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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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msgSender linesSubject
1 Robert Dennis [73363.42715Reply to: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily
2 "Gerald" [g@ix.netcom.co16Factory tours in Solihull
3 PDoncaster@aol.com 25IIA Brakes- Pump,Fade
4 Brian Neill Tiedemann [s66shocker mounts
5 Robertd183@aol.com 7Subscribe
6 Belanger Eric [belane@ER26Equipement list.
7 mfalcon@sover.net 11Re: Metric et al.ike
8 Wdcockey@aol.com 13LR's at concours
9 David Bartlett [bartlett32[not specified]
10 LANDROVER@delphi.com 48Re: IIA Brakes- Pump,Fade
11 dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu21Re: Oz?


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Date: 22 Oct 95 10:44:41 EDT
From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com>
Subject: Reply to: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily

 >>   I thought mine was noisy  (a new unit), but it became at least 35%
quieter AFTER I switched my unit to synthetic gear oil. <<

 I was wondering what weight gear oil are you using. I have always used 90wt
but noticed in the FAQ that 50wt was recommended. I would think that the
lighter oil would increase the amount of noise. Have you, or anyone, compared
the noise with 50wt vs 90wt.

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 22-Oct-1995

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From: "Gerald" <g@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 11:23:42 -0400
Subject: Factory tours in Solihull

What do you see if you take a factory tour of the Solihull factory?
When are factory tours given?
Can you get there using public transportation or how far is it from a 
train station?
What other sites might be interesting to a recent Discovery buyer 
in North America?

--
Gerald
g@ix.netcom.com

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From: PDoncaster@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 11:48:38 -0400
Subject: IIA Brakes- Pump,Fade

Omniscient Friends
Pease help:

'64 IIA 88

All of a sudden my brakes went from their normal one-pump and constant
pressure to one-pump-pressure-fade. The fluid reservoir was still full. I've
checked all the wheel cylinders and they appear to be ok. I'm now looking at
the master cylinder. What do you think? Anyone have the same problem? 

If it is the master cylinder, can I replace it myself?
and what is the consensus on bleeding? I read the string a month or so ago,
and the gravity method seemed to take precidence.

Thanks in advance

Peter Doncaster
'64 IIA 88 SW 
New Orleans, USA

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From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: shocker mounts
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 02:18:41 +1000 (EST)

Today a posting of a neat, functional modification to early Range Rover 
top shock absorber mounts....

Early Rangies have a nightmarish arrangement for compressing the top two 
rubber bushings into the top eye of the shocker. There are two split pin 
holes at different depths down the 3/4" post which protrudes from the 
chasis mount. The idea is that you place one rubber, the shocker eye, 
then the other rubber onto the post followed by a flat washer, then 
utilise a little *magic* to compress the rubbers enough to perform 
correctly, then find that the split pin holes are nowhere near where they 
are needed.....think think..... DING!

I have made a more practical arrangement by running a 3/4" UNF die over 
the mount posts for about an inch or so (just past the second pin hole).
I bought some castellated nuts to suit, and thinned them in the lathe to 
give a more reasonable amount of adjustment of the rubber compression, 
and hey presto- a properly adjustable mount. Simply set the desired 
compression by screwing the nut onto the flat washer, then pop in a split 
pin to keep it all in place.

This was done in the process of installing a replacement set of rear 
shocks. Previously the vehicle had Gabriel Hi-Jacker air adjustable 
shocks. I was not overly impressed with their performance, but they were 
fitted to the car by its PO. I do not agree with air adjustable shocks 
being used to carry spring loads- Shock Absorber mounts are for shock 
loads, not continuous static loads plus shock loads. Also I think of 
going around a bend at speed- vehicle leans to outside of turn, shock on 
outside of turn compresses air in its integral air spring, which in 
turn pumps up higher the other shock, exaggerating the lean: YUK.
This could be fixed I guess by using two separate air systems to control 
the pressure in each side, but this is not the standard approach used...

Anyhow, back to the subject. The replacements were a Koni product, which 
I picked up from the local wreckers for $70 on the proviso that they 
checked out OK. Took them to the local Koni importer, who ran them on 
their testing machine and found them to be "as new spec". I purchased 
some new rubbers, nylock nuts, and a washer which was missing. The 
technician who tested the shocks recognised them as RR items and 
chattered away: he had owned one a while back...
I walked away with a recently reconditioned load leveller which he had 
left over from his RR after installing airbags- for a cost of $20 ;)
In use, the Konis are noticably different... I have them set to the 
softest adjustment on the advice of the Koni techo, who said that the 
stiffer adjustments were better used if carrying heavier than normal 
loads on the highway- to combat a little body roll. He also said that as 
the shocks wear out and lose performance, the adjustments can compensate.
Small bumps such as "cat eyes" on the road surface have reduced greatly, 
especially at speeds below about 75 Km/h. The vehicle feels much more 
solid on corrugated dirt roads, and overall highway ride is less harsh. I 
am certainly impressed so far. I am told to expect in the order of 15-20 
years of service before rebuilding is necessary! (current cost of this is 
around $90 per shock). Still not sure if they are $340 a pair worth of 
improvement (full new price), but they are certainly a good $90 worth. 
Can't wait to give them a more thorough offroad testing, but I had a 
minor...erm...engine problem in the week or so since I fitted them (see 
yesterday's whinge oops I mean posting).

may your bumps be many and your shocks be few
cheers,
BT.

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From: Robertd183@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 12:51:49 -0400
Subject: Subscribe

Subscribe

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Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 13:27:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Belanger Eric <belane@ERE.UMontreal.CA>
Subject: Equipement list.

	Hi all,
	       Preparing an expedition to africa starting May for an 
undetermined period of time.  I found a few hints about how to do so in 
one of the rover web sites but what I am currently loking for is a list 
of equipement to bring along on such a journey.  Has anybody on the group 
made such a trip and if so any hints, tips and information would be 
greatly appreciated.

	On an other note, I will buy a LR in London before driving down 
to Morocco and heading south.  Dos anybody have a suggestion about what I 
should do to get me LR immatriculated.

	Thank you in advance
		E.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Eric Belanger					Belane@tornade.ere.Umontreal.ca
Departement des sciences economiques		Belane@chinook.ere.Umontreal.ca
Universite de Montreal				tel: (514) 343 6111 poste 3841
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: mfalcon@sover.net
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 10:53:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Metric et al.ike	

Right on Mike,
A well reasoned and stirring defense of individual
freedom. Don't think Metric! Think liberty
Regards
M Falcon

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From: Wdcockey@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 17:05:25 -0400
Subject: LR's at concours

>From a report in "AutoWeek" October 16, 1995 issue on the L.A. British Car
Meet held Sept. 24 with more than 400 vehicles. It was subtitled "L.A. meet
proves the Brits can still pack 'em in":
"One of the more interesteing displays was staged by Land Rover owners. While
it's common to clean up one's machine prior to a concours, the Rover entries
wore their dents, mud and dirt like badges of honor." A photo shows several
IIA's (is one a II?), a III and a Defender 90.

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Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 18:37:11
Subject: Re: Metric Land Rovers
From: David Bartlett <bartlett@hlalapansi.win-uk.net>

>From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk>

>Wrong.We still get pints.And Metrication has little to
>commend it.It maybe wouldnt be too bad if it *was*
>the metric system,but it isnt.Its the SI system,which
    [snip...]
>reached the current state of brain deadness sufficient
>for it to be foisted on a British public that neither
>wanted that,nor wanted to be "European",whatever *that*
>is.
Mike Rooth speaks entirely for himself. Metrication is an infinite
improvement over the archaic imperial system, and what I can't
understand is why we waited so long to come up-to-date. I am
English (British), and European, and am really glad that at last we
have caught up with the modern world.
 
>If our political "masters" had any sense we would have
>adopted the American system.Except for pints.Theirs are
Adopting the American system would be a retrogressive step,
equivalent to sinking into hell. :-{
 
Sorry Mike, but may I suggest that you take your bigoted
anti-European venom somewhere other than this list. :) 

David.

=========================================================
bartlett@hlalapansi.win-uk.net                    at home

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From: LANDROVER@delphi.com
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 21:43:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: IIA Brakes- Pump,Fade

Peter asks...

> All of a sudden my brakes went from their normal one-pump and constant
> pressure to one-pump-pressure-fade. The fluid reservoir was still full.
> I've checked all the wheel cylinders and they appear to be ok. I'm now
> looking at the master cylinder. What do you think?
/

You say the wheel cylinders look OK. No loss of fluid in the reservoir? You
also have three hoses in the system, two on the front wheels and one to the
rear axel. Check them out while someone else pushes down the brake pedal.
Also, how does the brake fluid look? If there is a lot of gray-black crud in
it, the rubber seals are breaking down.

> If it is the master cylinder, can I replace it myself?
> and what is the consensus on bleeding? I read the string a month or so
> ago, and the gravity method seemed to take precidence.
/

Yes, you can replace the master cylinder by yourself. Keep in mind that you
have a common reservoir for the brake and clutch, so you will have to undo
the feed line for the clutch master before you can pull the brake master. It
will make life a lot easier if you can remove the left front wing (to get
easier access to the master cylinders). You're going to be leaking brake
fluid all over which can mess up your paint, so have some rags handy. Undo
the brake pipe to the brake master, remove the six bolts holding the
pedal assembly from inside the footwell and remove the pedal assembly.
Voila! When you replace everything, there is an adjustment on the pushrod
that is important. Basically, you need a bit of free-play in the pedal
before it starts pushing the piston in the master cylinder. I think it's
about 1/8 inch - someone will correct me if I'm wrong, I'm sure. As to
bleeding, I made a pressure bleeder out of an old reservoir cap, a fitting
or two, some plastic tubing and a bicycle pump. Crude, but it worked on my
IIa...

Cheers
  Michael Loiodice       E-MAIL   landrover@delphi.com              
  166 W.Fulton St.       VOICE    (518) 725-1859                    
  Gloversville                                                      
  NY, 12078      -USA-   1965 Ser IIa 88 Petrol ("Sidney")      
              7          1972 Ser III 88 Petrol ("Fern")
           #:-}>         1971 Ser IIa 88 Petrol (Parts is Parts)

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From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: Oz?
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 11:56:11 +0930 (CST)

> seen a very large, burly man order a case of "Vic twisties" (Victoria beer
> with twist-off cap) all without any hint of embarassment 

Obviously not a land rover driver this fellow.. glass bottles and all.

should really have asked for a "Green Cans".  or in the more civilised and
ordered society of the NT  "One Green" for a full case and "1/2 Green" for half
a case.

Got better things to do than waste time ordering beer......

cheers etc
-- 

  Daryl Webb   (dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au)

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