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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: WASSILI@AMC.UVA.NL
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 09:14:14 +0001
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Hello Roverers,

I've just bought a new Discovery Commercial 300 TDi, blinded side
windows after the front seats' and no back seats, '95 model and I've
also bought an original LandRover Discovery rubber floor mat set (
great for muddy feet! :-) ). The floor mats for the rear passengers
are useless to me.
Someone interested? If so E-mail me at wassili@amc.uva.nl

 ______
| ## ### #####\
|## ###  ######\______
|    ___\      | ___  \
|___/   \_______/   \ |

    ( 0 )       ( 0 )
Roy Wassili

------------------------------

From: Richard Jones <rich@apricot.mee.com>
Subject: Classic vs. Disco
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 9:42:42 +0100 (BST)

Treit Le writes:
> 	I lean towards the Classic, but wonder about the 25 year-old design 
> 	vs. the 6 year-old design and the 4.0 engine. I live in New York City and 

Peel back the 6 year old body, look real close and you will spot the same 25 year old 
design hiding underneath.

> 	intend to drive about 25,000 pothole laden miles a year for 4 years. Is either 
> 	vehicle more or less likely to hold up.

If the current trend continues the Classic will have the highest resale vale.  Late 
Classics are becoming very sort after, particularly if current predictions hold and 
the last one comes off the line in February.

>	I had read that the 3.9 had head gasket 
> 	problems at about 60-80k miles. What is resale value like at 100k miles? 

If correctly maintanined they are more than capable of 200,000 trouble free miles.  Also
remember that the 3.9 and 4.0 are basically the same engine.

> 	Off-roading would not be an issue. I assume that either one would be great for 
> 	driving up unpaved Vermont mountain roads in the winter.

Who needs roads?
__ 
  _ __              Apricot Computer Limited
 ' )  )      /      3500 Parkside               Tel:   (+44) 121 717 7171
  /--' o _. /_      Birmingham Business Park    Fax:   (+44) 121 717 0123
 /  <_<_(__/ <_     BIRMINGHAM  B37 7YS
 Richard Jones      United Kingdom              Email: richardj@apricot.mee.com

------------------------------

Subject: Re: Defender 110 owners with problem 
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 95 05:53:52 -0400
From: William Caloccia <caloccia@sw.stratus.com>

>   Now we can't whine and moan...

	As if I could stop a bunch of British car owners from doing that ?

>   OK... my overdrive whines and my old lady moans... Howzat???   :-)

	Actually there was an excellent short animation called 'Moanologue'
	on Ch.4 (LWT) Monday evening where this guy's wife....(well you can
	figure it out).

	The list is, as always, a place to ask for advice, swap war stories and 
do all that  kind of stuff.

	However, as before when talking about independent parts vendors, my
comments are that if you've got a problem with a vendor, then fine, ask
for people who've had problems, but collect the information off line, both
as a courtesey to the list, (and sometimes it is better to keep some things
less public). Then maybe come back later and summarize the info, as appropriate.

	Asking for advice (on dealing with a vendor) or experiences (of how the 
vendor dealt with problems in the past) is a bit different than asking for
a list of problems.   How to go about resolving the problem is the real
question.  In my view, that is perfectly fine, and better etiquette (on or
off the net).

-----

I think you lot know I don't censor the list, barring mailer glitches or
malicious e-mail(er)s.  [Not to mention there are enough mature and sharp
tongues out there to let folks know when they're out of line].

Nor am I interested in censoring it or moderating it. (Doing either, as
Prodigy found out, has some definite legal repercussions, as the court 
then views it as 'publishing' and there is liability for content.)

    Cheers,
	--bill	caloccia@Team.Net	http://www.senie.com/billc/

      1  3     dl OD  L           "Land Rover's first, because
      |--|--+  o  |   |            Land Rovers last."
      2  4  R  ul N   H           '72 Range Rover

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 05:02:59 -0500 (CDT)
From: wilsonhb@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu (Henry B. Wilson)
Subject: D90 SW future market

Any opinions (and rationale) on whether the D90 SW will hold its value as
well as a D110?

I would like to trade up from a 5 spd Disco to the D90 SW (which I wanted in
the first place but there wasn't a hardtop when it came out) and am looking
for rationalizations to go along with such an obviously logical financial
choice. (!)

Henry B. Wilson             http://vumclib.mc.vanderbilt.edu/~wilsonhb

           '59 AHY 100-6                    '94 Disco
                              
      "The Healey's clean; the Rover's filthy.  Life is perfect."

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 09:52:30 +0000
From: RMILLER@Middlebury.edu (Raoul Miller)
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

>> From: Treski@aol.com
>> Date: Mon, 2 Oct 1995 23:48:15 -0400

>> Attn all 110 owners:   I f you have had a problem of any kind with your rover
>> that was fixed under warranty,  please write about it  here.  ex getting all
>> 4 doors replaced because of a bad paint job.   thank you

>Don't bother writing about it here, this list isn't for whinging and moaning,
>just send your moaning mail directly to 'Treski@aol.com', or you'd probably
>get better results if you wrote to the manufacturer's agent and told 'em
>directly how much you liked the vehicle, but how disappointed you were
>that xxxx.

>Cheers,
 >-Bill

I agree.  If the Hollywood and Aspen type street cruisers who own the
majority of the NAS 110 s out there are unhappy with the mirror effect of
the paint perhaps they would care to pass down these vehicles to those of
us who will apppreciate them for something more than their
Schwarzenegger-Chic.

------------------------------

From: Frederick_O._Ellsworth@bcsmac.org (Frederick O. Ellsworth)
Subject: Lack of Power on Startup
Date: 04 Oct 1995 15:33:58 GMT

Hi all,
I'm still working on this lack of power on startup in our '71 IIA 88" with
2.25 petrol engine.  I can't figure it out and its getting much worse as the
nights get chillier.  Yesterday morning when I went out and started it I did
something I guess I'd never done before (or the problem is just getting
gradually worse).  I have to use the choke to get it started no matter what
the temp is outside, so I pulled out the choke and cranked it up.  It started
ok, but then I punched the gas a couple of times.  Each time I punched the
gas the engine *almost* died, but as soon as I let of the gas it returned to
a normal idle.  

Again, as soon as it warmed up the problem seemed to go away and the engine
ran great at all speeds.

All I can think of is some sort of vaccuum leak, but I sprayed carb cleaner
all over the darn thing and there was no change of idle.  Besides, wouldn't a
vaccum leak demonstrate symptoms at any temperature?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Fred

- sent via an evaluation copy of BulkRate (unregistered).

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Winches etc
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 95 11:15:00 DST

Regarding the use of winches, electric/pto drum/capstan
When using the winch to move another vehicle/object the advantage of the 
capstan winch is that when the line is fully reeled in it is only necessary 
to flip it off the drum and change ends to start the next pull. Also the 
amount of pull can be easily regulated by the degree of tailing (how hard 
you pull on the rope coming off the drum). And ropes are a lot kinder to 
hands than steel cables (OK so they stretch more, I can live with that).

Trevor

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 95 08:18:10 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Anyone ever install a "Lock Right" locker?

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Anyone ever install a "Lock Right" locker?
Hello all! I just received a Lock Right locker for my '87 RR. Has anyone
ever installed one before? It doesn't appear to be too difficult... (Famous
last words!) I don't have the factory manual for the RR, but I do have the
one from the Disco, should be the same for the differential. Any "special
tools" needed?

Will I need a new gasket(s?) for the center section or axle seals? Can I
just use the "blue goo" or "red goo" gasket junk without a gasket?

Steven Gross, I understand you have a "Thorsen" locker? What's the
difference? Did you install it yourself?

Please advise! Thanks, Dave (soon to be locked) Brown

 #=====#         #========#          -------,___           _______
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___      |--' |  |  \_|_      / /__|__\___
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}    |  _ |--+--|_  |     \_/-\___/-\_|}
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"    ||_/_\___|__/_\_|}      ( )    ( )
                                       (_)      (_)
 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa     1994 Discovery (Sold) '87 Range Rover
 LIC: LION B8    Historic plates     (Too hard to "draw")  $8500 bargain
                                                           Soon with locker!

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

From: JFisk1120@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 11:22:39 -0400
Subject: USA Today Article

At the top of today's edition (October 4th) of the "Life" section of "USA
Today",  it shows a picture of a new Range Rover with the caption:

       LEARNING TO ROVE....As the Land Rover leaps in popularity, schools
       are springing up to teach what these automotive billy goats can do.  

So be sure and catch the article tomorrow, Thursday, October 5th in "USA
Today".  Should be interesting.

Jan Fisk
Springfield, Missouri

------------------------------

From: Jeff Gauvin <jeffg@minerva.ncrmicro.ncr.com>
Subject: RE: Problem Cardboard
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 95 9:36:13 MDT

From: maddeng@Apple.com (gary madden)

  ..chopsticks?  Thank you grasshopper, for words of widsom.  Mine keeps
  falling down, also.  Single cheapest-looking, corner-cutting component
  on the vehicle.  Personally I would like to replace cardbroad with
  something a bit more substantial, a bit more Land Rover-ish.
  Unfortunately the dealer says the '95 redesign (molded plastic) can't
  be retrofitted.

Mine did the same thing until I got creative with velcro!  Get a couple
feet of velcro tape (black preferably) and put one strip on the OUTSIDE
of the metal top retainer and one strip on the inside top edge of the
cardboard.  I found that the adhesive that comes on the velcro isn't
strong enough and had to use rubber cement.  Hasn't fallen since and is
even easier to get into now.  (I assume you're talking about the
passenger side kick panel - I've never had a problem with the drivers
side.)  Oh, almost forgot - you need to remove the foam from the top
edge of the panel.

From: "Guzelis.Pete" <guzelis.pete@ssdgwy.mdc.com>

  Defender 90 sighting!  Just got back to sunny California after a 2
  week (3200 mile) vacation in the 4 corners area of the Southwest.
  While in Moab Utah, spotted a D90 setup to do some serious
  off-roading.  Never got a chance to see/talk to the owner.  Anyone
  know who ownes this one?

I just got back from Moab myself (9/26 - 10/1) and while you may have
seen my black '94 D90 (Hardtop, couple of bikes on the back), I think
the one you're talking about was owned by Bill Burke (you know, the
Camel Trophy driver) of Offroad America (Denver).  He was running a
3-day offroading class there.  His is green with an ARB winch bumper and
a bunch of stickers.  It is the vehicle featured in a recent 4x4
magazine article about fitting Old Man Emu shocks/springs to D90s.  In
his group was a yellow D90 with Arizona plates, a red D90 with an ARB
bumper, a white D90, a Disco, a Rangie, and a white Hummer.  Also saw a
D110 running around town.  Saw more Rangie's than I could count while
driving through Aspen.

On the day I ran into the group, they were planning to drive Pritchart
Canyon.

FWIW - My D90's odo turned over 10K miles on the trip, and "she" got
over 18 MPG on the highway portions of the 1K mile adventure.

--
Jeffrey J. Gauvin		email: jeff.gauvin@symbios.com
Symbios Logic Inc.		Voice: 719-573-3563
1635 Aeroplaza Dr.		FAX: 719-573-3824
Colorado Springs, CO 80916

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Temperature Gauges
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 95 11:55:00 DST

Trefor Delve wrote:
The gauge(s) you describe sound similar to those used on the MG Miget.  If
that is the case, the temperature information is relayed by a thin pipe
carrying mercury (thermometer principle).

Actually , Trefor, the temperature gauge is a pressure gauge. It measures 
temperature by measuring the vapour pressure of the fluid in the sensing 
bulb (usually alcohol) . Often on older gauges they stop functioning because 
hte capillary has developed a leak and the fluid has all evaporated. A good 
instument shop can often find and fix the leak and refill the bulb.

Mechanical gauges beat electical everytime. They don't need power to work 
and if correctly calibrated in the beginning they stay that way for an 
eternity.

Trevor Easton
Miss Golightly just back from the Mid Atlantic. Just love those winding back 
roads in Virginia. Felt almost like the homeland. Now if only you drove on 
the right (ie left) side of the road.

------------------------------

From: Easton Trevor <TEASTON@DQC2.DOFASCO.CA>
Subject: Temp Gauge
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 95 12:04:00 DST

David
See my post to digest re temp gauges. Does your gauge have what looks like a 
small capillary tube coming from the back of the temperature portion? 
probably the tube and bulb were severed by an ill advised PO, but all is not 
lost. See if you can find an industrial instrument shop in the 
neighbourhood. They may be able to graft a new tube and bulb to your gauge. 
The original fluid is not allowed any more so what they fill it with will 
have different characteristics, just ask them to provide a calibration 
chart. So long as you know what the actual temperature is it doesn't really 
matter what the gauge reads, does it. After all most modern (electrocrap) 
gauges just have green yellow and red bands with no numbers.
Regards
Trevor

------------------------------

From: Trefor Delve <delve1t@nectech.co.uk>
Subject: Temperature Gauges
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 95 17:05:00 GMT

Trevor,

I stand corrected.  Thankyou.

Trefor.
tdelve@nectech.co.uk

------------------------------

From: L.Batten@lse.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 95 15:43:03 GMT
Subject: Series Geraboxes

     Dear All,
     
     I'm looking to replace my gearbox on my Series IIA with one from a 
     Series III - I really need the benefit of a fully synched box.
     
     Is this a straight forward task - does anyone know of any pitfalls I 
     can avoid ?
     
     Thanks in advance.
     
     Leigh
     
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------
     
     Leigh Batten
     London School of Economics              E-mail - L.BATTEN@LSE.AC.UK
     Room A240                               Tel:   - 0171-955-6714
     Houghton Street
     London                                  Mobile - 0378-134-660
     WC2A 2AE                                
                             1966 IIa SWB - "Janie"
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: L.Batten@lse.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 95 15:30:35 GMT
Subject: Series Geraboxes

     Dear All,
     
     I'm looking to replace my gearbox on my Series IIA with one from a 
     Series III - I really need the benefit of a fully synched box.
     
     Is this a straight forward task - does anyone know of any pitfalls I 
     can avoid ?
     
     Thanks in advance.
     
     Leigh
     
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------
     
     Leigh Batten
     London School of Economics              E-mail - L.BATTEN@LSE.AC.UK
     Room A240                               Tel:   - 0171-955-6714
     Houghton Street
     London                                  Mobile - 0378-134-660
     WC2A 2AE                                
                             1966 IIa SWB - "Janie"
     ----------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 12:43:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Haslam <haslam@alcor.concordia.ca>
Subject: RR: ECU gets RPMs from Coil Negative

Subject: Re: Intermittent problem with '87 RR solved.

>>DEBROWN@srp.gov writes:
>> 	All the dealer said was that "The alternator was sending the wrong signals
>> 	to the ECU." I don't know exactly what, whether low voltage of amperage, or
>> 	what, but it started every time, and gave no indication of an alternator

>Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the engine RPM information come from the alternator?

The Workshop Manual says that, for 87-91 RR, the RPM input is from the
negative of the coil.  So a question: did you check the battery voltage with
a good voltmeter?  A healthy alternator should give 13.2 volts, or a bit
more.

...chris
88 RR
80 SD1

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 12:45:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: IIA to III transmission swap

Leigh,
     
>      I'm looking to replace my gearbox on my Series IIA with one from a 
>      Series III - I really need the benefit of a fully synched box.
>      Is this a straight forward task - does anyone know of any pitfalls I 
>      can avoid ?

    It is not completely straightforward, since the III had the clutch
    slave cylinder on the opposite side of the bellhousing and used a
    completely different release mechanism and input shaft.

    One way is to simply deal with the differences.  Another way is to
    take a SIII box and strip all the front stuff off of it, putting
    your IIA stuff back in place, leaving you with an "all synchro IIA
    transmission."

    That is what I'm currently running.  I believe the complete list of
    "stuff" is:

    -- front gear on layshaft that mates with gear on input shaft
    -- input shaft
    -- entire front end of transmission which is more or less:
    	-- bellhousing
    	-- input shaft bearing
    	-- every bit and piece of release mechanism

    I've got a couple of thousand miles on this setup and it's working
    fine.  After 5 years of double-clutched downshifts into second, I'm
    having trouble remembering I don't need to do that.  And the throws
    for 1st and 2nd are disconcertingly SHORT compared to what I'm used
    to.  But it's a really nice change, for the non-purist.

    Duncan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 95 11:52:09 EDT
From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Temp Gauge

>David
>See my post to digest re temp gauges. Does your gauge have what looks like a 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)]
>lost. See if you can find an industrial instrument shop in the 
>neighbourhood. They may be able to graft a new tube and bulb to your gauge. 

Snip
Nissonger Corp in New York can rebuild these guages. I don't have
their number with me, but someone else on the list knows it. Maybe
they can post it.

Tom Rowe
UW Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI 53706	| Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
wk 608-265-6194	| in places even more inaccessible
hm 608-243-8660

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 1995 12:52:19 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: temp/oil guages

All,
    Nisongers in NY does a nice job of rebuilding those combo oil/temp
    gauges.  (914-381-1952, -1953 fax)  Mine had the "missing secret
    stuff" problem where everything was there but it just didn't work. 
    Not sure what they'd do if you were missing the whole tube, bulb,
    and big nut.

    It cost $100 to repair, and came back looking like a BRAND NEW
    instrument.  The bezel was painted, it had new gaskets in it, the
    tube was brand new, they even included a new little gasket for where
    the oil pressure pipe fits on.

    The oil pressure pipe hooks on to an adapter on the end of the oil
    filter adapter (same place the wire that goes to the green lights
    hooks in.)  Yes, it is actually feeding engine oil up to your dash
    to measure the pressure.  Make sure you get that connection on and
    sealed right!!  The water sensing bulb hooks in right below the
    thermostat in the head casting.  Which is to say that for a D90
    owner, this gauge would make a nice conversation piece but little
    else I'm afraid...

    Duncan, now able to see what temp his engine is for the first time
    since he bought it!

------------------------------

From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus <Alan_Richer/CAM/Lotus.LOTUS@crd.lotus.com>
Date:  4 Oct 95 12:49:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Lack of Power on Startup

Re: Lack of power:

Are you sure that your timing and so forth are correct? I can easily see this 
being a symptom of excessively lean mixture, or perhaps a clogging fuel filter.

Also, check the idle jet, if it's partially clogged, you could have the lean 
mix which would clear as soon as you got running on the road.

     Alan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Oct 95 14:05:09 -0500
From: "John B. Friedman" <johannes@scribes.english.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Anti-Gush Discovery oil change #2

I experimented today with a technique for avoiding the gush of oil  
when first pulling the plug on Disco oil pan. The following worked  
well.

Buy a 24 quart waste basket at Walmart. The model I got was made by  
Sterilite in MA, but a Rubbermaid product or the same dimensions  
would be fine. Scribe or draw a line on the front and sides 9 inches  
up from the bottom of the can.( this for the rectangular cross  
section model I got) Then with a carpenter's saw and snips, saw  
across the face of the basket and down the sides. Then cut away with  
snips the material so that you have a 9 inch high can with a full  
height flap up the back. With the snips or a round file make nice  
radii where the flap joins the sides, so when you flex the flap it  
won't break off after repeated use.
	 This can will now fit under the car. Place the flap so it  
comes up behind the long I- beam Panhard bar which locates the front  
axle in the frame.You want the flap to protect the tire and brake  
from the gushing oil. The center of the can should be more or less  
under the drain. Then when you take the plug out, the oil will gush,  
hit the flap and fall into the can and not get all over.You may have  
to retrieve your plug out of the oil.
	I pulled the thing out after most of the oil had drained and  
used a flat pan for the rest and the oil filter too. But maybe the  
flap could be used to protect tie rods and differential housing when  
you unscrew filter as well.
	I presume this will also work on Defender but as you may have  
more clearance there, you can cut the sides a little lower or higher.

			John Friedman  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 15:52:58 -0500 (CDT)
From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Subject: Re: RoverWeb last update?

On Wed, 4 Oct 1995, ppnickb wrote:
> Subject: RoverWeb last update?
> My name is Nick Baggarly and I'm with the Land Rover Owners Assoc.
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)]
> Nick C. Baggarly
> '66SIIA 88 (Seymour)  '64 Dormobile
> Los Gatos, Cale
nick, regarding your message and the roverweb page:
i am a member of lroa -- keep up the good work.
at one time in my life i had time and i took on the roverweb
with good intentions.  work has consumed me and I have not
had the time to keep it current.  i feel guilty, but it does
not appear that things will change in the future for me.

i could pass it along to someone else (thats how i acquired it --
greg hiner - hiner@mail.utexas.edu did almost all the work).
or i could solicite help in keeping it current  (i am the
sysadmin on a medium sized unix system and i could let some
users sign in to do some web updating...)

anyway, feel free to point to it and if you have ideas as to
how to help me get/keep current, send em along.

i always look forward to the aluminum workhorse -- read it from
cover to cover on the first night.

ray harder  -- 61 SIIa 88 named lulu.

------------------------------

From: Leland J Roys <roys@hpkel13.cup.hp.com>
Subject: Def-90 Oil change
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 95 13:57:45 PDT

Oil Changes:

Well, with all this talk about a spill free oil changes on the Disco/Def-90,
I have finally found the perfect solution. Because I found it impossible
to stop the gallons of oil flowing on my garage floor, I now just put my lips
over the oil spigot on my Def-90, I then drink all the old oil from my 
beloved Def-90 (and enjoy it as well), this leaves no spill and I also do
not need dinner that night.

Leland Roys
roys@cup.hp.com
Cupertino,Ca
1994 Def-90 (Red)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 14:09:51 -0700
From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell)
Subject: Re: Series Geraboxes

 
>      Dear All,
>      I'm looking to replace my gearbox on my Series IIA with one from a 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 11 lines)]
>      Thanks in advance.
>      Leigh
   

 Why not convert your IIa box to syncro, the you have the best of both?

R, bg

------------------------------

Date: 04 Oct 95 19:01:45 EDT
From: Mark Talbot <71035.3215@compuserve.com>
Subject: RR gearbox probs

All, 

Anyone comment on this. I just took the RR for a quick off-roading. I tried to
get the thing into low range and nothing happened when I pushed the lever
forward. It appears that it is stuck in HIGH range, luckily !!! Anyone had a
similar prob, not getting into low range.  I suspect something has snapped or
broken, stopping the lever to engage low range, the diff lock still works.

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 07:26:37 +0800 (WST)
From: TONY YATES  <tonyy@waalpha.wa.BoM.GOV.AU>
Subject: Re: RR gearbox probs

On 4 Oct 1995, Mark Talbot wrote:
> get the thing into low range and nothing happened when I pushed the lever
> forward. It appears that it is stuck in HIGH range, luckily !!! Anyone had a

Does the lever move freely? If so I would suspect a broken linkage, if it
was an internal problem the lever would be stuck/hard to move??

Just a suggestion.

==========================================================
                                      ()  (  )      ()
Tony Yates                           (  ) (   )    (  )
Bureau of Meteorology               (    )(    ) (      )
Port Hedland                       (       )   )(        )
Western Australia                 (          ) ) --------
                                   ------------
ph:  (091) 401 350                 \\\**\\**\
fax: (091) 401 100                   \***\*\
                                       \\*\
email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au                \\

==========================================================

------------------------------

Subject: My new Range Rover by Robin 
From: rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Robin Craig)
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 95 20:55:17 -0500

Well, i just got my new Range Rover home. Gorgeous C registration (for 
the live at home Brits unlike us in Canada) four door jobbie with  right 
hand drive and 3 spoke wheels.

Came from Japan via Germany, and soemwhat reduced in size at 1/24. I 
think that this one will end up i9n a Gulf war colour scheme with the 
rear windows painted out and the black chevron on either side as per LRO 
articles b my mucker Bob Morrison.

I say by way of German y as Revell in Germany are repackaging this 
Ayoshima kit and sticking a couple of big bucks on the price tag.

Thankfully I won a big M88A1 kit at a convention and swapped it with the 
local retailer for the Rangie.. Well considering I only paid a fiver for 
my raffle ticket and got a armoured recovery vehicle worth over 60 cdn 
and swapped it for the 64 dollar (plus taxes ) revell kit I thought I was 
doing real well.

I have an older range rover on the go which will when completed be either 
an RAF police vehcile or a civy police unit. Havenet decided yet.

Initial inspection and inhalation reveal that the kit is really well 
moulded  and the tyres provided are Bridgestone mud duellers. Very little 
flash on the kit parts and a well executed detail level. There are decals 
for the walnut on the dash and all.

The clear parts are really sharp too.

The decals are very good for register and colour, they have declas for 
the hubs aswell! choice of uk C reg licence plates or show roon "Land 
  Rover " oval and range rover words.

Buy this sucker now and put it away for a real long winter.

Why not ask the Mrs for this under the tree?

Revell Germany's kit number is 07373 and should be available under the 
ayoshima (spelling suspect there ) name aswell for a few bucks less.

TTFN

Robin

--
Robin Craig, rc@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Ottawa, Ont. |  Ottawa Valley Land Rovers

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 18:23:14 +1200
From: jawa@i-max.co.nz (leonard john hobart)
Subject: inqury

>To: LRO-Owner@uk.stratus.com
>From: jawa@i-max.co.nz (leonard john hobart)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>2 queries
>1. which is the correct address to send email re Land Rovers? , I will
cross post this to what appears to me may be  possable A.D.s  . could seem
kind soul please put me right. In advance I thank you.
>2. as an ex fireman I am rather nervous about sitting on my LWB Rover's
(Loftys) fuel tank, does anybody else  feel this way? would there be a
>2 queries
problem with moving this item towards the rear of the vehicle ( the further
the better)
>regards    John
(Loftys) fuel tank, does anybody else  feel this way? would there be a
>2 queries

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 18:47:09 +1200
From: jawa@i-max.co.nz (leonard john hobart)
Subject: attempt four

>To: LRO-Owner@uk.stratus.com
>From: jawa@i-max.co.nz (leonard john hobart)
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)]
>2 queries
>1. which is the correct address to send email re Land Rovers? , I will
cross post this to what appears to me may be  possable A.D.s  . could seem
kind soul please put me right. In advance I thank you.
>2. as an ex fireman I am rather nervous about sitting on my LWB Rover's
(Loftys) fuel tank, does anybody else  feel this way? would there be a
>Subject: 
problem with moving this item towards the rear of the vehicle ( the further
the better)
>regards    John
(Loftys) fuel tank, does anybody else  feel this way? would there be a
>Subject: 

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