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Date: Sun, 01 Oct 1995 00:10:22 -0700
From: "John Y. Liu" <johnliu@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Radio placement

Jan Ben writes:

I built an aluminium shelf over the windshield.  It's a good place for a
radio (easily reached and seen, and likely to stay dry no matter what you
ford), speakers can be built into it also, and serves as a handy place for
other stuff too.  Direct access to the roof for an antenna cable, too.  Be
sure to use a softer aluminium -- not wood or steel -- and roll the edges so
as to minimize injury in case you bash into it in a crash (unless you're
pretty tall, contact seems unlikely, though).  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 20:26:06 +1000
From: Lloyd Allison <lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au>
Subject: Mark's on-line

FYI

Mark's 4WD Adaptors is on-line at: http://www.ozemail.com.au/~marks4wd/

Sarry Kouskoumbekakis handles the email and html.  He showed me round on
Saturday and I'll write it up in a week or two (no, ozemail is someone else!).
Mark's have really specialised in conversions (dropped accessories) and have
an amazing selection for a large set of engines and vehicles.
Mark is a little sceptical about the Internet, but believes that he
has to be in it.

Lloyd

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Oct 1995 08:03:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Duncan Brown <DB@CHO004.CHO.GE.COM>
Subject: ROAV Mid-Atlantic Rally was great!

All,
    I only attended the rally on Saturday (it's still going on today)
    but had a great time.  Well over 100 Rovers, lots of very nice folks
    driving them.  Great food, great events, what more could anyone ask
    for?

    My 3-year-old was being just as cute as could be (even when he got
    stung by a bee and screamed so loud they could hear him in North
    Carlina...)  I don't think they gave an award for "youngest
    co-pilot" but he would have won for sure.

    A bunch of people went off on some extracurricular trail-riding on
    the nearby fire trails, and what a great time/disaster that was!

    I believe we had one of everything somewhere in that group: SI, SII,
    SIIA, SIII, Defender, Discovery, Range Rover...and even an FC101. 
    Absolutely astonishing performances put in by all on some pretty
    steep/slanted/boggy terrain.  Riding with me was a new SIIA owner
    who hasn't gotten his vehicle on the road yet.  After yesterday, he
    is all the more eager to get it running.

    My Turner engine isn't looking so new any more....mud from top to
    bottom.  I had adjusted the valves earlier in the day and along one
    section of the trail it started spewing oil from the valve cover.  I
    guess I had gotten the gasket a bit offset, and when I hit a
    sideways bump it scooted out from under the cover and started
    letting oil drip down onto the manifold.  What fun.  After several
    attempts (on steep inclines, with muddy boots, etc.) I finally got
    it in there right again and stopped emitting blue clouds into the
    forest.  It performed beautifully though, I continue to be just
    ecstatic with that purchase.

    One one steep incline, everyone was passing the slope at the bottom,
    and then backing into position for a straight shot up.  Coming down
    we had simply made the turn, I couldn't see why I couldn't just hang
    a right and head up the slope.  I found out why.  I got one wheel in
    the air, axles jumping back and forth, etc.  I threw in the clutch
    to give up and back down for a straight shot...and the lack of
    traction on the hill, combined with mud-filled and nearly useless
    brake drums, left me skittering straight back into a tree at about
    3MPH.  OUCH.  Fortunately, I hit right on the left rear corner at
    such an angle to the tree that it broke the TOP taillight lens (not
    the one below it, and not even the bulb in that light!), put a
    little wrinkle in the aluminum below the top corner capping...and
    DESTROYED the horizontal canvas top side support on that side. 
    Bowed it into a U shape.  Hey, could have been a lot worse!

    Beyond that, there was an exceptionally steep hill (felt like 75
    degrees coming down!) that only about half the vehicles were making
    it up under their own power.  The rest had to be SLOWLY winched up. 
    Eventually a couple of folks came up behind us again- they had found
    the other way out by coming in the other way!  So we turned around
    to follow them out.  And all promptly got utterly lost in the middle
    of a vast featureless fire break.  We eventually found an actual
    road and made our way back to Penlan Farm...about 2 hours after
    dinner was to have been served.  Fortunately it was still there and
    everyone had some of that great barbecue.

    No question in my mind I'll be heading down there again next year. 
    Hope to see some of you there!

    Duncan, looking up the part number for a new hoop strut...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Oct 95 09:18:03 EDT
From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu>
Subject: Re: Bulkhead Repairs (zinc fumes)

>The repair sections from Rovers North are galvanized which is wonderful for
>corrosion protection. However, the zinc must be ground off of the surfaces to
>be welded. Wear a good dust mask since inhaling zinc is not healthy.
Snip

As a former welder I have a lot of experience welding zinc coated metals.
Zinc fumes are very toxic. Weld in a *well* ventilated area. Idealy keep yourself upwind of the fumes. And drink lots of milk. I say that because it helps to prevent zinc poisoning, not because of where I work.

Tom Rowe
UW Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI 53706	| Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
wk 608-265-6194	| in places even more inaccessible
hm 608-243-8660

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Oct 95 12:28:55 EDT
From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben)
Subject: misc. items RE new 109HT

Hi all:
I need advice on goodies available for the LWB hardtop.

1. rollbar that fits just inside the hardtop, so it can be used with
the softtop ("hood", is it?)

2. aftermarket intake/exhaust improvement for carbed 3.5 with 2 SUs.
  (what's worth it, and what's a waste of money?). I can probably
get a Edelbr. mainfold w. 390 Holley for $400 both.  Is there a nice pair
of carbs that fits instead of SU's, like Webers 40DCOEs?

3. (a silly one) the shift lever is straight, and it's a stretch for me to
reach 1-2 shift.  Should I just bend it, or is there an elegant soln?
(more on this: I took a closer look, and there is no way to take
the lever apart, though Haynes refers to a 2-piece assy.)
Another option to make it a 2-piece.

4. I have a cheap small straight galv. front bumper w. bullbar mounted.
  Is there a good simple add-on setup, or will I have to change the bumper?

5. (never mind - I got this one) 

6. I have a wish list of things to get from LRsupermarket or Craddocks.
Is anyone still putting together an order here in US?  Any suggestions or
warnings re. ordering from UK?

7. I am interested in compiling spares for future projects.  Anyone cleaning
out their garage (in NE US) of Rangie 4-sp, engines ?

PS. what is the induction history of the v8? when did they go to what FI
system? Is the intake the same from 3.5->3.9->4.2 ?

Thanks and bye for now.
Jan

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 09:58:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Slade <slade@teleport.com>
Subject: NADA 6 ??'s/Roverworks update

Hello Everyone,

Just a quick update about Roverworks of New York, and a question about 
the NADA 6 cyl engine.

The rumors are true, and several people (including myself), have banded 
together and filed official complaints with the New York State Attorney 
General's office.  Financial and business records have been subpoenaed and 
action is moving forward.

I would strongly urge anyone with complaints about Roverworks to please 
contact me, and hopefully with strength in numbers something positive can be 
done. 

I would also strongly urge anyone with knowledge of anyone considering 
Roverworks for a vehicle or restoration of their vehicle to either abandon 
those thoughts or contact me first.  

Now, on to other matters,

I have been considering a 109 that has a NADA 6 cyl. engine in it.  It's 
been gone through and rebuilt, and has about 4800 miles on it.

Questions are:

How many miles can I count on before either a rebuild or a replacement?  
Obviously that is dependant on me and how I service the car, but are 
there longevity problems generally associated with that engine?

Also, I've heard parts are a pain to get for that motor, and am wondering 
about a swap in the future when major engine repairs are necessitated.

Suggestions for engines to consider for a swap when/if it is neccesary 
would be appreciated.

Thanks for letting me ramble,

Michael

slade@teleport.COM  Public Access User -- Not affiliated with Teleport
Public Access UNIX and Internet at (503) 220-1016 (2400-28800, N81)

------------------------------

Date: 01 Oct 95 14:45:43 EDT
From: Mark Talbot <71035.3215@compuserve.com>
Subject: Off-roading in NH

All, 

Sorry for the short notice, we are planning "A day in woods" this coming weekend
saturday. 

Light to medium off roading, some light wading in puddles and the odd stream,
come see the the changing colours of fall in southern New Hampshire off the
beaten track. 

Those interested e-mail me back for info, we have 4 vehicles so far and those
with Disco's or RR can come with the comfort that we will not tackling panel
denting rocks ! 

All welcome. 

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Oct 95 13:56:10 EDT
From: (Tom Rowe) <trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu>
Subject: NADA 6 cyl

On Sun, 1 Oct 1995 09:58:07 -0700 (PDT) Michael
wrote:

>Hello Everyone,
Snip

>Now, on to other matters,
>I have been considering a 109 that has a NADA 6 cyl. engine in it.  It's 
	 [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)]
>been gone through and rebuilt, and has about 4800 miles on it.
>Questions are:

Snip
>Also, I've heard parts are a pain to get for that motor, and am wondering 
>about a swap in the future when major engine repairs are necessitated.
Parts can be a pain. Last I heard things like the
water pump are no longer avail, as well as the
brake booster. 

>Suggestions for engines to consider for a swap when/if it is neccesary 
>would be appreciated.

You have a liitle more room for a future engine
swap. Relative to that, the bulkhead is different
than on a 4cyl, as well as the floor panels in the
front.
The transmission bellhousing is different than a
4cyl.

Also, the front brakes on the 6cyl are larger
(wider shoes) than any other US spec series, and
it has different front wheel cylinders than the
4cyl 109 (steel as opposed to aluminum). 
I bought a Perkins diesel to put in my 6cyl, alot
nicer fit than in the 4cyl engine bay, but it will
probably go in my lightweight now than my petrol
engine has about had it.

If the price is good, I would get it with the
assumption that you'll be replacing the engine
down the road.

Tom Rowe
UW Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI 53706	| Four wheel drive allows you to
get stuck
wk 608-265-6194	| in places even more inaccessible
hm 608-243-8660

=========END FORWARDED MESSAGE=========

Tom Rowe
UW Center for Dairy Research
Madison, WI 53706	| Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
wk 608-265-6194	| in places even more inaccessible
hm 608-243-8660

------------------------------

Subject: re: Unstable Idle in D90
From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore)
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 95 15:37:56 -0400

Folks;

Thanks to all who responded.  John Brabyn was to firdt to respond with the 
solution, but by then the dealer had gotten the problem solved and I wound up 
apying $36 (to cover the diagnosis set-up cost), but the actual repair work 
was under warranty.

The receipt stated that the "base idle" was adjusted, but as I questioned the 
mechanic what that actually was, it turns out that the idle air bypass valve 
was stuck, and subsequently couldn't respond quickly enough to prevent stall.

Now that I know what it was, I'll make a point of cleaning it every time I 
replace the plugs per the shop manual's guidance, although I'll have to work 
on the compressed air source - those cheap electric compressors are looking 
better!

Again, thanks all.

Bill Skidmore

------------------------------

Subject: LR shirt
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 95 16:44:39 -0500
From: Gary Mitchelson <garym@cais.cais.com>

-- [ From: Gary Mitchelson * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

Does anyone know of another source for the green LR logo shirts other than
the dealers in the US?
--
Gary Mitchelson                     
garym@racalrecord.com                                
N3JPU

------------------------------

Date: 01 Oct 95 19:51:13 EDT
From: "William L. Leacock" <75473.3572@compuserve.com>
Subject: Road speed and steering

WD Cockey gives all the info reqd for road speed calcs. for James Curtis
205 tyres are the same rolling dia as 6.00 /6.50 .ie 29 in which is approx 710
rev/ mile.
 15 mph per 1000 revs in top gear with .78 o/d ratio = 19.18 mph per 1000 revs
which at 85 mph = 4400 rpm. 
 A  std 2 1/4 will not pull this gear ratio, it just does not have the power to
propel the aorodynamic brick, aka Land Rover at this speed, except down in 1 in
4 gradient,         I suggest that you find your local police measured mile and
time yourself at some legal road speeds to check the speedo accuracy.

Peter doncaster writes re steering box slack, 
  There is 'nt much you can do to rebuild a steering box other than fit new
balls which usually does not do much good since the screw track is usally more
worn than the balls.
It is easy to see how much free play there is in the  box, simply watch the
output arm as you move the steering wheel to and fro.  There is a backlash
adjustment on the side of the box, which can be reached from under the wing (
fender )  it is normally covered by a steel box shaped cover, slacken the
locknut and tighten the screw until the backlash is reduced, check the free
play at both steering lcks to ensure that it is not too tight at the extremes
which are usually  less worn than the centre part.

 Trevor  Easton   when you read this please send me your E mail address, I have
had some mail bounced back.

 Regards   Bil  Leacock.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Oct 1995 17:34:57 +0100
From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine)
Subject: Re: misc. items RE new 109HT

 Jan Ben <jib@big.att.com> writes:

>I need advice on goodies available for the LWB hardtop.
 1. rollbar that fits just inside the hardtop, so it can be used with
 the softtop ("hood", is it?)

 The softtop "hood" in the UK is referred to as a "tilt".  You can get
 a full tilt for the 109, replacing the entire top (don't know what
 happens at the rear doors for a 4-door); or a 3/4 tilt, as for a 109
 pickup, etc.

 Michael Carradine, Architect                          Ph/Fax 510-988-0900
 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA    <cs@crl.com>
 _________________________________________________________________________
 Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at:  http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html

------------------------------

From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 22:35:29 -0400
Subject: Anyone done this?

Has anyone retrofitted a rear cargo area rubber mat from a D90.....the one
with the logo and goes up and over the wheel wells......?     Does it take
much trimming?   Does it look 'boogered up' when trimmed to fit?     Seems
like it would be an excellent alternative to the thin floor mat or no mat at
all.    Any good sources except the franchise ($$$$) dealers?    Thanks all.
Rick Crider    kd4fxa
<rickcrider@aol.com>
Monroe  NC
66  Slla  109"         .........for sale........
73  Slll    88"
88  Range  Rover

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 1 Oct 1995 23:28:52 -0500
From: rwegner@fimage.synapse.net (Richard Wegner)
Subject: CHECK the Timing Chain!

Well the Rover is apart again! Over this past summer I had been
experiencing a noise from the front of the engine in my 73 Series III - 88
that can best be described as a loud rattle when the engine was idling. The
noise would come and then go away for a while. But over the last couple of
months it did not go away, and seemed to get louder. After seeking advice
from fellow OVLR members, I had finally convinced myself that it was the
timing chain again.

I originally had problems with the timing chain back in 1988. When I took
the timing cover off the chain had stretched to the point where the
tensioner was off the ratchet and the chain was starting to rub on the
inside of the case. It did not make a rattling noise then. The timing chain
and tensioner was replaced at that time with original Land Rover parts.

The Rover has done approximately 15,000 miles since then, and the engine
was rebuilt in 1993 due to a burnt exhaust valve. The timing chain looked
OK at that time.

This time when I took the cover off, little pieces of aluminum fell out of
the cover. Apparently the Tensioner Idler Wheel had decided to
self-destruct, and the timing chain was wearing away the aluminum shaft
where the gear used to be! Needless to say I was not a happy LR owner, and
proceeded to drop the oil sump. As I suspected many little bits of aluminum
were floating in the oil sludge in the bottom of the sump. But.......all
these little pieces do not come anywhere close to making up the idler
wheel. Sooo......a lot of the aluminum idler wheel has been ground up in to
very fine aluminum filings.

Now I am looking for advice from the collective wisdom of the Land Rover net.
Should I be worried about those little bits of aluminum floating around in
the engine? Should I drop the oil pump, clean and check it? Should I take
off a big end cap and check the bearing shells?  Is the oil filter system
on the Land Rover a Full Flow system (does all the oil go thru the filter
first), or is it a Bypass filter system (some oil goes past the filter)?

Now all the time I have been reading this Land Rover list I have not heard
other owners mention timing chain problems. Is this a common problem?
Should a timing chain have to be replaced within 15,000 miles? What would
cause the idler wheel to self-destruct?

Last question! Has anyone had experience with the Pad Tensioner which
replaces the idler wheel as shown in Rovers North catalog? If so how often
does the pad need replacing?

Sorry for the length of this post, but I just had to vent my frustrations
at having the Rover laid up for a week or two just when I need it most, and
feeling bad about not having taken it apart sooner.

Thanks for listening........Richard

------------------------------

Subject: re: Service Bulletins for Late Model Land Rovers
From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore)
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 95 16:36:19 -0400

Folks;

re my previous calling out the ALLDATA web page as a source for the service 
bulletins that are in effect for late-model rovers:

BEWARE

My dealer stated that all of the ones identified on the ALLDATA web page for 
the '94 D90 were never issued for that vehicle, and in fact, the bottom of the 
page indicates EAS, which stands for Electronic Air Suspension (like in late 
model Range Rovers).

This page is therefore SUSPECT.

I recommend that anyone wishing to identify which bulletins are valid for 
their vehicles, to use this page as an indicator that MUST be verified by a LR 
delaership or LRNA (I don't know if RN or AB or any of the other authorized 
parts shops receive these bulletins).  Alternatively, contact LRNA and try to 
get the info from them (good luck!).

Bill Skidmore

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 01 Oct 95 21:38:43 MST
From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV
Subject: Intermittent problem with '87 RR solved.

FROM:  David Brown                           Internet: debrown@srp.gov
       Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics
       PAB219 (602)236-3544 -  Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
SUBJECT: Intermittent problem with '87 RR solved.
I'll make this short, since I'm at home on a *slow* dinosaur of a PC. The
problem that so many of you have been diligently helping me to find a
solution for is at last resolved. I took it to the dealer (I sure didn't
have the ability to play "plug and play") and they called me to tell me the
mechanical advance in the distributor is frozen, and would be around $350
(US) to rebuild. Later that day, they called to say they needed the RR
another day. Then, the next day, they said it wasn't the distributor, and
that they wouldn't charge me for that, but they had definitely located the
problem... The alternator!! This (rebuilt) was amazingly, the same price.

Thanks for all your input!!! I really appreciate all your help in resolving
this problem. I am now confident (at least for the moment) that with all the
poking and prodding that's been done to the beast, that *nothing* should go
wrong for a while now!!!!

Anyone up for a 4WD run???

YEEEEE---HAAAAA!!!

Dave (In Rover Bliss once again) Brown.
 #=====#         #========#          -------,___           _______
 |___|__\___     |___|__|__\___      |--' |  |  \_|_      / /__|__\___
 | _ |   |_ |}   | _ |  |   |_ |}    |  _ |--+--|_  |     \_/-\___/-\_|}
 "(_)""""(_)"    "(_)"""""""(_)"    ||_/_\___|__/_\_|}      ( )    ( )
                                       (_)      (_)
 1971 "88" IIa   1970 "109" IIa     1994 Discovery (Sold) '87 Range Rover
 LIC: LION B8    Historic plates     (Too hard to "draw")  $8500 bargain
                                                           Now have $9K in it.
                                                           And going... and ...

#=======#                Never doubt that a small group of individuals
|__|__|__\___            can change the world... indeed, it's the only
| _|  |   |_ |}          thing that ever has.
"(_)""""""(_)"                                          -Margaret Mead

------------------------------

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