Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 19:57:35 +1000 (EST)
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: air bag / bull-bars

On bull-bars (park-by-feel-bars) and air-bags:

   ADR-69 (Oz-Design Rule 69) requires that any bull-bar fitted to
   an ADR-69-compliant car be certified by the car maker,
   or the bar maker, as not up-stuffing ADR-69 compliance.
   In particular, if the car has an air-bag, then the bull-bar
   must not interfere with the timing of the trigger.
   (ADR 69 does not require an air-bag.)

   This requires crash testing to verify - $$$$$

The airbag inflates and then deflates quickly, and a few milliseconds early or
late could be fatal.  So there is a flurry of research activity on this topic.
I hope to track down the local researchers soon.

I seem to recall a plastic bar by Land-Rover in an engineering mag' ?

Lloyd

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 09:02:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: Power connectors

> When is someone going to come up with a 12 power connector that is less clunky
> than the lighter sockets?

    Gee, my Series II has a pretty nifty two-prong power plug in the
    dash...  Not sure where you buy the extra plugs to attach to all
    your devices, though!

    Duncan

------------------------------

Date: 21 Oct 95 09:45:19 EDT
From: Mark Ritter <70472.1130@compuserve.com>
Subject: Disco Steel Wheels

Try Famous Four Products in England. The shipping will be less than "OZ" and the
wheels are used (takeofffs) and are only 25 pounds apiece. Thier number is
011-44-1507-609444. Ask to speak to Martin Stebbings. The steel wheels on my
Disco came from Lakeland LR in Cumbria.I got around the cost of shipping be
bringing them back as checked baggage from me trip to England.They too were
takeoffs, just a couple of tiny scratches, not bad for about $40 apiece.
Mark Ritter
							94 Disco

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 06:51:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Metric Land Rovers

What!?  We're going metric?  I know that was the plan under the Carter 
administration, but I thought that was quietly put to death just within 
the last month or so.

Well, if we do go metric, I hope that we just get on with it.  I'd hate 
to see us go through a whole lot of ridiculous wailing about having to 
order beer by the half liter instead of the pint.  The home country of 
Land Rover seems to be having some trouble with this.  The home country 
of Land Rover's parent company doesn't.

Metric, shmetric.  Who cares?

Cheers!
John

On Thu, 19 Oct 1995, Michael Carradine wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Peter Hirsch <lopezba@atnet.at> writes:
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 35 lines)]
>  _________________________________________________________________________
>  Land-Rover 4x4 Connection WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html

------------------------------

From: Guy Arnold <GUY@facade.adm.clarkson.edu>
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 10:13:18 EDT
Subject: Lucas Strikes Again

On the way home from work the other night, in my 1973 Series III 
"88", I stopped and topped off the tank. When I got home I noticed 
the gas gauge was not working. I removed seat and cover to check the 
wiring 
from the sending unit. I grounded the wire to the frame and the gauge 
worked so I knew it wasn't the gauge or the wiring to the gauge. I 
started checking the sending unit because I had problems with it 
before, specificly the tab for the wire to the gauge. I guess from 
taking the tank out during restoration and once again when I replaced 
the tank with a new one, the tab on the sending unit had been moved 
back and forth enough to break it off. I figured I was in for a new 
sending unit. I took the unit off the tank and noticed the tab was 
encased in nylon in the sending unit. I figured I had nothing to 
loose so I took the broken tab and heated with a propane torch until 
it was good and hot. I then pressed into the nylon touching the 
remaining tab base. I checked with my continuity meter, presto, it 
worked. I mixed up some "Metal Lox" by ChemSearch, a metal epoxy, and 
placed it around the tab to prevent it from coming out. The gas gauge 
is working fine and with a $00.00 repair bill.
To change subjects, I have been planning to install a radio and CB in 
the "Green Machine". I wanted to install over head to avoid possible 
water damage. I purchased a overhead shelf which attaches at the 
visor bases in most vehicles. They come in several colors and are 
coated with a fabic material. I ordered mine from Cabella's but J.C. 
Whitney has them also. The cost was $49.50 US. and I ordered it to 
fit a 1983-1991 Chevy Suburban. It fits my Series III like a glove. 
It has rolled edges and looks like it was made for LR. It will hold 
the both radios and still have plenty of room for cassettes and 
garage door openner and other junk. I did not replace the sun visors 
because I never used them but they can be attached to the under side 
of the shelf and work just fine.
Well I am off to install a third hinge to rear safari door (as per 
Dixon's recommendation due to the weight of spare tire).

Guy Arnold
1973 Series III swb "Green Machine"
1960 MGA 1600 roadster

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 07:05:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: 7500 Service charge

Leland,

I paid $49 for my 7500 mile checkup at British Motor Car Company (901 Van 
Ness, San Francisco) back in August.  I'd say Stevens Creek is taking 
people for a ride and, if I were you, I'd place a very hot phone call to 
Land Rover North America.  The number's in your owner's manual.

Go get 'em!
John
'95 Discovery
San Francisco, California

On Thu, 19 Oct 1995, Leland J Roys wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Hi,
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 27 lines)]
> roys@cup.hp.com
> 1994 Def-90 (Red)

------------------------------

Date: 21 Oct 95 10:15:24 EDT
From: Robert Dennis <73363.427@compuserve.com>
Subject: Discovery wheels/tires

 >> Why do the Brits tend to use such--by US standards--skinny tires? <<

 I am a firm believer that thinner tires work much better than fat ones
especially in the mud. I know that most people, especially here in the south,
like BIG, FAT, Raised White Letter tires but they are not being purchased for
real off road use. I think the smaller width allows more pressure per square
inch of contact, plus it allows the tire to drop through the muck to more firm
ground, both of which aid in traction. I have as set of 33x9.50 BFG Mudterrains
on a FJ40 and they are unstoppable. On my SerIII I have 7.50R16 BFG TracEdge
and would not want anything wider that this. The only reason I see to go with
wide tires if for driving in sand where you want some amount of float, but
other that that I would go with a thinner tire.

 Just my 2"

     -------------------
    |         |         |
    | _ _ ____|____ _ _ |       Rob Dennis
  O |[___|>>>>>>>>>|___]| O     73363.427@Compuserve.com
   \____===_=====_===____/      Atlanta, GA USA
   |oo   |(_)###(_)|   oo|
   |     |   ###   |     |      1972 SerIII 88
   |     | ####### |     |      1990 RangeRover
   |_____|_#######_|_____|
  [_______________________]
     |\/|           |\/|

Send By: Rob Dennis 73363.427@Compuserve.com
 On 21-Oct-1995

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 11:59:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Malcolm R. Forbes" <mrf@mv.MV.COM>
Subject: GPS accuracy

I use my GPS on a 16 foot dory that I sail off the New England coast.  
For those
dont who know, that is a world of fast tides and heavy fogs.  With a slow 
boat,
GPS is very comforting.  

Actual practice will temper theories of accuracy with real world 
considerations.
I often fish six miles off shore at the Isles of Shoals.  My return 
target is a
red beacon at the end of a jetty at the mouth of Little Harbor.  Tidal 
currents
in that area run NE along the coast on on incoming tide and SW on the 
outgoing.
The usual heading from the Isles is NW, straight across the tides, and the
current can really set you off a long way.  My GPS will give a running 
display
of course and distance and the set from the base course.  

Eventually the message *CLOSE* appears on the screen.  That is time to 
put the
GPS away and start doing all of the things that sailors have done 
forever.  That
beacon is built on a huge pile of rocks.  Now is the time to look, listen and
inch your way along.  GPS is just an AID to navigation.  Only use GPS to get
close enough to let your other senses take over.  

One word of caution about GPS.  Be sure that you get the adapter cable to
attatch the GPS to a BIG 12 volt battery.  My Magellan will suck three 
pen light
batteries dry before you can say *Im lost*.  Well, maybe not that fast, 
but I
can use up a new set inside of six hours.  

Trimble (1-800-481-8000) will send you a couple of great, understandable 
books
describing how GPS and Differential GPS work.  

Cheers,
Malcolm

     \--|
    / \ |
   /   \|\
  /     ||\   =====__
 /______||_\  |[__]|_\_==_
\XXXXXXXXXX/  | 65 |88 IIA]
 ==(@)======== (@)------(@)... . -- .--. . .-.   ..-. ..*\:{>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 09:37:45 -0700
From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett)
Subject: 2.25, 8:1 Distributors

I've got a few distributor questions I was hoping someone can help with.

Glancing through the LR parts catalogues and various manuals has left me 
a little puzzled about the appropriate distributor to use on a 2.25l 8:1 
engine.  I'm replacing the existing engine (7:1) with and 8:1.  It 
appears from the parts catalogue that there are differences between some 
of the parts from the 7:1 to the 8:1 (for example the distributor drive 
shaft (7:1 spline type coupling) and drive coupling (8:1 blade type 
coupling) and the adaptor).

Can the distributor be swapped between engines by changing these parts? 
 It appears that this is so and the only difference is in the couplings 
at the base of the shaft and the adaptor plate. 

What is the difference between the Lucas and Ducellier distributors?  I 
can't find enough parts info to tell.  I'm considering just purchasing a 
new complete distributor assembly and would like input on the different 
units available.

If it makes any difference the plan is to hook up an electric ignition 
module after installation.

Thanks in advance for your input.

Cheers,

Jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 12:59:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dixon Kenner <dkenner@emr1.emr.ca>
Subject: Re: Eagle GPS Phone #

On Fri, 20 Oct 1995 JCassidyiv@aol.com wrote:

> > AccuNav Sport GPS.  If you call 1-800-324-4763, ext. 101, 
> > The number has been changed to 1-800-661-3983
> I had gotten this number out of the November issue of the American Rifleman.

>   I called to check, and the number I posted worked fine(from the East coast
> US) and the 1-800-661-3983 gave me a recording stating "your # cannot be
> completed as dialed."  
> Cheers!  John Cassidy

	Called the first number and a recording gave me the second number.
	The second number worked happily here in eastern Canada.  Don't
	Know what the phone system is up to...

	Oh well...

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: ramble...
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 04:01:36 +1000 (EST)

Evening all,
I have been lurking, if not contributing, but not without reason. 
First a little advice for all owners of the alloy V8 derivatives:
Whenever your sump is removed for any reason, check and RETORQUE all main 
bearing cap bolts (and big end nuts too if keen).
This is a simple and quick process, and can be done in foot-pounds, newton-
metres, or gopherweight-lucases or whatever, and may save some (not so 
small) amount of muttering under ones breath.

My beloved Rangie decided to experiment with the possibilities of 
operating the engine in a 2-6 split cycle mode.... yep a 2 piece crank :(

I was driving fairly tenderly, on road, oil pressure normal, then the 
whole car began vibrating LOTS. I turned into a side street and coasted 
to a stop. Phoned the RACV (local Auto Club) and asked to have a tray 
truck sent. The polite young lady said "We will send one of our trained 
roadside care cars to get you going." "Send a tray truck, please." said I.

At home I removed the sump... found a main cap bolt loose in the sump. I 
hoped that the cap rattling may have been the vibration, but no. Turning 
the crank by hand showed that the front six and rear two cylinders were 
attatched to separate pieces of the crank....mutter mutter.

Removed engine, stripped crank, looked, found that remaining bolt still 
holding that main cap in place had put enough force on the block to crack 
a neat piece away containing half a bolt hole and part of the bearing 
shell housing :(   more muttering.

The short solution to all of this has been to obtain a block, crank and 
pistons from the corner of a friend's shed, strip it, clean it and 
reassemble it with my heads, timing gear, cam and accesories, and then re 
install with fingers and toes crossed. Result: good, strong running 3.5 
which is not smokey (phew) and has no strange noises. The hope was to 
cheaply assemble an engine to last the few remaining months until my 5 
litre hybrid rover engine is finished on the dyno at uni. Well, the cost 
in total was $10 for a sump gasket, $15 for a rear main seal, $4 for a 
timing gasket, and $24 for a pair of head gaskets (+time +headaches). I 
figure that there is an excellent chance of the engine lasting at least 
the short time I require, but Murphy is watching, so I'd better hush.

NOW the _Why_:
Talking to many "Experts" reveals that my experience is not all that 
uncommon for high mileage engines, especially those given the odd rev now 
and then. The block being alloy, and bolts and caps steel and cast iron 
respectively, expand and contract at different rates, and with time and 
vibration and a little bad luck, those bolts can loosen. One out of ten 
of mine had, to the point where it could actually drop down to the sump, 
and sat rattling in its hole, held up only buy the sump baffle until I 
removed the sump. The result of such loosening could be one of a few (UNgood)
things: 
-loss of oil pressure due to bearing clearance causing some bearing 
surface failure.
-cracked block due to increased load on remaining fasteners.
-broken crankshaft due to flexing allowed by loose bearing.
-ANY COMBINATION OF ABOVE.
I achieved 2 out of three :(

Please take my well researched advice, checking this is so easy, and 
getting those bastard bolts holding engine to bell housing out is so hard!!
(along with all the rest of that engine out>rebuild>in stuff)

mutter mutter
Brian
77 RR ("Lucky" perhaps)
:} (to balance all the :( s )

------------------------------

From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: more...
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 04:19:28 +1000 (EST)

Hello again,

Jim, tyre size arguements have been known to cause friends to strangle 
one another, but my _opinion_ is that in the type of use which my vehicle 
gets, thin tyres as you call them work better. They cut through the mud 
and grip, and climb out of ruts well, whereas wider tyres like 33X12.5 or 
35X12.5 tyres can show a tendancy to 'float' and slide around more. it 
also seems that really agressive tread patterns are harder to find in 
a wider carcas (though some do exist). Fat tyres may work well in sand- I 
don't do much desert travelling, but I would worry about spiking tyres 
more than tread patterns in desert- bald seems to be good in this case, 
so fat may be also. Comments anyone?
note that my 'thin' tyres have been: 205 16, 7.50 16 and 9X32 16 on a 77 
Rangie with a 2" body lift to clear tyres.
Another friend is of the opinion that for effective cleaning of a tyre, 
it must be kept turning at a reasonable rate- Big tyres= More power needed.
Perhaps there is a reason that 2.25l landies don't sport 37" Hummer tyres.

cheers,
Brian.
77 RR

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 16:01:40 +0000
From: RMILLER@Middlebury.edu (Raoul Miller)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

I knew I should have kept a copy of that listing about the 109 for sale,
but the day after I binned it, a friend of mine asked for the number.
Could the seller of that vehicle (or anyone else who keeps a tidier hard
drive) please e-mail me the phone number.  The vehicle was the newly
imported 109 with 5 speed, new engine, hardtop and soft top, etc, I think
the owner was in Maryland.  Sorry to the rest of you for disturbing you
with less-than relevant request.
        Thanks, Raoul

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 10:42:21 +1300
From: jawa@i-max.co.nz (Leonard John Hobart)
Subject: Re: Elephant

>To: Kerry Jones ext 8002 <RGTY_KMJ@waikato.ac.nz>
>From: jawa@i-max.co.nz (Leonard John Hobart)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
>Thanks Kerry, 
>                             address to, John Hobart  Fax (09) 523 1948 
>regards John Hobart Whenuapai West AK

------------------------------

Date: 21 Oct 95 17:49:52 EDT
From: Mark Talbot <71035.3215@compuserve.com>
Subject: Painting my 109

All, 

I'm looking to paint the sunsheet on my 109. I have a few questions as to how to
best paint it. I want to try and do it as a DIY job. 

The paint on the sheet is badly faded, down to bare alloy. I take it I need a
etch primer to make the top coat stick ? Where can I get a good etch primer in a
can ?

I also want to try and brush paint the sunsheet with limestone, as it's off the
vehicle. Can anyone reccommend a good Limestone brushable paint I can use ?

Thanks, 

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 00:23:20 +0100
From: jory@org.org (jory bell)
Subject: I'll be in the UK for a couple weeks...

I decided to go the the UK for a couple weeks... I'll be leaving on Monday
afternoon.

I'll be in London, Edinborough (sp?), Petersborough (sp?) and Cork (Ireland).

Where are the good places to shop for some rover stuff (forward-facing rear
jump seats for the 88, etc)? Any thought on where to locate a good
condition old series rover (my girlfriend was thinking of importing a RHD
ser I ;)

I am also going to try and locate the company which makes drop-boxes
(portal axle adapters) for 90s (they were shown in a reader picture in LROI
magazine).

I am not sure if I'll actually get a chance to do much rover-related
shopping/searching (there are actually non-rover activities planned for the
trip as well ;, but I am planning on dropping in on John Foers (maker of
the Ibex... situated in Yorkshire).

-jory bell

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 16:57:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John C. White III" <jcwhite3@well.com>
Subject: Re: Oz?

I believe it's from the first three letters of "AUStralia."  It's been my 
observation that the use of diminutives has been developed to its fullest 
by the Aussies.  I've heard them say things like "prezzies for Chrissy" 
(presents for Christmas), and seen a very large, burly man order a case 
of "Vic twisties" (Victoria beer with twist-off cap) all without any hint 
of the embarassment an American would have over using this same phrases.

Great place with great people, Australia.  If you get a chance to go, do 
so in a heartbeat.

Cheers!
John

On Thu, 19 Oct 1995 mfalcon@sover.net wrote:

> To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
> Just a quick question for the group.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)]
> Regards to all.
> M Falcon

------------------------------

Subject: cant find turkish toy posting
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 95 19:19:09 -0500

A week or so ago someone was offering toys from turkey, can anyone re 
send this sucker to me or would the original send er please stand up?

Robin

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

From: brian.foster@ccmailsmtp.ast.com
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 95 20:55:48 PST
Subject: Discovery Price Negotiation

Regarding whether prices are negotiable in California, we bought our '95 
Disco in late August and saved around $2K on a white w/ cloth interior and 
automatic transmission. No other options, but dealer also thru in floor 
mats and first 3 services free (although this is a carry over from our 
Range Rover). 

We really wanted the cloth interior and the dealer was willing to eat the 
$900 it would cost in labor to switch one with leather out for us 
(although, ours got delivered as we were negotiating so they never did have 
to do the interior swap).

Let me know if you need a dealer recommendation... :)
Brian Foster
brian.foster@ast.com

------------------------------

From: Julianbak@eworld.com
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 22:09:07 -0700
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

----------------------------- Begin Original Text
-----------------------------

Subject: Overdrive whine - Is it supposed to?
----------------------------- End Original Text -----------------------------
Some whine IS normal, however it should not be much above the normal gear
whine sound from a healthy LR gear box.  I thought mine was noisy  (a new
unit), but it became at least 35% quieter AFTER I switched my unit to
synthetic gear oil.   The Fairly unit does NOT have much oil capacity, so I
recommend synthetic oil anyway - and frequent oil changes (approx 9000 mi).

Julian Baker, Portland Oregon
1966 Series 11A, 88

------------------------------

From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash)
Subject: re: Disco phones & 12v power
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 11:21:45 +1000

> When is someone going to come up with a 12 power connector that is less clunk
> ly
> than the lighter sockets?

Look at a sIII dash sometime -- it has a neat little pair of banana
sockets, providing power for almost anything.  Instrumentation
plus are usually stackable (have an outlet in the back), so you
can stuff as many items in as you need (modulo battery capacity,
wiring, the connector stack falling apart, etc).

The PO of my previous sIII used it for hunting, and just wired a 
normal household 15A outlet into the back, using heavy wire direct
from the battery.  This let him use a pretty hefty spotlamp, even
if it did have an interesting effect on battery charge in the 
rain :-).

------------------------------

  END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 20 lines 864 [forwarded 106 whitespace 210]
 Output: lines 702 [content 469  forwarded 32 (cut  74) whitespace 181]

	
    Forward
	


	
    
          
	



Photos & text Copyright 1990-2011
	Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. 

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-2011 by the original poster or/and
	Bill Caloccia,
	All rights reserved.