread I can come up with here is that this list and the 
        following quote deal w/ vehicles... But I thought it was worth sharing:
        
        "If cars had progressed as quickly as computers in the last twenty 
        years, then a typical passenger automobile would get 200,000 miles to 
        the gallon, would be capable of carrying 450,000 tons of cargo, travel 
        at 870,000 miles per hour, cost $0.83 to buy, and would explode once a 
        week killing everyone inside..."
        
        My UK cousins should sit down now and figure this out in metric so the 
        humour won't be lost on their friends... :@) 
        
        Regards,
        
        Skip Wharton           wharton@scra.org
        From the Holy City of Charleston, SC, USA
        '72 Series IIA 88" (or whateverthehellcmthisequatestocauseidont'tcare)

------------------------------

From: "Hugh Grierson" <Hugh_Grierson@trimble.co.nz>
Date:          Tue, 24 Oct 1995 09:25:43 +1300
Subject:       Re: GPS accuracy

Malcolm R. Forbes writes:
> Trimble (1-800-481-8000) will send you a couple of great, understandable 
> books
> describing how GPS and Differential GPS work.  

Yep.  Good booklets.  I'll vouch for them :-).

-- 
Hugh Grierson   hugh_grierson@trimble.co.nz  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 17:13:38 -0400
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Subject: Rover prices in Africa

Hello, all. one of my roommates is planning to spend the next year in
Africa, somewhere in Tanzania or Kenya. I think I've managed to persuade
him that he needs a Landie, but I was wondering if anyone had an idea of
what prices/availability are in Africa for a serviceable IIA or III. Thanks
a lot,

                                                Braman Wing
                                                1966 88" petrol hardtop

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Subject: Disco Trailer Wiring
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 14:25:18 -0700

Attn: Trailer Pulling Discovery Owners....

Don't rush out and spend US $70 (or so) for the LR Trailer wiring harness if 
you are just going to pull a "flat-4 wire" trailer.  (L-Turn, R-Turn, Running & 
Ground). I just got a 5-Wire/4-wire converter and a "flat-4" harness and 
spliced it into the trailer adapter wires. Total Cost (including Wire Loom for 
exposed trailer wire: $25. It works like a champ and the connector hides under 
the bumper when not in use.

There are a bunch of other wires in the harness (9 in all) for such things as 
the reverse lights, Battery, fog lamps, etc. If anyone is interested, I could 
post the wire details (I don't have them at the moment or I would do it here.)

When I called a trailer place, I asked them what they would charge and they 
said, in addition to the $70 LR Trailer harness, they would need another $40 to 
add the 5-4 adapter. The only thing missing from the back of the rover is a 
decent place to hook the safety chains. The little diagonal brace bars are OK, 
but I was thinking of having a plate with holes mounted to the bottom of the 
receiver. Other than that the Disco pulls a 15' trailer quite nicely.

-- Bob W.

 __________________       _____
/   ____    ___    \     /___|_\___
|  |____|  |   |   |    |   |   |  \
|          |_  |   |    |---|___|___\____
|     ___  |   |   |    |  _|   |   | _  }\
\____/ _ \_|___|___|--+[|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|
      \_/                 \_/        \_/

'95 Beluga Black Discovery w/ trailer

Bob Watson <a-robw@microsoft.com>
6405 235th Place SW
Mountlake Terrace, WA 98043

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 19:08:45 -0500
From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)
Subject: Rally T-shirts

We've got some T-Shirts left over from the Mid-Atlantic Land Rover Rally.  
Five color image of a Camel Trophy 90 on grey cotton.  XL and a few XXL's.  
The price is $15 plus about $2.50 first class postage to the continental US. 
For overseas folk desirous of obtaining one, estimate postage for a 6 ounce 
letter and include that in with your cheque made out to R.O.A.V.  Send it to 
the address in the sig.block below.  Cheers
      *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
      |               A. P. (Sandy) Grice                   |
      |       Rover Owners' Association of Virginia         |
      |    1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
      |  E-mail: rover@pinn.net  Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day)  |
      |    804-423-4898 (Evenings)    FAX: 804-622-7056     |
      *-----------------------------------------------------*

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 20:17:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake and Clutch pedal pins - alternatives?

I have both pedal boxes off one of our Series II's because I'm rebuilding the
hydraulics. I can't see any reason why a cotter pin wouldn't work. No
significant forces are involved unless a pedal seizes on the shaft. Series
II/IIA brake (without booster) and clutch pedal  shafts have a plug (hex
head) in the end for lubricating the shaft.

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Subject: Disco Nerf Bars, etc.
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 14:40:52 -0700

I haven't tried this, yet, but on the Discovery, there's these plastic trim 
strips/step just below the doors on both sides that look like they could be 
removed and replaced with some bent diamond-plate steel or a big steel bar 
stock and make for some dandy rock sliders/nerf bar substitutes. Paint them 
black (or some other matching color) and only those "in the know" would even 
know you'd changed anything. (that and your body shop might lose some of your 
business. :-) Best of all, you wouldn't lose any ground clearance. The pieces 
are straight so there shouldn't be any fancy bending and you could either mount 
them to the body or have some frame mounts added (or both?!)

Has anyone else seen/tried/thought of anything similar? If not, I'm going to 
have to look into this further. After this weekend's campout/adventure, I 
really need something to protect those shiny black aluminum body panels.

    _____
   /___|_\___     Bob Watson <a-robw@microsoft.com>
  |   |   |  \                  6405 235th Place SW
  |---|___|___\____     Mountlake Terrace, WA 98043
  |  _|   |   | _  }\
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/

------------------------------

From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 20:52:01 -0400
Subject: Fasteners - Series One to Three only

For the winter season when you’re trying to figure out what strange thread
that little machine screw has which you need one more of.

British Association Screw Threads (B.A.)
Number    Diameter    Pitch     Width Across Flats
  0          6.0mm      1.00mm         0.413in
  2          4.7mm      0.81mm         0.324in
  4          3.6mm      0.66mm         0.248in
  6          2.8mm      0.53mm         0.193in
  8          2.2mm      0.43mm         0.152in
 10         1.7mm      0.35mm         0.117in
 12         1.3mm                           0.090in

The “Width Across Flats” for hex heads is also the outer diameter of
countersunk, round, and cheese head B.A. screws. A cheese head screw is one
with a cylindrical head.
Note on the mixed units: B.S.93:1919 defines the screw threads in metric
units.

There is now a source of Land Rover fasteners in England which claims to have
“all nuts, bolts, lockers, rivets and dollies from 1948-72”. I don’t have any
direct experience yet.
L. R. Fasteners
32 Laburnum Park
Bradshaw, Bolton, BL2 3BU
England
Tony Arnold: 01204-302589
A S.A.E. including your vehicle details is requested for a free parts list.

David Cockey

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 18:20:26 PDT
From: asmith@BayNetworks.COM (Andrew Smith)
Subject: Re: Disco Nerf Bars, etc.

> From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@microsoft.com>
> To: Land-Rover-Owner@uk.stratus.com
> Subject: Disco Nerf Bars, etc.
> Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 14:40:52 -0700

Bob,

Those strips seem *really* fragile - in my first camping trip last weekend
I don't remember how many times in 2 days I had to yell at people "don't step 
on those plastic steps that aren't steps!!!". I hadn't thought of them as body panel
protectors but a steel bar would work really well - those panels are kind of thin
aren't they? Even my 36-yr old Healey has stronger alloy panels than the Disco's.
Is there anything solid to mount to down there?

Do the LRNA running-boards replace these strips or do they mount underneath
(with corresponding loss of ground clearance)?

Andrew Smith
Palo Alto CA USA

'60 Healey 3000 Mk.I       |     Both shiney black, alloy bodied, gas guzzlers
'96 Discovery              |

> I haven't tried this, yet, but on the Discovery, there's these plastic trim 
> strips/step just below the doors on both sides that look like they could be 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 25 lines)]
>  [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
>     \_/        \_/

------------------------------

Subject: For Sale: -L reg 'Classic' Range Rover (right hand drive)
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 22:26:30 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

Yes, that's right, another of Bill's Well, Used Cars will soon be available,
this time in the UK.

	I've had many satisfied buyers of my used vehicles, and 100% 
of those sold in the last few years are still on the road. (scary but true !
including the '79 honda wicked white winter wagon, the '69 SIIa, the
'85 Sierra XR4Ti and the '87 stang.)

As is tradition, a shop manual and some excess bits will be provided :-)

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------

1972 model Range Rover (2 doors/tailgate), ~90,000* mi
-L registration (April 1973, DAJ-802-L)
	MOT to August 1996
	TAX through April 96
	White/tan interior

   Extra:
	Over Drive
	Modern Door-mounted Mirrors
	Sun roof
	Remote control alarm (perimeter, shock & tilt detection) 
	Character (and a wee bit of mud (which can be removed))
	Lots of screw-holes in dash (originally a police vehicle)
	Various and assorted Range Rover bits (spare letters, etc.)

     Mechanically well looked after.

    Standard Range Rover Drive Train:
	Full-time Four Wheel Drive
	Centre Diff lock (manual)
	Four-speed manual transmission
  Plus: Over Drive

	Bits replaced with-in the last year (10,000 miles):

 	New: clutch slave & master cylinders (11/94), suspension bushes &
	     dampers all around, front HD springs, rear A-frame ball joint,
	     (front 2/95, rear 8/95) silencer box & some pipes,
	     brake pads all around (6/95), steering drop arm ball joint.
	     With engine rebuild (4/95): u/l radiator hoses, heater hoses,
	     Timing Chain & Gear kit, Borg/Beck Clutch kit; door mirrors.
	     & more bits !

	2nd hand: rear HD springs, radiator, one head & valve train, 
	     engine rebuild from Rover Vitesse short block (slightly higher
	     compression pistons), later model (adjustable needle) carbs

	Not to mention normal tune-up parts and the odd inner fender patch
	to pass the last MOT.
     
	Receipts for most all major work.

	History (as passed down)
	keeper 5:  me, acquired Oct. '94
	keeper 4: mostly used summers to tow caravan. 60K miles* in 18 years.
		   acquired July '76, broken speedo at 19K miles*
		   [speedo documented on MOTs back to July '91]
	keeper 3: finished repairs, but couldn't afford to put it on road.
		  traded to keeper 4 for a Series L/R and cash
	keeper 2 ? evidently was in major collision
	keeper 1: police department ('73 to '75 ?)

	*Speedo said to be replaced in '76, old one read 19K miles,
	presently ~70K on clock, thus a total of 90K miles, as 
	known to have been recorded

Handles on road (like on rails at 130km/h through the French Alpes, or at
speed through Chiswick round-about), and off road as well (first in Rangie
class at SLROC 'open' RTV last August :-)

No extra charge for the mud, dings (both of which lend a bit of credibility
when you're trying to assert your right of way) or Pennine and Yorks LROC
club stickers.

Add petrol and oil regularly and you're off.

Available for viewing in West London through 27 October, or near Leeds
[and perhaps a bit muddier :-) after 9 November.

Price: dear enough, but a lot less dear than some of the vases I've seen 
	in Harrod's Egyptian Room !

Contact Bill as follows:
  e-mail	caloccia@senie.com
  work tel	0181-572-6215 through 27 October (voice mail avilable)
  home tel	0181-232-8503 through 3 November (has ans.mach.)
  from nov 8:	contact TBD.

    Cheers,
	--bill	caloccia@Team.Net	http://www.senie.com/billc/

      1  3 R  dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, because
      |--|-+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4    ul N   H           '72 Range Rover

------------------------------

From: jpappa01@interserv.com
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 19:53:08 PDT
Subject: Re: 	Defender 90 SW

FYI:

The limited edition Defender 90 Station Wagon (NAS) will begin arriving at 
dealerships during November... Base price is now reasonably firmed up at 
$32,000. According to sources, the (estimated number is 500... shades of!) run 
is almost completely presold at this point... 

Interesting detail to *normal* Defender 90 owners... The D90 SW apparently 
will sport an auxiliary panel in the fascia housing one or more gauges - 
presumably oil pressure and charging functions as did the NAS D110... This is 
welcome news as one can assume that these bits can be purchased over the parts 
counter in due course and retrofit! No more wondering! Those people getting 
ready to put in aux. gauges may wish to consider this as an alternative as it 
will present a more *factory* appearance. More details once I see it up close 
and personal...

The BSROA Race Point 2 beach drive was held on Sunday under a crystalline sky. 
Perfect conditions met 17 vehicles. The full range of product was represented: 
Series, D90, D110, Disco and Rangey Classic and LWB. One particular tricky 
stretch was encountered due to the tide just receeding enough to permit 
passage. Intrepid Denis Nault did pioneering duties through the switch with 
his ex-NATO 109. Made it eastbound. Bogged in and skewed seaward on the 
westbound loop. Not a problem. Lobox 1st, shovels, and sand ladders had him 
out in less than five minutes... The 110 through next - as we reckoned that 
this dreadnought with its skinny tires would be a good test. No problem. The 
rest of the convoy proceeded without incident. A solo Ford Explorer waited in 
the rear to see how the Rover convoy fared. It labored through and proceeded 
to get mired a bit further up the *road.* No wheel travel, you see... But its 
driver was a good sport and waved to everyone  while he made some remark about 
Henry Ford... New D90 owner and ex-Wrangler owner Don Easdon remarked that 
this was the first time he had ever driven in sand without getting stuck! A 
great day-event was capped off by a sumptuous dinner at the Jailhouse 
restaurant in Orleans - nice selection by member Ken Peterson. Many thanks 
once again to Environmental Affairs Director Denis Nault for doing the 
groundwork for the event. The Club will offer the event next spring as a 
two-day affair - day one spent on the beach and day two at the Heritage 
Plantation... Join us for some good fun!

cheerz
Jim - there is no finer cancer than Roveritis! 

`67 2A 88 5.0L Hybrid
`67 2A 109 5.0L Hybrid
`68 2B 110 F/C Diesel
`70 P6B 3500S
`90 Range Rover County
`93 D110 (#457/500)
`95 D90 #1958

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: Re: shocker mounts
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 1995 13:18:36 +1000 (EST)

>      the Range Rover shock mounting arrangement you described was still in 
>      use on the Range Rovers imported into the US beginning in 1987. They 
>      later went to an arrangment using a lock nut but I don't remember 
>      when. 

I've seen a County with the rear shock mounts having a 3/4" post as 
before, but the last inch or so has a shoulder of a reduced diameter 
which is threaded- I wonder whether this system is actually adjustable, 
or simply a fixed (do the nut up to the shoulder) but easier to use system.
The one I saw was pulled apart, at a wrecking yard. Can anyone enlighten me?

>      My workshop manual specifies that only one of the two holes (don't 
>      remember which) is to be used for the split pin to retain the shock 
>      absorber. The other hole is there for another purpose - but it doesn't 
>      state what that purpose is!

Hmmm, my shop manual says : 
Refitting: Reverse 7 and 8 as applicable.
Reverse items 1 to 6.
(note that item 4 was "remove the upper fixings")
At least the split pin and its hole are SHOWN in the pics.
My Haynes manual has "Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure".
Lucky to get such in depth descriptions aren't we! ;)

>      Sorry to hear about your engine problems.

As was I....

>      How is your EFI test bed coming along?

Very well- I have played to quite an extent with the flap type Air Flow 
meter efi system on the bench with all I/O simulated, but now am heavily 
into designing and making a fully sequential Injection and Digital 
Ignition controller -no more distributor, no moving parts. Should be 
ready for testing on the engine Dyno at uni early next year.... bet you 
can't guess where that 5 litre efi'd rover engine will end up after that :}

cheers
Brian.

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: Re: shocker mounts
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 1995 13:35:04 +1000 (EST)

> Brian -- sounds like a great solution to the shock mounting problem! I >
too have struggled withe the stupid system when changing rear springs and
> shocks, and find it to be a real pain. I like your idea! 

Well, strictly speaking it was not my idea, I've seen the setups on 
LR Countys, and have also spoken to others previously who also "thought 
about doing that wunna these days". Now what I have done is not exactly the 
same as a County (110), and it has been done on my RR - so I'll take just 
a little credit ;)

BTW that techo from Koni said that the main reason RRs eat top shocker 
rubbers is the lack of correct compression- they are often too loose and 
flog themselves to destruction.

Another aside- 3/4 UNF dies and castellated nuts may be difficult to 
source elsewhere, I dunno- so you might try 3/4" by 16 TPI conduit dies 
if you can obtain the nuts, or M20X1.5mm conduit dies may also be close 
enough to get away with, again pending nuts. There may be other options 
available to you, but these two are what I had lying about. (3/4 UNF is 
near as dammit to the same as 3/4 conduit, both are 16TPI and the 
threadform looks the same to me- the die is a little tight on a 3/4 UNF 
bolt, but it is old and not in the best condition).
If anyone in Melbourne needs use of said die and a source of nuts, I can 
help- just ask.

Brian.

------------------------------

From: "Robert Watson (CNA)" <a-robw@microsoft.com>
Subject: RE: Disco Nerf Bars, etc.
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 19:40:54 -0700

	Those strips seem *really* fragile - in my first camping trip last weekend
	I don't remember how many times in 2 days I had to yell at people "don't step
	on those plastic steps that aren't steps!!!". I hadn't thought of them as body 
panel
	protectors but a steel bar would work really well - those panels are kind of 
thin
	aren't they? Even my 36-yr old Healey has stronger alloy panels than the 
Disco's.
	Is there anything solid to mount to down there?
I was thinking: a) mounting them to the underside of the body with big 
body/fender washers or b) mounting them to the frame rail on an extenstion (a 
la nerf bar) or maybe both?

	Do the LRNA running-boards replace these strips or do they mount underneath
	(with corresponding loss of ground clearance)?
Underneath with the corresponding loss of Ground Clearance. Another Disco owner 
found this out after a trip through the boonies. :-(

    _____
   /___|_\___     Bob Watson <a-robw@microsoft.com>
  |   |   |  \                  6405 235th Place SW
  |---|___|___\____     Mountlake Terrace, WA 98043
  |  _|   |   | _  }\
 [|_/_ \__|___|/_\_}|    '95 Beluga Black Discovery
    \_/        \_/

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: Re: ramble...
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 1995 14:31:45 +1000 (EST)

Jan,

> Brian, sorry about your v8...
Grrrr...
> Now, what was the 5.0 you built? is it bored/stroked 4.2?
ahh well I'm glad you asked!
It is not finished yet, and is very much a hybrid. Here in Australia some 
years ago, the local branch of Leyland brought out a particularly UGLY 
car called a "P-76 Executive V8" which was powered by a 4.4 litre version 
of the ally V8. It was 3.5" bore and 3.5" stroke, and had different heads 
with pressed steel rockers which were oiled through hollow pushrods from 
the lifters, instead of through galleries in the block and heads as in 
the cast rocker assembly of the Rover 8s. The block is otherwise very 
similar, but has different diameter bearings and is slightly taller due 
to the longer stroke. I am using one of these blocks, with the original 
sleeves bored out and larger (ford 4.1L six) sleeves fitted, then rebored 
to 3.685" overall bore, to suit locally available Holden (GM) +0.060 pistons 
and rings. Late 3.5 litre Range Rover heads are being used, and I have 
modified the block to provide the oil feeds to these. I use Rover 3.9 
litre head gaskets as these are intended for a 3.7" bore (close enough).
Range Rover front cover and water pump, high volume oil pump and Range 
Rover sump are used, and a MY 1986-88 Range Rover efi manifold with 
spacer plates to suit provides the air intake and fuel systems.
The whole assembly bolts straight up to a RR gearbox, and small 
modifications to the block allow the original mounts to also bolt right on.
I am using this as a test engine for an engine management computer which 
I am designing as a 3rd/4th year uni project, so it will be spending some 
time on an engine dyno at uni early next year- I hope to have it 
completed and run in by Christmas or soon after- I have exams until Nov 17.
At this stage the block is virtually ready, and I am madly working on the 
heads and induction system in my spare time. I am also yet to modify a 
Rover flywheel to suit the P-76 crank, and assemble the whole thing.

> Can you give me a little v8 Rover (starting w. Buick 215 :) history?
> I am thinking of hording some v8 parts/cores for a better day, as my
> stock 3.5l has 75,000 miles on it.
I can, but perhaps you might look around for a book called "Tuning Rover 
V8 Engines" by David Hardcastle 1993 (Haynes, ISBN # 0 85429 933 5) in a 
local library or bookshop- It cost around $40 here, and has a lot of 
history of the ally 8, and many pictures of the various incarnations of 
it. I believe he also wrote a book in 1990 called "The Rover V8 Engine" 
which is also largely history and pics. I have not read this one yet. The 
other, however, is well worth a look, as it contains many tips and 
examples of what works and what has been tried (you would be surprised!).
If you can read this one somehow, it will give you a big headstart intro, 
and I would be happy to assist further, or if you cannot find it, get 
back to me and I will try to give you as much info as I can from what I 
know and the info in the book.
> What to look for? What to do to make a 
super-torque efficient v8? > (or put a Ford 5.0 w. available adaptors?)

What means "Ford"?? ;)

> What do you know about good induction system for the Rover?
There is nothing at all wrong with the factory EFI manifold- it was 
developed for Vitesse Group A touring cars in England- should be good for 
300+ HP if matched and cleaned up. May also need a second, or larger 
throttle butterfly. I am mainly interested in torque, and I believe that 
the nearly 5 litres and efi and digital ignition control should well 
supply that. My system will also run on propane (LPG) using only the 
ignition controller functions of the computer whilst doing so.

All details I collect of the engine I am building and the modifications 
and options open to me are being kept. I have written up all I have done 
so far on the PC with pictures, and this info will be made available for 
others when I complete it. It contains many other useful bits including 
for example a conversion for using a Bosch starter motor guts and 
solenoid to replace old Joe Lucas' offering on the old housing. I'd 
better hush, he might hear and start to smoke- yikes.

apologies for the bandwidth,
Brian.
77 RR

------------------------------

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